Lake Akan and Kussharo

After passing through the Daisetsuzan National Park and Lake Nukabira, we headed east towards Lake Akan and Lake Kussharo via Ashoro. We camped at Ashoro on Day 5. The following day, taking Route 241 out of Ashoro to the Akan National Park, we rode in a windless valley with the air temperature reaching 35C. Riding a little less than one metre off superheated asphalt, we felt we were being roasted alive in an oven. The ride wasn't that tough with only a long, but gradual climb to foot of Mt Me-Akan, but the heat really got to both of us. If any of you hear your Japanese colleagues mention that Hokkaido is cool in summer, don't believe them. It can be just as hot and humid as anywhere else in Japan!

We stayed overnight at a youth hostel at the foot of Mt Me-Akan with the intention of climbing it the following day. However, the mountain was closed to hikers due to poisonous gas being emitted by the active volcano. In hindsight, we should have just pushed on to Lake Akan and the campsite there. Instead, we set off early on Day 6, did a really short 25km ride to the next campsite, pitched our tents and then decided that we still wanted to climb a mountain. We headed off to climb Mt O-Akan, but due to our late start, we only got to stage five (about 70% of the way up) before we turned back, so we would have enough light to make the return trip. The campsite at Lake Akan was quite nice and right next to the town, Akan, so we were able to avail ourselves of the opportunity to soak in a nice hot onsen (hot spring) after our little hike up Mt O-Akan. It was nice trail, so for you keep hikers out there, it's worthwhile mountain to climb.

The following morning, beginning at around 2am and lasting until 5am, was the tremendous thunderstorm mentioned earlier. We felt so lucky to be alive. Until you have actually been outside, in a tent under a forest of trees with lightning all around you, then you haven't experienced fear. I think now I sort of know how soldiers under artillery bombardment feel.

Day 8 saw us heading out of Lake Akan, over the hump and down over to Lake Kussharo. In my humble opinion, I think Lake Kussharo is probably one of the most beautiful lakes in Japan. The water is crystal clear and on all sides, it is surrounded by forested hills and mountains. We camped right on the shore of Lake Kussharo, the most scenic and idyllic campsite of the whole tour. If we didn't have to push on, it would have been nice to spend another day there to soak up the atmosphere or take a short day ride up to Lake Mashu, reportedly known to the local indigenous people, the Ainus, as the Lake of the Gods.

Mt Me-Akan (left peak) and Mt Akan-Fuji (right peak). This picture was taken on Route 241, in the hot and windless valley from Ashoro to Akan National Park. Don't let the clouds fool you, it was a scorcher of a day to be out cycling.

The two of us at the entrance to Akan National Park. By this point, Chris was pretty overheated. "So, how much further to go, Raymond and who ever told us that Hokkaido is cool in summer?!" Well, despite the grin (or is that a grimace?) on my face, I was feeling the heat, too.

Dinner at our Lake Akan campsite. This shot is pretty typical of our usual set up for dinner. Some rice or pasta with a bit of ham or a couple of boiled eggs and a banana or two, all washed down with a nice cup of hot tea or coffee. It was the bare bone basics, just calories, but it kept us going.

This is, without a doubt, the most memorable campsite of the whole tour. We pitched our tents right on the shore of Lake Kussharo. What more can one ask for when you wake up to a view like the one below.

What view to wake up to!! This photo was taken at around 5:30 in the morning and our tents were about 200 metres down the beach from where this photo was taken. Lake Akan is on the other side of those mountains in the background.

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