Sites visited


1. Fortaleza area, Ceará       October, 2006

   I visited Fortaleza to meet members of Aquasis, a conservation organization working at with the Araripe Manakin (following site), Serra de Baturite and projects working with terns and marine mammals. Check: http://www.aquasis.org/bio_projetos.asp (only in Portugese) or contact Alberto [email protected] for more information. The forest in Serra de Baturite has some excellent birding the recently split Gray-breasted Parakeet is likely to be listed as a critically endangered species in the near future. Contact Ciro Albano [email protected] about this area. Ciro and Alberto both speak excellent English. I stayed at the Aquasis office for a few days which is located in a kind of compound called SESC Iparana about 15km west of Fortaleza and can be reached by bus. Ask Alberto for directions. Within the compound is a small patch of forest which has Spot-backed Puffbird, Ochraceous Piculet and Marmoset. I joined a group that went to a place called Pecem about 50km west of Fortaleza. Here was good for terns, waders and Black Skimmer. We also checked some flooded palm forest near Lake Cauipe where we saw Purple Gallinule, Limpkin and Masked Water-Tyrant. Ask Alberto for more details of the site.
I saw 70 species including 1 lifer

Great Egret Ardea alba
Snowy Egret Egretta thula Photographed
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Striated Heron Butorides striata
Brazilian Teal Amazonetta brasiliensis
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes burrovianus
Savanna Hawk Buteogallus meridionalis
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris Photographed
Crested Caracara Caracara cheriway
Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima
Limpkin Aramus guarauna
Purple Gallinule Porphyrio martinica
Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis
Black-bellied Plover Pluvialis squatarola Photographed
Semipalmated Plover Charadrius semipalmatus Photographed
Wilson's Plover Charadrius wilsonia Photographed
Collared Plover Charadrius collaris
Short-billed Dowitcher Limnodromus griseus Photographed
Spotted Sandpiper Actitis macularia
Willet Catoptrophorus semipalmatus Photographed
Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres Photographed
Red Knot Calidris canutus Photographed
Sanderling Calidris alba Photographed
Laughing Gull Larus atricilla Photographed
Roseate Tern Sterna dougallii Rare/Accidental Photographed
Common Tern Sterna hirundo Photographed
Least Tern Sterna antillarum Photographed
Black Tern Chlidonias niger Rare/Accidental Photographed
Black Skimmer Rynchops niger Photographed
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Introduced species
Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti
Scaled Dove Columbina squammata
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana
Greater Ani Crotophaga major
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
Guira Cuckoo Guira guira
Fork-tailed Palm-Swift Tachornis squamata
Blue-crowned Trogon Trogon curucui
Amazon Kingfisher Chloroceryle amazona
Green Kingfisher Chloroceryle americana Heard only
Spot-backed Puffbird Nystalus maculatus
Ochraceous Piculet Picumnus limae Endemic Vulnerable
Green-barred Woodpecker Colaptes melanochloros
Pale-legged Hornero Furnarius leucopus Possibly seen
Great Antshrike Taraba major
Common Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum cinereum
Yellow-olive Flycatcher Tolmomyias sulphurescens
Yellow-breasted Flycatcher Tolmomyias flaviventris Recorded
Masked Water-Tyrant Fluvicola nengeta
Cattle Tyrant Machetornis rixosus
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus
Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Brown-chested Martin Progne tapera Possibly seen
Gray-breasted Martin Progne chalybea
White-winged Swallow Tachycineta albiventer
Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica
Yellowish Pipit Anthus lutescens
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Pale-breasted Thrush Turdus leucomelas
Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis
Golden-crowned Warbler Basileuterus culicivorus
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola
Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca
Violaceous Euphonia Euphonia violacea
House Sparrow Passer domesticus Introduced species


2. Crato, Ceará      26th October, 2006

   The Araripe Manakin is very easily seen at a place called Arajara Park near Crato in southern Ceará. Crato can be reached from Fortaleza by bus in about 9 hours (55R). Also from Recife or Teresina. From the terminal, take a bike taxi to Praca Cristo Rei where there is a hotel and internet cafe. The bus leaves here for Arajara Park every hour or 2. One leaves at 8am and returns at 10 or 12. It only takes about 20 minutes to get there (1R). The place is an aquatic park with swimmingpools but also has a kind of forest walk where the manakin is easy to see. At the gate, ask for Ze Marco the manager. He knows the birds quite well and can even whistle them in. When I said I just wanted to see the birds I wasn't charged for using the complex. For more information on the species, contact Weber Silva (one of the discoverers) [email protected]
I saw 39 species including 4 lifers

Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris
Short-tailed Hawk Buteo brachyurus Possibly seen Recorded
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
Planalto Hermit Phaethornis pretrei Recorded
Glittering-bellied Emerald Chlorostilbon aureoventris Possibly seen
Blue-crowned Trogon Trogon curucui Possibly heard
Little Woodpecker Veniliornis passerinus
Olivaceous Woodcreeper Sittasomus griseicapillus Recorded
Great Antshrike Taraba major
Black-capped Antwren Herpsilochmus atricapillus
Araripe Manakin Antilophia bokermanni Endemic Critically endangered Photographed Recorded
Yellow-bellied Elaenia Elaenia flavogaster
Yellow-breasted Flycatcher Tolmomyias flaviventris
Black-tailed Flycatcher Myiobius atricaudus
Euler's Flycatcher Lathrotriccus euleri
Brown-crested Flycatcher Myiarchus tyrannulus
Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Gray-breasted Martin Progne chalybea
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
Long-billed Wren Thryothorus longirostris Endemic Possibly heard Photographed Recorded
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Rufous-bellied Thrush Turdus rufiventris
Pale-breasted Thrush Turdus leucomelas
Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild Introduced species Recorded
Golden-crowned Warbler Basileuterus culicivorus
Flavescent Warbler Basileuterus flaveolus
White-lined Tanager Tachyphonus rufus Photographed
Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca
Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum
Purple-throated Euphonia Euphonia chlorotica
Burnished-buff Tanager Tangara cayana
Pectoral Sparrow Arremon taciturnus
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
House Sparrow Passer domesticus Introduced species


3. Fazenda Bananeira, Murici, Alagoas       28th-31st October, 2006

   This is one of the few remaining forests in the region containing some very rare and localized endemics. Many people stay at a place called Posada Quilombo in Uniao do Palmares and hire a vehicle there to take them to the forest. This costs almost $300 for the day but there is a much cheaper way to visit the reserve. I stayed in the town of Murici. There is a hotel called Sao Luis which is R12 for a single room. Murici is a fairly small town and is reached in about an hour by several buses leaving daily (including 10am and 3pm) from the terminal in Maceio (6R). In Murici I searched for a motorbike taxi driver who knew where Fazenda Bananeira was. Apparently some drivers know and others don't. My driver was reliable and knew the place well. His name is Lyon and cell phone 88395228. Alternatively, moto-taxi drivers hang around the entrance to the town. Ask them if they know Fazenda Bananeira and 'reserva forestal'.
   By motorbike it takes about 45 minutes to the forest. My driver charged me R40 round trip on the first occasion and R50 the second. The directions, just in case: Turn left onto the main road leaving Murici (away from Maceio). After less than a km, turn right onto a dirt road where there is an electric sub-station. Follow this road along for several kms (ignoring side roads) to a place called Fazenda Amora. This is the first group of buildings you get to. A short distance after the buildings, there is a fork in the road. Go left. Follow this straight on, ignoring where another road cuts accross. The road gets narrower and narrower until cars (you need to take a different route) cannot pass. You will pass another Fazenda called Estreito. Keep going straight until you get to Bananeira where there is a big lake on the left. From here, keep going straight. The road splits into 3, take the middle one. Get dropped at the top where there is a gate, and on the other side a sign with the writing rubbed off. Turn left up the hill with forest on your left. You enter the forest proper after 10-15 minutes walking.
   The forest remnant on the left, from lower down to where you enter the forest is good for Seven-coloured Tanager and Black-necked Aracari. Less than 50m from the sign is a big tree with a couple of smaller dead trees on the left. Here I saw a group of Jandaya Parakeets in the morning. 1-200m before entering the forest, at a right turn before a steep climb is an entrance to a trail. Follow this trail right down to the bottom, then turn right and follow it along the slope. The second half of this trail is excellent and has more birds than most of the other areas. Here I saw White-flanked Antwren, Seven-colored & Opal-rumped Tanagers, Black-necked Aracari, Planalto Hermit, White-throated Spadebill and Slender-footed Tyrannulet. The trail pops out onto the main trail through the forest if you had gone straight.
   The the main trail is OK but can be a bit quiet. There are many side trails, some worth exploring. At the first main fork in the trail, the right has a tree fall straight away. This junction is good for Yellow-green Grosbeak and nearby for all 3 manakin species, Long-billed Gnatwren, Scalloped Antbird, White-backed Fire-eye and Rufous-winged Antwren. Eventually you will come to a second fork. Take the right and go past a couple of tree falls and arrive at the site of an old house by a creek. This clearing is the only place I saw Orange-bellied Antwren which was responsive to playback from up in the tree tops. Also here I heard Black-headed Berryeater. In the forest on the other side of the creek I saw Black-cheeked Gnateater and Willis's Antbird.
   In general I found birding at the reserve very slow and I went long periods of time seeing no birds. Camping maybe an option down one of the many side trails. I met several people along the main trail. Mostly farm workers but also 1 hunter.
I saw 90 species including 13 lifers

Small-billed Tinamou Crypturellus parvirostris Possibly heard
Great Egret Ardea alba Seen near murici
Snowy Egret Egretta thula
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris Photographed
White-tailed Hawk Buteo albicaudatus Photographed
Crested Caracara Caracara cheriway
Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima
American Kestrel Falco sparverius Possibly seen
Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis Heard only
Pale-vented Pigeon Patagioenas cayennensis
Gray-fronted Dove Leptotila rufaxilla
Jandaya Parakeet Aratinga jandaya Endemic Photographed Recorded
Peach-fronted Parakeet Aratinga aurea Heard only Recorded
Blue-winged Parrotlet Forpus xanthopterygius Seen near murici
Plain Parakeet Brotogeris tirica Endemic Heard only Recorded
Blue-headed Parrot Pionus menstruus Possibly heard Recorded?
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
Guira Cuckoo Guira guira
Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia Heard only
Pauraque Nyctidromus albicollis Recorded
Planalto Hermit Phaethornis pretrei Recorded
Reddish Hermit Phaethornis ruber Photographed Recorded
Swallow-tailed Hummingbird Eupetomena macrourus Seen near murici
Blue-crowned Motmot Momotus momota
Black-necked Aracari Pteroglossus aracari Recorded
Channel-billed Toucan Ramphastos vitellinus Possibly heard
Golden-spangled Piculet Picumnus exilis
Red-stained Woodpecker Veniliornis affinis Photographed Recorded
Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus Recorded
Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus Possibly seen
Common Thornbird Phacellodomus rufifrons
Plain Xenops Xenops minutus
Lesser Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus fuscus
Buff-throated Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus guttatus Possibly seen Recorded
Plain Antvireo Dysithamnus mentalis Recorded
White-flanked Antwren Myrmotherula axillaris Recorded
Alagoas Antwren Myrmotherula snowi Endemic Critically endangered
Rufous-winged Antwren Herpsilochmus rufimarginatus
Orange-bellied Antwren Terenura sicki Endemic Endangered Recorded
Willis's Antbird Cercomacra laeta Endemic Recorded
White-backed Fire-eye Pyriglena leuconota Recorded
Scalloped Antbird Myrmeciza ruficauda Endemic Endangered Photographed Recorded
Black-cheeked Gnateater Conopophaga melanops Endemic Recorded
Black-headed Berryeater Carpornis melanocephalus Endemic Vulnerable Heard only Recorded
White-bearded Manakin Manacus manacus Recorded
Blue-backed Manakin Chiroxiphia pareola Photographed Recorded
Red-headed Manakin Pipra rubrocapilla Photographed Recorded
Thrush-like Schiffornis Schiffornis turdinus Recorded
Yellow-bellied Elaenia Elaenia flavogaster
Slender-footed Tyrannulet Zimmerius gracilipes Possibly seen
Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant Hemitriccus margaritaceiventer Photographed Recorded
Yellow-olive Flycatcher Tolmomyias sulphurescens Recorded
Gray-crowned Flycatcher Tolmomyias poliocephalus Possibly seen
White-throated Spadebill Platyrinchus mystaceus Photographed Recorded
Cliff Flycatcher Hirundinea ferruginea Recorded
Tropical Pewee Contopus cinereus Possibly seen
White-headed Marsh-Tyrant Arundinicola leucocephala
Bright-rumped Attila Attila spadiceus Recorded
Grayish Mourner Rhytipterna simplex
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus
Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
White-winged Becard Pachyramphus polychopterus
Black-crowned Tityra Tityra inquisitor Possibly seen
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
Moustached Wren Thryothorus genibarbis Heard only Recorded
Chalk-browed Mockingbird Mimus saturninus
Pale-breasted Thrush Turdus leucomelas Heard only Recorded
Long-billed Gnatwren Ramphocaenus melanurus Recorded
Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis Recorded
Golden-crowned Warbler Basileuterus culicivorus
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola
Yellow-backed Tanager Hemithraupis flavicollis Recorded
Flame-crested Tanager Tachyphonus cristatus
Brazilian Tanager Ramphocelus bresilius Endemic
Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca
Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum
Violaceous Euphonia Euphonia violacea Recorded
Seven-colored Tanager Tangara fastuosa Endemic Endangered Photographed Recorded
Burnished-buff Tanager Tangara cayana
Opal-rumped Tanager Tangara velia
Blue Dacnis Dacnis cayana
Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina
Buff-throated Saltator Saltator maximus
Yellow-green Grosbeak Caryothraustes canadensis Recorded
House Sparrow Passer domesticus Introduced species


