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The subiquitous coconut offers every part of itself
for some essential household need, but is also grown for commercial
purposes. The outer husks are buried in water pits next to the house
until the fibres are separated and can be taken out for driving,
beating, teasing and twisting by hand into ropes. It is a cottage
industry undertaken by women all along the way from Cochin to Iranjalakudda. At Cochin a coir factory on Gundu island, processes
the raw fibre into mats and high-quality floor covering. In the same
way, screwpine, kora grass, split bamboo, pineapple fibre and rice
straw are skillfully gathered by both men and women and made into
mats and baskets for every purpose.
Geography is destiny. In the case of Kerala, the gift of life is
brought annually by the monsoon winds to the 597 km coastal strip of
rich tropical land between the Arabian Sea and the wall of mountains
known as the Western Ghats . The mountains are breached by the 15 km
wide Palghat Gap. The highest peak, Annamalai (in Devikulam
district) is 2 ,775 m, but there are several beautiful hill stations
and places of pilgrimage deep inside the wilderness, like Sabarimala.
Apart from this, there are 44 rivers that run down the verdant
watershed, 41 of these flowing westwards.
The monsoons have been likened to a battalion of grey elephants.
For three- and-a-half months, Kerala receives the full brunt of the
winds that bring rain to the entire sub-continent. The tall palm
trees flatten themselves against the attack like well-trained
soldiers, but rarely break. The red earth is churned into rivulets
of blood. The heavens are cracked open by terrible thunder. Every
individual, big or small, carries an umbrella under the arm,
unfurled within seconds to create a black drag on-line of jostling
scales. In the old houses grandmothers sit reading from the
Ramayana, while children gather round a hanging lamp filled with
light like a golden lotus.
Once the rains have passed, the country swells up with a
voluptuous luxuriance. The system of canals known as the backwaters,
formed by linked-up rivers turns the countryside into a sheet of
shining water. People live a semi-aquatic life, bathing, washing,
planting rice, banana, tapioca, fishing or tending the coconut
plantations, moving from one place to another on their flat
rice-barges or single- paddle canoes. It's difficult to make out
where the land ends and the water begins. Water birds hover over the
surface of the water. Tiny lotus-like flowers scatter the rim like a
net of pearls.
To the casual visitor, the Kerala countryside might well seem a
canopy of green, but to the close observer it is finely
differentiated. Each shade of green owes its existence to a valuable
cash crop that has been introduced and nurtured by the human hand.
There are the emerald green rice fields over which generations of
slim- waisted Kerala women have worked, and the fresh green banana
groves. The coconut plantations appear from the air like the whorls
on a giant's head, with the even taller areaca nut trees waving like
feathers. The coconut tree was originally brought to Kerala by
immigrants from Sri Lanka, possibly from Indonesia. It was the
Portuguese who developed it for commercial exploitation, bringing at
the same time the cashew tree, the papaya, and the pineapple. In the
mist-covered uplands, the hills are closely planted with the
billiard-green of tea bushes, the dark, rich green of coffee plants
with their hidden clusters of bright red berries, and the blue-green
rubber plantations, all of which owe their existence to the British
who cleared the original jungles. Of these only the poetically named
Silent Valley, the last of the tropical jungles, remains threatened,
but still clinging to its virgin existence.
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