Patterns


So you know how to make period mesh, you know how to darn it in period style. What comes next? A decorative pattern, of course! If you can count, you can read a lacis pattern. The system for reading a lacis pattern is essentially the same for reading a cross-stitch pattern: find a starting point, and count grids from that point to know where and how many stitches to do.

What stitches do you use? Well, most period patterns look like this:

They don't really give you too much imput as to what stitches go where. You get to make the decisions, and satisfy your own taste in the matter. You could do it all in darning or cloth stitch, and it would look like this:

Or you could do some cloth and some interlock stitches, like this:


or:



Now it becomes a matter of tastes and time, rather than a lockstep obedience to a pattern.

Where do you find patterns? Probably the first place to look is period pattern books. Vinciolo wrote, "Les Singulairs et Nouveaux Portraicts" in 1587; this seems to be the starting point for most people in search of period patterns. It is still in print, under the name, "Renaissance Patterns for Lace and Embroidery." There are other period lace designers still in print, such as Pierre et Sainct Louie and Claude Nourry.

Finding other sources for patterns is easier than you might imagine. This is the point at which graph paper will become your friend; it is absolutely essential to pattern making. The graph paper lets you draw a translation of a pattern, or try out the various combinations of stitches, before you've made a commitment on the stretched lace. If you're a skilled draftsman, then you can draw your own patterns directly to graph paper.

Anything done in a grid -- or that can be translated onto a grid -- is fodder for your pattern book. Count cross stitch patterns and needlepoint patterns are obvious sources. What about counted threadwork patterns? They can be translated with a little care. This pattern from a period embroidery book...

...can be made into this lacis pattern:

There is reason to believe that such translation from embroidery to lace and back again were done in period.

One secret, unperiod trick I've used to create grids of complex patterns involves a computer. Carry an image onto the Paint program on your computer. Zoom in, and activate "Show grid." Voila! Your picture is gridded. A screen capture will allow you to save and print the grid.

Gridded picture. Click on image for an enlargement



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