4. Santo Amaro area       5th & 7th November, 2006

   Forest near Santo Amaro harbours the endangered endemic Fringe-backed Fire-eye. I birded 2 days in the area as day trips from Salvador. It takes about an hour and a half to the site by bus from the terminal in Salvador which makes it a little difficult to get there early and staying in Cachoeira or Santo Amaro might be a better option. The birds I found though were more vocal in the mid-morning so there is no need to be there too early. Santana buses leave Salvador at 5:30, 6:30 and 7:30 and cost about R12 (you may have trouble explaining where you want to go when you buy your ticket). If you don't mind paying a bit extra, just buy a ticket to Sao Felix. The site is about 10km passed Santo Amaro (1hr 10) and takes about another 20 minutes. You could also catch a bus to Santo Amaro or Bom Jesus and get a minibus or moto-taxi further along.
   The difficult part is knowing where to get off. About 3-4kms from the terminal you pass a big paper-making factory on the right. A short distance after this there is an obvious left turn. Continue straight along here and after a few more kms look out for a big concrete pull-out. A short distance after this there is a gravel track leading to the left. This area has lots of planted bamboo but you can see the forest on a hill behind. This track comes to a gate which is wired shut. This is private land belonging to the IBP paper company so you should probably ask permission to enter, although you will almost certainly not come accross anyone there. After passing the gate, you come to an open area where caustic soda is dumped. On the right of this area is the start of an overgrown trail. Follow this along passed a couple of stagnant streams. This area ia all planted with bamboo and the idea is to walk up through the bamboo between the streams to the forest edge. It is on this edge that you can find the fire-eyes. Playback is needed although I forgot my machine and still managed to see them. I made the mistake of going up into the forest but actually saw the birds on the bamboo side of the edge. Further along the road are other patches of forest worth exploring. Where the road goes up, I explored along a trail to the left which led to a patch of forest with 4 manakin species including Striped.
I saw 57 species including 5 lifers

Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes burrovianus Photographed
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris
Zone-tailed Hawk Buteo albonotatus
Crested Caracara Caracara cheriway
Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima
Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
Pale-vented Pigeon Patagioenas cayennensis
Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti
Scaled Dove Columbina squammata
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi Heard only
Brown-throated Parakeet Aratinga pertinax
Blue-winged Parrotlet Forpus xanthopterygius
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana Heard only
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
Gray-rumped Swift Chaetura cinereiventris Possibly seen
Rufous-breasted Hermit Glaucis hirsuta Photographed
Reddish Hermit Phaethornis ruber
Golden-spangled Piculet Picumnus exilis
Little Woodpecker Veniliornis passerinus Possibly seen
Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus Possibly seen
Sooty-fronted Spinetail Synallaxis frontalis Heard only
Thrush-like Woodcreeper Dendrocincla turdina Possibly seen
Wedge-billed Woodcreeper Glyphorynchus spirurus Possibly seen
Buff-throated Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus guttatus
Plain Antvireo Dysithamnus mentalis Heard only
White-fringed Antwren Formicivora grisea Photographed
Fringe-backed Fire-eye Pyriglena atra Endemic Critically endangered
White-bearded Manakin Manacus manacus
Blue-backed Manakin Chiroxiphia pareola Heard only
Red-headed Manakin Pipra rubrocapilla Photographed
Eastern Striped Manakin Machaeropterus regulus Endemic Photographed
Common Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum cinereum
Cattle Tyrant Machetornis rixosus
Brown-crested Flycatcher Myiarchus tyrannulus Possibly heard
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Gray-breasted Martin Progne chalybea
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
Moustached Wren Thryothorus genibarbis Heard only
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Pale-breasted Thrush Turdus leucomelas
Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola
Hooded Tanager Nemosia pileata
Brazilian Tanager Ramphocelus bresilius Endemic
Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca
Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum
Violaceous Euphonia Euphonia violacea
Red-cowled Cardinal Paroaria dominicana Endemic
Buff-throated Saltator Saltator maximus
Blue-black Grosbeak Cyanocompsa cyanoides
Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis
Epaulet Oriole Icterus cayanensis
House Sparrow Passer domesticus Introduced species Seen in Santo Amaro


5. Jeremoaba area       9th November, 2006

   This is the easiest place to see the Critically endangered Lear's Macaw. Jeremoabo can be reached by bus from Salvador. I took a 'Regional' company bus which left at 8am, took 7 hours and cost 54R. Jeremoabo is a medium-sized town with a couple of places to stay and few places to eat and do internet. The macaws roost closer to Canudos but spend their days feeding on palm fruits on privately owned cattle ranches. One owner is very friendly and supports conservation of the birds. Some birding groups go unannounced and tip the worker Ze Hilton but it would probably be better to ask permission from the owner called Toureiro. He also owns the BR gas station on the main road near Jeremoabo. His telephone number is 75 32032424. There is a problem with illegal trafficking of the species so people can be suspicious. His ranch is about 50km from Jeremoaba towards Canudos along an unpaved road. The nearest community is called Agua Branca which can be reached by bus from Jeremoaba (leaving at 8am) and from there you may be able to pay someone to take you the last 10 minutes if you don't have your own transportation. Pedro Lima (see next section) is a good source of information on the species.
I saw 33 species including 2 lifers

Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris Heard only
Crested Caracara Caracara cheriway
Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima
American Kestrel Falco sparverius Photographed
Red-legged Seriema Cariama cristata Heard only Recorded
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis Recorded
Picui Ground-Dove Columbina picui Recorded?
Lear's Macaw Anodorhynchus leari Endemic Critically endangered Photographed Recorded
Blue-winged Parrotlet Forpus xanthopterygius
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
Guira Cuckoo Guira guira
Burrowing Owl Athene cunicularia Photographed Recorded
Pale-legged Hornero Furnarius leucopus
Yellow-chinned Spinetail Certhiaxis cinnamomea Heard only
White Monjita Xolmis irupero
Masked Water-Tyrant Fluvicola nengeta
Cattle Tyrant Machetornis rixosus
Brown-crested Flycatcher Myiarchus tyrannulus
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
House Wren Troglodytes aedon Recorded?
Flavescent Warbler Basileuterus flaveolus
Chestnut-vented Conebill Conirostrum speciosum
Hooded Tanager Nemosia pileata Recorded?
Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca
Red-cowled Cardinal Paroaria dominicana Endemic Recorded
Grassland Sparrow Ammodramus humeralis
Bay-winged Cowbird Molothrus badius
Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis
House Sparrow Passer domesticus Introduced species


6. CETREL & Sauipe       10th November, 2006

   I visited Pedro Lima at his office at the CETREL petrochemical company and also accompanied him briefly to Sauipe where there is a new museum of natural history. The CETREL complex has many nest boxes ans also introduced populations of birds. One of the most important being the Golden-capped Parakeets. Sauipe also has an introduced population of endangered Cebus monkeys. I went there by by car but buses from Rio pass regularly. CETREL is near to Praia do Forte. Contact Pedro Lima for details.
I saw 39 species including 3 lifers

Least Grebe Tachybaptus dominicus
Great Egret Ardea alba
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Seen nearby
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Crested Caracara Caracara cheriway
Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima
Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Introduced species Seen nearby
Scaled Dove Columbina squammata
Golden-capped Parakeet Aratinga auricapilla Endemic Near-threatened
Plain Parakeet Brotogeris tirica Endemic Seen nearby
Orange-winged Parrot Amazona amazonica
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
Guira Cuckoo Guira guira
Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium brasilianum Photographed
Swallow-tailed Hummingbird Eupetomena macrourus Seen nearby
Horned Sungem Heliactin bilopha Photographed
Ringed Kingfisher Ceryle torquatus
Green Kingfisher Chloroceryle americana Heard only
Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus
Yellow-chinned Spinetail Certhiaxis cinnamomea Heard only
Caatinga Cacholote Pseudoseisura cristata Endemic Possibly seen
Masked Water-Tyrant Fluvicola nengeta
Cattle Tyrant Machetornis rixosus
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Gray-breasted Martin Progne chalybea
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Tropical Mockingbird Mimus gilvus
Pale-breasted Thrush Turdus leucomelas
Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca
Burnished-buff Tanager Tangara cayana
Yellow-bellied Seedeater Sporophila nigricollis
White-throated Seedeater Sporophila albogularis Endemic
Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola
Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis
House Sparrow Passer domesticus Introduced species


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7. Michelin plantation, near Itubera       12th-13th November, 2006

   This private reserve is one of the few places where the critically endangered endemic Bahia Tapaculo has been found. Pedro Lima sorted out my visit with one of his assistants who work there (Zildomar). There is a Centre for the Study of Biodiversity at the Michelin Forest and it has excellent facilities to stay. It is run by an American called Kevin Flesher [email protected] and a visit there could be aranged through him. His specialty is mammals and he doesn't know the tapaculo so ask to meet Zildomar (no English). There are 3 areas of forest and the Tapaculo has been found at all of them. The best guide is a man called Manuel who knows the species well. Aswell as the 3 areas of forest, the Panacada Grande waterfall is a must to see. Great Dusky swifts roost beneath it and are best seen at dusk.
   Itubera can be reached from Bom Despacho by regular bus. Bom Despacho is reached by regular ferry from Salvador. Beware, there are 2 ferries. This one is known as Ferry Boat (fe-hi bodgie) and leaves from Sao Joaquim. This is quicker and cheaper than going direct by bus from the terminal in Salvador. Itubera is also connected by bus with Ubaitaba, from where buses connect further south.
I saw 94 species including 7 lifers

