Special thanks to WordPerfect Corporation for their spelling
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SPECIAL THANX ALSO GOES OUT TO:
Nitro Glycerine: For providing the files!
Xpax : For being patient while the cop was there!
The Producer : For getting the files to me....
The Director : For getting the files to me....
Mr.Camaro : For his BIG EGO!!!
The Magician : For ALL the Bernoulli carts he is gonna
send!!
This is a collection of many years worth of effort........this
is the original manuscript for a non-published work, from an
unknown author.....It was originally two LARGE files which had
to be merged and then HEAVILY EDITED, mostly the pictures, and
then spellchecked...This guy is a chemical genius but he could
not spell if his life depended on it....I have simply run a
spell check via WordPerfect 4.2, so there are probably more
errors which were not picked up...sorry...I hope you have the
patience to sit through this file, read it, then correct every
little error....It is not like I am submitting it or
anything...!!!!!
This file is dedicated To Kathie & KiKi
.....Wherever you both may be.....
THE TERRORIST'S HANDBOOK
------------------------
1.0 INTRODUCTION
Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies, a division of Chaos
Industries (CHAOS), is proud to present this first edition of
The Terrorist's Handbook. First and foremost, let it be
stated that Chaos Industries assumes no responsibilities for
any misuse of the information presented in this publication.
The purpose of this is to show the many techniques and methods
used by those people in this and other countries who employ
terror as a means to political and social goals.
The techniques herein can be obtained from public libraries,
and can usually be carried out by a terrorist with minimal
equipment. This makes one all the more frightened, since any
lunatic or social deviant could obtain this information,
and use it against anyone. The processes and techniques
herein SHOULD NOT BE CARRIED OUT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES!!
SERIOUS HARM OR DEATH COULD OCCUR FROM ATTEMPTING TO PERFORM
ANY OF THE METHODS IN THIS PUBLICATION. THIS IS MERELY
FOR READING ENJOYMENT, AND IS NOT INTENDED FOR ACTUAL USE!!
Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies feels that it is important that
everyone has some idea of just how easy it is for a terrorist
to perform acts of terror; that is the reason for the
existence of this publication.
1.1 Table of Contents
-----------------
2.0 ....... BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS
2.01 ........ Black Powder
2.02 ........ Pyrodex
2.03 ........ Rocket Engine Powder
2.04 ........ Rifle/Shotgun Powder
2.05 ........ Flash Powder
2.06 ........ Ammonium Nitrate
2.1 ....... ACQUIRING CHEMICALS
2.11 ........ Techniques for Picking Locks
2.2 ....... LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS' AVAILABILITY
2.3 ....... PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS
2.31 ........ Nitric Acid
2.32 ........ Sulfuric Acid
2.33 ........ Ammonium Nitrate
3.0 ....... EXPLOSIVE RECIPES
3.01 ........ Explosive Theory
3.1 ....... IMPACT EXPLOSIVES
3.11 ........ Nitrogen Triiodide Crystals
3.12 ........ Mercury Fulminate
3.13 ........ Nitroglycerine
3.14 ........ Picrates
3.2 ....... LOW ORDER EXPLOSIVES
3.21 ........ Black Powder
3.22 ........ Nitrocellulose
3.23 ........ Fuel + Oxidizer mixtures
3.24 ........ Perchlorates
3.3 ....... HIGH ORDER EXPLOSIVES
3.31 ........ R.D.X. (Cyclonite)
3.32 ........ Ammonium Nitrate
3.33 ........ ANFOS
3.34 ........ T.N.T.
3.35 ........ Potassium Chlorate
3.36 ........ Dynamite
3.37 ........ Nitrostarch Explosives
3.38 ........ Picric Acid
3.39 ........ Ammonium Picrate (Explosive D)
3.40 ........ Nitrogen Trichloride
3.41 ........ Lead Azide
3.5 ....... OTHER "EXPLOSIVES"
3.51 ........ Thermit
3.52 ........ Molotov Cocktails
3.53 ........ Chemical Fire Bottle
3.54 ........ Bottled Gas Explosives
4.0 ....... USING EXPLOSIVES
4.1 ....... SAFETY
4.2 ....... IGNITION DEVICES
4.21 ........ Fuse Ignition
4.22 ........ Impact Ignition
4.23 ........ Electrical Ignition
4.24 ........ Electro - Mechanical Ignition
4.241 ....... Mercury Switches
4.242 ....... Tripwire Switches
4.243 ....... Radio Control Detonators
4.3 ....... DELAYS
4.31 ........ Fuse Delays
4.32 ........ Timer Delays
4.33 ........ Chemical Delays
4.4 ....... EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS
4.41 ........ Paper Containers
4.42 ........ Metal Containers
4.43 ........ Glass Containers
4.44 ........ Plastic Containers
4.5 ....... ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES
4.51 ........ Shaped Charges
4.52 ........ Tube Explosives
4.53 ........ Atomized Particle Explosions
4.54 ........ Lightbulb Bombs
4.55 ........ Book Bombs
4.56 ........ Phone Bombs
5.0 ....... SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS
5.1 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (PRIMITIVE)
5.11 ........ Bow and Crossbow Ammunition
5.12 ........ Blowgun Ammunition
5.13 ........ Wrist Rocket and Slingshot Ammunition
5.2 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (FIREARMS)
5.21 ........ Handgun Ammunition
5.22 ........ Shotguns
5.3 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (COMPRESSED GAS)
5.31 ........ .177 Caliber B.B Gun Ammunition
5.32 ........ .22 Caliber Pellet Gun Ammunition
6.0 ....... ROCKETS AND CANNONS
6.1 ....... ROCKETS
6.11 ........ Basic Rocket-Bomb
6.12 ........ Long Range Rocket-Bomb
6.13 ........ Multiple Warhead Rocket-Bombs
6.2 ........ CANNONS
6.21 ........ Basic Pipe Cannon
6.22 ........ Rocket-Firing Cannon
7.0 ....... PYROTECHNICA ERRATA
7.1 ......... Smoke Bombs
7.2 ......... Colored Flames
7.3 ......... Tear Gas
7.4 ......... Fireworks
7.41 ........ Firecrackers
7.42 ........ Skyrockets
7.43 ........ Roman Candles
8.0 ....... LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND FURTHER INFORMATION
9.0 ....... CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS
10.0 ...... USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY
11.0 ...... ABOUT THE AUTHOR
2.0 BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS
Almost any city or town of reasonable size has a gun
store and a pharmacy. These are two of the places that
potential terrorists visit in order to purchase explosive
material. All that one has to do is know something about the
non-explosive uses of the materials. Black powder, for
example, is used in blackpowder firearms. It comes in varying
"grades", with each different grade being a slightly different
size. The grade of black powder depends on what the calibre
of the gun that it is used in; a fine grade of powder could
burn too fast in the wrong caliber weapon. The rule is: the
smaller the grade, the faster the burn rate of the powder.
2.01 BLACK POWDER
Black powder is generally available in three grades. As
stated before, the smaller the grade, the faster the powder
burns. Burn rate is extremely important in bombs. Since an
explosion is a rapid increase of gas volume in a confined
environment, to make an explosion, a quick-burning powder is
desirable. The three common grades of black powder are listed
below, along with the usual bore width (calibre) of what they
are used in. Generally, the fastest burning powder, the FFF
grade is desirable. However, the other grades and uses are
listed below:
GRADE BORE WIDTH EXAMPLE OF GUN
----- ---------- --------------
F .50 or greater model cannon; some rifles
FF .36 - .50 large pistols; small rifles
FFF .36 or smaller pistols; derringers
The FFF grade is the fastest burning, because the smaller
grade has more surface area or burning surface exposed to the
flame front. The larger grades also have uses which will be
discussed later. The price range of black powder, per pound,
is about $8.50 - $9.00. The price is not affected by the
grade, and so one saves oneself time and work if one buys the
finer grade of powder. The major problems with black powder
are that it can be ignited accidentally by static electricity,
and that it has a tendency to absorb moisture from the air.
To safely crush it, a bomber would use a plastic spoon and a
wooden salad bowl. Taking a small pile at a time, he or she
would apply pressure to the powder through the spoon and rub
it in a series of strokes or circles, but not too hard. It is
fine enough to use when it is about as fine as flour. The
fineness, however, is dependant on what type of device one
wishes to make; obviously, it would be impracticle to crush
enough powder to fill a 1 foot by 4 inch radius pipe. Anyone
can purchase black powder, since anyone can
own black powder firearms in America.
2.02 PYRODEX
Pyrodex is a synthetic powder that is used like black
powder. It comes in the same grades, but it is more expensive
per pound. However, a one pound container of pyrodex contains
more material by volume than a pound of black powder. It is
much easier to crush to a very fine powder than black powder,
and it is considerably safer and more reliable. This is
because it will not be set off by static electricity, as black
can be, and it is less inclined to absorb moisture. It costs
about $10.00 per pound. It can be crushed in the same manner
as black powder, or it can be dissolved in boiling water and
dried.
2.03 ROCKET ENGINE POWDER
One of the most exciting hobbies nowadays is model
rocketry. Estes is the largest producer of model rocket kits
and engines. Rocket engines are composed of a single large
grain of propellant. This grain is surrounded by a fairly
heavy cardboard tubing. One gets the propellant by slitting
the tube lengthwise, and unwrapping it like a paper towel
roll. When this is done, the grey fire clay at either end of
the propellant grain must be removed. This is usually done
gently with a plastic or brass knife. The material is
exceptionally hard, and must be crushed to be used. By
gripping the grain on the widest setting on a set of pliers,
and putting the grain and powder in a plastic bag, the powder
will not break apart and shatter all over. This should be
done to all the large chunks of powder, and then it should be
crushed like black powder. Rocket engines come in various
sizes, ranging from 1/4 A - 2T to the incredibly powerful D
engines. The larger the engine, the more expensive. D
engines come in packages of three, and cost about $5.00 per
package. Rocket engines are perhaps the single most useful
item sold in stores to a terrorist, since they can be used as
is, or can be cannibalized for their explosive powder.
2.04 RIFLE/SHOTGUN POWDER
Rifle powder and shotgun powder are really the same from
a practicle standpoint. They are both nitrocellulose based
propellants. They will be referred to as gunpowder in all
future references. Gunpowder is made by the action of
concentrated nitric and sulfuric acid upon cotton. This
material is then dissolved by solvents and then reformed in
the desired grain size. When dealing with gunpowder, the
grain size is not nearly as important as that of black powder.
Both large and small grained gunpowder burn fairly slowly
compared to black powder when unconfined, but when it is
confined, gunpowder burns both hotter and with more gaseous
expansion, producing more pressure. Therefore, the grinding
process that is often necessary for other propellants is not
necessary for gunpowder. Gunpowder costs about $9.00 per
pound. Any idiot can buy it, since there are no restrictions
on rifles or shotguns in the U.S.
2.05 FLASH POWDER
Flash powder is a mixture of powdered zirconium metal
and various oxidizers. It is extremely sensitive to heat or
sparks, and should be treated with more care than black
powder, with which it should NEVER be mixed. It is sold in
small containers which must be mixed and shaken before use. It
is very finely powdered, and is available in three speeds:
fast, medium, and slow. The fast flash powder is the best for
using in explosives or detonators. It burns very rapidly,
regardless of confinement or packing, with a hot white
"flash", hence its name. It is fairly expensive, costing
about $11.00. It is sold in magic shops and theatre supply
stores.
2.06 AMMONIUM NITRATE
Ammonium nitrate is a high explosive material that is
often used as a commercial "safety explosive" It is very
stable, and is difficult to ignite with a match. It will only
light if the glowing, red-hot part of a match is touching it.
It is also difficult to detonate; (the phenomenon of
detonation will be explained later) it requires a large
shockwave to cause it to go high explosive. Commercially, it
is sometimes mixed with a small amount of nitroglycerine to
increase its sensitivity. Ammonium nitrate is used in the
"Cold-Paks" or "Instant Cold", available in most drug stores.
The "Cold Paks" consist of a bag of water, surrounded by a
second plastic bag containing the ammonium nitrate. To get the
ammonium nitrate, simply cut off the top of the outside bag,
remove the plastic bag of water, and save the ammonium nitrate
in a well sealed, airtight container, since it is rather
hydroscopic, i.e. it tends to absorb water from the air. It is
also the main ingredient in many fertilizers.
2.1 ACQUIRING CHEMICALS
The first section deals with getting chemicals legally.
