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Saint Malo
 City of the Corsairs
Saint Malo is named for a British Monk "Malo" who came to convert the region to Christianity in the 6th century A.D. The town has a somewhat dubious history having been an important base for corsairs which is a poetic name for pirates and also for the slave trade. But that's all over now and it's a terrific place to visit. It's essentially a walled island fortress reached by causeways or by ferries.
� A walk around the ramparts which encircle the old town give excellent views of the streets inside and the surrounding sea and countryside. We're talking huge walls of granite. First, walk along the top of these ramparts. You can go around the fortress in about two hours and enjoy the splendid view of the Emerald Coast. At low tide you can walk out to a couple of quite small islands. One is the Fort National, and the other is the site of the tomb of Chateaubriand. Tides are swift and ferocious here so when the signal sounds to return to the city, do it now. A wait of ten or fifteen minutes will condemn you to about six hours on a wet, windy islet with no shelter. Cars don't go inside the walls but bikes do. Take a tour on the cobblestone streets to reach the cathedral or make a stop in a "cr�perie" where you can savor the most famous cr�pes and the apple cider from Brittany. The Hotel Chateaubriand is a great place to stay. It's friendly with a places to store bikes and have an outdoor beer while watching the passing scene. July 14, Bastille Day, is very like our Fourth of July with parades and fireworks. I took some clients to see the fireworks over the harbour there one night. The fog that night was very thick and heavy. You couldn't see anything. I mean absolutely nothing. Visibility was maybe 50 feet. Imagine your head inside a brown paper bag. However in France if fireworks are scheduled, fireworks happen, no matter what. Throngs of people stood staring at the wet brown wall hoping to catch even a hint of the airial display that we could all hear clearly. No luck, not even a flicker. My little group of irreverant Americans however began to pretend. They started saying "oooh" and "aaah" and pointing into the brown nothingness. We shortly were surrounded by envious locals, some even also pointing and exclaiming. Such is the power of imagination.
Although staying in the walled city is a unique experience another option is to spend the night in Dinard, across the bay. A regular ferry service runs between the towns and Dinard has it's own beaches and attractions. It also has the promenade le la lune, a beautiful if rather adventurous pathway carved along and under the cliffs. After surviving the wet rocks and the salt spray a warming restorative is in order. Napoleon Brand works really well here. Trust me on this. Many, many years ago I and a young lady were staying in a Youth Hostel nearby and picked mussels off the rocks under the wall and stole some fresh corn from the fields to cook a feast back at the hostel. If memory serves correctly we then returned to the beach above when it was dark to reenact the scene from "From Here to Eternity". Those were the days!
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