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Brazil July �05 |
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Ilhabela -
From Shaw... Upon Mom�s arrival in Brasil, we decided that a beach experience was in order. Ilhabela was the ticket-- jungle-covered island off the coast north of Sao Paolo complete with secluded beaches (Praia do Bonete) only accessible by 11+ km trek past waterfalls, jungle snakes, rushing rivers (hence the photo) to a special pousada with no electricity, phones, internet, or cars-- and then the rain started... and didn�t stop for 4 days! The trek was impassable and the ocean was too strong to allow an exit, so it was an intense mother/daughter reunion after 10 months apart. The colorful building was our home away from home for the week and the shot of the beach was our first glimpse as we trekked in on the first day. Bonete was our blessing in disguise, as it led us ultimately to Itacare, Bahia--the beginning of surfing for me. Read on....
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Tiradentes/Minas Gerias -
We were ready for antiquities, blue skies (!), and Minas Gerias, the area referred to as the "Tuscany of Brazil." What we found were cobblestone streets, colonial architecture, and 60's VWs lumbering up and down the steep streets. Gotta respect the tenacity of the �People's Car.� Shaw speaks.... Minas Gerias was also my first SERVAS experience-- stayed three nights with Tom, a transplanted Sante Fe-an, and Marcia, a native Paulista, and were provided a much-needed rest from the rigors of the road. Gardens full of lettuce, basil, and thyme provided me a chance to make dinner for all-- another often lost treat while travelling. |
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Cha Cha and Mama drive Brazil -
Shaw transformed into Cha Cha (Muldowney, 1st female drag racer) when confronted with survival on the highways of Brazil. I closed my eyes and prayed while she darted in and out of a long line of gaseous trucks snaking up and down mountain passes. The trucks drive in whatever lane they want, all the better to avoid pot holes that could swallow our small Fiat. Near head-ons while passing are part of the game.
Shaw speaks... Two 10-hour days sandwiched together makes you appreciate the ways in which the American government allocates transportation dollars! The "main highway" that connected Rio and Salvador probably gave me my first gray hairs! |
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Brazil is not big on road signage so we spent a lot of time asking locals (who spoke no English and mostly did not drive) how to get to the next town. Obviously, groups of guys loved helping a pretty American girl. Since their directions were frequently indecipherable, we hit on the idea to take the direction giver (lady below) with us to the next town to assure our success. |
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Shaw Speaks...On to Bahia... |
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Our arduous drive took us 1600+ km north of Sao Paolo into the state of Bahia. After the cold nights in southern Brazil, we were ready for palm trees, coconut and suco do cana sellers (see pic), hot beaches, and the Afro-Brazilian rhythm that is the "tipico" image that most have of Brazil. We landed in Itacare, a small fishing village transformed into a surfing and capoeira destination. I got my 9' longboard and capoeira pants, Mom got her boogieboard and a good book, and we were set for a few weeks. |
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And the addiction begins.... |
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Itacare was my much-anticipated foray into surfing-- I always knew once I gave it a shot, it would all be over, and boy, what an addiction. One of the more coveted spots (Praia Engenhoca) is shown below--- you trek in (longboard in tow) through the jungle, to a secluded beach with the best swells on this little stretch of coast. The combination of the rhythm of this incredible ocean, the awesome beauty of these rainforested beaches, and the fact that i�m in Brazil (!) were enough to keep us settled for a few weeks. |
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The other part of Bahia.... |
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The other major cultural export from Bahia (that Americans are slowly becoming hip to) is capoeira. I guess one could call it a martial art, but it came about as a way for African slaves (concentrated in Bahian sugar and cacao plantations) to practice outlawed fighting moves under the watchful gaze of their Brazilian slave masters. It�s a flipping, turning, incredibly beautiful, incredibly graceful practice/dance between two people-- and a practice I had been itching to try back home. So, it being Brazil, I found an incredible group (Tribo Bahia) that trained everyday on the beach and every night in a performance space in town-- I�ve never been so sore, but also so tanned and so connected to such an ancient tradition.
All the kids grow up training and beating on the drums and instruments that are included in the ronda, so I have lots to learn, but the group back home better be ready.... I�m shown here training (on the beach!) with Jamaica , the mestre of the group. |
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While Shaw�s surfing and flipping and turning on the beach.... |
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The closest bigger town to Itacare is Ilheus, birthplace of another major export from Brazil, Jorge Amado. Famous as a man of Latin letters (Gabriella, Clove, and Cinnamon & Dona Flor and Her Two Husbands), Mom went down for a day to check out the town where he spent most of his years. The statue (and kiddies hanging off) very much reminded Mom of the Philosopher�s Rock at Barton�s. And we just had to include the ubiquitous church shot. |
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Home, Sweet Home.... |
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Being in Itacare for a few weeks, we got to unpack our backpacks and settle in, I guess you could say. Here�s me on our little balcony (see the hammock hanging on the hooks) of our lovely abode at the Billabong Hostel-- so named as the owner is an ex-pat Aussie. We bargained for kitchen priveleges and greatly enjoyed some comforts of home-- dinners by Shaw, pumpkin soups by Mom. As we�ve started to say, it�s the little things that make your day when you�re on the world highway. |
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And we say Adeus to Brasil.....
On to the Amazon Jungle
of Peru... |
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Final shot at Praia Engenhoca-- an appropriate send-off from such an incredible country. |
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