This section deals with "procuring" them. The best place to
steal chemicals is a college. any state schools have all of
their chemicals out on the shelves in the abs, and more in
their chemical stockrooms. Evening is the best time to enter
lab buildings, as there are the least number of people in the
buildings, and most of the labs will still be unlocked. One
simply takes a bookbag, wears dress shirt and jeans, and
tries to resemble a college freshman. If anyone asks what such
a person is doing, the thief can simply say that he is looking
for the polymer chemistry lab, or some other chemistry
related department other than the one they are in. One can
usually find out where the various labs and departments in a
building are by calling the university. There are, of course
other techniques for getting into labs after hours, such as
placing a piece of cardboard in the latch of an unused door,
such as a back exit. Then, all one needs to do is come back at
a later hour. Also, before this is done, terrorists check for
security systems.
If one just walks into a lab, even if there is someone there,
and walks out the back exit, and slip the cardboard in the
latch before the door closes, the person in the lab will never
know what happened. It is also a good idea to observe the
building that one plans to rob at the time that one plans to
rob it several days before the actual theft is done. This is
advisable since the would-be thief should know when and if the
campus security makes patrols through buildings. Of course, if
none of these methods are successful, there is always section
2.11, but as a rule, college campus security is pretty poor,
and nobody suspects another person in the building of doing
anything wrong, even if they are there at an odd hour.
2.11 TECHNIQUES FOR PICKING LOCKS
If it becomes necessary to pick a lock to enter a lab,
the world's most effective lockpick is dynamite, followed by a
sledgehammer. There are unfortunately, problems with noise
and excess structural damage with these methods. The next
best thing, however, is a set of army issue lockpicks.
These, unfortunately, are difficult to acquire. If the door to
a lab is locked, but the deadbolt is not engaged, then there
are other possibilities. The rule here is: if one can see the
latch, one can open the door. There are several devices which
facilitate freeing the latch from its hole in the wall. Dental
tools, stiff wire ( 20 gauge ), specially bent aluminum from
cans, thin pocket-knives, and credit cards are the tools of
the trade. The way that all these tools and devices are uses
is similar: pull, push, or otherwise move the latch out of its
hole in the wall, and pull the door open. This is done by
sliding whatever tool that you are using behind the latch, and
pulling the latch out from the wall. To make an aluminum-can
lockpick, terrorists can use an aluminum can and carefully cut
off the can top and bottom. Cut off the cans' ragged ends.
Then, cut the open-ended cylinder so that it can be flattened
out into a single long rectangle. This should then be cut into
inch wide strips. Fold the strips in 1/4 inch increments (1).
One will have a long quadruple-thick 1/4 nch wide strip of
aluminum. This should be folded into an L-shape, a J-shape,
or a U-shape. This is done by folding. The pieces would look
like this:
_________________________________________________________ v
1/4 |_______________________________________________________| |
1/4 |_______________________________________________________| | 1
inch
1/4 |_______________________________________________________| |
1/4 |_______________________________________________________| |
^
Fold along lines to make a single quadruple-thick piece
of aluminum. This should then be folded to produce an L,J,or U
shaped device that looks like this:
__________________________________________
/ ________________________________________|
| |
| | L-shaped
| |
| |
|_|
_____________________________
/ ___________________________|
| |
| | J-shaped
| |
| |________
\________|
_____________________
/ ___________________|
| |
| |
| | U-shaped
| |
| |____________________
\____________________|
All of these devices should be used to hook the latch of
a door and pull the latch out of its hole. The folds in the
lockpicks will be between the door and the wall, and so the
device will not unfold, if it is made properly.
2.2 LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND AVAILABILITY
Anyone can get many chemicals from hardware stores,
supermarkets, and drug stores to get the materials to make
explosives or other dangerous compounds. A would-be terrorist
would merely need a station wagon and some money to acquire
many of the chemicals named here.
Chemical Used In Available at
________ _______ ____________
alcohol, ethyl * alcoholic beverages liquor stores
solvents (95% min. for both) hardware stores
ammonia + CLEAR household ammonia supermarkets/7-eleven
ammonium- instant-cold paks, drug stores,
nitrate fertilizers medical supply stores
nitrous oxide pressurizing whip cream party supply stores
magnesium firestarters surplus/camping stores
lecithin vitamins pharmacies/drug stores
mineral oil cooking, laxative supermarket/drug stores
mercury @ mercury thermometers supermarkets/hardware stores
sulfuric acid uncharged car batteries automotive stores
glycerine ? pharmacies/drug stores
sulfur gardening gardening/hardware store
charcoal charcoal grills supermarkets/gardening stores
sodium nitrate fertilizer gardening store
cellulose (cotton) first aid drug/medical supply stores
strontium nitrate road flares surplus/auto stores,
fuel oil kerosine stoves surplus/camping stores,
bottled gas propane stoves surplus/camping stores,
potassium permanganate water purification purification plants
hexamine or hexamine stoves surplus/camping stores
methenamine (camping)
nitric acid ^ cleaning printing printing shops
plates photography stores
iodine & first aid drug stores
sodium perchlorate solidox pellets hardware stores
for cutting torches
NOTES: * ethyl alcohol is mixed with methyl alcohol when it is
used as a solvent. Methyl alcohol is very poisonous. Solvent
alcohol must be at least 95% ethyl alcohol if it is used to
make mercury fulminate. Methyl alcohol may prevent mercury
fulminate from forming.
+ Ammonia, when bought in stores comes in a variety of
forms. The pine and cloudy ammonias should not be bought;
only the clear ammonia should be used to make ammonium
triiodide crystals.
@ Mercury thermometers are becoming a rarity, unfortuna-
tely. They may be hard to find in most stores. Mercury is
also used in mercury switches, which are available at
electronics stores. Mercury is a hazardous substance, and
should be kept in the thermometer or mercury switch until
used. It gives off mercury vapors which will cause brain
damage if inhaled. For this reason, it is a good idea not to
spill mercury, and to always use it outdoors. Also, do not get
it in an open cut; rubber gloves will help prevent this.
^ Nitric acid is very difficult to find nowadays. It is
usually stolen by bomb makers, or made by the process
described in a later section. A desired concentration for
making explosives about 70%.
& The iodine sold in drug stores is usually not the pure
crystaline form that is desired for producing ammonium
triiodide crystals. To obtain the pure form, it must usually
be acquired by a doctor's prescription, but this can be
expensive. Once again, theft is the means that terrorists
result to.
2.3 PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS
2.31 NITRIC ACID
There are several ways to make this most essential of
all acids for explosives. One method by which it could be
made will be presented. Once again, be reminded that these
methods SHOULD NOT BE CARRIED OUT!!
Materials: Equipment:
---------- ----------
sodium nitrate or adjustable heat source
potassium nitrate
retort
distilled water
ice bath
concentrated
sulfuric acid stirring rod
collecting flask with stopper
1) Pour 32 milliliters of concentrated sulfuric acid into the
retort.
2) Carefully weigh out 58 grams of sodium nitrate, or 68 grams
of potassium nitrate. and add this to the acid slowly. If it
all does not dissolve, carefully stir the solution with a
glass rod until it does.
3) Place the open end of the retort into the collecting flask,
and place the collecting flask in the ice bath.
4) Begin heating the retort, using low heat. Continue heating
until liquid begins to come out of the end of the retort. The
liquid that forms is nitric acid. Heat until the precipitate
in the bottom of the retort is almost dry, or until no more
nitric acid is forming. CAUTION: If the acid is heated too
strongly, the nitric acid will decompose as soon as it is
formed. This can result in the production of highly flammable
and toxic gasses that may explode. It is a good idea to set
the above apparatus up, and then get away from it.
Potassium nitrate could also be obtained from store
bought black powder, simply by dissolving black powder in
boiling water and filtering out the sulfur and charcoal. To
obtain 68 g of potassium nitrate, it would be necessary to
dissolve about 90 g of black powder in about one litre of
boiling water. Filter the dissolved solution through filter
paper in a funnel into a jar until the liquid that pours
through is clear. The charcoal and sulfur in black powder are
insoluble in water, and so when the solution of water is allo-
wed to evaporate, potassium nitrate will be left in the jar.
2.32 SULFURIC ACID
Sulfuric acid is far too difficult to make outside of a
laboratory or industrial plant. However, it is readily avai-
lable in an uncharged car battery. A person wishing to make
sulfuric acid would simply remove the top of a car battery and
pour the acid into a glass container. There would probably be
pieces of lead from the battery in the acid which would have
to be removed, either by boiling or filtration. The concen-
tration of the sulfuric acid can also be increased by boiling
it; very pure sulfuric acid pours slightly faster than clean
motor oil.
2.33 AMMONIUM NITRATE
Ammonium nitrate is a very powerful but insensitive
high-order explosive. It could be made very easily by pouring
nitric acid into a large flask in an ice bath. Then, by simply
pouring household ammonia into the flask and running away,
ammonium nitrate would be formed. After the materials have
stopped reacting, one would simply have to leave the solution
in a warm place until all of the water and any unneutralized
ammonia or acid have evaporated. There would be a fine powder
formed, which would be ammonium nitrate. It must be kept in an
airtight container, because of its tendency to pick up water
from the air. The crystals formed in the above process would
have to be heated VERY gently to drive off the remaining
water.
3.0 EXPLOSIVE RECIPES
Once again, persons reading this material MUST NEVER
ATTEMPT TO PRODUCE ANY OF THE EXPLOSIVES DESCRIBED HEREIN.
IT IS ILLEGAL AND EXTREMELY DANGEROUS TO ATTEMPT TO DO SO.
LOSS OF LIFE AND/OR LIMB COULD EASILY OCCUR AS A RESULT OF
ATTEMPTING TO PRODUCE EXPLOSIVE MATERIALS. These recipes are
theoretically correct, meaning that an individual could
conceivably produce the materials described.
3.01 EXPLOSIVE THEORY
An explosive is any material that, when ignited by heat
or shock, undergoes rapid decomposition or oxidation. This
process releases energy that is stored in the material in the
form of heat and light, or by breaking down into gaseous
compounds that occupy a much larger volume that the original
piece of material. Because this expansion is very rapid,
large volumes of air are displaced by the expanding gasses.
This expansion occurs at a speed greater than the speed of
sound, and so a sonic boom occurs. This explains the mecha-
nics behind an explosion. Explosives occur in several forms:
high-order explosives which detonate, low order explosives,
which burn, and primers, which may do both. High order
explosives detonate. A detonation occurs only in a high order
explosive. Detonations are usually incurred by a shockwave
that passes through a block of the high explosive material.
The shockwave breaks apart the molecular bonds between the
atoms of the substance, at a rate approximately
equal to the speed of sound traveling through that material.
In a high explosive, the fuel and oxodizer are chemically
bonded, and the shockwave breaks apart these bonds, and
re-combines the two materials to produce mostly gasses.
T.N.T., ammonium nitrate, and R.D.X. are examples of high
order explosives. Low order explosives do not detonate; they
burn, or undergo oxidation. when heated, the fuel(s) and
oxodizer(s) combine to produce heat, light, and gaseous
products. Some low order materials burn at about the same
speed under pressure as they do in the open, such as
blackpowder. Others, such as gunpowder, which is correctly
called nitrocellulose, burn much faster and hotter when they
are in a confined space, such as the barrel of a firearm; they
usually burn much slower than blackpowder when they are
ignited in unpressurized conditions. Black powder,
nitrocellulose, and flash powder are good examples of low
order explosives. Primers are peculiarities to the explosive
field. Some of them, such as mercury filminate, will function
as a low or high order explosive. They are usually more
sensitive to friction, heat, or shock, than the high or low
explosives. Most primers perform like a high order explosive,
except that they are much more sensitive. Still others merely
burn, but when they are confined, they burn at a great rate
and with a large expansion of gasses and a shockwave. Primers
are usually used in a small amount to initiate, or cause to
decompose, a high order explosive, as in an artillery shell.
But, they are also frequently used to ignite a low order
explosive; the gunpowder in a bullet is ignited by the
detonation of its primer.
3.1 IMPACT EXPLOSIVES
Impact explosives are often used as primers. Of the ones
discussed here, only mercury fulminate and nitroglycerine are
real explosives; Ammonium triiodide crystals decompose upon
impact, but they release little heat and no light. Impact
explosives are always treated with the greatest care, and even
the stupidest anarchist never stores them near any high or low
explosives.
