HIGH HILLS & THE SALTER`S ROAD
The River Breamish trickles into life south of
Scotsman`s Knowe on the remote slopes of Cairn Hill, an outlier of the mighty
Cheviot. The narrow, upper reaches of the
Cushat Law from High Cantle
The Walk
1. Just north of Powburn an unclassified road
leaves the A697 and heads for the Breamish Valley, a long time favourite
picnicking location for Tyneside families. After passing through the tiny
village of Ingram, which has a recorded history dating back to the 11th
century and was one of the `Ten Towns of Coquetdale`, the single track road
crosses the 1910-built pre-cast concrete Peggy Bell`s Bridge. The winding road
then leaves the valley behind as it climbs past the buildings of Greensidehill
towards the farm of Hartside. Immediately prior to the farm buildings there is
adequate verge parking (
2. Turn left, pass through
the small gate next to a five bar gate and then immediately turn to your right.
With the fence and trees on your right, follow the grass covered path which
very quickly merges with a rough gravel track. In less than 100 metres, go
through a small gate, adjacent to a much larger five bar gate, and continue
uphill, caught between the eastern slopes of Ritto Hill and the plantation
edge. As the gradient begins to ease ignore the signpost on your right for
Linhope Spout, you will need to save this for another day, and continue
straight ahead until you reach, on your left, a track. Straight ahead lies the
route to Hedgehope Hill, the second highest of the
Waterfall on the Ainsey Burn
3. This fence, which
links High Cantle with Coldlaw Cairn, never falls below the 456 metre mark on
its 3¾ mile journey towards the summits of Comb
Fell and Hedgehope Hill. However, your encounter with this `navigational aid`
is all too brief. Cross over the fence and head straight on, away from the
fence, and very quickly you will join a clear, green quad track. Now turn right
and walk the short distance to the cairn topped summit of High Cantle (GR NT927162). At a `mere` 482 metres
in height this is a tremendous vantage point. Take time to enjoy the views. To
the west, the route of the Salter`s Road is visible as it turns behind an
animal feed store on the valley floor and climbs across Nagshead Knowe towards
the distant Uswayford Forest. This is your ultimate direction of travel. But
first, a sharp descent. Follow the directional fingerpost close to the summit, heading
gently downhill on a green track and, on reaching a second fingerpost, turn
left and head steeply downwards on a thin path. Three more directional
fingerposts followed by a step stile will lead you onto the floor of the
delightful
4. On reaching the forest
edge (GR NT904157), a small gate and an adjacent step stile it is time
to leave the Salter`s Road and to start the just short of 1 mile journey to the
summit of Bloodybush Edge. This involves a total of 142 metres of ascent over sporadically
rough ground with the post and wire fence, to your right, for company. On
reaching level ground and a step stile, climb over and head for the
triangulation pillar, little more than 10 metres away. Here (GR NT902143),
on this 610 metre high summit, there is a tangle of converging fences, gates
and wooden posts. The views are excellent, with those to The Cheviot, Comb Fell
and Hedgehope Hill especially drawing the eye. A `Hewitt` is a hill in England,
Wales or Ireland which exceeds 2000 feet in height, with at least a 30 metre
drop on all sides. There are 525 `Hewitts` in total, with 177 of these being in
Summit of Bloodybush Edge
5. Within just less
than 2 heavy-legged miles after leaving the summit of Bloodybush Edge your high
level, fence-hugging route will bring you and your peat-splashed boots to the
615 metre high top of Cushat Law (GR
NT928137). Affectionately known as `The Monarch of Kidland` this hill
is, like its neighbour, classed as a `Hewitt`, ranking 172nd in England and
302nd overall. A tumble of stones, just to the north of the summit, provides
shelter from the wind and offers a relatively `dry seat` from which to admire
the grandstand view. From the summit a series of boundary stones run south
eastwards to Sting Head with each stone bearing a `K` on the west side and an
`N` on the east. These letters refer, in all probability, to `Kidland` and
`Newminster` respectively. Time now to leave the summit so, with the fence and
stone shelter behind you, head in a generally northerly direction picking up a
faint track as you go. After a short distance you will need to leave the track
and turn towards the north east, heading downhill with the cleugh of the
Smalehope Burn firmly to your right. On reaching a clear peat step, aim for the
green mossy area more or less straight ahead and, after nearly 100 metres, you
will join an embryonic track over initially rough ground. This track, which
soon becomes more obvious, bends towards the east as it leads you over Bush
Knowe. As you get closer to the pass between Shill Moor and Bush Knowe, the
track splits in two, so be sure to follow the spur to your left. Eventually
this will land you on the flatter ground of the Salter`s Road (GR NT943146).
6. To your left, the track heads down hill towards the Breamish Valley and the isolated farm of Low Bleakhope. In his 1936 book `The Rambles of Vagabond`, Frederick A. Wills wrote, “It is not too far along to Bleakhope where milk and cream and eggs are to be had at the end of the deep defile between Shill Moor and High Cantle”. You will have to leave the milk, cream and eggs for another day, as your route now heads to the right, where very quickly you cross a step stile on your gentle climb and then short descent towards Little Dod. Before reaching the top of this 386 high hill an arrowed fingerpost (GR NT950142) directs you to turn to your left and to follow the green track across the slope of Scaud Knowe. The Shank Burn lies below you to your right as you follow the easy downhill track and the occasional directional fingerpost. To your left there are good views of Ritto Hill, Dunmoor Hill and the granite tors of Great and Little Standrop. Eventually you will cross the Rowhope Burn, before climbing to a ladder stile leading you to the rear boundary wall of Alnhammoor farm (GR NT971153). Continue in the same direction until a shin high directional marker is reached and at this point turn left through a gate. Walk straight across this small field, with Alnhammoor above you on your left, leaving via a step stile. Turn right along the tarmac road, cross the River Breamish via a bailey bridge and after little more than half a mile of further walking you will be back at Hartside Farm. As you make your way home you will, perhaps, reflect on the joys of this truly classic Cheviot walk.
The track to Alnhammoor Farm
|
Distance |
18.9 km
(11.75 miles) |
|
Total
Ascent |
695
metres (2280 feet) |
|
Grading |
Strenuous |
|
Start
& Key Grid References |
Hartside,
Breamish Valley (NT978162), (NT940167), (NT927162), (NT904157), (NT902143),
(NT928137), (NT943146), (NT950142) & (NT971153) |
|
Time |
5.5 hours |
|
Nearest
Town |
Wooler/Powburn |
|
Terrain |
Mixed
fell, often boggy, with steep ascents & descents, some good paths, a
gravel track, two stretches of tarmac & sections of pathless terrain. |
|
Maps |
OS
Explorer ( 1:25000 ) OL 16. |
|
Accommodation |
Wooler Youth
Hostel. Telephone 01668 281365. Small hotels & guest houses in Wooler
& two caravan parks/camp sites. Limited accommodation in Powburn |
|
Public
Transport |
None |
|
Tourist
Information |
Wooler
Tourist Information Centre. Telephone
01668 282123 |
Devised, written &
photographed: Geoff Holland 2008