Sites visited


1. Patapampa, near Arequipa       15th February, 2006

   Patapampa is easily reached from Arequipa by bus. There are several bus companies going to Chivay. Reyna and Andalucia both have services leaving the main terminal at 6:30 in the morning. I took the Andalucia bus (11 Soles - overcharged?) which arrived in Patapampa in less than 3 hours. Patapampa is the highest point on the Chivay road at 4800m. Do not overexert yourself at this altitude. Stupidly I ran to get the bus back, missed it and was left hyperventilating. I managed to hitch back to a junction from where more buses pass. Before Patapampa, you pass a big red INRENA sign on the right and shortly after a sign for Mirador Los Andes (also on the right). This is a good place to get off. There is a spectacular view of several volcanoes from here. Walk back down the road towards Arequipa and after about 1km some 'bofedales' (cusion-plant bogs) will come into view. go round the bend and look for the first stream going down. This passes through a small bofedal where I found a Diademed Sandpiper-Plover pair with a chick less than 50m from the road. There is another larger bofedal further along on the right. Here too I saw Grey-breasted Seedsnipe and White-fronted Ground-Tyrant. There seem several good wetland areas on the way worth exploring if you have your own transport.

I saw 15 species including 1 lifer

Speckled Teal Anas flavirostris Seen on the way to Patapampa
Crested Duck Anas specularioides Seen on the way to Patapampa
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Giant Coot Fulica gigantea Seen on the way to Patapampa
Diademed Sandpiper-Plover Phegornis mitchellii Near-threatened
Andean Gull Larus serranus Seen on the way to Patapampa
Puna Miner Geositta punensis Seen on the way to Patapampa
Bar-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes fuscus
Cordilleran Canastero Asthenes modesta
White-fronted Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola albifrons
Andean Swallow Haplochelidon andecola
White-throated Sierra-Finch Phrygilus erythronotus
Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch Phrygilus plebejus
White-winged Diuca-Finch Diuca speculifera
Black Siskin Carduelis atrata


2. Tumbes Reserved Zone, Tumbes       2nd-6th March, 2006

   This is a fantastic birding location with many threatened and near-threatened species. Permission must first be granted by IBRENA in Tumbes. This was not difficult. Go to their offices at the Ministerio de Agricultura (big green buildings) near the corner of Tarapaca and 28 de Julio. You need to write a 'solicito', or letter asking for permission. They can show you one and you can copy it out there and then. To get to the Tumbes Reserved Zone, you need first to go to the small town of Pampas de Hospital (20km). There are minibuses and colectivos leaving from the south end of the market. From Pampas, take a left at a sign to El Caucho, or ask the way. It is 36km along a gravel road whose condition depends very much on the season. In March, it was washed away and impassable by car. I walked carrying all my food and water. Not recommended. Better would be to hire a local guide and donkeys to carry the bags. The first part of the road was agricultural land, then scrub. The road then goes up into forest. You pass a mirador with a fantastic view. From there on the birding improves. It took me almost 10 hours to walk to El Caucho and 8 hours back.Good birds on the way were Black-and-white Tanager, Grey-breasted Flycatcher, Black-faced Spinetail (about 4 hours walk from El Caucho) and Saffron Siskin (common along the stretch 2-4 hours from El Caucho). There is a police post at El Caucho usually with only 1 cop. The ones I met were very friendly and let me use their dormitory and even cooked me some meals.
   A great birding spot was down from El Caucho to Quebrada Faical about 1km away (where INRENA are building a biological station with accomodation). This section had Pacific Royal Flycatcher, Henna-hooded Foliage-gleaner, Guayaquil Woodpecker and Slaty Becard. Pale-browed Tinamou, Grey-cheeked Parakeet and Ochre-bellied Dove were found (usually just heard) throughout. The Quebrada was too high to cross the first 2 days, but the third I birded the other side along the trail towards Campo Verde. This section had Rufous-headed Chachalaca, Plain-brown Woodcreeper, Tumbes Hummingbird and Thrush-like Schiffornis.

I saw 102 species including 35 lifers

Little Tinamou Crypturellus soui Heard only Recorded
Pale-browed Tinamou Crypturellus transfasciatus Near-threatened Recorded
Great Egret Ardea alba Seen between Tumbes and Pampas de Hospital
Snowy Egret Egretta thula Seen between Tumbes and Pampas de Hospital
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Seen between Tumbes and Pampas de Hospital
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Pearl Kite Gampsonyx swainsonii
Zone-tailed Hawk Buteo albonotatus
Crested Caracara Caracara cheriway
Laughing Falcon Herpetotheres cachinnans Photographed
Collared Forest-Falcon Micrastur semitorquatus Heard only Recorded
Rufous-headed Chachalaca Ortalis erythroptera Vulnerable Probably seen
Black-necked Stilt Himantopus mexicanus Seen between Tumbes and Pampas de Hospital
Killdeer Charadrius vociferus Seen between Pampas de Hospital and TRZ
Ecuadorian Ground-Dove Columbina buckleyi Photographed
Blue Ground-Dove Claravis pretiosa Photographed
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi
Ochre-bellied Dove Leptotila ochraceiventris Vulnerable
Pacific Parrotlet Forpus coelestis Seen between Pampas de Hospital and TRZ Photographed
Gray-cheeked Parakeet Brotogeris pyrrhopterus Endangered Recorded?
Bronze-winged Parrot Pionus chalcopterus
Gray-capped Cuckoo Coccyzus lansbergi
Groove-billed Ani Crotophaga sulcirostris Photographed
Spectacled Owl Pulsatrix perspicillata Heard only
Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium brasilianum Possibly seen
Peruvian Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium peruanum Heard only
Pauraque Nyctidromus albicollis
White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris
Violet-bellied Hummingbird Damophila julie
Tumbes Hummingbird Leucippus baeri Endemic Photographed
Amazilia Hummingbird Amazilia amazilia Photographed
Violaceous Trogon Trogon violaceus Recorded Photographed
Black-tailed Trogon Trogon melanurus Recorded Photographed
Blue-crowned Motmot Momotus momota Photographed
Ecuadorian Piculet Picumnus sclateri Photographed
Scarlet-backed Woodpecker Veniliornis callonotus
Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus Photographed
Guayaquil Woodpecker Campephilus gayaquilensis Near-threatened Recorded
Pale-legged Hornero Furnarius leucopus Photographed
Black-faced Spinetail Synallaxis tithys Endangered Recorded Photographed
Streaked Xenops Xenops rutilans Photographed
Henna-hooded Foliage-gleaner Hylocryptus erythrocephalus Vulnerable
Plain-brown Woodcreeper Dendrocincla fuliginosa Recorded Photographed
Olivaceous Woodcreeper Sittasomus griseicapillus
Streak-headed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes souleyetii
Red-billed Scythebill Campylorhamphus trochilirostris
Collared Antshrike Sakesphorus bernardi Photographed
Chapman's Antshrike Thamnophilus zarumae Possbily heard between Pampas & TRZ
Plain Antvireo Dysithamnus mentalis Recorded Photographed
White-backed Fire-eye Pyriglena leuconota
Elegant Crescent-chest Melanopareia elegans Recorded Photographed
Thrush-like Schiffornis Schiffornis turdinus Recorded Photographed
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet Camptostoma obsoletum
Pacific Elaenia Myiopagis subplacens
Greenish Elaenia Myiopagis viridicata Possibly seen Photographed?
Tawny-crowned Pygmy-Tyrant Euscarthmus meloryphus
Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant Lophotriccus pileatus Recorded Photographed
Common Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum cinereum Photographed
Yellow-olive Flycatcher Tolmomyias sulphurescens
Pacific Royal-Flycatcher Onychorhynchus occidentalis Vulnerable Recorded Photographed
Black-tailed Flycatcher Myiobius atricaudus
Gray-breasted Flycatcher Lathrotriccus griseipectus Vulnerable
Tropical Pewee Contopus cinereus
Dusky-capped Flycatcher Myiarchus tuberculifer Photographed
Sooty-crowned Flycatcher Myiarchus phaeocephalus
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua
Baird's Flycatcher Myiodynastes bairdii Possibly seen in Tumbes
Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculatus Photographed
Snowy-throated Kingbird Tyrannus niveigularis
Eastern Kingbird Tyrannus tyrannus Photographed
Gray-breasted Martin Progne chalybea Seen between Tumbes and Pampas de Hospital
Fasciated Wren Campylorhynchus fasciatus Photographed
Speckle-breasted Wren Thryothorus sclateri
Long-tailed Mockingbird Mimus longicaudatus Seen between Pampas de Hospital and TRZ
Ecuadorian Thrush Turdus maculirostris Photographed
Tropical Gnatcatcher Polioptila plumbea
White-tailed Jay Cyanocorax mystacalis Photographed
Red-eyed Vireo Vireo olivaceus
Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis
Tropical Parula Parula pitiayumi
Gray-and-gold Warbler Basileuterus fraseri Photographed
Black-and-white Tanager Conothraupis speculigera Near-threatened Photographed?
Hepatic Tanager Piranga flava
Lemon-rumped Tanager Ramphocelus icteronotus Photographed
Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus
Thick-billed Euphonia Euphonia laniirostris Photographed
Bay-headed Tanager Tangara gyrola Photographed
Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina
Variable Seedeater Sporophila corvina Photographed
Dull-colored Grassquit Tiaris obscura Photographed
Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola
Black-capped Sparrow Arremon abeillei Photographed
Tumbes Sparrow Aimophila stolzmanni Possibly seen
Streaked Saltator Saltator striatipectus
Golden-bellied Grosbeak Pheucticus chrysogaster
Peruvian Meadowlark Sturnella bellicosa
Scrub Blackbird Dives warszewiczi Seen between Pampas de Hospital and TRZ
Yellow-tailed Oriole Icterus mesomelas
White-edged Oriole Icterus graceannae Seen between Pampas de Hospital and TRZ Photographed
Yellow-rumped Cacique Cacicus cela
Saffron Siskin Carduelis siemiradzkii Vulnerable Recorded? Photographed


3. Chinguela Ridge, near Sapalache, Piura      9th-12th March, 2006

   The Chinguela Ridge can be birded by first heading to Huancabamba from Piura (8 hours if you're lucky). The road is bad and in the rainy season, traffic is interupted constantly with lanslides and river-crossings. 3 bus companies leave from Piura. I travelled with 'Etipthsac' who leave at 7am and also have night bus leaving at 5pm (S20). Huancabamba has several places to stay, eat and also internet access. I stayed at Danubio for S10. From Huancabamba, colectivos leave for Sapalache (ask from where). This is another 1 hour uphill on a poor road which is also susceptible to landslides in the rainy season. Public transport probably finishes in Sapalache although a couple of minibuses were seen going up and coming back down in the early afternoon. It may be possible to stay at the restaurant in Sapalache if you miss the last colectivo back to Huancabamba at about 5pm or want to get an early start. Several pick-ups travel along this road and it may well be possible to hitch. If not, it is less than 3 hours to the ridge along a fairly new road in good condition leaving from the Sapalache plaza. Paramo Pipit was seen on the way up. I walked up here and camped for 2 nights birding the elfin forest on the other side of the ridge. Habitat destruction appears to be occuring at an alarming rate, especially along the road. Burning whole hillsides appears to be standard practice. At the highest point on the the road, there are several patches of elfin forest that are definately worth exploring. I missed these in the fog on the way up and had no time to explore on the way back. Further on, the road passes through paramo for a while and then elfin forest starts again. An overhead electric wire crosses the road at several points. Where it crosses the 3rd time, there is a path leading down past one of the poles to the left of the road. This leads past the site of an old house where the ground is flat and makes a good camp-ground. In the rainy season, there were plenty of small streams which would seem to provide amply drinking water.
   Any elfin forest from the top down to where the dead trees start is worth birding. The best area I found was an old trail which runs above the road at the top through paramo. Before a right turn down the hill around where the elfin forest starts again, there is a lone tree on the right. Before this on the left of the road are some numbers painted in white on a rock. 386 crossed out and 1282 painted in its place. Just before this is a very small stream coming down. Follow this up and it will get to a bigger trail above. This passes through several good patches of forest. Birds found in this area included Chusquea Tapaculo, several species of mountain-tanager, Rainbow-bearded Thornbill, Chestnut-naped Antpitta, Pale-naped Brush-Finch, Mouse-colored Thistletail and Andean Snipe (also heard displaying at night). General birds of the elfin forest included Glossy Flowerpiercer, Neblina Metaltail, Glowing Puffleg, Rufous-naped Brush-Finch, Black-crested Warbler, Turquoise Jay, etc.
   I also birded the western slope of the ridge approached from a different way. Instead of turning off the road to the plaza in Sapalache, continue straight on to a trout farm (pescaria). Here the road ends but a path continues up. This forks soon and either route leads up and to some remnant forest patches. Birds seen here but not on the eastern side were: Citrine Warbler, Red-crested Cotinga and Rainbow-fronted Starfrontlet. The habitat destruction on this slope is worse and very little remained. At the tree-line on the western side, I flushed a large snipe from paramo which flew into forest. It seemed much more rufous than Andean and could have been one of the rarer species.

I saw 69 species including 19 lifers

Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
American Kestrel Falco sparverius
Andean Snipe Gallinago jamesoni Photographed
Band-tailed Pigeon Patagioenas fasciata
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata
White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris
Sparkling Violet-ear Colibri coruscans
Chestnut-breasted Coronet Boissonneaua matthewsii
Shining Sunbeam Aglaeactis cupripennis Photographed
Mountain Velvetbreast Lafresnaya lafresnayi Possibly seen
Collared Inca Coeligena torquata Photographed
Rainbow Starfrontlet Coeligena iris
Glowing Puffleg Eriocnemis vestitus
Tyrian Metaltail Metallura tyrianthina Photographed
Neblina Metaltail Metallura odomae Near-threatened Photographed
Rainbow-bearded Thornbill Chalcostigma herrani Photographed
Mouse-colored Thistletail Schizoeaca griseomurina Photographed
Many-striped Canastero Asthenes flammulata Photographed Recorded
Pearled Treerunner Margarornis squamiger
Flammulated Treehunter Thripadectes flammulatus Possibly heard
Chestnut-naped Antpitta Grallaria nuchalis Heard only
Chusquea Tapaculo Scytalopus parkeri Photographed Recorded
Red-crested Cotinga Ampelion rubrocristata
White-crested Elaenia Elaenia albiceps
Sierran Elaenia Elaenia pallatangae Possibly seen
White-throated Tyrannulet Mecocerculus leucophrys
White-banded Tyrannulet Mecocerculus stictopterus Possibly seen
Tufted Tit-Tyrant Anairetes parulus Possibly seen
Cinnamon Flycatcher Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea
Cliff Flycatcher Hirundinea ferruginea
Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca rufipectoralis
Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca fumicolor Photographed
White-browed Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca leucophrys Possibly seen
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Gray-breasted Martin Progne chalybea Seen in Huancabamba
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Brown-bellied Swallow Notiochelidon murina
Paramo Pipit Anthus bogotensis
Rufous Wren Cinnycerthia unirufa
Sedge Wren Cistothorus platensis
Great Thrush Turdus fuscater
Turquoise Jay Cyanolyca turcosa Photographed Recorded
Slate-throated Redstart Myioborus miniatus
Spectacled Redstart Myioborus melanocephalus
Citrine Warbler Basileuterus luteoviridis
Black-crested Warbler Basileuterus nigrocristatus
Russet-crowned Warbler Basileuterus coronatus
Blue-backed Conebill Conirostrum sitticolor
Capped Conebill Conirostrum albifrons
Black-capped Hemispingus Hemispingus atropileus Photographed
Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus
Blue-capped Tanager Thraupis cyanocephala Photographed
Hooded Mountain-Tanager Buthraupis montana Photographed
Black-chested Mountain-Tanager Buthraupis eximia Photographed
Lacrimose Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus lacrymosus
Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus igniventris
Golden-crowned Tanager Iridosornis rufivertex
Buff-breasted Mountain-Tanager Dubusia taeniata Photographed
Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch Phrygilus plebejus Photographed
Plain-colored Seedeater Catamenia inornata
Glossy Flowerpiercer Diglossa lafresnayii Photographed
Black Flowerpiercer Diglossa humeralis Possibly seen
Masked Flowerpiercer Diglossopis cyanea
Pale-naped Brush-Finch Atlapetes pallidinucha Photographed
Yellow-breasted Brush-Finch Atlapetes latinuchus Photographed
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Golden-bellied Grosbeak Pheucticus chrysogaster
Peruvian Meadowlark Sturnella bellicosa Seen near Sapalache
Hooded Siskin Carduelis magellanica Seen near Sapalache


4. Puente Fierro, near Canchaque, Piura      13th-15th March, 2006

   Canchaque is apparently 77km from the turn-off on the Pan-americana and usually 4 hours by bus. The route below Canchaque was blocked by landslides and buses where passing a different way through El Faique. Canchaque is a small town but has a couple of places to stay and eat near the plaza but no internet. I stayed at Hostal Don Felix (S10). Chestnut-collared Swallows nested under the rooves of town buildings. A spot on the way up to Huancabamba good for birding is Puente Fierro, a disused iron bridge. This is apparently 85km from the turn-off, 8km above Canchaque. This took 2 and a half hours walking up hill (via Palabla) but only an hour and a half using a short cut path (good for Black-cowled Saltator) leading up from the mirador in Canchaque over-looking the church. The area around the bridge has lots of bamboo and Masked Saltator and Grey-headed Antbird have been seen here. I saw neither. Another spot mentioned was 4km and a couple of bends further on. I found the best spot was about 500m past the bridge overlooking a slope downhill. Here I saw some mixed tanager flocks including Fawn-breasted, Rufous-chested Tanagers and Piura Hemispingus. Between where the short-cut path comes out and the bridge I saw Rufous-necked Foliage-gleaner. White-winged (Paynter's) Brush-finch and Three-banded Warbler were common all the way down to Canchaque. Whilst waiting for a landslide to be cleared near the top of the road (about 2800m), I saw White-browed Spinetail with chicks just left the nest (nest and chicks photographed). At a river-crossing on the way back to Piura, 3 Comb Ducks were seen flying over.

I saw 53 species including 8 lifers

Great Egret Ardea alba Seen between Canchaque & Piura
Snowy Egret Egretta thula Seen between Canchaque & Piura
Comb Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos Seen between Canchaque & Piura
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Savanna Hawk Buteogallus meridionalis Seen between Canchaque & Piura
American Kestrel Falco sparverius
Band-tailed Pigeon Patagioenas fasciata
Pacific Parrotlet Forpus coelestis Seen between Canchaque & Piura
Groove-billed Ani Crotophaga sulcirostris Seen between Canchaque & Piura
Peruvian Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium peruanum Seen between Canchaque & Piura
Sparkling Violet-ear Colibri coruscans Heard below the ridge above Puente Fierro (2,800m)
Amazilia Hummingbird Amazilia amazilia
Shining Sunbeam Aglaeactis cupripennis Seen below the ridge above Puente Fierro (2,800m) Photographed
Ringed Kingfisher Ceryle torquatus Seen between Canchaque & Piura
Pale-legged Hornero Furnarius leucopus
Azara's Spinetail Synallaxis azarae Recorded
White-browed Spinetail Hellmayrea gularis Seen below the ridge above Puente Fierro (2,800m) Photographed
Rufous-necked Foliage-gleaner Syndactyla ruficollis Vulnerable
Chestnut-crowned Antpitta Grallaria ruficapilla Heard only Recorded
Elegant Crescent-chest Melanopareia elegans
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet Camptostoma obsoletum
Tropical Pewee Contopus cinereus
Dusky-capped Flycatcher Myiarchus tuberculifer
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Gray-breasted Martin Progne chalybea Seen in Palambla Photographed
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Chestnut-collared Swallow Petrochelidon rufocollaris
Fasciated Wren Campylorhynchus fasciatus
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Long-tailed Mockingbird Mimus longicaudatus Seen between Canchaque & Piura
Andean Solitaire Myadestes ralloides Possibly heard
Great Thrush Turdus fuscater
Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis Heard only
Masked Yellowthroat Geothlypis aequinoctialis
Slate-throated Redstart Myioborus miniatus Photographed
Three-banded Warbler Basileuterus trifasciatus Photographed Recorded
Rufous-chested Tanager Thlypopsis ornata
Hepatic Tanager Piranga flava
Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus
Fawn-breasted Tanager Pipraeidea melanonota Photographed
Thick-billed Euphonia Euphonia laniirostris
Piura Hemispingus Hemispingus piurae Photographed
Dull-colored Grassquit Tiaris obscura
Rusty Flowerpiercer Diglossa sittoides
Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola Seen between Canchaque & Piura
Yellow-breasted Brush-Finch Atlapetes latinuchus
White-winged Brush-Finch Atlapetes leucopterus Photographed
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Black-cowled Saltator Saltator nigriceps Recorded
Golden-bellied Grosbeak Pheucticus chrysogaster
Scrub Blackbird Dives warszewiczi Recorded


5. El Tocto, near Olmos, Lambayeque       17th-18th March, 2006

   El Tocto is a site for the critically endangered White-winged Guan. It is fairly easily accessed from Olmos if you have your transport and requires a long, hot walk if you don't. Olmos is a medium-sized town with a few places to stay, eat and also has internet. I stayed at 'El Remanso' for 20s. Colectivos leave Chiclayo for Olmos, take an hour and a half and cost 9s. The Tarapoto bus from Piura can also drop you off on the highway. To visit El Tocto or Limon to see wild guans, it's best first to call in at the captive breeding centre at km103 for more information. The turning for El Tocto is at km105, 2km past the centre. There is also another centre with captive cracids of many different species after the turn that maybe worth a look. To get to the turn, you can take a colectivo or moto with others (2s) or privately (5s). From the turn it is 16km to El Tocto. The road is not in such bad condition but vehicles rarely pass along it and hitching would be difficult.
   Some good birds can be seen along here including Peruvian Thick-knee, Short-tailed Woodstar, Red-masked Parakeet, Parrot-billed Seeteater, Tumbes Sparrow and Cinereous Finch. After about 10km you have to cross a river several times. Here I saw Ringed & Green Kingfishers and Comb Duck. After the last crossing I saw Crimson-breasted Finch. It takes about 4 hours to get to El Tocto. The people here are very friendly and there are a couple of shops selling soft drinks and cookies. It is a very good idea to get a local to show you the spot where the guans are. I didn't do this and hence didn't see the guans. The description of how to get there in 'Valqui' mentions the house of Mr Murante but apparently he died over 10 years ago and his house no longer stands. Everyone knows the spot though. I took a wrong turn on the way up and ended up in a different place but still had lots of good birds such as: Plumbeus-backed Thrush, White-headed Brush-Finch, Elegant Crescentchest, Pale-browed Tinamou, Ochre-bellied Dove and Black-and-white Tanager.