3.11 AMMONIUM TRIIODIDE CRYSTALS
Ammonium triiodide crystals are foul-smelling purple
colored crystals that decompose under the slightest amount of
heat, friction, or shock, if they are made with the purest
ammonia (ammonium hydroxide) and iodine. Such crystals are
said to detonate when a fly lands on them, or when an ant
walks across them. Household ammonia, however, has enough
impurities, such as soaps and abrasive agents, so that the
crystals will detonate when thrown, crushed, or heated. Upon
detonation, a loud report is heard, and a cloud of purple
iodine gas appears about the detonation site. Whatever the
unfortunate surface that the crystal was detonated upon will
usually be ruined, as some of the iodine in the crystal is
thrown about in a solid form, and iodine is corrosive. It
leaves nasty, ugly, permanent brownish-purple stains on whate-
ver it contacts. Iodine gas is also bad news, since it can
damage lungs, and it settles to the ground and stains things
there also. Touching iodine leaves brown stains on the skin
that last for about a week, unless they are immediately and
vigorously washed off. While such a compound would have
little use to a serious terrorist, a vandal could utilize them
in damaging property. Or, a terrorist could throw several of
them into a crowd as a distraction, an action which would
possibly injure a few people, but frighten almost anyone,
since a small crystal that not be seen when thrown produces a
rather loud explosion. Ammonium triiodide crystals could be
produced in the following manner:
Materials Equipment
--------- ---------
iodine crystals funnel and filter paper
paper towels
clear ammonia
(ammonium hydroxide, two throw-away glass jars
for the suicidal)
1) Place about two teaspoons of iodine into one of the glass
jars. The jars must both be throw away because they will
never be clean again.
2) Add enough ammonia to completely cover the iodine.
3) Place the funnel into the other jar, and put the filter
paper in the funnel. The technique for putting filter paper in
a funnel is taught in every basic chemistry lab class: fold
the circular paper in half, so that a semi-circle is formed.
Then, fold it in half again to form a triangle with one curved
side. Pull one thickness of paper out to form a cone, and
place the cone into the funnel.
4) After allowing the iodine to soak in the ammonia for a
while, pour the solution into the paper in the funnel through
the filter paper.
5) While the solution is being filtered, put more ammonia into
the first jar to wash any remaining crystals into the funnel
as soon as it drains.
6) Collect all the purplish crystals without touching the
brown filter paper, and place them on the paper towels to dry
for about an hour. Make sure that they are not too close to
any lights or other sources of heat, as they could well
detonate. While they are still wet, divide the wet material
into about eight chunks.
7) After they dry, gently place the crystals onto a one square
inch piece of duct tape. Cover it with a similar piece, and
gently press the duct tape together around the crystal, making
sure not to press the crystal itself.
Finally, cut away most of the excess duct tape with a pair
of scissors, and store the crystals in a cool dry safe place.
They have a shelf life of about a week, and they should be
stored in individual containers that can be thrown away, since
they have a tendency to slowly decompose, a process which
gives off iodine vapors, which will stain whatever they settle
on. One possible way to increase their shelf life is to store
them in airtight containers. To use them, simply throw them
against any surface or place them where they will be stepped
on or crushed.
3.12 MERCURY FULMINATE
Mercury fulminate is perhaps one of the oldest known
initiating compounds. It can be detonated by either heat or
shock, which would make it of infinite value to a terrorist.
Even the action of dropping a crystal of the fulminate causes
it to explode. A person making this material would probably
use the following procedure:
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
--------- ---------
mercury (5 g) glass stirring rod
concentrated nitric 100 ml beaker (2)
acid (35 ml)
adjustable heat
ethyl alcohol (30 ml) source
distilled water blue litmus paper
funnel and filter paper
1) In one beaker, mix 5 g of mercury with 35 ml of concentra-
ted nitric acid, using the glass rod.
2) Slowly heat the mixture until the mercury is dissolved,
which is when the solution turns green and boils.
3) Place 30 ml of ethyl alcohol into the second beaker, and
slowly and carefully add all of the contents of the first
beaker to it. Red and/or brown fumes should appear. These
fumes are toxic and flammable.
4) After thirty to forty minutes, the fumes should turn white,
indicating that the reaction is near completion. After ten
more minutes, add 30 ml of the distilled water to the
solution.
5) Carefully filter out the crystals of mercury fulminate from
the liquid solution. Dispose of the solution in a safe place,
as it is corrosive and toxic.
6) Wash the crystals several times in distilled water to
remove as much excess acid as possible.
Test the crystals with the litmus paper until they are
neutral. This will be when the litmus paper stays blue when
it touches the wet crystals.
7) Allow the crystals to dry, and store them in a safe place,
far away from any explosive or flammable material.
This procedure can also be done by volume, if the available
mercury cannot be weighed. Simply use 10 volumes of nitric
acid and 10 volumes of ethanol to every one volume of mercury.
3.13 NITROGLYCERINE
Nitroglycerine is one of the most sensitive explosives,
if it is not the most sensitive. Although it is possible to
make it safely, it is difficult. Many a young anarchist has
been killed or seriously injured while trying to make the
stuff. When Nobel's factories made it, many people were
killed by the all-to-frequent factory explosions. Usually, as
soon as it is made, it is converted into a safer substance,
such as dynamite. An idiot who attempts to make nitroglyceri-
ne would use the following procedure:
MATERIAL EQUIPMENT
-------- ---------
distilled water eye-dropper
table salt 100 ml beaker
sodium bicarbonate 200-300 ml beakers (2)
concentrated nitric ice bath container
acid (13 ml) ( a plastic bucket serves well )
concentrated sulfuric centigrade thermometer
acid (39 ml)
blue litmus paper
glycerine
1) Place 150 ml of distilled water into one of the 200-300 ml
beakers.
2) In the other 200-300 ml beaker, place 150 ml of distilled
water and about a spoonful of sodium bicarbonate, and stir
them until the sodium bicarbonate dissolves. Do not put so
much sodium bicarbonate in the water that some remains
undissolved.
3) Create an ice bath by half filling the ice bath container
with ice, and adding table salt. This will cause the ice to
melt, lowering the overall temperature.
4) Place the 100 ml beaker into the ice bath, and pour the 13
ml of concentrated nitric acid into the 100 ml beaker. Be
sure that the beaker will not spill into the ice bath, and
that the ice bath will not overflow into the beaker when more
materials are added to it. Be sure to have a large enough ice
bath container to add more ice. Bring the temperature of the
acid down to about 20 degrees centigrade or less.
5) When the nitric acid is as cold as stated above, slowly and
carefully add the 39 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the
nitric acid. Mix the two acids together, and cool the mixed
acids to 10 degrees centigrade. It is a good idea to start
another ice bath to do this.
6) With the eyedropper, slowly put the glycerine into the
mixed acids, one drop at a time. Hold the thermometer along
the top of the mixture where the mixed acids and glycerine
meet. DO NOT ALLOW THE TEMPERATURE TO GET ABOVE 30 DEGREES
CENTIGRADE; IF THE TEMPERATURE RISES ABOVE THIS TEMPERATURE,
RUN LIKE HELL!!! The glycerine will start to nitrate immedia-
tely, and the temperature will immediately begin to rise. Add
glycerine until there is a thin layer of glycerine on top of
the mixed acids. It is always safest to make any explosive in
small quantities.
7) Stir the mixed acids and glycerine for the first ten minu-
tes of nitration, adding ice and salt to the ice bath to keep
the temperature of the solution in the 100 ml beaker well
below 30 degrees centigrade. Usually, the nitroglycerine will
form on the top of the mixed acid solution, and the
concentrated sulfuric acid will absorb the water produced by
the reaction.
8) When the reaction is over, and when the nitroglycerine is
well below 30 degrees centigrade, slowly and carefully pour
the solution of nitroglycerine and mixed acid into the
distilled water in the beaker in step 1. The nitroglycerine
should settle to the bottom of the beaker, and the water-acid
solution on top can be poured off and disposed of. Drain as
much of the acid-water solution as possible without disturbing
the nitroglycerine.
9) Carefully remove the nitroglycerine with a clean eye-drop-
per, and place it into the beaker in step 2. The sodium
bicarbonate solution will eliminate much of the acid, which
will make the nitroglycerine more stable, and less likely to
explode for no reason, which it can do. Test the
nitroglycerine with the litmus paper until the litmus stays
blue. Repeat this step if necessary, and use new sodium
bicarbonate solutions as in step 2.
10) When the nitroglycerine is as acid-free as possible, store
it in a clean container in a safe place. The best place to
store nitroglycerine is far away from anything living, or from
anything of any value.
Nitroglycerine can explode for no apparent reason, even if
it is stored in a secure cool place.
3.14 PICRATES
Although the procedure for the production of picric acid,
or trinitrophenol has not yet been given, its salts are des-
cribed first, since they are extremely sensitive, and detonate
on impact. By mixing picric acid with metal hydroxides, such
as sodium or potassium hydroxide, and evaporating the water,
metal picrates can be formed. Simply obtain picric acid, or
produce it, and mix it with a solution of (preferably)
potassium hydroxide, of a mid range molarity. (about 6-9 M)
This material, potassium picrate, is impact-sensitive, and can
be used as an initiator for any type of high explosive.
3.2 LOW-ORDER EXPLOSIVES
There are many low-order explosives that can be purchased
in gun stores and used in explosive devices. However, it is
possible that a wise wise store owner would not sell these
substances to a suspicious-looking individual. Such an indivi-
dual would then be forced to resort to making his own low-or-
der explosives.
3.21 BLACK POWDER
First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black
powder was first used in weapons and explosives in the 12th
century. It is very simple to make, but it is not very power-
ful or safe. Only about 50% of black powder is converted to
hot gasses when it is burned; the other half is mostly very
fine burned particles. Black powder has one major problem: it
can be ignited by static electricity. This is very bad, and
it means that the material must be made with wooden or clay
tools. Anyway, a misguided individual could manufacture black
powder at home with the following procedure:
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
--------- ---------
potassium clay grinding bowl
nitrate (75 g) and clay grinder
or or
sodium wooden salad bowl
nitrate (75 g) and wooden spoon
sulfur (10 g) plastic bags (3)
charcoal (15 g) 300-500 ml beaker (1)
distilled water coffee pot or heat source
1) Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in
the grinding bowl and grind it to a very fine powder. Do this
to all of the potassium or sodium nitrate, and store the
ground powder in one of the plastic bags.
2) Do the same thing to the sulfur and charcoal, storing each
chemical in a separate plastic bag.
3) Place all of the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate
in the beaker, and add just enough boiling water to the
chemical to get it all wet.
4) Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet
potassium or sodium nitrate, and mix them well for several
minutes. Do this until there is no more visible sulfur or
charcoal, or until the mixture is universally black.
5) On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct
sunlight. Sunlight is really the best way to dry black
powder, since it is never too hot, but it is hot enough to
evaporate the water.
6) Scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and store it in
a safe container. Plastic is really the safest container,
followed by paper. Never store black powder in a plastic bag,
since plastic bags are prone to generate static electricity.
3.22 NITROCELLULOSE
Nitrocellulose is usually called "gunpowder" or "guncot-
ton". It is more stable than black powder, and it produces a
much greater volume of hot gas. It also burns much faster
than black powder when it is in a confined space. Finally,
nitrocellulose is fairly easy to make, as outlined by the
following procedure:
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
--------- ---------
cotton (cellulose) two (2) 200-300 ml beakers
concentrated funnel and filter paper
nitric acid
blue litmus paper
concentrated
sulfuric acid
distilled water
1) Pour 10 cc of concentrated sulfuric acid into the beaker.
Add to this 10 cc of concentrated nitric acid.
2) Immediately add 0.5 gm of cotton, and allow it to soak for
exactly 3 minutes.
3) Remove the nitrocotton, and transfer it to a beaker of
distilled water to wash it in.
4) Allow the material to dry, and then re-wash it.
5) After the cotton is neutral when tested with litmus paper,
it is ready to be dried and stored.
