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| Climbs are listed in order of increasing distance from the car or trailhead. Mile 0.0 is the Dayville Road turnoff from the Richardson Highway. |
| The Dayville Road area contains a limited number but a great variety of climbs, from short road side smears (One Screw) to accessible, wind-protected canyon wall climbs in Abercrombie Gulch, to the unique amphibious route up Solomon Gulch and it's companions on the sides of the gulch. Dayville Road turns off the Richardson highway heading out of town, at mile 3.15 counting the airport intersection as mile 0.0. |
| Mile 1.50 left side of the road Shine On II 60' This climb as well as the next is located in Abercrombie Gulch which is a narrow canyon coming down from the east side of Sugarloaf Mountain, between Sugarloaf and Mt. Francis. The canyon's entrance is only a couple of hundred yards at most from the road though it is so narrow that it is not obvious. A short hike of a few minutes reveals a canyon less than fifty feet wide which however quickly opens out into an amphitheatre in which are located Shine On (the closer of the two climbs) and No Way Jose, both on the right (west) wall. Shine On is a small pillar which finishes at a good clump of alders, permitting an easy rappel descent. Mile 1.55 left side of the road No Way Jose III 130' This climb is the higher, left pillar of the two in the Abercrombie Gulch amphitheatre. Rappel from V-Thread or climb higher to reach the alders. An extra 25' pillar on the top left of the climb, steep and hollow, was climbed and is named Jose Feliciano, grade III. Mile 3.45 left side of the road One Screw I 60' This climb is located about 250' east of the hydro plant, just above the road. It is a 75 degree rock slab covered with ice. No pro. |
| Mile 3.65 left side of the road Solomon Gulch IV 1500' This climb is a true mixed route, involving ice, snow, rock, and water. It follows Solomon Gulch intself from the Dayville road to the pipeline access road, a vertical rise of almost 600'. The problems encountered on this climb include open, deep pools of water with smooth rock walls forming the sides. From the pipeline access road at the top hike right (east) to the jeep road leading down. Mile 3.65 left side of the road Necromancer V- 305' This climb is located on the left (east) wall of Solomon Gulch above a large pool. It is reached by hiking up on the right (west) side of the gulch and rapelling to it's bottom, then completing a 50-60' traverse to the base, or you can brave walking the pipe up Solomon Gulch. The climb is a steep (80 to 90 degree) route with no ledges; a hanging belay is necessary. To descend , walk down the hydro project pipelines to Dayville Road. Mile 3.65 left side of the road Aqualung III 95' This climb is located inside Solomon Gulch up from the Dayville Road, on the left (east) near the mid-way steep sided pool. The route is thick 75 to 85 degree ice leading to the end of the old wooden flume. To descend hike down through the woods. |
| All information taken, with permission, from Andrew Embick's book Blue Ice and Black Gold |
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