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June 11th, 2004
Friday was our race into Katherine. We needed to pick up our permit to
enter Arnhem Land before the close of the day and it is a long weekend. We arrived with plenty of time at 1:00 pm but nothing is that simple. The application form had been lost somewhere so after much looking about they decided to write up a permission form on the spot. It usually takes 10 working days. The fact the we had our friends in Nhulumbuy ringing ever
day for the past 5 days about it may have helped. Anyway, were on the Arnhem Land Road and all is well.
All the way through the trip we have had some great "connections" with
people. Not one hour ago we stopped to top up the fuel at a remote fuel stop and chatted with the owners. She was from the local cattle property that ran the shop and fuel stop, he, her fiancé from near Halls Creek in WA.
They are getting married in 2 weeks. As we chatted we found out that he went to St Joseph's College in Sydney. Small world. But the really cute one is Julie from Memphis, whom we met in Turtle Cove. She mentioned that she knew a designer friend of Nics from the US. Nic mentioned that his partner at the time Danilo was a friend of this designer and did she know Danilo. Julie laughed and said that Danilo had yelled at her for playing with one of the wigs that were being worked on. Now that's a small world.
A comment about road side etiquette. When driving long distances you notice that other drivers pass you and more often than not will salute you with a small wave or a raised finger. You of course return the salutation. But what happens when you salute and the other driver does not return the salutation? Or even worse, you don't have time to return the raised digit before the pass. Here's a quick guide to salutations whilst driving in the country.
In NSW, don't wave at anyone. People with think you're strange.
In Queensland, wave or digitally salute all oncoming traffic whilst on a dirt road. If you are on a single lane bitumen road, salute other happy campers when you pass them. You will generally have two wheels on the bitumen and two on the dirt in this instance. Do not signal anyone on two lane bitumen. This is not acceptable and makes you look like a silly city-slicker. It's also not advisable to digitally salute drivers of oncoming road trains as you will be too busy holding onto the wheel of the car and keeping it steady as a force 10 hurricane passes you on 16 wheels whilst you're travelling in the opposite direction at 120 kms per hour with 6 feet between you.
In NT, digitally salute whom ever you like, whenever you like! They're terribly friendly. We will continue to codify the digital salutation as we journey onwards.
June 10th, 2004
Thursday was the equivalent of Sydney to Brisbane in one day but much less interesting. Flat, scrubby and mile after mile of road kill. Jim thinks
he may have euthanasia-ed a wounded eagle that had been set upon by a pack of falcons and hawks, at a speed of 120 kms. We overnighted, again in a motel room at Daly Waters Inn.
June 9th, 2004
Wednesday we got an early start to the Lawn Hill N.P. We arrived around lunch and booked into the Adel's Grove Caravan Park. Again we opted for
an onsite safari tent which meant for an early get away in the morning. Lawn Hill is one of those wondrous jems of outback Australia. It's essentially a water filled gorge in the middle of nothing. We hired a canoe and paddled the length, amazing at the incredible flora on the sides. Pandanus palms fringed the red rocked gorge with deep green clear water laden with fish and bubbles which we assumed to be tortoises.
June 8th, 2004
It took us 8 weeks to drive from Sydney to Cairns. We have driven the equivalent number of kilometres in the past 4 days. This is technically known as a "Power Drive".
We're camped on the side of the Whitlock River (upto and over our headlights) on the start of our journey into Arnhem Land. The past 4 days have been a bit of a blur but there are some highlights.
We said our fond farewells to Turtle Cove on Tuesday morning. Buy to Julie from Memphis, and her girlfriend Lisa from Darwin. But to Tom and Tom
from Washington DC. Buy to Dave the Pom from Sydney. Buy to John from New
York. Etc etc etc. WE had a good time at the cove.
Day one of our journey to Arnhem Land took us to Normanton via a lunch break at XXX where we acousted by a local lady walking her dog who saw the number plates and raced in for a chat. Needless to say she was a nurse, married to a teacher!
We overnighted at Normanton in our second skanky motel of the trip but we had jus driven 700 kilometres and couldn't be bothered putting up the taj-ma-tent.
June 4,5,6 & 7, 2004
Turtle Cove. Ahhh surrounded by the ocean, sun, sand boys and girls having
fun. We’ve just had a lovely 4 day R & R from the tenting and driving. Met
lots of new people… boys and girls … and just relaxed. Got the car
serviced, filled up the tanks and tomorrow we head West to Arnhem Land.
June 3rd, 2004
Starts at 3am with two rosters out the back of ‘farm stay’ (aka
Musgrave Road House). Anyway, we had fun folk for breakfast, we all packed
up our respective lives and were off in three different directions. We
headed for Lakefield National Park, and inland water basin and sanctuary for
birds, fish and crocs. We see lots of birds, flowers, lizards, aboriginal
rock carvings and paintings (at Split Rock), but still the crocs remain
stealth. The roads are patchy, which is not great as we kept the speed up
to combat corrugations. Early into the Lake Land caravan park, where the
locals are friendly, the store a hoot with lots of varied and young people
working on banana plantation – messy work.
