"Me at home" -  by famed Malaysian cartoonist Lat
Kuala Lumpur - Malaysia
KL's Chinatown-  is a crowded colourful mélange of signs, shops, activity and noise. The central  section, Jalan Petaling, is a frantically busy market that is closed to traffic. It is most spectacular at night, when the combination of street stalls, food, haggling and bright lights makes impressions on all five senses. The old buildings - undergoing constant restoration by conservation groups - are interesting in themselves, while bargain-hunters and collectors of kitsch might be in luck as well.
Petronis Twin Tower- Two years ago Jamal and I visited the 88 story Petronis twin tower – at 452 meters it is claimed to be the world’s tallest building, that time the observation tower was closed – Jamal was so disappointed. This time we were in luck – after passing through security scanners and the bit too  friendly body search we ascended to the observation bridge joining the 2 towers. Jamal like almost everyone else complained – "why can’t we go to the top?" – the guide answered, "you just can’t – that’s why it is free." The Petronas Twin Towers, are the inspired symbol of Malaysia's new landmark to the world.
John & Jamal on the 42nd floor tower bridge
View from the Petronis Twin Tower bridge
The Kuala Lumpur Railway Station- another Moorish-influenced feature in the city. Designed by a British architect, A. B. Hubbock who specified the roof  withstand 6 feet of snow. the station was completed in 1911, it was refurbished in 1986 when its old world grandeur was restored. The building houses the Heritage Hotel which offers a specially created ambience reflecting the pre independence era of old Malaya. We visited on two occasions once for lunch and a second time for dinner in the Victorian dining room of the Heritage hotel situated inside the station. They serve good old English fare including Fish & Chips, lamb chops & Ploughman's pie.
The grand old Majestic hotel - just over the road from the station, where John stayed 31 years ago. Sadly is is now closed.
Malaysian Railways Administration Building - over the road and to the right of the Majestic.
Masjid Jamek - again designed by British architect A. B. Hubbock,  is evidence of Malaysia's large Indian-Muslim community. Built in 1909, the mosque sits  serenely at the confluence of the Gombak and Klang Rivers. It features onion shaped domes, arched colonnades and shiny, cool, marble floors.
The Sultan Abdul Amad Building - Jamal's favourite building in Kuala LLumpur - the building was built in  1897 to house the various administrative departments of the Colonial British Government at that time. Its Moorish features have attracted the interest of visiting historians and students of architecture. Today, the building houses the  Supreme and High Courts and also Infokraf, a center for Malaysian handicrafts.
On to Penang Island
The Cathay Hotel - We stayed in Penang at the graceful 125 year old Cathay. The hotel has over 30 spacious rooms $24 per night for a room with a multi-speed ceiling fan or  $29 per night for an air-conditioned room. The rooms are huge and features colour Tv, original (working) black bakelite phone and a beautiful polished wooden floor - ensuite bathroom with hot and cold water. 
John at the bar
The ornate lobby
The Eastern & Orient Hotel- Known as the E&O Hotel is was built by the Armenian Sarkie brothers.  The Eastern began its colourful history back in 1884. The hotel gained overwhelming popularity almost overnight, in 1885, the Oriental was established. Both hotels then combined to form the Eastern & Oriental Hotels. The Sarki's also built the Penang Hill hotel and the famed Raffles Hotel,  Singapore. The combination of both hotels proved to be a success, The E & O stood majestically with its Moorish minarets, spacious domed lobby and endless seafront. By 1927, the hotel was advertised as "the premier hotel east of the Suez" and acknowledged as having the longest seafront lawn in the world at 842 ft. 
The Sarki Brothers
The E & O in its heyday
John at the E&O hotel
Jamal & the world's longest lawn
The Queen Victoria Memorial Clock –  opposite the old wharf, was donated by a local Chinese millionaire to honour Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee in 1897, it stands 60 ft high, one foot, for each year of her reign.
Penang Hill - we took the 30 minute slow 850 meter climb up the hill in a funicular, actually two of them, you change half way. The line was built by a Swiss company in 1923 and the carriages were  modernized in 1975.
