YAMAHA FJ

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS LIST, version 1.6

Go straight to the Table Of Contents

FAQ maintainer: Christer (Chris) Vollmer <[email protected]>

INTRODUCTION

This list is a collection of information of potential interest to owners of the motorcycles, Yamaha FJ 1100 & Yamaha FJ 1200.

The information was initially contributed by the members of the yamahafj mailing list.

I compiled this 'FAQ list' from over 400 emails which I had saved from (when I joined) 1995 to June 1998 + maybe the fjlore files (older emails from the mailing list).

The update includes emails I have collected since assuming control of this FAQ in November 1999.

The structure of the FAQ was inspired by the DAT-HEADS FAQ written by R. Gilde.

[Patrik Sjoblom]

 

This FAQ, as far as I know, disappeared from the Internet when Chris Rawson’s site folded.

I managed to locate Patrik Sjoblom in Stockholm in June 2003 and agreed with Patrik to keep it updated.

No new information had been added since 2000, so I now have some catching up to do.

My first version, 1.5, concentrated on updating links, etc.

 

I encourage EVERYBODY to participate in making this list as informative as possible.

Please e-mail your best tips and experiences to me here: Christer (Chris) Vollmer

[Chris Vollmer], June 2003

 

NOTICE

Copyright 1998 - 1999 © Patrik Sjoblom on behalf of all contributors.
Copyright 1999 - 2000 © Chris Rawson on behalf of all contributors.

Copyright 2003 -          © Chris Vollmer on behalf of all contributors.

 

This list may be copied/distributed by any means, as long as the following requirements are met:
(1) The document is always copied in whole, unchanged (formatting is OK), and with this notice;
(2) The document is not sold or used in any commercial way.

Any other way not included above MUST contact the copyright holder Webmaster before doing so.

DISCLAIMERS

(1) While every effort has been taken to insure the accuracy of the information in this compilation, the contributors are not responsible for errors or omissions, or for damages resulting from the use of the information herein.

(2) The contributors are not liable for any consequences arising from use or misuse of the information contained herein. The contributors make no guarantee that the information contained herein is correct.

(3) The contributors' employers have nothing to do with the contributions.

(4) Vendor names and prices are included here for reference only. This is done without the vendor's permission. Prices are approximate, actual price must be established by the vendor.

FEEDBACK & CORRECTIONS

Each answer is followed by the author's name in square brackets. Authors are listed at the end of this list. If you would like to comment on a contribution, email to the author of the relevant section or to the yamahafj mailing list. If you have a question, email it to yamahafj list. If you would like to contribute a question AND answer, email it to the FAQ maintainer.

CHANGES SINCE THE PREVIOUS VERSION

  Are marked with:
  ! = changed or added something in this question

  + = added this question
  < = removed something for this question instead

v0.7, 17 kB , 8 Jan 1998, First release.
v0.8, 19 kB , Added on Gary Foreman's "Microfiche CD".
v1.0, 135 kB (html),now both in HTML and TEXT version.
v1.1, 151 kB (html), last version written by Patrik Sjoblom.
v1.2 - v1.4 ,  updated by Chris Rawson.

v1.5, 352 kB (html), updated by me, Chris Vollmer. Primarily concentrated on updating links and getting it back up on the Internet.

v1.6, 371 kB (html), updated by me, Chris Vollmer.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

GENERAL INFO ON THE FAQ

{0.1}         How can I obtain the latest copy of this FAQ?

{0.2}         Related Resources?

a) Workshop manual
b) The Yamahafj Mailing List
c} Webpages
d} Microfiche on CD-ROM
e) FJ stuff : T-shirts, mugs, pads, etc.

{0.3}   What FJ Owners Clubs are there?

a} Information about the United Kingdom - (UKFJOC)?
b} Information about the South Africa - (SAFJE)?
c} Information about the Japan - (JFJOC)?
d} Information about the Victoria, Australia - (FJMCV)?

 

Chapter 1   -  Tune-up and routine maintenance

{1.1}         Upgrading horns on the FJ, what to use?
{1.2}         How to oil/lube the throttle cables guide.
{1.3}         How can I reduce the weight of my FJ?
!{1.4}         What aftermarket seats are available for the FJ?
!{1.5}         Are there any case Guards made for the FJ?
{1.6}         Can I put a cruise control on the FJ?
{1.7}         Trailer hitches on FJ’s?
!{1.8}         How to install GIVI Bags?
{1.9}         Good/bad points about Non-Fango Bags?

 

Chapter 2   -  Engine, clutch and transmission

{2.1}         How to lower the RPM on my FJ 1100?
{2.2}         Where to mount oil temp gauge and what models can I use?
{2.3}         The famous 2:nd gear fault(+ price/Norway)?
{2.4}         The famous 2:nd...(FJ tranny rebuild+price/USA)?
{2.5}         Fixing 2:nd gear of 1985 FJ1100 (by a novice) instruction- Long.
{2.6}         Dyno run on the FJ?
{2.7}         Is the shift pattern on the FJ reversible?
{2.8}         What is a shift kit?
{2.9}         How to remove crankcase before changing the gear dogs?
{2.10}       What exactly is shimming the transmission, and the goal of doing it?
{2.11}       What exactly is Norwegian Racing Twine (NRT) and why is it useful?

+{2.12}      How do I perform a Quick Clutch Slave Test?

+{2.13}      Do I have to remove the fairing to get the valve cover off?

+{2.14}      Where can I get the valve "Tappet Adjusting Tool" or bucket depressor? / Build your own!

 

Chapter 3   -  Fuel and exhaust systems

{3.1}         How loud is a replacement exhaust compared to stock?
{3.2}         How do I get those drain carb screws out (without destroying them)?
{3.3}         What jet kit should I buy, "K&N Dynajet" or "Factory jet kit"?
{3.4}         What are the Factory jet kit settings?
{3.5}         How many hp would I gain with a V&H SS2R ?
{3.6}         What gas mileage should I be getting?
{3.7}         Auxiliary gas tank?
{3.8}         How do the tunable exhaust systems work(Supertrapp)?
{3.9}         Weights saving from stock pipes?
{3.10}       What jet kit do I need to keep the stock smoothness?
{3.11}       Best jet/needle for FJ 1200 with SS2R pipe + individual K&N?
{3.12}       Which size of pilot jets makes the engine run cooler?
{3.13}       What is a Supertrapp exhaust?
{3.14}       Running out of gas or do I have a tank venting problem? a.k.a. It just dies on me!

+{3.15}      How should I set the Pilot screws on the carbs?

 

Chapter 4   -  Ignition system

{4}

 

Chapter 5   -  Frame, suspension and final drive

{5.1}         Fork seal gap up or down? (Wrong in Clymer handbook!!)
{5.2}         How to disconnect the anti-dive mechanism?
{5.3}         Sprocket combinations and speed?
{5.4}         How to prevent damage to the fork tubes?
{5.5}         Lower dust/oil seal for steering head?
{5.6}         Steering head bearing replacement guide.
{5.7}         Replacing FJ fork seal and upper bushing trick.
{5.8}         What are Works performance springs?
{5.9}         What bearings are used for the rear suspension bushings?

+{5.10}      Can I replace the front forks?

+{5.11}      David R’s Inexpensive FJ Fork Seal Driver and Fork Cap Removal Tool

+{5.12}      How do I do a Thundercat front end conversion?

 

Chapter 6   -  Brakes, wheels and tires

!{6.1}         What replacement rotors/disc can I buy?
{6.2}         Can I use six pot calipers(YZF750)on my FJ?
{6.3}         Are EBC sintered metallic pads any good?
{6.4}         Brakes pads numbers for EBC & Ferrodo?
{6.5}         Can I put on fully floating disc on my FJ(ISR)?
{6.6}         Which tire pressure should I use?
{6.7}         What steel braided lines should I buy?
{6.8}         What companies sells steel braided lines(USA)?
{6.9}         Genesis rear wheel on FJ + better tire.
{6.10}       Are crossplys as good on the standard bike as radials?
{6.11}       Mileage differences between mc radials/bias plys?
{6.12}       Recommendation on a pressure brake bleeder?
{6.13}       What's an example of aftermarket magnesium wheels with floating disks?
{6.14}       What front/rear wheel bearings should I buy?
{6.15}       Can the FJ ABS system be repaired?

+{6.16}       How do I fix a front end wobble?

 

Chapter 7   -  Fairing and bodywork

{7.1}         How do I fix my damaged ABS plastic (how to weld plastic)?
{7.2}         Replace the choke knob/screw?
{7.3}         Replacement mirrors?
!{7.4}        What Yamaha colour codes do I have on my FJ?

 

Chapter 8   -  Electrical system

{8.1}         How can I fix the FJ Fuel Gauge Oscillating?
{8.2}         My headlight fuse keeps blowing, what to do?
!{8.3}        Battery boil over due to the OEM Rectifier/Regulator? / Build your own voltage regulator?

+{8.4}        How do I rewire the Headlight relays?

 

Chapter 9   -  Various, recall etc.

{9.1}         What are Legend cars?
{9.2}         What year was my bike built? (i.e. Identification numbers)
{9.3}         Are there any m/c salvage yards?
{9.4}         Has there been any recall for the FJ?

 

Chapter 10   -  Wiring diagrams

{10}

 

Chapter 11   -  Conversion factors

+{11}

 

Contributors (email addresses)
Thanks to ....(read the bottom)

 

GENERAL INFO ON THE FAQ

 

{0.1} How can I obtain the latest copy of this FAQ list?

Both HTML and TEXT exist of the FAQ list, see www-page below.
The most up-to-date copy of this list can be retrieved from:

WWW:  http://kickme.to/fj1200 or http://drive.to/fj1200,

or from Patrik Sjobloms page at http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/1039/ .

TOC

{0.2} Related Resources?

a) Workshop manual

My advice is to buy Yamaha's OEM Service Manual on CD from Gary Foreman at www.fj1100.com

and if you need a second manual,

buy the new colour version of the Hayne's manual “Yamaha FJ1100 & 1200 Fours, ’84 to ‘96. (ISBN 1 85960 229 0)
The Clymer manual is not as good as the Haynes. ( I have read both Haynes and Clymer for my FJ1100 '84/ PS)

[Patrik Sjoblom & Chris Vollmer]

b} The Yamahafj Mailing List

This list is being hosted by Netpath, Inc. of Burlington, NC, USA. The main focus of the mailing list is for discussions relating to Yamaha motorcycles in general and the FJ series of motorcycles in particular. (FJ 1100/1200).

This is not a moderated list per se, but rather an "overseen" list. Most discussions are legitimate in this area if they focus on motorcycling and especially on FJs.

Please participate in this area. We welcome discussions from all of our members!

Join the list by writing this in the body of the message (do NOT write anything in the Subject area):

         To JOIN the list, send a message to [email protected] with the following in the message body:

subscribe yamahafj [email protected]
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To LEAVE the list, send a message to [email protected] with the following in the message body:

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The "end" makes it skip you signature. The list is maintained by Chris Laforet and overseen by Lee Carkenord.

If you have any problems subscribing, email Chris or Lee.

Make sure your email address is correct when you subscribe/unsubscribe or the server will not be able to send you mail!

 

[Chris Vollmer]

c} Webpages:

http://www.fjclub.co.uk/ or http://www.fjoc.com/ - UK FJ Owners Club

http://www.micapeak.com/reg/bikes/FJ/ - Yamaha FJ registry

The FJ Resource - by Amy

www.fj1100.com – by Gary Foreman

Riva Yamaha parts Finder

FJOC UK's parts fiche site

The Aussie FJ 1100 & 1200Home Page

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/ - Yamaha USA
http://www.yamaha-motor.co.jp/eng/group/0002.html - Yamaha global links

N.B. I also have some German FJ links on my FJ-site at http://kickme.to/fj1200
 

[Chris Vollmer]

d} Parts Microfiche on CD-ROM. Read more about it at: http://www.fj1100.com/

Price: 15-20 USD, see www.fj1100.com for more info

 

e) FJ stuff : T-shirts, mugs, pads, etc

 

Follow this link: http://www.gwfweb.com/tshirts/

 [Chris Vollmer]

TOC

{0.3} What FJ Owners Clubs are there?

* United Kingdom - (UKFJOC) http://www.fjoc.com/

* South Africa - (SAFJE) http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/4370/index.htm
* Japan - (JFJOC) http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/4370/japanese.htm
* Germany - (Effjott-IG) http://www.effjott-ig.de/
* Australia - (FJMCV) http://fjxjr.dyndns.org/

* The Netherlands - http://www.fj1200.nl/

[Chris Vollmer & Jeff Domey]

a} Information about the United Kingdom - (UKFJOC)?

"United Kingdom FJ Owners Club". Contact Mark "Ernie" Lodge ([email protected]) for more information.

We have over 1500 members internationally (most in UK)

Below some information about the club:

To members we offer:

* Quarterly Magazine full of FJ tidbits and Technical advice.
* Club Runs in the UK + annual trip to France Technical Advice line run by Phil Hacker who services FJ's for a living Technical Manual with step by step guides to servicing etc.
* Free Accommodation Guide where you are guaranteed an FJ welcome.
* Free Accessory Catalogue full of FJ Parts - some of which we have specially made.
* Cheap servicing for anyone willing to travel to Bristol Membership fee of £18 UK Members (£23 outside UK) (includes postage).
* The Accessory Catalogue is freely available to non members as you don't have to join the Club to buy parts.
* If interested in joining please e-mail me at [email protected] and I'll send you an application form and /or further details. If you just want a copy of the Catalogue, please e-mail your full postal address. Also read: http://www.fjclub.co.uk/ Hope you join us!

[Mandy Parker & Chris Vollmer]

b} Information about the South Africa - (SAFJE)?

c} Information about the Japan - (JFJOC)?

d} Information about the Victoria, Australia - (FJMCV)?

TOC

{1.1} Upgrading horns on the FJ, what to use?

I did the straight swap of the $11-12 horn by Fiam from the local auto parts stre, 130 db, I did just the high tone, a nice improvement. I can now here my horn at 80 with earplugs in, heard nothing before. No relay, bent the stock bracket some, stock wires. If I were to add a second horn I would hook to my more recently installed accessory block that runs off a relay but I don't think it is necessary for just the swap. I bought 2 horns from Auto Palace, 130 DB each, one high note and one low note, and mounted them onto the front brake line junction, removing the original bracket. I took a beefy line directly from the battery and hooked up the horn switch to a relay. (A must) They are FIAMM horns cost $13 each, the relay about $3. (Suggest to always use a fused line coming from the battery). It sonds really loud The 2-tone makes a big difference. Be careful about the mounting. These horns have to be solidly mounted in order to work. Otherwise they get muffled.

[John Irvine/Ahmet]

TOC

{1.2} How to oil/lube the throttle cables guide.

Yes, and it's fairly, easy. I use 10W30 oil. Here are the steps.