Little Tinamou Crypturellus soui Heard only
Red-winged Tinamou Rhynchotus rufescens
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes burrovianus
Gray Hawk Asturina nitida Recorded
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris Recorded
Crested Caracara Caracara cheriway Possibly seen
Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima
Rufous-sided Crake Laterallus melanophaius Heard only Recorded
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Introduced species
Pale-vented Pigeon Patagioenas cayennensis
Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti
Scaled Dove Columbina squammata
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi Possibly seen
Peach-fronted Parakeet Aratinga aurea
Blue-winged Parrotlet Forpus xanthopterygius
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana Heard only
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia
Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium brasilianum
Great Dusky Swift Cypseloides senex
Rufous-breasted Hermit Glaucis hirsuta
Reddish Hermit Phaethornis ruber
Swallow-tailed Hummingbird Eupetomena macrourus Photographed
Black-throated Mango Anthracothorax nigricollis
Glittering-bellied Emerald Chlorostilbon aureoventris Possibly seen
White-chinned Sapphire Hylocharis cyanus Possibly seen
Versicolored Emerald Agyrtria versicolor Photographed
Spotted Piculet Picumnus pygmaeus Endemic Photographed
Yellow-throated Woodpecker Piculus flavigula
Green-barred Woodpecker Colaptes melanochloros
Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus
Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus
Sooty-fronted Spinetail Synallaxis frontalis Heard only
Common Thornbird Phacellodomus rufifrons
White-eyed Foliage-gleaner Automolus leucophthalmus Recorded
Wedge-billed Woodcreeper Glyphorynchus spirurus
Lesser Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus fuscus
Great Antshrike Taraba major Heard only
Barred Antshrike Thamnophilus doliatus Heard only
Chestnut-backed Antshrike Thamnophilus palliatus
Sooretama Slaty-Antshrike Thamnophilus ambiguus Photographed
Plain Antvireo Dysithamnus mentalis Possibly heard
Cinereous Antshrike Thamnomanes caesius
Band-tailed Antwren Myrmotherula urosticta Endemic Endangered
Scaled Antbird Drymophila squamata Endemic
Scalloped Antbird Myrmeciza ruficauda Endemic Endangered Recorded
Red-headed Manakin Pipra rubrocapilla
Yellow Tyrannulet Capsiempis flaveola
Yellow-bellied Elaenia Elaenia flavogaster
Common Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum cinereum
Bran-colored Flycatcher Myiophobus fasciatus
Masked Water-Tyrant Fluvicola nengeta Photographed
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua
Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Gray-breasted Martin Progne chalybea
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
Moustached Wren Thryothorus genibarbis
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Rufous-bellied Thrush Turdus rufiventris
Pale-breasted Thrush Turdus leucomelas
Tropical Gnatcatcher Polioptila plumbea
Red-eyed Vireo Vireo olivaceus
Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola
Chestnut-vented Conebill Conirostrum speciosum
Hooded Tanager Nemosia pileata
Flame-crested Tanager Tachyphonus cristatus
White-lined Tanager Tachyphonus rufus
Brazilian Tanager Ramphocelus bresilius Endemic Photographed Recorded
Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca
Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum Photographed
Purple-throated Euphonia Euphonia chlorotica
Violaceous Euphonia Euphonia violacea Recorded
Turquoise Tanager Tangara mexicana
Green-headed Tanager Tangara seledon Photographed Recorded
Burnished-buff Tanager Tangara cayana Photographed
Blue Dacnis Dacnis cayana
Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina
Yellow-bellied Seedeater Sporophila nigricollis
White-bellied Seedeater Sporophila leucoptera Photographed
Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola
Buff-throated Saltator Saltator maximus Photographed
Green-winged Saltator Saltator similis
Bay-winged Cowbird Molothrus badius
Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis
Red-rumped Cacique Cacicus haemorrhous Recorded
Yellow-faced Siskin Carduelis yarrellii Endemic Vulnerable Possibly seen
House Sparrow Passer domesticus Introduced species


8. Una Ecoparque       14th November, 2006

   I visited this site by car with 2 Brazilian Ornithologists, Cassiano and Andre, both who work in the area and know the birds very well. They are both good sources of information and speak good English. I stayed in the town of Ilheus which has a nice church. We stayed in Posada Brisa do Mar for R20 per person including breakfast. There is also internet and a few OK restaurants in town. Lebanese cuisine is the speciality here. There is also a fantastic ice cream parlour. A visit to Una Ecoparque would normally have to be arranged in advance. The Reserva Biological is apparently very difficult to get permission to visit but the birds are very similar. Bahia Tapaculo and Red-billed Curassow have both been seen at the reserves and Cassiano studied both of these species.
   After entering, we parked by a small wetland on the right after which there is a trail entering the forest. This has great birding and we saw Zone-tailed Hawk, Black-eared Fairy, Cinnamon and Greyish Mourners and Temminck's Seedeater (very vocal). We also heard Screaming Piha, Pileated Antren and Blue-throated Parakeet. The trail leads to a canopy walkway which was an excellent place to spend a couple of hours in the mourning. From the small wetland (look out for Lesser Kiskadee) go up the hill and along the road for a few hundred metres where there is a small opening on the right where a trail starts. A few minutes down here is a small stream. Near here in very dense undergrowth is a territory for Bahia Tapaculo. Red-billed Curassow is difficult at Una
I saw 66 species including 6 lifers

Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris Possibly seen
Zone-tailed Hawk Buteo albonotatus
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis
Peach-fronted Parakeet Aratinga aurea
Blue-throated Parakeet Pyrrhura cruentata Endemic Vulnerable Heard only
Plain Parakeet Brotogeris tirica Endemic
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana
Guira Cuckoo Guira guira Seen on the way to Una
Lesser Nighthawk Chordeiles acutipennis Possibly seen
Reddish Hermit Phaethornis ruber
Black-eared Fairy Heliothryx aurita
White-tailed Trogon Trogon viridis
Red-stained Woodpecker Veniliornis affinis
Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus
Streaked Xenops Xenops rutilans Possibly seen
White-eyed Foliage-gleaner Automolus leucophthalmus Heard only
Thrush-like Woodcreeper Dendrocincla turdina Heard only
Olivaceous Woodcreeper Sittasomus griseicapillus
Wedge-billed Woodcreeper Glyphorynchus spirurus
Lesser Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus fuscus
Cinereous Antshrike Thamnomanes caesius Heard only
Band-tailed Antwren Myrmotherula urosticta Endemic Endangered Heard only
Pileated Antwren Herpsilochmus pileatus Endemic Vulnerable Heard only
Streak-capped Antwren Terenura maculata
Screaming Piha Lipaugus vociferans Heard only
White-crowned Manakin Dixiphia pipra
Eastern Striped Manakin Machaeropterus regulus Endemic
Thrush-like Schiffornis Schiffornis turdinus Heard only
White-lored Tyrannulet Ornithion inerme
Sepia-capped Flycatcher Leptopogon amaurocephalus
Planalto Tyrannulet Phyllomyias fasciatus Heard only
Eared Pygmy-Tyrant Myiornis auricularis
Whiskered Flycatcher Myiobius barbatus Photographed
Bright-rumped Attila Attila spadiceus Heard only
Cinereous Mourner Laniocera hypopyrra
Grayish Mourner Rhytipterna simplex Heard only
Lesser Kiskadee Philohydor lictor Photographed
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua Heard only
Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis
Piratic Flycatcher Legatus leucophaius Heard only
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Green-backed Becard Pachyramphus viridis
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
Moustached Wren Thryothorus genibarbis Heard only
Pale-breasted Thrush Turdus leucomelas
Red-eyed Vireo Vireo olivaceus
Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis Heard only
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola
Yellow-backed Tanager Hemithraupis flavicollis
Hooded Tanager Nemosia pileata
White-lined Tanager Tachyphonus rufus
Brazilian Tanager Ramphocelus bresilius Endemic
Violaceous Euphonia Euphonia violacea
Orange-bellied Euphonia Euphonia xanthogaster
Turquoise Tanager Tangara mexicana
Opal-rumped Tanager Tangara velia
Blue Dacnis Dacnis cayana
Green Honeycreeper Chlorophanes spiza
Temminck's Seedeater Sporophila falcirostris Endemic Vulnerable
Yellow-bellied Seedeater Sporophila nigricollis
Buff-throated Saltator Saltator maximus
Yellow-green Grosbeak Caryothraustes canadensis
Red-rumped Cacique Cacicus haemorrhous


9. Boa Nova       16th November, 2006

   Boa Nova was one of the highlights of my Brazil birding. Apparently it has more endemics per square km than anywhere else in Brazil. It has some fantastic dry forest birds, including Slender Antbird and also great humid forest. These 2 habitats have totally different birds even they're only 10km apart. Boa Nova can be reached easily by bus from Itabuna. There are apparently 3 places to stay in town. Posada Solar is the best of a bad bunch and is R20 per person per night without breakfast.
   The dry forest is just 2km from town and can be easily walked. Go down out of town to the main road and turn left heading towards Dario Meira. After a km or 2 you reach a bridge over a river. Here I saw Chestnut-capped Blackbird, Yellow-chinned Spinetail and Masked Water-Tyrant and heard Rufous-sided Crake. After the bridge there is a farmhouse (Rufous Cachalote) on the left where you should ask permission to enter the land further on. Just after the farmhouse is a gate on the left where you can enter and walk up to the dry forest above. Along the track I saw Pileated Finch and White-flanked Antwren. After a short distance there is a small entrance to a trail through the forest. Here I saw Grey-headed Spinetail. When it comes back out onto the main track, before a gate, there are trails on the other side where I saw Silvery-cheeked Antshrike, Green-winged Saltator and Fuscous Flycatcher. I didn’t explore past this gate. Back at the main road, continue along to another gate on the left after 700m. Between these 2 gates I saw Zone-tailed Hawk, Ruby-topaz Hummingbird, Dark-bileld Cuckoo and Wing-banded Hornero. The gate has some warnings not to enter. I assumed it was the same owner at the house but this maybe worth checking if you are concerned. After the gate, the path splits into 3. Take the right, climb through a fence and up into nice dry forest. Along here I saw Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant, Narrow-billed Antwren, Moustached Antwren, Stripe-backed Antbird and the endangered endemic Slender Antbird.
   The humid forest is another 10km. I walked but better is a bus which passes a stop below the town a bit before 8am, although it seems quite variable. The road climbs up and up and reaches the highest point after about 6km. This pass was quite good and had Cinnamon and Gilt-edged Tanagers, Violaceous and Purple-throated Euphonias. The open area after this had White-bellied and Capped Seedeaters. Further down there is a small school on the left and then a white house with the sign ‘Sition Casa Branca’. Turn left after this at a sign for a farm. This track has good birding and I saw Amethyst Woodstar, Violet-crowned Woodnymph, Frilled Coquette and Bahia Spinetail. There is a path on the left leading up into the excellent forest. Here I saw White-eyed and White-collared Foliage-gleaners, Rufous-brown Solitaire, White-shouldered Fire-eye, Yellow-throated woodpecker, Tufted Antshrike, Red-crowned Ant-Tanager and further up Cinnamon-vented Piha, Ferruginous Antbird and Oustalet’s Tyrannulet. The path gets to a gate and you could explore further on.
I saw 156 species including 29 lifers

