| I don't have any pics of the sensor or connector, but use your imagination :) One day this past winter (2000), after a conversation on g-body.org, I decided to swap a heated oxygen sensor onto my monte. I did this for several reasons. First, I like to be different :) Second, I needed a new one anyway. Third, I figured since a motor is built to run in closed loop, why not do as much as possible to get it there sooner? As a side effect, I hoped to see a small increase in gas mileage, especially in the chilly CT winter mornings. After a few more posts on the list, we got a AC Delco part #, AFS-74. Its a three wire sensor, which has a heat sleeve over the wires and a weatherpack connector on the end. You should be able to get it by using GM part # 25312179. You can also look up the O2 sensor for a 1994 S10 Blazer, 2WD, w/ 4.3 CPI engine. Now, to mate this to your stock wiring, you have two choices. You can either get a three prong weatherpack connector out of the above said truck in a junkyard, or you can try to find one on another accesory in a late model car/truck. Just make sure it is a female weatherpack w/ three wires. If you don't want to go to the junkyard, you can order Motormite # 85393. It should run about $9. Now, what I chose to do was to wire the sensor so that if need be I could remove it and all its associated wiring and convert back to the stock type (non-heated) sensor w/o cutting alot of wires. [ECM]----[ {-------[stock sensor] -----[ {------------ground (brown)----_____ (choke) -----[ {------------power (brown)-----| O2 | [ECM]----[ {----|-----[ {-----------sensor (purple)----|sens| | ______ cut here Make sure you solder all connections !!! There is no difference between the two brown wires, pick one for power, the other is ground. (NOTE: color scheme's may be different for brands other than AC Delco. However, all sensors should have two identical colored wires, ground/power, and one other, signal. If you are unsure about the wiring color code, install the sensor without wiring it and start the car. Use a voltmeter to check for 0-1V signal from the sensor, that's the signal wire, and the other two are ground/power) For ground, you can choose anything underhood that is clean of paint and rust, or you can run it into the interior/dash. For power, you need to feed it off of an ignition on power source. I chose to use the electric choke lead for my power supply. Make sure to wrap all wires and route them away from heat. This way, if you want to, all you have to do is unplug the male plug at the header and cut the power and ground leads. You can keep the whole setup intact and use it in another car, and plug a stock nonheated sensor directly into the female end ! This was put together with help and posts from the g-body.org list, especially Jared Ryan. If you have any questions, email me at [email protected] |