Introduction


The Mexican field guide, 'A Guide to the Birds of Mexico and Nothern Central America' by Steve N.G.Howell and Sophie Webb and the National Geographic 'Field Guide to the Birds of North America' Third Edition cover all the birds well. There is information for several sites in Guatemala in 'Where to watch birds in Central America & the Caribbean' by Nigel Wheatley and David Brewer. Guatemala is a very cheap country and it is easy to travel on a small budget. The currency is the Quetzal (also the national bird) and there are about 8 Quetzales to US$1. Buses are very cheap but cramped. Many are old US Bluebird school buses. Luggage is often put on the roof so you need to remain vigilant.

Sites visited


1. Flores, Peten 15-18th December, 2004
2. Tikal National Park, Peten 16-17th December
3. Biotopo del Quetzal, near Coban 18-20th December
4. Fuentes Georginas, near Quetzaltenango 22nd & 26th December
5. Km 197, near Quetzaltenango 24th December
6. Volcan Toliman, from San Lucas Toliman 27-28th December


1. Flores, Peten      15-18th December, 2004

   Flores was used as a base to visit Tikal. It is an island in the large Lake Peten Itza reached by a causeway from the town of Santa Elena. A few species could be seen from the causeway and round the edges of the island. The only real species of note was Royal Tern. Normally a coastal species but has been seen inland in Peten before.
19 species including 0 lifers.

Pied-billed Grebe Podilymbus podiceps
Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus
Great Egret Ardea alba
Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea
Snowy Egret Egretta thula
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Plain Chachalaca Ortalis vetula
Laughing Gull Larus atricilla
Royal Tern Sterna maxima
Rock Dove Columba livia Introduced species
Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti
Belted Kingfisher Ceryle alcyon
Ringed Kingfisher Ceryle torquata
Couch's Kingbird Tyrannus couchii
Summer Tanager Piranga rubra
Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus
Great-tailed Grackle Quiscalus mexicanus


2. Tikal National Park, Peten      16-17th December, 2004

   The ruins at Tikal were reached in an hour and a quarter from Flores by minibus. The area has some excellent lowland tropical rain forest and a high diversity of birds. I spent the first day birdwatching around the ruins and the second at the disused airstrip and along trails into some good (mosquito infested) forest away from the public. The aguada between the carpark and the ruins and 2 ponds next to the airstrip were also checked for water birds. I saw both my target species, Crested Guan & Ocellated Turkey, by the side of the road on the way in. Tame Ocellated Turkeys were also common next to the car park.
I saw a total of 82 species including 9 lifers.

Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Green Heron Butorides virescens
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris
Crested Guan Penelope purpurascens
Great Curassow Crax rubra Near-threatened
Ocellated Turkey Meleagris ocellata Near-threatened Photographed
Spotted Wood-Quail Odontophorus guttatus
Gray-necked Wood-Rail Aramides cajanea Photographed
Purple Gallinule Porphyrio martinica Photographed
Ruddy Quail-Dove Geotrygon montana Possibly seen
Olive-throated Parakeet Aratinga nana
White-crowned Parrot Pionus senilis
White-fronted Parrot Amazona albifrons Photographed
Red-lored Parrot Amazona autumnalis Recorded
Mealy Parrot Amazona farinosa
Groove-billed Ani Crotophaga sulcirostris
(Little Hermit) Phaethornis longuemareus
Western Long-tailed Hermit Phaethornis longirostris
Wedge-tailed Sabrewing Campylopterus curvipennis
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird Amazilia tzacatl
White-bellied Emerald Agyrtria candida
Purple-crowned Fairy Heliothryx barroti Photographed
Tody Motmot Hylomanes momotula Photographed
Collared Aracari Pteroglossus torquatus Recorded
Keel-billed Toucan Ramphastos sulfuratus Photographed Recorded
Golden-fronted Woodpecker Melanerpes aurifrons
Smoky-brown Woodpecker Veniliornis fumigatus
Golden-olive Woodpecker Piculus rubiginosus
Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus Photographed
Pale-billed Woodpecker Campephilus guatemalensis Photographed
Plain Xenops Xenops minutus
Ruddy Woodcreeper Dendrocincla homochroa
Olivaceous Woodcreeper Sittasomus griseicapillus Photographed
Northern Barred-Woodcreeper Dendrocolaptes sanctithomae
Ivory-billed Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus flavigaster
Barred Antshrike Thamnophilus doliatus
Dot-winged Antwren Microrhopias quixensis
Dusky Antbird Cercomacra tyrannina
Black-faced Antthrush Formicarius analis
Greenish Elaenia Myiopagis viridicata
Northern Bentbill Oncostoma cinereigulare
Eye-ringed Flatbill Rhynchocyclus brevirostris
Yellow-olive Flycatcher Tolmomyias sulphurescens
Stub-tailed Spadebill Platyrinchus cancrominus
Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher Terenotriccus erythrurus
Sulphur-rumped Flycatcher Myiobius sulphureipygius
Yellow-bellied Flycatcher Empidonax flaviventris Possibly seen
Dusky-capped Flycatcher Myiarchus tuberculifer Possibly seen
Brown-crested Flycatcher Myiarchus tyrannulus
Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis
Couch's Kingbird Tyrannus couchii
Thrush-like Schiffornis Schiffornis turdinus
Masked Tityra Tityra semifasciata
Carolina Wren Thryothorus ludovicianus
White-breasted Wood-Wren Henicorhina leucosticta
Gray Catbird Dumetella carolinensis
Wood Thrush Hylocichla mustelina Photographed
Clay-colored Robin Turdus grayi
Brown Jay Cyanocorax morio
White-eyed Vireo Vireo griseus Photographed
Tawny-crowned Greenlet Hylophilus ochraceiceps
Lesser Greenlet Hylophilus decurtatus
Magnolia Warbler Dendroica magnolia
Black-and-white Warbler Mniotilta varia Photographed
Worm-eating Warbler Helmitheros vermivorus
Ovenbird Seiurus aurocapilla
Louisiana Waterthrush Seiurus motacilla
Hooded Warbler Wilsonia citrina Photographed
Golden-crowned Warbler Basileuterus culicivorus
Red-crowned Ant-Tanager Habia rubica Recorded
Red-throated Ant-Tanager Habia fuscicauda Recorded
Summer Tanager Piranga rubra
Yellow-throated Euphonia Euphonia hirundinacea Recorded
Olive-backed Euphonia Euphonia gouldi
White-collared Seedeater Sporophila torqueola
Blue Bunting Cyanocompsa parellina Possibly seen
Melodious Blackbird Dives dives
Great-tailed Grackle Quiscalus mexicanus
Black-cowled Oriole Icterus prosthemelas Photographed
Montezuma Oropendola Gymnostinops montezuma


3. Biotopo del Quetzal, near Coban       18-20th December, 2004

   Reserva Mario Dary (or Biotopo del Quetzal as it is more commonly referred to) was reached in just over an hour from Coban by bus. I stayed 2 nights at a cheap (Q30) hostel called Hospedaje Ranchito just 200m from the entrance to the reserve. I only spent 1 morning in the Biotopo itself but I also walked a trail at the back of the hostel 2 afternoons. The trail lead for just 500m but had excellent cloud forest and this is where I saw my 2 target species, the Resplendent Quetzal and Highland Guan. The reserve also had good cloud forest but the slopes were steep it was not easy to see the birds.
29 species including 11 lifers.

Highland Guan Penelopina nigra Near-threatened
Singing Quail Dactylortyx thoracicus
Green-throated Mountain-gem Lampornis viridipallens Photographed Recorded
Garnet-throated Hummingbird Lamprolaima rhami
Resplendent Quetzal Pharomachrus mocinno Near-threatened Photographed
Emerald Toucanet Aulacorhynchus prasinus
Golden-olive Woodpecker Piculus rubiginosus Possibly seen
Scaly-throated Foliage-gleaner Anabacerthia variegaticeps Recorded
Spotted Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus erythropygius Photographed
Yellowish Flycatcher Empidonax flavescens Photographed
House Wren Troglodytes aedon Recorded
Gray-breasted Wood-Wren Henicorhina leucophrys
Slate-colored Solitaire Myadestes unicolor Photographed
Black-headed Nightingale-Thrush Catharus mexicanus
Wood Thrush Hylocichla mustelina
Mountain Robin Turdus plebejus
Black-throated Jay Cyanolyca pumilo Heard only
Unicolored Jay Aphelocoma unicolor Recorded
Hutton's Vireo Vireo huttoni Photographed
Black-throated Green Warbler Dendroica virens
Black-and-white Warbler Mniotilta varia
Louisiana Waterthrush Seiurus motacilla
Wilson's Warbler Wilsonia pusilla
Slate-throated Redstart Myioborus miniatus
Golden-crowned Warbler Basileuterus culicivorus Recorded
Golden-browed Warbler Basileuterus belli Photographed
Common Bush-Tanager Chlorospingus ophthalmicus Photographed
Flame-colored Tanager Piranga bidentata
Red-legged Honeycreeper Cyanerpes cyaneus