I saw 71 species including 10 lifers

Pale-browed Tinamou Crypturellus transfasciatus Near-threatened
Comb Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos Photographed
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus Photographed
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Great Black-Hawk Buteogallus urubitinga
Harris's Hawk Parabuteo unicinctus
Peruvian Thick-knee Burhinus superciliaris
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Introduced species
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata
Pacific Dove Zenaida meloda
Croaking Ground-Dove Columbina cruziana Photographed
Blue Ground-Dove Claravis pretiosa
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi Photographed
Ochre-bellied Dove Leptotila ochraceiventris Vulnerable Heard
Red-masked Parakeet Aratinga erythrogenys Near-threatened Photographed
Pacific Parrotlet Forpus coelestis
Groove-billed Ani Crotophaga sulcirostris
Peruvian Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium peruanum
Pauraque Nyctidromus albicollis
Amazilia Hummingbird Amazilia amazilia
Long-billed Starthroat Heliomaster longirostris
Short-tailed Woodstar Myrmia micrura Photographed
Ringed Kingfisher Ceryle torquatus
Green Kingfisher Chloroceryle americana
Blue-crowned Motmot Momotus momota
Scarlet-backed Woodpecker Veniliornis callonotus Photographed
Pale-legged Hornero Furnarius leucopus
Necklaced Spinetail Synallaxis stictothorax Possibly seen
Streak-headed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes souleyetii
Collared Antshrike Sakesphorus bernardi
Elegant Crescent-chest Melanopareia elegans Photographed
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet Camptostoma obsoletum
Mouse-colored Tyrannulet Phaeomyias murina
Gray-and-white Tyrannulet Pseudelaenia leucospodia
Rufous-winged Tyrannulet Mecocerculus calopterus
Tawny-crowned Pygmy-Tyrant Euscarthmus meloryphus
Common Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum cinereum
Yellow-olive Flycatcher Tolmomyias sulphurescens
Vermilion Flycatcher Pyrocephalus rubinus Photographed
Short-tailed Field-Tyrant Muscigralla brevicauda Possibly seen
Baird's Flycatcher Myiodynastes bairdii Photographed
Gray-breasted Martin Progne chalybea
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
Fasciated Wren Campylorhynchus fasciatus
Speckle-breasted Wren Thryothorus sclateri Heard
Superciliated Wren Thryothorus superciliaris
Long-tailed Mockingbird Mimus longicaudatus Photographed
Plumbeous-backed Thrush Turdus reevei Photographed
Tropical Gnatcatcher Polioptila plumbea Photographed
White-tailed Jay Cyanocorax mystacalis
Tropical Parula Parula pitiayumi
Gray-and-gold Warbler Basileuterus fraseri
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola
Black-and-white Tanager Conothraupis speculigera Near-threatened
Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus
Thick-billed Euphonia Euphonia laniirostris
Crimson-breasted Finch Rhodospingus cruentus
Cinereous Finch Piezorhina cinerea Endemic
Parrot-billed Seedeater Sporophila peruviana Photographed
Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola
White-winged Brush-Finch Atlapetes leucopterus Photographed
White-headed Brush-Finch Atlapetes albiceps
Black-capped Sparrow Arremon abeillei
Tumbes Sparrow Aimophila stolzmanni Photographed
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Golden-bellied Grosbeak Pheucticus chrysogaster
Peruvian Meadowlark Sturnella bellicosa Photographed
Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis
Yellow-tailed Oriole Icterus mesomelas
White-edged Oriole Icterus graceannae
Hooded Siskin Carduelis magellanica Possibly seen


6. Batan Grande, near Chiclayo, Lambayeque      19th March, 2006

   I was lucky enough to visit this site with Fernando Angulo from Cracidae Peru. This is apparently the best place to see the endangered Peruvian Plantcutter. They are common around the 'Arbol Milenario' and easy to find in the morning by following their calls. We also saw Rufous Flycatcher, Cinereus Finch, Mouse-coloured (Tumbesian) Tyrannelet and Streaked Saltator here. Further along the road is a sign for Mirador Las Salinas which is a very dry area with sparser trees. This is a good area for the rare Tumbes Swallow. We also maybe saw Common Miner (identification difficulties). We also checked a rocky hillside nearby where we saw Short-tailed Field-Tyrant and Band-tailed Sierra Finch. The latter, a probable first sighting for the species in the area.

I saw 49 species including 3 lifers

Great Egret Ardea alba
Snowy Egret Egretta thula Seen between Batan Grande and Chiclayo
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Seen between Batan Grande and Chiclayo
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Savanna Hawk Buteogallus meridionalis Seen between Batan Grande and Chiclayo
Harris's Hawk Parabuteo unicinctus
Red-backed Hawk Buteo polyosoma Photographed
Crested Caracara Caracara cheriway Seen between Batan Grande and Chiclayo
Black-necked Stilt Himantopus mexicanus
Franklin's Gull Larus pipixcan Seen between Batan Grande and Chiclayo
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata
Pacific Dove Zenaida meloda
Croaking Ground-Dove Columbina cruziana
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi
Groove-billed Ani Crotophaga sulcirostris
Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia Heard
Lesser Nighthawk Chordeiles acutipennis Photographed
Amazilia Hummingbird Amazilia amazilia
Scarlet-backed Woodpecker Veniliornis callonotus
Golden-olive Woodpecker Piculus rubiginosus
Coastal Miner Geositta peruviana
Pale-legged Hornero Furnarius leucopus
Necklaced Spinetail Synallaxis stictothorax
Collared Antshrike Sakesphorus bernardi
Peruvian Plantcutter Phytotoma raimondii Endemic Endangered Photographed
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet Camptostoma obsoletum Heard
Mouse-colored (Tumbesian) Tyrannulet Phaeomyias murina Photographed
Gray-and-white Tyrannulet Pseudelaenia leucospodia
Common Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum cinereum
Vermilion Flycatcher Pyrocephalus rubinus
Short-tailed Field-Tyrant Muscigralla brevicauda
Rufous Flycatcher Myiarchus semirufus Endemic
Baird's Flycatcher Myiodynastes bairdii
Snowy-throated Kingbird Tyrannus niveigularis
Gray-breasted Martin Progne chalybea Seen between Batan Grande and Chiclayo
Tumbes Swallow Tachycineta stolzmanni Endemic Photographed
Fasciated Wren Campylorhynchus fasciatus Heard
Superciliated Wren Thryothorus superciliaris Photographed
Long-tailed Mockingbird Mimus longicaudatus
White-tailed Jay Cyanocorax mystacalis Heard
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola
Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus
Band-tailed Sierra-Finch Phrygilus alaudinus Photographed
Cinereous Finch Piezorhina cinerea Endemic Photographed
Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola
Streaked Saltator Saltator striatipectus
Scrub Blackbird Dives warszewiczi
White-edged Oriole Icterus graceannae


7. Quebrada Frejolillo, near Limon, Lambayeque      21st-22nd March, 2006

   This is a safer site for the White-winged Guans. I coordinated my visit with Asociacion Cracidae Peru and was lucky enough to get a lift to Limon as they had business there. In Limon I got a local guide (Lino) to show me up to the site less than an hour's walk away. We followed the trail up towards the valley then along the dry riverbed. After a big cliff on the left, there was a left turning that takes you up to the site. It is a raised piece of land between 2 dry streams. Previously it was used to grow maize and other crops but it seems to be being left to regenerate now. I stayed the night there and heard several owls and potoos at night. The guans were relatively easy to see despite it being the most difficult time of year due to all the leaves on the trees. I saw one bird perched in a tree on the way up around 8am, a pair in the late afternoon, and a few pairs early the next morning. The guans rustle their wings before first light and also call quite a bit between 6-7am. They are silent for most of the day after that but get a bit vocal again in the afternoon. Other good birds seen in this area were Ochre-bellied Dove, Black-and-white Seedeater (very common and vocal), Pale-browed Tinamou, White-headed Brush-Finch, Black-and-white Becard and King Vulture. It seems that a truck goes to Olmos some or most days leaving at 1 or 2 in the afternoon. It is possible to catch a ride in this for 5s. Unfortunately most of it's cargo is wood from mesquite trees in the area.

I saw 57 species including 5 lifers

Pale-browed Tinamou Crypturellus transfasciatus Near-threatened
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
King Vulture Sarcoramphus papa Photographed
Red-backed Hawk Buteo polyosoma
White-winged Guan Penelope albipennis Endemic Critically endangered Photographed
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Introduced species
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata
Pacific Dove Zenaida meloda
Croaking Ground-Dove Columbina cruziana
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi
Ochre-bellied Dove Leptotila ochraceiventris Vulnerable Photographed
Red-masked Parakeet Aratinga erythrogenys Near-threatened
Pacific Parrotlet Forpus coelestis
Groove-billed Ani Crotophaga sulcirostris
West Peruvian Screech-Owl Megascops roboratus Heard
Peruvian Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium peruanum Heard Recorded
Common Potoo Nyctibius griseus Heard
Pauraque Nyctidromus albicollis Heard
Scrub Nightjar Caprimulgus anthonyi Possibly seen
Amazilia Hummingbird Amazilia amazilia
Black-tailed Trogon Trogon melanurus Heard
Blue-crowned Motmot Momotus momota Possibly heard
Scarlet-backed Woodpecker Veniliornis callonotus
Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus
Guayaquil Woodpecker Campephilus gayaquilensis Near-threatened Possibly seen
Pale-legged Hornero Furnarius leucopus
Collared Antshrike Sakesphorus bernardi Photographed
Elegant Crescent-chest Melanopareia elegans Heard
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet Camptostoma obsoletum
Mouse-colored Tyrannulet Phaeomyias murina
Tawny-crowned Pygmy-Tyrant Euscarthmus meloryphus
Vermilion Flycatcher Pyrocephalus rubinus
Short-tailed Field-Tyrant Muscigralla brevicauda
Sooty-crowned Flycatcher Myiarchus phaeocephalus
Baird's Flycatcher Myiodynastes bairdii
Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculatus
Black-and-white Becard Pachyramphus albogriseus
Chestnut-collared Swallow Petrochelidon rufocollaris
Speckle-breasted Wren Thryothorus sclateri
Superciliated Wren Thryothorus superciliaris
Long-tailed Mockingbird Mimus longicaudatus
Plumbeous-backed Thrush Turdus reevei Recorded
White-tailed Jay Cyanocorax mystacalis
Masked Yellowthroat Geothlypis aequinoctialis
Black-and-white Tanager Conothraupis speculigera Near-threatened Recorded
Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus
Thick-billed Euphonia Euphonia laniirostris
Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina Seen near Limon
Parrot-billed Seedeater Sporophila peruviana
Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola
White-headed Brush-Finch Atlapetes albiceps Photographed
Tumbes Sparrow Aimophila stolzmanni
Golden-bellied Grosbeak Pheucticus chrysogaster
Peruvian Meadowlark Sturnella bellicosa
Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis
White-edged Oriole Icterus graceannae


8. Sinsicap, La Libertad       23rd-24th March, 2006

   Sinsicap is easily reached by public transport from Lima. Buses leave from Horizonte bus company on Vallejo and America Sur at 5:45am and at about 2pm. The ride is about 2 and a half hours and cost me 12 soles (overcharged) on the way there and just 6 soles on the way back. It is a small town but Elmer, the owner of 'Mi Rosita' and 'Sinsicapino' restaurants, has a very basic room to rent (10 soles per person) and can provide meals. Bring a sleeping bag. The road above (Red-crested Cotinga, Curve-billed Tinamou and Giant Hummingbird) and below town can be birded but by far the best area is that described by Valqui's book for the endangered Russet-bellied Spinetail. From town, take the road back towards Trujillo, over the bridge and pass a couple of buildings on your right and some smelly chicken coups to your left. After that there is a big, white, concrete sign on the right with 'Bienvenida' written on one side and 'Feliz Viaje' on the other. At that point, there is a good path going up the hill to the left. After a couple of minutes there is a fork. Go to the right and follow the path to the top of the hill where there is a small shrine. The path continues downhill then flattens out and after 10-15 minutes you get to a view point over the valley to your left. The path continues on along the ridge but turn left here, down the hill. Soon there will be a house on your right then some eucalyptus trees. After about 10 minutes you get to a point where the path goes round a small valley. This is the best spot I found for the Russet-bellied Spinetail which seemed to me to be common here and nowhere else. I also saw Bronze-tailed Comet here. The path down from the top was excellent for other hummers including Sparkling Violet-ear, Purple-collared Woodstar and the new race of Speckled Hummingbird. 5 minutes further on is a rushing stream and a steap-sided gorge which is definately worth exploring. Green-tailed Trainbearer, Rainbow Starfrontlet, Black-necked Woodpecker and Curve-billed Tinamou were seen near here. Bay-crowned Brush-Finch was common in the whole area.

I saw 35 species including 6 lifers

Curve-billed Tinamou Nothoprocta curvirostris Possibly seen
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
American Kestrel Falco sparverius Photographed
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi Heard
Peruvian Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium peruanum Heard
White-tipped Swift Aeronautes montivagus
Sparkling Violet-ear Colibri coruscans Photographed
Speckled Hummingbird Adelomyia melanogenys
Rainbow Starfrontlet Coeligena iris
Giant Hummingbird Patagona gigas
Green-tailed Trainbearer Lesbia nuna
Bronze-tailed Comet Polyonymus caroli Endemic Possibly seen
Purple-collared Woodstar Myrtis fanny Photographed
Black-necked Woodpecker Colaptes atricollis Endemic Photographed
Russet-bellied Spinetail Synallaxis zimmeri Endemic Endangered
Elegant Crescent-chest Melanopareia elegans Heard
Red-crested Cotinga Ampelion rubrocristata Photographed
White-crested Elaenia Elaenia albiceps
Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant Anairetes flavirostris
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Fasciated Wren Campylorhynchus fasciatus
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Great Thrush Turdus fuscater
Slate-throated Redstart Myioborus miniatus
Hepatic Tanager Piranga flava
Blue-and-yellow Tanager Thraupis bonariensis
Mourning Sierra-Finch Phrygilus fruticeti Photographed
Band-tailed Seedeater Catamenia analis
Bay-crowned Brush-Finch Atlapetes seebohmi Photographed
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Golden-bellied Grosbeak Pheucticus chrysogaster
Scrub Blackbird Dives warszewiczi
Hooded Siskin Carduelis magellanica


9. Pueblo Libre, Ancash       25th March, 2006

   Pueblo Libre is a spot for the 'Ancash' Pale-tailed Spinetail. The directions in Valqui are quite sufficient to find it. I stayed in Yungay where there are several hostals and restaurants. I stayed in Hostal Yungay (15s). Colectivos pass the plaza for Caraz 12km away. After 7.5km is the turn off for Pueblo Libre at a place called Puente Grande (2s). Cross the bridge and check the scrub on the right side straight afterwards. I saw Giant Hummingbird and Golden-billed Saltator here. From there it is 2km along the road to the town of Pueblo Libre through agricultural land with Blue-black Grassquit, Drab Seedeater and White-collared Swift. The road winds up through the town and a short distance after the very small plaza (Hooded Siskin and Greenish Yellow-Finch) there is a gravel road to the right. Valqui says go 2.5km along this road to the best spot for the canastero but I found them in scrub on a hillside in a small, dry valley less than 1km along. The road continues through dry scrub with some areas of cactus over a river. This area had Band-tailed Seedeater, Band-tailed Sierra-Finch and Collared Warbling-Finch.

I saw 31 species including 3 lifers

Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Introduced species Seen in Yungay
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata
Croaking Ground-Dove Columbina cruziana Photographed
Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia Possibly heard
White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris
Sparkling Violet-ear Colibri coruscans
Spot-throated Hummingbird Leucippus taczanowskii Endemic Photographed
Giant Hummingbird Patagona gigas Photographed
Purple-collared Woodstar Myrtis fanny
Pale-tailed Canastero Asthenes huancavelicae Endemic Vulnerable
White-crested Elaenia Elaenia albiceps
Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant Anairetes flavirostris
Tawny-crowned Pygmy-Tyrant Euscarthmus meloryphus Possibly seen
Vermilion Flycatcher Pyrocephalus rubinus
White-browed Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca leucophrys
House Wren Troglodytes aedon Photographed
Chiguanco Thrush Turdus chiguanco Photographed
Cinereous Conebill Conirostrum cinereum
Blue-and-yellow Tanager Thraupis bonariensis Possibly seen
Band-tailed Sierra-Finch Phrygilus alaudinus
Collared Warbling-Finch Poospiza hispaniolensis
Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina Photographed
Drab Seedeater Sporophila simplex
Band-tailed Seedeater Catamenia analis
Greenish Yellow-Finch Sicalis olivascens
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Golden-billed Saltator Saltator aurantiirostris
Peruvian Meadowlark Sturnella bellicosa
Scrub Blackbird Dives warszewiczi
Hooded Siskin Carduelis magellanica Photographed


10. Lagunas Llanganuco, Huascaran NP, Ancash       26th-27th March, 2006

   This stunning area of 2 emerald green lakes is within the Huascaran National Park and easily accessed from Yungay. Combis leave from opposite the 'Comisaria' in Yungay at 8am but colectivos may leave earlier if there are passengers (8s). You could also hire a taxi there to take you up earlier. You'll have lots of offers. You must pay the entrance fee (5s) for a day or for staying in the park (65s). The latter seems the same for what ever period of time. There are several spots you can bird in the park. I got dropped off at the 1st lake (Laguna Chinancocha) where there is a trail (Sendero Chinancocha) that goes along the edge of the lake through stunning Polylepis forest and loops up a hill and back to the start. This trail had Andean Flicker, Baron's Spinetail, Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant and Giant Conebill. Andean Duck, Puna Teal and Black-crowned Night-Heron were seen on or by the lake. The Maria Josefa trail leads from the same spot (that has some camping facilities) down the valley and rejoins the road. This trail had Rufous-eared Brush-Finch, Tit-like Dacnis, Plain-tailed Warbling-Finch, Citrine Warbler and Giant Hummingbird. From the point it rejoins to the guard post had Red-crested Cotinga, Black Metaltail, Black-throated Flowerpiercer and Jelski's Chat Tyrant. I couldn't find the supposed trail accross from the post but explored a bit and found Ancash Tapaculo. I also saw Red-backed Hawk and Andean Swift flying over. On the way to Abra Portachelo, I saw Andean Goose, Andean Coot and Thick-billed Siskin around the second lake.

I saw 40 species including 9 lifers

Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax
Andean Goose Chloephaga melanoptera
Crested Duck Anas specularioides
Puna Teal Anas puna Photographed
Andean Duck Oxyura ferruginea Photographed
Red-backed Hawk Buteo polyosoma Photographed
American Kestrel Falco sparverius Photographed
Slate-colored Coot Fulica ardesiaca
Andean Swift Aeronautes andecolus
Sparkling Violet-ear Colibri coruscans
Shining Sunbeam Aglaeactis cupripennis
Giant Hummingbird Patagona gigas
Black Metaltail Metallura phoebe Endemic Photographed
Andean Flicker Colaptes rupicola
Bar-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes fuscus Photographed
Baron's Spinetail Cranioleuca baroni Endemic Photographed
Canyon Canastero Asthenes pudibunda Endemic
Stripe-headed Antpitta Grallaria andicola Possibly heard
Ancash Tapaculo Scytalopus affinis Endemic
Red-crested Cotinga Ampelion rubrocristata Photographed
Jelski's Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca jelskii Possibly seen
Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca rufipectoralis Photographed
Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant Agriornis montana
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca Seen between Yungay and Llanganuco
Brown-bellied Swallow Notiochelidon murina
Chiguanco Thrush Turdus chiguanco
Great Thrush Turdus fuscater Photographed
Citrine Warbler Basileuterus luteoviridis
Cinereous Conebill Conirostrum cinereum
Giant Conebill Oreomanes fraseri Near-threatened Photographed
Tit-like Dacnis Xenodacnis parina Photographed Recorded
Peruvian Sierra-Finch Phrygilus punensis Photographed
Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch Phrygilus plebejus Photographed
Plain-tailed Warbling-Finch Poospiza alticola Endemic Endangered
Plain-colored Seedeater Catamenia inornata Photographed
Black-throated Flowerpiercer Diglossa brunneiventris
Greenish Yellow-Finch Sicalis olivascens Photographed
Rufous-eared Brush-Finch Atlapetes rufigenis Endemic Photographed
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis Photographed
Thick-billed Siskin Carduelis crassirostris


11. Abra Portachualo, Huascaran NP, Ancash       27th March, 2006

   This site is also within the Huascaran National Park but takes longer to get to. Take a combi from Yungay towards Yanama which leave round the corner from the Llanganuco ones at 7:30. After the 2nd lake, the road winds up a very steep slope to the pass (Abra Portachuela) at (roughly) km 45 and down the other side. Following the directions in Valqui, I got off at 10km further down near the first patches of Polylepis. Before this, the road passes 3 small lakes and the paramo here had Plain-crowned Ground-Tyrant, Many-striped Canastero and Plain-breasted Earthcreeper. At km55, cut accross the grass towards a valley to your right (facing downhill). You will see the lush Polylepis in the valley as you get closer. I walked up the valley along the edge of the forest scanning the tops of the trees. I found White-cheeked Cotinga fairly easily by checking bunches of red infloresces where it seemed to be feeding on berries. Ash-breasted Tit-Tyrant was also found easily in this spot. Back at the road, walk another 2km down the road to km57 and check the scrub on the steep bank to your right (next to the road). This was a good spot for Plain-tailed Warbling-Finch. Tit-like Dacnis was also common here. The journey took almost 2 and a half hours in a 'combi' arriving at 10:30. The same vehicle goes back at 2:30-3pm and costs 10s each way. This only leaves 4 hours to look around but should be sufficient.

I saw 22 species including 3 lifers

Crested Duck Anas specularioides
Shining Sunbeam Aglaeactis cupripennis Photographed
Black Metaltail Metallura phoebe Endemic
Andean Flicker Colaptes rupicola Photographed
Plain-breasted Earthcreeper Upucerthia jelskii Photographed
Bar-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes fuscus
White-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes atacamensis Possibly seen
Many-striped Canastero Asthenes flammulata
White-cheeked Cotinga Zaratornis stresemanni Endemic Vulnerable Photographed
Ash-breasted Tit-Tyrant Anairetes alpinus Endangered Photographed
D'Orbigny's Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca oenanthoides
Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca rufipectoralis
Plain-capped Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola alpinus
Brown-bellied Swallow Notiochelidon murina
Great Thrush Turdus fuscater
Tit-like Dacnis Xenodacnis parina Photographed
Plumbeous Sierra-Finch Phrygilus unicolor Photographed
Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch Phrygilus plebejus
Plain-tailed Warbling-Finch Poospiza alticola Endemic Endangered Photographed
Plain-colored Seedeater Catamenia inornata
Rufous-eared Brush-Finch Atlapetes rufigenis Endemic
Thick-billed Siskin Carduelis crassirostris


12. Ticlio Bog, Lima      29th March, 2006

   Ticlio Bog can be birded in a day trip from Lima using public transport. Valqui wrote that the Ticlio Pass was at km133 but they seem to have changed the markers and it is now at km131. This takes about 3 hours by bus from Lima but maybe quicker using a colectivo heading towards Huancayo. Buses and colectivos leave an area of Lima called 'Yerbateros'. This is apparently a very dangerous area but if you get a taxi to 'Terminal Terrestre' and get straight on a bus there should be no problem. Some buses leave from offices on Luna Pizarro but these stop in Yerbateros anyway. The fare is 15s. Colectivos leave from accross the street. An alternative to going to Yerbateros would be to catch a bus to Chosica (e.g. from Paseo Colon) and flag down a bus on the Panamericana there. Ticlio Bog is at the km129 marker before the pass on the left-hand side. Look for a point in the road where it runs next to an overhead electricity line. I saw White-bellied Cinclodes right up to the road. They seemed fairly tame and you could get quite close. I also saw Andean Lapwing, Puna Snipe, Andean Flicker and White-winged Diuca Finch here. I checked the other side of the pass but there was not too much of interest. Only Crested Duck and Streak-throated Canastero. Sierra-Finches were common at the pass. The pass is above 4800m. Take it very easy.

