February 16, 2003, Siem Reap, Cambodia.




Out of the frying pan and into the fire... so to speak. We arrived in the Kingdom of Cambodia at Siem Reap International airport late afternoon Feb 8th. And after retrieving our luggage we hopped in a taxi that shuffled us around from hotel to hotel before mummy finally found the perfect one.... Our new lodgings for the week were called Smiley, a guesthouse for backpackers, but one that looked more like a small hotel. We had a big bright room with hot water shower, a good restaurant, a garden courtyard, a table tennis table and a small girl of 4 with a spanking new bicycle, and big yellow happy face signs hanging everywhere... I just knew on first sighting that I was going to like it there - first sighting of the bike that is... After settling in we walked around the area and found another swanky hotel, this one with a beautiful palm tree setting around a garden pool. The US$ 35 /night price wasn't justified especially since we had a nice room for $10. We were however allowed the use of the pool and facilities for $3 per person each day. Since it was only a 2 min. walk from our place, we spent almost everyday there -like our hotel sign said, I was happy - I suppose this gave me the best of both worlds.

But we were in Siem Reap for one thing and one thing only - visiting the famous Angkor Wat temples. These marvelous temples were built by kings as religious and administration centres between the 9th and 15th centuries. Most of the temples are in ruins but a fair number have been restored to a state that allows for great visits. But the weather was very hot and dry with temperatures ranging in the mid 30's, so there was no way I wanted to walk around a bunch of fallen rocks in the heat of the day. My parents were wise enough to find an international school for me, where they promptly registered me for 3 days, 8 am ? 4 pm (US$ 13/day). After first being told they did not provide this service they then made an exception for me (perhaps it was the angelic face I put on?... nah.... It was most likely the 'please-we-need-a-break' look my parents had). I got a preview of the school and met the teachers and my fellow classmates. Most of them were foreign kids whose families were living here for business. So later when my folks went temple hopping, I got to have fun with schoolwork, writing, drawings, math, reading and songs. And by the 3rd day I had produced some great valentine day cards for my parents. Being a small school the classes were small as well: there were only 10 boys and girls in my class. My buddy turned out to be a young guy from France and with him I got to try out my French, though everyone else spoke English there. As a matter of fact, like Laos, we've found that almost all people here speak some English. So it made learning the language unnecessary. It felt really good to be back in school: the large enclosed grounds with swings, a couple of outdoor jungle gyms, classes and kids! And each night while I explained what I learnt, my parents would relate to me the highlights of their day scrambling on the old ruins... Somehow I think I got the better of the deal...

Our days would start bright and early with papa?s alarm beeping at 6am. Then after dressing, a quick breakfast at the hotel restaurant while I ordered my lunch of baguette sandwich with scrambled eggs, tomato, and cucumber - pretty good. I packed this with some cookies and fruit for snack and a bottle of cold water in my cooler lunch bag... I was ready! What a wonderful feeling: the first day of school.... and knowing that the last day of school and vacation was just 2 days away! Our prearranged Tuk Tuk would arrive to pick us up at 7:30 to take us the few km. for the 8 am start. After dropping me off, my parents would have the Tuk Tuk for the day to drive them around the various temple sites - the drivers had it easy, because after dropping their passengers off, they would find a nice comfortable spot under a tree to take a nap. Mummy said that some of them even had attached hammocks in their Tuk Tuks for just that purpose! There were also bike taxis: kami-kase type guys on motorbikes who would shuttle single or double passengers around for the day as well. Great system they have. The cost for the day ranged from  $6 to $ 10 depending on which form of transport you wanted, or how fast you wanted to get around.

The first day the folks started their tour with Angkor Wat proper, the largest of the monuments with the distinction of being the largest temple in the world. I had a chance to see this one too as we went there just for a sunset view the day we obtained our photo passes (US$ 40 for 3 days). The whole Angkor complex really consists of more than 100 old monuments spread over a large 400 sq. km. area. We crossed over the wide moat by a walkway and went through an impressive exterior wall that surrounds the grounds. One could only begin to imagine what the place had looked like during the old days. The temple itself has 3 levels with a central tower area, on the sidewalls of which are beautiful stone carvings (bas-reliefs) depicting the stories of Hindu and Buddhist mythology. Originally the temples were built for Hindu worship but later were taken over by the Buddhist worshippers. All along the various walls were beautiful carvings and sculptures of dancers called "Apsaras". I enjoyed my first visit there that evening, but most memorable of all must have been the many vendors with their trinkets and goods for sale. They were located to the side of the monuments, so fortunately not obstructing anyone?s full view. My parents would disagree with me on this account, as they seemed more fascinated by the sculptures and buildings and Papa by climbing up and down the very steep staircases of the center temple. Personally I couldn't see the sense in them returning the next morning... but that they did ... ?to get a more detailed view?, they said. Well I suppose it is one of the 7 man-made wonders of the world and who knows... perhaps when I reach their age I may be tempted to return one day... but for now I can just relate to you some of what they tried to enlighten me on the various temples each day.   

After spending the whole next morning visiting Angkor Wat again, they woke up their driver and it was off too see Angkor Thom, another walled in city with a moat. The gate entering the complex had to be one of the most remarkable with its 4 huge Angkorian faces staring at you. They lunched on fried rice and noodles at one of the many food stalls across from a temple and were entertained just watching by the various food vendors yelling out to each new tourist that came by "come have lunch here... I know your driver!" - most of the time this tactic actually worked. After lunch they went to a monastic complex of Preah Khan. This place was a photographer?s garden with lots of carvings, fallen rocks, and more ruins all amidst large lush trees and their roots. After that it was the Bayon temple, which my folks thought to be one of their favorites. This temple had a complex system of towers at various levels all with their 4 sides bearing giant stone heads of the king who built it. It didn't look like much from the outside but as you entered you became in awe of the beauty and magnitude of the many faces, some quite well preserved. After this the folks returned to pick me up at 4:30 pm. They looked a bit tired but glad to see me. So we all had a nice dinner and off to bed early, as there was school the next day.
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