1. Remove the two screws that secure the throttle housing to the handlebar.
2. Hold cable end high and apply several drops of lubricant to cable.
3. Coat metal surface of disassembled throttle twist grip with suitable all-purpose grease.

[Jair Larson]

TOC

{1.3} How can I reduce the weight of my FJ?

Because the bike is fairly basic about the only way to effectively reduce weight is to replace existing parts with lighter ones. I was able to reduce the weight of my FJ by just over 50 pounds. I replaced the wheels with magnesium ones and the exhaust with a 4 into 1 SuperTrapp. Beyond that weight loss becomes very difficult, for example: fabricating new parts out of lighter material.

[Mark Wallace]

TOC

{1.4} What aftermarket seats are available for the FJ?

Links to manufacturers of aftermarket seats;

Corbin

http://www.corbin.com/yamaha/8493fj.shtml - US, http://www.corbin.de/ - Europe, Germany

Sargent Cycle Products;

http://www.sargentcycle.com – US, www.sargentcycle.co.uk – UK, www.amcmotorcycles.com – AUS, NZ,

And of course the two seats that the UK FJOC sells, the Outback Touring seat (£ 92) and the Grand Touring seat (£ 179).

[Chris Vollmer]

Corbin makes motorcycle seats among other things. The seats are made when ordered and can be customized. When I ordered a seat I called Corbin directly (in 1992). I gave them my height and told them not to increase the reach to the bars, they got this part right. I was told 2-3 weeks for delivery this part wasn't right, it took 5.5. The cost was 190 for the seat and 99 for the backrest for a total of about 290.00. I opted for the large backrest (it comes in two sizes) which is about the size of an 8.5x11(inch) sheet of paper.

The lean angle on the back rest is adjustable and it's removable by removing the seat and one Allen screw; it has two height settings. Only the 2 metal latches need to be removed from the old seat. The seat latched right on but is a little tighter, i.e. you gotta push to latch it.

[Scott Pivnik]

I solved this one by putting a couple of washers under each latch to effectively raise the seat a tad. It snaps right on just like stock. You may have to experiment with the number of washers to make it fit perfectly.
The seat is at least an inch shorter. This is accomplished by using much smaller rubber pads and thinner more dense foam.

The seat transmits a little more buzziness, but the firmer feel I think compensates.

My wife is about average size and the lady part of the seat (its called a Gunfighter and Lady) is at least a couple inches too narrow for her, not that the stock one was any better. Also the rider sits so far back that its a real friendly situation although its easy to move forward to where you're up against the tank. The firm seat is great for long trips and gives a much more secure feeling because you sit in a pocket and the passenger really needs a backrest for any trip over a few miles.

[Mark Wallace]

TOC

{1.5} Are there any case Guards made for the FJ?

Renntec engine bars (UK) at http://www.renntec.com. Prices from 2003.

Yamaha FJ1200 - black E/bar  Ref: REN10019B
Price:  £58.00

Yamaha FJ1200 '91 on - black E/bar  Ref: REN10021B
Price:  £58.00

Also, look at http://kickme.to/fj1200 under the “Modifications” menu, and then click on “Bob’s FJ1200”. There are photos of Renntec engine bars on his FJ.

[Chris Vollmer]

There is a Yamaha case guard that bolts to the frame. They're a tubular chromed bar about 10 inches long. They stick out from the frame about 3 inches. The lower cowling on my `89 had to have two holes cut in it, one on each side. The holes are about 1 x 2 inches. The case guards were made to go on the FJ1100 but the mounts are on the 1200 frame as well (at least the `89s), the 1100 had a smaller lower cowling so it doesn't require any mods. The cost was 69.00 and I don't think they are made any more, at least they are not shown in the Yamaha catalogue. They look good but aren't very noticeable being so small. They would basically protect the engine when the bike falls over and may be a good place for driving lights and/or Hi-way pegs. I found after about an hour in the saddle my knees were getting sore so I mounted a set of pegs on the guards. The pegs fit on no problem and are high enough so they won't ever scrape. I don't really keep my legs on the new pegs for any length of time because of the awkward ergonomics but it really helps to stretch for a few minutes.

[Mark Wallace]

TOC

{1.6} Can I put a cruise control on the FJ?

Yes. There is a very simple throttle stop made by Vista Cruise, its the Yamaha model for DUAL throttle cable bikes. It costs about 18.00 and I replaced the grips at the same time. The stock grips have an inner flange that is too big, the Oury Street grips work just fine. I do a lot of open road cruising and I wouldn't be without one. These are available at most shops. I've mounted one of these on an `89 no problem. A `93 I put one on required about 15 minutes of fiddling with the mounting bracket to get it to line up with one of the throttle mount screws.

[Mark Wallace]

Having problems mounting the Vista Cruise on a ’92 FJ?

Turn the mounting plate around so when it’s slid up on the throttle tube it rides between the cables where they enter the throttle housing (underneath).

This keeps the entire mechanism from turning when the friction lock is applied.
My first one had a metal H shaped tab that bolted to the bottom of the housing using one of the cable retainer screws.

The tab on the vista cruise then fit into the slot of the H to hold it in position.
Best I remember mine was for the double cable setup as well.

[Frank Moore]

TOC

{1.7} Trailer hitches on FJs?

This set up actually works pretty well and I'm of the belief that its safer to tow it than stow it on the bike. I had a hitch custom made and it cost about 100.00. It mounts to the rear exhaust mounts, the turn signal mounts and another mount on the frame about a foot in front of the turn signal mount. This third mount point was already on the frame and I think its for luggage. I pulled a trailer with a Goldwing in the past and this setup feels about the same. Of course the mileage goes down by about  20 percent (about 42 down to around 34). You can definitely feel it back there, when its fully loaded the trailer grosses about 350 pounds. I probably notice it most in roll-on acceleration, instead of 70 to 90 in a heartbeat its more like two heartbeats. Several very critical points: The swing arm must clear the hitch through it's full motion (the rear wheel has 4.8 inches of travel). The ball on the hitch should be 12 to 15 inches off the ground when the bike is on the ground. Run 5 wires to the trailer not 4: Brake, ground, left turn, right turn, and running lights. Put a swivel connection in place of the ball or on the trailer tongue.

[Mark Wallace]

TOC

{1.8} How to install GIVI Bags?

Look at http://kickme.to/fj1200 under the “Modifications” menu, and then click on “Bob’s FJ1200”. There’s a good write-up with photos of installing GIVI’s on an FJ.

[Chris Vollmer]

For those who wanted to know my GIVI installation story, here it is.
According to the old message, it was done 27 May 97.

///////////////////////////////////////////
I finally got around to putting the GIVI bags on my '86 and am now overcome with remorse. What have I done? It used to be a sleek, powerful, beautiful machine. Now it's, it's a .... a GOLD WING?! Aaaaaagghhh!!
OK, it's not _that_ bad, but it is different and I'll definitely have to get used to the way it looks now. I'll probably love it when I ride it to work Tuesday and don't have to drag the tank bag and backpack into the office with me.
FWIW, it took me about four hours to mount everything. This is no doubt _much_ longer than 90% of you would require because I'm a lousy wrench and I panic a lot. Heck, it took me half an hour just to get started because I was staring at the diagram trying to figure out where to begin. The diagram is clear enough but it seems as if you're supposed to put everything together at once, which is not very practical. Eventually, I figured it out, though, and just put everything together loose to be sure it fit, then went around and tightened things down gradually. It must have worked, because the mounts don't move around and the bags, which I can see in the mirrors while I'm riding, don't move either.
Also FWIW, I started on the left side because that's the view the diagram gives. Oh, and I removed the rear bodywork first, as someone's suggestion earlier. Good call, whoever that was, thanks.
Panic episode #1: Before diving into the parts, I decided to check the turn signals to make sure they worked. Unplugged left rear turn signal. Plugged in GIVI turn signal, turned power on, pushed switch to left. Heard relay click, signal not working. Pushed switch to right, stock turn signal functioned as designed. Hmmm. Turned power off. Switched wires. Heard relay click, signal not working. Pushed switch to right, stock turn signal functioned as designed. Hmmm. Turned power off. Switched wires. Turned power on, pushed switch to left. Heard relay click, signal not working. Pushed switch to right, again stock turn signal functioned as designed. Unplugged GIVI turn signal, plugged in other GIVI turn signal. Repeated above sequence. No joy.
Uh oh.
Stay calm. Think. Well, _both_ of them can't be bad, right? There had to be another reason. Was it possible that... nah, they wouldn't. Just out of curiosity I checked and, sure enough, NO BULB. No wonder it didn't work. After mumbling a few mild oaths about cheap Italians, I took the bulb from one of the stock signals, plugged in the GIVI signal and tried it again. Ha! Crisis averted.
Thinking about it later, I suppose I wouldn't ship a light bulb with the signal either, since there's a good chance it wouldn't survive the trip, but at least they could tell you there's no bulb. They obviously didn't have incompetent mechanics (me, in other words) in mind when they wrote the instructions.
All went nicely until I got to the very top mount, which is a clamp-type affair. Someone else here (again, I don't remember who) mentioned that the bolt was a little long. Yup, it was, all right; it jammed right into the rubber-like tray under the tail piece. No problemo. I just turned it the other direction and went on.
Got the left side done and mounted one of the bags. Holy cow, this thing is w i d e. Hmm. Oh well. I did the right side much more quickly, since I now knew how everything fit together. I mounted both bags and looked at it.

Now it was _really_ W I D E. Sheesh. I took them off and proceeded to put the bodywork back on.
Panic episode #2. Remember that too-long bolt which I reversed? It was now keeping the tail piece from going on. I got out the hacksaw, cut off the end of the bolt. Still too long; in fact, the nut was too big. The only way to fix it was to take everything apart and start over.
I lost it. Absolutely lost it. Stomped around the garage yelling, swearing, etc. I _hate_ it when I have to start over because of one, OK, two stupid bolts. After venting my spleen I looked at the situation again and decided that eliminating the washer would allow sufficient clearance for the tail piece to go back on. I was right. Another crisis solved.
Moral: Don't reverse the bolt.. Just cut about half an inch off the bolt and everything will be fine.
The subsequent road test with the bags about half-filled showed everything working. I was especially sensitive to how the back end felt, looked for any tail wagging, change in stability, etc. Nothing negative. The only change is that, curiously, it now rides more nicely. I say "curiously" because I've not changed the preload on the Works shock since I got the bike and it's always felt rather abrupt over seams in the pavement. My theory was that it was bottoming and needed more preload. (Before someone asks, I didn't change the preload because I don't have an appropriate spanner, nor do I have a punch.
One of these days...)
Apparently it was just a bit too much spring rate, because now it soaks up bumps without any wallowing. The gent from whom I bought the bike is about 6'6" and, when he bought the shock, weighed about 280 lbs. A big boy, in other words, and while I'm a big boy myself, I'm not _that_ big. Works Performance apparently built the shock to his specs and the additional weight of the bag mounts and bags seems to have brought the spring and damping into better balance. Very nice, actually.

Bottom line: I'm glad I bought the bags, and they'll be quite handy for toting things to work and other places. And I'll get used to the appearance eventually. Sure is wide, though...

[Steve Wassenich]

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{1.9} Good/bad points about Non-Fango Bags?

Good points: They are cheaper than the GIVI system. Easy to Install (I'm a mechanical novice as well). The hard bags have never leaked and they have been in some pretty gruelling weather. You can fit two crash hats in the 48ltr top box. The Non-Fango system makes the bike quite a bit narrower than the GIVI system when the side bags are on the bike. They also come with three different mounting kits depending on your particular FJ.
Bad points: When Installing the top box mounting rack use some form of screw lock. Otherwise the two tapered bolts will work loose and end up falling inside the tube racking. This has personally happened to me twice and has made the top box insecure. The side bags when fully loaded kiss the exhaust pipe, this can be over come by swapping the two brackets around that go between the top box mounting bracket and the side panel mounting bracket. This then gives you easy access to the seat lock as well, as getting the key in the seat lock with the racking in the correct fixing position can be a major hassle. If you put the carrying rack on top of the top box and then use the box for storing your crash hats, watch that the screws used for the carrying rack don't scratch your crash hat. The last bad point is where the racking system bolts on to the alloy plate (that holds the foot pegs and exhaust) is prone to breaking.
Well that's the pro's and con's of my hard bag system.

[Alan Jones]

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{2.1} How to lower the RPM on my FJ 1100?

Sprockets - the FJ1200 has a 39, 40 or 41 tooth rear sprocket, while the FJ1100 has a 42 tooth rear sprocket. I do a lot of highway riding, so I am thinking about changing to the 40 tooth. At 60 mph, my bike is pulling approx. 4,000 RPM indicated. A change to a 40 tooth rear sprocket would result in a 3,800 RPM at 60 mph. Is that what you FJ1200 people see? The sprockets are about $53 for aluminium and $25 for steel.

[Darin C. Ginther]

Also see my two gearing tables for “Rpm vs. Speed gearing tables for the FJ” at http://kickme.to/fj1200, under the “modifications” menu

[Chris Vollmer]

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{2.2} Where to mount oil temp gauge etc?

I mounted an oil temperature on my FJ. It's a meter with a little dipstick, to be placed in stead of the oil filler cap. The temp is measured by the oil spraying off the clutch. On normal riding it showing 80 degrees Celsius, and 100 degrees when I'm having fun. I consider that's ca. 5-10 degrees lower that the actual temp because the meter is cooled by air, and because the temp is inside the bike a little higher. I use it mainly to see if the temp is high enough to "Go for it....." I ordered the meter by "Hein Gericke". It's original an German company but has a few shops in Holland.
When I bought my FJ12, the previous owner had put the an oil temp gauge on the right side of the inner fairing panel and had an oil pressure gauge which screwed into the bottom of the engine case somewhere. By the time I got it, though, the face of the pressure gauge had become opaque and the temp gauge was erratic. Oh well.
On the helpful side, I do have a 1994 Lockhart catalogue which lists a digital oil temp gauge. The readout "sticks onto any flat surface", presumably with Velcro (tm, can't be too careful!) or two-sided tape. The "digital gauge threads into the OE oil sensor plug." They list five combinations of sensor size and thread pitch. I looked the gauge up in the 95 catalogue last night and it was $115. Street and Competition(800-326-5487) carry oil temp gauges but the letter doesn't point to anything which is specifically designed for the FJ.

[Dirk Rietkerk/Steve Wassenich/Dave Kingsland/Walker, Richard D. JR]

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{2.3} The famous 2:nd gear fault (+ price in Norway)?

