And so it came to pass that the two travellers, weary and emotional, but acutely aware of their own happy memories, touched down upon their native soil. And it was grey. All was grey.
At the start of our long journey home, we received an email in Lima, confirming that I was to have an interview on the coming Monday for the Wigan job. With mixed feelings, we boarded our plane.
The journey back was a long one, but happily, we broke it up with a short stop in Madrid. We'd seen the city before, and really like it, so presented with the choice of a 5 hour wait in the airport, or a jaunt into town, we proffered some Euros, and hopped the bus. Madrid was as gorgeous and sunny as one could hope. We feasted on tapas and sangria, and combed the streets for David Beckham. He was nowhere to be seen.
So now back in Inglaterra, we had a great weekend, partying with friends and family. We were met at the airport by a coach-load of well-wishers, including my Dum and Dad, Donna's Mam and Dad, R. Lads, Shirl and Mike. It was really good to be back among those we love, drinking the alcohol we love so much.
And then the interview on Monday. Well, I'm rather afraid, after a long day of presentations, tours, and interviews, I was offered the position. I accepted, with the promise that in 2004, I would work term-time only. I have a number of reservations about taking the job, but also, I have a smug sense of satisfaction that I am back in the country for only 4 days, and land a job.
Post-welcome home parties, reality is sinking in, and beginning to hit us both hard. And as we settle back into our ordinary lives, so too, must this website come to an end. We will endeavour in the next few days to write a final summing-up.
Tuesday 1st July 2003, both write:
We did it!
Doing the Inca Trail is a ridiculous business. On our first day, we walked a modest 2 hours along a beautiful valley, and then camped comfortably at a mere 3600m altitude. On the second day, we walked a slightly more taxing 6 hours uphill, and then camped very uncomfortably at a damp 3900m. All this was mere tantalisation for the third day, in which we attained 8 hours walking, crossing two passes of 4215m, and 4000m. This was a hard day. We did 6 of those hours before stopping for lunch. So we needed our sleep.
We didn�t get much. We had to rise at 3am for a tramp across uneven rocks, in the pitch black, with 200m drops at our side, and torches that didn�t work. But when we arrived at Machu, it was worth it. The site itself is really amazing, but it is the surrounding mountains that steal the show. Donna asserts that we will have to do the trail again to see it minus the cloud, though her now dodgy knee would suggest otherwise.
So now here we are, back in Cusco, feeling odd and rather emotional about coming home. When we were on the Salar tour, a Swiss traveller summed up the feeling when she said we would return with one eye smiling, and one crying.
We fly tomorrow, and return to Blighty late Thursday night. We�ll see you there, it�s your round.
Thursday 26th June 2003, Christian writes:
We�re getting really excited about the Inca trail now. We�ll be gone for 4 nights, so we�ll be incommunicado for a while (unless the Incas had an internet cafe at Machu Picchu).
We�ve put some new photos on. Donna is curiously absent from this lot, and for that I apologise.
Tuesday 24th June, 2003, Donna writes:
Cusco is just the bomb! It�s a great city that�s been celebrating Inti Raymi in style for the last 4 days. The Peruvians know how to party. It�s been non-stop parades and people in funny costumes. We even joined in yesterday and taught them some new dance moves. We have been taken into the hearts of the people, we�ve even been asked to appear on the local radion station "Las Vegas!"
Things are gearing up now for our imminent return. Christian is busily applying for a job and I may have one in the pipeline too. Maybe we won�t be destitute afterall. Our plane tickets are booked and we should be back in Blighty on the 3rd July. Arghhhh!
We can�t wait to see everyone but are very sad that our adventure is nearing an end.
But first we have to conquer the Inca Trail without breaking any bones in the process. One thing is for sure; we`ll be leaving on a high note.
Sunday 22nd June, 2003, Donna writes:
Well, we�ve done it! The Inca trail is booked and paid for.
We leave Cusco on the 27th for 5 days of camping in the freezing cold. We must be mad! It�ll be the final trip before coming home. The Holy Grail if you like. We can�t wait to see Machu Picchu and are staying another night to really explore it and sooth our aches and pains in the hot springs.
Until we leave we�ve got a few days in Cusco and have timed it to perfection. There�s a huge festival on the 24th called Inti Raymi to celebrate the winter solstice. We�ve met up with some friends from the Salar trip so it should be a good laugh.
Gig Review:
The band Mas o Menos (formally known as Lolo and Rico) began with an Irish favourite �One� to embrace the Irish roots of the charismatic female singer. The low key guitarist complementing her delicate voice to perfection.
They continued with a set list of melancholy and haunting songs for the soul, featuring Bird on a Wire and several Tracy Chapman numbers.
With the crowd won over they returned for a second set after a brief interval to mass applause (mainly from friends and eejits). Copacabana had never seen the likes before or will ever again, the duo disbanded after this unique performance. Will music ever recover?
Oh, and we finally found a PC to unzip this piccy of baby Caitlin. She is a beauty, despite the resemblance to Ian. Well done all 3 of you!