3.23 FUEL-OXODIZER MIXTURES
There are nearly an infinite number of fuel-oxodizer
mixtures that can be produced by a misguided individual in his
own home. Some are very effective and dangerous, while others
are safer and less effective. A list of working fuel-oxodizer
mixtures will be presented, but the exact measurements of each
compound are debatable for maximum effectiveness. A rough
estimate will be given of the percentages of each fuel and
oxodizer:
oxodizer, % by weight fuel, % by weight speed # notes
================================================================================
potassium chlorate 67% sulfur 33% 5 friction/impact
sensitive; unstable
potassium chlorate 50% sugar 35% 5 fairly slow burning;
charcoal 15% unstable
potassium chlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 extremely
magnesium or unstable!
aluminum dust 25%
potassium chlorate 67% magnesium or 8 unstable
aluminum dust 33%
sodium nitrate 65% magnesium dust 30% ? unpredictable
sulfur 5% burn rate
potassium permanganate 60% glycerine 40% 4 delay before
ignition depends
WARNING: IGNITES SPONTANEOUSLY WITH GLYCERINE!!! upon grain size
potassium permanganate 67% sulfur 33% 5 unstable
potassium permangenate 60% sulfur 20% 5 unstable
magnesium or
aluminum dust 20%
potassium permanganate 50% sugar 50% 3 ?
potassium nitrate 75% charcoal 15% 7 this is
sulfur 10% black powder!
potassium nitrate 60% powdered iron 1 burns very hot
or magnesium 40%
potassium chlorate 75% phosphorus 8 used to make strike-
sesquisulfide 25% anywhere matches
ammonium perchlorate 70% aluminum dust 30% 6 solid fuel for
and small amount of space shuttle
iron oxide
potassium perchlorate 67% magnesium or 10 flash powder
(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 33%
potassium perchlorate 60% magnesium or 8 alternate
(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 20% flash powder
sulfur 20%
barium nitrate 30% aluminum dust 30% 9 alternate
potassium perchlorate 30% flash powder
barium peroxide 90% magnesium dust 5% 10 alternate
aluminum dust 5% flash powder
potassium perchlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 slightly
magnesium or unstable
aluminum dust 25%
potassium chlorate 67% red phosphorus 27% 7 very unstable
calcium carbonate 3% sulfur 3% impact sensitive
potassium permanganate 50% powdered sugar 25% 7 unstable;
aluminum or ignites if
magnesium dust 25% it gets wet!
potassium chlorate 75% charcoal dust 15% 6 unstable
sulfur 10%
=================================================================================
NOTE: Mixtures that uses substitutions of sodium perchlorate
for potassium perchlorate become moisture-absorbent and less
stable. The higher the speed number, the faster the
fuel-oxodizer mixture burns AFTER ignition. Also, as a rule,
the finer the powder, the faster the rate of burning. As one
can easily see, there is a wide variety of fuel-oxodizer
mixtures that can be made at home. By altering the amounts of
fuel and oxodizer(s), different burn rates can be achieved,
but this also can change the sensitivity of the mixture.
3.24 PERCHLORATES
As a rule, any oxidizable material that is treated with
perchloric acid will become a low order explosive. Metals,
however, such as potassium or sodium, become excellent bases
for flash-type powders. Some materials that can be
perchlorated are cotton, paper, and sawdust. To produce
potassium or sodium perchlorate, simply acquire the hydroxide
of that metal, e.g. sodium or potassium hydroxide. It is a
good idea to test the material to be perchlorated with a very
small amount of acid, since some of the materials tend to
react explosively when contacted by the acid.
Solutions of sodium or potassium hydroxide are ideal.
3.3 HIGH-ORDER EXPLOSIVES
High order explosives can be made in the home without too
much difficulty. The main problem is acquiring the nitric
acid to produce the high explosive. Most high explosives
detonate because their molecular structure is made up of some
fuel and usually three or more NO2 ( nitrogen dioxide )
molecules. T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene is an excellent
example of such a material. When a shock wave passes through
an molecule of T.N.T., the nitrogen dioxide bond is broken,
and the oxygen combines with the fuel, all in a matter of
microseconds. This accounts for the great power of
nitrogen-based explosives. Remembering that these procedures
are NEVER TO BE CARRIED OUT, several methods of manufacturing
high-order explosives in the home are listed.
3.31 R.D.X.
R.D.X., also called cyclonite, or composition C-1 (when
mixed with plasticisers) is one of the most valuable of all
military explosives. This is because it has more than 150% of
the power of T.N.T., and is much easier to detonate. It
should not be used alone, since it can be set off by a not-too
severe shock. It is less sensitive than mercury fulminate, or
nitroglycerine, but it is still too sensitive to be used
alone. R.D.X. can be made by the surprisingly simple method
outlined hereafter. It is much easier to make in the home
than all other high explosives, with the possible exception of
ammonium nitrate.
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
--------- ---------
hexamine 500 ml beaker
or
methenamine glass stirring rod
fuel tablets (50 g)
funnel and filter paper
concentrated
nitric acid (550 ml) ice bath container
(plastic bucket)
distilled water
centigrade thermometer
table salt
blue litmus paper
ice
ammonium nitrate
1) Place the beaker in the ice bath, (see section 3.13, steps
3-4) and carefully pour 550 ml of concentrated nitric acid
into the beaker.
2) When the acid has cooled to below 20 degrees centigrade,
add small amounts of the crushed fuel tablets to the beaker.
The temperature will rise, and it must be kept below 30
degrees centigrade, or dire consequences could result.
Stir the mixture.
3) Drop the temperature below zero degrees centigrade, either
by adding more ice and salt to the old ice bath, or by
creating a new ice bath. Or, ammonium nitrate could be added
to the old ice bath, since it becomes cold when it is put in
water. Continue stirring the mixture, keeping the temperature
below zero degrees centigrade for at least twenty minutes.
4) Pour the mixture into a litre of crushed ice. Shake and
stir the mixture, and allow it to melt. Once it has melted,
filter out the crystals, and dispose of the corrosive liquid.
5) Place the crystals into one half a litre of boiling distil-
led water. Filter the crystals, and test them with the blue
litmus paper. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until the litmus paper
remains blue. This will make the crystals more stable and
safe.
6) Store the crystals wet until ready for use. Allow them to
dry completely using them. R.D.X. is not stable enough to use
alone as an explosive.
7) Composition C-1 can be made by mixing 88.3% R.D.X. (by
weight) with 11.1% mineral oil, and 0.6% lecithin. Kneed these
material together in a plastic bag. This is a good way to
desensitize the explosive.
8) H.M.X. is a mixture of T.N.T. and R.D.X.; the ratio is
50/50, by weight. it is not as sensitive, and is almost as
powerful as straight R.D.X.
9) By adding ammonium nitrate to the crystals of R.D.X. after
step 5, it should be possible to desensitize the R.D.X. and
increase its power, since ammonium nitrate is very insensitive
and powerful. Soduim or potassium nitrate could also be added;
a small quantity is sufficient to stabilize the R.D.X.
10) R.D.X. detonates at a rate of 8550 meters/second when it
is compressed to a density of 1.55 g/cubic cm.
3.32 AMMONIUM NITRATE
Ammonium nitrate could be made by a terrorist according
to the hap hazard method in section 2.33, or it could be
stolen from a construction site, since it is usually used in
blasting, because it is very stable and insensitive to shock
and heat. A terrorist could also buy several Instant Cold
Paks from a drug store or medical supply store. The major
disadvantage with ammonium nitrate, from a terrorist's point
of view, would be detonating it. A rather powerful priming
charge must be used, and usually with a booster charge. The
diagram below will explain.
_________________________________________
| | |
________| | |
| | T.N.T.| ammonium nitrate |
|primer |booster| |
|_______| | |
| | |
|_______|_______________________________|
The primer explodes, detonating the T.N.T., which detonates,
sending a tremendous shockwave through the ammonium nitrate,
detonating it.
3.33 ANFOS
ANFO is an acronym for Ammonium Nitrate - Fuel Oil Solution.
An ANFO solves the only other major problem with ammonium nitrate:
its tendency to pick up water vapor from the air. This results in
the explosive failing to detonate when such an attempt is made.
This is rectified by mixing 94% (by weight) ammonium nitrate with
6% fuel oil, or kerosene. The kerosene keeps the ammonium nitrate
from absorbing moisture from the air. An ANFO also requires a
large
shockwave to set it off.
3.34 T.N.T.
T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene, is perhaps the second oldest
known high explosive. Dynamite, of course, was the first. It is
certainly the best known high explosive, since it has been
popularized by early morning cartoons. It is the standard for
comparing other explosives to, since it is the most well known. In
industry, a T.N.T. is made by a three step nitration process that
is designed to conserve the nitric and sulfuric acids which are
used to make the
product. A terrorist, however, would probably opt for the less
economical one step method. The one step process is performed by
treating toluene with very strong (fuming) sulfuric acid. Then, the
sulfated toluene is treated with very strong (fuming) nitric acid
in an ice bath. Cold water is added the solution, and it is
filtered.
3.35 POTASSIUM CHLORATE
Potassium chlorate itself cannot be made in the home, but it
can be obtained from labs. If potassium chlorate is mixed with a
small amount of vaseline, or other petroleum jelly, and a shockwave
is passed through it, the material will detonate with slightly more
power than black powder. It must, however, be confined to detonate
it in this manner. The procedure for making such an explosive is
outlined below:
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
--------- ---------
potassium chlorate zip-lock plastic bag
(9 parts, by volume)
petroleum jelly clay grinding bowl
(vaseline) or
(1 part, by volume) wooden bowl and wooden spoon
1) Grind the potassium chlorate in the grinding bowl carefully and
slowly, until the potassium chlorate is a very fine powder. The
finer that it is powdered, the faster (better) it will detonate.
2) Place the powder into the plastic bag. Put the petroleum jelly
into the plastic bag, getting as little on the sides of the bag as
possible, i.e. put the vaseline on the potassium chlorate powder.
3) Close the bag, and kneed the materials together until none of
the potassium chlorate is dry powder that does not stick to the
main glob. If necessary, add a bit more petroleum jelly to the
bag.
4) The material must be used within 24 hours, or the mixture will
react to greatly reduce the effectiveness of the explosive. This
reaction, however, is harmless, and releases no heat or dangerous
products.
3.36 DYNAMITE
The name dynamite comes from the Greek word "dynamis", meaning
power. Dynamite was invented by Nobel shortly after he made nitro-
glycerine. It was made because nitroglycerine was so dangerously
sensitive to shock. A misguided individual with some sanity would,
after making nitroglycerine (an insane act), immediately convert it
to dynamite. This can be done by adding various materials to the
nitroglycerine, such as sawdust. The sawdust holds a large weight
of nitroglycerine per volume. Other materials, such as ammonium
nitrate could be added, and they would tend to desensitize the
explosive, and increase the power. But even these nitroglycerine
compounds are not really safe.
3.37 NITROSTARCH EXPLOSIVES
Nitrostarch explosives are simple to make, and are fairly
powerful. All that need be done is treat various starches with a
mixture of concentrated nitric and sulfuric acids. 10 ml of
concentrated sulfuric acid is added to 10 ml of concentrated nitric
acid. To this mixture is added 0.5 grams of starch. Cold water is
added, and the apparently unchanged nitrostarch is filtered out.
Nitrostarch explosives are of slightly lower power than T.N.T., but
they are more readily detonated.
3.38 PICRIC ACID
Picric acid, also known as Tri-Nitro-Phenol, or T.N.P., is a
military explosive that is most often used as a booster charge to
set off another less sensitive explosive, such as T.N.T. It's
another explosive that is fairly simple to make, assuming that one
can acquire the concentrated sulfuric and nitric acids. It's
manufacturing procedure is given in many college chemistry lab
manuals, and is easy to follow. The main problem with picric acid
is it's tendency to form dangerously sensitive and unstable picrate
salts, such as potassium picrate. For this reason, it is usually
made into a safer form, such as ammonium picrate, also called
explosive D. A social deviant would probably use a formula similar
to the one presented here to make picric acid.
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
--------- ---------
phenol (9.5 g) 500 ml flask
concentrated adjustable heat source
sulfuric acid (12.5 ml)
1000 ml beaker
concentrated nitric or other container
acid (38 ml) suitable for boiling in
distilled water filter paper
and funnel
glass stirring rod
1) Place 9.5 grams of phenol into the 500 ml flask, and carefully
add 12.5 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid and stir the mixture.
2) Put 400 ml of tap water into the 1000 ml beaker or boiling
container and bring the water to a gentle boil.
3) After warming the 500 ml flask under hot tap water, place it in
the boiling water, and continue to stir the mixture of phenol and
acid for about thirty minutes. After thirty minutes, take the
flask out, and allow it to cool for about five minutes.