Jun 2nd, 2004
A long and dusty day drive to Musgrave Roadhouse, but not before two swims
(before 9:30 am – a record for us!) in our new favourite creek and Fruit Bat
falls, which we also visit. The eggs had gone off in the back of the car,
so into the roadhouse for dinner. Always good for the meat hungry, woeful
for the veg option…and this place was no exception. A weird crowd, the whole
place a little quirky and unfriendly (right down to the formalin soak
spiders and snakes on display just feet from one of the outdoor plastic
furniture dinning table. Fortunately our neighbours on both sides were
friendly young and cute couples, so that made for good conversation.
June 1st, 2004
Well, so much for up and at ‘em! We push off onto the road to Bamaga after
final farewells to Gary, Sue et al. @ Punsand Bay. What a wonderful place,
such as shame you can’t swim in the ocean. We heard of a large crocodile
seen in the water of the beach we camped at with a turtle in into mouth. As
yet to encounter one of those…. thankfully! But today we re-cross the
Jardine River on the ferry by about…yes, 12:30, skip a few creek crossings
in the northern section of the OTL (locals advise against that route….
Possibly to ensure the track is not ‘cut up’ when they sneak away and see
it!) Nonetheless, after 35 kms on the northern bypass, we hooked up with the
Old Telegraph Line (a snug track, but fun and OK due to the good weather)
and wound up at Twins Falls and Elliot Falls. Magic places, but more magic
for us was the canal creek crossing, which was over a sandy piece of
country, with crystal waters fresh to boot. We splashed and played in the
gentle current. The plant life is amazing: picture plants, ferns, various
spectacular reeds, tiny little flowers, other red carnivorous specimens, and
flowers we had never seen before. We pitch the tent, light a fire and
return to the creek. A beautiful pink and blue sunset proceeds a vegi-pasta
on the camp-fire, tinnies, vodkas and juices…. whatever your fancy! How
lucky to have this spot all to ourselves, free of charge while a veritable
mob of fellow travellers are up the road some 4 or 5 kms away paying 8 bucks
a night, but have the luxury of a toilet. We might visit in the am!i
May 31st, 2004
Punsand Bay. The sun is slowly going down over the horizon. It’s 6:30 pm and we are
still at the tip of Australia, Punsand Bay. Today we spent exploring the
surrounding bays and a bit of the local history. We drove out to Sommerset,
which is where the legendry Frank Jardine and his wife Sana had their home.
There’s nothing left of the home but we had the joy of being entertained by
a group of turtles off the cape. Great fun but very difficult to photograph
as battery fails us.
The days are balmy and nights the same. A refreshing light shower is always
around and the sun is wonderful. This is a little piece of paradise and we
have been lucky enough to sample it. Tomorrow the compass points south!
May 30th, 2004
After feeding us an enormous hot breakfast, Sue signalled the 4x4 back track
to the Tip. She warned us that many who had triumphed over the Old
Telegraph Line came to grief on this track. We however were constant and
true and made it though the track to the tip. (nice philosophy on life
eh?). When you arrive at the tip there is still about a 20 minute walk to
get to the final destination. The walk is over rocks and through mangroves
and then you see the little sign saying that you were now standing at the
most northerly tip on mainland Australia.
We had made it! Our compass and been pointing north for the last 49 days
and we have now reach our most northerly point in the journey.
Lunch was a slow graze (with more crab!) back at the lodge. We have decided
to stay another 2 nights here but have moved into the camp ground. But
because Sue likes us we got the premium site in the place. Walk out the
tent onto the beach.
Cocktails by the bay flowed by dinner for two and a fire to wile away the
night.
.
May 29th, 2004
Punsand Bay.
Sometimes the guide books do get it right. We had read in our Lonely Planet
Guide to the Outback that there was a lodge/camping site that had a Saturday
evening Seafood Extravaganza Buffet. It was situated 11 kms from the very
tip of mainland Australia and so we decided to head for it!
We awoke with the challenge of Gunshot Creek. After a chat to the ABBA fans
next door (a group of cockies from Wagga Wagga, dear things) we headed off.
The truth of the matter is that the Gunshot Creek crossing was a triumph and
after the hour to get to and through gunshot creek Jim gave the driving
wheel over to Nic to continue on the track. But there was, in fact, worse
to come. It’s called Cockatoo Creek and we think is much more difficult than
Gunshot. Long story short! We made it across, with some deft driving from
Nic and then took the Northern Bypass to get to the Jardine River ferry
before it closed for the night.
We made the ferry and headed further north to Punsand Bay. The home of the
Saturday Night Seafood Extravaganza.
We arrive and decided that we needed to treat ourselves, after such a butch
adventure getting here and chose to stay in the onsite tent/cabin. Dinner,
breakfasts and lunch were included in the price and YES! It was the Seafood
Extravaganza. A great night meeting new and interesting people under the
watchful guidance of the proprietors Gary and Sue.
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May 28th, 2004
Dulhunty River.
We’re sitting on the edge of the Dulhunty River on the Telegraph Track.
The more we travel the more we appreciate the lovely little surprises that
await us. There’s a group of lads about 60 metres away playing ABBA and
drinking beer. They obviously put the C in ‘CAMP’ (but no body told them)
We’ve just had a beautiful camp fire dinner of chicken and apricots with
rice and bar-b-q corn. We started with a lovely vodka and cranberry juice.
