Sites visited

1. Ognorhynchus Reserve, Jardin, Antioquia 12th-13th August, 2006

   Jardin is easily reached by bus from Medellin in 3 and a half hours, costing 14,000 pesos. �Transporte Suroeste Antioquenia� buses leave the terminal at 3:45pm and 5pm and probably some in the morning too. Jardin is a beautiful town where you can stay and visit the reserve and nearby areas during the day. I stayed at �La Casona� just half a block from the plaza with nice rooms for about $7 per night. There are some nice restaurants around the plaza and several places to do internet. Proaves is planning to build some accommodation higher up within the reserve.
   There are several areas around town and the best thing to do is contact PROAVES and coordinate you visit with them. Jose Castano [email protected] is in charge of the project and knows the birds well. His mothers �vivero� (nursery) is excellent for birds. There are several hummingbirds at the flowers and feeder in the garden and Red-headed Barbet and many tanager species feed on bananas on the bird table.
   One morning we waited at the top of the reserve where there is an antennae for the Yellow-eared Parrots to fly over but without success. The next day we waited at the other side of the valley and had them fly in to feed nearby. The birds are seemingly fearless and we got to within 6m of them at eye level. The antenna sight has excellent birding with many hummingbirds (even Dusky Starfrontlet has been seen) and mixed tanager flocks. A good thing to do is get to the top and walk some of the way back down. There is a bus that goes up there at 7:30 in the morning but it would be better to go with a member of Proaves.
   Red-bellied Grackle can be seen up from a cattle farm, just 20 minutes walk from the centre. Ask Jose for directions. The family�s 11 year old son, Jon Sebastian, can take you up to see the birds.
I saw 85 species including 12 lifers

Cattle Egret	Bubulcus ibis
Black Vulture	Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture	Cathartes aura
Roadside Hawk	Buteo magnirostris
White-tailed Hawk	Buteo albicaudatus
Yellow-headed Caracara	Milvago chimachima
American Kestrel	Falco sparverius
Rock Pigeon	Columba livia	Introduced species
Band-tailed Pigeon	Patagioenas fasciata
White-tipped Dove	Leptotila verreauxi	Heard only
Yellow-eared Parrot	Ognorhynchus icterotis	Critically endangered
Scarlet-fronted Parakeet	Aratinga wagleri
Barred Parakeet	Bolborhynchus lineola
Squirrel Cuckoo	Piaya cayana
Smooth-billed Ani	Crotophaga ani
White-collared Swift	Streptoprocne zonaris
Band-rumped Swift	Chaetura spinicaudus	Possibly seen
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird	Amazilia tzacatl
Steely-vented Hummingbird	Saucerottia saucerrottei
Collared Inca	Coeligena torquata
Tourmaline Sunangel	Heliangelus exortis
Tyrian Metaltail	Metallura tyrianthina
Highland Motmot	Momotus aequatorialis
Red-headed Barbet	Eubucco bourcierii
Andean Toucanet	Aulacorhynchus albivitta
Grayish Piculet	Picumnus granadensis	Endemic
Acorn Woodpecker	Melanerpes formicivorus
Golden-olive Woodpecker	Piculus rubiginosus
Azara's Spinetail	Synallaxis azarae	Heard only
Pearled Treerunner	Margarornis squamiger
Streaked Tuftedcheek	Pseudocolaptes boissonneautii
Streak-headed Woodcreeper	Lepidocolaptes souleyetii
Spillman's Tapaculo	Scytalopus spillmanni	Heard only
Green-and-black Fruiteater	Pipreola riefferii
Sooty-headed Tyrannulet	Phyllomyias griseiceps
Black-capped Tyrannulet	Phyllomyias nigrocapillus
Golden-faced Tyrannulet	Zimmerius chrysops
White-tailed Tyrannulet	Mecocerculus poecilocercus
Cliff Flycatcher	Hirundinea ferruginea
Smoke-colored Pewee	Contopus fumigatus
Tropical Pewee	Contopus cinereus
Black Phoebe	Sayornis nigricans
Rusty-margined Flycatcher	Myiozetetes cayanensis
Golden-crowned Flycatcher	Myiodynastes chrysocephalus
Streaked Flycatcher	Myiodynastes maculatus
Tropical Kingbird	Tyrannus melancholicus
Barred Becard	Pachyramphus versicolor
Cinereous Becard	Pachyramphus rufus
Blue-and-white Swallow	Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Southern Rough-winged Swallow	Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
House Wren	Troglodytes aedon
Gray-breasted Wood-Wren	Henicorhina leucophrys	Heard only
Andean Solitaire	Myadestes ralloides	Heard only
Great Thrush	Turdus fuscater
Black-billed Thrush	Turdus ignobilis
Green Jay	Cyanocorax yncas
Brown-capped Vireo	Vireo leucophrys
Slate-throated Redstart	Myioborus miniatus
Golden-fronted Redstart	Myioborus ornatus
Gray-hooded Bush-Tanager	Cnemoscopus rubrirostris
Rufous-crested Tanager	Creurgops verticalis	Possibly seen
Hepatic Tanager	Piranga flava
Crimson-backed Tanager	Ramphocelus dimidiatus
Flame-rumped Tanager	Ramphocelus flammigerus
Blue-gray Tanager	Thraupis episcopus
Blue-capped Tanager	Thraupis cyanocephala
Palm Tanager	Thraupis palmarum
Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager	Anisognathus somptuosus
Thick-billed Euphonia	Euphonia laniirostris
Saffron-crowned Tanager	Tangara xanthocephala
Bay-headed Tanager	Tangara gyrola
Scrub Tanager	Tangara vitriolina
Blue-necked Tanager	Tangara cyanicollis
Beryl-spangled Tanager	Tangara nigroviridis
Black-capped Tanager	Tangara heinei
Yellow-bellied Seedeater	Sporophila nigricollis
Yellow-faced Grassquit	Tiaris olivacea
Slaty Brush-Finch	Atlapetes schistaceus
Rufous-collared Sparrow	Zonotrichia capensis
Shiny Cowbird	Molothrus bonariensis	Possibly seen
Yellow-backed Oriole	Icterus chrysater
Venezuelan Troupial	Icterus icterus	Possibly seen
Russet-backed Oropendola	Psarocolius angustifrons
Red-bellied Grackle	Hypopyrrhus pyrohypogaster	Endemic Endangered
Lesser Goldfinch	Carduelis psaltria