4) Pour out the boiling water used above, and after allowing the
container to cool, use it to create an ice bath, similar to the one
used in section 3.13, steps 3-4. Place the 500 ml flask with the
mixed acid an phenol in the ice bath. Add 38 ml of concentrated
nitric acid in small amounts, stirring the mixture constantly. A
vigorous but "harmless" reaction should occur. When the mixture
stops reacting vigorously, take the flask out of the ice bath.
5) Warm the ice bath container, if it is glass, and then begin
boiling more tap water. Place the flask containing the mixture in
the boiling water, and heat it in the boiling water for 1.5 to 2
hours.
6) Add 100 ml of cold distilled water to the solution, and chill it
in an ice bath until it is cold.
7) Filter out the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring
the solution through the filter paper in the funnel. Collect the
liquid and dispose of it in a safe place, since it is corrosive.
8) Wash out the 500 ml flask with distilled water, and put the
contents of the filter paper in the flask. Add 300 ml of water,
and shake vigorously.
9) Re-filter the crystals, and allow them to dry.
10) Store the crystals in a safe place in a glass container, since
they will react with metal containers to produce picrates that
could explode spontaneously.
3.39 AMMONIUM PICRATE
Ammonium picrate, also called Explosive D, is another safety
explosive. It requires a substantial shock to cause it to detonate,
slightly less than that required to detonate ammonium nitrate. It
is much safer than picric acid, since it has little tendency to
form hazardous unstable salts when placed in metal containers. It
is simple to make from picric acid and clear household ammonia.
All that need be done is put the picric acid crystals into a glass
container and dissolve them in a great quantity of hot water. Add
clear household ammonia in excess, and allow the excess ammonia to
evaporate. The powder remaining should be ammonium picrate.
3.40 NITROGEN TRICHLORIDE
Nitrogen trichloride, also known as chloride of azode, is an
oily yellow liquid. It explodes violently when it is heated above
60 degrees celsius, or when it comes in contact with an open flame
or spark. It is fairly simple to produce.
1) In a beaker, dissolve about 5 teaspoons of ammonium nitrate in
water. Do not put so much ammonium nitrate into the solution that
some of it remains undissolved in the bottom of the beaker.
2) Collect a quantity of chlorine gas in a second beaker by mixing
hydrochloric acid with potassium permanganate in a large flask with
a stopper and glass pipe.
3) Place the beaker containing the chlorine gas upside down on top
of the beaker containing the ammonium nitrate solution, and tape
the beakers together. Gently heat the bottom beaker. When this is
done, oily yellow droplets will begin to form on the surface of the
solution, and sink down to the bottom. At this time, remove the
heat source immediately.
Alternately, the chlorine can be bubbled through the ammonium
nitrate solution, rather than collecting the gas in a beaker, but
this requires timing and a stand to hold the beaker and test tube.
The chlorine gas can also be mixed with anhydrous ammonia gas,
by gently heating a flask filled with clear household ammonia.
Place the glass tubes from the chlorine-generating flask and the
tube from the ammonia-generating flask in another flask that
contains water.
4) Collect the yellow droplets with an eyedropper, and use them
immediately, since nitrogen trichloride decomposes in 24 hours.
3.41 LEAD AZIDE
Lead Azide is a material that is often used as a booster
charge for other explosive, but it does well enough on its own as a
fairly sensitive explosive. It does not detonate too easily by
percussion or impact, but it is easily detonated by heat from an
igniter wire, or a blasting cap. It is simple to produce, assuming
that the necessary chemicals can be procured. By dissolving sodium
azide and lead acetate in water in separate beakers, the two
materials are put into an aqueous state. Mix the two beakers
together, and apply a gentle heat. Add an excess of the lead
acetate solution, until no reaction occurs, and the precipitate on
the bottom of the beaker stops forming. Filter off the solution,
and wash the precipitate in hot water. The precipitate is lead
azide, and it must be stored wet for safety. If lead acetate cannot
be found, simply acquire acetic acid, and put lead metal in it.
Black powder bullets work well for this purpose.
3.5 OTHER "EXPLOSIVES"
The remaining section covers the other types of materials that
can be used to destroy property by fire. Although none of the
materials presented here are explosives, they still produce
explosive-style results.
3.51 THERMIT
Thermit is a fuel-oxodizer mixture that is used to generate
tremendous amounts of heat. It was not presented in section 3.23
because it does not react nearly as readily. It is a mixture of
iron oxide and aluminum, both finely powdered. When it is ignited,
the aluminum burns, and extracts the oxygen from the iron oxide.
This is really two very exothermic reactions that produce a
combined temperature of about 2200 degrees C. This is half the heat
produced by an atomic weapon. It is difficult to ignite, however,
but when it is ignited, it is one of the most effective
firestarters around.
MATERIALS
---------
powdered aluminum (10 g)
powdered iron oxide (10 g)
1) There is no special procedure or equipment required to make
thermit. Simply mix the two powders together, and try to make the
mixture as homogenous as possible. The ratio of iron oxide to
aluminum is 50% / 50% by weight, and can be made in greater or
lesser amounts.
2) Ignition of thermit can be accomplished by adding a small amount
of potassium chlorate to the thermit, and pouring a few drops of
sulfuric acid on it. This method and others will be discussed
later in section 4.33. The other method of igniting thermit is
with a magnesium strip. Finally, by using common sparkler-type
fireworks placed in the thermit, the mixture can be ignited.
3.52 MOLOTOV COCKTAILS
First used by Russians against German tanks, the Molotov
cocktail is now exclusively used by terrorists worldwide. They are
extremely simple to make, and can produce devastating results. By
taking any highly flammable material, such as gasoline, diesel
fuel, kerosene, ethyl or methyl alcohol, lighter fluid, turpentine,
or any mixture of the above, and putting it into a large glass
bottle, anyone can make an effective firebomb. After putting the
flammable
liquid in the bottle, simply put a piece of cloth that is soaked in
the liquid in the top of the bottle so that it fits tightly. Then,
wrap some of the cloth around the neck and tie it, but be sure to
leave a few inches of loose cloth to light. Light the exposed
cloth, and throw the bottle. If the burning cloth does not go out,
and if the bottle breaks on impact, the contents of the bottle will
spatter over a large area near the site of impact, and burst into
flame. Flammable mixtures such as kerosene and motor oil should be
mixed with a more volatile and flammable liquid, such as gasoline,
to insure ignition. A mixture such as tar or grease and gasoline
will stick to the surface that it strikes, and burn hotter, and be
more difficult to extinguish. A mixture such as this must be shaken
well before it is lit and thrown.....
3.53 CHEMICAL FIRE BOTTLE
The chemical fire bottle is really an advanced molotov cock-
tail. Rather than using the burning cloth to ignite the flammable
liquid, which has at best a fair chance of igniting the liquid, the
chemical fire bottle utilizes the very hot and violent reaction
between sulfuric acid and potassium chlorate. When the container
breaks, the sulfuric acid in the mixture of gasoline sprays onto
the paper soaked in potassium chlorate and sugar. The paper, when
struck by the acid, instantly bursts into a white flame, igniting
the gasoline. The chance of failure to ignite the gasoline is less
than 2%, and can be reduced to 0%, if there is enough potassium
chlorate and sugar to spare.
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
--------- ---------
potassium chlorate glass bottle
(2 teaspoons) (12 oz.)
sugar (2 teaspoons) cap for bottle,
with plastic inside
concentrated cooking pan with raised
sulfuric acid (4 oz.) edges
gasoline (8 oz.) paper towels
glass or plastic cup
and spoon
1) Test the cap of the bottle with a few drops of sulfuric acid to
make sure that the acid will not eat away the bottle cap during
storage. If the acid eats through it in 24 hours, a new top must
be found and tested, until a cap that the acid does not eat through
is found. A glass top is excellent.
2) Carefully pour 8 oz. of gasoline into the glass bottle.
3) Carefully pour 4 oz. of concentrated sulfuric acid into the
glass bottle. Wipe up any spills of acid on the sides of the
bottle, and screw the cap on the bottle. Wash the bottle's outside
with plenty of water. Set it aside to dry.
4) Put about two teaspoons of potassium chlorate and about two
teaspoons of sugar into the glass or plastic cup. Add about 1/2
cup of boiling water, or enough to dissolve all of the potassium
chlorate and sugar.
5) Place a sheet of paper towel in the cooking pan with raised
edges. Fold the paper towel in half, and pour the solution of
dissolved potassium chlorate and sugar on it until it is thoroughly
wet. Allow the towel to dry.
6) When it is dry, put some glue on the outside of the glass bottle
containing the gasoline and sulfuric acid mixture. Wrap the paper
towel around the bottle, making sure that it sticks to it in all
places. Store the bottle in a place where it will not be broken or
tipped over.
7) When finished, the solution in the bottle should appear as two
distinct liquids, a dark brownish-red solution on the bottom, and a
clear solution on top. The two solutions will not mix. To use the
chemical fire bottle, simply throw it at any hard surface.
8) NEVER OPEN THE BOTTLE, SINCE SOME SULFURIC ACID MIGHT BE ON THE
CAP, WHICH COULD TRICKLE DOWN THE SIDE OF THE BOTTLE AND IGNITE THE
POTASSIUM CHLORATE, CAUSING A FIRE AND/OR EXPLOSION.
9) To test the device, tear a small piece of the paper towel off
the bottle, and put a few drops of sulfuric acid on it. The paper
towel should immediately burst into a white flame.
3.54 BOTTLED GAS EXPLOSIVES
Bottled gas, such as butane for refilling lighters, propane
for propane stoves or for bunsen burners, can be used to produce a
powerful explosion. To make such a device, all that a simple-minded
anarchist would have to do would be to take his container of
bottled gas and place it above a can of Sterno or other gelatinized
fuel, and light the fuel and run. Depending on the fuel used, and
on the thickness of the fuel container, the liquid gas will boil
and expand to the point of bursting the container in about five
minutes. In theory, the gas would immediately be ignited by the
burning gelatinized fuel, producing a large fireball and explosion.
Unfortunately, the bursting of the bottled gas container often puts
out the fuel, thus preventing the expanding gas from igniting. By
using a metal bucket half filled with gasoline, however, the
chances of ignition are better, since the gasoline is less likely
to be extinguished. Placing the canister of bottled gas on a bed
of burning charcoal soaked in gasoline would probably be the most
effective way of securing ignition of the expanding gas, since
although the bursting of the gas container may blow out the flame
of the gasoline, the burning charcoal should immediately re-ignite
it. Nitrous oxide, hydrogen, propane, acetylene, or any other
flammable gas will do nicely.
4.0 USING EXPLOSIVES
Once a terrorist has made his explosives, the next logical
step is to apply them. Explosives have a wide range of uses, from
harassment, to vandalism, to murder. NONE OF THE IDEAS PRESENTED
HERE ARE EVER TO BE CARRIED OUT, EITHER IN PART OR IN FULL! DOING
SO CAN LEAD TO PROSECUTION, FINES, AND IMPRISONMENT!
The first step that a person that would use explosive would
take would be to determine how big an explosive device would be
needed to do whatever had to be done. Then, he would have to decide
what to make his bomb with. He would also have to decide on how he
wanted to detonate the device, and determine where the best place-
ment for it would be. Then, it would be necessary to see if the
device could be put where he wanted it without it being discovered
or moved. Finally, he would actually have to sit down and build his
explosive device. These are some of the topics covered in the next
section.
4.1 SAFETY
There is no such thing as a "safe" explosive device. One can
only speak in terms of relative safety, or less unsafe.
4.2 IGNITION DEVICES
There are many ways to ignite explosive devices. There is the
classic "light the fuse, throw the bomb, and run" approach, and
there are sensitive mercury switches, and many things in between.
Generally, electrical detonation systems are safer than fuses, but
there are times when fuses are more appropriate than electrical
systems; it is difficult to carry an electrical detonation system
into a stadium, for instance, without being caught. A device
with a fuse or impact detonating fuse would be easier to hide.