(You’ve gotta love a fridge) Then moved onto a nice crisp Chardy.
But the real story is the journey along the Old Telegraph Line. We were
originally going to do the southern and northern bypasses as we were a
little unsure of the track. About 20 kms before the turn off we decided
that we would risk the original track. After all, this is what we had
trained for J. At the turn off to the Bypass we found a road house that was
not mentioned in any of the books. We spoke with the chap there and he gave
us the courage to take the more difficult route. And so we did.
The first crossing was the most challenging. We got stuck on the exit
point. The ruts were so deep that our dif was hitting the ground. Nic
said that he was probably too conservative in the attack. He rolled back in
the creek and this time gunned it and out we came.
The next crossing was challenging because of the dog’s-hind-leg-of-a-route
that you had to take. We got out and walked it and then drove though with
no problems.
We then arrived at the DelhuntyRiver. Decided to camp overnight and it’s
just perfect. We spent about 20 minutes playing in the river and falls
earlier in the evening and it was bliss.
Tomorrow we attempt the infamous gunshot creek on our journey north.
The moon is shining. The stars a bright. The river is flowing. The fire
is dying. Peace.
n
May 23rd, 2004
The next day we decide to stay put and see if the rain abates, which
thankfully it does. We poke around our campsite, snooze, took a short day
trip to a wonderful seaside coastal fishing village called Portland, which
was so delightful and unexpected. By now the sun is out and swim in a
beautiful rock pool at the ocean edge¡Kone of us perch on the rock on Crock
watch, while the other cools down. On our way back to the campsite we get
more fresh water and dry wood for tonight¡¦s fire, so all in all, we feel
the gods are smiling on us. This campsite is spectacular ¡V the forests are
accurately described in some of our reference books as being more like PNG
than Australia. The only thing missing from the picture were chimpanzees and
pythons¡K. or so we thought! Preparing for bed, we spot a bright green and
yellow python, minding its own business on the edge of the clearing (just
meters from us), waiting for the right size meal to come along. We try to
photograph it without provoking it, and quickly jump into our tent and make
sure all zippers are secure and done up! A fabulous night sleep follows, dry
as a bone. We wake to a leisurely breakfast by the forest fire, a swim in
the coconut tree lined beach, only meters from our rainforest campsite (most
unusual ¡V and special - for rainforest to meet beach in Australia). Once
again, croc phobia means it¡¦s in and out without too much fooling around.
Break camp than back the way we came in as the alternative planned route out
is also washed out, which means a little backtracking. We meet added
challenges coming out as the rain makes the access and egress into the many
creeks and rivers on the track a little hairy, particularly as we are by
ourselves. For the first time the Baby fails to make it up an embankment,
but with a second run up, a different approach and lots of wheel spinning
and mud flinging, we finally make it to the top. Phew! We come across, a
cassowary, blue-winged kingfishers, snakes¡Kthe list goes on. We love this
neck of the woods. We get back onto the Developmental Road and make it to
Weipa, a bauxite mining town on the west coast of the cape. The drive is on
better roads and takes us through cattle country. Brahman is the breed in
northern QLD, nothing else! The Weipa camping ground is great, open, on the
coast where we are treated to a spectacular sun set after setting up camp.
There are great amenities, hot showers, and best of all, a resort styles
swimming pool. Heaven! We go into town to the bowls club for dinner, a
cultural experience to say the least. Its State of Origin on the big screen
TVs, so the place is jumping - QLD vs NSW. NSW wins by a narrow margin. We
sleep like babies!
May 22nd, 2004
We continue on the Developmental road, which cuts its way up through the
Cape York Peninsula. While it is in fact the main road, it is gravel all the
way except for short sections either side of major rivers ¡V just enough to
tease. We¡¦re starting to meet fellow travellers along the way now. We swam
in the Archer River (local tell us it¡¦s OK) after setting up camp at the
road-house, where locals are friendly and funny. We meet some local shop
owners from Coen and two Swedish doctors and their family, all travelling
themselves. We swap stories and learn tips from where each of us had been
and where we were planing on going to. Early to bed as we plan a big drive
tomorrow through the Iron Range National Park.
The Iron Range National Park proves to be highlight. It¡¦s a full days
drives, which takes us through every possible type of countryside
imaginable. Savannas, heathlands, farming lands, mountains, swaps,
spectacular dense low land rainforests (the largest area of such forests in
Australia ¡V so we learn) teaming with wild life and visually breathtaking.
The road in is challenging, but we make it to Chilli Beach just in time to
set up camp. We meet a few other campers who tell of their own woes in
getting here (ie getting bogged and having to be winched out), which makes
us feel rather chuffed! But we don¡¦t gloat for long, as soon it starts to
rain and we get the try camping in tropical downpours for the first time. We
somehow make dinner between downpours and crawl into a relatively dry bed
for the night, not really knowing what to expect. Of course, tonight we
discover the car alarm is playing up, as we note in the dead of the night in
this dense rainforest setting the car lights flash on and off ¡V warning us
of something, were not quite sure what. Still, were up, trying to sort
things out and realise and midnight emergency response drill needs works!