Thursday 19th June, 2003, Donna writes:
Bus fiascos are just becoming part and parcel of everyday life.
We wanted to catch a bus from La Paz to Copacabana (how could we resist with a place name like that?). This we thought would be a simple task, there were about 100 companies operating in the Terminal de Bus. We enquired at the information booth to be sent to booth number 51 or 61. We then found that 51 didn't actually exist and 61 was on �a break'. On returning to the information booth we were told that she didn't really know to ask someone else. Those Bolivian Bummers!
We thought we'd use our initiative and go to the stand with COPACABANA emblazoned all over it, only to find that they didn't actually go to Copacabana, well, that makes sense. They did, however, point us in the direction of 35 and we managed to purchase two tickets for the following day.
We arrived bright and early at the bus station to find everything closed up. A little concerned we found a helpful chap who just shouted "over there, over there!" at us. Eventually we found someone in the know and waited in line for our bus.
It arrived late (how South American) and with only 4 vacant seats fot the 10 of us waiting patiently. We were informed that we'd have to wait for another bus. Christian refused to leave the vehicle and sat down almost in the drivers seat. With our bags loaded on top of the bus we were adamant that we were going to Copacabana that day. Realising our resolve they made space for us. The buses here have 'magic seats' that just appear from nowhere.
The journey was amazingly picturesque and from our vantage point caressing the gearstick we marvelled at Lake Titicaca. We had to all get off the bus at the lake and the passengers were ferried across on a little speed boat whilst the bus went on the dodgiest looking ferry we've ever seen. Safely at the other side we reboarded and headed onwards. Upon arriving in Copacabana we were well impressed. It's a tranquil little town on the waterfront.
Yesterday we took a trip to Isla De Sol and Isla del Luna. The boat was the slowest ever. Imagine the engine from Christian's scooter on a huge ferry with 40 passengers - then take 10 miles an hour off that.
So far we're loving it here and intend to stay longer. We've met up with lots of people from the Salar trip and met others besides. Last night we had a drunken night and Christian arranged to play a gig tonight with an Irish gal we met called Patrice. As I type they're having a band meeting to decide on songs. A must is the Bazza Manilow Classic, of course.
They�re thinking of calling themselves Lola and Rico!
Sunday 15th June 2003, both write:
To take a sleeper bus is never a good idea. To take a sleeper bus while suffering from a case of the shits is a terrible idea.
But we are getting ahead of ourselves. From San Pedro, we joined our tourbus, bound for Bolivia. Within an hour, we had climbed another 2000m, to 4,500m (the driver offered us oxygen - we were fine). Then across the border, through a tiny, bizarre shack in the mountains. From here, we had three days just touring the Lagos, desert, and Salars of the region. It was truly sublime. The image that sticks in our minds is being on a tiny island (Isla de los Pescadores), surrounded by huge cacti, looking out onto a huge expanse of flat white salt - the Salar of Uyuni.
We slept the first night in little more than a shack at 4,500m. It was -8 degrees centigrade at night. All the windows froze over, but we managed to sleep ok. The second night was better - at a more reasonable 3,800m, and with a hot shower (agua caliente!).
So we arrived in the town of Uyuni on Friday 13th, and here Christian's bad luck began. Firstly - an email from Auntie Marchia revealed that his old job was available once more, back in Wigan. With no prospects he was forced to send an email to the principle expressing an interest. As if that wasn't bad enough, he was then struck with a terrible bout of the shits. Surely things could only get better!
We were faced with a dilemma. Do we take a room in the unsalubrious town of Uyuni, and wait for it to pass, or do we take the sleeper bus to La Paz, and hope for the best?
Foolishly, the idea of a fiesta in La Paz was too much temptation, and we got on the bus. The bus was a nightmare. A really knackered old bus, full to bursting with locals stood (and sometimes sprawled) in the aisle. 10 minutes out of the town, we got a puncture.
When we finally arrived in the city limits of La Paz, Christian's stomach was doing sommersaults. In his second foolish decision of the last 14 hours, he decides to chance a sly fart.
As the bus pulled into the station, his underpants filled with a green liquid mass. Oh Jesus, no. He waddled to the station toilets, and deftly disposed of the soiled underwear. He was not a happy bunny.
Now safely in a hotel close to the city centre, he is doing much better. Donna has been a good nurse, and stools are resuming semi-solid consistency. So much so, that last night we chanced an evening out to see the big festival (El Gran Poder) which was taking place in the city.
Things were looking up. I think we will like La Paz.
Tuesday 10th June 2003, both write:
So we�ve made it into Chile! Crossing the border was an experience. We were thrown into the arms of a taxi driver (who Donna thought was trying to sell us passports). He took us across, and dumped us on the outskirts of Arica. Once we got into the town, we really liked it. We booked our onward bus tickets to San Pedro, and explored the town.
A big parade was in process, to celebrate Chile�s victory in the Pacific War. On checking our emails, Aaron had been in touch to advise us to visit the Archeological Museo in Azapa. So we hopped a taxi there, and he was right, it was amazing. More mummies. From there we headed back into town, and walked up the Morro (the big hill that dominates the city) to see the big JesusCristo at the top.