There are rumours that the new gearsets that Yamaha sells are now "undercut". Well....truth is that ALL motorcycle gears are undercut. If they weren't no-one would be able to get any power to the ground because all of the gears would just separate from each other on acceleration. The trouble is, on the early FJ's they did not cut them to a good enough angle to keep these things from coming apart after they've worn a little. The practice of "undercutting" second (and possibly others) really means taking those gear dogs and grinding them to a 6degree angle so that they will hold themselves better in the holes in its mating gear(I believe that stock is 4 degrees).
This is not something that can be done by anyone unless they have access to a milling machine. The dogs all have to be on exactly the same base circle,... so, that all of them contact the edge of the matching hole at the same time. Otherwise one or two would contact before the rest and you'd not have contact on all the dogs at once. Even though I didn't experience the famous 2. gear problem, I had my gearbox undercut by Motor Norge A/S in Alta(+47 78 436866) 1996. They charged 800 NKR for the gear undercutting job itself( = 200 NKR x 4 gears). I think this is cheap - and it made a really big difference to my previously somewhat clunky box. Now it's smoother, more comfortable and more precise than before.

[Grant Marko/Haarek Gamst]

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{2.4} The famous 2'nd...(FJ tranny rebuild+price/USA)?

This is what it took to fix my 2nd and 3rd gear "jumping outta gear" problem. My 84 FJ had 75,500 miles at time of repair. I removed the engine from bike, delivered engine only to repairman. I also re-installed engine myself. Labour was $270.....parts required as listed(prices are from 1996):

 

2nd wheel gear	$55
3rd wheel gear	$57
4th wheel gear	$68
5th wheel gear	$67
oil seal	$8
#1 shift fork.	$26
#3 shift fork.	$33
shift cam assy	$89
oil seal	$3
screw	$2
oil seal	$16
??? p/n 93109-08061-00	$2
2 shims	$2
Parts total	$428
Labor total	$270
Tax	$16
GRAND TOTAL	$714

A couple of the parts listed above were described to me as being "borderline re-useable". I told the nice man to replace them.

[Lee Carkenord]

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{2.5} Fixing 2'nd gear of 1985 FJ1100 (by a novice) instruction - Long.

Tools: 36mm socket, 30mm socket, Torx #30 bit, snap-ring pliers, metric hex keys (Allen wrenches), metric wrenches and sockets, clutch holding tool, torque wrench, and Yamaha FJ1100 Service Manual.
Medium strength (non-permanent) Loctite, and Threebond #1211. All "left/right front/back" orientation is relative to how the engine normally sits in the bike. If you're doing this in a winter climate, and your engine will be open for a few weeks, take as many pieces as you can indoors where it's warm, to save them from possible corrosion. Everywhere possible I put bolts back in their boltholes after disassembly, so I don't lose them and so the boltholes and threads don't collect dirt or get damaged.

1.      - go for a last ride to heat and stir the oil.

2.      - remove chin scoop.

3.      - drain oil and remove oil filter housing .

4.      - remove complete exhaust system.

5.      - remove fairing air scoops, and fairing

6.      - remove seat, battery, side panels, and fuel tank .

7.      - loosen the four air intake hose clamps from carb intakes.

8.      - remove 3 air cleaner box bolts (2 sides 1 top)

9.      - slide airbox back

10.  - remove boost control hose and choke cable from carbs. Make careful note of how these hoses are routed, as you may not remember at all by the time you're putting the bike back together again.

11.  - loosen four hose clamps on the front of the carbs

12.  - lift the carbs out; the group of 4 hoses feeding down and back on the right side of the carbs may be tough to pull up and out, and again take note of how they're routed so you can do it when you put them back together again.

13.  - remove throttle cables from carbs

14.  - undo crankcase vent hose from the crankcase below the airbox

15.  - undo the electrical connectors to the left and behind the battery, and remove the battery ground cable from the motor

16.  - remove the sidestand cutoff switch assembly and cable

17.  - lift the flexible heat shield and remove the starter cable from the starter

18.  - remove oil cooler from front of engine

19.  - remove clutch release assembly from left side

20.  - remove gear shift pedal arm from the splined gear shift shaft on left side

21.  - remove left crankcase cover (covers the chain drive sprocket), dowel pins, and clutch pushrod

22.  - pull the chain drive sprocket off the drive shaft (36mm socket, and you may have to loosen the drive chain)

23.  - remove the down tube frames (the bottom front sections of the square frame tubes), stays and collar

24.  - block up the engine

25.  - remove the final two long transverse bolts from back of engine. The top one is behind the shiny chrome plastic caps, and has a different hex key size on each end.

26.  - the engine can now be removed from the frame. I used motorcycle tie down straps wrapped around the engine, hooked to the end of a long 2x4 (wooden beam).
The 2x4 was pivoting on a sturdy camera tripod (on the right hand side of the bike), and my wife operated the other end of the 2x4. As she lowered the engine, I turned the engine 90 degrees clockwise (front of the engine facing right side of bike), and pulled the bottom of the engine out the left side of the bike until we could lay the front of the engine down flat on the floor. I could then unstrap the engine, and manhandle it out from under the bike frame.

27.  - remove right side clutch/crankcase cover and dowel pins

28.  - remove the clutch spring and plates. Careful of the pushrod and the little ball behind it.

29.  - remove the clutch boss nut (30mm nut, and a good time to have a clutch holding tool), and the clutch boss.

30.  - put two bolts into the clutch collar, and hold the clutch housing while pulling the collar out (see the manual!)

31.  - remove oil pump drive gear (the collar behind this gear was tight, and tough to remove)

32.  - remove the oil baffle plate

33.  - remove oil pump driven gear (snap-ring pliers, and make sure to cover as much of the open crankcase you can with a cloth, so that if you drop the snap-ring it doesn't fall down the crankcase), and oil pump assembly. Careful of the 3 O-rings, collar and dowel behind it. The pump has to come off because it hides one crankcase bolt.

34.  - remove the starter motor and generator, as they each hide one crankcase bolt

35.  - remove left side crankcase end cover

36.  - remove the pickup coil base assembly (careful of the small loose dowel pin).
This bolt was exceedingly tight on my machine.

37.  - flip the engine upside down

38.  - I didn't remove the oil sensor from the oil belly pan, but unclamped its cable from the engine

39.  - remove the oil pan

40.  - remove oil strainer cover (this was tough, and has to be "pried" off without bending everything), then the housing under it

41.  - pull the relief valve out

42.  - remove main bearing retainer (from behind the clutch assembly) with Torx #30

43.  - remove crankcase bolts in reverse numbered order from 37 down to 1. The higher numbers are on "top" of the crankcase, so the engine is flipped upright for them again, then flipped upside down for the remainder.

44.  - lift the lower crankcase off the engine (careful of the loose crankcase dowels, and the half-clips on the bearings, and the little orange O-ring in the middle)

45.  - note the position of the "dowel pin" embedded in the bearings, and how they align with positioning slots in the two crankcase covers.

46.  - (pedantry warning of excessive detail!) The "drive" shaft is the one closest to the "back" of the engine, and the usual suspect 2nd/5th gear pair is the pair of gears on its left end (the left end of the drive shaft is where the small sprocket goes that drives the front of the chain to the rear wheel). The other shaft is the "main" shaft. The gear teeth are the obvious teeth on the outside edge (perimeter) of the gears, that mesh with the teeth of the gears on the other shaft. The power transfer done by the teeth is front to back between the two shafts. The dogs and windows are the parts of the gears that mate sideways between two gears on the same shaft, so power transfer is sideways between them.
The leftmost gear on the drive shaft is the "2nd wheel" gear, and has 6 "windows" in it. This gear is free spinning on the drive shaft (i.e. there is never any direct power transfer between this gear and the drive shaft), and cannot move sideways along the drive shaft. The next gear to its right on the drive shaft is the "5th wheel" gear, which has 3 "dogs" on its side pointing towards the windows of the 2nd wheel gear. This gear is splined to the drive shaft, so it always turns or is turned by the drive shaft's rotation, and it is free to slide sideways on the drive shaft. The 2nd wheel gear is the larger of the two, and its teeth mate to a gear on the other shaft. The 5th wheel gear does not mesh with any gear on the other shaft. The Number 1 (leftmost) shift fork mates directly to a collar on the 5th wheel gear. When not in second gear, these two gears do not touch each other, and rotate at different rates. When you shift your transmission to 2nd gear, the Number 1 shift fork slides the 5th wheel gear left, so that the 3 dogs mate with 3 of the windows in the 2nd wheel gear, thus creating a power transfer between the two shafts (engine power through the main shaft, into 2nd wheel gear, into 5th wheel gear, into the drive shaft, and out to the chain sprocket, the chain, and rear tire). Other than the friction between the dogs and windows, the Number 1 shift fork is the only thing holding the 2nd/5th wheel gears together during all that power transfer.

47.  - inspect all the gear dogs on both shafts (you can spin and move all the gears). The dogs on my 5th wheel gear were obviously rounded off on the outside leading edges. The dogs on all the other gears appeared fine. Also inspect the shift forks and drum, but this is where damage is less obvious to my untrained eye. If the 5th wheel gear is separating from the 2nd wheel gear under power, it is taking the Number 1 shift fork with it. That means the shift fork is almost certainly bent, and the forces against the grooves in the shift drum may have damaged the groove walls also. Interestingly enough, when I look at the dogs on all the other gears, I see perceptible undercutting (the width of the dog from front to back is less where it meets the gear than the width at the very outside tip of the dog). On the 5th wheel gear, however, the dogs appear to be perfectly "flat" (the same width everywhere).

48.  - back to the lower crankcase cover now; slide out the shift fork guide bar, and remove the shift forks

49.  - remove the gear change shaft

50.  - remove the shift cam stop lever and spring

51.  - remove shift cam bearing retainer

52.  - slide out the shift cam

53.  - back to the engine; lift out the drive shaft assembly (the shaft closest to the "back" of the engine)

54.  - on my model, the leftmost bearing is pressed onto the drive shaft. Therefore, remove all gears via the right hand end of the shaft (need snap ring pliers)

55.  - I bought a new 2nd/5th wheel pair (CDN$80/$104), a new Number 1 fork ($38), a few O-rings and circlips, medium strength (non-permanent) Loctite, and Threebond
#1211 (CDN$27!!)(instead of Yamaha Bond #1215).

56.  - undercutting: After talking to Larry at Niagara Race Crafters (near Niagara Falls, Canada), I shipped him my full drive shaft assembly with the old gears, the shift cam, the shift forks, and the 2 new gears I bought. I should have done this before I bought the new gears, as he said they can sometimes fully recover the existing gears depending on the extent of the wear. He adds 6 (or was that 7?) degrees of undercutting to the 3 dogs and all 6 windows (CDN$85 for doing the pair). Prices from 1999.
 

Finally got the gear assembly back again. Put the gear shift drum and forks back together, and put the drive shaft back in the upper crankcase. I then experimented with putting the lower crankcase back on top of the upper crankcase without any Threebond applied (a "dry" run), to make sure I could get the shift forks aligned with the gears properly with a minimum of fuss. Then apply the Threebond and do it for real. Make sure you check the gear shifting pattern through all 5 gears and neutral before you start bolting the crankcases together again. If you put your engine back in the bike without the gears shifting correctly, you may experience undue emotional stress.
Tighten the crankcase bolts in order from 1 to 37 with a torque wrench. Make sure you get the correct clamps back on the bolts.
Put the 3 Torx screw main bearing retainer back on (use Loctite where appropriate as indicated in the manual). Then the oil pan pressure relief valve, and the strainer housing. Before you put the oil strainer back on, clean out the screen. Mine had a surprising amount of debris in it. Put the oilpan back on.
Continue to reverse the disassembly steps, nothing fancy. When you're putting the engine back in the frame, make sure you route all cables and hoses correctly as you're doing it. It's a good idea to get the drive chain looped around in from of the drive shaft before you bolt the engine back into the frame (if you can), as it is tough to do it afterwards. Getting the carbs back in is the toughest part for me, since the airbox doesn't really slide back out of the way at all.
I reused the old oil filter at this time, and filled the engine with new oil. I started up the bike, and it runs and shifts correctly! Then I had to wait for a couple weeks for a day nice enough to take if for a short ride. Second gear is solid as a rock, which is wonderful. I even noticed that it takes a little more effort to get it out of 2nd and into 3rd.
I figure one ride is enough to circulate the oil and pick up some junk from all the work on the engine, so I immediately drain the oil again, change to a new filter and refill with new oil. Now I wait for the riding season to begin...
I installed the "newer" pair of gears in the bike, and I still have my original pair which are now undercut. The undercutting was indeed enough to recover them. Anyone interested in buying them? They can save a lot of time instead of waiting (perhaps weeks) for a shop to undercut yours for you...

[Terry Snyder]

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{2.6} Dyno run on the FJ?

Well, I took my bike into a local bike shop and had my 86 FJ run on their Dynojet Model 150 Dyno, thought you all might like a look. Got some good numbers, the graphs are really nice, but very hard to post. He had two other FJs that had been run on his dyno, and showed me the results from them as well. One of the was running REALLY rich, and was doing maybe 80 or so BHP peak, and another one was peaking at around 100 BHP, but was geared for 175 MPH! Unreal.
All in all, looked pretty good, made better HP that I thought it would. I just hope I didn't grenade anything in the process. He commented that my bike was running a little lean, but since it got better in the higher gears, that was probably fine.
86 FJ1200 - 30,000 miles - Completely Stock
Absolute Barometric Pressure: 29.06 in.Hg.
Vapour Pressure: -0.0090 in.Hg.
Intake air temp: 76.5 deg. F
Correction Factor: 1.01 SAE net
Correction Factor: 1.04 DIN 70 20 <--- whatever that means
T is in ft-lb - P is in hp

RPM	- Measured -		- Corrected SAE -		- Corrected DIN -
	T	P	T	P	T	P	Time
3500	63.4	42.2	63.8	42.5	66.0	44.0	0.0000
4000	66.7	50.8	67.1	51.1	69.4	52.8	0.3880
4500	66.9	57.3	67.3	57.6	69.6	59.6	0.8453
5000	66.7	63.5	67.1	63.9	69.4	66.1	1.2538
5500	68.2	71.4	68.6	71.9	71.0	74.3	1.6708
6000	71.6	81.8	72.0	82.3	74.5	85.1	2.0932
6500	72.4	89.6	72.9	90.2	75.4	93.3	2.4812
7000	72.1	96.1	72.5	96.6	75.0	100.0	2.8765
7500	70.8	101.2	71.3	101.8	73.7	105.3	3.2454
8000	68.7	104.6	69.1	105.2	71.5	108.9	3.6540
8500	66.0	106.8	66.4	107.4	68.7	111.1	4.0961
9000	61.4	105.2	61.8	105.8	63.9	109.5	4.5401

[Jimi]

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{2.7} Is the shift pattern on the FJ reversible?
Question:
Is the shift pattern on the FJ reversible to a GP pattern (down to upshift, up to downshift)
by reversing the knuckle on the shifter shaft?
Answer:
I also flipped the shifter on an older FJ that I had. It's pretty easy and can be even easier if you have access to some air tools. The first thing you need to do is remove the pinch bolt that holds the linkage to the shift shaft (the toothed spline coming out of the tranny). Flip it over so that the tab is now pointing down (180 degrees from were it was before).
It won't go back on, but you will be able to see the angle that the shift linkage must be at when it is finally flipped over. Hold the shifter in this new position and scribe the bracket that holds the pegs, exhaust bracket, etc. It's already notched somewhat to let the shift linkage go by, now all you have to do is increase the notch. Make sure you leave a little extra room in case you ever want to adjust the shifter position.
Now for the notching. If you have access to some air tools, you can remove the metal while the bracket is still on the bike by cutting, grinding and polishing to a smooth finish. Otherwise, remove the whole bracket and take it to a machine shop and have then mill out the notch. You might want to dress up a few areas with a little black paint. If you've already ridden a bike with GP (reversed) shifting, you're on your way. If you've never ridden this way be careful. Don't rev the bike to high for a while, that way if you have a brain fart and shift in the wrong direction, you won't over spin the motor. After a few days, you won't even give it a second thought. Hope this helps....