May 21st, 2004
¡V Cape Trib to Cooktown
Early rise and on the road. The new pillows worked a treat, but it was hot
all night, a lizard ate through one of our chairs to get (to mere cake
crumbs!) and generally, we made a quick and dry (no dew on the tent)
getaway. Not before a brief swim (Jim only this morning), and a beach side
cold freshwater shower. Great way to start the day. The drive along the
Bloomfield river was slow but certainly not too difficult for ¡¥The Baby¡¦.
We lunched at the famous Lion¡¦s Gate Hotel (on our picnic rug, sandwiches
from out the back of the car ¡V ¡¥cos we over-spent earlier in the week so
decide to forgo the pub lunch experience), and then pushed onto Cooktown.
The news reports rain so we decided to get an onsite caravan for the night.
WOOSES! But this meant that we could avail ourselves of the laundry and do
the washing ¡V can't have these two queens looking ruff and scruffy on the
cape.
Cooktown is lovely and we spent time swimming on a secluded beach. We loved
the caravan (luxury compared to the TM!), and John and Mary were so good to
us, gave sound advice and they were proud of what they had done with the
park. The town itself had all we needed, including mobile phone coverage and
Internet access, Great! Windy as all %#@!, Sadly we push on from Cooktown,
feeling the need to keep some movement going. Sorry we didn¡¦t get to swim
in the dam above the caravan park, but we did go to the botanical gardens
(very Spartan, but has the makings for a great space). A really good
Nature¡¦s Powerhouse, with all the local nature bits and two funny ladies
that run the joint. Included were some magnificent original hand-painted
botanical studies on display, in (what seemed) a freezing room to protect
them for the heat and humidity outside. We did a 2 km walk through the
park, a hand made path winding through the rugged windswept coastal ridge
that leads down to a great (but again, also very windy) sand beach, with
crabs and worms on the shore and a shallow rough, churned up sea. In we went
none-the-less¡K. wondering about sea crocs¡K.. We didn¡¦t frolic!
The drive to Laura was challenging. It was or first encounter of what the
Aussie outback road after a record wet and before the grader got through is
all about. Potholes, wash outs, but most irritating is the corrugations -
bone chattering and seemingly relentless at times, surely not good for
highly sensitive electrical equipment. In fact, the car alarm has never
worked properly since! Mined you, otherwise the Baby has been faultless and
has performed brilliantly, but also, in all honesty, we are generally
driving defensively and trying to avoid stressing the machine, ourselves and
those around! The Bull dust covers everything, but one can see how much
worse this would be in the mid to late dry season. Once again the weather
treats us to the odd short shower, and some occasional cloud cover to keep
us from frying through the sunroof when the midday sun beats down. We saw
emus and lizards coming in to the Lakefield National Park, most of which we
bypassed as the road deep into the park (our planned route) was closed due
to the rivers still being up from the wet. The old homestead is great, but
repaired beyond the point of seeing too much or what was really original.
The site does give you sense of what it would like to have been living back
in the late 1800s. Yikes! Our new route takes us to The Hann River Road
house, where the night was balmy, the following mornings are perfect. We get
a great camping spot on the river at the end of the dirt track, totally
private. A 44-gallon drum for a rubbish bin, a camp fire and a fresh running
water down at the river - a campers delight! This place was alive! There
were birds, grasshoppers, frogs, moths, ants, roaches¡K you name it. A
shower and toilet up at the roadhouse made the whole thing that much more
civilised and we were again sorry to pack up and push on.
May 20th, 2004
¡V Turtle Cove to Cape Trib
A very sad decision to leave Turtle Cove but push on we must! Weather is a
brewing¡K. We stopped off in Port Douglas for supplies and then headed to
the Daintree River. The world heritage area is truly a marvel ¡V
rainforests and crystal clear rivers. Shelley sent us to the Mossman Gorge
and it certainly was ¡¥gorge¡¦. (Thanks for the recommendation). Lunched
and swim in a crystal clear deep water hole in the rapids at the Gorge with
fish (carp??, and catfish¡K.saw no crocs, thankfully!) Then we crossed the
Daintree river by the ferry and headed off to Cape Tribulation. We decided
that we had better do a bit more camping so set up the tent at Noah¡¦s
Beach. Early night with the additional pillows we bought because of stiff
necks noticed after camping earlier. Talk about the Princess and the Pea!
May 19th, 2004
¡V Turtle Cove at Leisure!
Gentle wakeup and breakfast on the beach. Hanging about the resort working
on the tan all day ¡V yum! Very quiet night in the spa tonight. Perhaps it
was because our new friend Bryce (from the Queen Mary) had decided to head
to bed early ¡V or was it the Teutonic tempestuousness of Johan from Berlin
that sent us all to bed early?
May 18th, 2004
On the road early and headed for Turtle Cove gay resort just north of
Cairns. Stopped off at Buchanan¡¦s Beach for a swim on the way. This is a
nude beach on the way north of Cairns that we read about in the Sydney Gay
press. Not very exciting on a Tuesday afternoon, but the beach was
beautiful. Checked into the resort and Nic was greeted like a long lost
friend by the Concierge. (Unfortunately, Nic has no memory of ever meeting
this cute young man ¡V hopeless). We had dinner at the hotel and met most
of the guests at happy hour. The resort is right on the coast and has it¡¦s
own beach, pool and giant spa. (used until 1:00 am by our good selves ¡V for
medicinal purposes only ¡K. relieving sore backs from camping fº).
