THE BIG ONE

 

Six of the Cheviot Hills break the two thousand feet barrier and when joined together in a single days walk represent a classic round of hills. From the beautiful Harthope Valley this walk touches the tops of The Cheviot. Windy Gyle, Bloodybush Edge, Cushat Law, Comb Fell and Hedgehope Hill as it crosses some of the wildest and loneliest country in England. With over 5,000 feet of climbing and more than 23 miles of walking, this route encompasses many facets of the Cheviot experience. So rise with the larks and enjoy this long day in the hills par excellence.

 

 

Hedgehope Hill from the lower slopes of The Cheviot

 

The Walk

 

1. The Harthope Valley, 5 miles south-west of Wooler, is the ideal place to commence this epic walk. There is adequate road side parking where the Hawsen and Harthope Burns converge (NT 954225). There is no access for cars beyond this point along the road which continues towards the house of  Langleeford, where, in about 1791, a young  Walter Scott spent a happy holiday, describing this place as “….one of the wildest and most romantic situations”.  Follow this road for 200 metres to where a signpost directs the way to the Cheviot and Scald Hill. With the New Burn to the right, a clear narrow path climbs initially through heather to eventually join the ridge (NT 933221) across the 549 metre top of Scald Hill. A small cairn on the other side of the fence marks the true summit. The path continues to follow the fence off Scald Hill into a short and often boggy depression before climbing sharply to the summit plateau of the Cheviot. Cross over the stile and follow the millstone slabbed pathway to the summit trig point perched high above the sea of peat on a substantial concrete plinth. Two previous pillars have long since disappeared into the mire. This is the highest point of the walk and the loftiest hill in Northumberland, although not the one offering the best views.

 

2. Proceed along the easy stone pathway, with the fence to your left, passing first a small lough and then Cairn Hill, the south western outhill of the Cheviot, with its pile of boulders known as Scotsman`s Cairn. Here there are good views back across the valley to Hedgehope Hill and Comb Fell, both to be visited much later in the day. On reaching the Pennine Way signpost (NT 896194), cross over the stile and head to your left, south westwards, towards Score Head and to the trig point on Kings Seat. Easy, generally downhill walking , eventually brings you to the ancient  Clennell Street border crossing at Hexpethgate, also known as the Border Gate and Cocklawgate. For centuries this route was used by drovers, reivers and smugglers, but now only the sounds of walkers break the silence of this lonely and delightful place. Continue to follow the Pennine Way as it faithfully clings to the border fence on its way to the summit of Windy Gyle, at 619 metres the fourth highest of the Cheviot Hills. The summit is capped by an enormous Bronze Age stone cairn with a trig point poking out of its top. This is known as Russell`s Cairn, so named to commemorate Lord Francis Russell who was killed near this spot in 1595 at a meeting of the Wardens of the Marches. There are extensive views in all directions.

 

 

Windy Gyle from Clennell Street at Hexpethgate

 

3. From the summit cairn retrace your steps through the gate to the Pennine Way path and proceed straight ahead, south easterly, towards Scotchman`s Ford (NT 861148). Once reached, continue along a grassy quad track in the same general direction, across the western side of Little Ward Law, and then leaving the track aim towards the bottom corner of the plantation to your left (NT 870138). Continue downhill across open fell to the gravel track leading to the isolated farm of Uswayford. Follow this track around the steep green flanks of Hazely Law until you ultimately reach the farm, sheltering below Bloodybush Edge, your next objective. Cross over the Usway Burn, via a wooden footbridge, skirt around the northern side of the farmhouse and then climb uphill towards the saddle (NT 892138) between Yarnspath Law and Bloodybush Edge. On reaching the fence running across the saddle turn left and follow the old line of fence posts uphill until you reach the trig point on the top of Bloodybush Edge. This, at 610 metres, is the lowest of the six 2000 feet hills.  From the unspectacular summit there are good views of the surrounding hills and, to the south, the extensive Kidland Forest. Planted between 1950 and 1970, this forest covers ground which was, between the 13th and 16th centuries, used by the monks of Newminster Abbey for the grazing of their flocks and herds. If you are lucky enough you may catch a glimpse of a roe deer grazing outside the confines of the forest.

