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  • On Bangalore-Hassan-Mangalore highway (NH48)
  • 225km from Bangalore, 35 km West of Hassan, 128km East of Mangalore

  • How To Reach: From Bangalore, take any bus to Mangalore. Best option is to board 11:30pm Luxury bus, which reaches Sakleshpur by 4:30.

  • Part of 147 km meter gauge rail track from Sakleshpur to Mangalore (Kankanadi).
  • Trekker's Territory: stretch from Sakaleshpur to Subramanya (2 days+), through the Western Ghats

  • Sakaleshpur (starting near Donigal Station) to Yedakumeri Station (20km) can be trekked in a day.
  • Best Season : Oct - Jan

  • Stuff to carry: Food, Water and a Torch Light (to traverse the long Tunnels, upto 572m)

  • Now there's no train service in this route. Govt plans to convert it to broad gauge.
    Trek starts from place called Kappalli (near Donigal), abt 5 kms down the road from Sakleshpur
    From the Highway, have to cross a paddy field to get to the meter gauge rail tracks.

  • Once on the tracks, after the Highway-bridge over the tracks near Donigal, There are only 2 access points to the Highway.. one, 4km trek thru' jeep tracks from the Base Camp of the
    workers, just before the First Tunnel.. which is at 55th km-mark (the trek starts near 48th km.) The Next access to highway is a 5km trek down the jungle-slopes behind Yedakumeri Station. Have to cross a shallow river next to the Ghat-highway, with rocky, slippery riverbed.
  • The TRIP


    Trip 1: Feb/24/01 Misty  FirstBridge.. taken with my camera timed &tied to the Shaky Balcony on the bridge !
    It was a very misty morning.. low visibility..
    From Kappalli, some 5km down the road from Sakleshpur, we crossed the paddy field and hit the rail track by 6 o'clock. within a km on the tracks, we reached the first bridge..
    we admired the view.. the greenery, the height of the bridge and the mist..
    a very quaint place.. with a creaky old bridge.. and invigorating freshness..
    we reached for our cameras..
    initially it felt difficult to step on the slippery sleepers.. cos of mist..
    the sense of height makes one feel precarious..
    we stepped with gingerly footwork..
    stopped midway and waited for the mists to clear and the Dawn to break.. for a better view..
    watched a Small Blue Kingfisher in flight, took off from a branch across the stream..

    Luke stepping cautiously on FirstBridge Had some snacks and carried on..
    Birds.. there were lots and lots..
    After the second bridge, we heard the sound of flowing water..
    Off the tracks.. we went searching for the stream..
    in the direction of the base of the bridge.. it's inaccessible..
    too thick growth.. and steep decline.. we turned elsewhere..
    when in a densely wooded place, looking for trails to the stream,
    near a dead tree trunk, heard a machine-gun like sound.. all silence.. again..
    a Golden backed woodpecker took to wings..

    We continue roughly in the direction of the stream.. and, of all creatures,
    we came across a Mallu-looking lady ! .. no, not tribals, settlers !..
    even in this place.. in the midst of Nowhere.. she gave direction..
    saw a lone mud house, with solar panels for Lights.. small farmland on the hill..
    Cool place.. we freshened up, I did Skinny Dip in the shallow water.. real refreshing..
    Light @the end of the Tunnel We carried on.. back to the tracks again..
    in the afternoon could see and feel shimmering heat waves..
    not really the best season.. to trek the whole distance.. till Yedakumeri (20km)
    There are only 2 access points to the Highway.. one, 4km trek thru' jeep tracks from the Base Camp of the
    workers, just before the First Tunnel.. which is at 55th km-mark, the trek starts near 48th km. The Next access to highway is a 5km trek down the jungle-slopes behind Yedakumeri Station.