Little Tinamou Crypturellus soui Heard only
Red-winged Tinamou Rhynchotus rufescens
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes burrovianus
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris
Zone-tailed Hawk Buteo albonotatus
Crested Caracara Caracara cheriway
Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima
American Kestrel Falco sparverius
Rufous-sided Crake Laterallus melanophaius Heard only
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis
Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti
Picui Ground-Dove Columbina picui
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi Heard only
White-eyed Parakeet Aratinga leucophthalmus Possibly seen
Caatinga Parakeet Aratinga cactorum Endemic Photographed
Blue-throated Parakeet Pyrrhura cruentata Endemic Vulnerable
Blue-winged Parrotlet Forpus xanthopterygius
Dark-billed Cuckoo Coccyzus melacoryphus
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana Heard only
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
Guira Cuckoo Guira guira Photographed
Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia Heard only
Rufous-breasted Hermit Glaucis hirsuta
Reddish Hermit Phaethornis ruber
Sombre Hummingbird Campylopterus cirrochloris Endemic Possibly seen
Black-throated Mango Anthracothorax nigricollis
Ruby-topaz Hummingbird Chrysolampis mosquitus
Frilled Coquette Lophornis magnificus Endemic Photographed
Glittering-bellied Emerald Chlorostilbon aureoventris
Violet-capped Woodnymph Thalurania glaucopis Photographed
Sapphire-spangled Emerald Polyerata lactea
Amethyst Woodstar Calliphlox amethystina Photographed
White-tailed Trogon Trogon viridis Heard only
White-fronted Nunbird Monasa morphoeus
Swallow-wing Chelidoptera tenebrosa
Golden-spangled Piculet Picumnus exilis
Red-stained Woodpecker Veniliornis affinis Photographed
Yellow-throated Woodpecker Piculus flavigula Photographed
Green-barred Woodpecker Colaptes melanochloros
Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus
Pale-legged Hornero Furnarius leucopus
Tail-banded Hornero Furnarius figulus Endemic Photographed
Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus
Bahia Spinetail Synallaxis whitneyi Endemic Vulnerable Photographed Recorded
Sooty-fronted Spinetail Synallaxis frontalis
Gray-headed Spinetail Cranioleuca semicinerea Endemic
Yellow-chinned Spinetail Certhiaxis cinnamomea
Common Thornbird Phacellodomus rufifrons
Caatinga Cacholote Pseudoseisura cristata Endemic Possibly seen
Plain Xenops Xenops minutus Recorded
Pale-browed Treehunter Cichlocolaptes leucophrus Endemic
Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner Philydor rufus Possibly seen
White-collared Foliage-gleaner Anabazenops fuscus Endemic
White-eyed Foliage-gleaner Automolus leucophthalmus
Thrush-like Woodcreeper Dendrocincla turdina
Olivaceous Woodcreeper Sittasomus griseicapillus
White-throated Woodcreeper Xiphocolaptes albicollis Photographed
Lesser Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus fuscus
Straight-billed Woodcreeper Dendroplex picus
Spot-backed Antshrike Hypoedaleus guttatus Recorded
Tufted Antshrike Mackenziaena severa
Silvery-cheeked Antshrike Sakesphorus cristatus Endemic Photographed
Barred Antshrike Thamnophilus doliatus Heard only
Sooretama Slaty-Antshrike Thamnophilus ambiguus Endemic Photographed
Variable Antshrike Thamnophilus caerulescens Photographed
Spot-breasted Antvireo Dysithamnus stictothorax Endemic Near-threatened
Stripe-backed Antbird Myrmorchilus strigilatus Photographed
Black-capped Antwren Herpsilochmus atricapillus
Pileated Antwren Herpsilochmus pileatus Endemic Vulnerable Heard only
Rufous-winged Antwren Herpsilochmus rufimarginatus
Narrow-billed Antwren Neorhopias iheringi Endemic Near-threatened Photographed
White-fringed Antwren Formicivora grisea
Ferruginous Antbird Drymophila ferruginea Endemic Photographed
Streak-capped Antwren Terenura maculata Possibly heard
Rio de Janeiro Antbird Cercomacra brasiliana Endemic Near-threatened
White-shouldered Fire-eye Pyriglena leucoptera Photographed
Slender Antbird Rhopornis ardesiaca Endemic Endangered Photographed
Rufous Gnateater Conopophaga lineata Photographed
Sharpbill Oxyruncus cristatus
Cinnamon-vented Piha Lipaugus lanioides Endemic Vulnerable
White-bearded Manakin Manacus manacus
Blue Manakin Chiroxiphia caudata Photographed
Mouse-colored Tyrannulet Phaeomyias murina
Yellow Tyrannulet Capsiempis flaveola Photographed
Yellow-bellied Elaenia Elaenia flavogaster
Plain-crested Elaenia Elaenia cristata Possibly seen
White-bellied Tyrannulet Serpophaga munda Possibly seen
Sepia-capped Flycatcher Leptopogon amaurocephalus
Oustalet's Tyrannulet Phylloscartes oustaleti Endemic Near-threatened Photographed
Drab-breasted Bamboo-Tyrant Hemitriccus diops Photographed
Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant Hemitriccus margaritaceiventer
Common Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum cinereum Heard only
Yellow-lored Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum poliocephalum Endemic
Bran-colored Flycatcher Myiophobus fasciatus
Whiskered Flycatcher Myiobius barbatus
Fuscous Flycatcher Cnemotriccus fuscatus Photographed
White Monjita Xolmis irupero
Masked Water-Tyrant Fluvicola nengeta
Yellow-browed Tyrant Satrapa icterophrys
Long-tailed Tyrant Colonia colonus Photographed
Cattle Tyrant Machetornis rixosus
Grayish Mourner Rhytipterna simplex Photographed
Swainson's Flycatcher Myiarchus swainsoni Possibly seen Photographed?
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus
Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis
Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculatus
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Chestnut-crowned Becard Pachyramphus castaneus
Brown-chested Martin Progne tapera
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
Moustached Wren Thryothorus genibarbis
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Chalk-browed Mockingbird Mimus saturninus
Rufous-brown Solitaire Cichlopsis leucogenys Rare/Accidental
Rufous-bellied Thrush Turdus rufiventris
Pale-breasted Thrush Turdus leucomelas
Cocoa Thrush Turdus fumigatus
Tropical Gnatcatcher Polioptila plumbea
Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild Introduced species
Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis
Masked Yellowthroat Geothlypis aequinoctialis
Golden-crowned Warbler Basileuterus culicivorus
Flavescent Warbler Basileuterus flaveolus
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola
Cinnamon Tanager Schistochlamys ruficapillus Photographed
Orange-headed Tanager Thlypopsis sordida
Flame-crested Tanager Tachyphonus cristatus
White-lined Tanager Tachyphonus rufus
Black-goggled Tanager Trichothraupis melanops Photographed
Red-crowned Ant-Tanager Habia rubica
Brazilian Tanager Ramphocelus bresilius Endemic Photographed
Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca
Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum
Purple-throated Euphonia Euphonia chlorotica
Violaceous Euphonia Euphonia violacea
Orange-bellied Euphonia Euphonia xanthogaster
Gilt-edged Tanager Tangara cyanoventris Endemic Photographed
Burnished-buff Tanager Tangara cayana
Pileated Finch Coryphospingus pileatus
Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina
Yellow-bellied Seedeater Sporophila nigricollis
White-throated Seedeater Sporophila albogularis Endemic Photographed
White-bellied Seedeater Sporophila leucoptera Photographed
Capped Seedeater Sporophila bouvreuil
Red-cowled Cardinal Paroaria dominicana Endemic
Grassland Sparrow Ammodramus humeralis
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Green-winged Saltator Saltator similis Photographed
Yellow-green Grosbeak Caryothraustes canadensis Photographed
Chestnut-capped Blackbird Chrysomus ruficapillus
White-browed Blackbird Sturnella superciliaris
Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis
House Sparrow Passer domesticus Introduced species


10. Sooretama Reserve       th November, 2006

   This is a biological reserve run by IBAMA. I was told that permission from IBAMA in Vitoria was needed to visit, but on going to the office there (wear trousers) I was told just to ask permission from the head of reserve itself. A man named Eliton. They gave me his number which I called and he said it was no problem to visit. He's a bit of an odd chap and on arriving at the reserve asked me lots of questions about what I wanted to do. He then told me it was forbidden to take photos which I told him was ridiculous and he got very angry. He's the kind of guy who likes to make things inconvenient for people to show how powerful he is, and its best just to humour him. If you want to take photos though (which I did), it might be worth going through IBAMA and asking for specific permission and maybe get something in writing to avoid the ridiculous situation I was in. Apart from that, people were very helpful and I was appointed a guide free of charge for 2 days and even driven to one of the further off trails.
   The small town of Sooretama makes the best base as it seems no longer possible to stay in the park. I asked and was turned down. Sooretama is on the main highway to Vitoria and any long distance buses will drop you off here. There are 2 hotels on the main road. Both very nice and charging 25R per person. We stayed at Hotel Lider. Eliton told me I could come at 8am so I took a taxi there which cost 35R and taking about 25 minutes. It is about 9km north on the main road, then another 16km to the reserve from the turn-off. Turn left off the main road at the sign for the Juncado. This small village is about 11km from the highway and the road is paved that far. After that it is a further 5km on a good gravel track. The cheapest way to get there though is by bus to Juncado which leaves in front of the supermarket at 6:15am and costs about 4R. It goes a different route but arrives in Juncado after about 45 minutes. Before you get there, it makes a left turn at a fenced coconut palm plantation. Get off here and turn right instead and go straight on to the reserve. This saves you about a km. A return bus goes the same route in the afternoon at about 4:10.
   The first day I birded the furthest trail which starts about 10km from the headquarters. To get there go straight on from the HQ and turn right at a fork. Then look for a right turn much further on with a gate. This track has mature forest on both sides and I heard several cracids which were probably all Red-billed Currasows although I only saw 1 well enough to ID. Other good birds along here were Hook-billed Hermit, Spot-winged Wood-Quail, Black-headed Berry-eater, Crested Becard and Hook-billed Kite. We had to turn back before the end as the guide said they had laser beam cameras set for photographing animals. I think he was just tired though. The second day we birded a different trail. Coming from Juncado, before the first forest, you pass over a bridge. Just after that the forest starts on the right and there is an entrance to a trail that goes along the edge of the forest. Along the first section I saw Jaguarundi and Capybara (the forest border a marsh area). Good birds along this trail wereRed-browed Parrot, Rufous Tiger-Heron, Flame-crested Tanager and Red-legged Honeycreeper. In a marshy area before bridge I saw Capped Heron, Yellow-chinned Spinetail and Dark-billed Cuckoo. Around the HQ itself I saw Green-headed Tanager,Plumbeus Kite, Swallow-wing Puffbird and Pileated Finch. There are also a couple of short trails which lead from the HQ compound that I didn't have time to adequately explore.
I saw 125 species including 6 lifers

Little Tinamou Crypturellus soui Heard only
Variegated Tinamou Crypturellus variegatus Heard only
Capped Heron Pilherodius pileatus
Rufescent Tiger-Heron Tigrisoma lineatum
Brazilian Teal Amazonetta brasiliensis
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes burrovianus
Hook-billed Kite Chondrohierax uncinatus Recorded
Plumbeous Kite Ictinia plumbea
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris
Crested Caracara Caracara cheriway
Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima
American Kestrel Falco sparverius
Red-billed Curassow Crax blumenbachii Endemic Endangered
Spot-winged Wood-Quail Odontophorus capueira
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis
Scaled Pigeon Patagioenas speciosa Heard only
Picazuro Pigeon Patagioenas picazuro
Pale-vented Pigeon Patagioenas cayennensis
Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti
Picui Ground-Dove Columbina picui
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi Heard only
Gray-fronted Dove Leptotila rufaxilla Possibly seen
Ruddy Quail-Dove Geotrygon montana
Blue-winged Macaw Primolius maracana Vulnerable
Blue-throated Parakeet Pyrrhura cruentata Endemic Vulnerable Recorded
Maroon-bellied Parakeet Pyrrhura frontalis Possibly seen
Blue-winged Parrotlet Forpus xanthopterygius Photographed
Plain Parakeet Brotogeris tirica Endemic Heard only
Red-browed Parrot Amazona rhodocorytha Endemic Endangered
Mealy Parrot Amazona farinosa Possibly seen
Dark-billed Cuckoo Coccyzus melacoryphus
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
Guira Cuckoo Guira guira
Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia Heard only
Pauraque Nyctidromus albicollis
Gray-rumped Swift Chaetura cinereiventris
Hook-billed Hermit Glaucis dohrnii Endemic Endangered
Minute Hermit Phaethornis idaliae Endemic
Swallow-tailed Hummingbird Eupetomena macrourus
Glittering-bellied Emerald Chlorostilbon aureoventris
White-chinned Sapphire Hylocharis cyanus
Versicolored Emerald Agyrtria versicolor
White-tailed Trogon Trogon viridis
Rufous-capped Motmot Baryphthengus ruficapillus
Rufous-tailed Jacamar Galbula ruficauda
Swallow-wing Chelidoptera tenebrosa Photographed
Channel-billed Toucan Ramphastos vitellinus Possibly heard
Little Woodpecker Veniliornis passerinus Photographed
Green-barred Woodpecker Colaptes melanochloros
Campo Flicker Colaptes campestris
Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus
Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus
Sooty-fronted Spinetail Synallaxis frontalis Heard only
Yellow-chinned Spinetail Certhiaxis cinnamomea
Streaked Xenops Xenops rutilans
White-eyed Foliage-gleaner Automolus leucophthalmus
Thrush-like Woodcreeper Dendrocincla turdina
Olivaceous Woodcreeper Sittasomus griseicapillus
White-throated Woodcreeper Xiphocolaptes albicollis
Great Antshrike Taraba major Heard only
Barred Antshrike Thamnophilus doliatus Heard only
Chestnut-backed Antshrike Thamnophilus palliatus
Sooretama Slaty-Antshrike Thamnophilus ambiguus Endemic
Plain Antvireo Dysithamnus mentalis Heard only
White-flanked Antwren Myrmotherula axillaris
Band-tailed Antwren Myrmotherula urosticta Endemic Endangered
Black-headed Berryeater Carpornis melanocephalus Endemic Vulnerable
Screaming Piha Lipaugus vociferans Heard only
White-bearded Manakin Manacus manacus
Thrush-like Schiffornis Schiffornis turdinus Heard only
Yellow-bellied Elaenia Elaenia flavogaster
Sepia-capped Flycatcher Leptopogon amaurocephalus
Eared Pygmy-Tyrant Myiornis auricularis
Yellow-olive Flycatcher Tolmomyias sulphurescens
Yellow-breasted Flycatcher Tolmomyias flaviventris
Masked Water-Tyrant Fluvicola nengeta
Cattle Tyrant Machetornis rixosus
Cinereous Mourner Laniocera hypopyrra
Sirystes Sirystes sibilator
Grayish Mourner Rhytipterna simplex
Dusky-capped Flycatcher Myiarchus tuberculifer
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua
Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis
Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculatus
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Chestnut-crowned Becard Pachyramphus castaneus
Black-capped Becard Pachyramphus marginatus
Crested Becard Pachyramphus validus
Black-crowned Tityra Tityra inquisitor
Gray-breasted Martin Progne chalybea
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
Moustached Wren Thryothorus genibarbis Possibly heard
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Chalk-browed Mockingbird Mimus saturninus
Rufous-bellied Thrush Turdus rufiventris
Pale-breasted Thrush Turdus leucomelas
Creamy-bellied Thrush Turdus amaurochalinus Possibly seen
Red-eyed Vireo Vireo olivaceus
Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis
Tropical Parula Parula pitiayumi
Chestnut-vented Conebill Conirostrum speciosum
Hooded Tanager Nemosia pileata
Flame-crested Tanager Tachyphonus cristatus
Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca
Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum
Violaceous Euphonia Euphonia violacea
Green-headed Tanager Tangara seledon
Burnished-buff Tanager Tangara cayana
Blue Dacnis Dacnis cayana
Red-legged Honeycreeper Cyanerpes cyaneus
Pileated Finch Coryphospingus pileatus Photographed
Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina Heard only
Yellow-bellied Seedeater Sporophila nigricollis
Double-collared Seedeater Sporophila caerulescens Photographed
Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola
Grassland Sparrow Ammodramus humeralis Heard only
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Yellow-green Grosbeak Caryothraustes canadensis Heard only
Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis
Red-rumped Cacique Cacicus haemorrhous
House Sparrow Passer domesticus Introduced species