 

4. Continue to follow the fence downhill to the boggy depression, which is the gathering ground of the Ainsey Burn, before climbing easily to the 615 metre top of Cushat Law (NT 928137). Locally, `cushat` means `wood-pigeon` and `law` means `hill` and ,rising above the vast swathe of forest, this hill is often referred to as the Monarch of Kidland. To the north of the fence lies an old shelter cairn from which there are excellent views to the whaleback bulk of the Cheviot and the conical Hedgehope Hill, whilst to the east the distant North Sea is visible. For the rough descent into the Upper Breamish Valley there is no path and, therefore, it is necessary to initially to leave the shelter cairn on a magnetic bearing of 4 degrees for approximately 500 metres and then on a bearing of 30 degrees, heading steeply towards the lonely farm of Low Bleakhope (NT 934153) far below, keeping well to right of  Hareshaw Cleugh. The farm can be best skirted on the eastern side to join the single track tarmac road which follows the course of the ancient Salters Road as it shadows the River Breamish towards the remote head of the valley. Follow this road until you reach the fence marking the boundary of High Bleakhope (NT 927157). Climb the short sharp embankment to the right of the fence and pick up the rough stone track which climbs diagonally up the side of High Cantle in a north westerly direction.  On reaching the fence which runs across the saddle, turn left and continue over rough and boggy ground over the top of Shielcleugh Edge and on to the rocky Coldlaw Cairn (NT 914180). This is perhaps one of the most isolated and wild places in these wind blown hills, so take time to savour the atmosphere before setting off on the final leg of your trip through England`s northern extremities.

 

 

Uswayford nestling below Bloodybush Edge

 

5. Your route stays with the fence as it heads north easterly to the flat and relatively uninteresting top of Comb Fell before descending gently to a boggy col from where the ascent of Hedgehope Hill begins.  As you gain height the ground becomes drier and within a short while the large summit cairn, with its trig point perched high on top, is reached (NT 943198). From here there are superb views to the North Sea where Bamburgh Castle can be picked out on a clear day. Bidding goodbye to the height you have enjoyed for many miles you now descend steeply north easterly along a faint single track path until the gradient begins to ease. Now follow the path eastwards across the moorland of Kelpie Strand. At the southern end of Long Crags continue towards and then around the impressive Housey Crags, poised grandly above the Harthope Valley, before descending sharply to the footbridge over the chattering Harthope Burn. Celebrate the end of a classic round of hills by refreshing your tired toes in the crystal clear waters of this loveliest of burns. They have earned it.

 

 

Distance

37km (23 miles )

Total Ascent

1560 metres

Grading

Strenuous

Start

Harthope Valley (NT 954225 ), (NT 933221), (NT 896194), (NT 861148), (NT 870138), (NT 892138), (NT 928137), (NT 934153), (NT 927157), (NT 914180) & (NT 943198)

Time

10 hours

Nearest Town

Wooler

Terrain

Mainly mixed fell some pathless , boggy in places, with steep ascents & descents, some stone paths & a very short stretch of tarmac

Maps

OS Explorer ( 1:25000 ) OL 16. Harveys Superwalker ( 1:40000 ) The Cheviot Hills

Accommodation

Wooler Youth Hostel.  Telephone 01668 281365. Small hotels & guest houses in Wooler & two caravan parks/camp sites

Public Transport

None ( except to Wooler )

Tourist Information

Rothbury National Park Centre. Telephone 01669 620887

 

 

NOW READ `THE CLASSIC CHEVIOT ROUND`

EXTRA! EXTRA! READ ALL ABOUT IT?

 

NEXT: THE ULTIMATE KIDLAND HORSESHOE

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Devised, written & photographed: Geoff Holland 2005

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