We did our errands and went back to the hotel. Not much else happened today. I have begun to like Thamel (part of Kathmandu). I am looking forward to coming back and going to the shops. We went back to the internet and then went back to the hotel for dinner. It was so late that we decided to get room service. I just got a chef's salad because it was too late for a full meal. Laurie got chicken Kiev. Laurie's chicken Kiev was shaped like a chicken by using mash potato and chicken. Now I am watching Boston Public - a US show - kind of neat to watch.
May 20, 2003
Nar told me that he would pick us up at 6:00 am to go to the airport. Laurie said to me "you know he will come early". Nar was there before 5:30 and we were still in bed. We got up and dressed. Most of our things were packed so we just had a few things to put in.
We; Laurie, Singa, Nar, and I piled in the taxi and took off for the airport. Our flight was at 7:00, but we were in the air by 6:45. I guess the plane is full, then it goes.
The flight was something. The seats were like metal chairs that had a thin layer of cushion. They just fold down if you aren't sitting in them. They passed a tray of hard candy and cotton. The first time I saw this was when we left Pokhara and I didn't know what the cotton was for. I saw Nar take it and put it in his ears. There were 19 seats. We were on Yeti Air which was different from the airline from Pokhara. They didn't offer us a cup of soda as Buddha Air did.
The flight took about 30 minutes. The sky was a little hazy, but we were able to make out the Himalayan Mountain range. It was just incredible to see the white, massive, jagged peaks above and the green mountain below.
The ride itself felt like we were suspended in the air and we were being blown by the wind. The plane moved like a car does when it is out of control in snow and you are trying to keep it straight. I think some people were a little nervous.
The landing was not on a level, flat surface, but went uphill. I guess because the runway is so short it helps slow the plane down.
The baggage claim was a riot. One guy brings each bag in behind a counter asking if it belongs to anyone, but he was very careful about checking baggage receipts.
We were finally out of the one room baggage claim, out the door and the trek started right then.
Oh, I didn't tell you, where we flew into. It is Lukla. No cars here - at least I didn't see any or any streets. Just in the middle of nowhere, there is an airport at the bottom of the village.
We stopped at a teahouse for breakfast. Back to boiled eggs again.
Since we didn't have Pratik, Nar and Singa were in search for another porter. Men/boys just hang out at the airport looking for work as a porter. I don't know where Singa found him. I am sure Singa will miss Pratik.
As we started walking we were watching the planes take off. They just go down the hill. It looks like they wouldn't even have to lift off but they could just go off the runway into the air like a hang glider because at the end of the runway it just drops off.
We only walked three hours today. Lukla is at 9,000'. I felt very unenergetic today. I am glad it was short. Starting in Lukla and going through the village it doesn't seem to be as poor as in Annapurna region. We see many more kids going to school.
I saw a man dressed in pants and shirt with a briefcase and umbrella. It looked funny because it was like a businessman going to work, but walking on the trail through the villages. I saw another man carrying 8 cases of beer on his back. He didn't go that far, but it is just incredible what they carry. The Everest region is where the Sherpa people live and they are known for carrying heavy loads and being porters and guides.
We are in Phakding. The place we are at is the Sherpa Village. We were told the prices are higher in the Everest region. I don't know what the room cost, but I know the soda doubled in price. The room is nice and comfortable. The only thing I can complain about is that the steps up to the room are so steep. I feel like they made them for tall people. I was exhausted going up them. They have showers, but you have to pay. I can skip the shower today.
After lunch, Laurie and I went to our room to read and nap. It is only 1:00. See how lazy I am getting.
May 21, 2003
This morning when I woke up I couldn't believe how quiet it was. There were no barking dogs and no roosters crowing and people working. It was nice, but I was still awake. We were hiking by 7:20 this morning. We started with raincoats and pack covers because it looked like it might rain. It wasn't long before I was taking mine off because I was warm. We entered the Sagarmartha National Park. Sagarmartha is the Nepal name for Everest which was recently given. We stopped to eat in Manjo. It was only 10:00, but we were told it would be a long steep climb to Nanche with no teahouses in between. I didn't really want anything on the menu so I just had some crackers that I had and peanut butter. We started our climb up and as we got higher we had to cross a bridge that I was told was 2000 feet above the river. When I read about doing it I wasn't too keen on it. It actually wasn't too bad and it didn't seem 2000 feet high.
We have been seeing lots of people trekking. They were going up and coming down. Many more than we saw in Annapurna. One reason is because it is the 50th Anniversary celebration of Everest's first successful summit climb done by Sir Edmund Hillary of New Zealand.
I have seen lots of porters today carrying very heavy loads. They walk with a wooden stick shaped like a "T" about 2 1/2" thick and about 2 1/2 ' tall. They use it to set it under the basket to hold it up when they want to rest. On the steep section they seemed to rest a lot. As I was going around a switch back, I saw about 10 of them lined up resting. I wanted to get their picture, but they started walking. About two minutes later they stopped again scattered about the trail. I asked if I could take their picture and they were happy..