4.21 FUSE IGNITION
The oldest form of explosive ignition, fuses are perhaps the
favorite type of simple ignition system. By simply placing a piece
of waterproof fuse in a device, one can have almost guaranteed
ignition. Modern waterproof fuse is extremely reliable, burning at
a rate of about 2.5 seconds to the inch. It is available as model
rocketry fuse in most hobby shops, and costs about $3.00 for a
nine-foot length. Fuse is a popular ignition system for pipe
bombers because of its simplicity. All that need be done is light
it with a match or lighter. Of course, if the Army had fuses like
this, then the grenade, which uses fuse ignition, would be very
impracticle. If a grenade ignition system can be acquired, by all
means, it is the most effective. But, since such things do not
just float around, the next best thing is to prepare a fuse system
which does not require the use of a match or lighter, but still
retains its simplicity. One such method is described below:
MATERIALS
_________
strike-on-cover type matches
electrical tape or duct tape
waterproof fuse
1) To determine the burn rate of a particular type of fuse, simply
measure a 6 inch or longer piece of fuse and ignite it. With a
stopwatch, press the start button the at the instant when the fuse
lights, and stop the watch when the fuse reaches its end. Divide
the time of burn by the length of fuse, and you have the burn rate
of the fuse, in seconds per inch. This will be shown below:
Suppose an eight inch piece of fuse is burned, and its complete
time
of combustion is 20 seconds.
20 seconds
---------- = 2.5 seconds per inch.
8 inches
If a delay of 10 seconds was desired with this fuse, divide
the desired time by the number of seconds per inch:
10 seconds
------------------ = 4 inches
2.5 seconds / inch
NOTE: THE LENGTH OF FUSE HERE MEANS LENGTH OF FUSE TO THE POWDER.
SOME FUSE, AT LEAST AN INCH, SHOULD BE INSIDE THE DEVICE. ALWAYS
ADD THIS EXTRA INCH, AND PUT THIS EXTRA INCH AN INCH INTO THE
DEVICE!!!
2) After deciding how long a delay is desired before the explosive
device is to go off, add about 1/2 an inch to the premeasured
amount of fuse, and cut it off.
3) Carefully remove the cardboard matches from the paper match
case. Do not pull off individual matches; keep all the matches
attached to the cardboard base. Take one of the cardboard match
sections, and leave the other one to make a second igniter.
4) Wrap the matches around the end of the fuse, with the heads of
the matches touching the very end of the fuse. Tape them there
securely, making sure not to put tape over the match heads. Make
sure they are very secure by pulling on them at the base of the
assembly. They should not be able to move.
5) Wrap the cover of the matches around the matches attached to the
fuse, making sure that the striker paper is below the match heads
and the striker faces the match heads. Tape the paper so that is
fairly tight around the matches. Do not tape the cover of the
striker to the fuse or to the matches. Leave enough of the match
book to pull on for ignition.
_____________________
\ /
\ / ------ match book cover
\ /
| M|f|M ---|------- match head
| A|u|A |
| T|s|T |
| C|e|C |
|tapeH|.|Htape|
| |f| |
|#####|u|#####|-------- striking paper
|#####|s|#####|
\ |e| /
\ |.| /
\ |f| /
\ |u| /
|ta|s|pe|
|ta|e|pe|
|.|
|f|
|u|
|s|
|e|
|.|
|_|
The match book is wrapped around the matches, and is taped to
itself. The matches are taped to the fuse. The striker will rub
against the matcheads when the match book is pulled.
6) When ready to use, simply pull on the match paper. It should
pull the striking paper across the match heads with enough friction
to light them. In turn, the burning matcheads will light the fuse,
since it adjacent to the burning match heads.
4.22 IMPACT IGNITION
Impact ignition is an excellent method of ignition for sponta-
neous terrorist activities. The problem with an impact-detonating
device is that it must be kept in a very safe container so that it
will not explode while being transported to the place where it is
to be used. This can be done by having a removable impact
initiator.
The best and most reliable impact initiator is one that uses
factory made initiators or primers. A no. 11 cap for black powder
firearms is one such primer. They usually come in boxes of 100, and
cost about $2.50. To use such a cap, however, one needs a nipple
that it will fit on. Black powder nipples are also available in gun
stores. All that a person has to do is ask for a package of nipples
and the caps that fit them. Nipples have a hole that goes all the
way through them, and they have a threaded end, and an end to put
the cap on. A cutaway of a nipple is shown below:
________________
9 | |
_ |
| | |
_______| |^^^^^^^^| |
| ___________| |
| | |
no. 11 |_______| |
percussion _______ | ------- threads for screwing
cap here | | | nipple onto bomb
| |___________ |
|_______ | |
| |^^^^^^^^^| |
|_| |
|
|________________|
When making using this type of initiator, a hole must be
drilled into whatever container is used to make the bomb out of.
The nipple is then screwed into the hole so that it fits tightly.
Then, the cap can be carried and placed on the bomb when it is to
be thrown. The cap should be bent a small amount before it is
placed on the nipple, to make sure that it stays in place. The
only other problem involved with an impact detonating bomb is that
it must strike a hard surface on the nipple to set it off. By
attaching fins or a small parachute on the end of the bomb opposite
the primer, the bomb, when thrown, should strike the ground on the
primer, and explode. Of course, a bomb with mercury fulminate in
each end will go off on impact regardless of which end it strikes
on, but mercury fulminate is also likely to go off if the person
carrying the bomb is bumped hard.
4.23 ELECTRICAL IGNITION
Electrical ignition systems for detonation are usually the
safest and most reliable form of ignition. Electrical systems are
ideal for demolition work, if one doesn't have to worry so much
about being caught. With two spools of 500 ft of wire and a car
battery, one can detonate explosives from a "safe", comfortable
distance, and be sure that there is nobody around that could get
hurt. With an electrical system, one can control exactly what time
a device will explode, within fractions of a second. Detonation can
be aborted in less than a second's warning, if a person suddenly
walks by the detonation sight, or if a police car chooses to roll
by at the time. The two best electrical igniters are military
squibs and model rocketry igniters. Blasting caps for construction
also work well. Model rocketry igniters are sold in packages of
six, and cost about $1.00 per pack. All that need be done to use
them is connect it to two wires and run a current through them.
Military squibs are difficult to get, but they are a little bit
better, since they explode when a current is run through them,
whereas rocketry igniters only burst into flame. Military squibs
can be used to set off sensitive high explosives, such as R.D.X.,
or potassium chlorate mixed with petroleum jelly. Igniters can be
used to set off black powder, mercury fulminate, or guncotton,
which in turn, can set of a high order explosive.
4.24 ELECTRO-MECHANICAL IGNITION
Electro-mechanical ignition systems are systems that use some
type of mechanical switch to set off an explosive charge
electrically. This type of switch is typically used in booby traps
or other devices in which the person who places the bomb does not
wish to be anywhere near the device when it explodes. Several
types of electro-mechanical detonators will be discussed.
4.241 Mercury Switches
A Mercury switch is a switch that uses the fact that mercury
metal conducts electricity, as do all metals, but mercury metal is
a liquid at room temperatures. A typical mercury switch is a sealed
glass tube with two electrodes and a bead of mercury metal. It is
sealed because of mercury's nasty habit of giving off
brain-damaging vapors. The diagram below may help to explain a
mercury switch.
______________
A / \ B
_____wire +______/___________ \
\ ( Hg ) | /
\ _(_Hg_)__|___/
|
|
wire - |
|
|
When the drop of mercury ("Hg" is mercury's atomic symbol)
touches both contacts, current flows through the switch. If this
particular switch was in its present position, A---B, current would
be flowing, since the mercury can touch both contacts in the
horizontal position. If, however, it was in the | position, the
drop of mercury would only touch the + contact on the A side. Cur-
rent, then couldn't flow, since mercury does not reach both
contacts when the switch is in the vertical position. This type of
switch is ideal to place by a door. If it were placed in the path
of a swinging door in the verticle position, the motion of the door
would knock the switch down, if it was held to the ground by a
piece if tape. This would tilt the switch into the verticle
position, causing the mercury to touch both contacts, allowing
current to flow through the mercury, and to the igniter or squib in
an explosive device. Imagine opening a door and having it slammed
in your face by an explosion.
4.242 Tripwire Switches
A tripwire is an element of the classic booby trap. By placing a
nearly invisible line of string or fishing line in the probable
path of a victim, and by putting some type of trap there also,
nasty things can be caused to occur. If this mode of thought is
applied to explosives, how would one use such a tripwire to
detonate a bomb. The technique is simple. By wrapping the tips of
a standard clothespin with aluminum foil, and placing something
between them,
and connecting wires to each aluminum foil contact, an electric
tripwire can be made, If a piece of wood attached to the tripwire
was placed between the contacts on the clothespin, the clothespin
would serve as a switch. When the tripwire was pulled, the
clothespin would snap together, allowing current to flow between
the two pieces of aluminum foil, thereby completing a circuit,
which would have the igniter or squib in it. Current would flow
between the contacts to the igniter or squib, heat the igniter or
squib, causing it it to explode.
__________________________________
\_foil___________________________/
Insert strip of ----------------------------spring
wood with trip- _foil__________________________
wire between foil /_______________________________\
contacts.
Make sure that the aluminum foil contacts do not touch the spring,
since the spring also conducts electricity.
4.243 Radio Control Detonators
In the movies, every terrorist or criminal uses a radio controlled
detonator to set off explosives. With a good radio detonator, one
can be several miles away from the device, and still control
exactly when it explodes, in much the same way as an electrical
switch. The problem with radio detonators is that they are rather
costly. However, there could possibly be a reason that a terrorist
would wish to spend the amounts of money involved with a RC (radio
control) system and use it as a detonator. If such an individual
wanted to devise an RC detonator, all he would need to do is visit
the local hobby store or toy store, and buy a radio controlled toy.
Taking it back to his/her abode, all that he/she would have to do
is detach the solenoid/motor that controls the motion of the front
wheels of a RC car, or detach the solenoid/motor of the
elevators/rudder of a RC plane, or the rudder of a RC boat, and
re-connect the squib or rocket engine igniter to the contacts for
the solenoid/motor. The device should be tested several times with
squibs or igniters, and fully charged batteries should be in both
he controller and the receiver (the part that used to move parts
before the device became a detonator).
4.3 DELAYS
A delay is a device which causes time to pass from when a
device is set up to the time that it explodes. A regular fuse is a
delay, but it would cost quite a bit to have a 24 hour delay with a
fuse. This section deals with the different types of delays that
can be employed by a terrorist who wishes to be sure that his bomb
will go off, but wants to be out of the country when it does.
4.31 FUSE DELAYS
It is extremely simple to delay explosive devices that employ
fuses for ignition. Perhaps the simplest way to do so is with a
cigarette. An average cigarette burns for about 8 minutes. The
higher the "tar" and nicotine rating, the slower the cigarette
burns. Low "tar" and nicotine cigarettes burn quicker than the
higher "tar" and nicotine cigarettes, but they are also less likely
to go out if left unattended, i.e. not smoked. Depending on the
wind or draft in a given place, a high "tar" cigarette is better
for delaying the ignition of a fuse, but there must be enough wind
or draft to give the cigarette enough oxygen to burn. People who
use cigarettes for the purpose of delaying fuses will often test
the cigarettes that they plan to use in advance to make sure
they stay lit and to see how long it will burn. Once a cigarettes
burn rate is determined, it is a simple matter of carefully putting
a hole all the way through a cigarette with a toothpick at the
point desired, and pushing the fuse for a device in the hole
formed.
|=|
|=| ---------- filter
|=|
| |
| |
|o| ---------- hole for fuse
cigarette ------------ | |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
|_| ---------- light this end
A similar type of device can be make from powdered charcoal
and a sheet of paper. Simply roll the sheet of paper into a thin
tube, and fill it with powdered charcoal. Punch a hole in it at the
desired location, and insert a fuse. Both ends must be glued
closed, and one end of the delay must be doused with lighter fluid
before it is lit. Or, a small charge of gunpowder mixed with
powdered charcoal could conceivably used for igniting such a delay.
A chain of charcoal briquettes can be used as a delay by merely
lining up a few bricks of charcoal so that they touch each other,
end on end, and lighting the first brick. Incense, which can be
purchased at almost any novelty or party supply store, can also be
used as a fairly reliable delay. By wrapping the fuse about the end
of an incense stick, delays of up to 1/2 an hour are possible.
Finally, it is possible to make a relatively slow-burning fuse in
the home. By dissolving about one teaspoon of black powder in about
1/4 a cup of boiling water, and, while it is still hot, soaking in
it a long piece of all cotton string, a slow-burning fuse can be
made. After the soaked string dries, it must then be tied to the
fuse of an explosive device. Sometimes, the end of the slow burning
fuse that meets the normal fuse has a charge of black powder or
gunpowder at the intersection point to insure ignition, since the
slow-burning fuse does not burn at a very high temperature. A
similar type of slow fuse can be made by taking the above mixture
of boiling water and black powder and pouring it on a long piece of
toilet paper. The wet toilet paper is then gently twisted up so
that it resembles a firecracker fuse, and is allowed to dry.