[insert from an old yamahafj post]

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{2.8} What is a shift kit?

A shift kit for the FJ is nothing more than a stiffer spring which controls the foot lever pressure. It makes it a bit trickier to shift but it solved the missing shift problem I was having. The spring is on the shaft from the foot lever on the RIGHT side of the bike. The engine side-cover is removed and the spring is accessed.

[Mark Wallace]

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{2.9} How to remove crankcase before changing the gear dogs?

With the motor upside down, lifting the bottom from the top is fine. This way your crankshaft wont move and you won't have to touch that part.  While you're in there, check the condition of the drive chain for the alternator (if the FJ has one), on my old xj750, the runner for this chain broke, the chain had been flapping around and had broken its lubricating oil nozzle.  It had been running so hot that the crank was blued around the sprocket for the chain.
The lower crankcase lifted away no problem. I can see the worn dogs and windows on the 2nd/5th gear pair on the "drive" shaft. The number 1 shift fork doesn't look bent, but it has a fair amount of marks/scrapes on it, so I'm replacing it also. All the other gear dogs look fine. Actually, all the other gear dogs appear to have an obvious undercut, but the 2nd gear dogs don't appear to have any undercut at all.
Drive axle 5th wheel 36y -17251-00-00 $104 CDN Prices from Nov 1998
Drive axle 2nd wheel 36y -17221-00-00 $80 CDN
Shifting fork number 1 36y -18511-00-00 $38 CDN

[Marcel Guldemond/Terry Snyder]

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{2.10} What exactly is shimming the transmission, and the goal of doing it?

As I understand it, it involves fitting exactly the right thicknesses of spacers between the gears on the gearbox shafts to get optimum gear alignment and engagement.

[Andy C. Pugh]

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{2.11} What exactly is Norwegian Racing Twine (NRT) and why is it useful?

If you stay with the Yamahafj list long enough, the topic of Norwegian Racing Twine will float by......like about now :-)

Some time ago we had a discussion on drive-chain connectors. Riveted master links vs. clip-secured master links, stuff like that. One of the Norwegian listers informed us that, in Norway, motorcycle road-racers are required to secure master-link clips with a "piece of string." Well "string", as in "Norwegian Racing String" just didn't sound right, too low-tech, so I substituted "twine" for "string", and Norwegian Racing Twine was born. I tried NRT out on my FJ, and figured it wouldn't last too long. To my surprise, it's stayed on for several thousands of miles, and from now on, I'm using NRT on my master-link clips!!!

[David L Mazzaferro (Mazz)]

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{2.12} How do I perform the Quick Clutch Slave Test?

 

{2.13} Do I have to remove the fairing to get the valve cover off?   

I have no trouble whatsoever adjusting the valves with the fairing on (mine's a `92).

You must (of course) remove the side panels, and slide the tank back and remove the scoops.

The only other thing that needs to come off to remove the valve cover and adjust the valves is that black piece that sits between the tank and fairing - the one that has the vent in it and sits directly below your forearm when you're in the riding position. I think you only need to remove the one on the right side too, not both of them. (You can remove either one to get the valve cover out, but removal of the one on the left requires removal of the choke knob as well.)
In any case, I've adjusted the valves on my `92 several times this way, and the fairing doesn't get in the way at all.

 

[Texas Ben]

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{2.14} Where can I get the valve "Tappet Adjusting Tool" or bucket depressor? / Build your own!

The latest UKFJOC catalogue has a valve tool for £36 ($55). This is a copy, the Yamaha OE is an unbelievable £76 ($120).

 FJ’ers in the US can buy it through Kent-Moore Tools dealers or from Yamaha Sportscenter in Texarkana, TX., phone number is 1-800-YAMAHA-0.

Canadian FJ’ers can buy it from Inglis Cycle in London, Ontario. Approx $35 CDN.

Want to build your own? (J.M.)

I made my own valve-shim-bucket-holder-downer gizmo in about ten minutes and it works really well. 

Gets terrific access to all the shims, because you can set the depth of the bucket to whatever you want, right down to max valve lift.

Here's how it goes:

 

                      - required are a 2" (50mm) long 10-32 (Ø 5mm) machine screw and a piece of steel about 1/4"x1/2"x1" (6x12x25mm)

                      - drill and tap a 10-32 (Ø 5mm) hole close to the end of the steel piece.

                      - grind off the threads on the screw end foor about 1/2" (12mm) and then file

                        a small "V" notch into the end, like the V-groove sparkplugs.

                      - remove one of the inner camshaft cap boltts (any one) and thread the screw through the metal piece. 

                        With that cam lobe pressing the bucket down,

                        hold the tool so it sits flat with the surface of the camshaft cap,

                        and the screw notch is holding the edge of the bucket in really close to the cap tower

                        (to give you as much room to manoeuvre as possible).

                      - mark on the tool where the cap bolt hole is underneath it, and drill a Ø 6mm (1/4") hole at that spot. 

                        Mine came out to exactly 10mm from the center of the 10-32 (Ø 5mm) hole to the Ø 6mm hole.

- you're done!

 

To use: remove valve cover, and remove one of the camshaft cap bolts (6mm) and install the valve tool with a slightly longer bolt.  Retorque the bolt.  With that cam lobe depressing the bucket all the way, swing the tool over so the V notch in the screw hovers over/on the very outer edge of the bucket.  Turn the cam so the lobe comes up, but the holder-downer screw keeps the bucket down. Remove shim, etc. etc.

 

I came up with this little tool idea after trying to buy the Yamaha tool and giving up in disgust! 

This is simple, free, and very effective.

 

If you prefer, change the length of the steel piece so that it can be fastened into the valve cover screw holes,

so as to not require removing/torqueing the cam cap bolts.  Your choice. Enjoy!          

 

                                                                     12-13 mm

                          _________

                        /         /|

                       /   _     / /

             1/4"---> /   (_)   / /_______

             (6mm)   /         / /   /

                    / (-+-)   / /  10mm between centres

       10-32NF---> /   |_|   / / __/____

         (Ø 5mm)    /         / /

                 /_________/ /

                 |         |/

                 |_________|

                       | |

                       | |

                       | |

                       | |

                       | |

                       |^|

 

                      (Ø 5mm)

 

[Joe Megyes  & Chris Vollmer ]

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{3.1} How loud is a replacement exhaust compared to stock?

 

Exhaust		change in restriction compared to stock	change in noise compared to stock
Supertrapp 4-1 Superlight Stainless	5 discs	more restrictive	nearly same
	10	nearly same	moderately louder
	15	a little less	much louder
	20	much less	obnoxious
V&H Supersport		much less	obnoxious
V&H SS2R		a little less	moderately louder
Motad Neta 4-2 (stainless downpipes & collector)		a little less	not louder
Cobra F1-S 4-2 slip-ons		a little less	much louder

The loudness rating is hard to quantify, actually,. as the reason for the change was the holes, cracks and bit of gas pipe involved in the 10 year old stock system when I bought it.

[Andy C. Pugh/Master Ho]

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{3.2} How do I get those drain carb screws out (without destroying them)?

It helps if the screwdriver is a snug fit in the slot of the screw. It lessens the change of slipping and buggering up the head of the screw too.
Plan A: If a truly big screwdriver (I've got one about 18" long) doesn't do the trick alone, try putting a wrench on the shaft of the screwdriver (assuming a square shank on the screwdriver), and give it a sharp rap.
Plan B: If you don't already have one of those hit-it-with-a-hammer impact drivers, now is an excellent time to add one to your toolkit. Reaching the #2&3 carb drain screws might be tough, but a sharp blow often does more to free a stuck bolt than steady torque.
Cheap trick for extending the reach of an impact driver: Both the driver and the screwdriver bit holder on mine are standard 3/8" (or is it 1/2"?) drive, so just stick a socket extension between them. It's not as solid, but if it's the only way to reach...
OR as suggest for the bowl screws:
Take a Philips head bit from a screw gun or cordless screwdriver (they are all metal) and put it in the screw head. Then, with a SMALL hammer CAREFULLY and GENTLY give it a few raps (it's a little screw). Start slow and get a little more aggressive if it doesn't work the first time. Since the threads of the bowl are aluminium the impact will create a tiny clearance where there was none before. A couple of stern whacks, and the screw should come out with a screwdriver as if it were finger tight. Don't worry about stripping the threads doing this.
You are not deforming much metal, just loosening up the contact. The next time you tighten it should be fine. This works amazingly well for those old Philips head case cover screws that they used to put on bikes in the 70's and early 80's. Leave the impact driver in the toolbox, they'll just strip the heads. Instead just give 'em a good whack!

[Blaine S. Gardner/Michael O'Connell]

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{3.3} What jet kit should I buy, "K&N Dynajet" or "Factory jet kit"?

Yes!! Buy the K&N DynoJet kit. It includes new jets, slide springs, and needles while the Factory kit only has jets. I have used both and the Dyno's instructions and parts seem to be of a much higher quality. Don't forget the 4 filters! The stock airbox sucks! Really!

[Brian C. Peterson]

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{3.4} What are the Factory jet kit settings?

The Jet kit is a Factory Supersport PN CRB-Y08-1.0 config. 10.
I did not use the supplied pilot jet, but kept the stock one in. J.W. Racepart (201) 773-2484 says the Factory pilot jet will drop the road gas mileage significantly with little power benefit. The needle is a Factory #1170i-90q70rt and the clip was placed 4 grooves down from the top. Five grooves is richest. This clip position may or may not translate to a stock needle position as variations in needle shape dramatically affect the fuel flow for a given needle elevation (clip position).
The main jet is a 117.5 Yamaha OEM jet, stock is 112.5. The fuel screws (next to the carb slide covers on the top of the carbs) were set to 3 turns out. Other than that they supplied some nice Allen screws to replace the slide cover screws. So, I would recommend that the cheapskates out there (with slip-ons or aftermarket exhaust) consider trying a set of OEM 117.5 jets, lowering the needle a clip or two, and adjusting your air screw 3 turns out. The only difference between this and my set-up is the Factory needle.

[Brian Heaven]

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{3.5} How many hp would I gain with a V&H SS2R ?

!I've had several discussions with my tuner and he has had poor performance with the four SS2-R pipes he has installed. Even with a thorough re-jet, the performance numbers only went up 2-7 HP. The Yosh pipes only sound overly loud when wound all the way up. I don't want just a nice looking pipe, I want a rocket in my pocket!

[Tim Buhler]

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{3.6} What gas mileage should I be getting?

It is different from time to time depending if the bike is stock, where you drive, how you drive etc. But on a stock FJ you should be able to get around 38-45 mpg(US gal). If you use an 18th front sprocket you might be able to lower it more... The figures above is probably with the stock uncalibrated speedometer with the usually 10% error. So if you think you just went 220 miles on a tank of fuel, you really went about 200 miles...

I recently took a fairly long trip (my definition) on my FJ. It is a '91 with a 17" rear wheel, so turns slightly higher rpm than stock for a given road speed. I travelled from Geelong VIC (SW of Melbourne) to Nimbin NSW (near the QLD border) most all of it was secondary roads and my speed ranged from 110 - 140 km/h except through towns. Bulk of my speed was 120km/h (75).

 Numbers as recorded | <--- Calculated number conversions ----> |
Trip up           Litres             Km/L             Miles              Gal-US          Gal-UK         MPG-US       MPG-UK
1707 km        98.33             17.36             1060.7           25.96             21.6               40.86             49.11

Trip back
1959 km        112.57           17.40             1217.3           29.72             24.8               40.96             49.08

Total
3666 km        210.9             17.38             2278              55.68             46.4               40.91             49.09

My bike engine is stock except for a UniFilter insert in the airbox. Exhaust is stock with slip-on mufflers. I use dino oil, DID XVM chain, and my screen is slightly higher than stock (about 3"). For this trip, I had a Gearsack (big seatbag) and a Bagster tank bag on, with no panniers. Tires are Dunlop K591 SP front, Pirelli MTR04 rear. @ 36 & 42 lbs. I keep it tuned, but nothing special.

[Charles J. Scappaticci/Darin C. Ginther/Arnie Robbins]

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{3.7} Auxiliary gas tank?

The tank is a 5 plus gallon Triangle Engineering aluminium tank installed in the GIVI bag. It is gravity feed with an on/off solenoid and a panel switch. Works great. See WEB page: http://www.abt-compost.com/ldr.html

[John Laurenson]

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{3.8} How do the tuneable exhaust systems work (Supertrapp)?

Picture each disk as having little spacers between them, so that when they are "stacked" there is airspace between the faces of each disk. The Exhaust goes out the pipe through those spaces. The end of the exhaust pipe is actually solid (the cap that holds all of  'em on). So, more disks = more ventilation = more noise and (theoretically) more power.

[Charles Robinson]

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{3.9} Weights saving from stock pipes?

Stock 87 FJ12 mufflers: about 11 pounds each Supertrapp slip-ons: about 5 pounds each Cobra F1R slip-ons: about 2.5 pounds each I weighed the mufflers on my bathroom scale so the numbers may have a big error in them. I don't know about power, but the weight savings made the bike a lot easier to put up on the centerstand. Also a lot easier to work on the chain and tires.

[Howard Hughes]

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{3.10}What jet kit do I need to keep the stock smoothness?

Question:
What combination of parts, or more precisely, what jet kit do I need to keep the stock smoothness (most important) and the extra power (not as important). I definitely don't want less power than stock anywhere in the powerband. The same amount would be okay, too, but I want my smoothness back. Would the jet kit be a standard item?

Answer:
It sounds like your problems lie in the lower RPM range, which means that your main jets are probably okay (CV carbs being RPM sensitive, as they are). So...

In that you've only changed your air filter, and everything else is stock, I think I would be inclined to back out your pilot screws 1/4 to 1/2 turn each to start, as the pilot circuit dominates the 0-1/8 throttle domain, including cruise conditions.

If you find that you can't get to where you need to be with just a small adjustment on your pilot screws (less than 1 full turn each), I'd shim the needles with thin brass or steel washers, up to about .030", between the e-clip and the plastic spacer.

If this doesn't work, it's time to increase the size of your pilot jets, which are available from Sudco or other Mikuni parts suppliers. BTW, the jets are of the BS30/96 variety, and not the usual VM22/210s, as found in round-slide Mikuni carbs.

