People’s Republic of China

9th-19th December 2004

 

After a delayed start sitting on the aeroplane on the Heathrow runway, once we touched down in Beijing our China tour got off to a quick start – no time even for lunch! We met our Beijing native guide, Henry (his English name) and were whisked away by coach to downtown Beijing to see the sights of Tiananmen Square. The Chinese were preparing for the ceremonial flag lowering which occurs exactly at sundown. Although it was still and hour and a half away, the crowd was already several layers thick! Others were simply enjoying the space that the huge square offers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Our tour of Beijing sights continued with a visit to the Great Wall at Badaling. I thought the Wall was amazing, working its way, seemingly unhurriedly, along the tops of the ridge of hills, following every dip and rise. Beautiful panoramic views were offered over the receding hills.

 

 

We toured and then lunched at an enamelware factory making exquisite enamel vases, pots, saucers, keyrings, bracelets among random dust collectors.

 

We then carried on to the Ming Tombs. Supper was followed by an amazing Chinese acrobat show. The people hardly seemed human. Their joints certainly aren’t! Finally sleep…

 

Although we checked out of our hotel, we still had several more sites to see. After a drive through the ‘Silicon Valley’ district of Beijing, we arrived at Nathan and Lisa’s flat. They were Henry’s friends described as ‘middle class Beijing residents’. This was an outing instead of going to a farm as the risk from bird flu was deemed to high. In fact their flat seemed pretty normal but nice, the only difference being their countertops – several inches lower than Western kitchens!

 

 

 

We only had the afternoon left in Beijing and this was spent at the Forbidden City, where the Emperor and his Empresses and concubines lived. Roof tops over rooftops and courtyards after courtyards. If one was to sleep in each room for one night from the day you were born, it is said you would be 27 years old before you had slept in every room!

 

A quick supper and then off to catch the overnight train to Xi’an. Experiences of other trains and others’ stories had me expecting a drafty, rickety old train with broken windows and a rock hard ‘bed’. Instead it was one that even came with personal TVs and headsets! Even the toilets worked for several hours… I think the gentle trundling of the train rocked me to sleep and the opposite from what I expected, I probably had my best sleep of the trip on there!

 

 

When I awoke we were just pulling into Xi’an station. First thing to hit me was the smog… Our sightseeing began with supposedly viewing the city from the 600-year-old city wall gate… the gate itself was pretty at least… I guess it adds to the city atmosphere? By then end of being up on the wall I decided if I had to spend any more time there I would certainly invest in one of the masks some of the Chinese so intelligently wear! I began to appreciate the colour the huge advertising signs added to the streets.

 

 

 

We then drove by coach out of Xi’an to reach the site of the Terracotta warriors, about 1½ hours on a vaguely paved road. I enjoyed seeing our fellow road users. Certainly a variety of styles and modes of travel!

 


 

 

The warriors themselves were pretty amazing. And so far they’ve only recovered about 1/3 of the warriors – that they know about. Definitely a work in progress! It’s mind boggling to imagine how so many life size figures could have been made 2000 years ago – and then for some vandals to have broken them up just a few years after the finishing touches were made.

 

During the evening we had a chance to wander through the night stalls in the Muslim quarter and then watched the ‘Tang Dynasty’, a Chinese opera, right from our supper seats.

 

 

In the morning we rushed to leave early, only to discover at the airport that our flight was delayed due to ‘atmospheric conditions’. Not surprising, remembering the apparent view from the city gate. Anyway eventually we arrived in Wuhan, ready for out 5 ½ hour coach ride out to the Three Gorges Dam. The journey along the ‘express way’ joggled us along through rice paddies, fish ponds, the occasional water buffalo, and cotton fields.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

In the morning we met our ‘intellect’ who, through Emily, our English speaking guide, explained the design and functions of the dam. Of course we got to spend time at the dam too looking at it from several spots and angles.

 

 

 

 

Later in the morning we visited an orange grove farmer. I had visions of huge citrus orchards with orderly rows upon rows of trees… in fact the ‘grove’ consisted of trees dotted around, straddling the hill side as we walked up to the farmer’s home. I think I quite liked it the way it was though.