I saw 15 species including 1 lifer

Crested Duck Anas specularioides Photographed
Puna Hawk Buteo poecilochrous Possibly seen
Andean Lapwing Vanellus resplendens Photographed
Puna Snipe Gallinago andina
Andean Gull Larus serranus Photographed
Andean Flicker Colaptes rupicola Photographed
Bar-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes fuscus
White-bellied Cinclodes Cinclodes palliatus Endemic Vulnerable Photographed
Streak-throated Canastero Asthenes humilis
White-fronted Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola albifrons Photographed
Peruvian Sierra-Finch Phrygilus punensis
Plumbeous Sierra-Finch Phrygilus unicolor
Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch Phrygilus plebejus
White-winged Diuca-Finch Diuca speculifera Photographed
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis


13. Bosque de Zarate       2nd-4th April & 26th May, 2006

   Getting to Bosque de Zarate involves a 1 and a half hour bus ride followed by a 4-6 hour tough uphill hike. The transport up the Carretera Central is the same as for Ticlio. I took a combi to Chosica then changed to another combi towards San Mateo. There are also combis going to San Bartolome. The turn off is just before the km56 marker. On the bus look for a weighing station, then pass under an iron bridge then through a tunnel. The turning actually has a big sign saying 'Bosque de Zarate'. Walk up this hill and before crossing over a bridge to San Bartolome, you'll see another sign on the left for Bosque de Zarate. At this point turn left onto a trail and follow it up the hill. The trail has a few branches but if you stay on the most obvious one and keep going up hill, you should be OK. It maybe a good idea to hire someone from San Bartolome to show you the way up. Donkeys could also be hired.
   There are arrows and 'BZs' at various points to help you out. After about an hour's walk, you'll reach a hill top with another sign and a couple of families camping out. Follow the trail from here along the valley and after about 2 hours you take a left turn up the hill. If you continue on, it starts to go down hill and gets a bit overgrown. The trail zig-zags up and up. Eventually you should spit out onto a good path which takes you along to the forest. About 30 minutes walk along here you get to a flat spot where you can camp. Here there is a trail into the forest with a few better places to pitch a tent. Several people seem to walk along this path everyday and you can even buy cheese from them. Walking back down, I didn't turn down the way I came but carried on along the good path which passes a few settlements and goes down very steeply. It is shorter but very hard on the legs. I saw Aplomado Falcon on this path.
   My main target was the Rufous-breasted Warbling-Finch which apparently has its stronghold here. Valqui wrote it was 'not uncommon in shrubby areas before the forest'. I failed to see it on my first visit but visited again in May and found 1 bird singing at 3pm a few hundred metres before El Gato (campsite) in thorny scrub at about 2900m. It responded to playback by flying out to an exposed perch where I had excellent view. The habitat here was thorny bushes on a steep slope.

I saw 60 species including 7 lifers

Andean Tinamou Nothoprocta pentlandii
Harris's Hawk Parabuteo unicinctus Seen on the bus to San Bartolome
Broad-winged Hawk Buteo platypterus Photographed
American Kestrel Falco sparverius
Aplomado Falcon Falco femoralis
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Introduced species
Spot-winged Pigeon Patagioenas maculosa
Band-tailed Pigeon Patagioenas fasciata
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata Photographed
Pacific Dove Zenaida meloda
Croaking Ground-Dove Columbina cruziana
Bare-faced Ground-Dove Metriopelia ceciliae Photographed
Black-winged Ground-Dove Metriopelia melanoptera Photographed
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi
Koepcke's Screech-Owl Megascops koepckeae Possibly heard
Andean Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium jardinii
Sparkling Violet-ear Colibri coruscans
Giant Hummingbird Patagona gigas
Bronze-tailed Comet Polyonymus caroli Endemic
Tyrian Metaltail Metallura tyrianthina
Oasis Hummingbird Rhodopis vesper Photographed
Peruvian Sheartail Thaumastura cora Endemic
Purple-collared Woodstar Myrtis fanny Recorded
Plain-breasted Earthcreeper Upucerthia jelskii Photographed
White-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes atacamensis Photographed
Streaked Tit-Spinetail Leptasthenura striata
Canyon Canastero Asthenes pudibunda Endemic Photographed
Red-crested Cotinga Ampelion rubrocristata Photographed
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet Camptostoma obsoletum Photographed
Pied-crested Tit-Tyrant Anairetes reguloides
Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant Anairetes flavirostris Posibly seen
Tropical Pewee Contopus cinereus Photographed Recorded
Vermilion Flycatcher Pyrocephalus rubinus
White-browed Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca leucophrys
Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant Myiotheretes striaticollis
Spot-billed Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola maculirostris
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Brown-bellied Swallow Notiochelidon murina
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Long-tailed Mockingbird Mimus longicaudatus
Chiguanco Thrush Turdus chiguanco
Cinereous Conebill Conirostrum cinereum
Rufous-chested Tanager Thlypopsis ornata
Blue-and-yellow Tanager Thraupis bonariensis
Mourning Sierra-Finch Phrygilus fruticeti Photographed Recorded
Band-tailed Sierra-Finch Phrygilus alaudinus Photographed
Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch Phrygilus plebejus
Great Inca-Finch Incaspiza pulchra Endemic Photographed
Rufous-breasted Warbling-Finch Poospiza rubecula Endemic Endangered Photographed Recorded
Collared Warbling-Finch Poospiza hispaniolensis
Band-tailed Seedeater Catamenia analis Photographed
Rusty Flowerpiercer Diglossa sittoides Photographed
Black-throated Flowerpiercer Diglossa brunneiventris
Greenish Yellow-Finch Sicalis olivascens
Rusty-bellied Brush-Finch Atlapetes nationi Endemic Photographed
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Golden-billed Saltator Saltator aurantiirostris Photographed
Golden-bellied Grosbeak Pheucticus chrysogaster Photographed
Scrub Blackbird Dives warszewiczi
Hooded Siskin Carduelis magellanica


14. Huacarpay, Cuzco       11th April, 2006

   The town of Huacarpay is easily reached by public transport from Cuzco. Urcos buses leave from Av. de la Cultura accross from Hospital General and take about 45 minutes. From Huacarpay town a road leads off to the right and passes some lakes and wetlands. Follow the instructions in Valqui's guide. This area seems to have been made into a reserve and entrance may be charged in the future. The first flooded area on the left had Black-necked Stilt and Little Blue Heron plus Barn and Cliff swallows perched on the fence on the other side of the road. Further around, some shrubs with tubular yellow flowers start next to a fence. This was mentioned for Bearded Mountaineer but I saw only Green-tailed Trainbearer and possibly Subtropical Doradito. Further on, there is a turn to you right while the road continues and circles back round to Huacarpay. On this road, you pass some ruins where Ginat Hummingbird was common. Rufous-fronted Canastero can also be seen in this area. Further round there is a restaurant called Upicancha which had a garden with lots of flowers and was the only place I saw Bearded Mountaineer. The last lake before Huacarpay had Andean Duck.

I saw 44 species including 2 lifers

White-tufted Grebe Rollandia rolland
Great Egret Ardea alba
Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea
Snowy Egret Egretta thula
Puna Ibis Plegadis ridgwayi
Speckled Teal Anas flavirostris
Yellow-billed Pintail Anas georgica
Puna Teal Anas puna
Andean Duck Oxyura ferruginea
American Kestrel Falco sparverius
Aplomado Falcon Falco femoralis Seen near Cuzco
Blackish Rail Pardirallus nigricans
Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
Slate-colored Coot Fulica ardesiaca
Black-necked Stilt Himantopus mexicanus
Andean Lapwing Vanellus resplendens
Lesser Yellowlegs Tringa flavipes
Andean Gull Larus serranus
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Introduced species
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata
Bare-faced Ground-Dove Metriopelia ceciliae
Sparkling Violet-ear Colibri coruscans
Giant Hummingbird Patagona gigas
Green-tailed Trainbearer Lesbia nuna
Bearded Mountaineer Oreonympha nobilis Endemic
White-crested Elaenia Elaenia albiceps
Tufted Tit-Tyrant Anairetes parulus
Subtropical Doradito Pseudocolopteryx acutipennis
White-browed Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca leucophrys
Rufous-naped Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola rufivertex
Brown-bellied Swallow Notiochelidon murina
Cliff Swallow Petrochelidon pyrrhonota
Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica
House Wren Troglodytes aedon Heard
Chiguanco Thrush Turdus chiguanco
Cinereous Conebill Conirostrum cinereum
Mourning Sierra-Finch Phrygilus fruticeti
Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch Phrygilus plebejus
Band-tailed Seedeater Catamenia analis
Grassland Yellow-Finch Sicalis luteola
Greenish Yellow-Finch Sicalis olivascens
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Yellow-winged Blackbird Agelasticus thilius
Hooded Siskin Carduelis magellanica


15. Ollantaytambo, Cuzco       13th April, 2006

   Ollantaytambo is a popular topurist town with famous ruins. This is a good base from which to visit Machu Picchu and polylepis forest nearby. Ollantaytambo is easily reached by public transport from Cusco. There are a few direct buses including some that go to Quillabamba which probably leave from the main terminal. Easier though is to take a minibus to Urubamba and change. Urubamba buses leave from Avenida Grau near the centre of Cuzco and cost 3s. At the terminal in Urubamba, Ollantaytambo minibuses leave when full. These take just half an hour and cost 1s. There are several places to stay in Ollantaytambo. We stayed at La Choza which was 25s for a double.
   For the road towards Abra Malaga and Quillabamba, turn left when you reach the ruins. The road leads along the valley, parrallel with the train tracks and the river, then turns up into a valley after a few kms. I walked about 11km along this road to the km102 marker. The first few kms were not too interesting birdwise but had Green-and-white Hummingbird on flowering Aloe and Rust-and-yellow Tanager on a scrubby hillside on the right. Birding improves when you head up into the valley and over a bridge. Soon after the bridge, around the km98 marker in agricultural land I saw Black-backed Grosbeak, Chestnut-breasted Mountain-Finch and Black-and-white Seedeater. Between the km99 and km100 there is a trail to the right which leads down to a spot on the river where I saw White-capped Dipper and Torrent Duck. In scrub on the right of the road at the km100 marker I saw Creamy-crested Spinetail, Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant, White-throated Tyrannulet and Rust-and-yellow Tanager.

I saw 26 species including 5 lifers

Torrent Duck Merganetta armata
American Kestrel Falco sparverius
Spot-winged Pigeon Patagioenas maculosa
Band-tailed Pigeon Patagioenas fasciata
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata
Andean Swift Aeronautes andecolus
Sparkling Violet-ear Colibri coruscans
Green-and-white Hummingbird Leucippus viridicauda Endemic
Creamy-crested Spinetail Cranioleuca albicapilla Endemic
White-crested Elaenia Elaenia albiceps
White-throated Tyrannulet Mecocerculus leucophrys
Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant Anairetes flavirostris
Tufted Tit-Tyrant Anairetes parulus
White-capped Dipper Cinclus leucocephalus
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Chiguanco Thrush Turdus chiguanco
Cinereous Conebill Conirostrum cinereum
Rust-and-yellow Tanager Thlypopsis ruficeps
Blue-and-yellow Tanager Thraupis bonariensis
Chestnut-breasted Mountain-Finch Poospiza caesar Endemic
Black-and-white Seedeater Sporophila luctuosa
Band-tailed Seedeater Catamenia analis
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Golden-billed Saltator Saltator aurantiirostris
Black-backed Grosbeak Pheucticus aureoventris
Hooded Siskin Carduelis magellanica


16. Yanahuara, Cuzco       14th, 19th-20th April, 2006

   Yanahuara is easily reached in 15 mins (1s) from Ollantaytambo by minibuses heading to Urubamba. Asked to be dropped off at Quinto Paradero by a huge �Casa Andina� sign. Coming from Ollantaytambo turn left here and follow the gravel track up and you pass The luxury �Casa Andina� hotel after 7 mins walk on your left. After 15mins walk, you reach a fork in the road where you turn right. Walk 2 minutes further and turn left at a sign for �Libertador Valle Sagrado Lodge�. After about 45 minutes walk from the main road you will see a huge, bright blue water tank on your right. Walking straight from here you continue up the valley crossing the river 2-3 times. To avoid the river crossings turn left on a small path just 1 minute after the blue tank. If you have transport, you could drive to this point and start walking from here. Either get dropped off or maybe pay someone to look after you car.
   The trail is easy to follow from here and the birding gets better and better. I went up for a day trip one day from Ollantaytambo but failed to see Royal Cinclodes so went back up and camped for the night. Going up and down in a day is tough, as is carrying all your camping stuff to stay. An easier option might be to hire some indigenous people to help you or take your stuff up with mules. ECOAN may be able to help you with this. Barry Walker can arrange trips up there.
   Just after you turn left at the blue tank, there are some maize fields over a wall on the left. Here I saw Chestnut-breasted Mountain-Finch. Just after you turn left at the blue tank, there are some maize fields over a wall on the left. Here I saw Chestnut-breasted Mountain-Finch. A little further on, some forest starts where I saw Andean Parakeet, Tufted Tit-Tyrant and Red-crested Cotinga. Further up, between 3,400m and 3,600m I saw Tyrian Metaltail, Rufous-breasted and Giant Conebill. Between 3,600m and 3,800m I saw Andean Flicker, Rufous-fronted Canastero, White-browed Conebill, Creamy-crested Spinetail and White-browed Tit-Spinetail. At about 2850m the good polylepis forest starts. This takes about 2 and a half hours non-stop walking. With breaks and birding, this took me 3 and a half hours on my day trip and almost 5 carrying a heavy pack. This first good area has most or the Polylepis specialists minus Ash-breasted Tit-Tyrant and Royal Cinclodes. The former can be seen about 10-15 minutes further along after a gap between forest patches. Royal Cinclodes is very difficult and took me 3 days searching to locate.
   Further along, the trail splits. The left fork carries along the river to a flat open area with a few houses. A nice chap called Mario lives here with his family and a drunk called Claudio lives right at the end. This open area is a good base to camp but beware, it gets very cold at night. My tent was frozen in the morning. This open area has Black and Thick-billed siskins, Plumbeus and Ash-breasted sierra-finches. From the flat area you can walk up the hill to the trail. This carries on to 2 lakes. The first is fairly large and the second not much more than a boggy area. At the far end of this, there is a small but very good patch of mossy Polylepis which apparently has a pair of Royal Cinclodes. I didn�t see them but found Ash-breasted Tit-Tyrant, Peruvian Sierra-Finch and Stripe-headed Antpitta.
   Before the first lake, coming up from the open valley, there is a decent-sized Polylepis patch on your right. Apparently this has 3 pairs of Royal Cinclodes. I didn�t find any. Towards the end of this patch, on the right side of the trail is a large boulder. Behind this leads a trail up into the forest. This trail eventually reaches a clearing and crosses a stream. After this, there is a trail leading up on the right hand side of the stream. This is very steep and the altitude here about 4200m making it a tough climb. It eventually reaches another level which looks like an amphitheatre. At the back on the left you will see a small patch of excellent mossy Polylepis. This has 1-2 pairs of Royal Cinclodes. It is however under intense cutting pressure. The day I was there, 3 indigenous people from Huacahuasi were there with 25 llamas loaded down with wood.

I saw 51 species including 6 lifers

Speckled Teal Anas flavirostris
Crested Duck Anas specularioides
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Introduced species
Spot-winged Pigeon Patagioenas maculosa
Band-tailed Pigeon Patagioenas fasciata
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata
Andean Parakeet Bolborhynchus orbygnesius
White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris
Sparkling Violet-ear Colibri coruscans
Green-and-white Hummingbird Leucippus viridicauda Endemic
White-tufted Sunbeam Aglaeactis castelnaudii Endemic
Giant Hummingbird Patagona gigas
Tyrian Metaltail Metallura tyrianthina
Blue-mantled Thornbill Chalcostigma stanleyi
Andean Flicker Colaptes rupicola
Bar-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes fuscus
Royal Cinclodes Cinclodes aricomae Critically endangered
White-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes atacamensis
White-browed Tit-Spinetail Leptasthenura xenothorax Endemic Endangered
Tawny Tit-Spinetail Leptasthenura yanacensis Near-threatened
Creamy-crested Spinetail Cranioleuca albicapilla Endemic
Puna Thistletail Schizoeaca helleri Endemic
Rusty-fronted Canastero Asthenes ottonis Endemic
Streak-throated Canastero Asthenes humilis
Stripe-headed Antpitta Grallaria andicola
Red-crested Cotinga Ampelion rubrocristata
White-crested Elaenia Elaenia albiceps
Ash-breasted Tit-Tyrant Anairetes alpinus Endangered
Tufted Tit-Tyrant Anairetes parulus
Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca rufipectoralis
Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca fumicolor
Red-rumped Bush-Tyrant Cnemarchus erythropygius
White-fronted Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola albifrons Possibly seen
Brown-bellied Swallow Notiochelidon murina
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Chiguanco Thrush Turdus chiguanco
Great Thrush Turdus fuscater
Cinereous Conebill Conirostrum cinereum
White-browed Conebill Conirostrum ferrugineiventre
Giant Conebill Oreomanes fraseri Near-threatened
Blue-and-yellow Tanager Thraupis bonariensis
Peruvian Sierra-Finch Phrygilus punensis
Plumbeous Sierra-Finch Phrygilus unicolor
Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch Phrygilus plebejus
Chestnut-breasted Mountain-Finch Poospiza caesar Endemic
Band-tailed Seedeater Catamenia analis
Black-throated Flowerpiercer Diglossa brunneiventris
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Golden-billed Saltator Saltator aurantiirostris
Thick-billed Siskin Carduelis crassirostris
Black Siskin Carduelis atrata


17. Abra Malaga, near Ollantaytambo, Cuzco      April, 2006

   Abra Malaga is about 45km past Ollantaytambo on the way to Quillabamba. It can be done in a day trip from Ollantaytambo (or even Cuzco!) using public transport but you arrive late and the bus back is a bit of a worry. The only buses up there are from Cuzco and several arrive in Ollantaytambo at about 10am. The is paved and in good condition most of the way but there were road works at svereal points. It took an hour and a half to get to the Abra which is at about 4200m altitude. Following directions in Valqui, walk back down the road towards Ollantaytambo and after a few hundred metres start walking up the hill to the right. There peaks very high up with a few trees visable. Aim to a lower part of the ridge to the right. It isn't too far but you should take it very slower with the altitude. On this side of the ridge I saw Mountain Caracara and White-collared Swift. Once at the top of the ridge look for a trail leading down diagonally to the right into the valley. It was misty when I was there but on a clear day, you should be able to see Polylepis down in the valley. This trail winds down into the valley and finally passes through scattered Polylepis. Walk through this area and look for areas with moss. A good place to see Royal Cinclodes is apparently by a natural, verticle wall. Although there are supposedly 3 pairs of Royal Cinclodes in this area, they are difficult to see and I failed to see the species. In this area I saw Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant and Red-rumped Bush-Tyrant.
   Continue down to the right and at the bottom of the valley beneath a big cliff is a very birdy polylepis patch. This had Ash-breasted Tit-Tyrant, Puna Thistletail and Puna Tapaculo. White-browed Tit-Spinetail was common in any area with Polylepis. From here you can walk down the valley along the river. This area had Ash-breasted & Plumbeus sierra-finches and Plain-capped Ground-Tyrant. The valley has a few houses and the trail spits back out onto the main road 15km further down than the Abra. The final section of the trail has some good scrub where I saw Tufted Tit-Tyrant and Andean Parakeet.
   A bus back to Ollantaytambo and Cuzco supposedly passes here at 5pm but didn't come until after 6 when it was starting to get dark and we were starting to get very worried. A safer bet might be to get a taxi to come and pick you up.

I saw 24 species including 2 lifers

Speckled Teal Anas flavirostris
Puna Hawk Buteo poecilochrous
Mountain Caracara Phalcoboenus megalopterus
Band-tailed Pigeon Patagioenas fasciata Seen on the way to Abra Malaga
Andean Parakeet Bolborhynchus orbygnesius
White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris
Blue-mantled Thornbill Chalcostigma stanleyi
Bar-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes fuscus
White-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes atacamensis
White-browed Tit-Spinetail Leptasthenura xenothorax Endemic Endangered
Puna Thistletail Schizoeaca helleri Endemic Possibly seen
Puna Tapaculo Scytalopus simonsi
Ash-breasted Tit-Tyrant Anairetes alpinus Endangered
Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca fumicolor
Red-rumped Bush-Tyrant Cnemarchus erythropygius
Plain-capped Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola alpinus
Brown-bellied Swallow Notiochelidon murina
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Great Thrush Turdus fuscater
Peruvian Sierra-Finch Phrygilus punensis
Plumbeous Sierra-Finch Phrygilus unicolor
Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch Phrygilus plebejus
Black-throated Flowerpiercer Diglossa brunneiventris
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis


18. Machu Picchu, Aguas Calientes, Cuzco       16th April, 2006

   This is probably the most visited tourist site in Peru. The ruins are quite spectacular but ridiculously overpriced. They are accessed from the town of Aguas Calientes which is reached by train from Cuzco or Ollantaytambo. It can be done on a day trip from Cuzco, privately or as part of a tour, but the cheapest way is to buy tickets yourself in Ollantaytambo. The cheapest return fare for the 2 hour journey is a steep US$44. This train leaves Ollantaytambo at 8pm and the return train leaves Aguas Calientes at 5:45am meaning you have to spend at least 2 nights here. The cheapest option would be to camp down by the river but there is plenty of cheap accommodation. We stayed at a hotel by the station paying 30s for a double. The entrance ticket to the ruins is a further 80s (40s for students with a photo ID) which must be bought at the office in Aguas Calientes. The final nail in the coffin is an absurd US$12 return bus fare up to the ruins (less than 20 minutes). We walked the 6km steep trail up in 1 hour and 10 mins but would normally take 1 and a half to 2 hrs. Another option would be to take the bus up and walk back down.
   We set off in the dark to get to the ruins early. The first bus up leaves at about 5:30am. Many bird were calling on our walk up including Sickle-winged Guan. Interesting birds around the ruins were Inca Wren (common and very vocal in the early morning in scrub and bamboo), White-tipped Swift (flying over the ruins) and Black-and-blue Tanager. At the top of the ruins there is a trail leading to the Inca Bridge. This was very birdy and I saw White-eared Solitaire, Green Violetear, Green-and-white Hummingbird, Tufted Tit-Tyrant and Azara�s Spinetail plus coatis.
   On the walk back down to Aguas Calientes I saw Blue-necked and Saffron-crowned tanagers, Masked Fruit-eater, Sclater�s Tyrannulet, Pale-legged Warbler and Mitred Parakeet. White-capped Dipper on rocks in the river and Black Phoebe nearby. There is a famous Andean Cock-of-the-Rock lek along the train tracks a few hundred metres from the old Puente Ruinas station. From the road, walk up the steps or access road and walk along the tracks o where they turn towards the right. Here there is a metal sign reading �113�. After this there are steep, natural walls and shady forest. Here is a good place to see the birds. I heard them and saw them briefly in flight in the evening. Early morning would probably be a better time to look for them. Andean Solitaire was also heard calling from here. On the train ride back to Ollantaytambo, I saw Torrent Duck on a river.

I saw 36 species including 7 lifers

Torrent Duck Merganetta armata Seen from the train to Aguas Calientes
American Kestrel Falco sparverius
Sickle-winged Guan Chamaepetes goudotii
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Introduced species
Mitred Parakeet Aratinga mitrata
White-tipped Swift Aeronautes montivagus
Green Violet-ear Colibri thalassinus
Green-and-white Hummingbird Leucippus viridicauda Endemic
Andean Flicker Colaptes rupicola
Azara's Spinetail Synallaxis azarae
Masked Fruiteater Pipreola pulchra Endemic
Andean Cock-of-the-rock Rupicola peruviana
Sclater's Tyrannulet Phyllomyias sclateri
White-banded Tyrannulet Mecocerculus stictopterus
Tufted Tit-Tyrant Anairetes parulus
Black Phoebe Sayornis nigricans
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
White-capped Dipper Cinclus leucocephalus
Inca Wren Thryothorus eisenmanni Endemic
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Andean Solitaire Myadestes ralloides Heard
White-eared Solitaire Entomodestes leucotis
Tropical Parula Parula pitiayumi
Slate-throated Redstart Myioborus miniatus
Pale-legged Warbler Basileuterus signatus
Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus
Blue-capped Tanager Thraupis cyanocephala
Saffron-crowned Tanager Tangara xanthocephala
Blue-necked Tanager Tangara cyanicollis
Blue-and-black Tanager Tangara vassorii
Dull-colored Grassquit Tiaris obscura
Tricolored Brush-Finch Atlapetes tricolor
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Golden-billed Saltator Saltator aurantiirostris
Hooded Siskin Carduelis magellanica


19. Bosque Ampay, Apurimac       23rd-24th April, 2006

   Bosque de Ampay is located near the large town of Abancay in the state of Apurimac, 4-5 hours from Cuzco by regular bus. Abancay has many places to stay eat and internet. Taxis will take you up to the 'Sanctuario' for 10s although the road is bad. Alternatively you can take any minibus heading up towards Cuzco and get out at the turn-off. This used to be an arch but it seems to have fallen in and is now a non-descript left turn a a sharp right bend 5-10 minutes up from the centre. From the turn-off it is about a 4km walk up hill to the 'Estacion Ecologico'. Part of the way up there is a confusing junction with 3 options. Take the middle one that goes up the highest. You may need to register at the building although there was nobody there but we got collared on the way down and had to pay an unofficial 5s litter picking charge.
   Birding is good up from the building. Above here I saw Cinnamon Flycatcher, Blue-and-yellow & Rust-and-yellow tanagers, Mountain Velvetbreast, Black-throated Flowerpiercer and Chestnut-breasted Mountain-Finch. Higher up there is a fork in the trail with the left one going to the small lake (Angasqocha) just 5 minutes away, and the right going up to the large upper lake (Uspaqocha), a further 2 hour's walk. At the fork I saw Apurimac & Creamy-crested Spinetail plus White-banded Tyrannulet. Following the left trail past the small lake, you get to a clearing where noisy kids play football at the weekend. This would make a good place to camp. This clearing is good for hummingbirds and I saw Violet-fronted Starfrontlet here. From here there are some small trails into the forest. I found one that passed through good Podocarpus forest up to a house. I had great views of Undulated Antpitta here. Back at the fork, there was good birding up the other trail towards the upper lake. On the first part of this trail I saw Rufous-fronted Canastero in a clearing, Apurimac Spinetail, Pearled Treerunner and White-tufted Sunbeam. Higher up in more scrubby areas I saw Shining Sunbeam, Puna Hawk (both dark and light phases), Andean Parakeet, Andean Flicker and White-browed Chat-Tyrant. Up near the lake I saw Andean Goose, Bar-winged Cinclodes, Black-billed Shrike Tyrant and several species of sierra-finch.

