|This tech page is valid for all Flaminia's and provides the information you need for a regular service. As with everything, common sense applies here too and if you want to enjoy your car, it has to work properly. In order to do so, the car has to be stored decently, away from moist and covered up to avoid scratches and dents. The Flaminia needs a lot of maintenance on a regular basis. The most important tool you need is a grease gun (click to see the maintenance scheme), to grease the 16 nipples of the front suspension, two on top of the rear wheel bearings, one at the bottom of the pedals, 4 on the door hinges... aso. Another important point are the electrics. Check the spark plug wires and all the other ones around the delco and coil. Even if they still work, it's best to change them as they are probably corroded and thus fragile. Enjoying an "oldtimer" is also preparing it to avoid problems in the future. If the steering feels sloppy, check the steering box for play and the the 4 joints of the steering shaft. After all these years, the grease they contain has probably dried up. It's quite easy to work with a wiring diagram (especially as Flaminia's have no colour coded wires) (click here to see the wiring diagram) where each wire is numbered..|
Needs to be done every 5.000 kms or every year. I use 10W30 (6.6 litres oil cartridge included) multigrade oil and change the oil filter every two oil changes. The filter cartridge can be ordered from FRAM under ref. CH 801PL, but it is very important to keep the original rubber seal on top of the metal (orange) filter housing. The oilfilter cartridge is delivered with two seals, but none of them will fit, so keep yours carefully.
There are no specific problems with the oil system, but pay close attention to the hoses connecting the oil cooler. When revving, the oil pressure inside these hoses is rising. If they're cracked, it's possible they burst resulting in an immediate loss of oil pressure. Check the oil pressure tube going to the pressure gauge the same way. Both can easily be reproduced if the original parts are delivered to a workshop making pressure hoses for industry appliances.
Needs servicing every 10.000 kms or two years. I use 4.1 litres oil Esso XP COMPOUND EP 90. There's an oil filter element which should be cleaned, but it's hard to retrieve it without damaging it. Thanks to it's own oil pump, the gearbox lasts forever. A Flaminia gearbox is displayed at the Briggs Cunningham Museum in the USA....
I filled it up with Penrite's "Liquid Grease" and I have no problems with it. As it is a little thickier, it cannot leak and assures a perfect constant lubrication. I checked the play just once (loosen the outer screw and settle with a screwdriver till the play is almost gone. If it's too tight it will wear faster) and didn't had to do it again since years. Normally the same lubricant as the gearbox can be used too.
Don't forget to oil the distributor via the oil filler cap. Also check the contacts (0.37 - 0.43 mm) for corrosion. Should these being in need of replacement, new ones can be ordered at Omicron (see links). The spark plugs I used are Champion N5, Beru or the more expensive Golden Lodge HL2. The breaker points are fixed on a small axle. Never dismiss the retainer on top of it. If you encounter starting problems which come and go... and everything seems OK, it's probably that little retainer which is missing!
As I have the simplier single Solex car setup, I never had the slightest trouble with it (nor had the triple Webers on our GT). The fuel pump's electric connections should be checked as it's most of the time an electric problem rather than a malfunctioning Bendix. If you decide to replace it, check if the delivered pressure is the same.
As brake oil has a tendency to absorb moist from the air, it's vital to keep the cover firmly closed. Because of this caracteristic, brake oil should be changed every 3 years. Be prepared to replace the 2 front brake hoses and the rear one on top of the gearbox, as when changing the oil, the dirt tends to loosen up blocking them completely. This can have several symptoms, like not braking straight, or brakes (one or more) that keep braking when the pedal is released aso.
The loss of brake oil can have several causes too. The most current one is a failure in the brake booster, which enables the engine to suck corrosive brake oil through the vacuum hose on the inlet manifold. Dismantle the booster if you're up to the job, or have it delivered where they can repair it (Remetafrein in Brussels - Omicron in UK- Nino Mezzo in Belgium...)
Another cause can be found in worn brakeseals in the brake claws. I once managed to repair these by polishing the inside, but the best way is to have a them machined to insert stainless steel sleeves.
Solving the unleaded fuel problem with additives seems very satisfying. I use "Millenium" and add it to 98 Leadfree. I haven't driven enough to see if there is any valve wear. Should this occur, new valves will have to be fitted but it seems very effective till now.
|PART MANUFACTURER PART N° - REF.
BELT GATES 6223 MC 10*1075
POINTS SCHIER 335
AIR FILTER SINGLE CARB
AIR FILTER 3B
AIR FILTER 3C FRAM CA 4595
OIL CARTRIDGE FRAM CH 801 PL
SPARK PLUGS CHAMPION - NGK N5 - BP 8ES
BRAKE PADS LOCKHEED LP 0111
FERODO 2430 F.FF
|The engine bay of my 2800 Sedan. I've changed the vacuum system forf the window cleaner for an electric one, added a fuel filter, changed all the wires related to the ignition and had the brake booster overhauled. When I rebuilt it, I've also dismantled and cleaned the triple vacuum valve on the firewall which was clogged with dirt. I've also made new spark plug wires. The only part I haven't found yet is the right air filter element. I had to "adapt" another one untill then. The Fiamm air horns must be oiled when the compressor is running and when doing this, don't forget a tip of oil on the distributor via the little filler cap on it. The radiator has been renewed to avoid heating and leaking problems. All radiator and heater hoses are new.|
If the dynamo light on the dashboard stays on when the engine is revving,it means the engine receives its electric power from the battery only and the dynamo is not charging anymore. The problem is easily resolved by changing the brushes inside the dynamo itself. If these are OK, it's probably a defect voltage regulator. Inside the regulator are several contacts, clean them with contact spray first before thinking about replacement. Check here for the wiring.
|The lubrication of the rear wheel bearings is very important as they're hard to find, very expensive if found... and quite tricky to change as special tooling is required. The English Lancia Motor Club has the tooling available for its members.|
|To check the oil level, use the dipstick located on top of the gearbox. There's a removable plate in the trunkfloor to reach it.
A major improvement over the Aurelia gearbox is the use of a conventional steel tube instead of the hydraulical system to select the gears. Some Aurelia's are "upgraded" with the Flaminia linkage and floor shift so it's not always a "NARDI" conversion...
| VERY IMPORTANT
Mr. Bert Ewalds has been so kind to scan each table of the Lancia Flaminia Tavola book. These scans show each nut and bolt of the Flaminia and represent an indispensable tool for those working on these cars. Unfortunatly I haven't enough free space to put them online, but if you need a particular 'tavola' just let me know and I'll send it by e-mail. Many thanks to Mr. Ewalds for his very interesting contribution. Mail me your needs by E-mail.