    The Tipper-Trailer Tractor

    Hitchhiking on the Tractor After some 12kms down the track, we decided to abort and turn back to Base Camp
    from where there's access to Highway.
    since Giri hurt his ankle.. we hitched a ride in the trailer of a
    tractor used for construction work (reinforcing the slopes on the sides
    of the tracks where there's possibility of land-slip..)
    the tractor was going to the Base Camp for the workers, from where we
    can get to the highway through jeep-tracks..
    For the most part, the tractor moved through the rail tracks.. except
    when we neared bridges.. it took diversion and came back to the tracks again..
    during one such detour, the tractor was traversing a slope on muddy road..
    the driver shifted to lower gear..
    suddenly we felt that the Slope's r becoming too steep.. and it became
    unbelievably steep.. for a tractor to traverse.. then we realised what
    was happening.. That we were being tipped out !! The driver inadvertantly
    pulled the tipper-lever while changing gears.. and up we went..I was clinging onto
    the edge.. Luke and Nandu couldn't get any grip to hold on..
    slipped and were out.. 'Dumped' on the dirt and dust !..
    Giri was shouting to the driver to down the tipper.."Ay Boss, bring us Down... Bring DOWN"..
    He stopped and apologised.. we carried on, amused and physically hurt..
    'NOT BAD an Experience..' smirked Luke and Nandu..

    Being on the trailer of a tractor going over rough rocky terrain and
    rail track.. obviously without any shockers..
    I felt the brain getting rocked inside the skull..
    later on the way one lady got into the trailer.. she was squatting on it,
    using her feet as shockers.. I followed suit..

    Heady Toddy ..

    At the Base Camp for the workers, there's a Tea cum Toddy shop.. we decided to
    take some bites.. but nothin available now..
    But.. there's fresh palm toddy..
    I looked at Luke.. our tired glassy eyes suddenly got a glow and spark..
    HO JAYE..
    Giri frowns at us.. he's a teetotaller Pattar
    We brushed aside his apprehensions..
    We got our bottle filled with 750ml.. and gulped down on our way..
    it had a pungent tang.. gave a slight sweet High.. just a lil woozy..

    On the way to the Highway thru the jeep track, one Gypsy jeep came our way and stopped..
    A Mallu engineer at the site returning to Sakleshpur.. We hopped in.


    The Second TRIP

    TrekkingProhibited .. Notice @Donigal when train service was on

    Dec/9/01 : Planned to trek till Yedakumeri

    Planned to go by the last bus (11:45pm 'Airbus') to Mangalore till Sakleshpur.
    But since the one before that got cancelled in the last minute, we c'dn't
    manage to get tickets.. next option, to hop into a bus to Hassan. I fought my
    way thru the crowd to get in and block some seats for us.. in 12:30 bus.
    Reached Hassan before 4:30am..
    Hitched a ride in a Tanker trailer Lorry till Sakleshpur (got down at a tea-shop near Kappalli)


    Deja vu

    By 6am, we crossed the paddy field and reached the track... bone-piercing chill still in the air.. when we reached the first bridge.. there was a strange sense of deja vu.. memories of crossing the bridge 10 months back, and the surrounding scenery, still fresh...

    Birds

    Dawn Breaks behind the Bamboo brakes
    There are bird-rich areas next to the tracks.. near some bamboo brakes, we c'd spot many.. at least 5 species c'dn't be identified..
    Here's the day's bird-list:
    1. Blackheaded Yellow Bulbul (ruby-throated race)
    2. Red-whiskered Bulbul
    3. Red-vented Bulbul
    4. Small Blue Kingfisher
    5. Cuckoo Shrike -pair
    6. Blyth's Reed Warbler
    7. Spotted Dove
    8. Golden Oriole (fem)
    9. Nilgiri House Swallow
    10. Racquet-tailed Drongo
    11. Ashy Drongo
    12. Whitebellied Tree Pie
    13. Whitebacked Munia
    14. Goldfronted Chloropsis
    15. Magpie Robin
    16. Chestnut-headed Bee-eater
    17. Blue winged Parakeet
    18. Scarlet Minivet -pairs
    19. Yellow Wagtail
    20. Purple Sunbird

      Butterflies


      Highlight of the day's sights include seeing a Southern Birdwing butterfly in flight.. I was hoping to see one as just the other day I read about it in Dileep's book..

      Southern Birdwing (Troides Minor), largest Indian Butterfly !.. has a wing-span 140-190mm. It is abundant in the Western Ghats during monsoon and immediate post-monsoon months. Active during early morning hours with a slow flight, usually high above the trees.. Frequents shady walks and glades in the jungles and comes down from tree tops to feed on Lantana, Mussaenda etc.

