| Choke work |
| Well, during last winter the car started acting up. First, I would have to slightly depress the pedal after I had pumped it to slightly hold the carb open. Secondly, it would drop rpm and then stall shortly after startup. Then, I could start it right back up. I would take it for a drive to my girlfriend's house or to work, and it would stall going up a hill or at a stop sign. It wouldn't let me start it for another 10 minutes. One day it started acting really funny. It would idle really high as if stuck on the high idle cam, run really rich (causing a stumble), and diesel on shutoff. I replaced both the choke thermostat and choke pulloff. Both were VERY easy. The hardest part was to get the right parts. When I decided to do the thermostat, I called up Autozone and Advance Auto to see who had the better price/availability. Well Advance said they would have it the next morning and cheaper. So the next morning I went there and brought it home. Took it out of the bag and looked at it, looked at the one on the car. Didn't match. The bonehead gave me one for a holley carb w/ electric choke. So I went back, and they gave me the right one, which also was more expensive, of course. This time, I took it off in the parking lot and brought it in to make sure it was right. So that shows how long it must have taken. The only gripe I have about the thermostat is that the wire doesn't stay on it very well, but it seems to have been fine. As for the pulloff, if you want to use the same one I did, you will need the OE # listed below b/c it is not stock for our cars. |
| Parts used: choke thermostat: Walker # 9327 Advance Auto $30 choke pulloff: Wells # CP 115* Autozone $15 *(use OE choke pulloff # 17051261) Total cost: ~ $45 Things you'll need: Phillips head screwdriver Torx bit screwdriver/socket 20 minutes Procedure: 1. Take off the air cleaner 2. Remove the electric choke wire 3. Unscrew the 3 screws holding the choke thermostat (watch out for the washer things behind them!)** 4. Remove the old choke 5. Line up slot on the choke coil w/ the tab on the mechanism, then rotate counterclockwise so that the square marks on the thermostat line up w/ those on the carb body 6. Hold in place while you thread in the screws w/ the washers 7. Tighten screws and replace wire 1. Remove the rubber hose going to the choke pulloff 2. Unscrew the two torx bits holding it on 3. Rotate it to remove the bar from it. 4. Slide new pulloff onto bar and make sure it is seated on the fast idle cam 5. Thread torx screws back in gently 6. Slide rubber hose back on (trim if necessary) 7. Tighten torx screws 8. Replace air cleaner ** - Some of the later CCC carbs had the choke thermostat held in with rivets. If yours is original, you will have to drill out the rivets. I believe the replacement screws are self tapping, but I'm not sure. |
| Notes/Conclusions: I like the Walker thermostat because it also included new hardware. As for the pulloff, I went with that one because the folks at the monte-list said that it opens the secondaries faster. I didn't notice any difference, but its the same cost, and the only modification i had to do was to trim the rubber hose. I did notice that all my problems went away, and gas mileage increased. I performed these procedure at different times, so I did notice that the new thermostat seemed to help off the line performance. It must have been running rich before... |