I saw 45 species including 6 lifers

Andean Goose Chloephaga melanoptera
Plain-breasted Hawk Accipiter ventralis Possibly seen
Red-backed Hawk Buteo polyosoma
American Kestrel Falco sparverius
Band-tailed Pigeon Patagioenas fasciata Possibly seen
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata
Mitred Parakeet Aratinga mitrata
Andean Parakeet Bolborhynchus orbygnesius
White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris Possibly seen
Sparkling Violet-ear Colibri coruscans
White-bellied Hummingbird Leucippus chionogaster
Shining Sunbeam Aglaeactis cupripennis
Violet-throated Starfrontlet Coeligena violifer
Tyrian Metaltail Metallura tyrianthina
Scaled Metaltail Metallura aeneocauda Possibly seen
Blue-mantled Thornbill Chalcostigma stanleyi
Bar-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes fuscus
Apurimac Spinetail Synallaxis courseni Endemic Vulnerable
Creamy-crested Spinetail Cranioleuca albicapilla Endemic
Rusty-fronted Canastero Asthenes ottonis Endemic Possibly seen
Pearled Treerunner Margarornis squamiger
Undulated Antpitta Grallaria squamigera
Red-crested Cotinga Ampelion rubrocristata
White-crested Elaenia Elaenia albiceps
Cinnamon Flycatcher Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea
Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca rufipectoralis
White-browed Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca leucophrys
Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant Agriornis montana Possibly seen
White-winged Black-Tyrant Knipolegus aterrimus
House Wren Troglodytes aedon Heard
Chiguanco Thrush Turdus chiguanco
Great Thrush Turdus fuscater
Spectacled Redstart Myioborus melanocephalus
Cinereous Conebill Conirostrum cinereum
Rust-and-yellow Tanager Thlypopsis ruficeps
Blue-and-yellow Tanager Thraupis bonariensis
Peruvian Sierra-Finch Phrygilus punensis
Plumbeous Sierra-Finch Phrygilus unicolor
Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch Phrygilus plebejus
Chestnut-breasted Mountain-Finch Poospiza caesar Endemic
Black-throated Flowerpiercer Diglossa brunneiventris
Apurimac Brush-Finch Atlapetes forbesi Endemic
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Golden-billed Saltator Saltator aurantiirostris
Hooded Siskin Carduelis magellanica


Hosted by www.Geocities.ws

20. Manu Road (Acjanaco to San Pedro plus Dos Cinquenta)       April, 2006

   The Manu Road can be reached from Cuzco by bus. The 'Gallito de las Rocas' company has buses to Pilcopata Monday, Wednesday and Friday leaving their office on Angamos at 8:30am (15 soles). I got off this bus at Acjanaco (3487m) where it arrived at 2:30pm. At this altitude there is some elfin forest but when I was there it was very foggy and I saw very few birds. If you're interested in birding this area, it might be worth spending the night here. We walked down to the first small settlement of Esperanza (2,850m) but it took us 4 hours with birding and we arrived after dark. There is a sign for Esperanza on the right side and a wooden hut on the left. After this there is a path up to the left to a flat, grassy area which makes a good place to camp. The area below here had excellent birding in the morning.
   On our second day we walked down, past Pillahuata (2,600m), to a beautiful area of lush forest. After a steep bend in the road where a stream comes down, there is a waterfall on the left. Just before a stream runs accross the road, there is a little path leading right to a flat area hidden from the road just big enough to pitch a tent (2,400m). We spent our second night here.
   On the third day we walked down, past a house a Rocotal (where you could also camp) to the abandoned buildings at Suiza (about 2,100m). Apparently there used to be a little shop here but there were no people there when we arrived. There is flat ground behind the buildings that makes a good place to camp and a nearby stream with good water. At the last stream before Suiza we saw Wooly Monkeys.
   Our last day we walked from Suiza to Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge (1600m). This was the best day's birding and had some beautiful species including Andean Cock-of-the-Rock which was common between Manu Cloud Forest Lodge (1800m) and Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge. There was also a trail from the main building at the latter lodge that ran down towards the river. Here I heard was good for Black Tinamou but I didn't see it.
   We took a bus to Atalaya the next day where we stayed the night and boarded the boat to Manu Wildlife Centre. A few birds can be seen around Atalaya including macaws accross the river. Coming back from Manu Wildlife Centre we got a boat to 'Dos Cincuenta' and from there we came back by land. There is a guard station there called Punto Vigilancia (PV) Santa Cruz where park guards stay. It should be possible to stay here. A bus passes here in the mid morning, daily(?) from Shintuya to Salvacion (where there is accomodation and internet). This may continue onto Pilcopata on Mon/Wed/Fri when bus go to Cuzco. The area from PV Santa Cruz to Pilcopata has some nice secondary forest and lots of birds and would be worth exploring more thouroughly. Trucks also here going to Pilcopata and Cuzco and we took one of these logging trucks back to Cuzco.

I saw 169 species including 37 lifers

Little Tinamou Crypturellus soui Possibly seen 500m
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis 540m
Striated Heron Butorides striata 540m
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura 790m
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris 500-1200m
Speckled Chachalaca Ortalis guttata 500m
Andean Guan Penelope montagnii Possibly heard at 2850m
Collared Plover Charadrius collaris 540m
Spotted Sandpiper Actitis macularia 540m
Band-tailed Pigeon Patagioenas fasciata 2640m
Plumbeous Pigeon Patagioenas plumbea 1710m
Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti 500m
Gray-fronted Dove Leptotila rufaxilla Heard at 500m
Blue-and-yellow Macaw Ara ararauna 540m
Scarlet Macaw Ara macao 540m
Red-and-green Macaw Ara chloroptera 540m
Chestnut-fronted Macaw Ara severa 500-1110m
White-eyed Parakeet Aratinga leucophthalmus 500m
Blue-headed Parrot Pionus menstruus 500m
Speckle-faced Parrot Pionus tumultuosus 1949-2530m Photographed Recorded
Yellow-crowned Parrot Amazona ochrocephala 500m
Little Cuckoo Piaya minuta 500m Photographed
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani 500-970m
Tropical Screech-Owl Megascops choliba Heard at 500m & 540m
Andean Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium jardinii Possibly heard at 2120m
Sand-colored Nighthawk Chordeiles rupestris 540m
Chestnut-collared Swift Streptoprocne rutila Possibly seen at 1630m
Green Hermit Phaethornis guy 1600m
Gray-breasted Sabrewing Campylopterus largipennis 500m
Green Violet-ear Colibri thalassinus 2340-2690m Recorded
Sparkling Violet-ear Colibri coruscans 3400m Recorded
Wire-crested Thorntail Popelairia popelairii 1600m
Fork-tailed Woodnymph Thalurania furcata 500m
Golden-tailed Sapphire Chrysuronia oenone 500m
Speckled Hummingbird Adelomyia melanogenys 1600-2380m
Violet-fronted Brilliant Heliodoxa leadbeateri 1600m
Gould's Inca Coeligena inca 2350-2420m
Violet-throated Starfrontlet Coeligena violifer 3400m
Amethyst-throated Sunangel Heliangelus amethysticollis 2750m
Buff-thighed Puffleg Haplophaedia assimilis 2120m Photographed Recorded
Booted Racket-tail Ocreatus underwoodii 1600-2120m
Tyrian Metaltail Metallura tyrianthina 2410-3450m
Scaled Metaltail Metallura aeneocauda Possibly seen at 2850m
Long-tailed Sylph Aglaiocercus kingi 2060m
White-bellied Woodstar Chaetocercus mulsant 2120m
Masked Trogon Trogon personatus 2420-2730m Photographed Recorded
Black-tailed Trogon Trogon melanurus 500m Recorded
Green Kingfisher Chloroceryle americana 540m
Highland Motmot Momotus aequatorialis 1580-1710m
Versicolored Barbet Eubucco versicolor Possibly seen at 2130m
Blue-banded Toucanet Aulacorhynchus coeruleicinctis 2470m Photographed Recorded
Fine-barred Piculet Picumnus subtilis Endemic 540m
Crimson-mantled Woodpecker Piculus rivolii 2370m
Spot-breasted Woodpecker Colaptes punctigula 500m
Azara's Spinetail Synallaxis azarae 1880-2850m
Plain-crowned Spinetail Synallaxis gujanensis Heard at 500m
Pearled Treerunner Margarornis squamiger 2420-2850m
Montane Foliage-gleaner Anabacerthia striaticollis 1880m
Streaked Tuftedcheek Pseudocolaptes boissonneautii 2220-2750m
Striped Treehunter Thripadectes holostictus Possibly seen at 2130m
Montane Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes lacrymiger 2050-2440m
Great Antshrike Taraba major 500m Recorded
White-backed Fire-eye Pyriglena leuconota 1820-1920m Recorded
Black-throated Antbird Myrmeciza atrothorax 500m Recorded
Red-and-white Antpitta Grallaria erythroleuca Endemic Heard at 2410-2750m Recorded
Bolivian Tapaculo Scytalopus bolivianus 1840-2130m Recorded
Band-tailed Fruiteater Pipreola intermedia 2820m
Andean Cock-of-the-rock Rupicola peruviana 1650-1830m
Yungas Manakin Chiroxiphia boliviana 1600m
Mouse-colored Tyrannulet Phaeomyias murina 500m
Lesser Elaenia Elaenia chiriquensis 500m
Sierran Elaenia Elaenia pallatangae 2660m
Streak-necked Flycatcher Mionectes striaticollis 2050-2750m
Tawny-rumped Tyrannulet Phyllomyias uropygialis Possibly seen at 2850m
White-throated Tyrannulet Mecocerculus leucophrys 2750m
White-tailed Tyrannulet Mecocerculus poecilocercus 2370-2810m
Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant Lophotriccus pileatus 2830m
Handsome Flycatcher Myiophobus pulcher Possibly seen at 2320-2440m
Cinnamon Flycatcher Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea 1940-2820m
Smoke-colored Pewee Contopus fumigatus 2020-2130m
Black Phoebe Sayornis nigricans 1800m
Maroon-chested Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca thoracica 2410m
Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca fumicolor 3330m
Pale-edged Flycatcher Myiarchus cephalotes 2060-2340m
Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis 500m
Lemon-browed Flycatcher Conopias cinchoneti 1630m
Golden-crowned Flycatcher Myiodynastes chrysocephalus Heard at 2420m
Sulphury Flycatcher Tyrannopsis sulphurea 500m
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus 500-1630m
Barred Becard Pachyramphus versicolor 2220-2850m
Black-crowned Tityra Tityra inquisitor 500m
White-rumped Swallow Tachycineta leucorrhoa Possibly seen at 500m
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca 500-2690m
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis 500m
Moustached Wren Thryothorus genibarbis Heard at 500m & 1600m
House Wren Troglodytes aedon Heard at 500m
Mountain Wren Troglodytes solstitialis 2130-2420m
Sedge Wren Cistothorus platensis 3130m
Gray-breasted Wood-Wren Henicorhina leucophrys 1600-2410m Recorded
Andean Solitaire Myadestes ralloides Heard at 2120m Recorded
Great Thrush Turdus fuscater 3320m Photographed
Andean Slaty-Thrush Turdus nigriceps 2130m Recorded
Green Jay Cyanocorax yncas 1860m Recorded
Violaceous Jay Cyanocorax violaceus 530m Recorded
White-collared Jay Cyanolyca viridicyana 2640m Recorded
Red-eyed Vireo Vireo olivaceus 500-540m
Tropical Parula Parula pitiayumi 1630m
Slate-throated Redstart Myioborus miniatus 1710-2050m
Spectacled Redstart Myioborus melanocephalus 2410-2820m
Pale-legged Warbler Basileuterus signatus 2130-2410m Recorded
Citrine Warbler Basileuterus luteoviridis 2350-2810m
Russet-crowned Warbler Basileuterus coronatus 2130m
Three-striped Warbler Basileuterus tristriatus 1710-2130m Recorded
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola 500m
Cinereous Conebill Conirostrum cinereum Heard at 2850m
Blue-backed Conebill Conirostrum sitticolor 2420-2850m Photographed
Capped Conebill Conirostrum albifrons 1960-2420m
Magpie Tanager Cissopis leveriana 500m
Grass-green Tanager Chlorornis riefferii 2350-2660m
Common Bush-Tanager Chlorospingus ophthalmicus 2130-2420m
Short-billed Bush-Tanager Chlorospingus parvirostris 1800-2440m
Gray-hooded Bush-Tanager Cnemoscopus rubrirostris 2320-2470m
Superciliaried Hemispingus Hemispingus superciliaris 2420m
Oleaginous Hemispingus Hemispingus frontalis 2340m
Black-eared Hemispingus Hemispingus melanotis 2370m
Drab Hemispingus Hemispingus xanthophthalmus 2850m
White-browed Hemispingus Hemispingus auricularis Endemic 2850m Recorded
Slaty Tanager Creurgops dentata 1710-2130m
White-shouldered Tanager Tachyphonus luctuosus 500m
Masked Crimson Tanager Ramphocelus nigrogularis 500m
Silver-beaked Tanager Ramphocelus carbo 500-1620m
Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus 500-540m
Blue-capped Tanager Thraupis cyanocephala 2560-2820m
Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum 500m
Hooded Mountain-Tanager Buthraupis montana 2850-3220m Photographed Recorded
Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus igniventris 2720-3330m
Yellow-throated Tanager Iridosornis analis 1950-2130m
Golden-collared Tanager Iridosornis jelskii 2820m Photographed
Chestnut-bellied Mountain-Tanager Delothraupis castaneoventris 1880-2820m Photographed
White-vented Euphonia Euphonia minuta Possibly seen at 500m
Orange-bellied Euphonia Euphonia xanthogaster 500-2130m
Orange-eared Tanager Chlorochrysa calliparaea 1880m
Turquoise Tanager Tangara mexicana 500m
Paradise Tanager Tangara chilensis 500m
Green-and-gold Tanager Tangara schrankii 500m
Golden Tanager Tangara arthus 1880m
Saffron-crowned Tanager Tangara xanthocephala 2050-2120m
Blue-necked Tanager Tangara cyanicollis 500m
Beryl-spangled Tanager Tangara nigroviridis 1970-2120m
Blue-and-black Tanager Tangara vassorii 2720-2830m
Black-faced Dacnis Dacnis lineata 500m
Yellow-bellied Dacnis Dacnis flaviventer 500m
Purple Honeycreeper Cyanerpes caeruleus 500-1620m
Chestnut-bellied Seed-Finch Oryzoborus angolensis 500m
Rusty Flowerpiercer Diglossa sittoides 2660m
Deep-blue Flowerpiercer Diglossopis glauca 1970-2130m
Bluish Flowerpiercer Diglossopis caerulescens 1880m
Masked Flowerpiercer Diglossopis cyanea 2420-3040m Recorded
Olive Finch Lysurus castaneiceps 1880-1940m
Black-faced Brush-Finch Atlapetes melanolaimus 2350-3220m
Yellow-browed Sparrow Ammodramus aurifrons Heard at 500m Recorded
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis 2850-3490m
Buff-throated Saltator Saltator maximus 500m
Mountain Cacique Cacicus chrysonotus 2640-2820m Recorded
Crested Oropendola Psarocolius decumanus 500m
Dusky-green Oropendola Psarocolius atrovirens 1710-2050m Photographed Recorded
Russet-backed Oropendola Psarocolius angustifrons 500-1630m Photographed
Orange-backed Troupial Icterus croconotus 500m
Olivaceous Siskin Carduelis olivacea 2130m Photographed


Hosted by www.Geocities.ws

21. Manu Wildlife Centre, Boca Manu & Boat ride, Madre de Dios      1st-8th May, 2006

   Packages to Manu Wildlife Centre can be booked through InkaNatura or Manu Expeditions. I wanted to bird the Manu Road first and met up with a group at the Cock-of-the-Rock lodge and took a boat with them from Atalaya. The boat takes about 6 hours down stream (more up) and I saw many good water birds. MWC has a very extensive set of trails some better for certain species than others. The trail towards the canopy platform was good for mixed understorey flocks of antshrikes, antbirds and antwrens, whilst the canopy platform was excellent for canopy flocks of tanagers. The Collpa trail was good for foliage-gleaners. The bamboo area near the lodge and the area of bamboo on the island had a few bamboo specialists. Other common birds could be seen around the lodge gardens, by the dock and in the camp on the island. See the following list for where I saw various species. The canopy platform can be excellent in the mornings and with a scope you could see many species better. The macaw lick and the Rufous-fronted Antthrush site can be reached by boat but I didn't get there. The latter species can also apparently be seen in the forest surrounding the Boca Manu airport.
I saw 173 species including 56 lifers

Cinereous Tinamou Crypturellus cinereus Collpa Trail
Undulated Tinamou Crypturellus undulatus Island
Bartlett's Tinamou Crypturellus bartletti Heard on the Island
Anhinga Anhinga anhinga Boat from Atalaya
Capped Heron Pilherodius pileatus Dock
Cocoi Heron Ardea cocoi Boat from Atalaya
Great Egret Ardea alba Boat from Atalaya
Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea Boat from Atalaya
Snowy Egret Egretta thula Dock
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Boat from Atalaya
Striated Heron Butorides striata Boat from Atalaya
Fasciated Tiger-Heron Tigrisoma fasciatum Boat from Atalaya
Horned Screamer Anhima cornuta Boat from Atalaya
Muscovy Duck Cairina moschata Boat from Atalaya
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus Dock
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura Dock
Greater Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes melambrotus Dock
Hook-billed Kite Chondrohierax uncinatus Canopy platform?
Crane Hawk Geranospiza caerulescens Near lodge
Great Black-Hawk Buteogallus urubitinga Boat from Atalaya
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris Dock
Black Caracara Daptrius ater Bamboo Trail
Laughing Falcon Herpetotheres cachinnans Heard in Boca Manu
Barred Forest-Falcon Micrastur ruficollis Island
Collared Forest-Falcon Micrastur semitorquatus Heard from Canopy platform
Bat Falcon Falco rufigularis Dock
Speckled Chachalaca Ortalis guttata Bamboo Trail
Spix's Guan Penelope jacquacu Collpa Trail
Razor-billed Curassow Mitu tuberosa Island
Pale-winged Trumpeter Psophia leucoptera Near lodge
Pied Lapwing Vanellus cayanus Island
Collared Plover Charadrius collaris Island
Spotted Sandpiper Actitis macularia Island
Yellow-billed Tern Sterna superciliaris Boat from Atalaya
Large-billed Tern Phaetusa simplex Island
Black Skimmer Rynchops niger Boat from Atalaya
Plumbeous Pigeon Patagioenas plumbea Canopy platform
Ruddy Pigeon Patagioenas subvinacea Heard on Collpa Trail?
Gray-fronted Dove Leptotila rufaxilla Near lodge
Blue-and-yellow Macaw Ara ararauna Canopy platform
Scarlet Macaw Ara macao Dock
Red-and-green Macaw Ara chloroptera Boat from Atalaya
Chestnut-fronted Macaw Ara severa Bamboo Trail
White-eyed Parakeet Aratinga leucophthalmus Dock
Red-crowned Parakeet Pyrrhura roseifrons Tapir Lick
Black-capped Parakeet Pyrrhura rupicola Canopy platform
Cobalt-winged Parakeet Brotogeris cyanoptera Canopy platform
White-bellied Parrot Pionites leucogaster Canopy platform
Blue-headed Parrot Pionus menstruus Bamboo Trail
Mealy Parrot Amazona farinosa Dock
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana Creekside Trail
Tawny-bellied Screech-Owl Megascops watsonii Heard on the Island
Amazonian Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium hardyi Heard on the Island
Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium brasilianum Heard in Boca Manu
Great Potoo Nyctibius grandis Heard on the Island
Common Potoo Nyctibius griseus Heard on the Island
Sand-colored Nighthawk Chordeiles rupestris Boat from Atalaya
Pauraque Nyctidromus albicollis Heard in Boca Manu
White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris Boat from Atalaya
Swift sp Cypseloides sp Canopy platform
Needle-billed Hermit Phaethornis philippii Possibly seen on Bamboo Trail
Reddish Hermit Phaethornis ruber Near lodge
Collared Trogon Trogon collaris Grid
Black-tailed Trogon Trogon melanurus Possibly seen
Ringed Kingfisher Ceryle torquatus Boat from Atalaya
Amazon Kingfisher Chloroceryle amazona Dock
Green Kingfisher Chloroceryle americana Dock
American Pygmy Kingfisher Chloroceryle aenea River Trail
Blue-crowned Motmot Momotus momota Possibly heard on the island
Rufous Motmot Baryphthengus martii Collpa Trail
Broad-billed Motmot Electron platyrhynchum Heard from Canopy platform
Bluish-fronted Jacamar Galbula cyanescens Near lodge
Striolated Puffbird Nystalus striolatus Possibly seen from Canopy platform
Semicollared Puffbird Malacoptila semicincta Grid
Black-fronted Nunbird Monasa nigrifrons Canopy platform
White-fronted Nunbird Monasa morphoeus Grid
Swallow-wing Chelidoptera tenebrosa Dock
Gilded Barbet Capito auratus Creekside Trail
Lettered Aracari Pteroglossus inscriptus Canopy platform
(Brown-mandibled Aracari) Pteroglossus mariae Canopy platform Grid
Chestnut-eared Aracari Pteroglossus castanotis Island
Curl-crested Aracari Pteroglossus beauharnaesii Canopy platform Grid
Golden-collared Toucanet Selenidera reinwardtii Collpa Trail
(Yellow-ridged Toucan) Ramphastos culminatus Canopy platform
(Cuvier's Toucan) Ramphastos cuvieri Canopy platform
Yellow-tufted Woodpecker Melanerpes cruentatus Collpa Trail
Little Woodpecker Veniliornis passerinus Island
Red-stained Woodpecker Veniliornis affinis Collpa Trail
Golden-green Woodpecker Piculus chrysochloros Grid
Chestnut Woodpecker Celeus elegans Canopy platform
Cream-colored Woodpecker Celeus flavus Tapir Lick
Ringed Woodpecker Celeus torquatus Collpa Trail
Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus Island
Plain-crowned Spinetail Synallaxis gujanensis Island
Speckled Spinetail Cranioleuca gutturata Near lodge
Rufous-tailed Xenops Xenops milleri Platform Trail?
Slender-billed Xenops Xenops tenuirostris Island
Plain Xenops Xenops minutus Near lodge
Striped Woodhaunter Hyloctistes subulatus Collpa Trail
Chestnut-winged Foliage-gleaner Philydor erythropterus Canopy platform
Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner Philydor rufus Collpa Trail
Buff-throated Foliage-gleaner Automolus ochrolaemus Collpa Trail
Olive-backed Foliage-gleaner Automolus infuscatus Collpa Trail
Plain-brown Woodcreeper Dendrocincla fuliginosa Collpa Trail
Olivaceous Woodcreeper Sittasomus griseicapillus Canopy platform
Wedge-billed Woodcreeper Glyphorynchus spirurus Canopy platform
Cinnamon-throated Woodcreeper Dendrexetastes rufigula Bamboo Trail
Ocellated Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus ocellatus Grid
Buff-throated Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus guttatus Collpa Trail
Great Antshrike Taraba major Heard in Boca Manu
Amazonian Antshrike Thamnophilus amazonicus Grid
Bluish-slate Antshrike Thamnomanes schistogynus Platform Trail
Amazonian Antwren Myrmotherula multostriata Platform Trail
Plain-throated Antwren Myrmotherula hauxwelli Platform
White-flanked Antwren Myrmotherula axillaris Platform Trail
Long-winged Antwren Myrmotherula longipennis Near lodge
Gray Antwren Myrmotherula menetriesii Platform Trail
Blackish Antbird Cercomacra nigrescens Island
Manu Antbird Cercomacra manu Island?
White-browed Antbird Myrmoborus leucophrys Island
Warbling Antbird Hypocnemis cantator Platform Trail
Southern Chestnut-tailed Antbird Myrmeciza hemimelaena Island
Goeldi's Antbird Myrmeciza goeldii Collpa Trail
Black-faced Antthrush Formicarius analis Island
Amazonian Antpitta Hylopezus berlepschi Collpa Trail
Screaming Piha Lipaugus vociferans Grid
Band-tailed Manakin Pipra fasciicauda Grid
MacConnell's Flycatcher Mionectes macconnelli Collpa Trail
Short-tailed Pygmy-Tyrant Myiornis ecaudatus Platform Trail?
Rufous-tailed Flatbill Ramphotrigon ruficauda Collpa Trail
Golden-crowned Spadebill Platyrinchus coronatus Platform Trail
Black Phoebe Sayornis nigricans Boat from Atalaya
Vermilion Flycatcher Pyrocephalus rubinus Island
Drab Water-Tyrant Ochthornis littoralis Dock
Long-tailed Tyrant Colonia colonus Boat from Atalaya
Bright-rumped Attila Attila spadiceus Heard from Canopy platform
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua Island
Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis Island
Gray-capped Flycatcher Myiozetetes granadensis Near lodge
Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculatus Seen in Boca Manu
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus Island
Black-capped Becard Pachyramphus marginatus Collpa Trail
Pink-throated Becard Pachyramphus minor Creekside Trail
Brown-chested Martin Progne tapera Boat from Atalaya
White-winged Swallow Tachycineta albiventer Boat from Atalaya
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca Boat from Atalaya
White-banded Swallow Atticora fasciata Boat from Atalaya
Thrush-like Wren Campylorhynchus turdinus Heard on the Island
Moustached Wren Thryothorus genibarbis Island
House Wren Troglodytes aedon Heard in Boca Manu
Scaly-breasted Wren Microcerculus marginatus Heard
Purplish Jay Cyanocorax cyanomelas Island
Red-eyed Vireo Vireo olivaceus Island
White-winged Shrike-Tanager Lanio versicolor Canopy platform
Flame-crested Tanager Tachyphonus cristatus Canopy platform
White-shouldered Tanager Tachyphonus luctuosus Canopy platform
Red-crowned Ant-Tanager Habia rubica Platform Trail
Silver-beaked Tanager Ramphocelus carbo Island
Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus Island
Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum Island
Purple-throated Euphonia Euphonia chlorotica Canopy platform?
Paradise Tanager Tangara chilensis Canopy platform
Green-and-gold Tanager Tangara schrankii Canopy platform
Opal-rumped Tanager Tangara velia Canopy platform
Opal-crowned Tanager Tangara callophrys Canopy platform
Yellow-bellied Dacnis Dacnis flaviventer Island
Red-capped Cardinal Paroaria gularis Seen in Boca Manu
Yellow-browed Sparrow Ammodramus aurifrons Island
Giant Cowbird Molothrus oryzivorus Boat from Atalaya
Epaulet Oriole Icterus cayanensis Canopy platform
Yellow-rumped Cacique Cacicus cela Island Bamboo Trail
Crested Oropendola Psarocolius decumanus Bamboo Trail
Russet-backed Oropendola Psarocolius angustifrons Dock
Amazonian Oropendola Gymnostinops bifasciatus Island