      We'd seen one dead
      Southern Birdwing @ Kudremukh.. but at that time didn't know any details about it.. just that it was unusually large..
      "It can put a swallow to shame".. sez Manoj.
      Some other Butterflies: CRUISER, COMMON MAP. A shiny golden Butterfly..  species name: CRUISER - (Vindula erota)  species name: COMMON MAP (Cyrestis thyodamas)


      Railway Glory !

      Manoj showed the flower called Railway Glory !.. growing on the unused tracks..
      He tried to take a photo of its creepers on the rusty, dilapidated, shaky sign post.. the name sounded like an oxymoron

      Bridges


      One of the Tallest Bridges.. After 10th Tunnel.. some 14km into the Trek.. Creaky rusty old bridges with no side railings
      some long bridges are at Vertigo inducing heights.. supported by long
      concrete pillars.. acrophobics will find it tough to cross.. (recently a certain friend went on all fours on the 1st bridge @48th km mark)
      most are surrounded by lush greenery..
      SpitHit height.. if u spit from the bridges, it takes upto 6 secs to
      hit the bottom.. some places it's treetops, some streams and rocks..
      u might get psyched out if u focus on forest/falls/streams/treetops vertically below.. and walk slowly on the sleepers..
      Best views surrounding the bridge are seen after Tunnel#11.. where
      there's continous stretch of dense evergreen forest
      Towards the end, saw a red pipe-like structue on a hill far away and
      exactly opposite to us on a continuous U-shaped stretch of hills ..
      what can that be ? checked thru binox..
      t's a bridge !! must be one that we passed thru.. that hill and the one
      huh.. we covered sso much distance ? we wondered..

      Tunnels

      PitSop for Snax
      17 of them.. 2 0r 3 more than 500m..
      Torch light a must..
      possibility of small pools of spring water seeping thru rocks
      The first Tunnel is @ 55km mark..
      long tunnels with smell of bats.. in some, there are large population of bats
      Denser forest cover starts after Tunnel 10.

      Labourers in a Tractor No construction work going on this time.. till first 15km.. but @ two places..
      we saw some labourers breaking down rocks etc..

      Then Tractor with tipper trailer brought nostalgic memories of last trip..
      asked the workers about Yedakumeri Station.." 3 more kms.. from there trek down jungle trail
      for about 4 km.. to reach the Highway.."



      Yedakumeri Station: 559.60m above MSL
      Arrival 5:10pm.. after 20km trek thru the tracks.


      After seeing and experiencing the route, one'd think that it's better not to make
      this route broadgauge... "and t'll bring whole civilisation and its baggage of problems with it"-( sez Manoj)
      .. it will, no doubt, spoil the place..

      X-ing the River in The Darkness..

      Started at 5:30 from Yedakumeri.. need to get to the Highway (..4km away)..
      before dark..
      and there's river-crossing just before the Highway.. pretty difficult task if
      it becomes dark..
      trek down the steep jungle trail till we cross a stream.. and
      then onto a wide dirt-track.. all ears for sound of vehicles.. after half-an-hour,
      started hearing some distant sounds of trucks going up on the Ghat-road..
      some elephant droppings here and there.. finally by 7 we reached near the road..
      but.. now t's Really dark.. need to cross the river.. Luke got into swimming trunk and went for a
      recce mission across the shallow rocky-but very slippery part.. sometimes on all-fours..
      he came back after 15-20 mins.. 'tis only knee-deep, but we need to be really careful.. got cameras and stuff..
      I decided to carry the torch light.. and go last .. so needed extra balancing act..
      finally we did it without much damage except for our very tired feet slipping
      and hitting against some sharp rocks..

      Truck Ride.. afta the Trek !

      After hitting the highway, tried hitching a ride.. unsuccessful for 15 min..
      and then a Truck stopped.. can go upto Hassan.. grreat.. I hopped onto the
      back.. loaded with sacks of thin sea shells.. Luke gave me company..

      I relaxed.. lying on the sacks.. gazing at the starry sky.. view gets
      interrupted by passing tree tops.. otherwise the serene sky..
      Whatta TRIP !.. I's on cloud nine for sometime..
      Tired muscles turned on the snooze mode.. Slowly.. I slipped into sleep.
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