The single carriage carrying up to  30 passengers, pushes a “front-trailer” up the hill.  At the top is the worlds longest perpendicular tunnel – quite an engineering feat in it’s day.
In order for the two carriages to pass each other at the halfway point, the track splits into 2, the train automatically takes the left track, guided by a double flanged wheel on the left side. The right wheel has no flange.
One of the original 1923 funicular carriages displayed at the top of Pinang hill, another is used as a souvenir shop at the National Museum.
At the top of the hill is a magnificent Hindu temple alongside a Mosque and the Penang Hill hotel built by the Sarki brothers of Raffles fame.
The house of Cheong Fat Tze- over the road from our hotel -  Cheong,  known in the 19th century as the Rockefeller of the East. His business empire stretched through out asia. He died in 1916, such was his aura and fame the British and Dutch authorities ordered that flags be flown at half mast throughout their colonies. The house is reputed to be only one of two of its kind outside China. While the floor plan of the 38 room house is essentially Chinese, the overall effect is typical of Straights Settlements architecture.
Party Time at the KHO
Farewell party for Ines, before she left for a month in the States
A Salubrious Evening
Friends Roberto and Vevin invited us to a sumptuous meal of Grandma’s Stuffed Roast Chicken, at their Riviera style home in Rue de Semér, Kerobokan, Bali, to wish us well for our tour.
May, 2003
 xKHO News is published monthly your contributions are welcome xxxx Prices quoted are in Australian dollars unless indicated otherwise
Tuesday April 8 we headed of to Denpasar airport Bali for our long awaited two week holiday to the Asian continent.  The previous day it was announced that the housewife - President of Indonesia had changed an almost 20 year
old decree signed by former President Soeharto to allow the nationals of 48 countries including 
"That'll fix them"
Australia a free visa, to promote tourism. The visa was issued free on arrival for a period of 60 days. The citizens of other countries having to apply for a visa or receive a 30 day visa on arrival at a cost of $50 US. Meg has now reduced the number of eligible countries to 10. Australian's are no longer eligible. We were in panic as to what to do on our return – there was no further information forthcoming as in when will the changes take effect etc. Even now we still don’t know. Talk about shoot yourself in the Sepak Bola’s, then I guess Meg doesn’t have any, although some would say otherwise.  Ind. Sepak Bola - Eng. Soccer ball
SARS
Arriving at the airport we were surprised to see most airline staff all masked up no doubt to hide their Identity in face of (SARS) the Sudden Airline Restructuring  Syndrome,  which most airlines have resorted to since a huge
drop in passengers during Mr Bush’s unsuccessful attempt to find  “Weapons of Mass Distraction” in Iraq.
TRAIN TRIP CANCELLED
Thanks to the visa uncertainty created by Boo Meg we decided it was best to apply for a 6 month social visa at the KL Indonesian  Embassy. The visa is not initially 6 months – it is 60 days, extendable monthly up until a total of 6 months when you must leave the country. On our arrival in SINGAPORE  we were surprised to find the only persons wearing masks were the health inspector sisters, who we were told to report to if we felt ill. We took the highly efficient 15 minute $1.60 subway train from the airport to Geyling where we spent the night at the $49 Hotel 81 “Gold” After a few sips of our “Duty free” we headed of to Bugis Street for dinner “al Fresco” The next morning we headed by bus to JAHORE BARU in MALAYSIA after transiting customs we were on our 5 hr $5.40 journey to Kuala Lumpur. We stayed in the clean and cheap $34 China Town Hotel, right in the center of CHINA TOWN
Jamal on the very colourful  bus
We were forced to wait in KL for 6 days waiting for the visa. We made the most of it and saw much more of KL than we would have otherwise.  Incidentally, Malaysia gives a 3 month free automatic visa on arrival that can easily be extended by visiting the immigration office, no wonder they are the tourism leaders of Asia. 
One night we went to the famed COLISEUM HOTEL for dinner - where Somerset Maugham once sat, nowadays  KL’s famous Straights Times cartoonist, LAT drops by. 