2. El Mirador Rserve, Genova, Quindio 14th-17th August, 2006

El Mirador is another PROAVES reserve. To get there, take a bus to Armenia and another one from there to Genova (1700m altitude) costing 5,500 pesos. From Genova it is about another 10km to the end of the road at a different place called Jardin (at 2,600m). This is best done by paying for a jeep to take you up (30,000 pesos). It takes about 50 minutes along a very bad road. With prior notice, the Guardaparque will meet you here and take you up to the house on horseback which takes about 2 hours. The house is basic but has some beds and even hydroelectric-powered lights. Meals are provided here and you can pay at the PROAVES office in Bogota (where your stay should be organized in advance). You will need a guide to show you round the reserve. The project manager called Querubin showed me around for 3 days and I got to see most of the species I was after.
A trail goes up to the Paramo from the house and at the upper forest we were lucky enough for a group of 7 Rufous-faced Parakeets to fly into the tree next to us. This is supposedly a difficult species to see. We saw about 25 Fuertes Parakeets feeding less than 10m and a similar-sized group of Golden-plumed Parakeets from a clearing near a house called 'Brillante'.
I saw 104 species including 10 lifers

Cattle Egret	Bubulcus ibis
Black Vulture	Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture	Cathartes aura
Roadside Hawk	Buteo magnirostris
White-throated Hawk	Buteo albigula
Red-backed Hawk	Buteo polyosoma
Carunculated Caracara	Phalcoboenus carunculatus
Crested Caracara	Caracara cheriway	Possibly seen
Andean Guan	Penelope montagnii
Noble Snipe	Gallinago nobilis	Possibly seen
Andean Snipe	Gallinago jamesoni
Band-tailed Pigeon	Patagioenas fasciata
Eared Dove	Zenaida auriculata	Seen near Genova
Rufous-fronted Parakeet	Bolborhynchus ferrugineifrons	Endemic Endangered
Golden-plumed Parakeet	Leptosittaca branickii	Vulnerable
Indigo-winged Parrot	Hapalopsittaca fuertesi	Endemic Critically endangered
Blue-headed Parrot	Pionus menstruus	Seen near Genova
Speckle-faced (White-crowned) Parrot	Pionus tumultuosus (seniloides)
Bronze-winged Parrot	Pionus chalcopterus	Possibly heard
Scaly-naped Parrot	Amazona mercenaria
Squirrel Cuckoo	Piaya cayana
White-collared Swift	Streptoprocne zonaris
Green Hermit	Phaethornis guy
Green Violet-ear	Colibri thalassinus
Steely-vented Hummingbird	Saucerottia saucerrottei	Possibly seen near Genova
Buff-tailed Coronet	Boissonneaua flavescens
Shining Sunbeam	Aglaeactis cupripennis
Mountain Velvetbreast	Lafresnaya lafresnayi
Collared Inca	Coeligena torquata
Great Sapphirewing	Pterophanes cyanopterus
Tourmaline Sunangel	Heliangelus exortis
Black-thighed Puffleg	Eriocnemis derbyi	Near-threatened
Golden-breasted Puffleg	Eriocnemis mosquera
Green-tailed Trainbearer	Lesbia nuna
Purple-backed Thornbill	Ramphomicron microrhynchum
Tyrian Metaltail	Metallura tyrianthina
Viridian Metaltail	Metallura williami
Rainbow-bearded Thornbill	Chalcostigma herrani
Mountain Avocetbill	Opisthoprora euryptera
Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan	Andigena hypoglauca	Near-threatened
Black-billed Mountain-Toucan	Andigena nigrirostris	Possibly heard
Andean Toucanet	Aulacorhynchus albivitta
Crimson-mantled Woodpecker	Piculus rivolii
Azara's Spinetail	Synallaxis azarae
Many-striped Canastero	Asthenes flammulata
Pearled Treerunner	Margarornis squamiger
Streaked Tuftedcheek	Pseudocolaptes boissonneautii
Chestnut-crowned Antpitta	Grallaria ruficapilla	Heard only
Chestnut-naped Antpitta	Grallaria nuchalis	Heard only
Tawny Antpitta	Grallaria quitensis	Heard only
Ash-colored Tapaculo	Myornis senilis	Heard only
Blackish Tapaculo	Scytalopus latrans	Possibly heard
Long-tailed (Rufous-vented) Tapaculo	Scytalopus (femoralis) micropterus	Heard only
Red-crested Cotinga	Ampelion rubrocristata
Lesser Elaenia	Elaenia chiriquensis
Black-capped Tyrannulet	Phyllomyias nigrocapillus
White-throated Tyrannulet	Mecocerculus leucophrys
Cinnamon Flycatcher	Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea
Black Phoebe	Sayornis nigricans
Crowned Chat-Tyrant	Ochthoeca frontalis
Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant	Ochthoeca rufipectoralis
Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant	Ochthoeca fumicolor
Pale-edged Flycatcher	Myiarchus cephalotes
Rusty-margined Flycatcher	Myiozetetes cayanensis
Tropical Kingbird	Tyrannus melancholicus
Blue-and-white Swallow	Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Brown-bellied Swallow	Notiochelidon murina
Southern Rough-winged Swallow	Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
White-capped Dipper	Cinclus leucocephalus
Rufous Wren	Cinnycerthia unirufa
House Wren	Troglodytes aedon	Heard only
Mountain Wren	Troglodytes solstitialis
Sedge Wren	Cistothorus platensis
Gray-breasted Wood-Wren	Henicorhina leucophrys
Great Thrush	Turdus fuscater
Green Jay	Cyanocorax yncas
Golden-fronted Redstart	Myioborus ornatus
Citrine Warbler	Basileuterus luteoviridis
Black-crested Warbler	Basileuterus nigrocristatus
Capped Conebill	Conirostrum albifrons
Grass-green Tanager	Chlorornis riefferii
White-capped Tanager	Sericossypha albocristata	Heard only
Superciliaried Hemispingus	Hemispingus superciliaris
Black-headed Hemispingus	Hemispingus verticalis
Flame-rumped Tanager	Ramphocelus flammigerus
Blue-gray Tanager	Thraupis episcopus	Seen in Genova
Blue-capped Tanager	Thraupis cyanocephala
Hooded Mountain-Tanager	Buthraupis montana
Black-chested Mountain-Tanager	Buthraupis eximia
Lacrimose Mountain-Tanager	Anisognathus lacrymosus
Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager	Anisognathus igniventris
Buff-breasted Mountain-Tanager	Dubusia taeniata
Blue-necked Tanager	Tangara cyanicollis
Blue-and-black Tanager	Tangara vassorii
Black-backed Bush-Tanager	Urothraupis stolzmanni
Plumbeous Sierra-Finch	Phrygilus unicolor
Plain-colored Seedeater	Catamenia inornata
Yellow-faced Grassquit	Tiaris olivacea
White-sided Flowerpiercer	Diglossa albilatera
Glossy Flowerpiercer	Diglossa lafresnayii
Masked Flowerpiercer	Diglossopis cyanea
Pale-naped Brush-Finch	Atlapetes pallidinucha
Slaty Brush-Finch	Atlapetes schistaceus
Rufous-collared Sparrow	Zonotrichia capensis
Hooded Siskin	Carduelis magellanica