May 17th, 2004
Power drive day. A lazy pack up of the camp and one final swim. The water a
various times of the day is crystal clear and shallow, warm and calm.
Heaven! The odd box jellyfish seen while snorkelling, so care to be taken.
We still swim every day. We then headed off on an 8 hour power drive towards
Cairns. Nothing to report other than a few fractious words to each other
towards the end of the trip but JEEZ! we¡¦re with each other 24/7 so we
thought that was normal! We¡¦re also suffering from a major sting fest from
a bunch of aggressive sand midgies. Finally put our heads down in a
roadside motel in Ingham. Come 7:30 pm, no one was setting up camp in the
dark!
May 16th, 2004
The 16th highlight was a trip over the exposed rocks at low tide to
expose an extensive outcrop of sea sponges, the texture, colours and shapes
that may us believe we were on another planet. These exposed plants
(hundreds, perhaps even thousands) looked like nothing we had ever seen. No
camera with us, as were we far out from the beach, no place for the digital
snap shooter!) Also visit a remarkable estuary, where dugongs, crocs and
sandflies live. Got attacked from by some plague of small but persistent
buggers. Jump back into the care, ego a little battered, with the worse of
that to become only evident a day later. Again we were mostly by ourselves
and chilled out to the beautiful balmy nights and roaring fire. The weather
is getting warmer the further we go north.
May 15th, 2004
Off to the National Parks again today. This time to the Cape Palmerston NP
just south of Mackay. The trip in was a bit hairy as we decided to take the
inland track rather than the beach track option. This was real 4Wdriving
with lots of very big holes etc. Nic did very well but we decided after 2
and a half kilometres to try our luck on the beach (after Baby - the car -
sustained her first scratch due to the encroaching track!) 6 kilometres of
beach to drive along ending in a beautiful bay were we pitched camp for 2
nights.
May 14th, 2004
A 400km drive north through varied countryside ¡V Brahman cattle county
mainly ¡V takes us to Yepoon where we check in to Rydes resort to wash
ourselves and our pile of dirty laundry. Extensive pools call us and after
some poolside action, we slip into movies, Room-service (in a box!) mode.
Again, an early night. Ugh!
May 13th, 2004
Another beautiful day greets us. Breakfast precedes a short drive down a 4x4 wheel only track takes us to Agnes Waters ¡V a great little coastal village
coming of age with a gorgeous beach. Still, just here to get supplies then
back to camp for a day on our own beach ¡V again, all to ourselves. Big
things swimming in the water with us ¡V not sure if they are dolphins or
sharks (dorsal fins a bit too wide at the base to be a dolphin - I
suspect!), so we stay close to the shore and hope for good luck. Hot day,
cold beers and fresh bread rolls. Butterflies everywhere. Black, blues, and
yellows primarily. Birds: sea kites soar over the beach, back at camp lots
of funny little yellow honeyeaters (thumb size) have lots of fun with the
car¡¦s side mirrors. A red-breasted one and drab smaller are possibly
another species or the partner of the yellow honeyeater. Yes, we did we
make it back to camp with all limbs and no need for blood transfusions or
help from vascular surgeons! Thanks Mother Nature for looking out for us. A
hearty vego pasta, and again, early to bed. Please!
May 12th, 2004
A good early start north after goodbyes to Mark and Sarah (poor kids! - on their way to work!) Lunch at Childers in a nice little park, but missed the
infamous Backpackers. Arriving in the Deepwater National Park (north of
Bundaberg) by 4 pm meant a quick set-up in a great camp site with only a few
others staying as well, all quite some distance away, so it feels like we
are totally alone ¡V again! No campfires permitted, so the night got cold
quickly once the sun went down. Dinner, wash up and bed early again (sorry
Pete!). Slept like babes.
May 11th, 2004
Ahhh – Brisbane at leisure (so the itinerary says). A lovely sleep in and then a slow breakfast over the Australian, (Jim loves his paper). We decided on a trip into the Botanical Gardens so headed off for a lovely walk into town. Home via the ferry and then final packing for the next stage. Peter Thomas (C,Fw) has complained that the diary is a tad boring but unfortunately this is a very public forum so you will all have to wait for the unexpurgated version.
May 10th, 2004
Time to leave the hotel and say goodbye to Mark and Steph who headed back to the farm in Armidale. We got the car serviced and bought a new CDMA phone. This will give us a little more coverage around the country. Our new number is: 0429 149 458. Tonight we are staying with Sarah and Mark in East Brisbane and getting our things sorted for the next part of the adventure – the trip up to the tip of Australia. WE HAD BETTER GET A MOVE ON!
/p>
May 9th, 2004
Sunday – a day of rest. Spent the day chilling out at the hotel. Mark and Steph arrived on our door step at 5:00 pm and we decided to have room service. Chill out continuing.