22. Sandia, Puno       16th May, 2006

   Sandia is an out-of-the-way site famous for the endemic Green-capped Tanager. Sandia is reached by a gruelling 7-8 hour bus ride from Juliaca. Buses seem to leave twice a day, at 7:30am and 3pm (20s). If you have your own transport, the road there passes some nice lakes with many waterbirds that might be worth stopping at. Sandia has several places to stay, eat and do internet. We stayed at Hostal Sandia on the plaza for 10s per person.
   Green-capped Tanagers are apparently fairly common after 8km further down the valley. There are minibuses that leave the terminal when full that could drop you there. I walked from town early in the morning and found the species just 30 minutes to an hour from town. They were fairly easy to find in any areas with decent scrub or trees. Dusky Green Oropendola and Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle were also seen in this area and Torrent Tyrannulet, Black Phoebe and Torrent Duck could be seen on the river near town (the former 2 species just above and the latter just below).
   Buses only leave Sandia for Juliaca at 3pm although the San Juan bus also passes later on but is usually full. It's best to buy you tickets the day before as the buses often fill up. We chose the Selva Sur bus which skidded off the road and into a ditch leaving us to freeze above 4,000m for the night. It might be advisable to chose a difefrent bus.
I saw 33 species including 2 lifers

White-tufted Grebe Rollandia rolland Seen on the bus ride to Sandia
Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus Seen on the bus ride to Sandia
Great Egret Ardea alba Seen on the bus ride to Sandia
Puna Ibis Plegadis ridgwayi Seen on the bus ride to Sandia
Andean Goose Chloephaga melanoptera Seen on the bus ride to Sandia
Torrent Duck Merganetta armata
Speckled Teal Anas flavirostris Seen on the bus ride to Sandia
Yellow-billed Pintail Anas georgica Seen on the bus ride to Sandia
Andean Duck Oxyura ferruginea Seen on the bus ride to Sandia
Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle Geranoaetus melanoleucus Photographed
American Kestrel Falco sparverius Photographed
Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus Seen on the bus ride to Sandia
Slate-colored Coot Fulica ardesiaca Seen on the bus ride to Sandia
Giant Coot Fulica gigantea Seen on the bus ride to Sandia
Andean Lapwing Vanellus resplendens Seen on the bus ride to Sandia
Andean Gull Larus serranus Seen on the bus ride to Sandia
Band-tailed Pigeon Patagioenas fasciata Photographed
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi
White-bellied Hummingbird Leucippus chionogaster
Andean Flicker Colaptes rupicola Seen on the bus ride to Sandia
Highland Elaenia Elaenia obscura
Torrent Tyrannulet Serpophaga cinerea
Streak-necked Flycatcher Mionectes striaticollis
Tufted Tit-Tyrant Anairetes parulus
Black Phoebe Sayornis nigricans
White-winged Black-Tyrant Knipolegus aterrimus
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Chiguanco Thrush Turdus chiguanco
Rust-and-yellow Tanager Thlypopsis ruficeps
Green-capped Tanager Tangara meyerdeschauenseei Endemic Vulnerable Photographed Recorded
Dull-colored Grassquit Tiaris obscura
Dusky-green Oropendola Psarocolius atrovirens


23. Abra Maruncunca, Puno       17-18th May, 2006

   Abra Maruncunca is a pass between Sandia and San Juan de Oro. A bus leaves Juliaca daily and passes Sandia about 1pm. It should take about 3 hours but our bus set off late and had a few problem on route meaning it was about 5pm by the time we arrived. The driver should know Maruncunca but look out for the 'obelisco' on the right just before the pass and ask to get off here. A short distance before the obelisk, there is a path leading off to the right (looking down hill). Follow this up the hill and down the other side. At the first obvious fork in the trail (about 15 minutes from the road), there is a small flat area just big enough for a tent. We camped here 2 nights. There should be other places to camp back near the road too.
   I birded the left fork here which leads down through some nice humid forest. The first 5-10 minutes of the trail had some fruiting trees with Andean Cock-of-the-Rock (common), Blue-banded Toucanet and Band-tailed Fruiteater. Flowering shrubs and trees had many hummingbirds including Gould's Inca, Booted Racket-tail and Long-tailed Sylph. I also saw Maroon-tailed Parakeet here. About 15 minutes down from the fork, there is a fork leading down to the right.Ignore this and go straight on under a low branch, down some muddy steps. After this, at a diagonal moss-covered tree accross the trail, I saw Scimitar-winged Piha, Hooded Tinamou, Scarlet-breasted Fruiteater, Versicolored Barbet, White-eared Solitaire, Green Jay and Slaty Tanager.
   Further down, the slope becomes flatter. This area of forest had Scaly-naped Parrot and a mixed flock including Tawny-breasted Flycatcher. The is another fork, the left leading to a small stream with good water. This forest has species more similar to Bolivia than Peru and deserves a lot more exploring.
   We walked all the way back down to the bridge at the main river (16km) some of which had some good birding. The upper part had Three-striped Warbler, White-bellied Hummingbird and Cinnamon Flycatcher. Around the small village of Yanacocha further down I saw White-winged Black-Tyrant and Speckled Chachalaca. At a cliff further down I saw some swifts which I thought looked like smaller versions of White-collared. I thought they might be White-chested but were probably more likely White-tipped. After the larger town of Quiquira, the road wound down to the river near which I saw Black-faced Tanager. This road has very little traffic. Buses pass here at about 7-8am (?) and in the late afternoon. As buses come directly from Julicaca it would be possible to go straight to Abra Maruncunca and bird Sandia on the way back.
I saw 60 species including 7 lifers

Hooded Tinamou Nothocercus nigrocapillus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Aplomado Falcon Falco femoralis
Speckled Chachalaca Ortalis guttata
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi
Maroon-tailed Parakeet Pyrrhura melanura Photographed Recorded
Scaly-naped Parrot Amazona mercenaria Photographed
White-tipped Swift Aeronautes montivagus Possibly seen Recorded?
Gray-breasted Sabrewing Campylopterus largipennis Photographed
Green Violet-ear Colibri thalassinus
White-bellied Hummingbird Leucippus chionogaster
Speckled Hummingbird Adelomyia melanogenys
Gould's Inca Coeligena inca
Booted Racket-tail Ocreatus underwoodii
Long-tailed Sylph Aglaiocercus kingi
Masked Trogon Trogon personatus
Versicolored Barbet Eubucco versicolor
Blue-banded Toucanet Aulacorhynchus coeruleicinctis
Azara's Spinetail Synallaxis azarae Recorded
Spotted Barbtail Premnoplex brunnescens
Montane Foliage-gleaner Anabacerthia striaticollis
Olivaceous Woodcreeper Sittasomus griseicapillus
Olive-backed Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus triangularis Possibly seen
Montane Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes lacrymiger
Variable Antshrike Thamnophilus caerulescens Photographed Recorded
Barred Antthrush Chamaeza mollissima Heard
Slaty Gnateater Conopophaga ardesiaca
Band-tailed Fruiteater Pipreola intermedia Photographed
Scarlet-breasted Fruiteater Pipreola frontalis Photographed
Scimitar-winged Piha Lipaugus uropygialis Vulnerable
Andean Cock-of-the-rock Rupicola peruviana Photographed
Streak-necked Flycatcher Mionectes striaticollis
Tawny-breasted Flycatcher Myiobius villosus
White-winged Black-Tyrant Knipolegus aterrimus
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Barred Becard Pachyramphus versicolor
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Gray-breasted Wood-Wren Henicorhina leucophrys Recorded
White-eared Solitaire Entomodestes leucotis
Green Jay Cyanocorax yncas
Spectacled Redstart Myioborus melanocephalus
Citrine Warbler Basileuterus luteoviridis Recorded
Russet-crowned Warbler Basileuterus coronatus Recorded
Three-striped Warbler Basileuterus tristriatus
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola
Black-faced Tanager Schistochlamys melanopis Seen near San Jose
Common Bush-Tanager Chlorospingus ophthalmicus Recorded
Slaty Tanager Creurgops dentata
Blue-capped Tanager Thraupis cyanocephala Photographed
Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus somptuosus Photographed Recorded
Bronze-green Euphonia Euphonia mesochrysa Possibly seen
Beryl-spangled Tanager Tangara nigroviridis
Blue-and-black Tanager Tangara vassorii
Slaty Finch Haplospiza rustica
Rusty Flowerpiercer Diglossa sittoides Photographed
Bluish Flowerpiercer Diglossopis caerulescens
Black-faced Brush-Finch Atlapetes melanolaimus Endemic Photographed
Chestnut-capped Brush-Finch Buarremon brunneinucha Photographed
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis


24. Paracas Peninsular & Isla Ballestas, Pisco       23rd May, 2006

   Isla Ballestas is a really spectacular seabird colony only accessible on a tour. These are very cheap (30s) from Pisco. Pisco is a large town with many places to stay, eat and do internet. It also has some dodgy characters and it is best to stick to the areas near the plaza with lots of people, especially at night. Tours are easily arranged through a hotel or tour agency. They leave about 7am and return about 11am. The boat trip to Isla Ballestas is about 2 hours and you can see 3 cormorant species, Peruvian Booby, Inca Tern, Peruvian Seaside Cinclodes and Humboldt's Penguin (only a few) plus lots of sea lions. Pelagic species can sometimes be seen in the area but I saw none. The area around El Chaco port has 5 species of gull plus some waders.
   I arranged a full day tour (through my hotel) for 40s which went to the island in the morning and the reserve in the afternoon. The land on the peninsular is desert with little life, but the coast has many sea birds. Our tour stopped at the museum nearby which there is a viewing platform where you can see Chilean Flamingos plus some waders and terns in a small bay. On the walk from the museum to the platform I saw Coastal Miner. It is quite far from the platform to the bay and binoculars don't really suffice. A telescope would be very handy. I saw some very small terns feeding in this small bay which were probably Peruvian. A better place for this species is further on this road where there is another platform. Our tour didn't go there though. Walking though the dessert to get there yourself wouldn't be very pleasant. The tour also stopped at a beach which had Black Skimmer, Osprey and oystercatchers and another place called 'La Catedral' with a spledid view over the cliffs.

I saw 35 species including 5 lifers

Humboldt Penguin Spheniscus humboldti Vulnerable Photographed
Peruvian Pelican Pelecanus thagus Photographed
Peruvian Booby Sula variegata Photographed
Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus Photographed
Guanay Cormorant Phalacrocorax bougainvillii Photographed
Red-legged Cormorant Phalacrocorax gaimardi Near-threatened Photographed
Great Egret Ardea alba
Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea
Snowy Egret Egretta thula
Chilean Flamingo Phoenicopterus chilensis Near-threatened
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura Photographed
Osprey Pandion haliaetus
American Kestrel Falco sparverius
Blackish Oystercatcher Haematopus ater Photographed
American Oystercatcher Haematopus palliatus
Black-bellied Plover Pluvialis squatarola Possibly seen
Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus
Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres Photographed
Belcher's Gull Larus belcheri Photographed
Gray Gull Larus modestus Photographed
Kelp Gull Larus dominicanus Photographed
Gray-headed Gull Larus cirrocephalus Photographed
Franklin's Gull Larus pipixcan Photographed
Royal Tern Sterna maxima Possibly seen
Peruvian Tern Sterna lorata Near-threatened Possibly seen
Black Tern Chlidonias niger Possibly seen
Black Skimmer Rynchops niger
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Introduced species
Pacific Dove Zenaida meloda
Croaking Ground-Dove Columbina cruziana
Coastal Miner Geositta peruviana Endemic
Peruvian Seaside Cinclodes Cinclodes taczanowskii Endemic
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
House Sparrow Passer domesticus Introduced species


25. Lampa, Junin       30-31st May, 2006

   Lampa is a slightly out of the way site and the type location for the endangered endemic Black-spectacled Brush-Finch. To reach here, first take a bus to Huancayo, a city with good access and facilities. From here take a car towards Pariahuanca. These leave from near the market when full. It takes about 2 and a half hours to Lampa (12s). Lampa is a nice little town with only 1 place to stay which is just 1 block from the plaza. It belongs to Marcelino who is trying to encourage toursim in the area. His Hospedaje is clean and has many beds but no doors to the individual rooms. There are a few simple restaurants and shops in town.
   To get to the site for the brush-finch, look up hill from the plaza and you should see a path winding up the hillside. There is a road that runs along above the plaza to the right, round the ridge, into the small valley and over a small bridge. This is too far. Turn left off this road onto the steep path up the hill just after the restaurant and bfore a kind of blue, concrete pyramid. Just follow this path up which runs up the left side of the valley. The brush-finch is found in scrub between the fields quite early on. The vegetation further on is more natural and there is som nice forest. The trail crosses a bridge further up where I saw White-capped Dipper. Furher on I saw the strange race of Plain-tailed Warbler which associated with Citrine Warblers.
I saw 33 species including 2 lifers

Andean Ibis Theristicus branickii Seen between Huancayo and Lampa
Torrent Duck Merganetta armata
Mountain Caracara Phalcoboenus megalopterus Seen between Huancayo and Lampa
Andean Lapwing Vanellus resplendens Seen between Huancayo and Lampa
Band-tailed Pigeon Patagioenas fasciata
White-tipped Swift Aeronautes montivagus
Sparkling Violet-ear Colibri coruscans
Shining Sunbeam Aglaeactis cupripennis
Mountain Velvetbreast Lafresnaya lafresnayi Possibly seen
Violet-throated Starfrontlet Coeligena violifer
Tyrian Metaltail Metallura tyrianthina
Long-tailed Sylph Aglaiocercus kingi
White-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes atacamensis Seen between Huancayo and Lampa
Red-crested Cotinga Ampelion rubrocristata
Torrent Tyrannulet Serpophaga cinerea
Cinnamon Flycatcher Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea
Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca rufipectoralis
White-winged Black-Tyrant Knipolegus aterrimus
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
White-capped Dipper Cinclus leucocephalus
Plain-tailed Wren Thryothorus euophrys
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Mountain Wren Troglodytes solstitialis
Great Thrush Turdus fuscater
Spectacled Redstart Myioborus melanocephalus
Citrine Warbler Basileuterus luteoviridis
Rust-and-yellow Tanager Thlypopsis ruficeps
Dull-colored Grassquit Tiaris obscura
Black-throated Flowerpiercer Diglossa brunneiventris
Black-spectacled Brush-Finch Atlapetes melanopsis Endemic Endangered
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Golden-billed Saltator Saltator aurantiirostris
Black-backed Grosbeak Pheucticus aureoventris


26. Lago Junin, Ondores, Junin       1-2nd June, 2006

   This high alitude lake is the only site for the critically endangered endemic Junin Grebe and endangered endemic Junin Rail. It is fairly easy to see the grebes if you take a boat out onto the lake, more difficult to see from the edge of the lake in Ondores. The rail is incedibly difficult but apparently not impossible to see species. Junin is a fairly large town between Lima and Huanuco. You can take a bus to the latter from Lima and get off at Junin which is on the highway. Alternatively you can get any bus to La Oreja and a taxi or bus from the junction. There are several places to stay, eat and do internet around the main plaza in Junin. The place to bird is Ondores, a smaller town 40 minutes (20km) away. There maybe basic accomodation but there is no reason to stay there as colectivos leave regularly and are very cheap (3s). From the main plaza, walk to the Plaza de Armas (smaller) and another block away to the place where they leave (just ask).
   Get off at the INRENA office (opens at 8am) and pay the 5s entry charge. The staff are very friendly and helpful and know the 2 species well. They can put you in contact with a guide or boat man to take you out. I was allowed to join some INRENA biologists studying the endemic Junin Frog out on to an island on the lake. From here I saw the grebes at some distance. I tipped their boat man 10s.
   To see the grebe from the lake edge, you need to be there when the water level is high, which it was when I was there. Go through Ondores and out the other side. About a km further along there is a cemetery on the left hand side. About here, walk down to the lake edge and look for the grebe. A scope is helpful if they are far away especially to distiguish from the similar Silvery Grebe. I didn't see them when I was here but another group saw them very close to the edge. For the rail, cut down to the lake from the INRENA office. This time walk the other way (right) along the lake to where reed beds meet the edge. I waded through this area in search of the rail with no luck but apparently this is the area it was seen by Tomas Valqui 2 weeks before. He had a local guide with him so you could enquire. At high water, the rails seem to fly off th lake islands to the lake edge where they may be more susceptible to predation. 3 corpses had been found recently. The whole area is great for waterbirds but migrants had already passed when I was there.
I saw 42 species including 2 lifers

White-tufted Grebe Rollandia rolland
Silvery Grebe Podiceps occipitalis
Junin Grebe Podiceps taczanowskii Endemic Critically endangered
Snowy Egret Egretta thula
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Puna Ibis Plegadis ridgwayi
Andean Goose Chloephaga melanoptera
Speckled Teal Anas flavirostris
Crested Duck Anas specularioides
Yellow-billed Pintail Anas georgica
Puna Teal Anas puna
Andean Duck Oxyura ferruginea
Cinereous Harrier Circus cinereus
Mountain Caracara Phalcoboenus megalopterus
Aplomado Falcon Falco femoralis
Plumbeous Rail Pardirallus sanguinolentus
Purple Gallinule Porphyrio martinica
Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
Slate-colored Coot Fulica ardesiaca
Giant Coot Fulica gigantea
Andean Lapwing Vanellus resplendens
Puna Snipe Gallinago andina
Andean Gull Larus serranus
Black-winged Ground-Dove Metriopelia melanoptera
Andean Flicker Colaptes rupicola
Common Miner Geositta cunicularia
Bar-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes fuscus Possibly seen
White-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes atacamensis
Wren-like Rushbird Phleocryptes melanops
Many-colored Rush-Tyrant Tachuris rubrigastra
Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant Agriornis montana
Andean Negrito Lessonia oreas
Andean Swallow Haplochelidon andecola
Correndera Pipit Anthus correndera
Short-billed Pipit Anthus furcatus
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Chiguanco Thrush Turdus chiguanco
Peruvian Sierra-Finch Phrygilus punensis
Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch Phrygilus plebejus
Bright-rumped Yellow-Finch Sicalis uropygialis
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Black Siskin Carduelis atrata


27. Carpish Tunnel, Huanuco       3rd June, 2006

   This great birding site is very easily reached from Huanuco, a large city with good facilities. Take one of the many colectivos leaving for Tingo Maria. They will try and charge you the full fare of 15s but you should only pay 6-7s. The ride takes about 50 minutes. Get off before the tunnel and explore some of the forest nearby. There is a open area on the left here with a nice view over the forest. From here you can also get down a narrow trail to a little stream and beyond. Further down the road, there is a right bend at a small stream. This was mentioned in Valqui, but the trail along the stream is overgrown and the first part has been used as a toilet by motorists. By far the best area around here was a trail starting on the left just before tunnel. This goes up into a open grassy slope full of Black-and-white Seedeaters. Stick to the right of this area and follow the trail up. As you reach the trees, there is a fork. The right goes further up to another fork, both ways leading up to 2 large electricity pylons. After exploring these, take the first left fork which goes on for a long way through good scrub and secondary forest crawling with birds. If you continue along here, you finally get to a house after which the trail curves to the right and goes along to the other side of the tunnel. At this curve, there is also a trail leading straight on which I didn't go down but looks like it might lead through good habitat.
  
