
Forget about SARs, TVB serial, HK movies, Tong Chee Hwa vs demonstrators, ku-wah-zai, corruption, porn and prostitutes. HK is too complex a society to be studied simply. But everything found in HK is a symbolism of HK.
6 months looks sufficient to cover every single corners and conquer every heights. Well effectively, remove the 5 days at work every week, I didn't have much time to do a thorough exploration. But all these are good enough to make deep imprints of HK in my memory. Those were the best 6 months in my life!
1. Central
Central became my favourite spot in HK, even before I witnessed it for myself. It is the most 'advertised' region in TV serial and tourism commercials. Commercial buildings, banks, government house, high-end shopping malls, pubs, transportation hubs are all packed into this tiny district, making the narrow streets even more difficult for vehicular and human traffic to flow. On Sundays and public holidays, Central will be transformed into a market for foreigners.
I often hanged out here to catch trains and ferries, work out in the gym, watch time go by at the mid-levels, or listen to the latest release at HMV. At night, I would board bus 40M back to Pokfulum and observe Lan Kwai Fong become a haven for rich expatriates, local clubbers and celebrities. Fans of Wong Kar Wai's Chung King Express might recognize shooting sets at the mid-level escalator, California's and Midnight Express. A stroll down the mid-levels and SOHO can be indulging on Sunday afternoons.
Central becomes seductive at night, as viewed from the Victoria Peak.
2. Spectacular harbour view
No trip to HK is complete with memories of the harbour view. Be on the promenade at Tsim Sha Tsui (TST) to see the unique picturesque view of skyscrapers against the mountain range. Viewing the spectacular sceneries become even more enjoyable at night with welcoming breezes on a cheap ferry ride (HKD$1.70 and HKD$2.20 for lower and upper deck respectively). Towards the end of the IA, such rides became more nostalgic and thought-provoking.
On the converse, the view of Tsim Sha Tsui from Central is less appealing.
3. Shopping in HK (at night)
From my vague recall, HK was probably touted as the city that never sleeps. As activities in the CBD in Central and Admiralty come to a halt, a new life is reborn in Wan Chai, Causeway Bay, TST and Mong Kok. Catch legal vendors selling cheap VCDs, roadside stall owners displaying oily snacks, mobile money-makers with pirated release and cute accessories.
Besides familiar brand names like Esprit, U2, G2000, Bossini, etc, there are numerous obscure small shops in the shopping belts making bold fashion statements. Esprit warehouses in Causeway Bay and TST make clothes browsing a tiring yet enjoyable affair. Off-season sales guarantee good buys at heavily-slashed prices.
4. Wilderness in country parks, parks and trails
HK is a hilly country. Much land space on is a result of reclamation. However, the riches have established households on hilltops and slopes on the HK island, to make more phenomenon sights for tourists' photographs. In the peninsular, people are visiting the mountains for trekking purposes or reaching out to the wilderness.
Some country parks that I have been
Victoria Peak, HK
Pokfulam Country Park, Pokfulam, HK
Aberdeen Country Park, Aberdeen, HK
Tai Tam Country Park, South HK
Lion Rock Country Park, KLN
Tai Mo Shan Country Park, NT
Sai Kung West Country Park, NT
- Sai Kung East Country Park, NT
Some rural walk
Kam Tin to Lam Tsuen Valley, NT
Bride's Pool to Tai Mei Tuk, Plover Cove Country Park, NT
Some urban parks
Hong Kong Park, Central, HK
Fung Tak Park, Wong Tai Sin, KLN
5. Beaches and waves
Enough of heights? Hit for the sand, sea and strong waves. Beaches are equipped with boundary lines, constant safety reminders, tanned lifeguards, equally sandy facilities and people; and the more established beaches are beautified with uptown buildings. At the right season, waves in some beaches can be strong enough for the surf boards. Wild beaches in Sai Kung East are not quite accessible and void of amenities but the long walk through is rewarded with extremely beautiful sceneries and great waters.
Some visited beaches
Repulse Bay, South HK
Stanley Bay, South HK
Shek O Wan, Shek O, HK
Big Wave Bay, Shek O, HK
Clear Water Bay, KLN
Tai Long Sai Wan, Sai Kung East, NT
6. Museums
Museum visits are either very affordable or totally free. Artifact descriptions are vivid with use of AVs and multimedia, and the furnishings are top-class. If you feel an information overload (which is quite often the case), free brochures and comprehensive websites act as revision notes for your visits.