11. Canastra National Park       26th-28th November, 2006

   The small town of Sao Roque de Minas makes a good base to bird in and around this national park. I came here from Rio de Janeiro and went from there to Belo Horizonte on a 'Util' bus leaving Rio at 8am, taking 6 hours and 20 minutes and costing R56.50. From Belo Horizonte I went to Piumhi on a 'Gardenia' bus which left at 6:30pm, taking 4 hours and costing R39. There was no bus to Sao Roque that day so I stayed over night in a 'Dormitorio' next to the terminal costing just R8. The 'Transimao' bus to Sao Roque leaves at 6:30am, takes about 2 hours and costs R9.50. In Sao Roque, there are several places to stay. The nicest is Chapada de Canastra but I stayed at the cheaper Faria's Hotel at R15 with breakfast. Both are at the bottom of the town which is on a big slope. There is also a nice restaurant in town and a place to do internet.
   The the most famous bird in the park is the critically endangered Brazilian Merganser. It is apparently difficult to find but I saw it on my second day within walking distance of the town and watched it for an hour down to 10m. There are 2 ways to get to the site. First, walk from Faria's towards Chapada and carry on. The paved road ends and a dirt track continues. It goes up to where you have a view over a bend in the river. Mergansers have been seen here. Carry on walking (either by the side of the river or just on the track) until you get to a bridge over the river. Here, the idea is to reach a farm on the left bank facing upstream. It seemed easier to walk along the right side and cross over later on. This may involve some climbing over fences and other improvization. If you make it to the farm house ask for Luiz, who runs a camping site, and for the path to the 'Cachoeira'. He also probably knows where the birds are. You could tip him or buy one of his sculptures. You go through a fence, from where there is a clear path along the left side of the river. Head to where the valley narrows and becomes a kind of canyon. At the narrowest part, look down and you should see a kind of natural pool between 2 sets of rapids. This is where the mergansers were between 10 and 11am. Instead of coming from the bridge, you can reach the farm house/camp site (Camping da Picareta) from the road towards the national park. At the top of the town, turn right at the cemetery and carry straight along (listen out for Red-legged Seriema), after 2-3kms turn right at the sign for Picareta. Foillow this along to the house and follow the previous instructions. On the last section is some nice habitat on the left where I saw Black-throated Saltator, Spot-breasted Woodpecker.
   I spent 1 day birding in the park which had fewer but some different birds. It opens at 8am and the entrance is about 7km along from the road previously mentioned. I walked from town which was pretty tiring, but you could easily hitch with IBAMA staff who pass by in the morning. The road up has good birding though and I saw Firewood-gatherer, Pileated Finch, Toco Toucan, Crested Black-Tyrant and Cinnamon Tanager. Around the farm house at the Picareta turn-off, check the palms for Golden-capped Parakeets. A bit further up there is another right turning, this one to the 'Capao Forro' waterfall which I reached a different way. It is 3R to get in but maybe another place to check for mergansers. Up towards the national park entrance you get a wonderful view over the valley and I saw Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle soaring and large flocks of Great Dusky Swifts which roost in the waterfall.
   After paying your 3R entrance fee keep on walking up to the Visitors centre where they have a nice exhibition photos. Walking further up you get to nice grassland but it had all been burnt and had many beautiful flowers. Along here I saw Stripe-tailed Yellow-Finch (common), Burrowing owl (perching on termite mounds), White-vented Violetear, Gray Monjita, White-tailed Hawk and heard Rufous-winged Tinamou. I walked as far as the origin of the Rio Sao Francisco where the stream goes under the road and there electric wires pass over head. This forest here is supposed to harbour Brasilia Tapaculo but they did not respond to playback for me. Here I saw Tawny-headed Swallow.
I saw 115 species including 7 lifers

Red-winged Tinamou Rhynchotus rufescens Heard only Recorded
Spotted Nothura Nothura maculosa
Cocoi Heron Ardea cocoi
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Buff-necked Ibis Theristicus caudatus Recorded
Muscovy Duck Cairina moschata
Brazilian Merganser Mergus octosetaceus Critically endangered Photographed Recorded
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Savanna Hawk Buteogallus meridionalis
Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle Geranoaetus melanoleucus Photographed
White-tailed Hawk Buteo albicaudatus
Crested Caracara Caracara cheriway Recorded
Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima Photographed Recorded
American Kestrel Falco sparverius Photographed
Aplomado Falcon Falco femoralis
Red-legged Seriema Cariama cristata Recorded
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Introduced species
Picazuro Pigeon Patagioenas picazuro
Pale-vented Pigeon Patagioenas cayennensis
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata
Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti
Scaled Dove Columbina squammata
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi
White-eyed Parakeet Aratinga leucophthalmus Photographed Recorded
Golden-capped Parakeet Aratinga auricapilla Endemic Near-threatened Photographed Recorded
Peach-fronted Parakeet Aratinga aurea Photographed Recorded
Yellow-chevroned Parakeet Brotogeris chiriri Photographed Recorded
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani Recorded
Guira Cuckoo Guira guira Photographed Recorded
Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia
Burrowing Owl Athene cunicularia Photographed
Great Dusky Swift Cypseloides senex Photographed
White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris
Gray-rumped Swift Chaetura cinereiventris
Planalto Hermit Phaethornis pretrei
Swallow-tailed Hummingbird Eupetomena macrourus
White-vented Violet-ear Colibri serrirostris Photographed
Glittering-bellied Emerald Chlorostilbon aureoventris
Ringed Kingfisher Ceryle torquatus
Amazon Kingfisher Chloroceryle amazona
Green Kingfisher Chloroceryle americana
Rufous-tailed Jacamar Galbula ruficauda
White-eared Puffbird Nystalus chacuru Recorded
Toco Toucan Ramphastos toco Photographed Recorded
White Woodpecker Melanerpes candidus
Green-barred Woodpecker Colaptes melanochloros
Campo Flicker Colaptes campestris Photographed Recorded
Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus Photographed
Sooty-fronted Spinetail Synallaxis frontalis Recorded
Common Thornbird Phacellodomus rufifrons Photographed
Firewood-gatherer Anumbius annumbi Photographed Recorded
Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper Lochmias nematura
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet Camptostoma obsoletum
Yellow-bellied Elaenia Elaenia flavogaster
White-crested Elaenia Elaenia albiceps Possibly seen Photographed?
Olivaceous Elaenia Elaenia mesoleuca
Lesser Elaenia Elaenia chiriquensis Possibly seen Photographed?
Sooty Tyrannulet Serpophaga nigricans
Sepia-capped Flycatcher Leptopogon amaurocephalus
Yellow-olive Flycatcher Tolmomyias sulphurescens Recorded
White-throated Spadebill Platyrinchus mystaceus Recorded
Cliff Flycatcher Hirundinea ferruginea
Gray Monjita Xolmis cinerea
White-rumped Monjita Xolmis velata
Crested Black-Tyrant Knipolegus lophotes Photographed Recorded
Masked Water-Tyrant Fluvicola nengeta
Yellow-browed Tyrant Satrapa icterophrys Photographed
Long-tailed Tyrant Colonia colonus
Cattle Tyrant Machetornis rixosus Photographed
Short-crested Flycatcher Myiarchus ferox Possibly seen
Brown-crested Flycatcher Myiarchus tyrannulus Possibly seen
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus Photographed
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua Heard only
Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis Photographed
Variegated Flycatcher Empidonomus varius
White-throated Kingbird Tyrannus albogularis Photographed
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Fork-tailed Flycatcher Tyrannus savana
Gray-breasted Martin Progne chalybea
White-rumped Swallow Tachycineta leucorrhoa
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Tawny-headed Swallow Alopochelidon fucata Photographed
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis Photographed
House Wren Troglodytes aedon Recorded
Chalk-browed Mockingbird Mimus saturninus Recorded
Rufous-bellied Thrush Turdus rufiventris
Pale-breasted Thrush Turdus leucomelas Recorded
Creamy-bellied Thrush Turdus amaurochalinus
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola
Cinnamon Tanager Schistochlamys ruficapillus
Magpie Tanager Cissopis leveriana
Rufous-headed Tanager Hemithraupis ruficapilla Endemic Photographed
Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca Photographed Recorded
Burnished-buff Tanager Tangara cayana
Swallow-Tanager Tersina viridis
Pileated Finch Coryphospingus pileatus Recorded
Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina Recorded
Lined Seedeater Sporophila lineola Photographed
Yellow-bellied Seedeater Sporophila nigricollis Recorded
Double-collared Seedeater Sporophila caerulescens
Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola Photographed Recorded
Stripe-tailed Yellow-Finch Sicalis citrina Photographed Recorded
Grassland Sparrow Ammodramus humeralis Photographed Recorded
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Green-winged Saltator Saltator similis
Black-throated Saltator Saltator atricollis Photographed
Bay-winged Cowbird Molothrus badius Photographed
Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis
Crested Oropendola Psarocolius decumanus Recorded
Chopi Blackbird Gnorimopsar chopi Photographed Recorded
Hooded Siskin Carduelis magellanica
House Sparrow Passer domesticus Introduced species Photographed


