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| Climbs are listed in order of increasing distance from the car or trailhead. Mile 0.0 is the airport intersection |
| Click on the names of the climbs for a picture of the route. Some routes have additional pictures linked at the bottom of the description. Hole in the Wall canyon is like a number of the other side-canyons in the Valdez area, remarkable for it's ease of access, it's narrowness, and its high concentration of ice climbs. Hole in the Wall is the last canyon on the right (south) side of the Richardson Highway before entering Keystone Canyon, and is visible from the road in the vicinity of mile 11 to mile 12 of the Richardson. Of the two canyons, which diverge from a point about a mile and a quarter from the highway, the left, narrow one is Hole in the Wall and the right wider one is Brown's canyon. Hole in the wall is approached by walking or skiing from the Richardson at mile 12.74 where the Alyeska Pipeline access bridge is easily visible. Cross the Lowe River via the bridge and follow the road toward the mouth of the canyon. When you reach the first abrupt corner to the left go right onto the river and head East toward Browns Creek and Hole-In-The Wall. Soon the climbs, all on the left (east ) wall come into view. To descend from climbs in Hole in the Wall rap from alders at the top and v-thread the rest of the way down. Approach Map. |
| left side of the canyon Red's Blue III 160' This climb is the first one encountered in the canyon, and is a somewhat bushy pillar on the left before the narrow section of the canyon is reached. left side of the canyon Ski Race III 320' This climb is located on the left just before the canyon narrows down, and shares it's start with Second Coming. It is a sheet of ice which narows and splits, this climb going up and left and Second Coming going up and right. left side of the canyon Second Coming IV 330' This route, the original and more difficult finish of the two climbs, can be seen from the Richardson Highway by those who know where to look. The climb is initially a slab angling slightly right but then steepens considerably and finishes with a steep pillar on the right. You can rap from alders at the top off the first pitch to a stand of alders in the wye between Ski Race and Second Coming. If you can't reack the second rappel station be preapred to v-thread. Addtional Photo left side of the canyon Dire Straits IV+ 160' This is the hanging tusk of ice on the left wall of the canyon just inside the narrow part of Hole in the Wall. It does not go all the way to the top of the cliff and lies between Second Coming and Crystal Visions. The first 100' was bad ice and bulges and a belay was made on top of a dollop. Description continue's next column. |
| Dire Straits cont. The second 60' required traversing to the right and climbing "Candlestick Curtain". There is some potential for rockfall as well as danger from the icicles poised directly above the climb. The route, being relatively thin, does not set up in some years. Descend via v-thread anchor on a broad ledge. Really a single pitch line, there is usually no need for two pitches. Pins and slings for tying off icicles can be useful if the route is thin. Additional Photo left side of the canyon Crystal Visions V 420' This climb is located out of sight from the road around a prominent prow. In a very narrow section of the canyon, deep pools may make the approach impossible unless there has been recent cold weather. Crystal Visions is a lacelike hanging curtain of ice virtually without breaks for its entire distance. Climbers should be prepared for an exceptionally continuous route. Rappel from alders on the top pitch and v-threads for the next rappell(s). left side of the canyon My Three Rats V 320' This route is located 50 yards past Crystal Visions and as the canyon necks down abruptly, it is necessary to climb up the canyon wall, over a shoulder, and down again, to reach the base of the route on the left wall of the canyon after it opens up again. Plan on 2 hours for the approach. The first pitch is 170' of rock, turf, verglas, little icicles, and suchlike using both rock and ice pro, to a ledge with alders on the right side of the upper pillar. The pillar was 150' in length, 15' in diameter, and separated from the rock at it's base. We climbed this route in 2006 in what must have been fat condtions and found the 1st pitch to 180' WI5 and the top pitch tp be 120' WI5-. Rappel from alders and a v-thread. |
| All information taken, with permission, from Andrew Embick's book Blue Ice and Black Gold |
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