In that Vance & Hines recommends (off-the-record) using #40 pilots, #125 mains and stock needles shimmed .030" for their SS2R pipes and individual filters (in other words, they don't recommend a jet kit!), I think you can get away with just optimizing your pilot circuit, and making sure your carbs are synched.

[Tim Chin]

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{3.11} Best jet/needle for FJ 1200 with SS2R pipe + individual K&N?

When I spoke with V&H about jetting for their SS2R pipe and K&N individual filters,
they gave me the following numbers:
#40 pilot jets (BS30-96)
#125 main jets (N100-604)
Stock float height
Stock needles shimmed .02" to .03"

I have the stock airbox with a Yoshimura exhaust system and I run:
#42.5 pilot jets
#117.5 main jets
Stock needle shimmed .035"

[Tim Chin]

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{3.12} Which size of pilot jets makes the engine run cooler?

This is based on my experience with my '86 FJ and SS2R:

If you have the stock exhaust & airbox, then the 37.5 (3-4 turns out) or 40 (2 turns out) will probably work best. If you have an aftermarket exhaust w/ stock airbox then the 40 (4 turns out) or 42.5 (2-3 turns out) are about
right. With aftermarket exhaust and individual air filters, the 42.5 (3-4 turns out) is needed.
"Turns out" refers to the pilot screw settings. You will have to tweak the pilot screw settings a little, but this should get you into the ballpark.

[Dave Kingsland]
 
 

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{3.13} What is a Supertrapp exhaust?

A 4-into-1 jobie that just bolts right on. A little trimming is required on the lower cowling (air scoop) at least on the `89 model. They retail for something like 400 (in `92) and I've seen them in Dennis Kirk catalogues. Its a bit louder than stock but makes it sound like a real bike, it is somewhat noticeable at speed. Its made of stainless steel and comes in a silver colour but over time turns a beautiful gold colour from the heat. One of the great things about this pipe is that it allows oil drain plug access.

Most other pipes have to be removed to change oil! With this pipe you can get to the plug OK but the oil runs all over the pipes. To fix this problem simply wrap the pipes near the drain plug with aluminium foil, the foil gets covered with oil but then the foil just gets pulled off when you're done. This pipe also allows the centerstand to remain on the bike.

[Mark Wallace]

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{3.14} Running out of gas or do I have a tank venting problem?  a.k.a. It just dies on me!

Long question, or symptom:
My 1986 FJ1200 quit four times in a 100 km ride yesterday. I think its vapour locking at higher ambients (say 25 degree Celsius) with low fuel tank level (near to being onto reserve). The carbs have been on/off four times in as many years and in the latest fix(?) an external 'in line' fuel filter was installed above the carbs and below the tank. I think this just creates more flow restrictions and another hot spot to vaporize fuel and cause vapour locks. When it quits it just dies at 4000-4500 RPM. I coast to a stop, let it rest (cool) for 3-5 minutes and then with great difficulty it will restart with choke on (despite the heat) and no throttle. Once it catches, its throttle up and ease off the choke and lock it to fast idle and then ride off. 10-15 km’s later repeat the whole process until you reach filling station.

Check: (Rich Baker’s quick test)

Next time it happens, open the gas cap. Close the gas cap again and try to start. If it starts up immediately, read on below;

Answer:
Sounds like the dreaded tank venting problem. The "hiss" is air being sucked in due to a partial vacuum in the tank. Yamaha screwed up the tank venting so rather than redesign the tank cap they added a fuel pump and some really bizarre crap (black box & level sensor that actually turns off the fuel pump so it acts like a reserve tank).

There is a "valve" assembly in the tank cap that is supposed to keep the tank from over or under pressurizing. Basically this does not work. Problems you get are fuel starvation due to tank vacuum and strange noises (sounds kinds like "meowing", especially if you take your bike out of a cool garage, shake up the fuel and then park it in the sun) as it vents due to pressurization. Easiest fix is to rip the damn valve out of the cap.

This fixed my problem (fuel starvation) and I have had no problems with water getting in, and the bike has sat through a couple of serious rainstorms in the parking lot. Anyway on a 93 you have to:

- remove the two Philips screws on the "latching" mechanism cover
- slide off the cover (there is a loose sprring under here, that provides the return action for the latch)
- remove the pressure plate
- remove the curved metal plate with the gaasket (4 loose springs under here)
- remove the Philips screw at the back (by the hinge)
- remove the base metal plate (one sorta𕢙 loose spring here for the key door - when reassembling note that the base plate has a little alignment notch for this spring)

At this point the little plastic holder for the two orange/red rubber "valves" will either be staring at you or it will be stuck to the back of the metal plate. Note that the holder is not reversible due to the design of the gasket they sit against. The blow valve has three or four little "legs" that contact against the gasket. Much easier to do than to describe.

One valve is for suck and one for blow. I removed only the suck one since it doesn’t seem to have a problem with the tank over
pressurizing. I would also suggest removing the whole assembly from the tank to do this so you don't have to fish a spring or screw out of the tank or try and find a itty bitty spring that you fired into a deep dark recess of your garage. To remove the gas cap assembly you need to remove 4 Allen head bolts (the top one and the two closest to the hinge, and the one down under the cap in the back right hand corner). The other Allen bolts are just cosmetic.

Even with not paying attention and trying to reassemble it with the pressure plate under the curved plate with the gasket and hence going through two removal/reinstall cycles it only took about 20 minutes. All this applies to a 93. My manual claims the tank design is the same from 89 on (for the 49 state models) but does not give any description or exploded diagram of the actual gas cap assembly.

[Brad Warkentin]

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{3.15}  How should I set the Pilot screws on the carbs?

Start with the screws 2 and 1/2 turns out from the lightly seated position. This will get you close.

The idle mixture screws will not have that much affect on the idle speed.
They are more of an idle quality and initial throttle response adjustment.
They definitely won't raise the idle speed significantly.

If you're too far in either direction with the mixture screws, it will usually decrease the idle speed and make the engine die out easily.

Make sure all the choke plungers are seated and sealing.

If you removed the choke rod and the small plunger clips on this rod, you may have swapped the clips on the #1 and #4 carbs. These 2 clips are slightly different.
If you swap them, one of the plungers will not seat all the way and the result will be a high idle speed that the idle speed adjuster will not compensate for.

Another possibility is the carb sync is all messed up.
Hopefully you synced the carbs when you finished, it not you need to!

[David Raforth]

 

I set my mixture screw like David does "the throttle blip method".
Blip the throttle and if the revs seem to hang for a second then slowly drop turn the mixture screw in (leaner).

If the revs drop quickly and fall below normal then come back up you need to richen (turn the screw out).
Reset idle as necessary using idle adjustment screw - re-sync and enjoy.

[Frank Moore]

 

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{5.1} Fork seal gap up or down? (Wrong in Clymer handbook!!)

I'm in the process of putting the new seals in and have run into a point of confusion. The seal that was in the shock was oriented so the open side of the seal was facing down. The mechanic at the Yamaha shop said that was the correct orientation for the seal. But, the service manual I have (Clymer) says the seal should go in with the gap facing up. The manual is _WRONG_ !!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Very, very, WRONG! I know for _sure_ since I spend many hours convincing them to go in that way, only to have them leak right away. The stupid picture shows them in upside down. (An added bonus of the correct orientation is that they go in much easier).

[Brad Warkentin]

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{5.2} How to disconnect the anti-dive mechanism?

1. Drain all brake fluid (I usually use the bleeder valve and then have a rag handy to wipe excess off)
2. From the Junction between the forks, the line goes into the caliper (with a double banjo bolt) and then jumps over to the anti-dive (with a single banjo bolt). Unbolt both of the bolts on the caliper.
3. Remove the line jumping to the anti dive and fasten the brake line with the single banjo bolt which was on the anti-dive mounting.
4. Either use a 10mm 1.25 pitch bolt to plug the opening on the anti-dive, or (as I did) get a good rubber plug from a hardware store and thread it into the opening. don't forget to remove the brake fluid from the anti-dive.
5. Repeat for the other caliper.

[Ahmet]

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{5.3} Sprocket combinations and speed?

Patrik, here in the USA, the FJ countershaft sprockets are available in 16, 17, and 18 tooth. There may be other sizes available also, I don't know.

I did some comparisons of different combinations. I used a 76 inch rear tire circumference, 5th gear, 4000 RPM:

15/40 = 55.31 miles per hour
15/41  53.96
15/42  52.67

16/40  58.99
16/41  57.56
16/42  56.18

17/40  62.68
17/41  61.15
17/42  59.70

18/40  66.37
18/41  64.75
18/42  63.21

I hope this helps you see the relationship between sprocket combinations and speed.

[Lee Carkenord]

Also see my two gearing tables for “Rpm vs. Speed gearing tables for the FJ” at http://kickme.to/fj1200, under the “modifications” menu

[Chris Vollmer]

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{5.4} How to prevent damage to the fork tubes?

I examined the fork tubes closely for damage, and could see some slight imperfections, tiny scratches, and a couple small chips, probably due to the gravel which is spread on the roads for better traction on snow.  I HIGHLY recommend using something to help prevent damage to the fork tubes.  Whether it is a hard plastic deflector similar to one used on Honda's ST1100 (I think), or a bellows rubber like off road bikes, or as I purchased, some neoprene fork gaitors.

I'm using the Triumph fork tube guards (#A9641010, - they're the stock Thunderbird units anyway).
They are slightly taller than the ST1100 guards and they're pretty cheap (~$12).

They fit my 91 just fine. They do need to be *slightly* rotated to clear, but they still cover
all the shit coming at you from the front.

[John Holecek/Tim Chin/Arnie Robbins]

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{5.5} Lower dust/oil seal for steering head?

Question:
Does anyone have a source for just the lower dust/oil seal for the steering head? Yamaha sells it as part of the bearing kit, and does not list it separately.

Answer:
As I discovered yesterday, the lower dust seal for the FJ is the same as that used on a '79 Honda GL1000, and Honda lists it separately from the bearing assembly. The Honda part number is:        53214-371-010
and the list price is $6.53. Also, CST Bearing in Santa Ana, CA lists the 32005 upper bearing assy and 32006 lower bearing assy for ~$11.50 each, meaning that a cheap SOB like myself can replace the steering head bearings on an FJ for around $30. That's about 1/3 the price and 100% of the quality of the OEM parts (The prices are from 1998).

[Tim Chin]

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{5.6}  Steering head bearing replacement guide.

Below is a step by step procedure to replace the steering head bearings.  All non-gear heads and mature gear heads delete now.  The rest is for the back yard mechanic that wants more information than the Yamaha shop manual offers.  Many thanks to TIM CHIN for publishing the part numbers herein. They were exactly right.  Part way thru the proceedings I felt that a guy like me should have just paid my friendly, competent dealer to do it for me. It's raining as I type this so I haven't yet test ridden it but it seems to be A-OK in the garage. Prices are from 1998.
 

1.      Remove gas tank

2.      Remove front fender and wheel.

3.      Remove fork tubes.

4.      Remove clip-on handlebars after taking clutch and brake lever/master cylinders off same.

5.      Remove horn and front brake hose connections from lower triple clamp.

6.      Remove steering head acorn nut.

7.      Remove top triple clamp.  (The handlebar wires and ignition wires need not be removed because these parts can be laid on rags on fairing.

8.      Remove all the locknuts, nuts and washers from steering head shaft.

9.      Remove shaft and lower triple clamp.

10.    Remove the upper tapered roller bearing which will lie in its race.

11.    Remove the upper race; it's smaller than the lower.  This was difficult because it is a very tight fit in the frame and it is pushed down into the frame against a cast in ring which keeps it from being pushed too far down when the bearings are tightened.  Hence, you can't get a drift against the race from below without damaging the ring (or sleeve).
A cutoff wheel on the Dremel Mototool will cut thru the race but be careful not to damage the frame.

12.    Remove the lower race as per the above.  Being bigger in diameter than the top one, it fits up tight to where the steering head tube steps up in diameter.  It is impossible to get a drift on it so it has to be cut out.  When I cut thru it, it gave off a snap sound when the pressure fit against the frame was released when the race shrunk in circumference by the width of the saw kerf.

13.    Remove the lower tapered roller bearing and its dust cover from the foot of the steering head shaft.  I managed to destroy the dust cover by prying on the bearing, not to mention trashing the bearing.

14.    Tap in new races with a hammer and a block of wood.  Be sure they are going in square.  They needn't be forced.  I used the old race to tap in the new one on the bottom since it seats above the bottom of the frame opening.

15.    Part #s: in order to get the right bearing numbers for future reference.
Those numbers are:   32006JR    &   32005X
The Dust cover is the same as a Honda GL 1000 '79 part # 53214-371-010.
Detroit Ball Bearing company didn't have a dust cover so I ordered the above part number from the Honda shop sight unseen. 

         Two days later I got the proper part for $6.92.  

         The number printed on the dust cover is 3200 STORS (the letters are scratched and may be wrong.)
16.    Grease the bearings and reinstall.  The lower bearing is almost a press fit on the steering stem. 

         I tried tapping it in place with a plastic sleeve of the proper size but it wouldn't get more than ¼ of the way on.

         I then installed the stem in the frame with the lower bearing partly in place, installed the top bearing and tightened the ring nut slowly. 

         It didn't take much torque at all and the bottom bearing was pushed down into place very easily. 

         It was all the way on when I couldn't easily turn the nut further with my spanner wrench. 

         I disassembled it to be sure the bearings and races were OK and added a dollop more grease for good measure.

17.    Tighten the lower ring nut to 36 ft. lbs., back it off and re-tighten it to 2 ft. lbs.

18.    Install the rubber spacer and then the top ring nut and lock washer as well as the other stuff.  Torque the steering stem nut to 80 ft. lbs.

19.    Reinstall the fork tubes and front wheel plus fender.  Check to be sure the head turns properly and there is not any fore-aft play at the ends of the forks. 

         Replace the horn and brake Y joint.  Use Loc-Tite on the bolts that may vibrate loose.
20.    Install and torque the clip on bars.
21.    Replace gas tank and whatever else is still laying around.

[Rob Alkema, (Bugslayer)]

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{5.7}  Replacing FJ fork seal and upper bushing trick.

During the process of adding the new RaceTech emulator cartridges into my forks, I accidentally damaged a fork seal trying to reinstall it without the proper tool. A seal installing tool costs about $70.00 and I didn¹t have one handy.  In trying to find something else to evenly force a new seal and new upper bushing into the fork, I discovered that a couple of
foot piece of 1 1/2 inch PVC schedule 40 pipe is perfect. It slips over the fork tube like it was made for the job and allows you to drive the bushing and seal into the tube with a soft mallet easily with no damage.

[John Laurenson]

 

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{5.8}  What are Works performance springs?