4.32 TIMER DELAYS
Timer delays, or "time bombs" are usually employed by an
individual who wishes to threaten a place with a bomb and demand
money to reveal its location and means to disarm it. Such a device
could be placed in any populated place if it were concealed
properly. There are several ways to build a timer delay. By simply
using a screw as one contact at the time that detonation is
desired, and using the hour hand of a clock as the other contact, a
simple timer can be made. The minute hand of a clock should be
removed, unless a delay of less than an hour is desired.
___________________________________ to igniter from igniter
| |
| 12 | : :
| 11 1 | : :
| | : :
| 10 2 | : :
| o................|......: :
| | :
| 9 3 | :
| | :
| | :
| 8 4 | :
| o.........|...... :
| 7 5 | : :
| 6 | :.+.....-.....:
|__________________________________| __|_____|
| |
| battery |
o - contacts | |
..... - wire | |
|___________|
This device is set to go off in eleven hours. When the hour
hand of the clock reaches the contact near the numeral 5, it will
complete the circuit, allowing current to flow through the igniter
or squib.
The main disadvantage with this type of timer is that it can
only be set for a maximum time of 12 hours. If an electronic timer
is used, such as that in an electronic clock, then delays of up to
24 hours are possible. By removing the speaker from an electronic
clock, and attaching the wires of a squib or igniter to them, a
timer with a delay of up to 24 hours can be made. To utilize
this type of timer, one must have a socket that the clock can be
plugged into. All that one has to do is set the alarm time of the
clock to the desired time, connect the leads, and go away. This
could also be done with an electronic watch, if a larger battery
were used, and the current to the speaker of the watch was stepped
up via a transformer. This would be good, since such a timer
could be extremely small. The timer in a VCR (Video Cassette
Recorder) would be ideal. VCR's can usually be set for times of up
to a week. The leads from the timer to the recording equipment
would be the ones that an igniter or squib would be connected to.
Also, one can buy timers from electronics stores that would be
ideal. Finally, one could employ a digital watch, and use a relay,
or electro-magnetic switch to fire the igniter, and the current of
the watch would not have to be stepped up.
4.33 CHEMICAL DELAYS
Chemical delays are uncommon, but they can be extremely effec-
tive in some cases. If a glass container is filled with concentra-
ted sulfuric acid, and capped with several thicknesses of aluminum
foil, or a cap that it will eat through, then it can be used as a
delay. Sulfuric acid will react with aluminum foil to produce
aluminum sulfate and hydrogen gas, and so the container must be
open to the air on one end so that the pressure of the hydrogen gas
that is forming does not break the container. See diagram on follo-
wing page.
_ _
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| |_____________| |
| | | |
| | sulfuric | |
| | | |
| | acid | |
| | | |---------- aluminum foil
| |_____________| | (several thicknesses)
|_________________|
The aluminum foil is placed over the bottom of the container
and secured there with tape. When the acid eats through the
aluminum foil, it can be used to ignite an explosive device in
several ways.
1) Sulfuric acid is a good conductor of electricity. If the
acid that eats through the foil is collected in a glass container
placed underneath the foil, and two wires are placed in the glass
container, a current will be able to flow through the acid when
both of the wires are immersed in the acid.
2) Sulfuric acid reacts very violently with potassium
chlorate. If the acid drips down into a container containing
potassium chlorate, the potassium chlorate will burst into flame.
This flame can be used to ignite a fuse, or the potassium chlorate
can be the igniter for a thermit bomb, if some potassium chlorate
is mixed in a 50/50 ratio with the thermit, and this mixture is
used as an igniter for the rest of the thermit.
3) Sulfuric acid reacts with potassium permangenate in a
similar way.
4.4 EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS
This section will cover everything from making a simple fire-
cracker to a complicated scheme for detonating an insensitive high
explosive, both of which are methods that could be utilized by
perpetrators of terror.
4.41 PAPER CONTAINERS
Paper was the first container ever used for explosives, since
it was first used by the Chinese to make fireworks. Paper
containers are usually very simple to make, and are certainly the
cheapest. There are many possible uses for paper in containing
explosives, and the two most obvious are in firecrackers and rocket
engines. Simply by rolling up a long sheet of paper, and gluing it
together, one can make a simple rocket engine. Perhaps a more
interesting and dangerous use is in the firecracker. The
firecracker shown here is one of Mexican design. It is called a
"polumna", meaning "dove". The process of their manufacture is not
unlike that of making a paper football. If one takes a sheet of
paper about 16 inches in length by 1.5 inches wide, and fold one
corner so that it looks like this:
________________________________________________________
| |\
| | \
| | \
|______________________________________________________|___\
and then fold it again so that it looks like this:
_______________________________________________________
| /|
| / |
| / |
|__________________________________________________/___|
A pocket is formed. This pocket can be filled with black
powder, pyrodex, flash powder, gunpowder,rocket engine powder, or
any of the quick-burning fueloxodizer mixtures that occur in the
form of a fine powder. A fuse is then inserted, and one continues
the triangular folds, being careful not to spill out any of the
explosive. When the polumna is finished, it should be taped
together very tightly, since this will increase the strength of the
container, and produce a louder and more powerful explosion when it
is lit. The finished polumna should look like a 1/4 inch - 1/3
inch thick triangle, like the one shown below:
^
/ \ ----- securely tape all corners
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \____________________________
/_____________\__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/ ---------- fuse
4.42 METAL CONTAINERS
The classic pipe bomb is the best known example of a
metal-contained explosive. Idiot anarchists take white tipped
matches and cut off the match heads. They pound one end of a pipe
closed with a hammer, pour in the white tipped matches, and then
pound the other end closed. This process often kills the fool,
since when he pounds the pipe closed, he could very easily cause
enough friction between the match heads to cause them to ignite and
explode the unfinished bomb. By using pipe caps, the process is
somewhat safer, and the
less stupid anarchist would never use white tipped matches in a
bomb. He would buy two pipe caps and threaded pipe (fig. 1).
First, he would drill a hole in one pipe cap, and put a fuse in it
so that it will not come out, and so powder will not escape during
handling. The fuse would be at least 3/4 an inch long inside the
bomb. He would then screw the cap with the fuse in it on tightly,
possibly putting a drop of super glue on it to hold it tight. He
would then pour his explosive powder in the bomb. To pack it
tightly, he would take a large wad of tissue paper and, after
filling the pipe to the very top, pack the powder down, by using
the paper as a ramrod tip, and pushing it with a pencil or other
wide ended object, until it would not move any further. Finally,
he would screw the other pipe cap on, and glue it.
The tissue paper would help prevent some of the powder from being
caught in the threads of the pipe or pipe cap from being crushed
and subject to friction, which might ignite the powder, causing an
explosion during manufacture. An assembled bomb is shown in fig. 2.
_________ _______________ __________
| | ^^^^^^ ^^^^^^ | |
| |vvvvv| |_________________________| |vvvvvv| |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | ___________________________ | |
| | | | | |
| |^^^^^| vvvvvv_______________vvvvvv |^^^^^^| |
|_______| |________|
fig 1. Threaded pipe and endcaps.
________ ________
| _____|________________________________|_____ |
| |__________________________________________| |
| |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| |
| | tissue | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |_|
| | : : : |- - - low order explosive - - ----------------------
| | paper | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |-| fuse
| |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| |
| |________|_________________________________| |
| |__________________________________________| |
|______| |______|
endcap pipe endcap
w/ hole
fig. 2 Assembled pipe bomb.
This is one possible design that a mad bomber would use. If,
however, he did not have access to threaded pipe with endcaps, he
could always use a piece of copper or aluminum pipe, since it is
easily bent into a suitable position. A major problem with copper
piping, however, is bending and folding it without tearing it; if
too much force is used when folding and bending copper pipe, it
will split along the fold. The safest method for making a pipe
bomb out of copper or aluminum pipe is similar to the method with
pipe and endcaps. First, one flattens one end of a copper or
aluminum pipe carefully, making sure not to tear or rip the piping.
Then, the flat end of the pipe should be folded over at least once,
if this does not rip the pipe. A fuse hole should be drilled in
the pipe near the now closed end, and the fuse should be inserted.
Next, the bomb-builder would fill the bomb with a low order
explosive, and pack it with a large wad of tissue paper. He would
then flatten and fold the other end of the pipe with a pair of
pliers. If he was not too dumb, he would do this slowly, since the
process of folding and bending metal gives off heat, which could
set off the explosive. A diagram is presented below:
________
_______________________________________________/ |
| |
| o |
|______________________________________________ |
\_______|
fig. 1 pipe with one end flattened and fuse hole drilled (top view)
______
____________________________________________/ | |
| | |
| o | |
|___________________________________________ | |
\__|__|
fig. 2 pipe with one end flattened and folded up (top view)
____________ fuse hole
|
v
_________________________________________________
| \ |____ |
| \____| |
| ______|
| /
|_____________________________/__________________
fig. 3 pipe with flattened and folded end (side view)
_________________ fuse
/
|
________ ______________________________|___ _______
| ____| / |- - - - - - - - - - -| - - \ |___ |
| |_____/tissue| - - - - - - - - - - - -|- - \_____| |
|________ paper |- - - low order explosive - _______|
\ | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - /
\_____________________________________/
fig. 4 completed bomb, showing tissue paper packing and explosive
(side view)
A CO2 cartridge from a B.B gun is another excellent container
for a low-order explosive. It has one minor disadvantage: it is
time consuming to fill. But this can be rectified by widening the
opening of the cartridge with a pointed tool. Then, all that would
have to be done is to fill the CO2 cartridge with any low-order
explosive, or any of the fast burning fuel-oxodizer mixtures, and
insert a fuse. These devices are commonly called "crater makers".
A CO2 cartridge also works well as a container for a thermit
incendiary device, but it must be modified. The opening in the end
must be widened, so that the ignition mixture, such as powdered
magnesium, does not explode. The fuse will ignite the powdered
magnesium, which, in turn, would ignite the thermit.
The previously mentioned designs for explosive devices are
fine for low-order explosives, but are unsuitable for high-order
explosives, since the latter requires a shockwave to be detonated.
A design employing a smaller low-order explosive device inside a
larger device containing a high-order explosive would probably be
used. It would look something like:
_______________________ fuse
|
|
|
_________ | _________
| ____|__________________________|___________|____ |
| | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *|* * * * * * * | |
| | * * * * * * high explosive | * * * * * * * | |
| | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *|* * * * * * * | |
| | * ______ _______________|_ ______ * | |
| | * * | __| / - - - - - - | \ |__ | * | |
| | * | |____/ low explosive - \____| | * | |
| | * * |_______ - - - - - - - - - _______| * | |
| | * * * * * \ - - - - - - - - / * * * * * | |
| | * * * * * * \_________________/ * * * * * | |
| | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * | |
| | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * | |
| | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * | |
| |______________________________________________| |
|_______| |_______|
If the large high explosive container is small, such as a CO2
cartridge, then a segment of a hollow radio antenna can be made
into a low-order pipe bomb, which can be fitted with a fuse, and
inserted into the CO2 cartridge.
4.43 GLASS CONTAINERS
Glass containers can be suitable for low-order explosives, but
there are problems with them. First, a glass container can be
broken relatively easily compared to metal or plastic containers.
Secondly, in the not-too-unlikely event of an "accident", the
person making the device would probably be seriously injured, even
if the device was small. A bomb made out of a sample perfume
bottle-sized container exploded in the hands of one boy, and he
still has pieces of glass in his hand. He is also missing the
final segment of his ring finger, which was cut off by a sharp
piece of flying glass...
Nonetheless, glass containers such as perfume bottles can be
used by a demented individual, since such a device would not be
detected by metal detectors in an airport or other public place.
All that need be done is fill the container, and drill a hole in
the plastic cap that the fuse fits tightly in, and screw the
cap-fuse assembly on.
________________________ fuse
|
|
|
_____|_____
| ___|___ |
| > | < | drill hole in cap, and insert fuse;
| > | < | be sure fuse will not come out of cap
| > | < |
| | |
| |
| |
| | screw cap on bottle
| |
| |
V V
_________
< >
< >
< >
/ \
/ \
/ \
| | fill bottle with low-order explosive
| |
| |
| |
| |
|___________|
Large explosive devices made from glass containers are not
practicle, since glass is not an exceptionally strong container.
