|Images of clothing from the Kievan Period|
|The Kievan period dates from around 860AD until the Mongol invasion of Russia. Early clothing was simply designed but well decorated. Later, after the conversion to Christianity in 988AD, the clothing began to reflect the influence of Byzantium, though with an essentially Russian flair. The most notable difference between Kievan and Byzantine is the differences in drape: a territory with a tendency to be muddy led the Kievans to keep their gowns short, no longer than the ankle even for women. Nothing was allowed to drape or drag. In addition, the Russian fashion was for a static line, rather than the voluminous opulence of Byzantine styles.|
|Image 1: Typical outfits for early Kievan Period - pre-Christian. The man is wearing a rubakha shirt. The maiden has on a full length rubakha with a panova over it. Her circlet is called a nachil'nika. You can tell she's an unmarried woman because her hair is uncovered.|
|Image 2: Another early Kievan couple. This couple is married, as evidenced by the woman's povoinik, covering her hair. I'm not sure if she's supposed to be wearing a rubakha and panova, as the maiden above: I've never seen a split overdress as this picture suggests anywhere else.
Note the more complicated boots on the man. This couple are probably wealthier townsfolk, merchants perhaps.
|Image 3: Various headwear for Kievan maidens, starting with the common on the left made of a leather band, upperclass in the middle made of embroidered silk ribbon glued to a birchbark or leather base, and princess on the right, hers made of precious metals and gems. Note also the necks: The common woman wears beads and amulets, the upperclass woman wears necklaces of finer gems, and the princess has an ornately embroidered and bejeweled neckline on her gown.|
|Image 4: On the right side, some Kievan noblemen, late 10th C.
This image is now on the Yahoo Albums site -- Kievan album, image 20 of 39 (2003_0101RussianCostume0034)
|Image 5: Kievan Noblewomen on the right, late 10th C. Note the pattern sketches on the left, depicting the similarities of Kievan garments to Byzantine, as well as the sketch of the separate ornate collar worn on special occasions, called the ozherl'ya. In addition, the ladies are all wearing fur lined caps, indicating cooler weather.|
|Image 6: Another larger image of an ozherl'ya like the one above. Note the essentially religious nature of these decorations: depictions of saints and archangels. This example is probably from the later Kievan period, when religious decoration on garments flourished. The ozherl'ya in the above picture has more of a stylized decoration of vines and floral motifs.|
|Image 7: Late 10th C. On the left, a minstrel with his gusli, an instrument similar to the psaltery. On the right, two townsmen, clearly craftsmen. And in the background, another peasant farmer and a pair of peasant women from the southernmost reaches of the principality.|
|Image 8: Various ways of married women to wear the ubrus. Above we saw maiden headdresses, here we have married women with their hair properly covered.|
|Image 9: This royal Kievan couple is dressed for court. The Princess's ornate kokoshnik crown is atop her ubrus, with kolty hanging to her collarbone. The Prince wears his mantle over his navershnik, or festival overshirt. Note the shorter length of his shirts: this Prince is an active sort.|
|Image 10: This later Kievan noble ladies, from the 12th/13th C, are wearing their best. The lady on the left is wearing her venets crown over her ubrus. She has a ozherl'ya on over her brocade navershnick. The lady in the middle is wearing a shuba over her rubakha, with long kolty hanging form her fur lined cap. The lady on the right is wearing a brocade and embroidered letnik with deep winged sleeves, with an ozherl'ya, and her kokoshnik crown is jeweled and embroidered cloth of gold on a sturdy hardened leather base.
Note that while earrings were known in the period, the style were generally simple hoops, usually worn by men. Women wore the ornate 'temple ornaments' known as kolty from their hats and circlets.
Also note the ornately embroidered shoes the three ladies wear.
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