| Key Points * With all glamour colour, the objective is to lift, curve and brighten the appearance of your features. * You accomplish this by having all glamour shades (eye, cheek and lip) fade from dark to light, from the outside of your face in. The simple steps below show you how easy it is! |
| Glamour Techniques by John Maxwell |
| Learning the Face A. Highlighting after Day Radiance: ....1. Establishes points of contrast to better display your features and glamour colours. ....2. "Three point highlighting" - Place a dot of colour (Crystalline Eye Colour/ Vanilla Eyecicles): ...a. above the arch, towards the end of the brow ........b. On top of the cheekbone ........c. On the chin NOTE: Darker-skinned women may want to use a Radiance shade in the ivory color family for highlighting. Also, highlighting on either side of the nose below the iris adds contour for darker skin. ....3. Blend highlighter by patting it in a circle to create "sunbursts" of brightness. |
| B. Eyes ....1. Observe: ........a. How much eyelid shows ........b. If the crease can be seen ........c. How heavy the eye tissue is on the browbone NOTE: 80 percent of the population can see the eyelid, the crease, and they do not have heavy eye tissue, therefore, they do not need any special correction techniques. However. . . --Deep set eyes take the colour higher, toward the brow. --Hooded eyes concentrate stronger colour toward the end of the eye. Overall, the objective with eye shadow is to have the colours fade from strong to weak, from the outside in. ....2. The three parts of the eye: ........a. Close to the nose--This is the darkest part of the eye, so do not make it darker with shadow. ........b. Middle of the eye--This is the roundest part of the eye, so colour should keeep this area curved. ........c. End of the eye--This is the heaviest part, so adding more lift by concentrating colour here is desirable. |
C. Cheeks ....1. Cheek colour affects the center area of the face. ....2. The condition of the center area is: ........a. The nose is the most prominent feature. ........b. Pore size is the largest in this area. ........c. Secondary tones of the face are more prominent here, so most concealing is done in this area. ....3. To counteract the appearance of the above conditions: ........a. Cheek colour must appear softer (muted) closer to the nose. ........b. Apply by starting at the upper, outer end of the cheekbone and fading the colour down the cheekbone toward the nose. ........c. Cheek colour (rouge or blusher) should never be wiped or rubbed on the face. Rouge or cream cheek colour should be patted with fingers in a circle so the colour fades naturally leaving no noticeable lines. ........d. Blusher should be gently blended with a blusher brush. |
| D. Lips Enhance the appearance of your mouth by using lip liner pencils to shape the lips, and an Intensity Controller color enhancer to create subtle illusions of improved size and shape. ....1. Shape with a lip liner pencil from the inside of the lip out. ........a. On the lower lip, draw a line on the center of the lip; then draw a line to each corner. ........b. On the upper lip, start with a bow (a v-shaped line) in the center and pencil down to each corner. ........c. Use short, soft strokes to control the pencil. ........d. Use lip liner pencil to hold lip colour by partially filling in the lip. Use a thicker pencil line to avoid lip colour bleeding. ....2. Use the Intensity Controller lip colour enhancer to control the intensity of the lip colour. ........a. To start out with a minimal amount of colour, use Intensity Controller first, then add colour until you reach the desired shade. ........b. To soften a colour that is too bright or dark, use Intensity Controller after lip colour until you reach the desired intensity. ........c. To add contour, apply lip colour to corners of mouth leaving center open. Then add Intensity Controller to the center of the lip and blend. |