November 3, 2002, Kaili, China.

We woke to another gloomy morning so our plans to visit the small Miao town of Xijiang, which lies high in the mountains, were out and instead we decided to head straight for Kaili. The paved road had no potholes so we made the trip within 1 hour. There we settled in at one of the largest and nicest hotels we've been in to date. Our room had gigantic windows offering us a fabulous bird's eye view of the main city square. Mummy was happy. To top it off, the central heating was a real welcome from the cold outside. The folk's plans were to base ourselves here for a week to have my tummy checked out at the hospital, to visit some Miao villages and to purchase warm clothes for our upcoming destinations. The city is quite modern, with several large new buildings, and many more being built. We found a nice restaurant for lunch and ordered some special noodle soup. It was good and tasty but halfway through the meal mummy bit into a small chunk of glass! There was no harm done and true to Chinese style she just picked it out and laid it on the table with some comment about it being a new twist on "glass noodles". The manager and waiters however were quite apologetic. After our meal we paid, thanked them, and casually asked them the way to the hospital. We were quickly ushered to a waiting taxi by the manager: we had forgotten to mention it was for me and not because of the glass incident...! And when we returned there a few days later to have dinner we received the most joyous reception from all the waiters and managers. I guess they were really relieved to see that Mommy was still alive!

At the hospital, a very nice lady doctor who spoke a bit of English helped us and I was taken to see the pediatrician. Once again they didn't seem too concerned about my stomach, claiming I would need time to adjust to the food here. I was given some pills to take and I was already feeling a lot better, but this was not enough for the folks and they insisted on having a "sample" done. We were told to return again in 3 days for the results. We spent the rest of the afternoon at a computer store getting our pictures on diskette and the video camera looked at.

The next day was rainy so we spent our time walking through the city checking in on the CITS (China's tourist board). They told us about a minority market in the small town of Huangping and a Lusheng festival in Chong'an. So we decided to leave early the next day with only an overnight bag, aiming to stay a night in Chong'an. As it turned out this was not to be. We caught the early bus to Huangping where we got a chance to catch the weekly market.
The market wasn't that large, but allowed us to have a first good impression of the Miao people and their colourful costumes and headdresses. After eating a quick lunch of dumplings at a tiny food stall, we left for Chong'an (1/2 hr. by bus). When we arrived and saw the main street in a state of just being paved we assumed this was not a town preparing for a Lusheng festival the following day. To make matters worse, the only 2 places to stay in town were the most rundown, dingy places you could find. Mummy was not impressed: she wanted out and wanted out fast! Papa kept teasing that the last bus back may have left and we would have to stay the night. This did not amuse her in the least and
fearing that this might actually be true she packed us out of there and hustled us to the bridge ready to take the first form of transport to anywhere. Fortunately the bus to Kaili arrived and within the next couple of hours we were back in our nice warm clean hotel room.

The next day was Oct. 31st ? Halloween... - and I had nothing to wear! Halloween is not among the many festivals the Chinese celebrate so I knew I was out of luck on the "trick or treat" front. The day was spent looking for warm clothes, having our muddy shoes polished by sidewalk polishers and having our hair cut. This last item was an experience in itself. The folks couldn't believe that 5 Yuan or Can$1 gets you a wash, cut, blow-dry, and a head and ear massage! We created quite the attraction, the 3 of us sitting in barber chairs having our coiffures done. 2 hours later we left the saloon all spruced up... with nowhere to go.

And here I was, - just hours before Halloween night - and I still didn't have an outfit for the evening. Not wanting to miss out on the biggest night in a kid's life, I had mummy dress me up. The result: my sleeping sheet wrapped around me and a scarf on my head. So at 7pm I appeared at our hotel room door shouting "trick or treat" in a blue teddy-bear-printed "sari". Now, last year I was a Cinderella princess complete with a gorgeous gown... this year- a little Indian urchin!! So I ask you...What did I do to deserve this..???..Oh well, so be it - the bag of Oreo cookies and the chocolates were all I was after anyway.
The next day we took the early train to the village of Gulong for the real Miao Lusheng festival. The 2-hour train ride was super comfortable but we still had a long walk to the village from the train station. We walked along with the hundreds of other locals all decked out in their festival finest. It was very colourful. The women and children wearing bright-embroidered skirts and jackets and donning silver neckrings and other types of jewelry.Some had elaborate headdresses with huge horned crowns decorated with delicate silver buds, flowers and coins (at one time these decorations were made of real silver). we reached the town in time to join the
parade of dancers and the many Lusheng players heading to the open fairgrounds. Mummy and Papa were in a flurry of picture and video taking. The streets were really crowded and a few times we lost sight of mom.  But since my papa is tall, sitting on top of his shoulders gave me a top view of all that was going on. The festival grounds were in a walled off area where among the many people there were vendors selling their wares - roasted peanuts, sunflower seeds, drinks and sweets. There were numerous noodle stalls set up with tiny tables and chairs as well. It was at one of these stalls that we ate a quick lunch before working our
way through the crowds to view the Lusheng competitions and dancing. The Lusheng is a bamboo flute-type musical instrument that can range in size from 1 to 6 ft. in length. The dancing that took place was mainly a series of small monotonous steps accompanying the low sounds emitting from the Lusheng flutes. Interesting - but don't expect any MTV releases just yet.
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