HIGH ABOVE THE COQUET
The River Coquet cuts through the Cheviot Hills as it winds its way through endless miles of wild and
empty countryside. From its remote source at the Roman camp of Chew Green to its
arrival where the golden beaches of Northumberland collide with the North Sea, this is a truly beautiful river. This walk starts
where the river meets the Usway Burn at Shillmoor and then climbs high into the Cheviot Hills
before descending, initially along an ancient drovers road and finally down the
strangely named Copper Snout.
The Valley of the Usway Burn
The Walk
1. Shillmoor is an
isolated farmstead standing where the Usway Burn
joins the River Coquet and is 3 miles from the village of Alwinton along the unclassified road through Upper Coquet Dale. There is road
side parking by the river immediately before the bridge (NT 884078). This area
was colonised under the monasteries in medieval times and is now used by the
Army as part of their dry training area. Do not be deterred, there is
absolutely no danger. Walk over the bridge and then turn immediately right down
the access road to Shillmoor, with two houses on your
left. Soon after passing these houses, and before reaching the main buildings
of Shillmoor, take the track to your left leading
into the valley of the Usway Burn. Ignore the `Private Road` sign as this relates
only to vehicular traffic. Within 100metres a rough track climbs away from the
main track on the left, alongside a stone wall. Follow this track as it
continues to climb close to the boundary wall and then fence. Keeping the fence
on your left you will quickly gain height and when you reach the gate (NT
883084) just above the small crags on your right, glance back over your
shoulder. You will see the River Coquet glistening below as it wanders through
the valley towards Alwinton and beyond. There are
extensive views of the neighbouring hills. Continue
through the gate and after further climbing along a grassy track you will reach
the top of Inner Hill at 436 metres. To the west
Upper Coquet Dale lies below you whilst to the east lies the narrow valley of
the Usway Burn. Continue along the broad ridge,
losing some height, before crossing the fence, via a gate, at the col and then climbing on either of the two tracks to the
trig point of Shillhope Law (NT 873097) of 501 metres. This stands just west of the fence.
The Summit of Shillhope
Law
2. Return to the fence and descend, first in a
northerly and then in a north westerly direction on a sometimes boggy path. As
you begin to lose height you will have excellent views down to the isolated
farms of Barrowburn and Windyhaugh
and beyond to Windy Gyle and the Border ridge. Cross
the fence at the gate (NT 873101) where
it meets another one and continue along a faint track until fairly level ground
is reached. At this point you will need to strike out across the grassy col towards Kyloe Shin and the
unnamed hill above. There is no obvious path to the top of this hill, although
sheep traces abound. You will need to choose your own route and to seek out the
highest ground at 433metres by continuing in the same general direction as you
have come, bearing slightly to your right as you climb. Once reached (NT 877113), continue along the flat top
until, to the north west, you can see the forest fence below with a
ladder stile, a five bar gate and the tree free top of Middle Hill popping out,
like a bald head, from the forest. Head down the nose of the hill on a clear
track to the gate and go over the stile into the forest. Do not follow the main
track down through the forest to Fairhaugh but take
instead the track to your left heading towards the top of Middle Hill. Before
this is reached the track veers to the right and falls downhill to join a track
coming in on the right from Fairhaugh. Turn left and
in a short while emerge out of the forest. Follow the quad track across the
small hill immediately in front of you (NT
874134) until you reach the gravel road leading to Uswayford
farm. This is probably the most remote farm in the Cheviot Hills and was, when
Tomlinson wrote his “Comprehensive Guide to Northumberland “ in 1888, a shepherd`s hut.
3. At this point the gravel road is crossed by
the ancient track of Clennell Street as it heads northwards to Hexpethgate, also
known as the Border Gate. You will join Clennell Street on your return
journey, but first a short sharp climb. Here the Hepden
and Usway Burns flow down on either side of Hazely Law, coming within 200 metres
of converging before being thrust apart by Middle Hill so that they eventually
enter the River Coquet some 2 miles apart. Head straight up the nose of Hazely Law on a faint path climbing steeply to its 499 metres summit (NT 877144). You will be rewarded with
excellent views of the surrounding valleys and hills. Retrace your steps down
the hill, stopping halfway for the perfect refuelling
spot.
Hazely Law from Middle Hill
4. On reaching the Uswayford
road cross over and head south over the stile, descending to the wooden bridge
over the Usway Burn. From this delightful spot you
now climb gradually across the lower slopes of Yarnspath
Law to the Kidland Forest. You are on Clennell Street, the 12 mile cross border track
used over the centuries by drovers, peddlers, reivers
and smugglers and which runs from Alwinton to Cocklawfoot in Scotland. You enter the Kidland
Forest (NT 879128) , planted between
1950 and 1970 on land assigned in 1181
by the Cistercian Abbey of Newminster ( near Morpeth ) to
monks and their servants for the grazing of sheep, and continue for a further 2
miles straight ahead along Clennell Street. For the
second mile you have the forest on your left and open countryside on your
right. Along this stretch there are three arrowed finger posts, one on your
right and two on your left. Leave the track on your right when you reach the
second finger post on your left (NT
897106) and head across boggy ground, crossing two stiles, to Copper Snout
and a glorious downhill walk of almost 2 miles on a clear path back to the
River Coquet. The views are outstanding. Once in the valley, cross the Usway Burn (again!) by the dilapidated concrete bridge,
passing Shillmoor on your right and head back to your
car.
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Distance
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16.9 km.
( 10.5 miles )
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Total
Ascent
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771 metres
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Grading
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Moderate
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Start
& Key Grid References
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Shillmoor
in Upper Coquet Dale ( NT 884078 ), (NT 883084), (NT 873097), (NT873101), (NT
877113), (NT874134), (NT 877144), (NT 879128) & (NT 897106)
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Time
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4-5 hours
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Nearest
Town
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Rothbury
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Terrain
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Some
steep ascents and descents, good grassy paths, occasionally boggy, and a
stretch of gravel track
|
|
Maps
|
OS
Explorer ( 1:25000 ) OL 16. Harveys Superwalker
( 1:40000 ) The Cheviot Hills
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Accommodation
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Caravan
site at Clennel Hall ( Alwinton
) Hotels and guest houses in Rothbury
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Public
Transport
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None (
except Thropton )
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Tourist
Information
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Rothbury
National Park Centre. Telephone 01669 620887
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Devised, written & photographed:
Geoff Holland 2005