I saw 35 species including 4 lifers

Andean Guan Penelope montagnii
Violet-throated Starfrontlet Coeligena violifer
Amethyst-throated Sunangel Heliangelus amethysticollis
Tyrian Metaltail Metallura tyrianthina
Rufous Spinetail Synallaxis unirufa
Azara's Spinetail Synallaxis azarae Heard only
Pearled Treerunner Margarornis squamiger
Streaked Tuftedcheek Pseudocolaptes boissonneautii
White-throated Tyrannulet Mecocerculus leucophrys
Sulphur-bellied Tyrannulet Mecocerculus minor
White-banded Tyrannulet Mecocerculus stictopterus
Ochraceous-breasted Flycatcher Myiophobus ochraceiventris
Cinnamon Flycatcher Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea
Peruvian Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca spodionota Endemic
Rufous-webbed Tyrant Polioxolmis rufipennis
Barred Becard Pachyramphus versicolor
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Andean Solitaire Myadestes ralloides Heard only
White-eared Solitaire Entomodestes leucotis Heard only
Great Thrush Turdus fuscater
Spectacled Redstart Myioborus melanocephalus
Citrine Warbler Basileuterus luteoviridis
Blue-backed Conebill Conirostrum sitticolor
Grass-green Tanager Chlorornis riefferii
Superciliaried Hemispingus Hemispingus superciliaris
Blue-capped Tanager Thraupis cyanocephala
Lacrimose Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus lacrymosus
Yellow-scarfed Tanager Iridosornis reinhardti Endemic
Chestnut-bellied Mountain-Tanager Delothraupis castaneoventris
Blue-and-black Tanager Tangara vassorii
White-browed Hemispingus Hemispingus auricularis Endemic
Black-and-white Seedeater Sporophila luctuosa
Moustached Flowerpiercer Diglossa mystacalis
Masked Flowerpiercer Diglossopis cyanea
Slaty Brush-Finch Atlapetes schistaceus


28. Paty Trail, Huanuco       4th June, 2006

   This is another excellent site 4km further on from the end of the tunnel. The birds here differ a little from Carpish. It is accessed in just the same way by taking a colectivo but getting off a bit further down. My driver didn't know 'Paty' but its basically the first group of houses down on the left. After the houses, walk down a little path starting before the metal rail. If you're not sure, ask the locals where the school is. The path leads down to a few school buildings, then further down to a small football pitch. It was raining the morning I was there and I saw few birds but improved later on. The site is definately worth a couple of days birding. It was 8am by the time I arrived and it may well be worth staying here to be there first thing. You could probably camp. Alternatively you could contact Fernando Gallardo ([email protected]) who has a house nearby and who occasionally hosts birdwatchers and biologists.
  
I saw 33 species including 4 lifers

Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris
Orange-breasted Falcon Falco deiroleucus
Chestnut-breasted Coronet Boissonneaua matthewsii
Bronzy Inca Coeligena coeligena
Amethyst-throated Sunangel Heliangelus amethysticollis
Tyrian Metaltail Metallura tyrianthina
Crimson-mantled Woodpecker Piculus rivolii
Azara's Spinetail Synallaxis azarae
Buff-browed Foliage-gleaner Syndactyla rufosuperciliata
Streak-necked Flycatcher Mionectes striaticollis
Peruvian Tyrannulet Zimmerius viridiflavus Endemic
Cinnamon Flycatcher Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Peruvian Wren Cinnycerthia peruana Endemic
Mountain Wren Troglodytes solstitialis
Gray-breasted Wood-Wren Henicorhina leucophrys
White-eared Solitaire Entomodestes leucotis Heard only
Great Thrush Turdus fuscater
Spectacled Redstart Myioborus melanocephalus
Citrine Warbler Basileuterus luteoviridis
Russet-crowned Warbler Basileuterus coronatus
Capped Conebill Conirostrum albifrons
Grass-green Tanager Chlorornis riefferii
Gray-hooded Bush-Tanager Cnemoscopus rubrirostris
Blue-capped Tanager Thraupis cyanocephala
Lacrimose Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus lacrymosus
Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus somptuosus
Beryl-spangled Tanager Tangara nigroviridis
Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina
Black-and-white Seedeater Sporophila luctuosa
Masked Flowerpiercer Diglossopis cyanea
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Dusky-green Oropendola Psarocolius atrovirens


29. Bosque Unchog, near Cochabamba, Huanuco       5-7th June, 2006

   Bosque Unchog is an excellent area of patchy elfin forest fairly close to Huanuco. It is best to spend a couple of days up there and camp, although at over 3,600m it gets very cold at night and in the morning our tent was frozen solid. It is easy to reach the town of Cochabamba by public transport from Huanuco but a little more complicated getting back. Trucks and collective taxis leave from the small terminal near Mercado Viejo in central Huanuco. We went up in a car for 5s which left at about 11:30am. A truck costing 3s left at 1pm. It takes about 2-3 hours depending on the state of the vehicle. It is about 8km from Cochabamba to the end of the road and we negotiated with the driver to take us there for an extra 10s for 2 people. He claimed to run out of petrol half way up but I don't think he was happy about the state of the road. At the end of the road you cross a little bridge and enter an open valley with many places to camp. We found a sheltered spot next to a small stream with good water.
   Getting back is more difficult. Unless you can persuade someone reliable to come and pick you up, you will have to walk back down to town. Another problem is that cars usually leave Cochabamba for Huanuco at 6am. The road winds all the way down and there are several good short cuts that save you a lot of time. From Unchog (above 3,600m) to Shihualli (about 2,200m) at the bottom is probably more than 20km but using the short cuts we made it down in 3 hours. From Shihualli there are a few cars and trucks passing that will take you back to Huanuco for 3s or you can walk an extra 6km to the highway and take a minibus for 1s. There is a small charge for vehicles using the road to Cochabamba and Valqui recommended giving a small donation to the school. Ask around for the 'Presidente' of the community.
   Between Shihualli and Cochabamba I saw many common andean species plus Fasciated Wren (in gardens around the junction), White-bellied Hummingbird and Black-and-White Seedeater. Between Cochabamba you start to see some more interesting species such as Brown-flanked Tanager, Plain-colored Seedeater, Black-throated Flowerpiercer and Mountain Caracara. In the upper areas of elfin forest aroun 3600m I saw Andean Snipe, Coppery Metaltail, White-chinned Thistletail and Slaty Brush-Finch. In the open area to the right, Andean Lapwing, Mountain Caracara, Speckled teal and Bar-winged Cinclodes. You pass the highest point on the trail about 3,650m and after this the trail goes down. On the next level down there was a small open area on the left (3,620m) with Red-rumped Bush-Tyrant, Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant and Line-fronted Canastero. A little further down was a small, narrow patch of scrub (3,580m) great for flocks including Pardusco, Pearled Tree-runner, Gold-collared and Yellow-scarved Tanagers, Scarlet-bellied Mountain-tanagers and Blue-backed Conebill. The next interesting area was where the trail went down steeply through a small patch of good forest (3,470-3,550m) . Here I saw Rufous Antpitta, Bay-vented Cotinga,.....
I saw 65 species including 8 lifers

Puna Ibis Plegadis ridgwayi
Speckled Teal Anas flavirostris
Mountain Caracara Phalcoboenus megalopterus
American Kestrel Falco sparverius Seen near Cochabamba
Andean Lapwing Vanellus resplendens
Puna Snipe Gallinago andina
Andean Snipe Gallinago jamesoni
Band-tailed Pigeon Patagioenas fasciata
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata Seen near Cochabamba
Sparkling Violet-ear Colibri coruscans Seen near Cochabamba
White-bellied Hummingbird Leucippus chionogaster Seen near Cochabamba
Sword-billed Hummingbird Ensifera ensifera
Amethyst-throated Sunangel Heliangelus amethysticollis
Coppery Metaltail Metallura theresiae Endemic
Bar-bellied Woodpecker Veniliornis nigriceps
Andean Flicker Colaptes rupicola
Bar-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes fuscus
White-chinned Thistletail Schizoeaca fuliginosa
Line-fronted Canastero Asthenes urubambensis Near-threatened
Pearled Treerunner Margarornis squamiger
Streaked Tuftedcheek Pseudocolaptes boissonneautii
Rufous Antpitta Grallaria rufula
Large-footed Tapaculo Scytalopus macropus Endemic Heard only
Red-crested Cotinga Ampelion rubrocristata
Bay-vented Cotinga Doliornis sclateri Endemic
White-throated Tyrannulet Mecocerculus leucophrys
White-banded Tyrannulet Mecocerculus stictopterus
Ochraceous-breasted Flycatcher Myiophobus ochraceiventris
Black Phoebe Sayornis nigricans Seen near Cochabamba
Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca rufipectoralis
Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca fumicolor
Red-rumped Bush-Tyrant Cnemarchus erythropygius
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca Seen near Cochabamba
White-capped Dipper Cinclus leucocephalus
Fasciated Wren Campylorhynchus fasciatus Seen near Cochabamba
Peruvian Wren Cinnycerthia peruana Endemic
House Wren Troglodytes aedon Seen near Cochabamba
Sedge Wren Cistothorus platensis
Great Thrush Turdus fuscater
Citrine Warbler Basileuterus luteoviridis
Cinereous Conebill Conirostrum cinereum
Blue-backed Conebill Conirostrum sitticolor
Grass-green Tanager Chlorornis riefferii
Superciliaried Hemispingus Hemispingus superciliaris
Drab Hemispingus Hemispingus xanthophthalmus
Brown-flanked Tanager Thlypopsis pectoralis Endemic Possibly seen
Golden-backed Mountain-Tanager Buthraupis aureodorsalis Endemic Vulnerable
Lacrimose Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus lacrymosus
Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus igniventris
Golden-collared Tanager Iridosornis jelskii
Yellow-scarfed Tanager Iridosornis reinhardti Endemic
Pardusco Nephelornis oneilli Endemic
White-browed Hemispingus Hemispingus auricularis Endemic
Plumbeous Sierra-Finch Phrygilus unicolor
Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch Phrygilus plebejus
Black-and-white Seedeater Sporophila luctuosa
Plain-colored Seedeater Catamenia inornata
Glossy Flowerpiercer Diglossa lafresnayii
Moustached Flowerpiercer Diglossa mystacalis
Black-throated Flowerpiercer Diglossa brunneiventris
Masked Flowerpiercer Diglossopis cyanea
Slaty Brush-Finch Atlapetes schistaceus
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Golden-bellied Grosbeak Pheucticus chrysogaster Seen near Cochabamba
Hooded Siskin Carduelis magellanica Seen near Cochabamba


30. Rio Chonta, Cajamarca       12th June, 2006

   This is an easily accessibly site from Cajamarca for the endangered endemic Grey-bellied Comet. I tried to follow the instructions in the Valqui guide and got totally lost. Instead of going via Ba�os del Inca, it is far easier via the airport towards Combayo. Colectivos and combis leave from around 194 Jiron Revilla Perez, a continuation of Jiron del ..... starting at the corner of the plaza. The ride takes about 50 minutes and costs just 2s. The first 20 minutes or so is paved then it is a gravel road. Ask to get off at Chicche where there is a small hydroelectric power station. From there it is just a few hundred metres until good habitat. Just before the first house on the left there is a dry stream bed coming down and a little hill with a big rock. Both these have some small trees with pink and yellow flowers where I saw the comets feeding. I also saw one at the bottom of the hill perched on a low branch catching insects like a flycatcher. I also saw Green-tailed Trainbearer here and Torrent Tyrannulets are easily seen on the river. The owner of this property was called Florentino Cortez. He asked for a few soles for some food which I was happy to give him.
I saw 21 species including 1 lifer

Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
American Kestrel Falco sparverius
Sparkling Violet-ear Colibri coruscans
Green-tailed Trainbearer Lesbia nuna
Gray-bellied Comet Taphrolesbia griseiventris Endemic Endangered
Purple-collared Woodstar Myrtis fanny Possibly seen
Andean Flicker Colaptes rupicola
Baron's Spinetail Cranioleuca baroni Endemic
Torrent Tyrannulet Serpophaga cinerea
Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant Anairetes flavirostris
White-browed Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca leucophrys
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Great Thrush Turdus fuscater
Peruvian Sierra-Finch Phrygilus punensis
Band-tailed Seedeater Catamenia analis
Black-throated Flowerpiercer Diglossa brunneiventris
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Golden-billed Saltator Saltator aurantiirostris
Golden-bellied Grosbeak Pheucticus chrysogaster
Peruvian Meadowlark Sturnella bellicosa


31. San Marcos, Cajamarca       13th June, 2006

   This is an easily accessible site to see the vulnerable endemic Great Spinetail. Take a bus towards Cajabamba from Cajamarca. Several companies have buses leaving, most in the afternoon. We took a Rojas Bus which left at 2pm costing 6s. They also have a bus leaving at 9am and you could conceivably do this as a day trip from Cajamarca. Combis also leave Cajamarca regularly for San Marcos but I didn't find out where from. To get to the site early in the morning, it's definately better to stay in San Marcos for the night. We stayed at the Hospedaje Inclan, just 1 block from the plaza. An OK double was 20s.
   To get to the site follow the instructions in Valqui. Walk out of town back towards Cajamarca, over the bridge and up the hill. Turn right on the trail at the first sharp bend, just after the km 57 marker. There are little motorbike taxi's in town that will take you up there for just 1s. I walked all the way up the trail until it reached a small settlement. This is too far up for the spinetail. Just go up until you get to a big grassy clearing. At the beginning of this on the rightm look for a little trail up the slope. About 5 minutes up here was a good place for spinetails and I saw sveral pairs. They are responsive to playback and can be very vocal. Just before I got back to the road, I saw Buff-bridled Inca-Finch and Tropical Gnatcatcher on the left (coming down).
I saw 25 species including 2 lifers

Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata
Croaking Ground-Dove Columbina cruziana
Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia Heard only
Sparkling Violet-ear Colibri coruscans
Spot-throated Hummingbird Leucippus taczanowskii Endemic
Amazilia Hummingbird Amazilia amazilia
Speckled Hummingbird Adelomyia melanogenys
Purple-collared Woodstar Myrtis fanny Heard only
Black-necked Woodpecker Colaptes atricollis Endemic
Great Spinetail Siptornopsis hypochondriacus Endemic Vulnerable
Tawny-crowned Pygmy-Tyrant Euscarthmus meloryphus
Vermilion Flycatcher Pyrocephalus rubinus
White-winged Black-Tyrant Knipolegus aterrimus
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Chiguanco Thrush Turdus chiguanco
Tropical Gnatcatcher Polioptila plumbea
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola
Hepatic Tanager Piranga flava
Buff-bridled Inca-Finch Incaspiza laeta Endemic
Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina
Yellow-bellied Seedeater Sporophila nigricollis
Dull-colored Grassquit Tiaris obscura
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Scrub Blackbird Dives warszewiczi
Hooded Siskin Carduelis magellanica


32. El Molino, La Libertad       16th June, 2006

   This is a very out of the way site and a bit of a pain to get to on public transport but it is the only known site for the recently upgraded critically endangered endemic Purple-backed Sunbeam. I went here after looking for Great Spinetail near San Marcos. From the plaza in San Marcos, buses pass from Cajamarca heading to Cajabamba. Several buses come through at different times. The first Rojas bus came at 12:30pm but was full and wouldn't let on any passengers. We got on the Peru Bus which arrived about 4:30pm. It takes about 3 hours to get to Cajabamba from San Marcos (5s), only the first 30 minutes of which were paved. This seems to have been done recently and it may take less time in future. We stayed the night in Cajabamba which is a nice little town with pretty plaza and friendly people. I recommend the 'La Casona' hotel on the plaza with a double room with hot water and cable TV for just 25s. There are plenty of places to eat and do internet in town too. A 'Los Andes' bus leaves Cajabamba for Huamachuco at 9am. The office is next to the market a few blocks along Grau from the plaza. Another bus leaves at 4am (10s).
   It takes 3 hours to Huamachuco but just 2 and a half hours to Lake Sausacocha where there is a turn-off to Tayabamba. There is public transport from Huamachuco towards Tayabamba which passes El Molino but you can just wait at the turn-off in Sausacocha instead of going all the way to Huamachuco. We managed to get a ride with a big logging truck which was painfully slow and uncomfortable. It took 7 hours to go 70km. We took a minibus on the way back which got from El Molino, leaving at 1pm, to Sausacocha in just 3 and a half hours. The bus service varies from day to day. Ask locally. A bus from Huamachuco passed by Sausacocha to Cajabamba at about 6pm. If you get stuck in Sausacocha there is accomdation and restaurants.
   2 of the restaurants in El Molino also have beds. We stayed at the first as you enter town. They charged 5s per person in seperate beds and 8s for 2 people sharing a single bed. There was no electricity and just an earth floor. Bring a warm sleeping bag and flashlight. The second restaurant looked a little cleaner when we saw it the next morning. Alternatively, a nice woman called Iris Rebaza Chavez ([email protected] or [email protected]) has a large, white house accross from these 2 resaturants and she can also provide accomodation.
   The trail 500m down from town was good for the sunbeams, but they are very common along the road too. I observed them feeding on 5 types of flowers including Eucalyptus. They seem very common around town. I also saw Rainbow Starfrontlet feeding from flowers near the start of the trail.
I saw 15 species including 3 lifers

Sparkling Violet-ear Colibri coruscans
Purple-backed Sunbeam Aglaeactis aliciae Endemic Vulnerable
Rainbow Starfrontlet Coeligena iris
Tyrian Metaltail Metallura tyrianthina
Red-crested Cotinga Ampelion rubrocristata
White-banded Tyrannulet Mecocerculus stictopterus
Black-crested Tit-Tyrant Anairetes nigrocristatus
Cinnamon Flycatcher Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea
Chiguanco Thrush Turdus chiguanco
Black-crested Warbler Basileuterus nigrocristatus
Buff-bellied Tanager Thlypopsis inornata Endemic
Peruvian Sierra-Finch Phrygilus punensis
Black-throated Flowerpiercer Diglossa brunneiventris
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Hooded Siskin Carduelis magellanica


33. Hacienda Limon, Cajamarca       19th June, 2006

   From Cajamarca, take a bus to Celendin taking about 4 hours. I took a bus leaving from the Rojas terminal on Atahualpa (10s). From Celendin to Chachapoyas, there is a bus 2ce a week on Thursdays and Sundays leaving at 11am. There are plenty of places to stay, eat and do internet in Celendin. See the Balsas section for information on the place. I was lucky enough to bird Hacienda Limon site with Fernando Angulo and Frank Lambert and go up in their vehicle. It's about 22km to get up there from Chacanto and too far to walk really. You could get off the bus from Celendin and camp there. The 2 targets, Chestnut-backed Thornbird and Grey-winged Inca Finch are fairly easy to see. For the thornbird, turn right towards the little hamlet of Limon. At a bend before the houses, check the Acacia trees for the thornbird. Many areas with Acacia trees, which the bird seems to require, have been cut down but the bird still seems fairly common here. For the inca-finch go past the turn-off, a little further the road. At a right bend there is an area of scrub on a hill side which has the finch. Thornbird is also present in Acacias here.
I saw 21 species including 3 lifers

Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata
Croaking Ground-Dove Columbina cruziana
Bare-faced Ground-Dove Metriopelia ceciliae
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi
Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia Heard only
Purple-collared Woodstar Myrtis fanny Heard only
Chestnut-backed Thornbird Phacellodomus dorsalis Endemic Vulnerable
Vermilion Flycatcher Pyrocephalus rubinus
Fasciated Wren Campylorhynchus fasciatus
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Long-tailed Mockingbird Mimus longicaudatus
Chiguanco Thrush Turdus chiguanco
Maranon Thrush Turdus maranonicus Endemic
Tropical Gnatcatcher Polioptila plumbea
Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus
Gray-winged Inca-Finch Incaspiza ortizi Endemic Vulnerable
Drab Seedeater Sporophila simplex
Golden-bellied Grosbeak Pheucticus chrysogaster
Peruvian Meadowlark Sturnella bellicosa
Hooded Siskin Carduelis magellanica


34. Abra Chanchillo, Amazonas       19th June, 2006

   I visited this site with Fernando Angulo and Frank Lambert and got a lift up in their vehicle. It was about an hour and a half to 2 hour drive from Balsas towards Chachapoyas and would be difficult to get there without your own transport. The road winds up and passes a few buildings and entering a new valley. Here there is space to leave a vehicle. You can look down into the valley and see forest, a few houses and cultivated land below. A little further on is the beginning of a trail down. The first part of the trail was some very surprising cloud forest whose days would appear to be numbered. They are building a road down the hill towards a mine which is bad news for the forest. This is definately worth exploring. A few interesting species we saw here were Streaked Tuftedcheek, Black-crested and Russet-crowned Warblers, Golden-rumped Euphonia, Masked Yellowthroat, Bluish Flowerpiercer, Cloud-forest and Stripe-headed Brush-Finches.
   Further down, the forest gets drier with more Acacia. Here we heard Chestnut-backed Thornbird (maybe only 1 pair) and saw Aplomado Falcon, Line-cheeked Spinetail, Chestnut-crowned Antpitta, Buff-bellied & Silver-backed Tanagers, Green Jay and Black-and-white Becard. The site is a strange mix of humid and dry habitats and certainly merits more exploration.
I saw 39 species including 1 lifer

Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Aplomado Falcon Falco femoralis
Band-tailed Pigeon Patagioenas fasciata
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi
Scarlet-fronted Parakeet Aratinga wagleri
Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia Heard only
Sparkling Violet-ear Colibri coruscans
Spot-throated Hummingbird Leucippus taczanowskii Endemic
Andean Emerald Agyrtria franciae
Speckled Hummingbird Adelomyia melanogenys
Purple-collared Woodstar Myrtis fanny Heard only
Azara's Spinetail Synallaxis azarae Heard only
Line-cheeked Spinetail Cranioleuca antisiensis
Chestnut-backed Thornbird Phacellodomus dorsalis Endemic Vulnerable Heard only
Streaked Tuftedcheek Pseudocolaptes boissonneautii
Chestnut-crowned Antpitta Grallaria ruficapilla
Mouse-colored Tyrannulet Phaeomyias murina
Dusky-capped Flycatcher Myiarchus tuberculifer Heard only
Black-and-white Becard Pachyramphus albogriseus
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Great Thrush Turdus fuscater
Tropical Gnatcatcher Polioptila plumbea
Green Jay Cyanocorax yncas
Masked Yellowthroat Geothlypis aequinoctialis
Slate-throated Redstart Myioborus miniatus
Black-crested Warbler Basileuterus nigrocristatus
Russet-crowned Warbler Basileuterus coronatus Heard only
Buff-bellied Tanager Thlypopsis inornata Endemic
Golden-rumped Euphonia Euphonia cyanocephala
Silver-backed Tanager Tangara viridicollis
Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina
Drab Seedeater Sporophila simplex
Bluish Flowerpiercer Diglossopis caerulescens
Yellow-breasted Brush-Finch Atlapetes latinuchus
Stripe-headed Brush-Finch Buarremon torquatus
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Streaked Saltator Saltator striatipectus


35. Balsas, Cajamarca       19-20th June, 2006

   We reached Balsas on a twice weekly bus from Celendin to Chachapoyas which took about 4 hours. Buses from Celendin leave for Chachapoyas and beyond at 11am on Thursdays and Saturdays. The ride took about 2 hours and passed by the Hacienda Limon site. Balsas is a 20 minute walk from the bridge at Chacanto. A lady living accross from (and working in) the hospital in Balsas rents out rooms cheaply (8s for a bed, regardless of the number of people in it). There is also accomodation in Chacanto which also has a couple of basic restaurants. There are a couple of small shops but no restaurants in Balsas, but I heard there is someone who can prepare meals on request. We cooked for ourselves. There are phones in Balsas and Chacanto but no internet.
   There is good birding within walking distance of the town. You can walk from Balsas (away from Chacanto) along the river for about half an hour to the end of the road. Along here I heard Yellow-faced Parrotlet and saw a Peruvian Pigeon perched on top of a mango tree in the evening. Also White-shouldered Tanager. The next morning I walked back to Chacanto seeing Mara�on Thrush on the way. Without crossing the bridge, carry on along the road by the river. This forks, the right carrying along by the river where I saw Peruvian Pygmy-owl and Peruvian Pigeon. The left goes up a valley, passed a mango tree plantation on the left. After this there is a house on the left just passed which I got great views of Yellow-faced Parrotlet and Peruvian Pigeon. Further on we saw a pair of Black-chested Buzzard-Eagles.
I saw 31 species including 2 lifers

Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle Geranoaetus melanoleucus
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris
American Kestrel Falco sparverius
Peruvian Pigeon Patagioenas oenops Endemic Vulnerable
Croaking Ground-Dove Columbina cruziana
Bare-faced Ground-Dove Metriopelia ceciliae
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi
Scarlet-fronted Parakeet Aratinga wagleri
Yellow-faced Parrotlet Forpus xanthops Endemic Vulnerable
Groove-billed Ani Crotophaga sulcirostris Possibly seen
Peruvian Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium peruanum
Andean Emerald Agyrtria franciae
Black-necked Woodpecker Colaptes atricollis Endemic
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet Camptostoma obsoletum
Tawny-crowned Pygmy-Tyrant Euscarthmus meloryphus
Vermilion Flycatcher Pyrocephalus rubinus
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Fasciated Wren Campylorhynchus fasciatus
Long-tailed Mockingbird Mimus longicaudatus
Maranon Thrush Turdus maranonicus Endemic
Tropical Gnatcatcher Polioptila plumbea
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola
White-shouldered Tanager Tachyphonus luctuosus
Hepatic Tanager Piranga flava
Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus
Purple-throated Euphonia Euphonia chlorotica
Streaked Saltator Saltator striatipectus
Golden-bellied Grosbeak Pheucticus chrysogaster
Yellow-tailed Oriole Icterus mesomelas


36. Leimebamba, Amazonas       21st June, 2006

   Leimebamba is a small town between Celendin and Chachapoyas. I managed to catch a comfortable combi from Balsas on a Tuesday which left at 2pm and cost 20s. There seems to be some form of transport passing along the road most days. Ask locally for more information. The drawback of public transport is that you can't stop along the way to bird. Leimebamba has several places to eat and stay and even a very slow internet cafe. We stayed at a hospedaje on the plaza which was 20s for a double.
   The site near Leimebamba we wanted to visit was a place described in Valqui about 17km from Leimebamba on the way back towards Celendin. There is little traffic along this road but there are taxis in town which could take you up there. Ask to go to 'Hipa�a' which is just a small group of houses. We decided to walk and hitch which meant that we didn't get there until until about 11am which was too late. We got a few rides along the road with cars and trucks.
I saw 44 species including 2 lifers

Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Red-backed Hawk Buteo polyosoma
Mountain Caracara Phalcoboenus megalopterus
American Kestrel Falco sparverius
Andean Lapwing Vanellus resplendens
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi Heard only
Scarlet-fronted Parakeet Aratinga wagleri
Band-winged Nightjar Caprimulgus longirostris
Green Violet-ear Colibri thalassinus
Sparkling Violet-ear Colibri coruscans
Spot-throated Hummingbird Leucippus taczanowskii Endemic
Andean Emerald Agyrtria franciae
Shining Sunbeam Aglaeactis cupripennis
Purple-throated Sunangel Heliangelus viola
Sapphire-vented Puffleg Eriocnemis luciani
Tyrian Metaltail Metallura tyrianthina
Long-tailed Sylph Aglaiocercus kingi
Purple-collared Woodstar Myrtis fanny
Andean Flicker Colaptes rupicola Heard only
Azara's Spinetail Synallaxis azarae Heard only
Pearled Treerunner Margarornis squamiger
Streaked Tuftedcheek Pseudocolaptes boissonneautii
Sierran Elaenia Elaenia pallatangae
White-banded Tyrannulet Mecocerculus stictopterus
Black-throated Tody-Tyrant Hemitriccus granadensis
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Brown-bellied Swallow Notiochelidon murina
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Mountain Wren Troglodytes solstitialis
Great Thrush Turdus fuscater
Slate-throated Redstart Myioborus miniatus
Spectacled Redstart Myioborus melanocephalus
Black-crested Warbler Basileuterus nigrocristatus Heard only
Superciliaried Hemispingus Hemispingus superciliaris
Blue-capped Tanager Thraupis cyanocephala
Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus igniventris
Blue-and-black Tanager Tangara vassorii
Black-and-white Seedeater Sporophila luctuosa
Plain-colored Seedeater Catamenia inornata
Dull-colored Grassquit Tiaris obscura
Yellow-breasted Brush-Finch Atlapetes latinuchus
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Hooded Siskin Carduelis magellanica


37. Pedro Ruiz, Amazonas       22nd June, 2006

   Pedro Luis is reached easily being on the main route between Chiclayo and Tarapoto. I went there from Leimbamba from where combis leave the plaza daily at 3 and 4am and cost 10s. Buy your tickets the day before. The journey takes 1 and a half to 2 hours. There are a few places to stay, eat and do internet. Of the 2 places to stay on the main road, Hospedaje Amazonense is the cheaper where a double costs 15s.
   My target her was the vulnerable Little Woodstar which can be seen about 4km away in Suyubamba. Take a motor-tricycle there for 3s privately or 1s each in a group. There is a bridge called 'Puente Suyubamba' before which on the left is a small garden with many flowers good for hummers like Long-billed Starthroat. Go over the bridge and up the hill out of town. Pass the Suyubamba sign coming the other way and look for a small trail on the right which goes through a nice shade coffee plantation. Walk along hr for 5 minutes to a fork where the right doubles back up the hill. Here was good for several species of hummers including Little Woodstar.
I saw 37 species including 5 lifers

Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Peruvian Pigeon Patagioenas oenops Endemic Vulnerable
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi Heard only
Scarlet-fronted Parakeet Aratinga wagleri
White-winged Parakeet Brotogeris versicolurus
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana
White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris
Tawny-bellied Hermit Phaethornis syrmatophorus
Reddish Hermit Phaethornis ruber
Brown Violet-ear Colibri delphinae
White-bellied Hummingbird Leucippus chionogaster
Andean Emerald Agyrtria franciae Possibly seen
Long-billed Starthroat Heliomaster longirostris
Little Woodstar Chaetocercus bombus Vulnerable
Plain Antvireo Dysithamnus mentalis
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet Camptostoma obsoletum
Yellow-bellied Elaenia Elaenia flavogaster
Small-billed Elaenia Elaenia parvirostris Possibly seen
Torrent Tyrannulet Serpophaga cinerea
Black Phoebe Sayornis nigricans
Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Yellow-cheeked Becard Pachyramphus xanthogenys
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Green Jay Cyanocorax yncas
Red-eyed Vireo Vireo olivaceus
Masked Yellowthroat Geothlypis aequinoctialis
Slate-throated Redstart Myioborus miniatus
Three-striped Warbler Basileuterus tristriatus
Buff-bellied Tanager Thlypopsis inornata Endemic
Hepatic Tanager Piranga flava
Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus
Purple-throated Euphonia Euphonia chlorotica
Blue-necked Tanager Tangara cyanicollis
Silver-backed Tanager Tangara viridicollis
Streaked Saltator Saltator striatipectus


38. Pomacochas & Marvellous Spatuletail site, Amazonas       22nd & 24th June, 2006

   This area is famous for the endangered endemic Marvellous Spatuletail. There are several places to stay in Florida Pomacochas. We stayed at 'El Paraiso' which was 20s for a double. The bathroom is shared but water very hot. Go down the hill from the 'comisaria'. There is internet in town but the connection is slow.
   From Pomacochas head back towards Pedro Ruiz. Pass the turn off for Chido after 3km and continue down the hill. 6km down from Pomacochas is a sharp bend with a couple of houses. Here, turn right off the road and walk down a trail. About 5-10 minutes down, look for bushes with long, red tubular flowers on the right. Here we saw a spectacular male. If you see a 10 year-old boy called Salomon he can show you where they are. A couple of hundred metres up from the bend are the same flowers on steep slops by the road. Here we saw only juvenile males.
I saw 31 species including 2 lifers

Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi
Scarlet-fronted Parakeet Aratinga wagleri
Speckle-faced Parrot Pionus tumultuosus
Green Violet-ear Colibri thalassinus
Sparkling Violet-ear Colibri coruscans
Tyrian Metaltail Metallura tyrianthina Possibly seen
Marvelous Spatuletail Loddigesia mirabilis Endemic Endangered
Purple-collared Woodstar Myrtis fanny
Azara's Spinetail Synallaxis azarae Heard only
Rufous-capped Antshrike Thamnophilus ruficapillus Heard only
White-crested Elaenia Elaenia albiceps
Streak-necked Flycatcher Mionectes striaticollis
Smoke-colored Pewee Contopus fumigatus
Pale-edged Flycatcher Myiarchus cephalotes
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Andean Solitaire Myadestes ralloides Heard only
Great Thrush Turdus fuscater
Green Jay Cyanocorax yncas
Slate-throated Redstart Myioborus miniatus
Spectacled Redstart Myioborus melanocephalus
Three-striped Warbler Basileuterus tristriatus
Rufous-crested Tanager Creurgops verticalis
Blue-capped Tanager Thraupis cyanocephala
Silver-backed Tanager Tangara viridicollis
Yellow-breasted Brush-Finch Atlapetes latinuchus
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Streaked Saltator Saltator striatipectus
Lesser Goldfinch Carduelis psaltria


39. Rio Chido Trail,       23rd June, 2006

   The Rio Chido trail starts about 3km down from Pomacochas (back towards Pedro Ruiz) and can be easily reached by motor-tricycle or you can walk. From the left bend in the road after Puente Chido, take the wide gravel track up towards San Lorenzo. This trail has some trees on the other side of the river as you walk up and we saw a few nice flocks of birds. Before you reach the bridge over the river higher up, take a left turn where a steeps mud trail leads up. I found the map in Valqui a little confusing but just try and stay on the most trodded trail and keep going up. It can be a depressing walk with all the habitat destruction but even the semi-open habitats have some interesting birds like Emerald Toucanet, Grey-breasted Mountain-Toucan and White-sided Flowerpiercer.
   After reaching a large clearing with with some houses you enter a nice patch of forest where we saw Long-tailed Antbird. You enter another clearing after this. From here stick to the right of the clearing past a concrete cattle trough and a cattle trail leads into more forest climbing up steeply. This seems not to be the trail mentioned in Valqui but still has good birding. We had a good mized flock at the beginning with Plushcap, Peruvian Wren, White-browed Hemispingus. Also an unidentified funarid with a rufous round-tipped tail that may have been a softtail. Climbing up this trail you get to a very birdy spot where it flattens out. Here I saw Mountain Cacique, White-collared Jay plus several species of Tanagers. Despite the habitat destruction, the remaining forested areas are definately worth more exploration. It is a tough walk that takes a full day.
I saw 52 species including 2 lifers

Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris
Red-backed Hawk Buteo polyosoma
American Kestrel Falco sparverius
Speckle-faced Parrot Pionus tumultuosus
Green Violet-ear Colibri thalassinus
Sparkling Violet-ear Colibri coruscans
Chestnut-breasted Coronet Boissonneaua matthewsii
Collared Inca Coeligena torquata
Violet-throated Starfrontlet Coeligena violifer
Amethyst-throated Sunangel Heliangelus amethysticollis
Tyrian Metaltail Metallura tyrianthina
Long-tailed Sylph Aglaiocercus kingi
Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan Andigena hypoglauca Near-threatened
Andean Toucanet Aulacorhynchus albivitta
Crimson-mantled Woodpecker Piculus rivolii
Azara's Spinetail Synallaxis azarae
Pearled Treerunner Margarornis squamiger
Streaked Tuftedcheek Pseudocolaptes boissonneautii
Montane Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes lacrymiger
Rufous-capped Antshrike Thamnophilus ruficapillus Heard only
Long-tailed Antbird Drymophila caudata
Large-footed Tapaculo Scytalopus macropus Endemic
White-crested Elaenia Elaenia albiceps
White-throated Tyrannulet Mecocerculus leucophrys
White-banded Tyrannulet Mecocerculus stictopterus
Cinnamon Flycatcher Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea
Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca rufipectoralis
Smoky Bush-Tyrant Myiotheretes fumigatus
Barred Becard Pachyramphus versicolor
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Peruvian Wren Cinnycerthia peruana Endemic
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Andean Solitaire Myadestes ralloides Heard only
Great Thrush Turdus fuscater
White-collared Jay Cyanolyca viridicyana
Citrine Warbler Basileuterus luteoviridis
Three-striped Warbler Basileuterus tristriatus
Blue-backed Conebill Conirostrum sitticolor
Grass-green Tanager Chlorornis riefferii
Blue-capped Tanager Thraupis cyanocephala
Hooded Mountain-Tanager Buthraupis montana
Lacrimose Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus lacrymosus
Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus igniventris
Plush-capped Finch Catamblyrhynchus diadema
White-browed Hemispingus Hemispingus auricularis Endemic
White-sided Flowerpiercer Diglossa albilatera
Masked Flowerpiercer Diglossopis cyanea
Yellow-breasted Brush-Finch Atlapetes latinuchus
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Mountain Cacique Cacicus chrysonotus


40. Abra Patricia & Valle Hermoso, San Martin       24th-25th June, 2006

   Abra Patricia is a great birding spot easily accessed by public transport from Pomacochas. Look for white colectivo taxis waiting by the side of the road. Some only go as far as El Progreso but you can pay a bit extra to get them to take you to the Abra which is about 40km and takes less than an hour. We paid 7s each to get to El Paraiso, an abandoned restaurant 3km below the Abra. You can pitch a tent inside of the old restaurant which has a padlock on the door so your stuff is safe. The key is available from the the guardaparques at the Restaurant Chanchita just before the Abra. Also, there is possibly accomodation (or camping space) at the restaurant which would probably be a better place to stay. ECOAN is in the process of building accomodation but I don't know when it will be ready.
   The km markers have all changed and the Abra is now near the km364 marker. You can pay the guardaparques to guide for you and show you the 3 trails currently available for use. We only explored the Grallaria trail which was very good. The start of the trail is a little difficult to find on your own. After you pass the km364 marker look for the first small hill on the left. The trail goes into this. Birding is also good along the road from the abra down. There is another small trail going right (coming down) accross from El Paraiso, along a stream which seems to be the only source of water around here. 1km further down from El Paraiso is a left bend with a few houses valled Valle Hermoso. Here a small trail goes right into a valley. Most of the big trees have been removed but there are still a few good birds to be seen. In Valqui, it was written that Long-whiskered Owlet was alledgedly heard here. We walked the trail at night but heard nothing.
I saw 45 species including 6 lifers

Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris
Plumbeous Pigeon Patagioenas plumbea
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi
Scaly-naped Parrot Amazona mercenaria
Speckled Hummingbird Adelomyia melanogenys
Chestnut-breasted Coronet Boissonneaua matthewsii
Emerald-bellied Puffleg Eriocnemis alinae
Long-tailed Sylph Aglaiocercus kingi
Andean Toucanet Aulacorhynchus albivitta
Smoky-brown Woodpecker Veniliornis fumigatus
Crimson-mantled Woodpecker Piculus rivolii
Azara's Spinetail Synallaxis azarae
Variable Antshrike Thamnophilus caerulescens
Long-tailed Antbird Drymophila caudata
Rusty-tinged Antpitta Grallaria przewalskii Endemic Heard only
Rusty-breasted Antpitta Grallaricula ferrugineipectus
Rufous-vented Tapaculo Scytalopus femoralis Endemic Heard only
White-crested Elaenia Elaenia albiceps
Streak-necked Flycatcher Mionectes striaticollis
Golden-faced Tyrannulet Zimmerius chrysops
Black-throated Tody-Tyrant Hemitriccus granadensis
Cinnamon Flycatcher Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea
Maroon-chested Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca thoracica Heard only
Barred Becard Pachyramphus versicolor
Sharpe's Wren Cinnycerthia olivascens
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Gray-breasted Wood-Wren Henicorhina leucophrys
Andean Solitaire Myadestes ralloides Heard only
Great Thrush Turdus fuscater
Green Jay Cyanocorax yncas
Slaty-capped Shrike-Vireo Vireolanius leucotis
Spectacled Redstart Myioborus melanocephalus
White-capped Tanager Sericossypha albocristata
Common Bush-Tanager Chlorospingus ophthalmicus
Blue-capped Tanager Thraupis cyanocephala
Hooded Mountain-Tanager Buthraupis montana
Flame-faced Tanager Tangara parzudakii
Beryl-spangled Tanager Tangara nigroviridis
Blue-and-black Tanager Tangara vassorii
White-browed Hemispingus Hemispingus auricularis Endemic
Masked Flowerpiercer Diglossopis cyanea
Yellow-breasted Brush-Finch Atlapetes latinuchus
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis


41. Alto Nieva, San Martin       26th & 29th June, 2006

   In the Valqui guide, it said that Alto Nieva was 14km further down from Abra Patricia whereas in fact it is only about 10km. All the old km markers have also been changed. From Valle Hermoso which is now at km368, another 2-3km down between km370 and 371 you cross Puente Nieva. This spot is meant to be quite good birding but we passed here at midday and it was pretty quiet. At about km373 you pass some cliffs on the right of the road which have Cliff Flycatcher and White-tipped Swifts. After this on the left, there is a locked gate where the road bends round to the right. The key (and a guide) can be organized with the Guardaparques up at the Restaurante Chanchita. This gate is the start of a couple of trails into the new ECOAN Abra Patricia Reserve.
   Go through the gate and left takes you up to a mirador with a spectacular view over the valley below. I saw Chectnut-collared Swifts from here and this is one of the spots where Royal Sunangel can be seen. From here, one trail continues along the ridge. A short distance along here is where we saw Royal Sunangel several times at just 2-3 metres. This trail goes on for some time before getting very steep, overgrown and ending in a clearing at the end. Along this trail I had Long-tailed Sylph, Bar-winged Wood-Wren and Yellow-throated Tanager. If you don't the Royal Sunangel here, go back to the road and look up the slope on the other side where it had also been seen. Still no luck, walk several hundred metres back along the road to where the road cuts through the ridge which has similar habitat.
   Back at the gate, you can take anoter trail down to the right which comes to a clearing and continues on into a small patch of good forest. At the bottom we saw Green-fronted Lancebill and Rufous-vented Whitetip. At the top and on the way down, I saw some mixed flocks including Rufous-crested, Flame-faced and Silver-backed Tanagers, Bluish and Deep-blue Flowerpiercers and Black-and-green Fruiteater. One evening I walked the other way from Alto Nieva, up a hill and round to the left. After this there is a small trail on the left that goes down then up again into forest. In Valqui it is marked as the trail to the Type-locality of the Ochre-fronted Antpitta. I went here at night owling but only saw Lyra-tailed Nightjar.
   In Alto Nieva, ask for a man named Jose who has a small shop. He also owns a building next door that used to be a restaurant. It has an earth floor where you can pitch a tent. I payed him 10s for the use.
  
I saw 41 species including 4 lifers

Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris
Aplomado Falcon Falco femoralis
Scarlet-fronted Parakeet Aratinga wagleri Possibly seen
Scaly-naped Parrot Amazona mercenaria
Lyre-tailed Nightjar Uropsalis lyra
Chestnut-collared Swift Streptoprocne rutila
White-tipped Swift Aeronautes montivagus
Green-fronted Lancebill Doryfera ludovicae
Royal Sunangel Heliangelus regalis Endemic Endangered
Rufous-vented Whitetip Urosticte ruficrissa
Long-tailed Sylph Aglaiocercus kingi
Azara's Spinetail Synallaxis azarae Heard only
Pearled Treerunner Margarornis squamiger
Long-tailed Antbird Drymophila caudata
Green-and-black Fruiteater Pipreola riefferii
White-crested Elaenia Elaenia albiceps
Mottle-cheeked Tyrannulet Phylloscartes ventralis Possibly seen
Ornate Flycatcher Myiotriccus ornatus
Cinnamon Flycatcher Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea
Cliff Flycatcher Hirundinea ferruginea
Smoke-colored Pewee Contopus fumigatus
Rufous-tailed Tyrant Knipolegus poecilurus
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Bar-winged Wood-Wren Henicorhina leucoptera Endemic Near-threatened
Andean Solitaire Myadestes ralloides Heard only
Green Jay Cyanocorax yncas
Slate-throated Redstart Myioborus miniatus
Three-striped Warbler Basileuterus tristriatus
Rufous-crested Tanager Creurgops verticalis
Blue-capped Tanager Thraupis cyanocephala
Yellow-throated Tanager Iridosornis analis
Bronze-green Euphonia Euphonia mesochrysa
Saffron-crowned Tanager Tangara xanthocephala
Flame-faced Tanager Tangara parzudakii
Beryl-spangled Tanager Tangara nigroviridis
Silver-backed Tanager Tangara viridicollis
Deep-blue Flowerpiercer Diglossopis glauca
Bluish Flowerpiercer Diglossopis caerulescens
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Mountain Cacique Cacicus chrysonotus


42. LSU camp, San Martin       27th-28th June, 2006

   From Alto Nieva walk about 1km to a restaurant called Chanchita. From here you get a nice view over the lower section of the valley. Scan here for Raptors. I saw White-throated Hawk and Swallow-tailed Kite soaring by. From here, it's about another 4km down to a bend with a couple of houses. This used to be at km 389 but would now be at km378. The road here was under repair though and there was no marker. At the house as for Juan Rojas or nearby for Ronald Espinar who could be employed as guides. An admission to the trail may also be charged. We were unlucky with the weather and got rained on heavily. The trail is fairly straight forward but at the first quebrada don't cross straight over where a small trail continues passed a small pond on the right. Instead, walk down the quebrada about 50m to where the trail continues on the other side. From here it is a good trail. The number of quebradas on the map in Valqui corresponds to the rivers and not the several small streams that cross the trail. After another fairly large river crossing, you get to a large open area where you can camp. I assume this was the LSU camp used in 2002. It was very boggy but a flat, elevated area on the right with a wooden frame had better draining.
   The trail on the way there passed through some nice forest and the forest edge around the camp had excellent birding in the morning with good mixed flocks. I also heard Rufous-sided Crake in the clearing. Another good spot was just 5 minutes along the trail from the main road where I had an excellent tanager flock, including Blue-naped Chlorophonia, Straw-backed, Vermillion, Orange-eared and Metallic-green Tanagers. My plan was to follow the instructions in Valqui and go up to a place called Utter Solitude to look for Ochre-fronted Antpitta and Long-whiskered Owlet but from the camp site another river was a gushing torrent and I couldnt pass.
I saw 40 species including 9 lifers

Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Swallow-tailed Kite Elanoides forficatus
Barred Hawk Leucopternis princeps Rare/Accidental
Short-tailed Hawk Buteo brachyurus
Rufous-sided Crake Laterallus melanophaius
Plumbeous Pigeon Patagioenas plumbea Seen nearby
Scarlet-fronted Parakeet Aratinga wagleri Possibly seen
Booted Racket-tail Ocreatus underwoodii
Long-tailed Sylph Aglaiocercus kingi
Golden-olive Woodpecker Piculus rubiginosus
Ash-browed Spinetail Cranioleuca curtata
Rufous-rumped Antwren Terenura callinota
Large-footed Tapaculo Scytalopus macropus Endemic
Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant Pogonotriccus ophthalmicus Possibly seen
Sulphur-bellied Tyrannulet Mecocerculus minor Possibly seen
Cinnamon Flycatcher Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea
Rufous-tailed Tyrant Knipolegus poecilurus
Barred Becard Pachyramphus versicolor
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Bar-winged Wood-Wren Henicorhina leucoptera Endemic Near-threatened
Andean Solitaire Myadestes ralloides Heard only
Great Thrush Turdus fuscater Heard only
Green Jay Cyanocorax yncas
Slate-throated Redstart Myioborus miniatus
Three-striped Warbler Basileuterus tristriatus
Ashy-throated Bush-Tanager Chlorospingus canigularis
Vermilion Tanager Calochaetes coccineus
Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus somptuosus
Orange-bellied Euphonia Euphonia xanthogaster
Blue-naped Chlorophonia Chlorophonia cyanea
Orange-eared Tanager Chlorochrysa calliparaea
Saffron-crowned Tanager Tangara xanthocephala
Flame-faced Tanager Tangara parzudakii
Metallic-green Tanager Tangara labradorides
Blue-necked Tanager Tangara cyanicollis
Beryl-spangled Tanager Tangara nigroviridis
Straw-backed Tanager Tangara argyrofenges
Black-and-white Seedeater Sporophila luctuosa Heard only
Scarlet-rumped Cacique Cacicus uropygialis
Dusky-green Oropendola Psarocolius atrovirens


43. Affluente, San Martin       29th June, 2006

   The next good site down the road is 3km before the small town of Affluentes. The place to bird used to between the km400 and 402 markers but the markers have changed by 11km making it between km389 and 391. This area is where the road goes over a little pass and there is a restaurant/garage. The food here is pretty good (4s) and the family even let us pitch our tent inside the restaurant once they had closed for the night. Birding here is excellent in the morning on either side of the restaurant with many large mixed flocks. We also had Ecuadorian Piedtail by the roadside feeding on small red flowers just 50m back towards Abra Patricia.
  