Some visited museums
Hong Kong Museum of Coastal Defence, Shau Kei Wan, East HK
Law Uk Folk Museum, Chai Wan, East HK
Hong Kong Museum of Medical Sciences, Mid-Levels, HK
Hong Kong Racing Museum, Happy Valley, HK
Hong Kong Visual Arts Center, Central, HK
Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware, Central, HK
Hong Kong Museum of History, TST, KLN
Lei Cheung Uk Han Tomb, Sham Shui Po, KLN
- Hong Kong Airport Core Programme, Tin Kau, NT
Hong Kong Railway Museum, Tai Po, NT
Sam Tung Uk Museum, Tsuen Wan, NT
7. Heritage trails
They made up the most enriching period of the 6 months in HK. Visit beautiful restored ancient houses that remain over decades in the developing new towns. You can enter the artifacts, read their stories and feel the atmosphere of the lost old times.
Ping Shan Heritage Trail, West NT
Tai Fu Tai Mansion and Man Lun Fung Ancestral Hall, West NT
Lung Yuek Tau Heritage Trail, East NT
8. Outlying islands
Another highlight to a weekend outing. Outlying islands of HK reflect a different perspective to life. Fishing villages, shophouses, empty trails, seafood delicacies and hot snacks are enough to make one come again. Catch ferry rides at the correct time to avoid long waits and steep costs.
Visited islands
- Lamma Island
- Cheung Chau Island
- Peng Chau Island
- Tai O, Lantau Island
9. Temples
Many of these places of worship are regions of air pollution from profuse joss-sticks burning. Non-worshippers can visit them for photo-taking. The Big Buddha on Lantau Island is a sheer attraction, one visit is coupled with sumptuous vegetarian servings. The 10000 Buddha Pagoda displays arahants and Dharmic quotes throughout its grounds, and Chi Lin is the most serene location for meditation.
Visited temples
Po Lin Monastery, Lantau Island
Wong Tai Sin Temple, KLN
10000 Buddha Pagoda, Shatin, NT
Chi Lin Nunnery, KLN
Yuen Yuen Institute, Tsuen Wan, NT
Western Monastery, Tsuen Wan, NT
10. Transportation
Anyone who has been to HK will agree undeniably that its transport fees is ridiculously steep, except for the older leisurely methods via trams and cross-harbour ferries. But MTRC and KCRC provide speedy trains across long distances. Bus companies compete for commuters with efficient services (yes, they are fast) and short waiting time. Mini-buses are the best, with even speedier and bar-clinging rides especially at 3am. But you need to shout to the driver in Cantonese at where you want to alight. The braking skill of most drivers is excellent.
11. Food and desserts
Cha-chan-teng offer oily food from roast meat to all kinds of noodles. Each decent meal can cost HKD$20-30, but the serving is generous. Hot complimentary tea is poured into seemingly unwashed transparent plastic cups. Yum-cha can be done occasionally, as the delicacies can be very filling and taxing on the pockets.
For the sweet tooth, coffee chains and cafes are out. Go for dessert shops that sell thick mango drinks, almond paste, black sesame paste, fruit cocktail with sago, egg custards amongst a wide variety of after-meal savour.
12. Entertainment
Movie-viewing is expensive. Try Cantonese plays, Chinese opera, dance theatres, jazz music and canto pop for real cultural experiences from local artistes and foreign imports. HK Dance Company produces top-class quality dance dramas with impressive stage lightings, set designs and choreography.
HK is well known for its free press journalism. Disorderly, bold and sometimes non-sensical are the most appropriate descriptions from me. Non-porn magazines are expressive with pictures of cosmetic products, street apparels, food guide, and young models. For youngsters, Touch and Milk are the more vibrant examples. Tabloid magazines can be fairly interesting reads on sleazy town activities, hidden underworld relations, juicy celebrity gossips.
KTV is a must for die-hard pop song fans. Overnight sessions are available to sing your hearts out. Most titles are canto pop. Neway, California Red, Energy are the strong players in this industry.
Further readings
1. Excellent resources to HK museums, country parks, libraries, etc
Leisure & Cultural Services Department
2. Know more juicy information on Hong Kong Streets
3. The most basic guide
4. Hong Kong Overseas Industrial Attachment- explains why I was in HK for so long
another global travel project to HK with contents, photographs, layout and design by the jade craft in Jul 2003