So last night we caught a sleeper bus to San Pedro. Donna got really pissed off because, inexplicably, all passangers are asked to get off the bus, and stand next to their baggage, every 30 miles or so. We were slightly perturbed, because our baggage was not present (and we hadn�t seen them load it). When we asked about it, they shouted some random words at us and we reboarded the bus. Sure enough, when we arrived, our bags were aboard, albeit in a secret stowaway.
Unfortunately, San Pedro would be a beautiful mountain town, but it is currently under construction (lots of rennovation work going on in the Plaza Mayor and around). So tomorrow, we head on to Bolivia, across the Salar de Atacama. Thanks to Angela and Gary for the tip - we�ve no guidebook now,and so are flying blind. We�re relying on word of mouth, and serendipity - so far so good.
Finally, thanks to all those who sent us an email after our pathetic appeal. We realise we are emotionally needy. Your replies are chicken soup for the soul. etc.
Saturday 7th June 2003, Christian writes:
I�ve got such a craving for cake at the moment. I just can�t stop myself, despite the fact that we�ve both put on a few unwelcome pounds. And the Pasteleries here. Mmmmmm.
So we�re in Arequipa now. The plan was to take a couple of days up here in the mountains, just to relax a bit before we travel on. That we have. Arequipa is really beautiful. It�s quite a big city, but very old, built around an amazing Plaza de Armas, with Volcano views all around.
Manyana, en la manyana, we catch an early bus to Tacna, where we can cross the border into Chile. Oh blimey. I�m so excited I might pop. Or maybe that�s the cake.
Thursday 5th June 2003, both write:
Well, we�re successfully plowing our way down the coast towards Chile. From Lima we went 4 hrs south to Pisco - and what a journey. The coastal landscape of Peru is really wierd - just a chalk-brown desert blurring into the misty fog sky. Once at Pisco,we stayed in a beautiful Spanish-style hostal called Posada Hispana. The town itself wasn�t much to write home about, so we won�t. It was, however, close to Isla Ballestos, so we got a boat out there on a tourist trip. It was really beautiful rugged coastline, with lots of wildlife - boobies (phnar phnar), seals, penguins, Inca birds and turkey vultures.
From here, another 4 hours south to Nasca. If, like Christian, you always dreamed of being abducted by UFOs at an early age, there is a good chance that you read Erich Von Daniken�s Chariots of the Gods. Well this place is where the Nasca people carved huge patterns in the desert 2000 years ago, which Daniken believed were UFO landing directions. We took a small plane (6 seats) over the Nasca Lines (they�re only visible by air), and it was very hairy. The plane banked steeply over a monkey, then swooped around, so that those on the left of the plane could see too. Then on to the Spider. After 5 minutes of this we felt sick. After 35 minutes of this, Christian was praying for the plane to land. But it was amazing to see the lines.
Just prior to this, we took a bus trip along dirt-tracks into the desert. This led us to Cementerio de Chauchilla: an excavated cemetary of the ancient Nasca people. Bodies were mummified using salt, chilli and lime (think of that next time you eat salsa), and laid in tombs. It was all a bit eerie, but Donna loved it ' she can�t escape her goth roots, so loves anything dead.
So we�re off to Arequipa tonight on a sleeper bus. We�ll have a few days here, then head on south into Chile. It�s all a bit hectic at the moment, but we�re just loving it. I guess we�re making the most of our last few weeks.
Speaking of which, Christian has developed a much more healthy attitude to coming home. Now thinking of the family and friends he has missed, he�s looking forward to seeing them all again. Donna is available for work from the beginning of July. Will consider anything.
Monday 2nd June 2003, both write:
"Don't spend much time in Lima", "Watch yourselves in Lima"
...was all we heard. In fact, so far we really like Lima. It's very South American, and very Spanish. The place we are staying is a beautiful old hotel in a quiet corner of town (it's called Posada del Parque).
We've spent the morning just wandering around the Plaza de Armas. Donna is amazed at how cheap, and how lovely all the little shops are. We really need to buy some warm stuff too. Even though Lima is in the tropics, at the mo. it's only around 20 degrees, and once we get into the mountains, we'll be in the minus figures. Gulp.
We've booked our bus tickets, so tomorrow morning, we leave for Pisco, beginning our long journey down the coast, towards Lake Titicaca and Bolivia.
And a decision is finally reached: Christian can walk better in his own shoes (minus the cast) so tonight it will be ceremoniously torched. Yay! It's the most hygenic thing to do. The smell is quite pungent.
We both got a bit freaked out upon the flight arriving in Lima, on two counts: 1) the airport looks almost exactly the same as Liverpool John Lennon Airport, and 2) Realising that we were so near the end, and our next flight will bring us home.
There is some tension in Peru at the moment, with a series of strikes leading the President, Toledo, to declare a state of emergency. We've certainly not seen any unrest, and the FCO isn't advising against travel here - so we'll be ok, we just have to keep aware.
Is that it? Nooooo! there� s a whole archive of other stuff.