England`s most famous long distance footpath crosses mile after
mile of Northumberland`s wild and empty Cheviot Hills
as it winds its way over the final leg of an epic journey along England`s spine. This walk will take you from the upper
reaches of the River Coquet onto the border ridge where you will join the Pennine Way for four undulating miles over the high ground
of Lamb Hill, Beefstand Hill, Mozie
Law and the aptly named Windy Gyle. You will
experience far distant views over seemingly endless hill country as clouds
billow above you against a backcloth of blue sky. You will end the day visiting
two smaller subsidiary hills as you descend gently back to beautiful Upper
Coquet Dale.
Ready to start the walk at Slymefoot beside the River Coquet
The Walk
1. Where the Rowhope
Burn enters the delightful River Coquet, 6 miles along the twisting single
track road from Alwinton, there is limited parking.
Close by, in the 18th century, stood the Slymefoot
public house, by all accounts a den of iniquity, where during the winter months
the local sheep farmers spent their time gambling and drinking illicit whisky
while their shepherds came in every day to receive their orders and to carry
the news. Cross the bridge and then the stile next to the five bar gate to your
right and follow the track steeply ahead, signposted “ Border Ridge 3 miles “.
This is `the Street`, an ancient high level drove road, shown on General Roy`s 1775 map as `the Clattering Path`, which runs from
Upper Coquet Dale over Black Braes and the border to Hownam
in the Kale Water Valley. At the top of the hill cross the stile to your left
and take the green track which heads initially westwards away from the fence
hugging bridleway to your right. After turning northwards and
gently climbing uphill, the track soon joins another bridleway (NT 849116) which
you follow westwards across the southern flanks of Hindside
Knowe. There are excellent views down into the
narrow Coquet valley below. Head for the tree shrouded buildings of Carlcroft farm and, on reaching the Carlcroft
Burn, cross over the footbridge and follow the track as it turns behind and
climbs away from the buildings.
2. The track rises across the upper slopes of Carlcroft Hill before descending gently to cross the Blind
Burn near to a fine circular sheep stell (NT 820127). This is a delightful spot
with the ruins of the grandly named former shepherd`s
cottage Yearning Hall visible to the west. The path away from the burn is faint
in places but is marked occasionally by finger posts, so be sure to keep your
eyes peeled for these as you cross a fine stretch of mat grass. These areas of grass are known
locally as `Whitelands` because the erect spikes that
are produced by the grass in June become bleached to almost white as autumn
approaches. Eventually, the path merges with a clearer green track arriving
from Yearning Law and you continue with this until you reach the mountain
refuge hut at Yearning Saddle (NT
804129) on the border ridge. This is an ideal spot to take a short break.
You are now on the Pennine Way as it traverses the
high ground of the Cheviot Hills all the way to the quiet Scottish border town
of Kirk Yetholm. When Tom Stephenson first proposed
the Way in 1935 he rated the Cheviot Hills as his favourite
walking area in the country. Many of the wettest sections across these lonely
hills have now been paved with stone slabs taken from derelict Yorkshire cotton
mills. Your route now heads north eastwards with the border fence, on your
left, for company, first to the trig point on Lamb Hill and then to the
undistinguished tops of Beefstand Hill and Mozie Law. You will feel an intense sense of isolation as
you see wave after wave of foothills rolling away on either side of you,
blocking out all sign of habitation. If you are lucky you will see the shy
feral goats that have roamed these hills for many years and if you are downwind
you will more than likely catch their pungent scent.
Windy Gyle
summit looking towards snow speckled Cheviot
3. Towards the bottom of the descent of Mozie Law you will encounter a stile (NT 835149) and, once
over, you are again on `the Street`. Cross over this track, leaving the border
fence for a short while, and continue in a north easterly direction over fairly
rough ground and the appropriately named Foul Step, to the climb towards Windy
Rig. Pause as you reach the highest
point of this stretch to admire the view straight down the
4. You must now leave the Pennine
Way and the higher ground to head south easterly from the summit cairn, over
the stile, and then downhill towards Scotchman`s Ford
(NT 861148). Once reached, continue
along a grassy quad track in the same general direction, towards the 495 metre top of Little Ward Law. This requires a small
diversion from the main track. On leaving the top you will need to rejoin the
track, which in a short while will turn to head southwards, to meet the gravel
road leading ultimately to the remote farm of Uswayford.
It is not unknown, during severe winters, for this farm to be cut off for weeks
at a time. Deep in the plantation on the other side of the track is the
mysteriously named Murder Cleugh, hinting perhaps at
some distant dark and deadly event. Turn right along the gravel road until you
reach the end of the plantation and the stile on your left (NT 868131). Cross over
the stile and proceed along the waymarked green
bridleway over relatively flat ground with the rounded top of Barrow Law ahead
of you. On reaching the white topped waymarker on the
flanks of Barrow Law take the faint quad track, to your right, which heads
uphill to the 419 metre summit (NT 863116). This is a tremendous vantage point, looking down to the twisting River Coquet
below and dominated to the south east by the huge bulk of Shillhope
Law.
5. After admiring the view, head south easterly
across the flat summit and continue downhill in the direction of the obvious
Meadow Sike. Before reaching the sike
(NT 866114) you will join an old green track which heads steeply and directly
towards the valley road near to the farmstead of Windyhaugh
on the other side of the river. Once down in the valley turn right and follow
the road and the river easily back to Slymefoot and
the end of a delightful day`s walk.
Refuge hut at Yearning Saddle on the
Pennine Way
|
Distance |
20 km. (
12.5 miles ) |
|
Total
Ascent |
710 metres |
|
Grading |
Moderate |
|
Start
& Key Grid References |
|
|
Time |
5 hours |
|
Nearest
Town |
Rothbury |
|
Terrain |
Some
steep ascents and descents over mixed terrain with many boggy sections paved
with mill stone slabs. Some green tracks and one short stretches of tarmac. |
|
Maps |
OS
Explorer (1:25000 ) OL 16. Harveys Superwalker ( 1:40000 ) The Cheviot Hills |
|
Accommodation |
Rose
& Thistle Public House, Alwinton (limited)
otherwise small hotels, guest houses & caravan park at Rothbury |
|
Public
Transport |
None (
except to Rothbury & Thropton
) |
|
Tourist
Information |
Rothbury
National Park Centre. Telephone: 01669 620887 |
|
NEXT WALK : FOUR CHEVIOT LAWS |
Devised,
written & photographed: Geoff Holland 2005