12. Pirapora, Minas Gerais       29th November, 2006

   Near Pirapora, there is a reliable site for the critically endangered endemic Minas Gerais Tyrannulet. Gontijo buses leave Belo Horizonte daily at 7:30, 13:30, 15:15 and midnight, take about 6 hours and cost R55. Buses return from Pirapora at 6:00, 13:30, 15:30, and midnight. I left Belo Horizonte at midnight arrived in the morning, birded for the day and left in the afternoon. There are however several options for hotels, restaurants and also internet. From the number of water birds flying around in the morning, there must be some decent wetlands around the town that maybe worth exploring. Forbe's Blackbird has also been seen recently although I couldn't find any specific information. A morning should sufficient to find the species. It only took me 5 minutes following the details on Arthur Grosset's wonderful homepage http://www.arthurgrosset.com/
   To get to the site, leave town and head for Varzea de Palma and Belo Horizonte. After a couple of roundabouts, the highway officially starts and is signed every km. Just after the 11km marker (which is facing the other way) coming from Pirapora turn left onto a good dirt track. Continue along here for another 5km until you get to a small concrete bridge over a stream. Look high up in the tall trees here. On the left side, in the nearest large tree to the stream the birds had a nest about 12-13m up in the tree in the fork of a branch. They appeared to be feeding chicks here and were being kept very busy.
   I walked from Pirapora (about 18km, not recommended) but much easier would be to hire a moto-taxi to the turn off and walk the last 5km. You could even go all the way but the stretch along from the main road has good birding and I saw Aplomado Falcon, Curl-crested Jay and Narrow-billed Woodcreeper. Many trucks pass along this road to pick up sand further along. A truck picked me up and took me all the way back to Pirapora.
I saw 67 species including 1 lifer

Small-billed Tinamou Crypturellus parvirostris Possibly seen
Great Egret Ardea alba
Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax
White-faced Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna viduata
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Rufous-thighed Kite Harpagus diodon Possibly seen
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris
Crested Caracara Caracara cheriway
Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima
Aplomado Falcon Falco femoralis Photographed Recorded
Red-legged Seriema Cariama cristata Heard only
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Introduced species
Picazuro Pigeon Patagioenas picazuro
Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti
Picui Ground-Dove Columbina picui
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi Heard only
White-eyed Parakeet Aratinga leucophthalmus
Peach-fronted Parakeet Aratinga aurea
Blue-winged Parrotlet Forpus xanthopterygius Heard only
Yellow-chevroned Parakeet Brotogeris chiriri
Orange-winged Parrot Amazona amazonica Possibly seen
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
Guira Cuckoo Guira guira
Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia Heard only
Fork-tailed Palm-Swift Tachornis squamata
Swallow-tailed Hummingbird Eupetomena macrourus
White-tailed Goldenthroat Polytmus guainumbi Possibly seen
White-eared Puffbird Nystalus chacuru Heard only
Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus
Chotoy Spinetail Schoeniophylax phryganophila
Common Thornbird Phacellodomus rufifrons
Narrow-billed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes angustirostris Recorded
Sooretama Slaty-Antshrike Thamnophilus ambiguus Endemic Possibly heard
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet Camptostoma obsoletum
Mouse-colored Tyrannulet Phaeomyias murina
Minas Gerais Tyrannulet Phylloscartes roquettei Endemic Critically endangered Photographed Recorded
Suiriri Flycatcher Suiriri suiriri Possibly seen
Yellow-breasted Flycatcher Tolmomyias flaviventris
Gray Monjita Xolmis cinerea
Cattle Tyrant Machetornis rixosus
Dusky-capped Flycatcher Myiarchus tuberculifer Photographed
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua
Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculatus
Crowned Slaty Flycatcher Griseotyrannus aurantioatrocristatus
White-throated Kingbird Tyrannus albogularis
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Fork-tailed Flycatcher Tyrannus savana
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Pale-breasted Thrush Turdus leucomelas
Curl-crested Jay Cyanocorax cristatellus Recorded
Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild Introduced species
Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis Heard only
Golden-crowned Warbler Basileuterus culicivorus
Hooded Tanager Nemosia pileata
Hepatic Tanager Piranga flava Possibly seen
Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca
Pileated Finch Coryphospingus pileatus
Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis
Crested Oropendola Psarocolius decumanus Recorded
Chopi Blackbird Gnorimopsar chopi
House Sparrow Passer domesticus Introduced species


13. Araial do Cabo, Rio de Janeiro       1st December, 2006

   Araial do Cabo is a holiday resort just 3 hours away from Rio de Janeiro from where buses leave the main terminal every 2 hours. In between Praia Seca and Araial do Cabo, there is some restinga forest remnants that are the only place where the critically endangered Restinga Antwren is found. Araial do Cabo makes a good base and as it is a popular tourist town has all the amenities. I stayed at the Youth Hostel which was a little expensive at R37-43 but very nice. The habitat is in a supposed protected area which is actually closer to Praia Seca (5-10km) where there is also a few places to stay. Buses or minibuses leave from near the rodoviaria in Araial do Cabo for Figueira averey half an hour to an hour, and take about 25 minutes. Buses also leave from Cabo Frio so you could stay there instead. Buses pass through the small town of Figueira to the other side. The last stop is where the bus pulls in right and circles round a tree. This is convenient as this is very close to where Restinga Antwren can be found.
   From the stop, cross the road and follow the track towards the coast on the other side. After a short distance there is a big lake on the left. Look out for White-cheeked Pintail. After this, the track passes between patches of more mature habitat. Look for places with a continuous, shady understory. The birds seem to vocalize much of the time and are not difficult to locate. Be mindful of the birds status before using playback. I found the best thing to do to see them well was to actually go into the undergrowth and let them hop around you. They are fairly curious. Despite the supposed protection of the area, the available habitat appears to be under constant threat from coastal development. The sand there is pure white and walking a bit further on, you can sit overlooking the sea and watch Brown Boobys catch fish.
I saw 35 species including 1 lifer

Brown Booby Sula leucogaster
Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus
Magnificent Frigatebird Fregata magnificens
Great Egret Ardea alba
Snowy Egret Egretta thula
White-cheeked Pintail Anas bahamensis Photographed
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris Heard only
Crested Caracara Caracara cheriway Photographed Recorded
Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima Photographed
Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
Black-necked Stilt Himantopus mexicanus
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis
Lesser Yellowlegs Tringa flavipes
Kelp Gull Larus dominicanus
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Introduced species
Picazuro Pigeon Patagioenas picazuro
Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
Guira Cuckoo Guira guira
Restinga Antwren Formicivora littoralis Endemic Critically ndangered Photographed Recorded
Yellow-bellied Elaenia Elaenia flavogaster Heard only
Masked Water-Tyrant Fluvicola nengeta
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
White-rumped Swallow Tachycineta leucorrhoa
House Wren Troglodytes aedon Heard only
Chalk-browed Mockingbird Mimus saturninus
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola
Brazilian Tanager Ramphocelus bresilius Endemic
Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
House Sparrow Passer domesticus Introduced species


14. Serra dos Orgaos NP, Rio de Janeiro       3rd-5th December, 2006

   This fantastic national park holds more endemic species of birds than any other in Brazil. It is best accessed from Teresopolis which is easily reached from Rio by hourly buses taking just an hour and a half. The cheapest place to stay is in the centre of the city but there are many other more expensive places closer to the entrance to the park. The posada in the park seems to be closed for reconstruction but it is still possible to camp for a small fee. From the centre you can take a local bus towards ‘Alto’ (when it turns off the main road, get off and keep walking straight to the entrance) or ‘Soberba’ which will drop you by the entrance. The ticket office to the park opens at 8am and after that you can buy your ticket (3R) and enter.
   After the entrance, I saw Maroon-bellied Parakeets, Brown & Azure-shouldered Tanagers, Red-crowned Spinetail and Yellow-legged Thrush. The first short trail on the left is the Primavera trail where I saw Grey-hooded Flycatcher and Unicolored Finch. Further up the Mozart trail had Hooded Berryeater and at the top, the Bridge trail (a an excellent, raised metal platform through the forest) had, Grey-headed Attila, Blue Manakin and Surucua Trogon. The road ends at a car park and a dam forms a small lake at about 1,100m altitude. To the left, the Pedro da Sino trail starts but you need to specify that you will go here when you buy you ticket. You have to sign a disclaimer and pay a bit extra (8R), but it’s worth it. There is a big tree fall near the start which you have to walk around, then you go through a nice area of bamboo and over a couple of small bridges. On this lower section, I saw Spot-winged Wood-Quail, White-rimmed Warbler, Planalto Slaty-Antshrike, Bare-throated Bellbird (heard only), Blue-billed Black-Tyrant, Sharpbill and Black-and-gold Cotinga. Where the trail comes out into a more open area with a nice view over the trees I saw a pair of Swallow-tailed Cotinga fly into the top branches of a tree and sit there motionlessly. Make sure you scan all the top branches. The trail continues up to a campsite at about 1600m (Mouse-colored Tapaculo). This section of the trail had Bay-chested Warbling Finch, Rufous-backed Antvireo, Serro do Mar Tyrannulet, Diademed Tanager, Rufous-tailed Antbird and Plumbeus Pigeon. Camping here for a night might be a good idea to be able to bird higher elevations nice and early.
   Apart from the Teresopolis entrance, there is another entrance lower down back towards Rio called ‘Sub-sede’. Another place is called Garrafao which is famous for being the place where the critically endangered Kinglet Calyptura was rediscovered and never seen again. Coming from Teresopolis back towards Rio, there is a signed left turning at km 94 just before a gas station. Buses from the terminal at Teresopolis to ‘Guapi’ pass the turning and can drop you off. Walk along the small road past a few small patches of forest where I saw Spot-breasted Antvireo, Salvadori’s Antwren and Green-headed Tanager. A fork in the road is where the calyptura was seen. Of course I didn’t see it. I saw Plain and Maroon-bellied Parakeets here and taking the right fork further down at a nice house Blond-crested Woodpecker and Violet-crowned Woodnymph. The road winds steeply down and crosses a small stream with Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper. Further down still there is a trampled fence after some buildings on the left and then the track enters nice forest. It comes out lower down at an IBAMA sign saying no entry so I’m not sure whether you it is allowed to bird there or not. There is no sign entering from above. If you carry on walking down, the road meets another which goes all the way down to Guapi.
I saw 102 species including 22 lifers

