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| Climbs are listed in order of increasing distance form the car or trailhed. Mile 0.0 is the Bear Creek bridge. |
| Mile 0.0 left side of the canyon Skunk II 150' This is a small route, just beyond the southern, left end of the trestle. To descend rappel from a good fir tree or walk off on left. Mile .10 right side of the canyon Rain Check IV 300' This route is located about a hundred yards inside Bear Creek canyon. A bit of hopping back and forth across the tiny stream is sometimes required, but not difficult. This climb is worth the short hike getting to it. Rap the top pitch from large spruce tree's and the final rappel from a v-thread. Additonal Photo Mile .11 right side of the canyon Rain Check Left IV 300' Is a steeper more sustained line than the right side. Climb up low angle ice to an ever increasing steep pitch. It is the main flow in this photo. Rain Check Left. Mile .20 right side of the canyon Big Brother V 310' This climb is past Rain Check by a couple of hundred yards, and it's bottom is visible when hiking up the canyon as some icicles far above at the top of a wildly overhanging rock wall. First a small snow cone is surmounted to a point to the left of the route itself. Then, exposed climbing with less-than-perfect protection from small bushes leads up a snowy ramp/groove to the right to a small stance. A knife blade, a couple of spectre hooks can help protect the traverese. The traverse is actually pretty easy. A rappel from here (two bolts) takes one onto the base of the climb. (continue, next column) |
| Big Brother Cont..... The route is sustained and fun. Climb two pitches of steep ice to the canyon rim. The top pitch being a steep and sutained crux. To descend rap from good trees at the top, then v-thread for a second rappel, this will see you at the start of the ice. A third rappel from here off of a v-thread will get you to the ground. Stay to left on the rappel with the final rappel being free hanging. Another option is to walk off the top. Mile .21 right side of the canyon Twisted Sister V- 320' This route is a variation of Big Brother, using the same ramp+rappel+traverse approach, then climbing a smaller, shorter pillar on the right. From the end traverse, a 160' pitch angles up and right to a gap between the Big Brother and Twisted Sister ice pillars. The final pitch is first up a ramp to the main pillar, then 40' of vertical ice, then up about 100' of 65 degree alders. Descend as for Big Brother. |
| Bear Creek canyon is another narrow steep-walled, easily accessible and wind-protected tributary canyon of the Lowe River. It is the first canyon on the left (west) past Keystone Canyon as one heads out of town, located at mile 16.50 of the Richardson Canyon. Bear Creek canyon is easily identified by the small, arched bridge which stretches across it's entrance. Generally you can park at Keystone Rafting's log cabin which is almost directly in line with the canyon. A short hike or ski of only a quarter mile from the road across flat terrain puts one in the canyon and near four climbs. |
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| All information taken, with permission, from Andrew Embick's book Blue Ice and Black Gold |