Kelley's Works in Progress
Frequently Asked Questions
Since we're getting asked a number of questions, we've decided to add this FAQ for your reference. If you have a question, please read through this first - it's not that we don't want to answer your question, but we're trying to make things easier for you (if it's not here, ask away! Not only will you get an answer, but we keep track of questions for addition to the FAQ. This makes things easier all around...)
1) I don't see my vehicle listed. Can you supply me with cables for it anyhow?
1a) Sure! If it's a Jeep, it's not listed because no-one has ordered cables for it yet, so I don't have measurements for it in my notes anywhere. If it's not a Jeep, I can still make cables for it - click here for instructions on how to measure you cables to get your best fit. All of our cables are cut to order, which makes it easier to do custom jobs.
2) I need custom cabling for my amp/second alternator/winch/distribution/whatever. Can you supply me with that?
2a) Not a problem - again, you'll have to check for instructions on measuring and mocking up your cable runs. Also, for anything that constitutes a severe power draw (like an electric winch,) we'll need more information. 1AWG cable may not be large enough to carry that load safely, and we'd have to order something larger (we typically only have 1AWG and 4AWG on hand.)
3) How long does it take for my order to come in?
3a) Typically, WiP ships orders the day after payment is received. If we have all the materials to build your cables on hand, we're not going to sit on your order and let it collect dust (great way to have it get "lost in the system," don't you agree?) However, there are times when we have what we refer to as "logistical breaks" - read: we run out of stuff - and we have to wait for it to come in. Shipping time from our suppliers is typically 7-12 days, and we ship our stuff out via USPS Priority Post (three days to pretty much anywhere in the US.) We will tell you if we have a "logistical break" that we're dealing with beforehand/when your order comes in. Please allow up to four weeks for your cables and such to get to you - but it's typically less than a week.
4) What about the other parts you're planning?
4a) Please do bear in mind that Works in Progress is a "one-man show," and I do have other things that require my attention. I don't like keeping things on hold either, and once I get an idea, I'd like to see it in use myself.
That being said, there is also the "prototype stage" that everything has to go through (read: I've got to run it on one of my rigs for a while before I feel good about selling it,) and not all of the design/construction work is something I have the resources to do right here. For instance, I've got to get CNC time to make prototypes of some of my hard parts, and I've got to have clear decks for a few days to design wiring harnesses and the like. I hope you understand - just because I've got the idea doesn't mean I want to rush it to market. If I won't run it on one (or more!) of my own rigs, you're not going to run it on yours. This makes for a longer prototype cycle, but I'm cranky. Sorry, but that's my story and I'm stickin' to it.
5) Why do you ship with the US Postal People?
5a) A few reasons - they give the best price; they deliver to PO boxes, APOs, and FPOs; and they deliver on Saturday for no extra charge being the top of the list. We can ship other ways - but please ask. We'll have to change our shipping rates accordingly. Besides, the Postal People offer a "flat rate" box that allows us to maintain a regular shipping cost for all kits, custom jobs, and anything that isn't too massive...
6) Do you do international orders?
6a) You bet! We've shipped to Canada, South Africa, and the UAE (for example.) Of course, we need to fill out customs paperwork on our end, we have to charge actual shipping (flat rate just won't cover it...) and any customs, excise, or import duties are your responsibility. If you're in a country that handles PayPal, you can use that - if not, we will require a postal money order (NO personal cheques!) payable in US Dollars. You should be able to find these at any bank or your local postal agency. We've looked into accepting wire transfers, but the cost of the wire would cost more than your order, in most cases. We use the US Postal People for shipping - they've given just about the best rates for international shipping, and they're easier to get to. Just ask, if you want to know how much your shipping will be - it only takes us a few minutes to find out, most of the time.
7) All my cables came in, and they're all the same colour - how can I tell them apart?
7a) While it's possible for something like this to happen, (we try to make all supply cables red and all ground cables black,) it's a simple fact that we go through more red cable than we do black cable - simply because more of our custom jobs require it. Since we're still "small volume" and trying to keep our pricing agreeable, "logistical breaks" (again, that means we're out of something) are an unfortunate side effect. Part of keeping our prices down is trying to not pay for speedy shipping on goods incoming - that's also a cost that we have to pass along.
Cable boxes are heavy, and cost to ship. They also take time - usually, a week and a half or so. In an effort to expedite things along, we'll sometimes substitute black cable for red, for instance (although we really try to not do that too often.) How can you tell them apart? The heat shrink used to seal the cable ends is always the correct colour for where the cable is used - it's a reliable identifier (we have a local source for heat shrink tubing, so we don't have to wait for that.)
If the colouring of your cabling is critical, please indicate by saying "NOSUB" in your order message. Please note that this may delay your order somewhat - if we're waiting for a shipment to come in.