Much of the explosive that is used to fill the container is wasted
if the container is much larger than a 16 oz. soda bottle. Also,
glass containers are usually unsuitable for high explosive devices,
since a glass container would probably not withstand the explosion
of the initiator; it would shatter before the high explosive was
able to detonate.
4.44 PLASTIC CONTAINERS
Plastic containers are perhaps the best containers for
explosives, since they can be any size or shape, and are not
fragile like glass. Plastic piping can be bought at hardware or
plumbing stores, and a device much like the ones used for metal
containers can be made. The high-order version works well with
plastic piping. If the entire device is made out of plastic, it is
not detectable by metal detectors. Plastic containers can usually
be shaped by heating the container, and bending it at the
appropriate place. They can be
glued closed with epoxy or other cement for plastics. Epoxy alone
can be used as an endcap, if a wad of tissue paper is placed in the
piping. Epoxy with a drying agent works best in this type of
device.
|| ||
|| ||
||\_____________/||
|| ||
|| epoxy ||
||_______________||
|| ||
|| tissue ||
|| paper ||
||_______________||
||***************||
||***************||
||***************||
||***************||
||** explosive **||
||***************||
||***********----------------------- fuse
||***************||
||DDDDDDDDDDDDDDD||
|| ||
|| tissue ||
|| paper ||
||_______________||
|| ||
|| epoxy ||
|| _____________ ||
||/ \||
|| ||
|| ||
One end must be made first, and be allowed to dry completely
before the device can be filled with powder and fused. Then, with
another piece of tissue paper, pack the powder tightly, and cover
it with plenty of epoxy. PVC pipe works well for this type of
device, but it cannot be used if the pipe had an inside diameter
greater than 3/4 of an inch. Other plastic puttys can be used in
this type of device, but epoxy with a drying agent works best.
4.5 ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES
The techniques presented here are those that could be used by
a person who had some degree of knowledge of the use of explosives.
Some of this information comes from demolitions books, or from
military handbooks. Advanced uses for explosives usually involved
shaped charges, or utilize a minimum amount of explosive to do a
maximum amount of damage. They almost always involve high-order
explosives.
4.51 SHAPED CHARGES
A shaped charge is an explosive device that, upon detonation,
directs the explosive force of detonation at a small target area.
This process can be used to breach the strongest armor, since
forces of literally millions of pounds of pressure per square inch
can be generated. Shaped charges employ high-order explosives, and
usually electric ignition systems. KEEP IN MIND THAT ALL EXPLOSIVES
ARE DANGEROUS, AND SHOULD NEVER BE MADE OR USED!!
An example of a shaped charge is shown below.
+ wire ________ _______ - wire
| |
| |
| |
_ _________|_________|____________
^ | ________|_________|__________ |
| | | | | | |
| | | \ igniter / | |
| | | \_______/ | |
| | | priming charge | |
| | | (mercury fulminate) | |
| | | ^ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | / \ | |
8 inches high | | / \ | |
| | / high \ | |
| | | / explosive \ | |
| | | / charge \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | |/ \| |
| | | ^ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | | ------- 1/2 inch
| | | / \ | | thick steel
| | | / \ | | pipe
| | | / \ | |
| | |/ \| |
| hole for | | | | hole for
| screw | | | | screw
| | | | |
V_______ ___________| | | |___________ ________
|______| |____________| |_____________| |______|
|<------- 8 inches -------->|
If a device such as this is screwed to a safe, for example, it
would direct most of the explosive force at a point about 1 inch
away from the opening of the pipe. The basis for shaped charges is
a cone-shaped opening in the explosive material. This cone should
have an angle of 45 degrees. A device such as this one could also
be attached to a metal surface with a powerful electromagnet.
4.52 TUBE EXPLOSIVES
A variation on shaped charges, tube explosives can be used in
ways that shaped charges cannot. If a piece of 1/2 inch plastic
tubing was filled with a sensitive high explosive like R.D.X.,
and prepared as the plastic explosive container in section 4.44, a
different sort of shaped charge could be produced; a charge that
directs explosive force in a circular manner. This type of
explosive could be wrapped around a column, or a doorknob, or a
telephone pole. The explosion would be directed in and out, and
most likely destroy whatever it was wrapped around. In an unbent
state, a tube explosive would look like this:
|| ||
|| ||
||\____/||
|| epoxy||
||______||
|| ||
||tissue||
|| paper||
||______||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
|| RDX ||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
|| ____ ||
|| | s| ||
|| | q| ||
|| | u| ||
|| | i| ||
|| | b| ||
|| | b| ||
|| |__| ||
||__||__||
||tissue||
|| paper||
||__||__||
|| || ||
|| epoxy||
|| || ||
|| _||_ ||
||/ || \||
|| || ||
|| || ||
||_______ + wire ______________
|
|________ - wire ______________
When an assassin or terrorist wishes to use a tube bomb, he
must wrap it around whatever thing he wishes to destroy, and epoxy
the ends of the tube bomb together. After it dries, he/she can
connect wires to the squib wires, and detonate the bomb, with any
method of electric detonation.
4.53 ATOMIZED PARTICLE EXPLOSIONS
If a highly flammable substance is atomized, or divided into
very small particles, and large amounts of it is burned in a
confined area, an explosion similar to that occurring in the
cylinder of an automobile is produced. The tiny droplets of
gasoline burn in the air, and the hot gasses expand rapidly,
pushing the cylinder up. Similarly, if a gallon of gasoline was
atomized and
ignited in a building, it is very possible that the expanding
gassed would push the walls of the building down. This phenomenon
is called an atomized particle explosion. If a person can
effectively atomize a large amount of a highly flammable substance
and ignite it, he could bring down a large building, bridge, or
other structure. Atomizing a large amount of gasoline, for example,
can be extremely difficult, unless one has the aid of a high
explosive. If a gallon
jug of gasoline was placed directly over a high explosive charge,
and the charge was detonated, the gasoline would instantly be
atomized and ignited. If this occurred in a building, for example,
an atomized particle explosion would surely occur. Only a small
amount of high explosive would be necessary to accomplish this
feat, about 1/2 a pound of T.N.T. or 1/4 a pound of R.D.X. Also,
instead
of gasoline, powdered aluminum could be used. It is necessary that
a high explosive be used to atomize a flammable material, since a
low-order explosion does not occur quickly enough to atomize or
ignite the flammable material.
4.54 LIGHTBULB BOMBS
An automatic reaction to walking into a dark room is to turn on
the light. This can be fatal, if a lightbulb bomb has been placed
in the overhead light socket. A lightbulb bomb is surprisingly
easy to make. It also comes with its own initiator and electric
ignition system. On some lightbulbs, the lightbulb glass can be
removed from the metal base by heating the base of a lightbulb in a
gas flame, such as that of a blowtorch or gas stove. This must be
done carefully, since the inside of a lightbulb is a vacuum. When
the glue gets hot enough, the glass bulb can be pulled off the
metal base. On other bulbs, it is necessary to heat the glass
directly with a blowtorch or oxy-acetylene torch. When the bulb is
red hot, a hole must be carefully poked in the bulb, remembering
the vacuum state inside the bulb. In either case, once the bulb
and/or base has cooled down to room temperature or lower, the bulb
can be filled with an explosive material, such as black powder. If
the glass was removed from the metal base, it must be glued back on
to the base
with epoxy. If a hole was put in the bulb, a piece of duct tape is
sufficient to hold the explosive in the bulb. Then, after making
sure that the socket has no power by checking with a working
lightbulb, all that need be done is to screw the lightbulb bomb
into the socket. Such a device has been used by terrorists or
assassins with much success, since nobody can search the room for a
bomb without first turning on the light.
4.55 BOOK BOMBS
Concealing a bomb can be extremely difficult in a day and age
where perpetrators of violence run wild. Bags and briefcases are
often searched by authorities whenever one enters a place where an
individual might intend to set off a bomb. One approach to
disguising a bomb is to build what is called a book bomb; an
explosive device that is entirely contained inside of a book.
Usually, a relatively large book is required, and the book must be
of the hardback variety to hide any protrusions of a bomb.
Dictionaries, law books, large textbooks, and other such books work
well. When an individual makes a bookbomb, he/she must choose a
type of book that is appropriate for the place where the book bomb
will be placed. The actual construction of a book bomb can be done
by anyone who possesses an electric drill and a coping saw. First,
all of the pages of the book must be glued together. By pouring
an entire container of water-soluble glue into a large bucket, and
filling the bucket with boiling water, a glue-water solution can be
made that will hold all of the book's pages together tightly.
After the glue-water solution has cooled to a bearable temperature,
and the solution has been stirred well, the pages of the book must
be immersed in the glue-water solution, and each page must be
thoroughly soaked. It is extremely important that the covers of
the book do not get stuck to the pages of the book while the pages
are drying. Suspending the book by both covers and clamping the
pages together in a vice works best. When the pages dry, after
about three days to a week, a hole must be drilled into the now
rigid pages, and they should drill out much like wood. Then, by
inserting the coping saw blade through the pages and sawing out a
rectangle from the middle of the book, the individual will be left
with a shell of the book's pages. The pages, when drilled out,
should look like this:
________________________
| ____________________ |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| |__________________| |
|______________________|
(book covers omitted)
This rectangle must be securely glued to the back cover of the
book. After building his/her bomb, which usually is of the timer or
radio controlled variety, the bomber places it inside the book.
The bomb itself, and whatever timer or detonator is used, should be
packed in foam to prevent it from rolling or shifting about.
Finally, after the timer is set, or the radio control has been
turned on, the front cover is glued closed, and the bomb is taken
to its destination.
4.56 PHONE BOMBS
The phone bomb is an explosive device that has been used in
the past to kill or injure a specific individual. The basic idea
is simple: when the person answers the phone, the bomb explodes.
If a small but powerful high explosive device with a squib was
placed in the phone receiver, when the current flowed through the
receiver, the squib would explode, detonating the high explosive in
the person's hand. Nasty! All that has to be done is acquire a
squib, and tape the receiver switch down. Unscrew the mouthpiece
cover, and remove the speaker, and connect the squib's leads where
it was.
Place a high explosive putty, such as C-1 (see section 3.31) in the
receiver, and screw the cover on, making sure that the squib is
surrounded by the C-1. Hang the phone up, and leave the tape in
place. When the individual to whom the phone belongs attempts to
answer the phone, he will notice the tape, and remove it. This
will allow current to flow through the squib. Note that the device
will not explode by merely making a phone call; the owner of the
phone must lift up the receiver, and remove the tape. It is highly
probable that the phone will be by his/her ear when the device
explodes...
5.0 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS
Explosive and/or poisoned ammunition is an important part of a
social deviant's arsenal. Such ammunition gives the user a
distinct advantage over individual who use normal ammunition, since
a grazing hit is good enough to kill. Special ammunition can be
made for many types of weapons, from crossbows to shotguns.
5.1 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PRIMITIVE WEAPONS
For the purposes of this publication, we will call any weapon
primitive that does not employ burning gunpowder to propel a
projectile forward. This means blowguns, bows and crossbows, and
wristrockets.
5.11 BOW AND CROSSBOW AMMUNITION
Bows and crossbows both fire arrows or bolts as ammunition.
It is extremely simple to poison an arrow or bolt, but it is a more
difficult matter to produce explosive arrows or bolts. If,
however, one can acquire aluminum piping that is the same diameter
of an arrow or crossbow bolt, the entire segment of piping can be
converted into an explosive device that detonates upon impact, or
with a fuse. All that need be done is find an aluminum tube of the
right length and diameter, and plug the back end with tissue paper
and epoxy. Fill the tube with any type of low-order explosive or
sensitive high-order explosive up to about 1/2 an inch from the
top. Cut a slot in the piece of tubing, and carefully squeeze the
top of the tube into a round point, making sure to leave a small
hole. Place a no. 11 percussion cap over the hole, and secure it
with super glue. Finally, wrap the end of the device with
electrical
or duct tape, and make fins out of tape. Or, fins can be bought at
a sporting goods store, and glued to the shaft. The finished
product should look like:
_____
| | ---------- no. 11 percussion cap
||*||
|*|
|*|
|*|
|*|
|*|
|*| ----------- aluminum piping
|*|
|e|
|x|
|p|
|l|
|o|