3. Clarito Botera, Ibague, Tolima 18th August, 2006

This is a site very near the city of Ibague. From the centre you can take the number 50 bus (or a taxi) which will drop you at the end of the paved road. From here you walk up a gravel road past a few houses with gardens and scattered trees where you can see some common bird species. Highlights in this lower section were White-vented Plumeleteer, Slaty Spinetail and Black-bellied Wren (only heard). An overhead electric wire runs along the road. After this finishes (about an hour walking slowly), there is a nice shady area of forest where the road curves round past a little stream. Here we had Crested Ant-Tanager. After this, there is a final house on a bend where there are lots of flowers. The owners of this house put out bananas for tanagers. Just after this, you pass a curve with a bit of forest left above. Here I saw Tolima Dove flying past. There is little forest left here and deforestation is taking place at quite a rate. I also had this species further along in shady forest. About 20 minutes after this on the left hand side in some scrub I saw the endangered endemic Yellow-headed Brush-Finch. Another good spot is near the top where there is a very small football pitch next to a stream. Here we saw Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrant and also found a dead juvenile antpitta (possibly rufous). Along the road, the endemic Blossumcrown has occasionally been seen. The president of Proaves, Alonso lives in Ibague and is a good source of information. I saw 74 species including 6 lifers

Bare-faced Ibis	Phimosus infuscatus
Black Vulture	Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture	Cathartes aura
Roadside Hawk	Buteo magnirostris
Gray-necked Wood-Rail	Aramides cajanea	Heard in Ibague
Eared Dove	Zenaida auriculata
Ruddy Ground-Dove	Columbina talpacoti
Tolima Dove	Leptotila conoveri	Endemic Endangered
Orange-chinned Parakeet	Brotogeris jugularis
Squirrel Cuckoo	Piaya cayana	Heard only
Smooth-billed Ani	Crotophaga ani
Green Violet-ear	Colibri thalassinus
Violet-crowned Woodnymph	Thalurania colombica
White-vented Plumeleteer	Chalybura buffonii
Bronzy Inca	Coeligena coeligena
Crimson-rumped Toucanet	Aulacorhynchus haematopygus	Possibly seen
Spot-breasted Woodpecker	Colaptes punctigula
Azara's Spinetail	Synallaxis azarae
Slaty Spinetail	Synallaxis brachyura
Spotted Barbtail	Premnoplex brunnescens
Montane Foliage-gleaner	Anabacerthia striaticollis
Straight-billed Woodcreeper	Dendroplex picus
Streak-headed Woodcreeper	Lepidocolaptes souleyetii
Barred Antshrike	Thamnophilus doliatus
Bar-crested Antshrike	Thamnophilus multistriatus
Checker-throated Antwren	Myrmotherula fulviventris
Chestnut-crowned Antpitta	Grallaria ruficapilla	Heard only
Greenish Elaenia	Myiopagis viridicata
Yellow-bellied Elaenia	Elaenia flavogaster
Slaty-capped Flycatcher	Leptopogon superciliaris
Golden-faced Tyrannulet	Zimmerius chrysops
Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant	Lophotriccus pileatus
Black Phoebe	Sayornis nigricans
Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrant	Ochthoeca cinnamomeiventris
Pale-edged Flycatcher	Myiarchus cephalotes
Rusty-margined Flycatcher	Myiozetetes cayanensis
Social Flycatcher	Myiozetetes similis	Possibly seen
Piratic Flycatcher	Legatus leucophaius
Tropical Kingbird	Tyrannus melancholicus
Barred Becard	Pachyramphus versicolor
Blue-and-white Swallow	Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Southern Rough-winged Swallow	Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
Black-bellied Wren	Thryothorus fasciatoventris	Heard only
Whiskered Wren	Thryothorus mystacalis
House Wren	Troglodytes aedon	Heard only
Gray-breasted Wood-Wren	Henicorhina leucophrys
Black-billed Thrush	Turdus ignobilis
Green Jay	Cyanocorax yncas
Slate-throated Redstart	Myioborus miniatus
Rufous-capped Warbler	Basileuterus rufifrons
Bananaquit	Coereba flaveola
Common Bush-Tanager	Chlorospingus ophthalmicus
Guira Tanager	Hemithraupis guira
Crested Ant-Tanager	Habia cristata	Endemic
Blue-gray Tanager	Thraupis episcopus
Blue-capped Tanager	Thraupis cyanocephala
Palm Tanager	Thraupis palmarum
Thick-billed Euphonia	Euphonia laniirostris
Orange-bellied Euphonia	Euphonia xanthogaster
Golden Tanager	Tangara arthus
Bay-headed Tanager	Tangara gyrola
Scrub Tanager	Tangara vitriolina
Metallic-green Tanager	Tangara labradorides	Possibly seen
Blue-necked Tanager	Tangara cyanicollis
Black-faced Dacnis	Dacnis lineata
Rusty Flowerpiercer	Diglossa sittoides
White-sided Flowerpiercer	Diglossa albilatera
Saffron Finch	Sicalis flaveola
Yellow-breasted Brush-Finch	Atlapetes latinuchus
Orange-billed Sparrow	Arremon aurantiirostris
Streaked Saltator	Saltator striatipectus
Buff-throated Saltator	Saltator maximus
Black-winged Saltator	Saltator atripennis
Lesser Goldfinch	Carduelis psaltria

4. Parque la Florida, Bogota 20th August, 2006

This parl is within the city limits of Bogota and is the most reliable site for the endangered Bogota Rail. The park is popular for BBQs, football and the like, but there are also some wetland areas remaining although they are underthreat. The park can be accessed easily by car along Calle 80. Many people take taxis there although buses also pass by the entrance. Once in the park, look for a big, white, metal bridge accross the river. There are a few remaining reeds on the river itself where I saw Yellow-hooded Blackbird. Once over the bridge turn left immediately and walk alongside the reedbeds. You'll need to climb over a fence. There are cows in here and many of the reeds have already been eaten. The Bogota Rail is quite responsive to play-back. I found a good spot where you can walk into an area surrounded by reeds where I managed to call one out. I saw 16 species including 3 lifers

Cattle Egret	Bubulcus ibis
Bare-faced Ibis	Phimosus infuscatus
Black Vulture	Coragyps atratus
Bogota Rail	Rallus semiplumbeus	Endangered
Common Moorhen	Gallinula chloropus
Rock Pigeon	Columba livia	Introduced species
Eared Dove	Zenaida auriculata
Sparkling Violet-ear	Colibri coruscans	Heard only
Brown-bellied Swallow	Notiochelidon murina
House Wren	Troglodytes aedon
Great Thrush	Turdus fuscater
Rufous-collared Sparrow	Zonotrichia capensis
Yellow-hooded Blackbird	Chrysomus icterocephalus
Eastern Meadowlark	Sturnella magna
Shiny Cowbird	Molothrus bonariensis
Andean Siskin	Carduelis spinescens