I saw 65 species including 14 lifers

Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Swallow-tailed Kite Elanoides forficatus
Speckled Chachalaca Ortalis guttata
Plumbeous Pigeon Patagioenas plumbea
Scarlet-fronted Parakeet Aratinga wagleri
White-tipped Swift Aeronautes montivagus
Gray-chinned Hermit Phaethornis griseogularis
Blue-fronted Lancebill Doryfera johannae
Ecuadorian Piedtail Phlogophilus hemileucurus Near-threatened
Booted Racket-tail Ocreatus underwoodii
Collared Trogon Trogon collaris
Black-mandibled Toucan Ramphastos ambiguus Heard only
Speckle-chested Piculet Picumnus steindachneri Endemic Vulnerable
Smoky-brown Woodpecker Veniliornis fumigatus
Equatorial Graytail Xenerpestes singularis Near-threatened
Streaked Xenops Xenops rutilans
Montane Foliage-gleaner Anabacerthia striaticollis
Olive-backed Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus triangularis
Barred Antshrike Thamnophilus doliatus
Russet Antshrike Thamnistes anabatinus
Slaty Antwren Myrmotherula schisticolor
Andean Cock-of-the-rock Rupicola peruviana
Golden-winged Manakin Masius chrysopterus
Torrent Tyrannulet Serpophaga cinerea Seen nearby
Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant Pogonotriccus ophthalmicus
Spectacled Bristle-Tyrant Pogonotriccus orbitalis Heard only
Plumbeous-crowned Tyrannulet Phyllomyias plumbeiceps
Golden-faced Tyrannulet Zimmerius chrysops
Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant Lophotriccus pileatus
Common Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum cinereum
Ornate Flycatcher Myiotriccus ornatus
White-winged Black-Tyrant Knipolegus aterrimus
Pale-edged Flycatcher Myiarchus cephalotes
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Yellow-cheeked Becard Pachyramphus xanthogenys
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
Gray-mantled Wren Odontorchilus branickii
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Andean Solitaire Myadestes ralloides Heard only
White-necked Thrush Turdus albicollis Possibly seen
Green Jay Cyanocorax yncas
Olivaceous Greenlet Hylophilus olivaceus
Tropical Parula Parula pitiayumi
Slate-throated Redstart Myioborus miniatus
Three-striped Warbler Basileuterus tristriatus
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola
Magpie Tanager Cissopis leveriana
White-winged Tanager Piranga leucoptera
Huallaga Tanager Ramphocelus melanogaster Endemic
Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus
Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum
Orange-bellied Euphonia Euphonia xanthogaster
Orange-eared Tanager Chlorochrysa calliparaea
Paradise Tanager Tangara chilensis
Green-and-gold Tanager Tangara schrankii
Golden Tanager Tangara arthus
Saffron-crowned Tanager Tangara xanthocephala
Flame-faced Tanager Tangara parzudakii
Bay-headed Tanager Tangara gyrola
Metallic-green Tanager Tangara labradorides
Blue-necked Tanager Tangara cyanicollis
Beryl-spangled Tanager Tangara nigroviridis
Purple Honeycreeper Cyanerpes caeruleus Seen nearby
Scarlet-rumped Cacique Cacicus uropygialis
Dusky-green Oropendola Psarocolius atrovirens


44. Aguas Verdes, San Martin       30th June, 2006

   The next good stop down the road is called Aguas Verdes. There is a bridge of the same name and a restaurant just after this on the left. There is no accomodation but the restaurant people will let you camp in their yard and food is available. At dawn and dusk, Lyre-tailed Nightjar can be seen and more easily heard from in front of the restaurant. Other larger nightbirds flying at dusk were possibly Oilbirds. From the restaurant, walk towards the bridge (from where you can see White-capped Dipper) and turn left on a trail before it. This goes for quite a way and has some interesting birds like Olivaceous Greenlet, Inca Flycatcher and Slaty-capped Flycatcher. Accross the bridge and up the hill you will get to a trail turning left off the main road. This should be good in the morning and one of our group saw Amazonian Umbrellbird. The mainroad is also worth birding and we saw some interesting hummers. We tried another trail down towards Rioja turning right by some houses. The trail goes up through some forest but it was very quiet when we were there. Maybe we were just unlucky.
  
I saw 64 species including 3 lifers

Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris Heard only
Scaled Pigeon Patagioenas speciosa
Plumbeous Pigeon Patagioenas plumbea
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi
White-eyed Parakeet Aratinga leucophthalmus
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia Heard only
Lyre-tailed Nightjar Uropsalis lyra
Reddish Hermit Phaethornis ruber
Blue-fronted Lancebill Doryfera johannae
Blue-chinned Sapphire Chlorostilbon notatus
Fork-tailed Woodnymph Thalurania furcata
Golden-tailed Sapphire Chrysuronia oenone
Many-spotted Hummingbird Leucippus hypostictus
Chestnut-eared Aracari Pteroglossus castanotis
Black-mandibled Toucan Ramphastos ambiguus
Little Woodpecker Veniliornis passerinus
Montane Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes lacrymiger
Great Antshrike Taraba major Heard only
Plain Antvireo Dysithamnus mentalis
Stripe-chested Antwren Myrmotherula longicauda
White-crowned Tapaculo Scytalopus atratus
Andean Cock-of-the-rock Rupicola peruviana
Inca Flycatcher Leptopogon taczanowskii Endemic
Slaty-capped Flycatcher Leptopogon superciliaris
Golden-faced Tyrannulet Zimmerius chrysops
Rufous-tailed Tyrant Knipolegus poecilurus
White-winged Black-Tyrant Knipolegus aterrimus
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua
Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculatus
White-winged Becard Pachyramphus polychopterus
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
White-capped Dipper Cinclus leucocephalus
Black-capped Donacobius Donacobius atricapilla
Thrush-like Wren Campylorhynchus turdinus
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Gray-breasted Wood-Wren Henicorhina leucophrys Heard only
Scaly-breasted Wren Microcerculus marginatus Heard only
Black-billed Thrush Turdus ignobilis
Red-eyed Vireo Vireo olivaceus
Olivaceous Greenlet Hylophilus olivaceus
Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis Heard only
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola
Black-faced Tanager Schistochlamys melanopis
Yellow-throated Bush-Tanager Chlorospingus flavigularis
Ashy-throated Bush-Tanager Chlorospingus canigularis
Huallaga Tanager Ramphocelus melanogaster Endemic
Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus
Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum
Purple-throated Euphonia Euphonia chlorotica
Orange-bellied Euphonia Euphonia xanthogaster
Paradise Tanager Tangara chilensis
Green-and-gold Tanager Tangara schrankii
Spotted Tanager Tangara punctata
Blue-necked Tanager Tangara cyanicollis
Yellow-browed Sparrow Ammodramus aurifrons
Grayish Saltator Saltator coerulescens
Buff-throated Saltator Saltator maximus
Venezuelan Troupial Icterus icterus
Yellow-rumped Cacique Cacicus cela
Dusky-green Oropendola Psarocolius atrovirens
Hooded Siskin Carduelis magellanica


45. Yacumama, near Rioja, San Martin       1st July, 2006

   Rioja which is a small city with several places to eat, sleep and do internet. We stayed at the 'Rioca' at 20s for a double. Yacumama is a 'tourist complex' about about 10-15 minutes drive towards Pomacochas from Rioja. There is a large sign on the main road where you turn right. The entrance is about 5 minutes from the main road. We went there in a car but you could easily catch a taxi or motor-tricycle. If it is not open first thing, you can walk along the track to the left of the entrance which goes along forest edge and open forest and has some very interesting birds including Capped Heron, Russet-crowned and Rufous-sided Crakes (both heard only), Crimson-crested Woodpecker, Pale-breasted Spinetail and Common Thornbird . In the complex itself, there are many palm trees good for Point-tailed Palmcreeper. Also there are some small lakes with kingfishers and the trail ends at a so called 'beach' by the Rio Negro from where we saw Striated Heron and Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture. In trees around the lakes we saw Lafresnayes Piculet, Dark-billed and Little Cuckoos and by the entrance we saw Gilded Barbet, Chestnut-breasted Seedeater and Chestnut-bellied Seed-Finch. There is a 1s fee to enter the complex.
  
I saw 65 species including 6 lifers

Capped Heron Pilherodius pileatus
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Striated Heron Butorides striata
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes burrovianus
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris
Black Caracara Daptrius ater
Barred Forest-Falcon Micrastur ruficollis Heard only
Speckled Chachalaca Ortalis guttata
Russet-crowned Crake Anurolimnas viridis Heard only
Rufous-sided Crake Laterallus melanophaius Heard only
Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana Seen nearby
Plumbeous Pigeon Patagioenas plumbea Heard only
Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti
Blue Ground-Dove Claravis pretiosa
Cobalt-winged Parakeet Brotogeris cyanoptera
Blue-headed Parrot Pionus menstruus
Dark-billed Cuckoo Coccyzus melacoryphus
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana
Little Cuckoo Piaya minuta
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris
Fork-tailed Palm-Swift Tachornis squamata
Black-throated Mango Anthracothorax nigricollis
White-tailed Trogon Trogon viridis Heard only
Ringed Kingfisher Ceryle torquatus
Green Kingfisher Chloroceryle americana
Black-fronted Nunbird Monasa nigrifrons
Gilded Barbet Capito auratus
Chestnut-eared Aracari Pteroglossus castanotis
Lafresnaye's Piculet Picumnus lafresnayi
Little Woodpecker Veniliornis passerinus
Crimson-crested Woodpecker Campephilus melanoleucos
Pale-legged Hornero Furnarius leucopus
Pale-breasted Spinetail Synallaxis albescens
Common Thornbird Phacellodomus rufifrons
Point-tailed Palmcreeper Berlepschia rikeri
Cinnamon-throated Woodcreeper Dendrexetastes rufigula
Buff-throated Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus guttatus
Barred Antshrike Thamnophilus doliatus
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet Camptostoma obsoletum
Yellow-bellied Elaenia Elaenia flavogaster
Dusky-capped Flycatcher Myiarchus tuberculifer Possibly seen
Brown-crested Flycatcher Myiarchus tyrannulus Possibly seen
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua
Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
White-winged Becard Pachyramphus polychopterus Possibly seen
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
Thrush-like Wren Campylorhynchus turdinus
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Black-billed Thrush Turdus ignobilis
Red-eyed Vireo Vireo olivaceus
Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus
Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum
Blue Dacnis Dacnis cayana
Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina
Chestnut-bellied Seedeater Sporophila castaneiventris
Chestnut-bellied Seed-Finch Oryzoborus angolensis
Yellow-browed Sparrow Ammodramus aurifrons
Buff-throated Saltator Saltator maximus
Giant Cowbird Molothrus oryzivorus
Yellow-rumped Cacique Cacicus cela
Orange-backed Troupial Icterus croconotus


46. Morro de Calzada, near Rioja, San Martin       2nd July, 2006

   This is an excellent spot within easy reach of Rioja. We accessed it by car but you could take public transport the 10-15 minutes along the road towards Moyobamba then walk the final 4km. You could even camp up there. We left Rioja about 4:30 am and got there about 5am nice and early for nightjars. Follow the signs from the main road and park at a big clearing where there is a small house. From here, a poor road continues up through forest and here we saw Paraque, Rufous and Blackish Nightjars. Another evening we saw Common Potoo just behind the house and Spot-tailed Nightjar flying over open fields on the way back down to the main road.
   From the clearing, a trail goes down another way which has excellent birding in the early morning. Mishana Tyrannulet and Napo Sabrewing are also possible here although I didn't see them. There is a nice view accross the forest on the left. Further down is a fork. Here we had an unidentified juvenile male coquette.
I saw 71 species including 6 lifers

Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea
Snowy Egret Egretta thula
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Striated Heron Butorides striata
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Swallow-tailed Kite Elanoides forficatus
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris
Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana
Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti
Blue Ground-Dove Claravis pretiosa
Cobalt-winged Parakeet Brotogeris cyanoptera
Blue-headed Parrot Pionus menstruus
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
Tropical Screech-Owl Megascops choliba
Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium brasilianum Heard only
Common Potoo Nyctibius griseus
Pauraque Nyctidromus albicollis
Rufous Nightjar Caprimulgus rufus
Spot-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus maculicaudus
Blackish Nightjar Caprimulgus nigrescens
White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris
Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift Panyptila cayennensis
White-necked Jacobin Florisuga mellivora
Spangled Coquette Lophornis stictolophus
Fork-tailed Woodnymph Thalurania furcata
White-tailed Trogon Trogon viridis
Amazon Kingfisher Chloroceryle amazona Seen on river nearby
Green Kingfisher Chloroceryle americana Seen on river nearby
Broad-billed Motmot Electron platyrhynchum Heard only
Gilded Barbet Capito auratus
Chestnut-eared Aracari Pteroglossus castanotis
(Yellow-ridged Toucan) Ramphastos culminatus
Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus
Pale-legged Hornero Furnarius leucopus
Cinereous-breasted Spinetail Synallaxis hypospodia
Olivaceous Woodcreeper Sittasomus griseicapillus
Barred Antshrike Thamnophilus doliatus
Fiery-capped Manakin Machaeropterus pyrocephalus
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet Camptostoma obsoletum
Mouse-colored Tyrannulet Phaeomyias murina
Yellow-bellied Elaenia Elaenia flavogaster
White-crested Elaenia Elaenia albiceps
Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant Hemitriccus margaritaceiventer
Common Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum cinereum
White-winged Black-Tyrant Knipolegus aterrimus
Short-crested Flycatcher Myiarchus ferox
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua
Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis
Gray-capped Flycatcher Myiozetetes granadensis
Variegated Flycatcher Empidonomus varius
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Gray-breasted Martin Progne chalybea
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
Thrush-like Wren Campylorhynchus turdinus
Black-billed Thrush Turdus ignobilis
Red-eyed Vireo Vireo olivaceus
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola
Huallaga Tanager Ramphocelus melanogaster Endemic
Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus
Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum
Green-and-gold Tanager Tangara schrankii
Black-faced Dacnis Dacnis lineata
Blue Dacnis Dacnis cayana
Green Honeycreeper Chlorophanes spiza
Swallow-Tanager Tersina viridis
Grayish Saltator Saltator coerulescens
Yellow-rumped Cacique Cacicus cela
Orange-backed Troupial Icterus croconotus


47. Tunnel area, Yurimaguas road, near Tarapoto, San Martin       3rd July, 2006

   This is a great site within easy reach of Tarapoto, a major lowland town with many hotels restaurants and places to do internet. We stayed at El Mirador about 5 blocks from the Plaza de Armas, which it a little pricy but excellent value at 60s for a double. To get to the tunnel area drive towards Yurimaguas for 20km (40mins) along the gravel road. This has apparently improved since last year and may well be paved in the future. If you don't have your own transport you can probably catch any combi or truck heading towards Yurimaguas, get off at the tunnel and walk down a bit. Before the tunnel, there is a small valley with a stream coming down. We heard Band-bellied Owl here in the morning. The forest at the far end of the tunnel is excellent and I saw Goulds Jewelfront, Violet-headed Hummingbird, Black-eared Fairy, Olive Tanager, White-throated and Red-stained Woodpeckers and heard Greyish Mourner and Andean Cock-of-the-rock. Further down, after the first curve we saw Eulers Flycatcher, Fulvous-crested Tanager and heard Flame-capped Manakin and Mouse-coloured Antshrike. About 35km after the tunnel we had Dotted, Masked and Opal-crowned Tanagers.
  
I saw 81 species including 6 lifers

Snowy Egret Egretta thula
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Hook-billed Kite Chondrohierax uncinatus
Double-toothed Kite Harpagus bidentatus
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris
Spix's Guan Penelope jacquacu
Plumbeous Pigeon Patagioenas plumbea Heard only
Ruddy Pigeon Patagioenas subvinacea
Red-crowned Parakeet Pyrrhura roseifrons
Blue-headed Parrot Pionus menstruus
Band-bellied Owl Pulsatrix melanota Heard only
White-tipped Swift Aeronautes montivagus
Koepcke's Hermit Phaethornis koepckeae Endemic Near-threatened Possibly seen
Gray-breasted Sabrewing Campylopterus largipennis
Violet-headed Hummingbird Klais guimeti
Fork-tailed Woodnymph Thalurania furcata
Gould's Jewelfront Heliodoxa aurescens
Black-eared Fairy Heliothryx aurita
White-tailed Trogon Trogon viridis
Collared Trogon Trogon collaris
White-fronted Nunbird Monasa morphoeus
Gilded Barbet Capito auratus
Chestnut-tipped Toucanet Aulacorhynchus derbianus
(Yellow-ridged Toucan) Ramphastos culminatus
(Cuvier's Toucan) Ramphastos cuvieri
Red-stained Woodpecker Veniliornis affinis
White-throated Woodpecker Piculus leucolaemus
Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner Philydor rufus
Olive-backed Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus triangularis
Mouse-colored Antshrike Thamnophilus murinus
Andean Cock-of-the-rock Rupicola peruviana Heard only
Fiery-capped Manakin Machaeropterus pyrocephalus Heard only
Olive-striped Flycatcher Mionectes olivaceus
Slaty-capped Flycatcher Leptopogon superciliaris
Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant Lophotriccus pileatus
Yellow-margined Flycatcher Tolmomyias assimilis
Yellow-breasted Flycatcher Tolmomyias flaviventris
Cliff Flycatcher Hirundinea ferruginea
Euler's Flycatcher Lathrotriccus euleri
Smoke-colored Pewee Contopus fumigatus
Black Phoebe Sayornis nigricans
Cinereous Mourner Laniocera hypopyrra Heard only
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua
Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis
Gray-capped Flycatcher Myiozetetes granadensis
Dusky-chested Flycatcher Myiozetetes luteiventris
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
White-winged Becard Pachyramphus polychopterus
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
White-breasted Wood-Wren Henicorhina leucosticta
Scaly-breasted Wren Microcerculus marginatus Heard only
Green Jay Cyanocorax yncas
Violaceous Jay Cyanocorax violaceus
Slaty-capped Shrike-Vireo Vireolanius leucotis
Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis Heard only
Tropical Parula Parula pitiayumi
Slate-throated Redstart Myioborus miniatus
Olive Tanager Chlorothraupis carmioli
Fulvous-crested Tanager Tachyphonus surinamus
Hepatic Tanager Piranga flava
Silver-beaked Tanager Ramphocelus carbo
Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus
Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum
Orange-bellied Euphonia Euphonia xanthogaster
Turquoise Tanager Tangara mexicana
Paradise Tanager Tangara chilensis
Green-and-gold Tanager Tangara schrankii
Dotted Tanager Tangara varia Rare/Accidental
Bay-headed Tanager Tangara gyrola
Opal-crowned Tanager Tangara callophrys
Black-faced Dacnis Dacnis lineata
Blue Dacnis Dacnis cayana
Green Honeycreeper Chlorophanes spiza
Purple Honeycreeper Cyanerpes caeruleus
Red-legged Honeycreeper Cyanerpes cyaneus
Yellow-rumped Cacique Cacicus cela
Dusky-green Oropendola Psarocolius atrovirens
Russet-backed Oropendola Psarocolius angustifrons


48. Quebrada Upaquehua, near Tarapoto, San Martin       4th July, 2006

   This is an interesting area of dry forest about an hour to an hour half's drive from Tarapoto along a poor dusty road. Follow the road towards Juanjui. At the small town of Buenos Aires take the right fork at the gas station and follow the road along for 10km. There are km markers and after the 10km marker, there is a path leading to the right through good dry forest. It is also worth stopping at any points along this road that look good and we saw Huallaga Slaty-Antshrike, Rufous Casiornis and Straight-billed Woodcreeper about half way along this road. At the site itself, follow the trail through forest (with Stripe-chested, White-flanked and Rufous-winged Antwrens, White-browed Antbird and Stripe-necked Tody-Tyrant) to the little stream where you can see Buff-rumped Warbler and Hoatzin. Crossing the river the trail passes a couple of houses and along the side of more forest where we saw Grey-necked Wood-Rail, Dusky-billed Parrotlet and Hook-billed Kite. On the way back, the road runs alongside the river. At one point it is very wide with many islands worth checking for Sand-colored Nighthawk, Pied Lapwing and Large-billed Tern. Forest by the side of the road here was the only place we managed to find Ashy-headed Greenlet. Some vehicles pass along this road and it may be possible to come on public transport or hitch. Be sure to get there early and it heats up and the bird activity drops off quickly.
  
I saw 58 species including 6 lifers

Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris
Bat Falcon Falco rufigularis
Gray-necked Wood-Rail Aramides cajanea
Pied Lapwing Vanellus cayanus
Collared Plover Charadrius collaris
Yellow-billed Tern Sterna superciliaris
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Introduced species
Pale-vented Pigeon Patagioenas cayennensis
Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti
Blue Ground-Dove Claravis pretiosa
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi
Dusky-billed Parrotlet Forpus sclateri
Blue-headed Parrot Pionus menstruus
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia Heard only
Sand-colored Nighthawk Chordeiles rupestris
Black-throated Mango Anthracothorax nigricollis
Blue-tailed Emerald Chlorostilbon mellisugus
Black-fronted Nunbird Monasa nigrifrons
Crimson-crested Woodpecker Campephilus melanoleucos
Plain-crowned Spinetail Synallaxis gujanensis
Barred Antshrike Thamnophilus doliatus
Mara�on Slaty-Antshrike Thamnophilus leucogaster Endemic
Stripe-chested Antwren Myrmotherula longicauda
White-flanked Antwren Myrmotherula axillaris
Rufous-winged Antwren Herpsilochmus rufimarginatus
White-browed Antbird Myrmoborus leucophrys
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet Camptostoma obsoletum
Mouse-colored Tyrannulet Phaeomyias murina
Yellow-bellied Elaenia Elaenia flavogaster Heard only
Stripe-necked Tody-Tyrant Hemitriccus striaticollis
Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant Hemitriccus margaritaceiventer
Common Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum cinereum
Black-tailed Flycatcher Myiobius atricaudus
Rufous Casiornis Casiornis rufa
Brown-crested Flycatcher Myiarchus tyrannulus
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua
Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
White-winged Swallow Tachycineta albiventer
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
Moustached Wren Thryothorus genibarbis
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Tropical Gnatcatcher Polioptila plumbea
Green Jay Cyanocorax yncas
Violaceous Jay Cyanocorax violaceus
Red-eyed Vireo Vireo olivaceus
Ashy-headed Greenlet Hylophilus pectoralis Rare/Accidental
Buff-rumped Warbler Basileuterus fulvicauda
White-lined Tanager Tachyphonus rufus
Silver-beaked Tanager Ramphocelus carbo
Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus
Purple-throated Euphonia Euphonia chlorotica
Yellow-rumped Cacique Cacicus cela
Oriole Blackbird Gymnomystax mexicanus


Hosted by www.Geocities.ws

1