8) What are these solenoids you've got for? Do I need one?
8a) They're used in place of solid-state battery isolators. While the SS isolator may have a bit more in the way of functionality, the solenoid has the advantages of being smaller and (usually) cheaper than the solid state - as well as being more reliable overall. I've been using solenoid isolators in various applications for years.
The solenoids I offer are "constant-duty," meaning the 85A unit will pass 85A with the contacts closed all day long without trouble, overheating, or melting down. Some people use older Ford starter motor solenoids as isolators because they're cheaper - but they're not designed for the constant load, and end up getting replaced four to six times a year in regular use. These "constant duty" solenoids will last for years.
I offer two for typical uses - one rated for 85A constant service (serves for most,) and one for 200A constant service (on a special-order basis.) Which one do you need? If you're not sure - ask! The 85A will serve for most people who are adding electronics and such - even with a 200A alternator, the solenoid is rarely going to see all of that 200A (assume your alternator is generating full output for a moment. The engine and control setup pulls 40A or so right off the top, then anything wired to your main battery is going to draw power as well - before the solenoid sees anything!
The 200A unit is offered on a "special order" basis - most people who want this one are going to want to carry around a spare with them, since they're into S&R, disaster response, and things like that. We're talking heavy on the electronics, heavy on the lighting, heavy on the winching, and enough power to drive a city block without too much trouble. And, of course, heavy on the reliability (not a problem with me, but there are times where reliability costs money, and that is definitely one of them!)
9) Why do you have question marks in some termination listings?
9a) Because I don't know what PDC you have in your rig. That's why I need you to check - so I can terminate those cables with a lug that fits securely. Since the alternator output can go to either the PDC input post or the battery + terminal, that also introduces a change. Electrically speaking, they're the same connection.
If you're running the alternator output to the battery or the ANL fuse block, you'll need a 3/8" ring on the end of the cable. The PDC gets a 1/4" ring for the 6m/m screwposts, or a 3/8" ring for the 8m/m screwposts. In both of those cases, a washer is recommended to maximise contact (but not strictly necessary. Just a good idea...)
10) Do I have to use your battery clamps?
10a) Hardly. You can use any common marine-style or ordnance-style battery clamp that terminates with a binding post (to accept the ring lugs.) You can use pretty much anything that will accept a 3/8" ring (let me know if you need a 1/4" or 1/2" ring - most clamp binding posts are 5/16" or 3/8".) I simply offer my cast brass battery clamps as a convenience for people who can't find anything locally, or for people who may want something a bit better than the usual lead clamps. However, the lead clamps will be fine as well.
Nota Bene - Do not use the side posts for starting current, winch current, or anything that needs more than 100A! Likewise any binding post built into the battery - they can't handle the current! These are fine for secondary distribution under 100A tho - and the side posts will accept a 3/8"-16 UNC screw. You Have Been Warned...
RENIX FAQs
Since RENIX carries its own set of oddities, I thought it deserved its own section of the FAQ page. So, here are questions I've gotten so far...
R1] You've got two "optional" mains cables listed for 1987-1990XJ and MJ - what are those?
Those are "optional" for a reason - not everyone will need them. How do you know if you do? Keep reading...
R2] What's this "chassis ground" for?
I don't know why AMC neglected this one, but it was an actual good idea from when ChryCo engineers started revising things! On RENIX, the chassis is grounded through the engine block - by way of the ground strap from the firewall to the cylinder head, and then through the cable from the engine block to the battery. This can be fraught with failures - and this is the reason that the firewall ground strap is known as "The RENIX Killer."
Installing this additional ground provides a more direct ground path for the chassis - which is important, because this is also the primary ground for the Engine Control Unit and for some key electrics! This is a ground I'd suggest everyone add as part of a mains installation - it can't hurt, and it's very likely to help!
R3] How about this "alternator case ground?"
If you've got a RENIX rig, the engine is grounded toward the rear. The alternator is mounted up front. This is a relatively long ground path for high current output, and could cause you trouble (even with a stock alternator - I've seen it happen!) Since RENIX uses a Delco CS-130 alternator, there is provision for a direct ground (which is not easily done with the later ND alternator - but the engine ground is closer.)
If you've upgraded past, say, 140A - this ground is a good idea. If you've noted "floating output" at cruise or part-throttle without changing the electrical load, you're also a likely candidate for a "floating ground" that this cable can correct.
There is a cast boss on the back of the alternator case that has been drilled and tapped to accept an M8-1.25 screw. If you order the alternator ground for RENIX, I'll provide the screw as well - you fix one end of the cable to the alternator with the screw provided, and the other end goes directly to the battery - terminal. So much for the floating ground...