April 9, 2003, Ella, Sri Lanka.
The following day we left our beach hotel and headed inland, where the scenery changed from the beautiful coast to fertile vegetable farms and tea plantations. We made a lot of stops for picture taking and got to see lots of Tamil ladies picking tealeaves at the many plantations along the way. We arrived in a town and checked out a few different hotels before deciding on one in town. A nice dinner and to sleep we went as we were going 'big game' (elephant) hunting the next day... Bright and early the next morning with our bags packed we left for the
safari park of Uda Walawe. Before arriving at the ranger station we stopped to hire a 4x4 Landrover and driver. Raja stayed with the van and our luggage. We arrived at the park entrance, bought our tickets and hired the compulsory tracker - he is the one who is supposed to spot the wild elephants for us - personally I could not understand why we needed a spotter as I was pretty sure I knew what to look for ...! Anyway, he turned out to earn his keep and we got to see a lot of other smaller animals and birds as well. But it was the elephants that were the most amazing to watch. Large and smaller herds, some with tiny babies, were walking around in their natural habitat. Having never been on a safari (African Lion Safari in Ontario does not count), my parents were thrilled with the idea � each shooting off loads of film and video footage (Mr. Sony and Mr. Fuji would be proud). For me it was just as exciting as well. But I'm beginning to think it wouldn't surprise me in the least if we were rerouted through Africa next! Some of the other animals we saw were jackals, peacocks, parrots, langur monkeys, eagles, hornbills and large prehistoric looking monitor lizards.
After the safari, we stopped for lunch before heading back towards the coast and a small town on the east. Our aim was to see the giant sea turtles come ashore near there to lay eggs. We arrived in Tangalle and set about finding a place to stay. This always seemed to take a while to find 'just the right lodging' and after visiting a few beachfront guesthouses, we settled in at a unique place. Individual cabanas set out in a beautiful garden with a swimming pool. All quite routine, except that the really nice thing about this particular place was our cabin. Made completely of stone, it resembled the Flintstone house! Even the bed and the night tables were of the rough-cut stone. And the lamps and fixtures were of seashells. For 24 hours we were the �Flintstone� family: Fred, Wilma and me, Pebbles. The 'Rubbles' were next door. It was fun. The beach too was amazing � wide, clean, surf to play in... Mummy was a bit nervous for me at first but then joined us and was hooked! To top it off we had the most beautiful rainbow appear on the horizon after the short rain shower. An early dinner at the hotel, and off we went to see the turtles.
It was already 8pm and dark. The female turtles arrive at night, traveling great distances to return to their beach to lay eggs. The whole process of clambering up the beach takes time. We arrived and settled in on the beach in pitch darkness. There were a few other people watching and waiting as well. We were told to wear dark colours and carry no flashlights or camera flashes. The Turtle Conservation Project had a few people on hand to check and spot the turtles while keeping the curious like us in check as well. We were lucky, as one was spotted but she ended up turning around and going back to sea � a failed attempt - perhaps not quite ready or was scared off. Nevertheless we were assured she would return again. We took our place in the sand once more and just lay there looking up at the stars.... A really beautiful night - warm breeze blowing with the sound of the surf in the background. I ended up falling asleep (turtles are very slow!), but finally an hour or so later another turtle was on its way...... this time we got to witness the whole slow process of clambering up the beach, digging the hole and we watched close up the laying of eggs. There were 160 count! The giant 3ft. turtle didn't seem to mind having us around or even when touching her rough skin (she was a bit preoccupied, I guess). As she was laying the ping-pong ball size eggs, a couple of the men were gently removing, counting and placing them in a sack to re-locate to a safer place (birds, dogs, and other animals are natural predators of these remarkably soft-cased eggs).
Early the next morning we left once again for the highlands, this time stopping along the way at a curd-selling stall (the yogurt I mentioned earlier, is made and sold in unusual earthenware containers and is found everywhere). Made of buffalo milk, it is stored and set in the shade. This area seemed to have a lot and the displays set out along the side of the road made for some nice shots for mom. We were also stopped by the police at a road checkpoint and our driver Raja's license was taken away! Not because he was speeding (unlike some of the others on the road, he was a good driver), but because his license had expired! Fortunately we were still allowed to continue and he had to return to pick up his papers the next day. This all worked out fine in
the end, as the next day we took a small mountain train from Ella to Badulla, where we saw a Hindu temple (actually Papa and Papy went in while us girls decided to pass and just hang around the small town). I was beginning to be templed out... We had just enough time to visit one of the most scenic waterfalls before catching our train back - or so we thought. Took a rickshaw (Tuk tuk) to the falls and had to walk up and down some steep rocks and hills for a good 30 min. to finally see the falls. Yes it was scenic: a high drop of 60 meters. We could only stay a short time before making our way back to our rickshaw and to the station. Reaching the station just in time only to find out the train was cancelled! We returned back via a local and very crowded bus. Later that afternoon, we visited another Hindu temple and then an Ayurveda treatment center (Ayurveda is an ancient system of medicine that uses natural oils and herbs to heal). It was back to our hotel for another dinner where we met up with a French journalist who was updating a Michelin guide (nice job, mom figured).
Next day bright and early we left with the same train for Nuwara Elyia, the number one hill station in the country. We traveled through beautiful mountain scenery with lots of tunnels and fields and fields of lush tea plantations, fruit and vegetable farms. The others also got a chance to visit a working tea plantation and view the whole process from fields to processing and packaging and tasting. Where was I you ask? Why, in the air con car - fast asleep! (traveling is a tiring business). We visited a colonial English hunting club with the typical beautifully manicured lawns. We were sitting in the old library in most likely the same deep leather armchairs where Churchill and his buddies sat while chatting about the state of the union at that time. Scattered around the large estate were remnants of the hunted � trophies of heads adorned the walls above the many old photos. I even saw a real elephant foot shamelessly used as an umbrella stand! The poor elephant! Definitely not for me.... but what was a delight was the pastry shop next door. There we sampled some of the tasty sweet and savory puffed pastries. I had my first chocolate donut in what seemed like ages.... and sprinkles or not it was pure heaven! A couple of hours later we arrived in Kandy.
