| Climbs are listed in order of increasing distance from the car or trailhead. Mile 0.0 is the first (steel) bridge encountered. |
| Excalibur V 210' This climb is located high on the east side of Mineral Creek left of Blue Horizons, below Arthur and below and righ of Merlin. It is a thin, overhanging sword-like pillar visible from town and rises above a lower-angle, wider haft-like apron on an overhanging wall. This climb should be avoided in avalanche conditions as it is directly in the path of a major chute. The first pitch is 100' of bulgy steep ramp to an ice mushroom lying below the final pillar. A belay can be placed in alders about 20' to the right of the mushroom, permitting spectacular photographs of the leader on the next pitch, which overhangs about 6' in 110'. The crux second pitch begins with an extremely strenuous overhand which because of the drain it causes on forearm strngth renders the rest of the climb much more difficult than would otherwise be the case. As is typical of overhanging ice even in good conditions, the pillar is candle-sticked, friable, brittle, and not well protected. After the mid-section the angle begins to ease and at the top a ramp leads to snow and to alders. This climb is similar to the crux section of Love's Way and to sections of Wowie Zowie and received a V rating rather than a V+ only because of its short length. To descend, rappel 150' from alders on the left. Arthur III 125' This climb is located directly above Excalibur. It can be approached (as it was on the first ascent) by doing the lower climb first, or via a ramp on the left past Merlin. The route about a hundred yards uphill above Excalibur consists of about 100' of steep ice to a snow ledge. Above there is some quite thin ice and a short (10') rock sectioin to the top of the cliff. Rappel from alders to descend. |
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| Patients please.....still working on this area!!!! Should be completed by 08/29/02 |