These are replacement fork springs. They replace the stock springs and whereas the stock set up is a single spring, these are a dual spring with a cross-over spacer. The new assembly is about 1 inch shorter than the stock spring when laid side by side but the bike sits a little taller, maybe 1/2 an inch. To install these first the longer spring is inserted into the fork, then a washer, then a short (about 5 inches) spring, finally the cross-over spacer is slide down into the light spring and sits on the washer. There is a choice of three spacers of various lengths, the shorter the spacer the softer the ride. The suspension is a little stiffer than stock but can be adjusted significantly by varying oil level and weight, pre-load, and dampening.

[Mark Wallace]

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{5.9}  What bearings are used in the rear suspension linkage?

You will spend a couple hundred dollars to buy them all from Yamaha, bearings and collars. This may help and save you a bunch if you can get a good Bearing Supply house to get them for you. At least the bearings... new collars have to come from Yamaha. i could have probably gotten away with only replacing the obviously damaged ones. The problem is that the smallest amount of play can cause a lot of slop and movement in the swing arms. I felt since one was damaged beyond repair the others were probably damaged from all the movement it allowed in the swing arm. I took the bearing numbers off the bearings I installed. They may be custom numbers but it may be worth a try. Swing Arm (2) TA2530Z (Shock Bracket) Shock (1) BKM2035JUU Linkage (2) BHK1730JU Frame (2) 1BBTM2412 You have to drive them out. I pulled a couple out with a bearing puller but it would only work on but a few. They normally break up or are damaged when you remove them. I didn't have a press to install them, so I used a threaded rod with two large heavy washers and nuts to push them into the swing arm and shock bracket. I put the bearings into the freezer first and warmed up the mating piece with a heat gun. On the smallest ones my bench vise worked out well to squeeze them in. They can't be hammered and driven in because they are easily damaged and they might cock and collapse. Good Luck hawke

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{5.10}  Can I replace the front forks?

Earlier FZR1000 front ends are a good transplant if you can find them. You also get larger brake rotors and a wheel that's 1/2" wider at the same time.

I used the FZR1000 triple clamp for proper wheel spacing with the FZR wheel.

Then I used the FZR upper tube and internals (with RaceTech springs and valves) and used the stock FJ sliders so I could use the FJ fender.
I'm pretty happy with it. If you don't wanna do all that, just go to www.racetech.com and get a set of RaceTech Gold Valve emulators and 1.0Kg straight rate springs.

Use 10w or 15w oil in the forks.
A lot of guys like the progressive rate springs but as a racer, I prefer a constant rate spring. The progressives were too soft in the first part of the travel and reached their "second stage" too quickly. The straight rate springs give you a constant spring rate all the way through the suspension travel.

[Brett]

 

The YZF 600r forks wheels and brakes work very well on our FJ's. I have done maybe 5 or so sets of parts to get this done.

Brett has most of the details right, except that the FJ caliper should not be used with the much thinner YZF disc and the sprocket side axel spacer must be thinned 8mm too.
The trick part that is needed to mount the YZF forks is a 87-88 FZR1000 triple clamp.

It has the same offset as the stock FJ parts and it has the same fork tube C/L as the stock YZF parts.

This lets you not screwup the stock geometry of the FJ and at the same time use all of the YZF support parts (fender wheel brakes axel speedo-drive etc.)
You will need to modify the FZR upper t/clamp to fit the FJ ignition lock, and make a pair of adapters and spacers to use the FJ bars.
The YZF600 forks will need to be revalved and resprung to work best on the FJ, but Race-Tech sells everything needed to set them up.
Go to the fjmods site and have a look, Barry has a photo of my 89 FJ with all of this work done. It looks very stock.

[Jon Cain]

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{5.11} David R’s Inexpensive FJ Fork Seal Driver and Fork Cap Removal Tool

David’s Inexpensive FJ Fork Seal Driver

Materials:

· 1 ¼ inch PVC Coupler (Note: NOT PIPE! This is what is used to join two pieces of 1¼ inch PVC pipe)

· 2x4 approx. 4 inches long

· 2 inch Schedule 40 PVC Pipe approx. 2 feet long

· 2 inch PVC End Cap

Instructions:

- There is a lip on the inside of the coupler, grind this lip flush with the inside diameter.

     This ID slides perfectly over the OD of the fork tube and fits nicely on the fork seal.

- Bore a 41mm hole in the center of the 2x4. (Drill it first with a 1.5 inch hole saw, then use a drum sander to enlarge the hole until it just fits over the fork tube).

- To drive the fork seal in, slide the bushing, washer and seal onto the fork tube (which is already installed in the fork slider). Next slide the coupler on the fork tube, then the 2x4, then the 2 inch pipe with end cap. Take a hammer and beat on the end cap until the bushing and seal are seated.

 

Special Bonus – Fork Cap Removal Tool

Another special tool can be made for removing the early model fork caps.

You need an 18mm (thread size) bolt about 3 inches long. (This may be hard to find at your average hardware store, and may need to be special ordered.

You could grind down an SAE bolt head.). Next get a deep well, 5/8 inch, 12-point socket.

Take a hammer and beat the socket onto the threaded end on of the bolt.

Now you have a fork cap remover that you can use with your ratchet.

With an extension, this tool also fits the top of the damper rod down in the fork tube

 

[David Raforth]

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{5.12} How do I do a Thundercat front end conversion?

You will need a complete Cat front end plus a complete 87-88 FZR 1000 triple clamp, upper and lower.

The FZR triple clamp has the same offset as the stock FJ t/clamp and it has the same tube C/L to C/L as the YZF 600.

This allows you to keep the stock FJ steering geometry while using all of the YZF support parts (fender, brakes, axel, etc.).

The upper FZR triple clamp will need to be modified so that the FJ ignition lock will fit.

You will also need one of my bar mount adapter kits ( you pay the shipping and its free). Other than that, its a bolt on deal.
I installed the full Race-Tech upgrade to the YZF forks I have on my 89FJ, springs (1.0kgmm), compression & rebound gold valves, rebound rod bushings, bushings, seals, wipers, and fluid. Its a lot of cost but it does work well.
If you want a look at my FJ I have a photo of it in my yahoo profile.
 
[Jon Cain]

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{6.1} What replacement rotors/disc can I buy?

The following brake discs from other Yamaha motorcycles are the same size as the FJ1200’s from 1990 (rear is the same for all FJ’s)

Front ( 298x64mm )	Rear ( 282x132mm )
FJ1200 from 1990 TDM from 1991 TRX from 1995 FZ 750 Genesis 1989 until 1992 FZS Fazer 600 from 1998 FZR 600 1989 from 1995 XJR-R 400	FJ1100/1200 V Max 1986 until 1994 XVZ 12 Venture Royal XVZ 13 Venture Royal GTS 1000

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Courtesy of  Markus and Frank at     http://members.fortunecity.de/fj1200/index1.htm

[Chris Vollmer]

Dennis Kirk catalogue: BRAKING - stainless steel cross drilled rotors made from high carbon content stainless steel, better than cast iron etc. FJ1100 84 - 170.99,  FJ1200 88+ - 188.99 (Is this price or part number? /Patrik Sjoblom)

Yamaha v-max rotors look exactly like FJ11/12 rotors but cost anywhere from $179 to $220 each, while FJ11/12 rotors are about $300 each. These are prices from CA, Competition Accessories a couple of years ago. It's the solid vented rotors.  I haven't tried it, but the newer drilled rotors from 1993+ VMAXes look like they'll fit on 1988+ FJ’s.  I didn't ask about prices for the newer rotors. BTW.  Several times now, when I ordered parts from CA, the operator said that a part for my 87FJ was no longer available and they would ship me the equivalent.  The operator said Yamaha gave them (CA) a cross-reference and CA ships from the list.

I wonder if they are doing the same with brake rotors (" ...aaahh ship 'im a VMAX rotor, it's the same part ...")

[Darin C. Ginther / hephaisto]

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{6.2} Can I use six pot calipers (YZF750) on my FJ?

I fitted them to my 1990 FJ (3CV). They bolt directly on, took me 40 mins, including the bleeding.

[Barry Edwards]

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{6.3} Are EBC sintered metallic pads any good?

I got tons of miles out of a set of EBC sintered metallic pads on my FJ but found a year or so ago that the disks had worn well below the minimum recommended thickness while the pads still had life left on them. I got maybe 70 K miles out of the pads but only about 80 K miles out of the disks. I thereafter figured I'd use the faster wearing organic pads on my new Braking USA rotors. The Braking organic pads wore fast and did some damage to the rotors so I switched to Vesra organics. Not enough miles to know how they're doing yet. Nothing lasts forever.

[Rob Alkema, (Bugslayer)]

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{6.4} Brakes pads numbers for EBC & Ferrodo?

Here are some brake numbers to start:
 

FJ1100 L/LC/N/NC 84-85	Front	Rear
EBC	FA88 (2)	FA88
Ferrodo	FDB337 (2)	FDB337
FJ1200 S/SC/T/TC 86-87
EBC	FA88 (2)	FA88
Ferrodo	FDB337 (2)	FDB337
FJ1200 1988
Ferrodo	FDB662 (2)	FDB337
FJ1200 W/WC 89-90
EBC	FA123 (2)	FA88
Ferrodo	FDB449 (2)	FDB337
FJ1200 A/B/AD/ADC/AE/AEC/D/DC 91-94
EBC	FA123 (2)	FA88
Ferrodo	FDB662 (2)	FDB337

[Kevin (KevLor)]

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{6.5} Can I put on fully floating disc on my FJ (ISR)?

Yes, you can. The price in Sweden (where they are made) for ISR’s is 4.200 SEK (2 discs) including the "disc holder".

Just the discs ~1.000 SEK/each, you need the holder first time...! Price in Norway 4.000 NOK.

BTW ISR 6-pot caliper cost 7.800 NOK (each??) ISR is located in SWEDEN/Stockholm/Tullinge. (The prices are from 1997)

[Patrik Sjoblom/Lidvar Budal]

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{6.6}Which tire pressure should I use?

My "target" hot pressure is 10% greater than cold pressure.
That is.....if cold tire measures 35 PSI.... I want the hot pressure to be 38.5 PSI.

[Lee Carkenord]

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{6.7}  What steel braided lines should I buy?

According to the manual you should renew the hoses/lines every 4 year (yes, 4 years).  And if you still have the original on(ushh) you get more feeling and break power/performance.  Well worth the money.

There are two different solutions you can choose between(front brakes). Both system can be used with/without anti-dive.
A) 1 line to the bottom triple clamp, then a T piece and two lines to the calipers.
B) 2 lines from the handlebars to the wheel.  Advantages: saves 1 line and 2 end fittings(cheaper) + might be a little easier to bleed, since air bubbles can't get trapped in the junction.  Disadvantages:  more total line and fluid in this system + more line to flex.

The lines can have black covered kevlar hoses or clear vinyl....
Or spiral plastic line gourds put on afterwards, why not red coloured?

[Patrik Sjoblom/Andy C. Pugh/Dave Kingsland]

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{6.8}  What companies sells steel braided lines (USA)?

In the Summit catalogue that I have (Jan/Feb 97), the Aeroquip TFE stuff listed on p.26 includes -3 AN hose to banjo fittings in both straight and 17 degree bend (AER-FCM3091 & AER-FCM3092) for $10.99 and $11.69 each, and 37 degree flare to 3/8 (10mm) banjo adapters (AER-FCM2949) for $19.99 each.
 The -3 stainless hose is listed for $15.99 for 36" and $31.99 for 72". All of these fittings have compression ends, so they are reusable. To build up a basic set of hose assy’s from Summit would cost $85.93 (four straight banjo fittings, 72" of hose, and two packets of aluminium crush washers, part number AER-FCM3642 -3 AN @ $4.99 each).

The catalogue I'd referred to earlier was Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies, New Berlin, WI (800.688.6946 24 hours daily).
They list hose assemblies with swaged fittings in -3 AN uncoated stainless steel with a straight swivel fitting on one end and a 3/8 (10mm) banjo fitting on the other (32" assy is 3-32-S-B @ $21.49 and 36" assy is 3-36-S-B @ $21.99). To use these hoses, one would need a 3AN to 10mm long-stem banjo adapter (3265-24 @ $11.99) on the swivel-end side.
While this may seem like a klooge, it's actually not, as the flare fittings can be disassembled and reassembled without destroying any crush washers, so operations like removing the calipers are facilitated if the adapters are bolted to the calipers and the hoses are screwed onto the adapters. I guess this is the long way of saying that double banjo assemblies are not available. The bottom line for Pegasus is $72.29 for two hose assys ($21.49 & $21.99), two banjo adapters, and seven copper crush gaskets (3241-3/8 @ $.69).

Of course, these systems are two-hose systems that bypass the splitter that's mounted to the forks, as well as the anti-dive system. BTW, the anti-dive system can be disabled with 10mm bolts and copper washers, the short banjo bolts can be moved to the remaining hoses, and one of the long banjo bolts can be used to attach the hoses to the master cylinder.
Also, heat-shrink tubing can be used to cover the stainless lines to prevent scuffing.

As a comparison, an equivalent two-line Goodridge system from Dennis Kirk would run $86.94 (not including gaskets), and a three-line Lockhart system from Chaparral would be $77.99.          Whew!

[Tim Chin]

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{6.9}  Genesis rear wheel on FJ + better tire.

The Genesis rear wheel is going to be better than the stock wheel no matter which is fitted with radials or bias-plys because it fits wider, low profile tires with much shorter sidewalls.

[Dave Kingsland]

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{6.10} Are crossplys as good on the standard bike as radials?

The real deal is that the tire size, shape, and tread compound make more difference than the angle of the plies.  I remember reading a sport/race tire compare in Motorcyclist about 5 years ago when the Dunlop Sportmax radial was the new, hot tire that everybody wanted.  The bias ply Metzeler ME-1s were the only bias tires in the test and they won the competition.  The tires were shod on a GSXR-750 or ZX-7 that was fitted with radials from the factory.

[Dave Kingsland]

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{6.11} Mileage differences between mc radials/bias plys?

Theoretically, a radial tire may run cooler than a bias ply tire.  That means it will last longer.  Alternately, a softer tread compound could be used to get better traction with the same life.  My experience with bias ply tires on the FJ is limited to the Metzeler ME33, ME99 and ME55.
 The Michelin A89X/M89X seemed to have almost as good traction as the ME33/ME55 but lasts longer.  My current tires, the MEZ2s, look like they will last about as long as the ME33/ME55 but have better traction.  When it comes to touring tires like the ML2, I don't think it matters much whether the construction is radial or not.  Their tread is so thick that they generate a lot of heat regardless.

The Avon ST23 rear (radial), I have just took off covered 11,000miles, with I suppose about 1500- 2000 miles left on it (taking it down to the UK legal limit of 1mm of tread). I found it to be a good all-round tyre which wore
evenly, with little or no feathering.  The AV27 front is also a good all-rounder, which again wears very evenly and is still fitted to the bike. Currently there's about 9,000miles on this and should be good for 12k.

[Dave Kingsland/Barry Edwards]

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{6.12} Recommendation on a pressure brake bleeder?

