The return trip to the "main" land was just as rough due to the seasonal strong winds from the north. But thanks to Gravol we were laughing/sleeping all the way! At arrival we boarded a minibus and were whisked away to Chiayi, the main town in the area. After a quick bowl of rice and "stuff" we called it a night in our standard, US$ 35 hotel.
Since Papa wanted to climb nearby 13000 ft. Yushan, he spent a few hours running around town the next morning to find out that getting a mountain permit for just one person was not possible. We left for the mountains anyways and arrived in Alishan after a very scenic bus ride over a narrow road with vertiginously steep ravines. During the weekend the place is supposed to be like Kenting, but now it was dead quiet (the
weather was drizzling). Mommy and I got an OK room and not being careful I slipped and fell on my face with a cut lip as a result. Luckily no stitches needed this time, but gee... I should listen better when my parents warn me to be careful...
Papa of course had to climb a mountain so he woke up at 5 for Chushan (Sunrise Peak) the next day and walked over a neat path with stone slabs and lights all the way. However, one hour later at the top, no sunrise, due to the clouds. We hiked in the area together to see some amazing giant red cypresses in the fog and then caught the narrow gauge toy train early pm to Fenqihu. A very nice trip making several switchbacks (i.e. back & forth), through dense forest (bamboo, elephant leaves, palm trees, etc.) and steep mountain slope bridges. Arrived again in pouring rain in this tiny village known all over Taiwan for its railway station lunch-box (indeed quite good with rice, meat and veggies). There are just a few covered alleys with quaint shops but the place was deserted. The real reason we came here was for Mommy. Her quest was to find the very rare square bamboo patch she had read about, and she was not going home without a souvenir of this. Next to the railway station there indeed was a small grove with bamboo that's not round but rather square. Quite unique! After she got her piece she was happy and we caught an early bus back down to Chiayi. We found a clinic where a nice doctor removed my stitches and gave me a cream for my lip. Then a train and a bus to our next destination: Lukang, known for its nice atmosphere and historic feel.
As usual, Mommy set out with the guide book to find a clean place to stay, while Papa and I stayed with the bags at the bus station. She returned disillusioned: they were all dives! Then Papa took over and left on the recommendation of another one. A little later he came back with a car driven by a nice lady who took us to "Lukang Matsu Temple Pilgrim's Building" a beautiful new and large hotel with a great location. After my arrival ritual of jumping on the bed for a few minutes (only loosening those stiff springs a bit...) we went out for
dinner. We found a restaurant nearby with a nice lady (Jia-Ling) who spoke English very well and she served us some local specialties, such as oyster omelet and a delicious steamed fish. She was very helpful and friendly during the two days we were in Lukang.
The next day we were lucky to just happen on a dance ceremony in front of the Matsu Temple. Matsu is one of Taiwan's main Gods (of the sea) and can be seen in many temples with his black face. Alerted by firecrackers we ran to get our cameras and witnessed a procession of people dressed in colourful costumes. There was a large dragon dance right in the temple square and the firecrackers were frightening and deafening. They also lit boxes full of "sirening" rockets going in all directions. Others were playing instruments and a large drum. Quite a cacophony! We left to visit the market and bought some fruit (papaya, watermelon, mango, sugarcane, etc.). The streets were lined with vendors of oysters, sweets, cakes, yams, etc. On one of the main streets we entered a little
shop known for its traditional painted paper lanterns. My parents bought me a few small round ones and I asked the shopkeeper to paint them with various scenes. We also bought two nice square ones for our new home as a souvenir of Taiwan. After a quick lunch at Jia-Ling's place we needed to call Oma to wish her happy birthday. Easier said then done, but finally after a few hours of buying several phone cards, trying many payphones and visiting a few telephone offices we finally connected. Of course she was ecstatic! We further celebrated the day with another special meal at Jia-Ling's, this time with bamboo brandy!
We decided to visit another folk village, a Taiwanese one rather than an aboriginal one. Getting there by bus and taxi we walked through the car entrance without paying the steep US$ 15 as they didn't bother explaining in English. We visited a series of typical, historical and traditional houses from various parts of Taiwan which was quite interesting. But the highlight of the day was when we happened on a group of pilgrims belonging to a Buddhist sect under a large canopy. A group of ladies were busy folding lotus flowers and other items out of paper. They showed us how to do it and we joined in for the next few hours. All around us they had stacked lots and lots of this paper artwork (mostly boats with lotus flowers) around an altar of 3 Buddha statues. There were also two 30 ft. boats made of paper too. And everything was going to be burned in a large bonfire ceremony the next day. One of the nice ladies spoke English (she had studied business in the US) and told us a lot about her sect and other aspects of Taiwanese life. Also interesting were the blessings we received from the founder of the sect who took us on a little walk through the paper art work. She had 3 wishes for us: that my parents would continue to love each other as much as now, that we as a family would prosper and that later I would look well after my parents (well there goes my plan to move to Rora Tonga after university...). We said our farewells with our arms full of gifts and soon stood on the side of the road trying to hitch hike back to Changhua (north). After a few cars, a van with a family stopped. They were going south but took us anyways! That's how amazingly helpful and friendly the Taiwanese are. They had to fight a bit of traffic and dropped us off right at the bus station. An hour later we sat in a deluxe bus to Taipei.
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