Floor Pan Text
Floor Pan Replacement Isn't That Difficult, "BUT" It's Time Consuming. Every Spot Weld Must Be Found & Drilled Out,
But Only Thru The Panels Not The Support Frame . The Area Along The Tranny Tunnel Usually Has The Most Spot Welds & Seem To Be The Hardest To See.
It Is Easier To Remove The Pans If You Have A Lift Or Some Means To Get The Car
In The Air. I Built My Self A Cantilevered Lift Which Raises The Car about 3 Ft. Off The Ground, Making Access To The Underside Much Easier. I Found Cutting Out The Panels From Underneath, To Be Easier & Less Chance Of Cutting The Main Harness, Gas or Brake Lines. Afterward I Used An Air Chisel & Drill To Remove The Spot Weld Strips. After Grinding Every Spot Smooth, We Started Fitting The New Floor Pan. These Were Purchased From Brit-Tek (www.brittek.com).
They Had The Seat Studs & Wiring / Brake Line Trough Studs Already Installed
And Were Manufactured In England. They Fit & Look
Like The Originals. After You Have Fitted Your New Pan You Must Prepare It By
Drilling A Series Of Holes All Around The Perimeter @ About 3/4" to 1" Apart
Using A 1/4 Or 5/16 Drill Bit. These You Will Spot Weld To Your Prepared
Sub Frame. Care Must Be Taken While Spot Welding Not To Build-Up Too Much Heat
& Warp Your Panel. I Suggest Spotting The Panel In Several Area's First For
Position And Making Sure The Panel Is Tight @ All Points Against The Sub Frame.
Then Go Back & Do A Series Of Welds Watching The Heat...Cool With A Wet Cloth
And Wait Until The Welded Area Has Cooled Before Proceeding. I Prefer To Use
Auto Body Caulk On The Underside At All Lap Joints. This Keeps The Moisture
Out.
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