Cartoonist Lat with self portrait
The hotel, bar and restaurant has barely changed since it as built in 1921 “To change it would be bad luck” said the 3rd generation Chinese owner. We enjoyed a very pleasant evening at the Coliseum - the food was excellent contrary to the advice from Lonely Planet guide.
The Coliseum Hotel
The restaurant
The Coliseum bar
Another highlight in KL was a visit to the ISLAMIC ART MUSEUM Among the galleries there is the Islamic Architecture Gallery which showcases miniature replicas of renowned buildings such as the Taj Mahal, Imam Ismail Albukhary Mosque and Museum and the Amir Timur Mausoleum. Apart from this gallery is the Standard Chartered Ottoman Room which displays objects from the reign of the OTTOMAN EMPIRE  of Turkey and Syria. In the Al-Quran and Manuscripts Gallery is a collection of more than 200 Islamic manuscripts which include a 30-Judz' Al-Quran from the MING DYNISTY.  One favourite place to hang around , just near China Town - the CENTRAL MARKET which has hidden away a full American Bar - a rarity in Malaysia.
After 6 days in KL we headed by $5 bus to BUTTER WORTH  where we took the ferry to GEORGE TOWN on Penang island.
Penang from the ferry
I had not been to Penang for 30  years and could not believe the changes. With Penang hill in the background it now  looks like Hong Kong. Fortunately the old colonial  area has survived and must be one of the best preserved example of British colonial architecture. On arrival we headed straight for the Cathay Hotel. (see story left) Many mornings we had breakfast at the Bakery, their speciality is freshly  baked hot croissant with a large red saveloy forced into it and smothered with tomato sauce.
Breakfast at the Bakery
The NATIONAL HISTORY  MUSEUM is a former commercial bank dating back to 1910. The Museum accumulates rese arches, collection, records and publications in regard to the nation's treasures. Exhibits include the 520 million-year-old metamorphic sandstone, a 4,000-year-old Homo sapiens skull and an eight-sided gold coin dating back to the 15th century.
John at the Museum
One day we took a $30 high speed 2½ hr ferry trip to Langkawi Island – Malaysia’s much over rated tourist destination – a white elephant in my opinion, not worth mentioning, which I won’t. Seems all it has going for it is that it is duty free.
The "beach" in Langkawi.
Main St - Langkawi
On our second last day we decided to fly back to SINGAPORE to save time, with Malaysian Airlines, we were lucky enough to have a storm on the way, with much turbulence – which made it an interesting flight.
Our MAS 737-400 Penang
In transit at KLIA
After a day of frantic shopping – Jamal bought lots of nick-naks and gifts.  I bought a Samsung digital camera which will no doubt enhance the KHO news.
We headed back to Bali, very happy with our Holiday. we can’t wait to return and finally do our grand train trip. maybe next year.
Hopefully Meg will be back in her kitchen by then.
Ines escapes the heat
Here we see Ines with friend Sheila last week outside the historic Empress hotel built in 1908 on the banks of Victoria Harbour, British Colombia Canada. Ines arrived back in Bali on April 28.
Reunion
5 years ago Pak Made and his son Wayan did the first year of renovations at the KHO. Last week they dropped in to renew acquaintances.
3 Coins in the Fountain
The KHO garden now sports a new "Wishing Well" fountain.
We found a good quality professional pump in Malaysia, rated at 10w & pumps 1800 litres per hour. The submerged high intensity 2 cm red LED's can be seen next to the water jet.- Yes there are 3 coins.
The red fountain at night – very effective – looks like Madonna cut her wrists in the water. 
While we were in Malaysia, Jamal’s younger brother Deni looked after the KHO.  During the time he gave the office it’s annual repaint.
Soccer Night 
Saturday night, Wayan and friend Ketut came over for dinner and to Join Jamal and Deni watch  Lazio and Juventus play. Unfortunately along with 15 others Wayan lost his job at Villa’s Alu this week due to the lack of guests who are staying away in droves to avoid SARS.
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