5. Laguna de Fuquene 20th August, 2006

This lake is also easily accessed from Bogota. It is near the town of Ubate and takes about an hour and a half to drive there. On the road from Bogota to Boyaca, look out for a sign on the right reading 'Laguna de Fuquene. After this turn right at another sign reading 'Chalet Refugio - El Refugio'. The sign has a yellow boat next to it. A short distance along is a blue shop on the left accross from a small port with some boats moared. There are reeds on either side of the port where I hear Apolinars Wren. They are very responsive to play-back but very difficult to see. I finally managed to see on on reeds on the left, facing the lake. Further along on the right is a nice hotel (where you could stay). You can walk down to the water's edge here and Apolinar's Wren is also present in the reeds here. I heard Bogota Rail here, but seeing it is a different matter. The hotel rents paddle boats out by the hour (s5000) but they don't steer very well. I saw 22 species including 1 lifer

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Pied-billed Grebe	Podilymbus podiceps
Great Egret	Ardea alba
Cattle Egret	Bubulcus ibis
Common Moorhen	Gallinula chloropus
Spot-flanked Gallinule	Gallinula melanops
American Coot	Fulica americana
Rock Pigeon	Columba livia	Introduced species
Eared Dove	Zenaida auriculata
Smooth-billed Ani	Crotophaga ani
Sparkling Violet-ear	Colibri coruscans
Fork-tailed Flycatcher	Tyrannus savana
Brown-chested Martin	Progne tapera
Brown-bellied Swallow	Notiochelidon murina
Southern Rough-winged Swallow	Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
Barn Swallow	Hirundo rustica
House Wren	Troglodytes aedon	Heard only
Apolinar's Wren	Cistothorus apolinari	Endemic Endangered
Tropical Mockingbird	Mimus gilvus
Great Thrush	Turdus fuscater
Rufous-collared Sparrow	Zonotrichia capensis
Yellow-hooded Blackbird	Chrysomus icterocephalus
Lesser Goldfinch	Carduelis psaltria

6. El Paujil Reserve, near Puerto Pinzon, Boyaca 24th-27th August, 2006

   El Paujil is an excellent and very large ProAves reserve. It is fairly easily accessed by public transport. First you need to get to Puerto Boyaca. Buses several buses leave the terminal in Bogota. I took an Autoboy bus leaving at 6am although you don't need to leave this early. It took 6 hours and cost s24,000. From Puerto Boyaca, a bus leaves the plaza at 3pm for Puerto Pinzon. This takes about 2 hours and costs s10,000. A communal taxi leaves at the same time and is quicker, costing 12,000. Once you get to Pinzon, it is only about 40 minutes walk to the reserve but maybe getting dark so taking a vehicle could be better. With previous planning, someone from the reserve will come down to meet you and take you to the reserve.
   The reserve has ample accomodation in dormitories which have electricity and cold showers. Accomodation and food should be arranged at the ProAves office in Bogota. I was accompanied most of the time by the guardaparques Montero and Montero (Bertulfo), who are brothers and know the reserve well. Montero, the older brother especially knows good sites for the Blue-knobbed Curassow and White-mantled Barbet.
   A good area for birding is a grid of trails marked with letters and distances for studying spider monkeys. This is about 20-30 minutes walk from the house. A student saw the Curassows about 200m along H transect. To get to the grid, you need to turn left (coming from the house) off the track to the entrance, then turn right into the forest. On the first part of this trail were some good trees for hummingbirds including White-necked Jacobin, Black-throated Mango. I also heard the barbets in this area. On the other side of the track further towards the entrance is another trail that loops down towards the river Where I saw spider and capuchin monkeys and Barred Puffbird.
   Another good area is accessed by turning the same way left of the track and straight on instead of turning right into the forest. This comes to a gate where you turn left onto another gravel track. Follow this up the hill to a spot good for the barbets (ask Montero 1). Here you enter the forest and climb up steeply and along a ridge where Great Tinamou was common and I also had White-fronted Nunbird and Golden-headed Manakin higher up.
   Other good areas are accessed by crossing the river (when the water is low) or taking a boat upstream (when the water is high). Accross the river, walk towards Montero's house. Before this, take a very steep trail upwards into good forest where the Curassow has been seen. The final spot I visited is accessed by boat (or walking an hour) to a place called El Socio. From here you can walk up the right side of the valley through excellent forest. Along here I saw Double-toothed Kite, Yellow-browed Shrike Vireo and Sooty Ant-Tanager. At the beginning of this trail, you can instead take a trail crossing the river several times (Buff-rumped Warbler) and climbing up to an abandoned house called Pe�a Lisa. Near here I saw Blue-chested Hummingbird, White-bearded Manakin and Paraque. From the house, there is another trail into forest where curassows have been seen. I saw a group of 5 Saffron-headed Parrots feeding on a tree with red berries.
I saw 120 species including 19 lifers

