Two days before Pesach* we went to a Pidyon HaBen. A Pidyon HaBen is the special ceremony performed over a firstborn son when he is thirty days old, according to the Biblical injunction, 'You shall redeem every son who is the first of his mother's womb' (Exodus 13). Practically speaking,this excludes any child born by cesarean section, or child whose parents are of the seed of Aaron the High Priest (Levites or Cohanim)*. It is thus not surprising that this was the first time in my life I had been to one.

The ceremony and accompanying meal were held in the tiny hall at theback of the Hurva Synagogue. This synagogue, as well as the adjacent Menachem Zion synagogue was part of a neighborhood dating back to the eighteenth century. It was named after Rabbi Yehuda HaHasid, a saintly mystic who had made aliyah* from Poland in 1700 with his disciples and died within days of his arrival. Irate Arab creditors burned down the entire neighborhood, including both synagogues, in 1720. These may have been the tax collectors, who tried to squeeze even more money from the impoverished Jewish community than the Sultan in Constantinople demanded. After this time, the synagogue was nicknamed the 'Hurva,' meaning 'Ruin,' by which it has been known ever since. The Ashkenazi community rebuilt the synagogue in the mid-nineteenth century, to the massive height of twenty-four meters. It was one of the two tallest buildings in the Quarter, its domed roof one of the Quarter's landmarks from afar. Inside, too, it was awe-inspiring, with a double Aron Kodesh,two storeys high, with intricate wood carvings of birds and flowers. Dozens of Torah scrolls stood behind its gold-plated doors. These doors themselves were covered by a magnificent multi-colored embroidered curtain.

Besides the windows in its walls, there were twelve windows, representing the twelve tribes of Israel, in the lower part of the huge domed ceiling. All these windows would throw sunlight onto the Aron Kodesh on the eastern wall, facing the Kotel and the Temple Mount. Gigantic crystal chandeliers hung from the lofty sky-blue star-strewn dome. Paintings with religious motifs decorated the triangles formed by the perpendicular arches on each of the four corners. The synagogue served as the center of the Ashkenazi community which re-established itself in Jerusalem at this time.

Although it was not a defense position during the War of Independence in 1948, it was nonetheless blown up by the Arab Legion. 'HaHurva Harva' - The Ruin is ruined. were the headlines of every newspaper following that 27th day of May in 1948.

Upon our return to the Old City in 1967, the ruins of this synagogue were cleared, its remaining walls reinforced, and one of its supporting arches was reconstructed in memory of the "Hurva."

Today, the little room at the back of this once truly magnificent synagogue was packed to overflowing. The little month-old baby, wearing a white hat, and covered in a light white blanket, lying so sweetly on a large padded tray, was asleep during all the proceedings. His father, whose deep blue eyes reflected both the joy and seriousness of the occasion, gave the Cohen* a special gold coin as redemption money for his son. His mother, who was wearing a long, flowing dress of Indian fabric, sat reticently among the crowd. Singing interspersed words of Torah during the meal: May you see the children of your children, peace, peace upon Israel." (Psalms 128)

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* Pesach: Passover

* Cohen, pl. Cohanim: Priest, Priests

* Aliyah: (lit: ascent) immigration to the Land of Israel

* Aron Kodesh: Holy Ark of the synagogue, in which are kept the Scrolls of the Law

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(Note: in Within the Walls of Jerusalem, these terms are found in the detailed glossary at back of book.)

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