May 8th, 2004
Saturday in Bris-vegas – what to do? It had been raining all day so we decided to go the Queensland version of the Korean
Bath House. Not too bad and a lot cleaner than the one in
Sydney. On the way home we stopped at a pub for dinner and a game of snooker and then the lads organised themselves for a big night out. Actually it turned out to be a great night. We now know that Bris-vegas does have some ‘interesting’ places to visit and we think we ended up at both of them during the night! Needless to say we were very tired little bunnies as we crawled into our bed at 5:20 am. Thanks to Mark and Steph for a great night out! (and all the other people we met along the wayJ )
May 7th, 2004
Day 4 and the grand finale. Two dives today. The first one was a little lack lustre due to one of our group having problems with alleviating pressure in her ears. We had a few skills to do and had a travelling photographer to record our journey underwater. We will upload for all to see. The fourth dive was the special one. We were down at 17 metres and came through a trench which lead one of those amazing sites you dream about. It was like being in an aquarium – swimming with an enormous number of fish-ies. Highlights include turtles, huge gropers, clown fish, etc.
We finished around 4:00 pm and hit the road for our return trip to Bris-vegas. A very easy drive up the Pacific Hwy and met up with
Steph and Mark at the Sebel Apartments. After 3 nights in the tent we needed a bit of luxury (really!). Reasonably early night tonight.
May 6th, 2004
Day 3 of the PADI course and first go in the ocean. WOW! Felt very comfortable down in the ocean. Today we went down to 10 metres and had two 30 minute dives. Eagle-eye Nic got the bonus and saw a grey nurse shark and manta-ray as well as a cornucopia of lesser sea dwellers. Jim was too busy “Zening Out” to notice much. On the way back we had a bonus show from the local dolphins who were playing in the breakers just off the beach. An amazing experience. Back to the beach for beers and sunset at the end of the day.
May 5th, 2004
Day 2 of the PADI course. Another day of text books and pool training. Both of us are confident of our skills and look forward to tomorrow. At sunset we wandered down to the beach with a couple of beers and sat there for an hour watching the day drift away. Early night before the big day.
May 4th, 2004
Well today we started our PADI training with Sundive at Byron B ay. The first day was mainly text book stuff in the morning and in the afternoon we practiced our skills in the pool. Excitement building – we go into the ocean on Day 3. Tonight we set up camp at Clark’s Beach campground and had an early night.
May 3rd, 2004
Another perfect day in paradise. Spent most of it at the beach, (bear in mind we find it difficult to get out of the house by 11am), but also did some essential shopping for the next leg of the trip – 4 day PADI dive course and checking into a close by camping ground. Our days will be starting 7:30-8:00 am, through to 5 pm for the next few days, so we want to be close. Also, given the weather, we felt we should venture back to the tent routine. We will be intouch again during our next Internet hook-up, probably in Brisbane over the weekend. xoxo
May 2nd, 2004
Market day in Byron, which starts a relaxed Sunday. Picture perfect weather yet again, so off to the beach after absorbing some local fair flavour. The surf not so up today, leaving the water transparent to the bottom, where fish can be seen around our feet. Some great bodysurfing to be had today, with lots of scantly clad (or just plain butt-naked) guys all joining in on the fun. It just doesn’t get much better than this. Catching a wave in (or being dumped, depending on your timing) while stark naked is quite something. Really puts one in touch with nature and gets sand in places best left undescribed in this public forum. Despite being in the sun all afternoon, we don’t get burnt (must be something to do with the autumn sun). We are like two choco babies by now and coupled with a daily exercise regimen, we’re starting to lose those city pounds and flab. I’d even do myself at the moment! (says Nic) The walk back to the car is always good exercise, requiring a steep up-hill assent through forest to the car park. Lots of bush turkeys scratching around and the occasional leech, which once attached, requires and amazing amount of force to get off. Eventually, Nic comes out on top! We also were able to catch a beautiful sunset from the beach near our apartment. The usual deal to end the day- spa, pool, medication, dinner (well done us, in particular tonight), movie, and Zzzz land. xo
May 1st, 2004
Our new digs are great. This place is so new we are the first people to stay in this apartment. The manager, Frankie, has taken a shine to the boys and takes good care of us. Our balcony is drenched by sun of a morning, so breakfast is leisurely with the Sydney Morning Herald (yet another sign we are back in civilisation. Jim is content). A big day on the beach, the water crystal clear, good surf and loads of eye candy everywhere. Home via Wollies and Video Ezy (some things never change) for a quite one. Before dinner, a lovely soak in the deep and warm spa, interrupted briefly with dips into the freezing cold pool. Frankie (bless her socks) brings us out two bourbon and cokes as a friendly gesture - we really must look like the cheap white trash that we are! Our movie choice: Love Actually. The bed here is great, so once again, we sleep like babes. We love holidays!
April 30th, 2004
Awake to clear blue skies again. The sun is back out although it remains
cool. Very Autumnal. Down to the main pavilion for breakfast and to film to
place for memories, then pack up and into Byron for check-in at the Eco
Resort.
April 29th, 2004
Gourmet breakfast arrives to our cabin at 08:30. This is the way to start a
day. Still raining, the mist prompts us to turn the heater on as we decide
to go into town. Jim puts his foot down to camping in the rain, so we
organise some more accommodation as we have to be out of Peppers tomorrow.
