With our many bags (one more containing 2 carpets!) we took a Jeep the next morning to our final destination in the eastern Himalayas: Kalimpong, in West Bengal. It used to be at the crossroads of the �three closed lands� (Tibet, Bhutan and Nepal) and today is a quieter hill station than Darjeeling or Gangtok: indeed, at 8 pm everything is closed, including restaurants, as if there was a curfew! While Papa and I ate fresh momos in a caf� near the bus station, Mommy found us a nice room in
the centre of town. What she didn�t know at the time was that there was a circus in town, complete with lions, positioned right next to our hotel. So when late at night we thought it was thundering outside, the lions were actually roaring in their cages!! We had arrived on the day of the large weekly market. We hadn�t been in a market for quite some time, so it was nice to be in that environment again, some of the people being in traditional dress.
Later that afternoon we went to see what I sincerely hoped would be our last Buddhist monastery. In all fairness, this one was not to be missed. Again perched high on a ridge with fantastic 300 degr. views from its rooftop. Next to it was a large field used by the nearby army base, at the end of which I thought the earth would stop (an optical illusion created by the low cloud cover). Thanks to the numerous prayer flags all around the temple, it made for a very scenic spectacle. It was also quite fun to see a bunch of monks in their maroon robes play a game of volleyball.
The next day we went on a stroll through the quiet streets looking for an active Bhutanese monastery (�Ah, excusez-moi, guys, but didn�t you say that yesterday was the last one�?). Popping into a Tibetan supply shop my parents bought me a Tibetan dress, prayer beads and a prayer wheel!  I just can�t wait for next Halloween!   I also got my bangs trimmed by a Chinese hairdresser and then we were off to the circus� (shows at 11, 2 and 5 pm, lasting 3 hours). We sat on the front row in a large circus tent and we saw all the typical acts you would expect in a circus, only with an Indian style. The clowns were my favourite, especially their barber act. I liked the trapeze acrobats and the elephants. My parents though, pitied them and the other animals (eg. the dogs and ponies). There was a strong lady lifting weights and another one firing a gun. There were stunts on bicycles, motorbikes in a steel globe and human pyramids.  The mc was very hard to understand (he spoke mostly Hindi) and the vendors of ice cream and snacks were very insistent. I certainly had a grand time.

June 2nd was the day of our train to New Delhi, so we boarded a bus to Siliguri. While driving out of the Himalayas along a river we saw lots monkey families on the road, as we had seen during previous trips. In a way I was glad to leave the area for sunnier ones, because we did have mostly cloudy or rainy days. But then again I was reluctantly leaving the cool temperatures and as soon as we hit the plains the heat of summer in India engulfed me once again. We had too much luggage to carry it all by ourselves so at the station we got help from a coolie who must have balanced at least a 50 kg. on his head�He could easily have gotten a job at the circus!   We had to wait quite a few hours, but finally the Radjhani Express from Assam to Delhi arrived, stopping for only a few minutes, enough for us to board. We got a compartment with 3 other foreigners and settled in for a 20-hour trip. This train was all air-conditioned and our meals, tea and snacks were included in the fare, so meant for the more upscale traveler. I felt quite comfortable with our fellow passengers and ended up having some animated discussions with them. And so the time flew by. We arrived the next morning at New Delhi station and were hit again by the heat AND the large crowds. With the help of a coolie (they flood the coach before it even comes to a halt) we got to the taxi stand and Papa managed to negotiate a reasonable fare by auto-rickshaw to the YMCA. Boy was it hot!! Driving through town like that it felt more like being inside a hairdryer� OK, it was dry heat, but still, 45 C was not easy for me.

The YM turned out to be too expensive so we headed to the nearby YWCA. There we got a basic a/c room for US$ 26, incl. breakfast (still not cheap�). We ended up staying in Delhi for a few days and the heat didn�t relent: the following days were between 46 and 48 C!! In all fairness I just couldn�t stay outside for more than an hour at the most. So my days were spent between the room and the attached modern restaurant called  �Ten�.  An appropriate name as this place was truly fantastic. (this actually turned out to be practically the only restaurant we ate at in New Delhi}.  The menu was somewhat limited but with Indian, Mexican, Greek and western dishes but everything the cook made was delicious. All for just $ 2-4 per dish (very inexpensive�). Mommy went on a couple of errands to get her films processed and Papa went to get train tickets at the station. Laundry was easy as it dried on our balcony in only 1 or 2 hours. Oh, and I got an ice cream cone at Nirula�s.
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