Great Tinamou	Tinamus major
Little Tinamou	Crypturellus soui
Great Egret	Ardea alba	Seen near Puerto Pinzon
Cattle Egret	Bubulcus ibis	Seen near Puerto Pinzon
Bare-faced Ibis	Phimosus infuscatus
Black Vulture	Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture	Cathartes aura
Double-toothed Kite	Harpagus bidentatus
Roadside Hawk	Buteo magnirostris
Black Hawk-Eagle	Spizaetus tyrannus
Yellow-headed Caracara	Milvago chimachima
Laughing Falcon	Herpetotheres cachinnans
American Kestrel	Falco sparverius	Seen near Puerto Pinzon
Speckled (Colombian) Chachalaca	Ortalis guttata colombiana
Marbled Wood-Quail	Odontophorus gujanensis
White-throated Crake	Laterallus albigularis	Heard only
Gray-necked Wood-Rail	Aramides cajanea	Heard only
Wattled Jacana	Jacana jacana	Seen near Puerto Pinzon
Southern Lapwing	Vanellus chilensis
Rock Pigeon	Columba livia	Introduced species
Pale-vented Pigeon	Patagioenas cayennensis	Heard only
Ruddy Pigeon	Patagioenas subvinacea	Heard only
Ruddy Ground-Dove	Columbina talpacoti
White-tipped Dove	Leptotila verreauxi
Gray-fronted Dove	Leptotila rufaxilla
Ruddy Quail-Dove	Geotrygon montana
Chestnut-fronted Macaw	Ara severa	Heard only
Spectacled Parrotlet	Forpus conspicillatus	Seen near Puerto Pinzon
Orange-chinned Parakeet	Brotogeris jugularis
Saffron-headed Parrot	Pionopsitta pyrilia	Vulnerable
Blue-headed Parrot	Pionus menstruus
Orange-winged Parrot	Amazona amazonica
Squirrel Cuckoo	Piaya cayana	Heard only
Greater Ani	Crotophaga major
Smooth-billed Ani	Crotophaga ani	Seen near Puerto Pinzon
Pauraque	Nyctidromus albicollis
White-collared Swift	Streptoprocne zonaris
Band-rumped Swift	Chaetura spinicaudus	Possibly seen
Rufous-breasted Hermit	Glaucis hirsuta
Band-tailed Barbthroat	Threnetes ruckeri	Possibly seen
Eastern Long-tailed Hermit	Phaethornis superciliosus	Possibly seen
Stripe-throated Hermit	Phaethornis striigularis
White-necked Jacobin	Florisuga mellivora
Black-throated Mango	Anthracothorax nigricollis
Blue-tailed Emerald	Chlorostilbon mellisugus	Possibly seen
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird	Amazilia tzacatl
Blue-chested Hummingbird	Polyerata amabilis
Violaceous Trogon	Trogon violaceus
Black-tailed Trogon	Trogon melanurus
Ringed Kingfisher	Ceryle torquatus	Seen near Puerto Pinzon
Rufous Motmot	Baryphthengus martii
Broad-billed Motmot	Electron platyrhynchum	Heard only
Barred Puffbird	Nystalus radiatus
White-fronted Nunbird	Monasa morphoeus
White-mantled Barbet	Capito hypoleucus	Endemic Endangered Heard only
Collared Aracari	Pteroglossus torquatus
Spot-breasted Woodpecker	Colaptes punctigula
Cinnamon Woodpecker	Celeus loricatus
Wedge-billed Woodcreeper	Glyphorynchus spirurus
Straight-billed Woodcreeper	Dendroplex picus	Possibly seen
Streak-headed Woodcreeper	Lepidocolaptes souleyetii
Great Antshrike	Taraba major	Heard only
Barred Antshrike	Thamnophilus doliatus
Western Slaty-Antshrike	Thamnophilus atrinucha
Checker-throated Antwren	Myrmotherula fulviventris
White-fringed Antwren	Formicivora grisea
Chestnut-backed Antbird	Myrmeciza exsul
White-bellied Antpitta	Grallaria hypoleuca	Heard only
Purple-throated Fruitcrow	Querula purpurata
White-bearded Manakin	Manacus manacus
Blue-crowned Manakin	Lepidothrix coronata
Golden-headed Manakin	Pipra erythrocephala
Ochre-bellied Flycatcher	Mionectes oleagineus
Sepia-capped Flycatcher	Leptopogon amaurocephalus
Southern Bentbill	Oncostoma olivaceum	Possibly seen
Common Tody-Flycatcher	Todirostrum cinereum
Olivaceous Flatbill	Rhynchocyclus olivaceus
Yellow-olive Flycatcher	Tolmomyias sulphurescens
Bright-rumped Attila	Attila spadiceus	Heard only
Rufous Mourner	Rhytipterna holerythra	Heard only
Panama Flycatcher	Myiarchus panamensis	Possibly seen
Great Kiskadee	Pitangus sulphuratus
Boat-billed Flycatcher	Megarynchus pitangua
Rusty-margined Flycatcher	Myiozetetes cayanensis
Social Flycatcher	Myiozetetes similis
Streaked Flycatcher	Myiodynastes maculatus
Piratic Flycatcher	Legatus leucophaius
Tropical Kingbird	Tyrannus melancholicus
Cinnamon Becard	Pachyramphus cinnamomeus
Cinereous Becard	Pachyramphus rufus	Possibly seen
Masked Tityra	Tityra semifasciata
Gray-breasted Martin	Progne chalybea
Southern Rough-winged Swallow	Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
Black-bellied Wren	Thryothorus fasciatoventris	Possibly heard
White-breasted Wood-Wren	Henicorhina leucosticta
Scaly-breasted Wren	Microcerculus marginatus
Pale-vented Thrush	Turdus obsoletus
Black-chested Jay	Cyanocorax affinis
Lesser Greenlet	Hylophilus decurtatus
Yellow-browed Shrike-Vireo	Vireolanius eximius
Buff-rumped Warbler	Basileuterus fulvicauda
Bananaquit	Coereba flaveola
Yellow-backed Tanager	Hemithraupis flavicollis
White-shouldered Tanager	Tachyphonus luctuosus
Sooty Ant-Tanager	Habia gutturalis	Endemic Near-threatened
Crimson-backed Tanager	Ramphocelus dimidiatus
Blue-gray Tanager	Thraupis episcopus
Palm Tanager	Thraupis palmarum
Thick-billed Euphonia	Euphonia laniirostris
Green Honeycreeper	Chlorophanes spiza
Swallow-Tanager	Tersina viridis
Ruddy-breasted Seedeater	Sporophila minuta
Thick-billed Seed-Finch	Oryzoborus funereus
Black-striped Sparrow	Arremonops conirostris
Buff-throated Saltator	Saltator maximus
Yellow-hooded Blackbird	Chrysomus icterocephalus	Seen near Puerto Pinzon
Orange-crowned Oriole	Icterus auricapillus
Chestnut-headed Oropendola	Psarocolius wagleri
Citron-throated Toucan	Ramphastos citreolaemus
Chestnut-mandibled Toucan	Ramphastos swainsonii

7. Cerulean Warbler Reserve, San Vicente de Chucuri, Santander 28th-30th August, 2006

   Another ProAves reserve. To get there take a bus from Bucaramanga to San Vicente de Chucuri taking 2 hours (14,000). From there you can hire a jeep to take you up to the reserve (30,000). The director of the reserve, Juan Carlos Luna who met me in San Vicente is a good source of information about birds in the reserve and the surrounding area. I stayed in a house in a coffee plantation (1300m). This was in the process of being bought by Proaves. I slept in my tent but there should be beds in the future. From the house it is about 40 minutes walk up to the forest. The reserve is only small having about 200ha but another 400ha of municipal owned forest borders.
   Around the house and coffee plantation are some interesting birds including: Aplomado Falcon, Russet-backed Oropendola, Bicolored Wren and Yellow Oriole. On the way up to the forest I saw Azara's Spinetail (with an unusual call), Yellow-throated Brush-Finch and Yellow-bellied Seedeater.
   The forest itself was fairly quiet, even in the mornings, but I still managed to see a good range of tanagers and woodcreepers. About 20minutes walk after entering the forest is a trail leading off to the right though good forest. This junction is a good spot to listen out for the critically endangered endemic Gorgeted Wood-Quail. It is more vocal in some seasons than others. This time it is very quiet and it took us 3 days to hear it call just once. Get there as early as possible. Along the trail into the forest I saw Parker's Antbird and the endangered endemic Black Inca. The latter I also saw higher up, where the trail is very straight, and again at the ridge called Talisman (1900m). On clear days, the latter is good for spotting raptors and swifts.
I saw 96 species including 7 lifers

