La Paz, Baja to Puerto Vallarta  -  January 25 - February 1, 2006
We left La Paz, Baja California, on January 25th under clear skies and just about no wind, which makes for great motoring but poor sailing. The first leg of our journey took us south through the Cerralvo Channel to Bahia de los Muertos, literally "the bay of the dead". This was once a thriving little port that first served the local silver mines and later salt producing operations. It's name "Muertos", (dead), is believed to be in reference to the "deadman" type mooring anchors used in the bay for barges.
  After a quiet night on the hook we picked up and with the blessing of the wind gods sailed down wind under jib alone in a steady 20 knots which, when combined with a fair current, gave us a very respectable "over-the-ground" speed of 6.5 to 7.0 knots. The wind held throughout the day allowing us to sail the entire distance into Los Frailes where we spent our second night out.
  Some friends had asked us to say "hello" to another couple expected to be anchored there. You can imagine my surprise when I contacted them on the radio and they not only knew who we were but had been expecting us. We would have loved to have spent a few days but the weather was cold and wet, (thunder showers and lightening all night), and therefore not conducive to hanging out and diving. We plan to be back later in the trip and will spend more time then. So with a good stiff breeze on our beam we headed out for Isla Isabela.
Provisioning and laundry in the same day was not a good idea.
The point at Los Frailes
The next two days flew by with steady, albeit at times a bit gusty, winds and a 4 to 6 foot swell which, for the most part, kept us firmly planted on our butts. The first day out had us sailing with a full jib and one reef in the main sail. By the second morning we had two reefs in the main to keep the boat balanced and slowed down a tad. We actually saw over 9 knots of true "over-the-ground" speed a couple of times while surfing down some of the larger swells. That was enough to require the second reef. (For non sailors, putting a "reef" in a sail is a process of reducing it's size by hauling part of it in, thus making it smaller, and 9 knots is way to fast for our little boat.)
  We arrived at Isabela early morning on the 29th for a much needed rest. With just the two of us on board it becomes difficult to have at least one of us up at all times keeping watch for more than a couple of days. This is compounded in rougher weather as neither of us gets much sleep then. The next day, the 30th, was Cheri's birthday and she said she could not have been in a better place. Check out Cheri's pages on Isla Isabela.
From Isabela we head southeast, motoring, as the wind had left us. Our next stop was Chacala, a small village on the mainland. Arrival ended up later than planned due to an emergency stop, having run into a fisherman's floating long line and fouled the prop. We were thankful for no wind and calm seas and quick dive over the side with a sharp knife had us cleared in about 15 minutes.      
We were both angry as the line was very poorly marked but also felt bad as these fishermen work very hard for little money. We could see their "panga", (a type of fishing skiff common throughout Mexico), from our position so decided to go over and at least give them a roll of line to replace what we had cut up. Not wanting to get too close and fouled again, we approached cautiously and attempted to hail them but were ignored. We at least felt better for trying. (Later we discovered that fishing with floating long lines is illegal which would explain the fishermen ignoring our attempt to talk to them.)
  The trip down the coast from Chacala to Banderas Bay was another no wind motor. Along the way we were escorted by numerous sea turtles and humpback whales. The approach to the bay included running a gauntlet of sport fishing boats. Once inside, the winds picked up and we were able to sail on to Puerto Vallarta. Banderas Bay is truly immense. At over 20 miles wide and 18 miles deep, it is the largest bay on the west coast of Mexico.
   Upon arrival at, as Cheri so succinctly put it, the "grotesquely fancy" Paradise Village Marina, we ran a maze of fairways to find ourselves wedged in among gazillion dollar yachts. The facilities are very clean and nice, as one would expect of such a place, but it did feel a bit odd lugging four large bags of dirty laundry through a very upscale indoor mall to get to the Laundromat.
   We both like Puerto Vallarta as a city but find we most enjoy our time sailing or at anchor in some small and remote bay.
Chacala
RETURN TO INDEX PAGE
Up the mast in PV for maintenance work.
Hosted by www.Geocities.ws

1