 

The family were very hospitable, giving us their oranges to sample and showing us their kitchen – the centre piece a big stainless steal rice cooker – and their living room – sparse save for posters of Mao and a brand spanking new TV.

 

 

 

 

Then we had a chance to wander through the village. Walking along the path we could hear children’s laughter and Mr Hall scouted out a primary school. So many happy smiling faces! I think we disturbed their lunch but their teacher didn’t mind and they certainly didn’t either! They were certainly a highlight of my day, maybe the whole trip too. I think we made their day too! Their teacher explained to us why they were so interested to see us and why they thought we were so funny – we were probably the first non Asian people they had ever seen! Of course I couldn’t understand what they were saying, but probably ‘oooohhh weird… blonde hair…cool dude!’

 

Our visit had to be curtailed with the reminder that we still had to drive all the way back to Wuhan that day.

 

 

 

An even earlier wake up call this morning, in order to catch a flight to Hong Kong.

At least that gave us plenty of time in the afternoon for sightseeing around Hong Kong. We found lunch up on the top of Victoria Peak, offering aerial views of Hong Kong city and overlooking to Kowloon Island and the New Territories in the distance.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


We drove down to the other side of the island to Aberdeen Harbour. We had an up close and personal tour of the harbour in a sampan, a traditional style boat. Out boat operator took us through the rabbit warren of moored fishing boats. There was certainly a contrast between this way of life and the tall tall skyscrapers rising from the hills behind.

 

I found it hard to get my mind round the size of them – just a single block could fit the population of two Malverns or more than the whole of Bermuda! No wonder they have such a high packing density and yet plenty of room for open space.

 

 

Evening was falling just as we passed a Buddhist temple. We watched the sunset and stroked the Buddha’s tummies. Unfortunately the Money Buddha was a bit too popular and I couldn’t even find the end of the line! Anyway I walked across the little red bridge a couple of times which apparently extends your life by a few days with every crossing!

 

The evening was spent at the Mong Kok night markets. Scarves, belts, handbags, watches, shirts, so many name brands – so many fakes! But fun all the same.

 

The following day we were taken out to lunch by the Yums, a very generous family with sons who are/went to Malvern. To truly spoil us they then took us out in their luxury motor yacht around the coast to Stanley market, another hotspot for all you can buy bargains. Then back round to Aberdeen Harbour for our supper on the Jumbo floating restaurant. Still a whole evening ahead of us – back to Mong Kok to use up some more money!

 

 

The next day we had to say good bye to Hong Kong and the warm weather. On our return to Beijing I found I really did need my down jacket and I began to believe the predictions of -40C weather! The English ‘big noses’ certainly catch the cool air to turn many of us into ‘big red noses’. We visited the Summer palace, residence of the emperor during the summer months, although now the lake had sheets of ice floating idyllically over it with a dusting of snow.

 

Our final dinner included the Beijing showpiece dish- Peking Duck. A skilled carver carved up the duck before our eyes into exactly (so they say) 120 pieces, each with skin and delectable meat. A waitress showed us the technique of eating the dish – several pieces of duck dipped into sweet plum sauce and laid in the middle of a pancake. A few julienne shallots sprinkled on top and then folded carefully into a parcel and then eaten – all with just chopsticks (supposedly). Hmmm.

 

 

This spectacular whirlwind tour of just a few of China’s sights left me with a few thoughts on the identity of China

 

…You know you’re in China when…

 

… you find that you are the tourist attraction

     


   

… you find food in the red light district

 


 

…prices drop faster than shooting stars and yet someone else will always have found the same for less

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


…everyone supports the government

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


…you can keep fit just by not spitting

      at least according to signs on the Great Wall

 

…camel humps, deer lips and scorpions are delicacies

      Luckily we were never treated to such dishes!

 

 

… the children are always, always smiling

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


     

 

 

 

… and the only rubbish to be found is on an English group’s tour bus

 

 

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