Tataupa Tinamou Crypturellus tataupa Possibly heard
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris Heard only
Spot-winged Wood-Quail Odontophorus capueira
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Introduced species
Plumbeous Pigeon Patagioenas plumbea Recorded
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi
Gray-fronted Dove Leptotila rufaxilla Possibly heard
Blue-winged Macaw Primolius maracana Vulnerable
White-eyed Parakeet Aratinga leucophthalmus
Maroon-bellied Parakeet Pyrrhura frontalis Photographed Recorded
Plain Parakeet Brotogeris tirica Endemic Photographed Recorded
Yellow-chevroned Parakeet Brotogeris chiriri
Scaly-headed Parrot Pionus maximiliani Recorded
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana
Sooty Swift Cypseloides fumigatus Possibly seen
Great Dusky Swift Cypseloides senex
White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris
Gray-rumped Swift Chaetura cinereiventris Possibly seen
Scale-throated Hermit Phaethornis eurynome Recorded
Sombre Hummingbird Campylopterus cirrochloris Endemic Possibly seen
Swallow-tailed Hummingbird Eupetomena macrourus
Glittering-bellied Emerald Chlorostilbon aureoventris
Violet-capped Woodnymph Thalurania glaucopis Photographed
White-throated Hummingbird Leucochloris albicollis
Sapphire-spangled Emerald Polyerata lactea
Brazilian Ruby Clytolaema rubricauda Endemic
Surucua Trogon Trogon surrucura Photographed Recorded
White-barred Piculet Picumnus cirratus
Little Woodpecker Veniliornis passerinus Recorded
Blond-crested Woodpecker Celeus flavescens Photographed Recorded
Rufous-capped Spinetail Synallaxis ruficapilla Recorded
Streaked Xenops Xenops rutilans
Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper Lochmias nematura Photographed Recorded
Olivaceous Woodcreeper Sittasomus griseicapillus
Wedge-billed Woodcreeper Glyphorynchus spirurus
White-throated Woodcreeper Xiphocolaptes albicollis
Scaled Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes squamatus
Planalto Slaty-Antshrike Thamnophilus pelzelni Endemic
Spot-breasted Antvireo Dysithamnus stictothorax Endemic Near-threatened Photographed
Plain Antvireo Dysithamnus mentalis
Rufous-backed Antvireo Dysithamnus xanthopterus Endemic Recorded
Salvadori's Antwren Myrmotherula minor Endemic Vulnerable Photographed Recorded?
Rufous-tailed Antbird Drymophila genei Endemic Near-threatened Photographed Recorded
Brazilian Antthrush Chamaeza ruficauda Endemic Recorded
Variegated Antpitta Grallaria varia Heard only
Mouse-colored Tapaculo Scytalopus speluncae Recorded
Sharpbill Oxyruncus cristatus
Swallow-tailed Cotinga Phibalura flavirostris Near-threatened Photographed
Black-and-gold Cotinga Tijuca atra Endemic Near-threatened Photographed Recorded
Hooded Berryeater Carpornis cucullatus Endemic Near-threatened Photographed Recorded
Bare-throated Bellbird Procnias nudicollis Near-threatened Heard only Recorded
White-bearded Manakin Manacus manacus Recorded
Blue Manakin Chiroxiphia caudata Photographed Recorded
Gray-hooded Flycatcher Mionectes rufiventris Recorded
Sepia-capped Flycatcher Leptopogon amaurocephalus
Serra do Mar Tyrannulet Phylloscartes difficilis Endemic Near-threatened Photographed Recorded
Mottle-cheeked Tyrannulet Phylloscartes ventralis Recorded
Yellow-olive Flycatcher Tolmomyias sulphurescens
Euler's Flycatcher Lathrotriccus euleri Possibly seen Recorded?
Blue-billed Black-Tyrant Knipolegus cyanirostris
Gray-hooded Attila Attila rufus Endemic Photographed Recorded
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua Heard only
Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis Recorded
Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculatus Photographed
Variegated Flycatcher Empidonomus varius
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Chestnut-crowned Becard Pachyramphus castaneus Possibly seen
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Yellow-legged Thrush Platycichla flavipes
Rufous-bellied Thrush Turdus rufiventris Recorded
Pale-breasted Thrush Turdus leucomelas
Rufous-crowned Greenlet Hylophilus poicilotis Photographed Recorded
Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis Heard only Recorded
Golden-crowned Warbler Basileuterus culicivorus Photographed Recorded
White-rimmed Warbler Basileuterus leucoblepharus Photographed Recorded
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola
Brown Tanager Orchesticus abeillei Endemic Near-threatened
Yellow-backed Tanager Hemithraupis flavicollis
Flame-crested Tanager Tachyphonus cristatus
White-lined Tanager Tachyphonus rufus Recorded
Black-goggled Tanager Trichothraupis melanops Recorded
Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca
Azure-shouldered Tanager Thraupis cyanoptera Endemic Near-threatened Photographed
Golden-chevroned Tanager Thraupis ornata Endemic Photographed
Diademed Tanager Stephanophorus diadematus Recorded
Fawn-breasted Tanager Pipraeidea melanonota
Violaceous Euphonia Euphonia violacea
Green-headed Tanager Tangara seledon
Brassy-breasted Tanager Tangara desmaresti Endemic Photographed Recorded
Bay-chested Warbling-Finch Poospiza thoracica Endemic Photographed Recorded
Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina Possibly heard
Uniform Finch Haplospiza unicolor Photographed Recorded
Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola
Green-winged Saltator Saltator similis
Yellow-green Grosbeak Caryothraustes canadensis Heard only
Red-rumped Cacique Cacicus haemorrhous Photographed Recorded
House Sparrow Passer domesticus Introduced species


15. Angra dos Reis area, Rio de Janeiro       6th-7th December, 2006

   The endangered endemic Black-hooded Antwren has been found at a few sites near Angra dos Reis. I check 2 sites: Ariro and Pereque, finding it only at the latter where is was easy. Angra dos Reis is a large town and makes a good base to explore. Costa Verde buses leave the terminal in Rio every hour, cost 31R and take about 2 and a half hours. In Angra, I stayed at Hotel Jaques in the centre for just 20R. Senor do Bonfim buses leave for Pereque on the waterfront in the centre about every half hour. They take about an hour and a half to Pereque and just 25 minutes to Ariro. The flat fare is 1.90R. The bus stop for Ariro is just after the km493 marker and there is some forest on the left side of the road although it is a bit difficult to get into. There is a right turn into Ariro which seems to be just a few houses then a bit further on, a left turn at the river which leads onto some nice forest edge. Around here I saw Yellow Tyrannulet, Lemon-chested Greenlet, Green-headed Tanager and Blue Dacnis. Back on the main road, there are some mangroves you can access at a bridge about 1km before Ariro and a couple of kms after Ariro there is a left turn to some condominiums where I saw Black Jacobin. I didn’t find Black-hodded Antwren despite trying playback in the whole area.
   It was much easier to find the species at Pereque. Take the same bus as to Ariro but stay on until the last stop. Pereque is after the big nuclear power station. The bus enters the town and goes all the way through, turns right and stops across from the football pitch described on www.arthurgrosset.com . Here turn left and head out of town. The first part of this road had Red-necked Tanager, Ruby-crowned Tanager and Blue Ground-Dove. After the last house, the road curves to the right and the overhead wire crosses from the left side of the road to the right and back again. A short distance along here, about 50m before the wire crosses to the right again, I saw Black-hooded Antwren in the roadside secondary forest. They seem very vocal calling much of the time and they are fairly responsive to playback, especially the first time. They seem to like the shady, tangly undergrowth. In this area I also saw Swallow-tailed and Rufous-thighed Kite.
I saw 63 species including 3 lifers

Magnificent Frigatebird Fregata magnificens
Great Egret Ardea alba
Snowy Egret Egretta thula
Striated Heron Butorides striata
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus Photographed Recorded
Swallow-tailed Kite Elanoides forficatus
Rufous-thighed Kite Harpagus diodon Photographed
Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima Recorded
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Introduced species
Picazuro Pigeon Patagioenas picazuro
Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti
Blue Ground-Dove Claravis pretiosa Heard only Recorded
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi Heard only
Gray-fronted Dove Leptotila rufaxilla Possibly heard
Blue-winged Parrotlet Forpus xanthopterygius
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia Heard only
Swallow-tailed Hummingbird Eupetomena macrourus
Black Jacobin Florisuga fuscus
Black-throated Mango Anthracothorax nigricollis
Glittering-bellied Emerald Chlorostilbon aureoventris
Ringed Kingfisher Ceryle torquatus
Yellow-chinned Spinetail Certhiaxis cinnamomea
Olivaceous Woodcreeper Sittasomus griseicapillus
Chestnut-backed Antshrike Thamnophilus palliatus Heard only
Black-hooded Antwren Formicivora erythronotos Endemic Endangered Photographed Recorded
White-breasted Tapaculo Scytalopus indigoticus Endemic Near-threatened Heard only
White-bearded Manakin Manacus manacus
Yellow Tyrannulet Capsiempis flaveola
Yellow-bellied Elaenia Elaenia flavogaster Heard only
Masked Water-Tyrant Fluvicola nengeta
Long-tailed Tyrant Colonia colonus
Cattle Tyrant Machetornis rixosus
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua
Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Brown-chested Martin Progne tapera
Gray-breasted Martin Progne chalybea
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Chalk-browed Mockingbird Mimus saturninus
Rufous-bellied Thrush Turdus rufiventris
Lemon-chested Greenlet Hylophilus thoracicus
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola
Ruby-crowned Tanager Tachyphonus coronatus
White-lined Tanager Tachyphonus rufus Possibly seen
Brazilian Tanager Ramphocelus bresilius Endemic Recorded
Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca
Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum
Green-headed Tanager Tangara seledon
Red-necked Tanager Tangara cyanocephala Photographed
Blue Dacnis Dacnis cayana
Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina Heard only
Double-collared Seedeater Sporophila caerulescens
Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Buff-throated Saltator Saltator maximus
Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis
House Sparrow Passer domesticus Introduced species


16. Itatiaia NP, Rio de Janeiro       8th-9th December, 2006

   Itatiaia is between Rio de Janeiro and Sao Paolo. Many buses pass and may agree to drop you here but may charge you the full fare between these cities. Cidade do Aco has direct buses from the terminal in Rio, but only a few. One leaves about 2pm and another at 18:05. It takes about 3 and a half hours and costs R21. A return bus leaves across from the Rodoviaria in Itatiaia at 15:00. The best place to stay would be at one of the expensive hotels up in the park, like Ype or Simon. Itatiaia has a cheap hotel though and also a bus up into the park so you can visit for the day very easily. When you arrive at the 'rodoviaria' in Itatiaia, cross over the footbridge (passarella), turn right and walk west along the edge of the highway. After about 500m there are a couple of small restaurants, the second which also has some rooms. It's called Pousada Isa but the sign only says 'Pousada'. It is R25 for a basic (not so nice) single room including breakfast which you can eat in the restaurant from about 6am onwards. The bus up to the park leaves at 7am from near the footbridge. Go past this and you will see a bus stop in front of a gas station. This is the stop for the bus back to Rio but not to the park. Walk on about 20m and wait at the bus stop on the road coming out. It takes about 30 minutes to get up to the park and costs just R1.90. This is the bus that the workers in the park and various hotels and shops take up every morning. Get off the front of the bus at the barrier, buy you ticket into the park and get back on.
   There are several places you could get off the bus. First you pass the IBAMA buildings across from which I saw Red-breasted Toucan and Dusky-legged Guans. The visitors centre is a further up and from here there is a trail going to Lago Azul, which I wasn't able to locate. The forest around here has some nice birding though and I saw Euler’s Flycatcher. Above this I saw possible Brown-backed Parrotlets flying over in the late morning. One place further up worth spending a day birding is the Tres Picos trail which starts at Hotel Simon. Stay on the bus until the last stop and follow the beginning of the trail across from this huge hotel. It takes a few hours to get to the top but there is a great view. There are also some nice cascades about half way up. Birds seen along this trail included Black Hawk-Eagle, White-throated Hummingbird, Buff-browed & Black-capped Foliage-gleaners, Rufous-tailed Attila, Rufous-tailed Antbird, Fawn-breasted Tanager and Thick-billed Saltator.
   I also planned to bird the jeep trail described in Wheatley's guide but this no longer seems open to the public. There is a security guard there to stop people going up. Ask at the IBAMA office if you want to find out about going up here. The guard will not let you past. To reach the beginning of this trail, get off the bus and carry straight on instead of turning up the hill to Hotel Simon. This low road passes the entrance to Hotel Ype and ends at a car park (Magpie Tnager) from where you can walk up trails to some waterfalls. It is worth walking all the way to the car park, or back down as it has excellent birding. Along here I saw Black Jacobin, Ferruginous Antbird, Black-billed Scythebill, Yellow-browed Woodpecker, Spot-breasted Antvireo, White-browed Foliage-gleamer and Scaled Woodcreeper. The trail to the waterfall before the bridge over the river had Olive-green and Chestnut-headed Tanager, Sharp-billed Treehunter and Blue-billed Black-Tyrant.
I saw 116 species including 9 lifers