We look at a few places and decide to go for four nights at a new hotel
giving good standby rates (assuming you book the four nights). So much for
camping! Then off to the hairdresser for the infamous chop - all caught on
film by Jim the happy snapper. We went for the fucked-up, wispy, nymph look.
We all love it! Back to the resort for a swim in the pool and spa, follow by
a bottle of Piper Heidsieck in ice and fresh local prawns (sensational) on
our private balcony overlooking the creek and forest. We stay there till
late, watching only the odd smudge of headlight travelling on some ridge
road piecing the waves of mist and darkness. No stars, no moon, very dark.
Emergency call down to the restaurant where the chef makes us a caramel and
a chocolate desert and brings it up on the resort buggy. We love room
service. Sleep like babies!
April 28th, 2004
Fortunately last night we managed to pick up a poor visual but good audio
signal on our portable TV warning us of impending showers. This morning
brought this to reality, waking to the sound of rain-drops on our tent!
While we remained dry, we made a quick getaway (having packed up the
previous evening). The rain kept at bay while we wrapped up the tent in
record time) while the birds sang us goodbye. We were both sad to leave
this amazing place. The road trip out of the park was spectacular through
misty rainforests, towering gums and covered roadways (all gravel, but in
good condition) where we saw a lyre-bird run across our path and into the
forest. The road then winds us through rich faming countryside, somewhat
messy and prompted me to comment how much we like Belligen! Reaching Nimbin
we stoped for a more civilised brunch. A funny place (being there early in
the morning perhaps is not the best time a see a place like this) that
neither of us really liked. Jim thought it was skanky. They have a marijuana
festive on the weekend - which might be more interesting! As luck would have
it, a visiting to wotif.com some days back meant that we had a booking at
Pepper Casuarina Lodge in the Hinterland above Byron Bay. We have stayed
here before, but even with overcast conditions, this place is magnificent. I
love a property that invests significant portions of land to lawn! The creek
has a platypus living on the bank near the BBQ area that completes the magic
of the place. Birds are here too as the garden - full of trees, back onto
hinterland forest. There is one other couple staying - who we don't see -
peaceful, perfect. In to Byron Bay for dinner to catch up with Sue from
Melbourne (who is also up here on holidays, but leaving tomorrow). Rain
doesn't keep us from finding each other at Beaches Hotel, where we also meet
a local couple, David and Megan who seem like lots of fun. Then on to Dish,
a local restaurant that has great service, a cool room and good food -
pricey for this neck of the woods, but not for Sydney-siders. Driving home
was tricky down narrow roads with steady rain in a jet-black night. It's
great to be going home to a nice cabin, satellite TV, hot showers, comfy
bed, flushing toilet. Ahh... civilisation!
April 27th, 2004
05:45 the birds begin. We are amazed by the beauty of the many sounds and
the birds' aerial mastery. This campsite is like a giant aviary and we're
right in the middle. Nevertheless, being down at ground level keeps it all
at a distance. After a good fire and breakfast of fruit and toast and coffee
we head off into the forest to do a 17km all day trip which took us via
superb creeks, palms, many different fungi - we were in deep. Saw three
wallabies, who were shy and took off at first site. The butterflies were
much more social and were brown but not at all drab. There we also a few
small yellow ones and a remarkable pale turquoise iridescent one. Down by
the campsite large orange ones may just be fine specimens of the common
monarch. The walk was long and beautiful. Lunch at Forest Tops (a bunch of
Hippies living out of the back of a camper being the only others in sight)
was delicious - salad rolls, juice and water and fruit. We are so health
today to make up for unhealthy Brisbane. A brief snooze on a sun-drenched
picnic table gave us the energy to push off down the mountain (via the road,
which was quiet scenic in itself allowing some good views of Artic Birches,
stag-horns, Red ceders, eucalypt. Back to camp hot and sweaty so down to the
forest creek for a refreshing swim in a rock pool. Saw another giant
lizard. It's now getting dark so off to dinner of vegetable kormra and rice
and a Wolf Blass Chardy. Lovely. We will sleep well tonight. Xo
April 26th, 2004
Up early. Jim off for a walk, Nic in the hotel Gym. Bodies beautiful!
Heading south (we're going backwards!) to do the Boarder National Park 4x4WD
2-night/ 3 day trip. Yeah. Back to the bush. Clear blue skies ahead! After
sorting out supplies, petrol etc out of Brisbane we headed south west to
Tamookum then into the BNP (crossing the QLD/NSW boarder). After driving
around looking for the best camp site we end back at Sheepstation Creek Camp
Site, which has now been cleared out by the many there earlier and we find a
nice secluded site up against the park. Bell birds and others abound giving
the place a distinctive sound. Tent up in about 20 mins (we're quite good at
it now). Open fire (wood supplied but hard and damp) that eventually warms
everything up. Calm, clear and mild night. Early to bed with lots of
cuddles.
April 25th, 2004
Lazed in bed, Jim up and washing (Bless his socks), more cleansing and day
with Sarah, Mark, Elizabeth, Dad and Marcia.
April 24th, 2004
Travel day Yarangir Park to Brisbane. Car wash in Grafton, Bangalow for
lunch. Good road, beautiful countryside. Check in Rydges South Bank to de-
feralise. Quiet (wink) night in Bris-vagas.