4. Fuentes Georginas, near Quetzaltenango       22nd & 26th December, 2004

   Fuentes Georginas (about 2,400m elevation) is a popular hot spring resort. It was reached by taking a 20 minute bus ride to the town of Zunil (about 2,100m) from Quetzaltenango (known locally as Xela) followed by another 20 ride 8km uphill in a pick-up. These could be easily hired (Q25) in Zunil. On 22nd I walked from the hot springs up a very steep trail heading to the summit of Volcan Zunil (about 3,400m). I didn't reach the summit but just to 3,270m. I saw my 1 of my target species, the Pink-headed Warbler, on this trail at 2,930m. The second day I walked a short trail from the hot springs around the valley at the same elevation. On both days I walked the first part of the road back down to Zunil which also has some good forest. I saw none of my other target species: the Resplendent Quetzal, Highland Guan and Horned Guan. The presence of the latter here is uncertain. I did however see many other highland species. I saw a total of 46 species including 4 lifers.

Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Singing Quail Dactylortyx thoracicus
Band-tailed Pigeon Patagioenas fasciata
Maroon-chested Ground-Dove Claravis mondetoura
Green Violet-ear Colibri thalassinus
White-eared Hummingbird Hylocharis leucotis
Amethyst-throated Hummingbird Lampornis amethystinus
Garnet-throated Hummingbird Lamprolaima rhami
Magnificent Hummingbird Eugenes fulgens
Wine-throated Hummingbird Atthis ellioti
Mountain Trogon Trogon mexicanus
Emerald Toucanet Aulacorhynchus prasinus
Yellow-bellied Sapsucker Sphyrapicus varius
Eastern Wood-Pewee Contopus virens
Black-capped Swallow Notiochelidon pileata
Gray Silky-flycatcher Ptilogonys cinereus
Band-backed Wren h Campylorhynchus zonatus
Blue-and-white Mockingbird Melanotis hypoleucus
Brown-backed Solitaire Myadestes occidentalis
Ruddy-capped Nightingale-Thrush Catharus frantzii
Black Robin Turdus infuscatus
Mountain Robin Turdus plebejus
Rufous-collared Robin Turdus rufitorques
Bushtit Psaltriparus minimus
Black-throated Jay Cyanolyca pumilo
Tennessee Warbler Vermivora peregrina
Crescent-chested Warbler Parula superciliosa
Yellow-rumped Warbler Dendroica coronata
Townsend's Warbler Dendroica townsendi
Black-and-white Warbler Mniotilta varia
Ovenbird Seiurus aurocapilla
Wilson's Warbler Wilsonia pusilla
Pink-headed Warbler Ergaticus versicolor Vulnerable
Slate-throated Redstart Myioborus miniatus
Golden-browed Warbler Basileuterus belli
Common Bush-Tanager Chlorospingus ophthalmicus
Western Tanager Piranga ludoviciana
Cinnamon-bellied Flowerpiercer Diglossa baritula
White-naped Brush-Finch Atlapetes albinucha
Chestnut-capped Brush-Finch Buarremon brunneinucha
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Yellow-eyed Junco Junco phaeonotus
Rose-breasted Grosbeak Pheucticus ludovicianus
Great-tailed Grackle Quiscalus mexicanus
Baltimore Oriole Icterus galbula
House Sparrow Passer domesticus Introduced species


5. Km 197, near Quetzaltenango       24th December, 2004

   Km 197 (about 1,300m elevation) was reached by taking a 20 minute bus ride to the town of Zunil from Quetzaltenango followed by another 25 bus ride 17km downhill Towards Reu and the pacific coast. A bus could however be caught directly from Quetzaltenango from the terminal. The difficult part was knowing where to get off. My bus driver didn't know of the place so I had to keep an eye on the poorly marked kilometre marks on the road. There was actually a white concrete post at a right turn that had been knocked over which read 'Km197 Finca Chicharros'. My site guide said Km197 was called Finca Pantonil and road at that point was marked as Km 198.4! I was confused by this so checked further down the road but the next turn was at Km 196.3. I turned right here and walked through coffee plantations with some forest and scattered trees. This track actually met up with the first one. This area had many birds and as I only birded a few hours from 9am, my list is just scratching the surface. I saw 2 Azure-rumped (Cabini's) Tanagers (my target species) feeding in a fruit tree at 1,315m just a few hundred metres from the Km 197 sign. I also heard the distinctive call of the Highland Guan down in the valley at the coffee plantation. Other notable species were Black Hawk-Eagle (slightly out of geographical and altitudinal range) and Blue-tailed Hummingbird which was seen feeding young. I saw a total of 35 species including 2 lifers. My site guide mentioned bandit activity in the area but I had no problems. Once off the main road and into the coffee plantation there should be no problem. However the entrance to the tracks were either fenced off or a gate locked so travelling by car might mean leaving it by the main road.

Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Black Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus tyrannus
Highland Guan h Penelopina nigra
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi
White-fronted Parrot Amazona albifrons
Violet Sabrewing Campylopterus hemileucurus
Blue-tailed Hummingbird Saucerottia cyanura
Blue-crowned Motmot Momotus momota
Golden-fronted Woodpecker Melanerpes aurifrons
Eastern Wood-Pewee Contopus virens
Tropical Pewee Contopus cinereus
Yellowish Flycatcher Empidonax flavescens
Dusky-capped Flycatcher Myiarchus tuberculifer
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua
Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis
Gray Silky-flycatcher Ptilogonys cinereus
Band-backed Wren Campylorhynchus zonatus
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Brown-backed Solitaire Myadestes occidentalis
Swainson's Thrush ? Catharus ustulatus
White-throated Magpie-Jay Calocitta formosa
Blue-headed Vireo Vireo solitarius
Warbling Vireo ? Vireo gilvus
Tennessee Warbler Vermivora peregrina
Magnolia Warbler Dendroica magnolia
Black-and-white Warbler Mniotilta varia
Wilson's Warbler Wilsonia pusilla
Rufous-capped Warbler Basileuterus rufifrons
Common Bush-Tanager Chlorospingus ophthalmicus
Western Tanager Piranga ludoviciana
Yellow-winged Tanager Thraupis abbas
Azure-rumped Tanager Tangara cabanisi
Red-legged Honeycreeper Cyanerpes cyaneus
Baltimore Oriole Icterus galbula


6. Volcan Toliman, from San Lucas Toliman       27-8th December, 2004

   I climbed Volcan Toliman from the town of San Lucas Toliman on the southern edge of Lake Atitlan. San Lucas was reached from Panajachel by local bus in about an hour. San Lucas has many places to stay and eat and the locals were very friendly. I attempted to climb

Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Red-tailed Hawk Buteo jamaicensis
Highland Guan Penelopina nigra Near-threatened
Horned Guan Oreophasis derbianus Endangered
Band-tailed Pigeon Patagioenas fasciata
White-winged Dove Zenaida asiatica
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi
Green Violet-ear Colibri thalassinus
White-eared Hummingbird Hylocharis leucotis
Amethyst-throated Hummingbird Lampornis amethystinus
Green-throated Mountain-gem Lampornis viridipallens
Wine-throated Hummingbird Atthis ellioti
Acorn Woodpecker Melanerpes formicivorus
Golden-fronted Woodpecker h Melanerpes aurifrons
Yellow-bellied Sapsucker Sphyrapicus varius
Golden-olive Woodpecker Piculus rubiginosus
Tufted Flycatcher Mitrephanes phaeocercus
Dusky-capped Flycatcher Myiarchus tuberculifer
Rose-throated Becard Pachyramphus aglaiae
Northern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx serripennis
Gray Silky-flycatcher Ptilogonys cinereus
Band-backed Wren Campylorhynchus zonatus
Brown-backed Solitaire Myadestes occidentalis
Mountain Robin Turdus plebejus
Rufous-collared Robin Turdus rufitorques
Bushy-crested Jay Cyanocorax melanocyaneus
Black-throated Jay Cyanolyca pumilo
Blue-headed Vireo Vireo solitarius
Olive Warbler Peucedramus taeniatus
Tennessee Warbler Vermivora peregrina
Crescent-chested Warbler Parula superciliosa
Black-throated Green Warbler Dendroica virens
Townsend's Warbler Dendroica townsendi
Wilson's Warbler Wilsonia pusilla
Slate-throated Redstart Myioborus miniatus
Summer Tanager Piranga rubra
Western Tanager Piranga ludoviciana
Great-tailed Grackle Quiscalus mexicanus
Bronzed Cowbird Molothrus aeneus
Black-headed Siskin Carduelis notata
House Sparrow Passer domesticus Introduced species
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