noons are cooler than they have been. We arrived in Deurali about 11:45. Quicker than we estimated. We are staying at the Panorana Hotel. We had lunch with a couple that we met yesterday. They both work for Carnival Cruise Lines; she as a massage therapist and he as a waiter. Natasa is from Croatia and Danesh is from India.
Unfortunately it started to cloud up but these mountains are incredible. Tall jagged peaks straight up from where we sit.
There was a group that we passed. It looked like an expedition group with all the people and gear. Laurie said Nar talked to them. They were trying for the summit, but were stopped by deep snow. I am not sure what summit they were trying for.
I read and napped in the afternoon. I don't think I have slept so much in my life.
May 11, 2003
Today was the final climb to Annapurna Base Camp. As always the day started off with clear skies. At one junction we took the wrong turn. I saw Pratik so I followed him. Nar then called me down to go another way. I was happy about that because the other way looked steep and on the edge. We had to cross the river by a bridge. The bridge was made out of bamboo and filled with long grass. It was a little tricky, but not too bad.
It was a good climb up. We crossed some snow fields. I saw a lot of people coming down. I got to MBA, which is Machhapuchhre Base Camp. I waited for Laurie and Nar there. I could see that they stopped, so I wanted to make sure that everything was OK. We ended up stopping at the teahouse for a drink. Nar said that we didn't want to get up to ABC, Annapurna Base Camp, too early probably because it would be colder there.
I got there about 12:30. The clouds started moving in again, but we had incredible views before.
Hung out in the dining area and played games.
May 12, 2003
We had our alarm set early this morning so we could watch the sunrise. We were outside by 5:00. We were hoping for beautiful morning sky colors, but we didn't get them. We did have clear skies and we watched the mountain light up with sunshine. We could see the sunshine on the mountains before we could see the sun. It took along time before we could actually see the sun come over the mountains.
We went back to bed and hoped to sleep a little. Neither Laurie or I could sleep because we couldn't get warm.
Eventually we got up and started hiking back down the mountain. I think the views we had were better than what we had this morning, because the sun was shining on all of them.
The Santuary is like a bowl surrounded by mountains. There are several mountains that are over 20,000 feet which is over 7000 feet from where we were.
The walk we did today was 6000 feet down. The same 6000 feet that we took two days to climb up. My knees and toes were feeling the climb down.
It felt good to be going down because I feel like I am close to being done. This is the 22nd day of our trek. We have about 2-4 more days left. It depends on the trail we take. We are four days ahead of schedule so we might take our time. I am looking forward to ending this. It hasn't been hard, but I think I am missing some connection to home. This will be the longest time I have ever been out of touch. I am looking forward to getting into town and using the internet.
I like hiking better in the Sanctuary because it is less traveled and cleaner. I don't have to deal with horse trains and other animals. If I only did the Sanctuary though I wouldn't see what the villages are really like and how people live. So I guess I am glad I did both.
We are in Bamboo tonight. We are staying at the Bamboo Lodge because Natasa and Danesh recommend it. Laurie, Danesh, Natasa, and I got daal bhat for dinner. It was good. This is what Nar and the boys eat every lunch and dinner. They get to have as much as they want, but I would get sick of it everyday.
May 13, 2003
Are back in Chhomrong. We were going to go further but it looked like it was going to rain.
This morning as I was waiting for breakfast I noticed in their display cabinet a bottle of Dr. Bonner's. I got excited because Laurie and I looked all over New Zealand for it and couldn't find it. Dr. Bonner's is a biogradable soap that I have used for bathing, hair, and laundry. I asked the man how much. He didn't know. I think someone must have left it because it was the only one and it looked like it had been there awhile. I don't think he even knew it was there.
A bunch of them had a whole long discussion about it in Nepalese. As Laurie says they could spend a half an hour in a conversation about nothing. I offered the man 100 rupees, which is about $1.30 US. At home it would cost over $5.00. So the man was happy and I was happy.
While walking I met a couple from New Jersey. They traveled down in South America so they gave Laurie and I some information. They also traveled in the Everest region of Nepal, so we asked them questions about the area because we are going there next. This couple were suppose to go to Tibet. They couldn't go because the border is closed. I met a lot of people that had to change their plans from Tibet to somewhere else. I don't know if the border is closed because of SARS or what.
Well the rain has come. It is pouring, thunder, and lightning. I am sitting on the balcony of our room watching the rain and fog. I can no longer see the village across the way. Good thing we are in for the day. We are in the same place that we stayed on the way up to ABC. Natasa and Danesh are also staying here.