Black Vulture	Coragyps atratus
Roadside Hawk	Buteo magnirostris
Black Hawk-Eagle	Spizaetus tyrannus	Heard only
Aplomado Falcon	Falco femoralis
Gorgeted Wood-Quail	Odontophorus strophium	Endemic Critically endangered Heard only
Rock Pigeon	Columba livia	Introduced species
Band-tailed Pigeon	Patagioenas fasciata
Plumbeous Pigeon	Patagioenas plumbea
White-tipped Dove	Leptotila verreauxi	Seen near San Vicente
Orange-chinned Parakeet	Brotogeris jugularis
Squirrel Cuckoo	Piaya cayana	Heard only
Smooth-billed Ani	Crotophaga ani
Striped Cuckoo	Tapera naevia	Heard only
White-collared Swift	Streptoprocne zonaris
White-tipped Swift	Aeronautes montivagus
Violet-crowned Woodnymph	Thalurania colombica
Andean Emerald	Agyrtria franciae
Speckled Hummingbird	Adelomyia melanogenys
Black Inca	Coeligena prunellei	Endemic Endangered
Collared Trogon	Trogon collaris
Crimson-rumped Toucanet	Aulacorhynchus haematopygus	Possibly seen
Santa Marta Toucanet	Aulacorhynchus lautus	Endemic
Golden-olive Woodpecker	Piculus rubiginosus
Crimson-crested Woodpecker	Campephilus melanoleucos	Possibly seen
Azara's Spinetail	Synallaxis azarae
Spotted Barbtail	Premnoplex brunnescens
Streaked Xenops	Xenops rutilans
Montane Foliage-gleaner	Anabacerthia striaticollis
Flammulated Treehunter	Thripadectes flammulatus
Lineated Foliage-gleaner	Syndactyla subalaris
Plain-brown Woodcreeper	Dendrocincla fuliginosa
Black-striped Woodcreeper	Xiphorhynchus lachrymosus
Olive-backed Woodcreeper	Xiphorhynchus triangularis
Straight-billed Woodcreeper	Dendroplex picus
Streak-headed Woodcreeper	Lepidocolaptes souleyetii
Montane Woodcreeper	Lepidocolaptes lacrymiger
Brown-billed Scythebill	Campylorhamphus pusillus
Uniform Antshrike	Thamnophilus unicolor
Plain Antvireo	Dysithamnus mentalis
Slaty Antwren	Myrmotherula schisticolor
Parker's Antbird	Cercomacra parkeri	Endemic
Nari�o Tapaculo	Scytalopus vicinior	Possibly seen
Golden-winged Manakin	Masius chrysopterus
Olive-striped Flycatcher	Mionectes olivaceus
Slaty-capped Flycatcher	Leptopogon superciliaris	Possibly seen
Plumbeous-crowned Tyrannulet	Phyllomyias plumbeiceps
Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant	Lophotriccus pileatus
Ornate Flycatcher	Myiotriccus ornatus
Cinnamon Flycatcher	Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea
Smoke-colored Pewee	Contopus fumigatus
Tropical Pewee	Contopus cinereus	Seen near San Vicente
Vermilion Flycatcher	Pyrocephalus rubinus
Cattle Tyrant	Machetornis rixosus
Apical Flycatcher	Myiarchus apicalis	Endemic Possibly seen
Great Kiskadee	Pitangus sulphuratus
Boat-billed Flycatcher	Megarynchus pitangua	Possibly heard
Golden-crowned Flycatcher	Myiodynastes chrysocephalus
Tropical Kingbird	Tyrannus melancholicus
Southern Rough-winged Swallow	Stelgidopteryx ruficollis	Seen near San Vicente
Bicolored Wren	Campylorhynchus griseus
Whiskered Wren	Thryothorus mystacalis
House Wren	Troglodytes aedon
Gray-breasted Wood-Wren	Henicorhina leucophrys
Tropical Mockingbird	Mimus gilvus
Andean Solitaire	Myadestes ralloides
Black-billed Thrush	Turdus ignobilis
Green Jay	Cyanocorax yncas
Tropical Parula	Parula pitiayumi
Slate-throated Redstart	Myioborus miniatus
Russet-crowned Warbler	Basileuterus coronatus	Possibly seen
Three-striped Warbler	Basileuterus tristriatus
Common Bush-Tanager	Chlorospingus ophthalmicus
Flame-rumped Tanager	Ramphocelus flammigerus
Blue-gray Tanager	Thraupis episcopus
Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager	Anisognathus somptuosus
Orange-bellied Euphonia	Euphonia xanthogaster
Golden Tanager	Tangara arthus
Saffron-crowned Tanager	Tangara xanthocephala
Flame-faced Tanager	Tangara parzudakii
Golden-naped Tanager	Tangara ruficervix
Metallic-green Tanager	Tangara labradorides
Blue-necked Tanager	Tangara cyanicollis
Beryl-spangled Tanager	Tangara nigroviridis
Black-capped Tanager	Tangara heinei
Yellow-bellied Seedeater	Sporophila nigricollis
Yellow-faced Grassquit	Tiaris olivacea
Bluish Flowerpiercer	Diglossopis caerulescens
Saffron Finch	Sicalis flaveola
White-naped (Yellow-throated) Brush-Finch	Atlapetes albinucha (gutturalis)
Chestnut-capped Brush-Finch	Buarremon brunneinucha
Rufous-collared Sparrow	Zonotrichia capensis
Black-winged Saltator	Saltator atripennis
Yellow Oriole	Icterus nigrogularis
Russet-backed Oropendola	Psarocolius angustifrons
Lesser Goldfinch	Carduelis psaltria
Black-mandibled Toucan	Ramphastos ambiguus	Possibly heard

8. Parque Gallineral, San Gil 31st August, 2006

San Gil is easily accessed from Bucaramanga taking 2 and a half hours and costing 14,000s. This is a good site for the critically endangered endemic Niceforo's Wren. This is a very little known species restricted to this area. It is supposedly easy with play-back next to the Parque Gallineral in San Gil, but I didn't have a recording of the species. A month before, Juan Carlos and an English BIrder had it in 5 minutes where I only heard it once in 3 hours seaching. To get to the spot, you can either go through the park or round the back. To go through the park, you'll need to check with the caretaker on the gate (preferably the night before) whether you can enter at 6am. The park only opens to the public at 8am. The park is very pretty having many big trees but little natural vegetation below. Lots of pretty flowers though and a few nice birds (Black-faced Grassquit). Going through the park, go straight from the gate, over 2 white bridges and climb through 2 fences which leads into nice forest with a dense undergrowth. The same spot can be reached by going further along the main road from the entrance (towards Bucaramanga), turn right over a bridge and straight away look for a small path going down a slope. Follow this along into forest. The trail goes along through forest and finally along more open habitat along the river.
Between San Gil and Bucaramanga is a possible site for the critically endangered endemic Chestnut-bellied Hummingbird. Again, a month before, Juan Carlos saw here at 2 large trees with yellow flowers. Unfortunately these trees were no longer in flower. To find the trees, look out for a big national park sign on the left about an hour to hour and a half from San Gil (8000s). After this is another big 'Aguila' sign on the left. Then a signed, right turn towards 'Cepita'. Bus drivers know this turning. The 2 trees are about 100m before the turning. After this, the road continues down to the Chicamocha river and on to Bucaramanga (6000s by bus).
I saw 33 species including 3 lifers