April 23rd, 2004
Castaway Day! Got up early due to the waves on beach being only metres
away. Omelettes for breakfast and then we packed our day packs to do a walk
to the next beach. Saw, excellent single succulent in rocks. After about 40
minutes was came upon Freshwater beach and there we stayed for the rest of
the day. The only two on the beach. Rolls for lunch and two cold beers.
Crystal clear water, sun sand and surf ... ahhh. Next part censored ;-) Back
to camp to rest and saw two large lizards in the heaths on the look out for
campers' unrestrained food - possibly a pumpkin. Then swimming and off to a
walk to the other end of the beach. This is where the real campers stake out
their territory. A rocky walk out to the heads. Saw a turtle just up for air
off the rocks. Water temperature is cool to warm and no nasties. Headed back
to camp for another lovely camp dinner. No mozzies at this location!!
April 22nd, 2004
On Greg's advice we head for .. National Park, just north of Woolgoolga.
Arrive early afternoon and set up camp. To get to the camping area we had
to drive along a beach and cross a small creek - very exciting. Gourmet
dinner of BBQ chicken breasts for jim and spinach and cheese jaffles for
nic. Originally staying for one night but decided that it was too beautiful
to leave so staying an additional night.
April 21st, 2004
5 am nature wake-up call as hundred of fruitbats come into
rest over our tent. Hee Hee! Bat-shit abounds! Break camp,
off to Nana Glen to meet up with Greg, Kelly and co. Arrived
for lunch and spent the rest of the day sipping wine under
the big tree! Lots of school catch-up laughs for Nic and Greg.
Great dinner and then another real bed. Greg and Kelly have
three great boys - Sam, Billy and big James! After a big country
breakfast we headed off to the coast.
April 20th, 2004
Mixed felling about leaving farm and all the fun we had there,
but happy to be onto new adventures. After beautiful country
breakfast, drove to Ebor falls for morning tea (thanks for
the choc. muffins Steph!). Dorrigo Rain Forrest Centre for
walk (saw wallaby and the omnipresent Bush Turkeys). Drove
through beautiful Bellingen Valley to set up camp in Caravan
Park. All without hitch. Into Bellingen for an around town
cruise, back to base for hot showers, yummy cheese and organic
spinach jaffles and CSI on our every-trusty portable B&W TV.
First night on The Precious, lots of cuddles, warms as toast,
very comfortable!
April 19th, 2004
Still at the farm. Need better bedding arrangements when
camping (John - you were right!). Off to Armidale for supplies. Mark's farm
4x4 broke down in town, Jim's first towing exercise -both cars remain in
tact! Purchased new foam mattress (aka The Precious) and doona, ditch
sleeping bags and mats at farm!
April 18th, 2004
Big butch blokie day! Mark sheared a wormy, flowblown goat.
Jim rides the motorcycle and drives around in the big farm 4x4. Nic had major arachnid
breakthrough. He spotted a large spider on jim’s shoulder and was able to brush it off
without falling about in a screaming mess.
April 17th, 2004
Relaxing day about the farm and a trip into Guyra where Mark and
Steph have their factory. Lunch by the creek on the property and then some more sun
lizarding… yum. Dinner and a movie by the fire. Nic saw 4 wedge tail eagles flying
around the farm.
April 16th, 2004
Breakfast by the creek and our first fire for breakfast
(thanks to Nic). Wandered down to our favourite swimming hole and did the
lizard thing for an hour and a half. Big lunch followed by breaking camp.
Lovely drive up to Armidale to Mark and Steph's country residence. We have
our own bed tonight - luxury!
April 15th, 2004
First really challenging off road driving today. Decided not
to break camp but to attempt a circle route through the forest and return
for the night. Great drive through thick forests, mountain streams and
steep terrain. Nic has designed the patented Yacopetti Bush Shower System®
and we all smell great! The concept of being 'time' driven is beginning to
fall by the way side. Dinner - vegi curry with chargrilled chicken and
rice.
April 14th, 2004
Met with Mark & Steph early morning and began a day of firsts.
Our first swim in a crystal clear mountain stream - serenity! Our first
medical alert! Jim gets a leach - Nic responds with the portable mobile
surgical unit and applies tea tree oil and a band-aid. Both patient and
nurse are doing well. Huge open fire accompanied by vegi pasta and few
glasses of vodka. Taj-ma-tent goes up in record time: 28 minutes.
April 13th, 2004
Spectacular escarpments and road trip to Glouchester River,
Communication glitch with my phone - missed Mark and Steph - ended up
staying in our first skanky motel!
April 12th, 2004
Send off from Killcare. Lunch with Gavin and Scotty. Shellys
Beach. Fine sand and crystal clear water.
April 11th, 2004
Yango National Park - Devils rock - Finchly Trig - Wollimbi
Valley and pub
April 10th, 2004
Evening Fondue Swiss Style with Veuve Clicquot. Setting
the standard! @ Killcare with Noelene and Peter.
April 9th, 2004
The big day has finally arrived: Nic and Jim are settings
off for their adventure around Australia!!!
A start with a bang in Brighton Street, Petersham...
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