nothing fit so the man brought me to another table. The man couldn't speak, but we used basic sign language. He had prices written on cardboard and would point to it and then to the price. I ended up buying two rings. They were silver and the settings very different. They seemed older. One had a round amethyst color stone and the other wasn't opal but would show different colors in the sun. The opal like one was set up from the base and the lid opened, maybe it is an old snuff style ring. I bought the two rings for 44 rupies, which is about $6.00 US. I was only going to give him $4.00, but felt bad so I gave him the extra 40 rupies which is about 50 cents to me and it means so much more to him.
By 2:00 we got to our destination, Pisang, checked into Hotel Maya. We are at 10,500. We started at 2,690 feet. This is where we could start feeling altitude sickness.
When we were walking into town we saw a whole bunch of buildings clustered in the hills. They looked deserted and rundown, but I guess they all look that way. Anyway, I saw one on top and it looked nice and new. That was when they told me it was a temple.
A bunch of us walked to the top to the temple. My breathing was a little labored, I think because of the altitude. We had beautiful views of Annapurna II at the top where the temple was. I think there are four peaks of Annapurna. We could see Annapurna II from below, but this view was better. There were some clouds obstructing parts of it.
When we were making our way down we stopped in the little village that looked deserted and basically was. We found out that most of the people were gathered in a building because there was a lama there and they were praying and chanting. We then saw a lot of people coming out, mostly old. They had their prayer beads and prayer wheels (I think that's what they were). There was a group that came out all happy and dancing. I asked her to take her picture. I did, but she wanted money. I said no maney and walked away. Since I mentioned the prayer wheels I will tell you a little about them. We have come across many of them in towns. Usually there will be a long wall with many wheels the length of the wall. On the wheel there is a mantra written on it, "Om mani Padme Hum" which means "Hail to the Jewel of the Lotus", the jewel being Buddha. When you go by these wheels you are suppose to turn them clockwise and you repeat the chant. The mantra is also written on the prayer flags. Sometimes you see the flags individually, other times together. I asked if there was a significant reason of the colors. One of the guides told us that the first color, blue, is shy, second, white, is clouds, third, red, is fire, fourth, green is water, yellow is crops. It is believed that the more times this chant is prayed the greater protection against evil. The flags have this mantra written over and over and it releases the magical power into the winds.
We made our way down from the village. I found Laurie amusing the guides and porters with her top; her shortwave radio, MP3 player, and her Lingo calculator which translates different languages. I then brought out my games. I tried to remember how to play checkers, but I forgot. I taught Singa and Pratik how to play Chinese checkers. They had fun. Then this other porter/guide wanted to play chess. I told him I really don't play, but I can move the pieces. So we played. I conceded when I only had a King and knight left. We all had fun. It was a good day. My ankle is healing and so far my stomach is doing better. I am really having a hard time with some of the food. I gave part of my dinner to Nar. Later I was hungry. I found Nar and asked him to get me some cookies and a coke. Speaking of Coke, I found a diet one yesterday at one woman's stand. I bought it, carried it. By the time I drank it, it was warm, and not that good.
April 26, 2003
I can't believe that we have only been in Nepal for one week. We have seen so much.
Last night I woke up and I had a hard time breathing. It scared me. I tried to concentrate on my breathing, slow and deep. Eventually, I was OK and went back to sleep. I don't know if it was the altitude or the bad dream I had. Everytime I woke up I was aware of how I was breathing. The only possible symptom I have of altitude sickness is the headache. I think I have taken more pills in this short time than I did on the whole AT.
The sky was clear this morning. It seems to always be clear in the morning, but doesn't stay that way. The views are really getting beautiful.
Right from the start I noticed that breathing is a little more difficult, even on the flat areas. I made sure I paced myself, very slow. I used the rest step and pressure breathing technique I learned when I was in Rainier last year. We are at 11,614 feet. I think I got higher than that in Rainier.
We stopped at a village about 9:30 for breakfast. We visited awhile with the French couple as they also stopped. We stayed for about an hour. Laurie bought a can of Pringles. She was eating them with pleasure and so was everyone else.
We got to our hotel, the Yak Hotel in Manag. We got a room with a shower and bathroom. It was nice to have them in our room. Such luxury. Most people would not think it was luxurious if they saw it, but we were thrilled.
I had a bowl of minestrone soup and Laurie and I split a plate of boiled potatoes which we also shared with Nar. The soup was excellent.
Played a new card game that Tara, one of the Austrialian girls taught us.
Singa and Pratik did our wash. Shortly after they hung it up outside, thundershowers came through. Laurie, Nar, and I ran out to get them. I tied some rope together and we hung it in our room.
We have tomorrow off to acclimatize. We will do a walk anyway to get a little higher and then back down. That helps to acclimatize. From here on in we will have short days because we can't gain too much in elevation in a day, except when we go over Thorung Pass. That day will be a 3000' elevation gain, but with a 5000' elevation loss. That day it should take about nine hours.