I use a MityVac vacuum brake bleeder to do both my race and street bikes.  Works like a champ and beats the crap out of the whole "pull the lever, crack the bleeder" drill.  Definitely worth the $30 or so for the kit.

[Michael Kasimirsky]

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{6.13} What's an example of aftermarket magnesium wheels with floating disks?

I installed Technomagnesio Wheels and front Brembo disks. These came boxed with an `89 FJ bike I bought from a private party. The private party also happened to be a rep for Technomagnesio. The first thing I did was have the wheels painted silver, they come white from the manufacturer, the front is 3.5x17 and the rear is 5.5x17. Then they went to the machine shop for 4 weeks along with the swing arm and stock wheels. The new front wheel had to have the disk mounting brackets modified because the disks were about 1/8 inch too far apart. These brackets mount to the wheel and the disks mount to them.

The rear wheel was a little more difficult. It turned out the  bearings were the wrong size and the distance between the sprocket and the brake disk was too large. The sprocket was machined a little and three spacers were made, one on either side of the wheel and one between the bearings inside the wheel. I ordered the sprocket from a company called Sprocket Specialists and went from a 40 tooth to a 38, the tire/sprocket combination gave an overall taller gearing of about 3.4 percent. The tire is the brand new Metzler ME-55A Metronic Z-rated radial I used a 170/60-17 which just fit with about an 1/8 inch clearance from the caliper support bar and about a 1/4 inch to the chain. I could go to the 180/55-17 but more mods would be necessary.

Cost(in `92): About 500(US) added to the purchase price of the bike for the wheels, 150 paint, 100 sprocket, 210 machine work, 50 brake pads, 30 alum stock for spacers and 25 for bearings for a total of 1065 plus 150 for the new tire which it needed anyway. These wheels retail for something like 700 apiece and the bike lost about 25 or 30 pounds with their installation.

There are other aftermarket wheels which can be put on the FJ that probably wouldn't require much if any machining of parts. The wheels I put on worked flawlessly for 25,000 miles which was when I sold the bike. I used them for drag racing and pulled a small trailer thousands of miles using them.

[Mark Wallace]

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{6.14} What front/rear wheel bearings should I buy?

You will find the numbers on the bearings. Make sure you get the double sided rubber sealed bearings.  They will have
the suffix "-2RS". Prices are from 1999 (so your not getting ripped off).

Front: 2 x 6302-2RS , 9.50 USD/each
Rear:  2 x 6304-2RS , 12.87 USD/each
Rear: Sprocket carrier 1 x 6305-2RS , 14.50USD/each

[Andy C. Pugh/Gary Foreman]

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{6.15} Can the FJ ABS system be repaired?

Please see the two articles about ABS repair at http://kickme.to/fj1200, under the “Repair & maintenance” menu.

[Chris Vollmer]

Hi listers, I am writing to tell you of a misunderstanding that I was involved in recently involving this list. I saw a posting on this list (copy included below) which describes an offer by Yamaha corporation to fix, at no cost to the owner, the hydraulic unit of the ABS brakes if it has failed. This posting was from "Ahmet" and was titled with a subject line of: "FJ ABS Issues." Due to the subject and text of this posting I took it to mean that Yamaha was offering to fix failed hydraulic units on the FJ1200 ABS! Well, I was quite happy about this news--my ABS hasn't worked for years and I certainly don't have the time or money to fix it, so this was quite a windfall of good fortune into my sorry life. So I called Jordan Cavanaugh at Yamaha to verify the good news before bringing the bike to the dealer. (By the way, calling this guy took over a hundred hits of the re-dial button, over the course of several days, and when I finally got on musical hold, I waited almost an hour to get through.) Mr. Cavanaugh was quite nice and told me that Yamaha did indeed have an offer like this, but it was for GTS1000 owners and definitely NOT for FJ1200ABS owners. I was (am) very disappointed.
So my request to the listers here, and the point of my writing this, is to ask that you please be careful of what subject you put on your postings. Please don't just propagate through the old subject of a thread that was formerly going, while changing the subject of your posting. For example, in this case I think that there was a thread going about the topic of "wouldn't it be nice if Yamaha extended the GTS1000 offer to FJ1200 owners," and that the message I read was actually someone posting info on how to get a GTS1000 fixed (!) but the poster forgot to change the subject from "FJ1200 ABS Issues" to "GTS1000 ABS repair." In the past I have opened up postings entitled something like "FJ1200 Tires" and found a note in which one lister asks another how he likes one of the motorcycles listed in his SIG. So please do be careful about subjects so that fools like me won't suffer so much from being so. Jon. (i.e. Jon M. Lampkin the lurker, not Jon the frequent poster)

++++ HERE IS THE COPY OF THE NOTE ++++++
From: Ahmet
Subject: RE: FJ1200 ABS Issues
Sorry Bob, I thought I had posted this info.
Here is the second mail I got from the guy Ahmet

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
This is the important stuff: "I just had a call from Jordan Cavanaugh at Yamaha. They have obviously been thinking long and hard about this one and they have decided to replace any defective HU free of charge and will reimburse anyone who has replaced one at their own expense if they provide receipts!!! No warranty required, no proof of maintenance.

What you need to do is take the bike into a Yamaha dealer and have them confirm the HU is at fault. Get them to call Jordan Cavanaugh at (714) 761 7435 M-F 8:30 - 5 or 1 800 962 7926 to confirm they are to replace the HU free of charge. Jordan said anyone should feel free to call him and I'd think it might be a good idea if he got a few thank-you calls."

In his later contacts with Yamaha USA, they made it clear that this was going to be a one time deal and didn't amount to a lifetime warranty on the ABS and this applied only to Yamaha USA. If you end up w/ a failure, can't get it covered, and you don't want to fork out the $2000 for a new HU you can reference the following site for comprehensive rebuild procedure with pictures. Although Yamaha claims the unit is not rebuildable, two GTSers have already done it (before Yamaha said they'd pay). They said its not any harder than doing a carb rebuild.

[Fred]

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{6.16} How do I fix a front end wobble?

Check front and rear tire alignment, tire pressure, tire wear, wheel bearings and steering head bearing tightness first.
Check also that the tire is properly balanced. Try adding more rear preload to eliminate the wobble.

Front tire cupping can contribute to this as well as the other things listed above. MEZ2's have been reported to encourage wobbling.

 

Other things to be aware of are; tire out of round, tire mounted non-concentric with rim, fork bushings, steering head bearings worn,
swing arm bearings, bent frame, bent fork tube, bent rim, loose or missing frame and/or motor mount bolts, rear suspension probs.....worn shock, bushings, etc...

 

The FJ is a long bike with very conservative geometry, and a rearward weight bias. Not the best combination for a quick handling bike.

These factors are the main reasons why the FJ has a tendency to "cup" any front tire it wears. The cupping accentuates the front-end shake.

.

[“Snipped” from postings by Jeff Hoffman /Skippy/David L Raforth/Carey Ohl/Lee Carkenord] /Chris V.

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{7.1} How do I fix my damaged ABS plastic (or how to weld plastic)?

I've used ABS solvent in the past and it failed on my old Vetter fairing. I'd suggest Goop glue (sold at hardware stores cheap) and repair it from the backside with metal reinforcement strips such as galvanized steel etc. While looking up motorcycle shops in the Calgary phone book, I found this place: Plastic Weld 403 248-6204 Canada! I haven't checked in with them, but I suspect they repair fairings, etc. They might even recommend a product for home use. I posted a while ago about my front signal lights being cracked (on the inside of the fairing) and what to do about it. At the time of the post I was helping a friend install windows in his house. We had to caulk the windows. This caulk turns into a hard rubbery substance. I put this in the signal lights crack and have had no problems since. Hope this helps...

[Rob Alkema/Steve Thornton/Adam in NY]

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{7.2} Replace the choke knob/screw?

Try the middle part of a key ring(or "modified" paper clip), i.e. the metal circle part between keys and whatever it's called you attach to your trousers.  Mine is enough big to allow for glowed finger to pull out. Also, it kept my broken plastic cover for the reserve tank at place.  Is it difficult to get hold of the knob?  I just ordered a new plastic cover for the reserve tank(where the choke is placed as well) because the snap fits were broken and it was no problem. If you like I can ask around here.  The keeper of spare parts is in the Netherlands according to my dealer.

The choke knob screw from an FZ750 or FZ700 is the same item and is available separately.  The choke knob from the FZ750/700 is almost the same as the FJ item, but it has the hole drilled on the left side. Or go to a sewing machine repair shop, or an electrical supply shop or a hobby shop that sells radio control cars (where I got mine) and get the following:

Allen head (M2.5 X 6mm, long) machine bolt. If they want more than a couple of dollars for a package of 4, then run, don't walk, to a different store.

[Tomas Segerberg/Andy Mansker]

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{7.3} Replacement mirrors?

Please see the two articles about CBR1000 mirror mods at http://kickme.to/fj1200, under the “Modifications” menu

[Chris Vollmer]

From memory, the same mirror was used on the XJ900 L & N models, and the FZ 750 S.

After riding a few miles with my stock mirrors, I decided to purchase the EMBGO CBR 1000 mirrors suggested by Hawke. This is the best mirror setup I have ever seen. The local Honda Dealer quoted original CBR mirrors at $95 ea., but I found the EMGO on their shelf for $40 each.

I put the Ken Sean ones on in '95 and although they still look at some of my shoulders, there are better than stock.

I use bar-end mirrors.  The brand name is Napoleon.  I absolutely love them.  The bike gets a sleeker look, but I can see way more using them. On the down side, you have to move your head (i.e. look away from the road) to glance at them, unless you're going full-blast and lying down on the tank. Also, the mirrors are not meant to fit into a 7/16" opening, which I believe our clip-on’s use.  They work on the premise of tightening an Allen bolt on the end of the mirror, which in turn tightens a locknut inside the bar.  As it tightens, it compresses either a rubber tube, or a metal anchor.  Once compressed, the insert presses firmly against the insides of the clip-on.  I remedied the non-fit aspect by replacing the guts with a piece of fuel-line.  It provides a more snug fit, and then no cutting or hacking is required.  I've had the mirrors on for two seasons now and have had no problems with them.

[Trevor Harris/Andy Mansker/Bill/Jon Jarosz]

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{7.4} What Yamaha colour codes do I have on my FJ?

Links to paint dealers:

http://www.color-rite.com - US

http://www.motorradlack.de/Yamaha/mehr4.html - Germany

http://www.motorbikepaint.co.uk/ - UK

http://www.japarts.nl/Ned/Motorverf/Yamaha/Index.htm - The Netherlands

 

[Chris Vollmer]

 

I did a little searching with the parts fiche on CD (from Gary) along with
the Color-Rite web site, here's what I found;

year color name yam. code on part #'s Color Rite #

    COLOR-RITE                              YAMAHA code (top coat) (Added by Chris V.):
1984 Quartz Silver 1U (01U?) 5145L                                                   1698-QS/1U
Stormy Red AJ (0AJ?) 5005U top, 1500U base                                   1711-SMR/AJ

1985 Stormy Red AJ (0AJ?) 5005U top, 1500U base                          1711-SMR/AJ
Silky White GE (0GE) 5035U top, 1100U base                                    1611-SW/GE

1986 Silky White GE (0GE) 5035U top, 1100U base
Stormy Red AJ (0AJ?) 5005U top, 1500U base                                   1711-SMR/AJ

1987 Silky White GE (0GE?) 5035U top, 1100U base                          1611-SW/GE
Passion Red TF (1TF? or possibly 0TF?) ***

1989 Silky White GE (0GE?) 5035U top, 1100U base                          1611-SW/GE
Marble Silver OL (0OL?) 5418U                                                          1805-MAS/OL

(2nd color scheme)
Shiny Black NA (0NA?) 5544UL                                                         1786-SBL/NA

1990 Shiny Black NA (0NA?) 5544UL                                                1786-SBL/NA
Bluish Black Metallic MW (0MW?) 5600UL                                       

(2nd color scheme)
Silky White GE (0GE?) 5035U top, 1100U base                                   1611-SW/GE
Light Grayish Blue Met. PO (0PO?) ***

1991 Silky White GE (0GE?) 5035U top, 1100U base                          1611-SW/GE
Dull Purplish Blue Met. P1 (0P1 ???) ***
"slight" possibilities, color codes are different;
Deep Purplish Blue Met. 189/AEC 5422U
Dark Purplish Blue Met. 564 5815U

1992/ Marble Silver OL (0OL) 5418U                                                  1805-MAS/OL
1993 Dark Violet Cocktail 1 P1 (0P1?) ***

For all years, possibly the frame paint color;  Silver 035 5616U

*** none found for any Yamaha, any year.

So, to answer your question, it looks as if Color Rite has not yet produced a batch of the 1990 Light Grayish Blue Metallic secondary color.

They also seem to have missed the 1987 Passion Red, 1991 Dull Purplish Blue Metallic & 1993-1993 Dark Violet Cocktail 1, although I did see a few "slight" possibilities for the '92-93 color

[George Denison & Chris Vollmer]

The Yamaha codes for my 86 are Stormy Red – PNT-84000-T0-AJ and Silky White – PNT-84000-K0-GE.  I repainted the front fender and tail with Dupli-color's Ford FM 306 Cardinal Red, and the scoops with Ford FM 229 Oxford White.  They're close to the original Yamaha tri-coat paints, and most people wouldn't notice the difference unless you told them. Color-rite sells paint pens in the original Yamaha colours for minor scratches.

When I painted my FJ almost 3 years now(1996), I could not match the white, and ordered the Yamaha Base coat white, and the colour coat, Silky white. It was approx 40ea. per quart.

Part # PNT-84000-K0-05 White Base coat
          PNT-84002-K0-GE Silky White Colour Coat

[Rheltyr/David May]

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{8.1} How can I fix the FJ Fuel Gauge Oscillating?

When you turn the ignition on, does the needle climb slowly to position or does it flick up there very quickly?

The former indicates an electrical fault, the latter a damping one. There are two known problems with the fuel gauge, a random flickering, maybe of the rev-counter too, and in extreme cases a misfire and headlamp flicker is due to bad earth/ground continuity between the engine and the frame. The engine is earthen to the battery negative, the frame is not. As the engine mounts are largely rubber this means that after a while there is no continuity. Run a short length of a thick wire between the battery negative (black) terminal and one of the bolts which hold the fuel tank down. Also check that the bolt which holds the coils on (you need to remove the tank) is tight as this holds on the wiring loom earthing/grounding point.
  If this doesn't solve the problem it could be one of the connector blocks which connect the instruments to the main wiring loom. You might be able to reach them from below or above, or you might have to remove the fairing. If you do remove the fairing, don't forget that you have to remove the fairing air scoops first and undo the speedo cable at the wheel end. Then remove the 2 bolts in the bottom of the fairing under the headlight, the 2 screws in the top inner section, one of which holds the fuse holder cover on, and the two screws which hide behind the bottom black plastic clip-on thing at the rear corners of the fairing at each side. Then unhitch the front lower fairing edges where they fit over little spigots on the front frame rails, tilt the fairing forward slightly and slide it off forwards (this is a good time to be grateful you don't have an FJ1200.
  When there is room disconnect the electrical connections and put the fairing down in the safe place you prepared earlier. Check the wiring connections you have just undone, and any others (there are two ways to separate the fairing from the wiring loom, it depends how your cables are strapped to the subframe which is more convenient.). If they look horrid and green than this may well be your problem.

