December 21, 2002, Dali, China
After spending most of the morning checking out some stuff we left for the Lijiang bus station (see me with Oma and all our stuff...?) for the 2 1/2 hr. bus-ride south to Dali. We passed through mountains and fields and arrived at a flat valley next to a large lake. As soon as we were dropped off on the main road I knew that this was going to be my kind of city, because we promptly hopped on a horse cart and clip-clopped our way down cobblestone paths to the old section of town.

Judging by the many stores selling handi-crafts and trinkets we could see it was a tourist town but yet it didn't seem as
touristy as Lijiang. This was my Papa's second time visiting Dali and once again he claims it has changed a lot in the 15 years that he wandered these paths. The first night we stayed at one of the guesthouses recommended by our LP guide book and a few travelers we had met - The # 5 Guesthouse - but of course Mommy had to check and see what # 1 through
# 4 had to offer - nothing much, she claimed. Still, the next morning we moved to a much cleaner and new Korean guesthouse ("Koreana") in the heart of the town. The fact that # 5 had a great garden, fish pond, and a ping pong table in the courtyard was not a seller for her to stay put - I of course had no say in the matter.... Anyway, I enjoyed the short overnight stay there, playing my own version of ping-pong and catch with Oma. It's nice that my Oma came to visit us. I now have someone who understands the fundamentals of what I need ....... spoiling! The new place was really a lot nicer, cleaner and it had a heater and electric blankets as well. But true to Korean style the beds were also harder and one Oma was not used to. But after stacking up a few soft cushions, Oma ended up with a very high, but soft princess bed.
We wandered around town that first afternoon to get our bearings and the next morning took a bus to the local Monday morning market. The place was full with Bai and a few Yi ladies in traditional colourful costume. It was a nice market and Oma's first real country village market. She really enjoyed it and I think the local souvenir vendors were very happy to have her there as well. We left with pics and a few odd trinkets. The next few days were cloudy and cold so we spent the time hanging around town. I got to do more schoolwork with Papa while Mummy checked on internet services and Oma went shopping.

A couple of days later on a cloudy cold afternoon the folks decided to head down to Erhai Lake after lunch. This was Oma's first lunch at a real Chinese joint and she found it quite amusing the way my folks order food in these places - I am of course quite used to it: a lot of gesturing and pointing and then waiting... with baited breath to see what actually arrives! The food turned out to be fine and quite tasty as well. So after lunch we started walking towards the lake, passing the many large modern walled-in homes. Soon it became apparent that the lake was further than first thought so once again we
flagged down one of the small horse carts. With me riding in front with the driver, we clip-clopped our way through rice and vegetable fields towards the lake. Erhai is a beautiful lake surrounded by large hills and farm fields. At the docks were a few tourist boats ready to take us across to a village on the other side. Papa negotiated hard with them and finally we boarded a boat with 2 other ladies. Papa later found out just how good his bargaining was as we actually got a much better price than the locals! It was a nice 20 min. crossing but we still weren't sure where the boat was really going. Finally we stopped in the cove of a small island and strolled through small, earth-laden streets, taking in the rustic beauty of the small village homes. We also visited a small temple where a group of older people was gathered around a warming fire. On our way back by boat we stopped at a peninsula with a very scenic pagoda (containing large statues of Caesar, Jesus and Confucius), where we spent another 1/2 hour before making our way back across the choppy lake.

The next day, after my schoolwork was completed, and after a lunch of noodles and dumplings at the local market, we had decided on a horse trek that would take us high up the mountain behind Dali.  The weather was cooperating with a sunny/cloudy mix. Now I should mention, that reaching the temple Zhonghe Si, halfway to the top of this mountain, could easily be done via a cable chair (similar to ski lifts). But no ... the folks decided that would be just too practical and opted for the hard way! We found four horses - one for each of us and I of course had to accompany the guide who sometimes decided to ride with me. We slowly zigzagged our way up the very steep slopes, through the local cemetery (weaving our way among the huge gravestones) and through a beautiful pine forest. An hour later we arrived at the gate of the temple and after a quick visit we decided to do the 1/2-hour hike along a nice path to a waterfall. The easy walkway took us along the edge of the mountain with lush forest on one side and breathtaking views of the valley below on the other. It was a good thing the walk itself was so breathtakingly beautiful because the waterfall turned out to be little more than a trickle! The horse ride down though proved to be more of a challenge on these vertical cliffs - especially when the usually tame horses decided to gallop down...! My guide walked my horse down so I was not scared, but my parents and Oma were turning a bit pale...

Dinner that night was at a place called Jack's. Mummy was quite excited when she glanced at the menu as there was a dish called "Pakistan Chili Chicken". Thinking it was the famous "Chicken Tika", she wasted no time in ordering it..... A big disappointment - she said the only thing Pakistani about that dish was that perhaps the ceramic plate it was served on, was made THERE instead of CHINA! To top it off the next morning we found out that Oma was sick all night from the Indonesian rice she had eaten at the same place... or was it the massage she got that evening...?
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