Black Vulture	Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture	Cathartes aura
White-tipped Dove	Leptotila verreauxi
Spectacled Parrotlet	Forpus conspicillatus
Smooth-billed Ani	Crotophaga ani	Seen near Cepita turn-off
White-necked Jacobin	Florisuga mellivora
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird	Amazilia tzacatl
Barred Antshrike	Thamnophilus doliatus
Plain Antvireo	Dysithamnus mentalis
Yellow-olive Flycatcher	Tolmomyias sulphurescens
Black Phoebe	Sayornis nigricans
Great Kiskadee	Pitangus sulphuratus
Tropical Kingbird	Tyrannus melancholicus
Blue-and-white Swallow	Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Southern Rough-winged Swallow	Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
Bicolored Wren	Campylorhynchus griseus	Seen near Cepita turn-off
Niceforo's Wren	Thryothorus nicefori	Endemic Critically endangered Possibly heard
House Wren	Troglodytes aedon
Tropical Mockingbird	Mimus gilvus	Seen near Cepita turn-off
Black-billed Thrush	Turdus ignobilis
Green Jay	Cyanocorax yncas	Heard only
Rufous-browed Peppershrike	Cyclarhis gujanensis
Rufous-capped Warbler	Basileuterus rufifrons
Bananaquit	Coereba flaveola
Blue-gray Tanager	Thraupis episcopus
Palm Tanager	Thraupis palmarum
Scrub Tanager	Tangara vitriolina
Blue-necked Tanager	Tangara cyanicollis
Black-faced Grassquit	Tiaris bicolor
Saffron Finch	Sicalis flaveola
Golden-winged Sparrow	Arremon schlegeli
Streaked Saltator	Saltator striatipectus
Venezuelan Troupial	Icterus icterus	Seen near Cepita turn-off

9. El Dorado Reserve, near Santa Marta, Magdalena 1st-5th September, 2006

El Dorado is the final ProAves reserve I visited. It is located close to the city of Santa Marta in the Sierra Nevada mountains. There are 2 ways to get there from Santa Marta. Either ProAves can organize a vehicle which is rather costly (150,000s) or you can take a truck which leaves the market at 8am and takes about 2 and a half hours (6000s). This drops you off at a junction called, 'El Ye' from where you have about an hour to hour and a half to the caba�a. On the way up I saw Blossomcrown. This feeds on the pretty roadside (Impaciens) flowers just above the school. The ProAves caba�a is well located at about 1950m and there is good birding nearby including a nice patch patch of foret directly below where I saw Santa MArta Antpitta and possibly Santa Marta Wren. The caba�a has no electricity, OK bunk beds and a local girl cooked us meals. The only other person there with me was a student named Christian who was studying the Santa Marta Parakeet.
The first good birding spot above the house is a trail leading off from the first bend into nice forest where I saw White-rumped Hawk, Grey-throated Leaftosser, Spotted Barbtail and Slaty Antwren. From the caba�a to the top is quite far and can 2-3 hours. Trucks sometimes go up in the early morning, and a good idea is to take one of these and bird your way down. About 20 minutes walk from the caba�a is the guardaprque Martin's house. From here, a trail called Sendero los Bromelias goes up where I saw the endemic Santa Marta Toucanet (possibly just a sub-species) and Rusty-headed Spinetail. This trail is a lot shorter than walking the road but is very steep. Up from Martin's house is 'Estacion Ecologico San Lorenzo' Much of this area has non-native pines but I saw White-tipped Quetzals next to the building and Black-throated Wood-Quails nearby. Up from here, look out for a trail to the left up a steep bank. This leads to nice forest (2400m) with Santa Marta Antpitta, Strong-billed Woodcreeper and Sickle-winged Guan. Santa Marta Parakeets are also possible here but easier further up. A little further along is a spot with an excellent view, good for spotting parrots in the morning. After this, the road passes several antenna where I saw Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant perching on top of. Near the top, the road forks, the right to an antenna and left towards the military base at the peak. Follow the left fork oand look out for a small patch of forest on the left that is very productive. Here I saw Plushcap, Yellow-bellied Chat-Tyrant and Streak-crested Spinetail. Further along is a gate on the right to a clearing with a small lake. In this area, there are many nest boxes for the parakeets and this was the easiest place to see them as there was an active nest. The last spot was 5 minutes further on from the lake where there is nice forest. This is the best site for the endangered endemic Santa MArta Bush-Tyrant. It may not be a good idea to go as far as the base as you may be hassled by the soldiers.
I saw 80 species including 24 lifers