If the wiring looks OK then it is probably the gauge itself. Remove the headlight from the fairing and unscrew the trip-meter knob from the instruments. Remove the two bolts which hold the instruments in and remove them (tilt the bottom edge (as mounted on the bike) out first then the whole thing should lift out). The fuel gauge is held in by the three screws at the back of the instruments with wires going to them. Remove the screws and wires (there are markings molded into the housing to show which goes where. IIRC B is brown and K is black. Turn the instruments over again and remove the 5 screws holding the perspex cover on, lift this off and lift out the fuel gauge.
  Move the needle around with your finger. is there any resistance to movement? It should feel smooth but fairly stiff, if it moves freely it means that the gauge damping fluid has disappeared (they all do that sir). If you pull the metal can off the back of the gauge you will see a set of windings wrapped round a plastic capsule, which contains the magnet on the needle shaft and the damping fluid. You need to tease apart the windings (there is a gap anyway in the top right hand side). Drill a small hole and inject some 12,500 Centistoke silicone oil (thicker would be fine).
  I used Dimethicone which is used as an eczema treatment and hair conditioner. Seal the hole with a bit of silicone sealant and reassemble. If there is damping in the gauge, then either the fluid level is only low (does it start off OK then flicker after 20 miles or so?) or there is an electrical problem in the gauge or sender unit. You can check the windings for continuity (there is a reference winding which has a constant current through it and a variable winding which has the current varied by the sender unit resistance.)

[Andy C. Pugh]

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{8.3} Battery boil over due to the OEM Rectifier/Regulator? / Build your own voltage regulator?

Does one or both rectifiers and/or regulator need to be replaced? I have read somewhere this is a common occurrence on the FJ's.  If so, can anyone recommend or shed some light on this matter? Dennis Kirk catalogue shows the rectifier and regulator as two separate parts for the FJ. (Rectifier $98 and Regulator for $98). Prices from 1999.

If you need to add water in the battery now and then, your regulator is shot.  This is common.  The failure mode for FJ regulators is to overcharge the battery and eventually boil it dry. The regulators succumb to the engine heat. Yamaha mounted it in the alternator which is directly behind the cylinder block. A new one will cost you ~$200 through Yamaha (in the U.S.)

Or you can build a replacement one much cheaper if you're handy with a soldering iron and a reasonable electronic parts house is nearby. 

I'll even give you the schematic I created when I built my new regulator.

Note; Jeff Earls schematic can be downloaded from my site (Chris Vollmer) at http://kickme.to/fj1200 , as one zipped file (regulat4.zip), click here,

          or download it from Patrik Sjoblom’s page, click here.

 

[Jeff Earls]

How about including a test with some specifications and an alternate source for a voltage regulator other than building the Jeff Earls version or going with OE?

I'm just mentioning this since mine went south and I just did the repair.

 

The Haynes manual specs the charging system voltage to be 14.2-14.8v across the battery poles while applying a no load engine rpm of 5000. If your regulator is shot, you'll generally see a much higher voltage after the bike has been at operating temperature for a period of time or if it has sat in one place, idling, long enough to heat up the alternator.

Stock voltage regulator prices have been said to be ~$190US but I haven't checked them. A company called Electrex USA has a great replacement regulator with excellent installation instructions. The price on the regulator is $86. Works like a charm. www.electrexusa.com. All Yamaha's from 1984-1993 use the same Electrex regulator, the RG25. Even though the '89 model is not listed, it works as well according to Electrex USA staff and my successful attempt to install one on my '89.

 

[Brett]

An FZ750 voltage regulator will fit on the FJ (same part number), if you’d like to visit your local junk yard / salvage yard.

[Chris Vollmer]

TOC

 

{8.4}  How do I rewire the Headlight relays?

The headlight on the FJ often doesn’t get more than 9 Volts. This mod will make a very noticeable difference on the strength of the headlight.

 To see the schematics and photos of the installation, go to http://kickme.to/fj1200 and look in the “Modifications” menu under “My mods”,

or go to the Yahoo YAMAHA FJ1100 FJ1200 Owners Discussions group at  http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/yamahafj under the “Files” section.

 

[Chris Vollmer]

 

Here's my opinions on the headlight relay mods.
I used to do a lot of riding at night. With the stock wiring, I was always struggling and usually out riding my headlight coverage.

I had already switched to the 80/100w bulb with the stock wiring and it was a minimal improvement.
Then I installed the relays. I can't quantify the improvement in terms of a percentage, but I was really impressed with the increased output.

It was like taking sunglasses off after nightfall. The increase is significant and well worth the effort/money if you do ANY riding at night.

Even with the stock 55/60w bulb, the results are very noticeable.
In full daylight, I can tell when someone has done the relay mod. The stock setup gives off more of a subdued yellowish light.

A relayed setup has a nice crisp white light. You can also feel the higher heat output of the mod about a foot in front of the headlight.
Riding down the highway with my low beam on, I occasionally see cagers reach up and flip their mirror when I'm behind them.

After seeing the results of this mod on my '85, it was the first mod I performed on my '93 when I got it.

[David Raforth].

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{9.1} What is a "Legend car"?

It's a 5/8 car with a FJ 1200 engine. Apparently the sport is very popular and cheap. So watch out for those 'Legend car drivers' which may buy your FJ and rip out the heart (engine) of it. :-(

What is most distressing about this heinous crime is that is completely unnecessary as apparently you can buy a complete new FJ engine from Yamaha. A local dealer here in Columbus recently supplied a group of local legend racers with 20 brand-new engines (at about $5K each, if memory serves..). This is fastest growing sport in England (UK) and soon it will be launched here in Sweden too.

[John Vigrass/Patrik Sjoblom]

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{9.2} What year was my bike built? (i.e. Identification numbers)

The frame number tells you which year your bike is but you need the key table below.

Model Code:	Number /Engine codes:
84 - FJ1100 L/LC	47E (Germany/Sweden), 47F (Switzerland), 47M (California), 50H (USA), 36Y (England/UK, France, Greece, Holland, Italy, Norway, Austria, Belgium, Denmark, Canary), C - California model, has charcoal canister to remove gasoline vapours that are normally just vented to atmosphere.
85 - Same as 84
86 FJ1200S/SC	1TX (UK), 1UX (USA), 1WJ (California)
88	3CV1 (UK)
89 FJ1200W/WC	3SK1 (USA), 3SK2 (California)
90	3CV6 (UK), 3SK4 (USA), 3SK5 (California)
91 FJ1200D/DC	3XW1 (UK), 3XW2 (UK/ABS), 4AH1 (USA), 4AH2 (California)
92 FJ1200A/AC	3XW5(UK), 3XW7 (UK/ABS), 4AH4((USA), 4CR1 (USA/ABS), 4AH5(California), 4CR2 (California/ABS)
93	3XW5(UK), 3XW7 (UK/ABS), 4CR4 (USA), 4CR5 (California)

[Jeff Domey]

{9.3} Are there any motorcycle salvage yards?

Yes, try them before you buy something new. Parts are usually sold here in Sweden for 35-65% of the new price.
List has been deleted. Go to these lists on the web instead:

[Patrik Sjoblom]

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{9.4} Has there been any recall for the FJ?

N.B. This article has been shortened down by me (Chris Vollmer) .If anyone wants to read it in its full length, please contact me by clicking here.

************************************** begin bulletin text ****************************
RECALL FJ1100C,LC,N,NC

Date: 7/1/85         No. M85-011

FACTORY MODIFICATION CAMPAIGN

It has been determined that a possible defect which relates to motor vehicle safety may exist in the rear brake system on the affected models. Dealers must not sell or deliver any affected models until the modification has been performed. Motorcycles already sold to customers must have priority for modification.

AFFECTED MODELS

All    FJ1100L, FJ1100LC, FJ1100N, FJ1100NC

DESCRIPTION OF POSSIBLE DEFECT AND CORRECTION

Under extreme-use conditions that would cause the rear suspension to compress completely, it is possible for the swingarm to contact the rigid portion of the rear brake hose in the area just behind the master cylinder. This contact could cause the union bolt to loosen, resulting in a possible loss of brake fluid. Brake operation and performance could thereby be affected.

A new rear brake hose has been designed to prevent contact with the swingarm.
This new hose must be installed on all affected models.

 [Chuck Rogers]

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{11} Conversion Factors

TORQUE
Newton meters (Nm) to Pounds-force Feet (Lbf.ft), multiply by 0.738

Pounds-force Feet (Lbf.ft) to Newton meters (Nm), multiply by 1.35582

Newton meters (Nm) to Kilograms-force Meters (kgf.m), multiply by 0.1019716

Kilograms-force Meters (kgf.m) to Newton meters (Nm), multiply by 9.80665

Kilograms-force Meters (kgf.m) to Pounds-force Feet (Lbf.ft), multiply by 7.233

Pounds-force Feet (Lbf.ft) to Kilograms-force Meters (kgf.m), multiply by 0.1382552

WEIGHT
Kilograms to Pounds, multiply by 2.205

Pounds to Kilograms, multiply by 0.4535924

Grams to Ounces, multiply by 0.0352736

Ounces to Grams, multiply by 28.34952

VOLUME
Gallons (UK) to Liters, multiply by 4.546

Liters to Gallons (UK), multiply by 0.2199692

Gallons (US) to Liters, multiply by 3.785412

Liters to Gallons (US), multiply by 0.2641721
Cubic Centimeters to Cubic Inches, multiply by 0.061
Cubic Inches to Cubic Centimeters, multiply by 16.38706

 

POWER
Kilowatts to Horsepowers, multiply by 1.341022

Horsepowers to Kilowatts, multiply by 0.7456999

LENGTH
Kilometers to Miles, multiply by 0.621

Miles to Kilometers, multiply by 1.609344
Inches to Millimeters, multiply by 25.4
Millimeters to Inches, multiply by 0.0394

Meters to Yards, multiply by 1.09361

Yards to Meters, multiply by 0.9144

PRESSURE
Bars to PSI, multiply by 14.5

PSI to Bars, multiply by 0.06894757

Kilograms/sq. cm (kg/cm²) to Bars, multiply by 0.98067

Bars to Kilograms/sq. cm (kg/cm²), multiply by 1.0197

Kilograms/sq. cm (kg/cm²) to PSI, multiply by 14.223

PSI to Kilograms/sq. cm (kg/cm²), multiply by 0.07031

 

TEMPERATURE
Degrees Centigrade (Celsius) to Fahrenheit, degrees F-32, and then multiply by 0.56
Degrees Fahrenheit to Centigrade (Celsius), multiply degrees C by 1.8, then add +32

VELOCITY
Km/h to mph, multiply by 0.621

Mph to km/h, multiply by 1.609344

[Chris Vollmer]

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C O N T R I B U T O R S (Authors)  in alphabetical order.

Note that many of the contributors e-mail addresses are obsolete. Please send updates to me / [Chris Vollmer].

[Adam in NY]	<[email protected]>
[Ahmet]	<[email protected]>
[Alan Jones]	<[email protected]>
[Andy C. Pugh]	<[email protected]>
[Andy Mansker]	<[email protected]>
[Arnie Robbins]	<[email protected]>
[Barry Edwards]	<[email protected]>
[Bill]	<[email protected]>
[Blaine S. Gardner]	<[email protected]>
[Brad Warkentin]	<[email protected]>
[Brett]	<[email protected]>
[Brian C. Peterson]	<[email protected]>
[Brian Heaven]	<[email protected]>
[Charles J. Scappaticci]	<[email protected]>
[Charles Robinson]	<[email protected]>
[Chris Rawson]	<[email protected]>
[Chris Vollmer]	<[email protected]>
[Chuck Rogers]	<[email protected]>
[Darin C. Ginther]	<[email protected]>
[Dave Kingsland]	<[email protected]>
[David L Mazzaferro (Mazz)]	<[email protected]>
[David May]	<[email protected]>
[David Raforth]	<[email protected]>
[Dirk Everling]	<[email protected]>
[Dirk Rietkerk]	<[email protected]>
[Frank Moore]	<[email protected]>
[Gary Foreman]	<[email protected]>
[Grant Marko]	<[email protected]>
[Haarek Gamst]	<[email protected]>
[Howard Hughes]	<[email protected]>
[Jair Larson]	<[email protected]>
[Jeff Bixby]	<[email protected]>
[Jeff Domey]	<[email protected]>
[Jeff Earls]	<[email protected]>
[Jimi]	<[email protected]>
[Joe Megyes  '92 FJ12]	<[email protected]>
[John Irvine]	<[email protected]>
[John Laurenson]	<[email protected]>
[John Vigrass]	<[email protected]>
[Jon Cain]	<[email protected]>
[Jon Jarosz]	<[email protected]>
[Kevin (KevLor)]	<[email protected]>
[Lee Carkenord]	<[email protected]>
[Lidvar Budal]	<[email protected]>
[Mandy Parker]	<[email protected]>
[Marcel Guldemond]	<[email protected]>
[Mark Wallace]	<[email protected]>
[Master Ho]	<[email protected]>
[Michael Kasimirsky]	<[email protected]>
[Michael O'Connell]	<[email protected]>
[Patrik Sjoblom]	<[email protected]>
[Rheltyr]	<[email protected]>
[Richard D. JR Walker]	<[email protected]>
[Rob Alkema, (Bugslayer)]	<[email protected]>
[Rob Alkema]	<[email protected]>
[Scott Pivnik]	<[email protected]>
[Steve Thornton]	<[email protected]>
[Steve Wassenich]	<[email protected]>
[Steven Andrews]	<[email protected]>
[Terry Snyder]	<[email protected]>
[Texas Ben]	<[email protected]>
[Tim Buhler]	<tb01365%[email protected]>
[Tim Chin]	<[email protected]>
[Tomas Segerberg]	<[email protected]>
[Trevor Harris]	<[email protected]>

TOC

Thanks to everyone who sent suggestions, additions, and corrections and of course all
contributors which made it possible to compile this FAQ list.

*Search engines:
http://www.google.com

http://www.infoseek.com

http://www.yahoo.com

http://www.lycos.com

http://www.hotbot.com/

 

Copyright 1998-1999 © Patrik Sjoblom Tyreso, Stockholm, SWEDEN
Copyright 1999-2000 © Chris Rawson, Manchester NH, USA

Copyright 2003-         © Christer (Chris) Vollmer, Motala, SWEDEN

http://kickme.to/fj1200 (Chris Vollmer) or http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/1039/  (Patrik Sjöblom)