Force Fetch
Force fetch is a program used to develop a dog into a reliable retriever, ideally 100% of the time.  I do not apoligize for the use of force in my training program.  I actually believe it is unfair to train an animal to do a high level of retrieve work and not give them the proper foundation to do it successfully.  I believe the fairest way to train a good retriever is to give them the tools necessary to do the work correctly.  A good force fetch program sets the foundation skills necessary to do good retriever work.  Do not think that Force Fetch is a Hold, Ear Pinch or Toe Hitch exclusive funtion either.  Force Fetch is an entire program from the beginning stages of Hold work through Force to Pile, Swim By and the basic handling drills such as Double T.  Do not teach your dog Hold and  Ear Pinch and then a year later come back and expect to do Force to Pile or Collar Conditioning.  I believe if you choose to do the Force program of training the only fair thing to do is to do the complete program and leave no holes.  Do not begin Hold and Ear Pinch if you do not intend to continue with the next logical steps in the Force Fetch program.  I believe in particular this is unfair for a poodle.  Force is difficult enough for this very intelligent  breed.  It is completely out of line to chop the process up and do a half "acceptable" job.  If you choose a Force method, complete the process through all the logical steps and progressions of it.  Do your homework and never blame the dog for your own failures.  The Lardy Methods have worked very well for myself with an expanded emphasis on Hold and the ear pinch objects used for retrieving.  I also use less intense levels of collar correction and lengthen the amount of time for collar conditioning.

I hunt with my dogs and in my view it is their jobs to do the retrieving portion of the hunting.  There is no asking if they feel like it today.  If I shoot a bird and it lands in cold icy water my poodle better get in there and fetch it back to me.  That is part of the reason I own them, feed them and enjoy them.  I want a dog that in some respect earns it's living.  I teach the dog the job I expect it to do and that is the fairest way I know how to train.  When the going gets tough I expect my dogs to buck up and live up to the challenge.  With these expectations in mind it seems the fairest thing to do is to train with the same methodologies.  These ideals are not always nice nor do I claim them to be fair, they are what I expect and I show my dogs clearly what I expect from the beginning.

When hunting with dogs there is an added issue of safety, both for the dogs and for humans. Unlike simply running in a hunt test where you qualify or don't ... no big deal, hunting with firearms creates a potential danger. A steady, under control dog is of great value and is the safest way for both itself and the handler. I take this training very seriously because I care for both my dogs and the safety of myself or anyone hunting with one of my dogs. I also care about the environment and the retrieval of a wounded bird becomes even more important the day of hunting. Nothing ruins the success of an outing quicker than losing valuable game. (10-11-02).

8-5-01
The program I have used with my poodles (Credits):

     1.  HOLD
     2.  EAR PINCH (Can use Toe Hitch or a form of ECollar work tho I have only done the ear pinch.)
     3.  MOVING FETCH
     4.  STICK FETCH
     5.  THREE HANDED CASTING
     6.  COLLAR CONDITIONING
     7.  FORCE TO PILE (Lining to Pile, Stick to Pile, Collar to Pile includes Double T and Swimby.)

**  I also add birds and many other objects to the hold and fetch process.  Sometimes I add this during the HOLD section but sometimes I add it later after the FORCE TO PILE section.  This I do depending on the dogs attitude and desire.  If the dog is worried during the HOLD I do not like to complicate things with multiple objects.  I will add these various objects later in the process.
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