Black Vulture	Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture	Cathartes aura
Osprey	Pandion haliaetus
Plain-breasted Hawk	Accipiter ventralis
White-rumped Hawk	Buteo leucorrhous
Band-tailed Guan	Penelope argyrotis
Sickle-winged Guan	Chamaepetes goudotii
Black-fronted Wood-Quail	Odontophorus atrifrons	Vulnerable
Band-tailed Pigeon	Patagioenas fasciata
Lined Quail-Dove	Geotrygon linearis
Scarlet-fronted Parakeet	Aratinga wagleri
Santa Marta Parakeet	Pyrrhura viridicata	Endemic Endangered
Red-billed Parrot	Pionus sordidus
Scaly-naped Parrot	Amazona mercenaria
White-tipped Swift	Aeronautes montivagus	Possibly seen
Green Violet-ear	Colibri thalassinus
Violet-crowned Woodnymph	Thalurania colombica
Blossomcrown	Anthocephala floriceps	Endemic Vulnerable
Tyrian Metaltail	Metallura tyrianthina
Masked Trogon	Trogon personatus
White-tipped Quetzal	Pharomachrus fulgidus
Keel-billed Toucan	Ramphastos sulfuratus
Golden-olive Woodpecker	Piculus rubiginosus
Crimson-crested Woodpecker	Campephilus melanoleucos
Rusty-headed Spinetail	Synallaxis fuscorufa	Endemic Near-threatened
Streak-capped Spinetail	Cranioleuca hellmayri	Endemic
Spotted Barbtail	Premnoplex brunnescens
Streaked Xenops	Xenops rutilans
Montane Foliage-gleaner	Anabacerthia striaticollis
Gray-throated Leaftosser	Sclerurus albigularis
Strong-billed Woodcreeper	Xiphocolaptes promeropirhynchus
Black-striped Woodcreeper	Xiphorhynchus lachrymosus
Slaty Antwren	Myrmotherula schisticolor
Santa Marta Antpitta	Grallaria bangsi	Endemic Near-threatened
Brown-rumped Tapaculo	Scytalopus latebricola	Endemic
Golden-breasted Fruiteater	Pipreola aureopectus
Mountain Elaenia	Elaenia frantzii
Olive-striped Flycatcher	Mionectes olivaceus
Black-capped Tyrannulet	Phyllomyias nigrocapillus
White-throated Tyrannulet	Mecocerculus leucophrys
Black-throated Tody-Tyrant	Hemitriccus granadensis
Cinnamon Flycatcher	Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea
Olive-sided Flycatcher	Contopus cooperi
Yellow-bellied Chat-Tyrant	Ochthoeca diadema
Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant	Myiotheretes striaticollis
Santa Marta Bush-Tyrant	Myiotheretes pernix	Endemic Endangered
Bright-rumped Attila	Attila spadiceus	Heard only
Golden-crowned Flycatcher	Myiodynastes chrysocephalus
Tropical Kingbird	Tyrannus melancholicus
Masked Tityra	Tityra semifasciata
Blue-and-white Swallow	Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
House Wren	Troglodytes aedon
Santa Marta Wren	Troglodytes monticola	Endemic Possibly seen
Gray-breasted Wood-Wren	Henicorhina leucophrys
Andean Solitaire	Myadestes ralloides	Heard only
Slaty-backed Nightingale-Thrush	Catharus fuscater
Yellow-legged Thrush	Platycichla flavipes
Great Thrush	Turdus fuscater
Pale-breasted Thrush	Turdus leucomelas
Black-chested Jay	Cyanocorax affinis
Brown-capped Vireo	Vireo leucophrys
Slate-throated Redstart	Myioborus miniatus
Yellow-crowned Redstart	Myioborus flavivertex	Endemic
Santa Marta Warbler	Basileuterus basilicus	Endemic Near-threatened Possibly seen
White-lored Warbler	Basileuterus conspicillatus	Endemic Near-threatened
White-shouldered Tanager	Tachyphonus luctuosus
Crimson-backed Tanager	Ramphocelus dimidiatus
Blue-capped Tanager	Thraupis cyanocephala
Santa Marta Mountain-Tanager	Anisognathus melanogenys	Endemic
Blue-naped Chlorophonia	Chlorophonia cyanea
Bay-headed Tanager	Tangara gyrola
Black-capped Tanager	Tangara heinei
Plush-capped Finch	Catamblyrhynchus diadema
Blue-black Grassquit	Volatinia jacarina
Paramo Seedeater	Catamenia homochroa
White-sided Flowerpiercer	Diglossa albilatera
Santa Marta Brush-Finch	Atlapetes melanocephalus	Endemic
Rufous-collared Sparrow	Zonotrichia capensis
Golden-bellied Grosbeak	Pheucticus chrysogaster
Great-tailed Grackle	Quiscalus mexicanus	Seen near Santa Marta
Andean Siskin	Carduelis spinescens

10. Parque Nacional Isla de Salamanca, near Baranquilla 12th September, 2005

   This is the only site for the critically endangered endemic Sapphire-bellied Hummingbird. It is restricted to mangroves but its status and even taxanomy are unclear. I visited the reserve for just 1 day but not to the area with recent reports which needs to be accessed by boat. A student has just started work on the species and would be a good source of advice. His name is Jose Vergara [email protected] .
   The park entrance is at a place called Los Cocos (km 11). It can be easily accessed by bus as it is on the main route from Baranquilla to Santa Marta but you may have to pay the full fare (7000s) from the bus terminal. Leaving from a bridge on the outskirts of Baranquilla, we managed to negotiate a fare of 4000s. A bus leaves the centre for km13 along this road.
   In the reserve there is a nice trail through mangroves with Black-crested Antshrike, Yellow-chinned Spinetail, Chestnut Piculet, Bicolored Conebill and Prothonatory Warbler, and past lakes with several waders and many Lesser Nighthawks. I also walked from the entrance along the highway towards Santa Marta but didn't manage to reach a good area after km 20. With a car, you could check several intereting points along the road between km 20 and km 50.
I saw 50 species including 4 lifers

Least Grebe	Tachybaptus dominicus
Brown Pelican	Pelecanus occidentalis
Neotropic Cormorant	Phalacrocorax brasilianus
Cocoi Heron	Ardea cocoi
Great Egret	Ardea alba
Tricolored Heron	Egretta tricolor
Snowy Egret	Egretta thula
Cattle Egret	Bubulcus ibis
Striated Heron	Butorides striata
Black-crowned Night-Heron	Nycticorax nycticorax
Roseate Spoonbill	Platalea ajaja
Turkey Vulture	Cathartes aura
Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture	Cathartes burrovianus
White-tailed Kite	Elanus leucurus	Seen in Baranquilla
Snail Kite	Rostrhamus sociabilis
Limpkin	Aramus guarauna
Purple Gallinule	Porphyrio martinica
Black-necked Stilt	Himantopus mexicanus
Southern Lapwing	Vanellus chilensis
Whimbrel	Numenius phaeopus
Lesser Yellowlegs	Tringa flavipes
Solitary Sandpiper	Tringa solitaria
Gull-billed Tern	Sterna nilotica
Royal Tern	Sterna maxima
Yellow-billed Tern	Sterna superciliaris
Large-billed Tern	Phaetusa simplex
Black Skimmer	Rynchops niger
Rock Pigeon	Columba livia	Introduced species
Brown-throated Parakeet	Aratinga pertinax	Heard only
Smooth-billed Ani	Crotophaga ani
Lesser Nighthawk	Chordeiles acutipennis
Ringed Kingfisher	Ceryle torquatus
Amazon Kingfisher	Chloroceryle amazona
Chestnut Piculet	Picumnus cinnamomeus
Golden-green Woodpecker	Piculus chrysochloros
Yellow-chinned Spinetail	Certhiaxis cinnamomea
Black-crested Antshrike	Sakesphorus canadensis
Common Tody-Flycatcher	Todirostrum cinereum
Pied Water-Tyrant	Fluvicola pica
Cattle Tyrant	Machetornis rixosus
Brown-crested Flycatcher	Myiarchus tyrannulus
Great Kiskadee	Pitangus sulphuratus
Tropical Kingbird	Tyrannus melancholicus
House Wren	Troglodytes aedon
Red-eyed Vireo	Vireo olivaceus
Yellow Warbler	Dendroica petechia
Prothonotary Warbler	Protonotaria citrea
Bananaquit	Coereba flaveola	Heard only
Bicolored Conebill	Conirostrum bicolor
Great-tailed Grackle	Quiscalus mexicanus

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