Brown Tinamou Crypturellus obsoletus Heard only
Tataupa Tinamou Crypturellus tataupa Possibly heard
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris
Black Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus tyrannus
Dusky-legged Guan Penelope obscura Photographed Recorded
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Introduced species
Picazuro Pigeon Patagioenas picazuro
Plumbeous Pigeon Patagioenas plumbea Recorded
Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi Heard only
Gray-fronted Dove Leptotila rufaxilla Possibly seen
White-eyed Parakeet Aratinga leucophthalmus
Maroon-bellied Parakeet Pyrrhura frontalis Recorded
Blue-winged Parrotlet Forpus xanthopterygius
Yellow-chevroned Parakeet Brotogeris chiriri Possibly seen
Brown-backed Parrotlet Touit melanonota Endemic Endangered Possibly seen Recorded
Scaly-headed Parrot Pionus maximiliani Photographed Recorded?
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana Heard only
Guira Cuckoo Guira guira
Ashy-tailed Swift Chaetura andrei Recorded
Planalto Hermit Phaethornis pretrei Possibly seen
Swallow-tailed Hummingbird Eupetomena macrourus
Black Jacobin Florisuga fuscus
Glittering-bellied Emerald Chlorostilbon aureoventris Recorded
Violet-capped Woodnymph Thalurania glaucopis
White-throated Hummingbird Leucochloris albicollis
Surucua Trogon Trogon surrucura Photographed
Red-breasted Toucan Ramphastos dicolorus Photographed Recorded
White-barred Piculet Picumnus cirratus
Yellow-browed Woodpecker Piculus aurulentus Near-threatened
Rufous-capped Spinetail Synallaxis ruficapilla Recorded
Pallid Spinetail Cranioleuca pallida Endemic
Sharp-billed Treehunter Heliobletus contaminatus Photographed Recorded
White-browed Foliage-gleaner Anabacerthia amaurotis Near-threatened
Buff-browed Foliage-gleaner Syndactyla rufosuperciliata Recorded
Pale-browed Treehunter Cichlocolaptes leucophrus Endemic
Black-capped Foliage-gleaner Philydor atricapillus Recorded
White-collared Foliage-gleaner Anabazenops fuscus Endemic Photographed
Thrush-like Woodcreeper Dendrocincla turdina
Olivaceous Woodcreeper Sittasomus griseicapillus Recorded
Lesser Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus fuscus
Scaled Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes squamatus Photographed
Black-billed Scythebill Campylorhamphus falcularius Photographed
Spot-backed Antshrike Hypoedaleus guttatus Possibly seen
Spot-breasted Antvireo Dysithamnus stictothorax Endemic Near-threatened Recorded
Plain Antvireo Dysithamnus mentalis
Ferruginous Antbird Drymophila ferruginea Endemic Recorded
Rufous-tailed Antbird Drymophila genei Endemic Near-threatened Photographed Recorded
Streak-capped Antwren Terenura maculata
White-shouldered Fire-eye Pyriglena leucoptera Recorded
Brazilian Antthrush Chamaeza ruficauda Endemic Heard only
Such's Antthrush Chamaeza meruloides Endemic Heard only Recorded
Black-and-gold Cotinga Tijuca atra Endemic Near-threatened Heard only Recorded
Blue Manakin Chiroxiphia caudata Recorded
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet Camptostoma obsoletum
Sepia-capped Flycatcher Leptopogon amaurocephalus
Yellow-olive Flycatcher Tolmomyias sulphurescens Recorded
Gray-crowned Flycatcher Tolmomyias poliocephalus Recorded
White-throated Spadebill Platyrinchus mystaceus Recorded
Euler's Flycatcher Lathrotriccus euleri Recorded
Blue-billed Black-Tyrant Knipolegus cyanirostris
Masked Water-Tyrant Fluvicola nengeta
Rufous-tailed Attila Attila phoenicurus Recorded
Gray-hooded Attila Attila rufus Endemic Heard only Recorded
Sirystes Sirystes sibilator
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua Heard only
Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculatus
Variegated Flycatcher Empidonomus varius
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Fork-tailed Flycatcher Tyrannus savana
Chestnut-crowned Becard Pachyramphus castaneus
Crested Becard Pachyramphus validus
Gray-breasted Martin Progne chalybea
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Chalk-browed Mockingbird Mimus saturninus
Rufous-bellied Thrush Turdus rufiventris
Pale-breasted Thrush Turdus leucomelas Recorded
Curl-crested Jay Cyanocorax cristatellus
Rufous-crowned Greenlet Hylophilus poicilotis
Golden-crowned Warbler Basileuterus culicivorus
White-rimmed Warbler Basileuterus leucoblepharus Heard only
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola
Brown Tanager Orchesticus abeillei Endemic Near-threatened Recorded
Magpie Tanager Cissopis leveriana
Chestnut-headed Tanager Pyrrhocoma ruficeps
Rufous-headed Tanager Hemithraupis ruficapilla Endemic
Olive-green Tanager Orthogonys chloricterus Endemic
Ruby-crowned Tanager Tachyphonus coronatus
Black-goggled Tanager Trichothraupis melanops
Red-crowned Ant-Tanager Habia rubica Recorded
Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca
Golden-chevroned Tanager Thraupis ornata Endemic Recorded
Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum
Diademed Tanager Stephanophorus diadematus Photographed
Fawn-breasted Tanager Pipraeidea melanonota
Green-headed Tanager Tangara seledon
Brassy-breasted Tanager Tangara desmaresti Endemic
Gilt-edged Tanager Tangara cyanoventris Endemic
Swallow-Tanager Tersina viridis Photographed
Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina
Temminck's Seedeater Sporophila falcirostris Endemic Vulnerable Heard only Recorded
Double-collared Seedeater Sporophila caerulescens
White-bellied Seedeater Sporophila leucoptera
Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Thick-billed Saltator Saltator maxillosus Recorded
Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis
Red-rumped Cacique Cacicus haemorrhous Recorded
House Sparrow Passer domesticus Introduced species


17. Bonito & Miranda, Mato Grosso do Sul       11th-13th December, 2006

   I visited these sites in Mato Grosso do Sul state in search of the Hyacinth Macaw. There are supposedly a few near the town of Bonito but I don't think this is such a good place to look for them. If you want to have a go, I was told there are a few at Rio de Peixe which is over 30km away. It can be visited on a tour organized through the Youth Hostel or other agencies. The price I was quoted was 120R for a taxi and 67R per person for a guided tour. There are apparently other things to see like waterfalls. The owner puts out food which attracts a few macaw species.
   I did a bit of birding near town and saw Undulated Tinamou, Red-legged Seriema, Burrowing Owl, Aplomado Falcon, Purplish Jay, Black-tailed Tityra & Chestnut-eared Aracari. The Youth Hostel is very nice and only 25R per person. The Hotel Muito Bonito also sounds nice at 40R per person. Bonito is reached by Cruceiro do Sul bus from Campo Grande taking 5 hours.
   After failing to see Hyacinth Macaw in Bonito, I moved to Miranda which I also reached in a Cruceiro do Sul bus leaving at 6am, taking 3 hours and costing 20R. In Miranda, there are a number of hotels just along from the office towards the Campo Grande-Corumba road. The cheapest was Hotel Diogo which was just 20R with breakfast. There is a nice lodge just 36km from Mrianda where you can see Hyacinth Macaws called Reserva Ecologica Caiman (67 3242 1450). To get there, go North at the roundabout on the main road. This is right coming from Campo Grande, left from Corumba and straight coming from Miranda. This road goes onto another town, but after a few hundred metres, turn left onto a gravel road at the signs for 'Caiman'. It is 36km away but possible to hitch some of the way. You need to contact them beforehand to arrange your accompaniment. There were no researchers there when I called so I couldn't get in. I saw the macaws though, along this road within walking distance of the town.
   Just after the turn there is a small stream on the left where I saw Grey-necked Wood-Rail and Narrow-billed Woodcreeper. There are a few houses on the first stretch (look out for Dark-billed Cuckoo in the gardens) and after that open pasture land with scattered trees. I saw Red-and-green Macaws here too. After a couple of kms, there is a sign on the right for 'Estancia Paraiso' and also a turn-off on the left. Ignore these and carry straight on. Further on is a left bend with some forest on the right which was quite birdy. Further still the road crosses a small stream where there is a small marsh (listen for crakes) then another house on the left (Great Rufous Woodcreeper in the garden). After this, the road goes over 2 small wooden bridges (splitting and meeting up again at the second). After this there is an obvious sign on the left which reads 'Chacara, Jesus ea Vida', then a open field on the left, then the place where I saw the Hyacinth Macaws. About 5-6km from Miranda (estimated). It looks like good habitat with open woodland with many palms. I saw 7-9 Hyacinth Macaws here between 9:30 and 10:30. They seem quite quiet in the late morning, sitting quietly on high branches and are probably more active earlier on. Further on, there is good habitat and I saw Greater Rhea with chicks. Close to 'Caiman' there are more mammals. I saw an armadillo and tapir tracks.
I saw 133 species including 1 lifer

Greater Rhea Rhea americana Near-threatened
Undulated Tinamou Crypturellus undulatus Recorded
Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus
Whistling Heron Syrigma sibilatrix
Capped Heron Pilherodius pileatus Photographed
Cocoi Heron Ardea cocoi Photographed
Great Egret Ardea alba
Snowy Egret Egretta thula
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Striated Heron Butorides striata
Rufescent Tiger-Heron Tigrisoma lineatum
Jabiru Jabiru mycteria
Buff-necked Ibis Theristicus caudatus
Bare-faced Ibis Phimosus infuscatus
White-faced Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna viduata
Black-bellied Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna autumnalis
Brazilian Teal Amazonetta brasiliensis Possibly seen
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura Photographed
Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes burrovianus
Plumbeous Kite Ictinia plumbea Photographed
Crane Hawk Geranospiza caerulescens
Savanna Hawk Buteogallus meridionalis
Harris's Hawk Parabuteo unicinctus
Black-collared Hawk Busarellus nigricollis
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris
Black-and-white Hawk-Eagle Spizastur melanoleucus Possibly seen before Campo grande
Crested Caracara Caracara cheriway
American Kestrel Falco sparverius
Aplomado Falcon Falco femoralis
Chaco Chachalaca Ortalis canicollis Recorded
Limpkin Aramus guarauna
Gray-necked Wood-Rail Aramides cajanea
Red-legged Seriema Cariama cristata Photographed Recorded
Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana
Black-necked Stilt Himantopus mexicanus
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis
Solitary Sandpiper Tringa solitaria
Pectoral Sandpiper Calidris melanotos Possibly seen
Large-billed Tern Phaetusa simplex
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Introduced species
Picazuro Pigeon Patagioenas picazuro
Pale-vented Pigeon Patagioenas cayennensis
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata Possibly seen
Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti Recorded
Picui Ground-Dove Columbina picui
Scaled Dove Columbina squammata
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi Recorded
Hyacinth Macaw Anodorhynchus hyacinthinus Endangered Photographed Recorded
Red-and-green Macaw Ara chloroptera Recorded
Red-bellied Macaw Orthopsittaca manilata Possibly seen Recorded?
White-eyed Parakeet Aratinga leucophthalmus Recorded
Dusky-headed Parakeet Aratinga weddellii Possibly seen
Peach-fronted Parakeet Aratinga aurea
Nanday Parakeet Nandayus nenday Photographed Recorded
Yellow-chevroned Parakeet Brotogeris chiriri Photographed Recorded
Scaly-headed Parrot Pionus maximiliani Photographed Recorded
Blue-fronted Parrot Amazona aestiva Photographed Recorded
Dark-billed Cuckoo Coccyzus melacoryphus Photographed
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani Photographed Recorded
Guira Cuckoo Guira guira Photographed Recorded
Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia Heard only
Burrowing Owl Athene cunicularia
Gilded Sapphire Hylocharis chrysura Recorded?
Surucua Trogon Trogon surrucura
Amazon Kingfisher Chloroceryle amazona
Spot-backed Puffbird Nystalus maculatus Photographed
Chestnut-eared Aracari Pteroglossus castanotis
Toco Toucan Ramphastos toco
White Woodpecker Melanerpes candidus
Checkered Woodpecker Picoides mixtus
Campo Flicker Colaptes campestris
Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus
Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus Photographed Recorded
Yellow-chinned Spinetail Certhiaxis cinnamomea
Common Thornbird Phacellodomus rufifrons Photographed Recorded
Greater Thornbird Phacellodomus ruber
Great Rufous Woodcreeper Xiphocolaptes major
Narrow-billed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes angustirostris
Great Antshrike Taraba major Recorded
Barred Antshrike Thamnophilus doliatus Recorded
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet Camptostoma obsoletum
Southern Scrub-Flycatcher Sublegatus modestus
White-rumped Monjita Xolmis velata
White Monjita Xolmis irupero
Streamer-tailed Tyrant Gubernetes yetapa
Cattle Tyrant Machetornis rixosus
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus Recorded
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua
Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculatus
Piratic Flycatcher Legatus leucophaius
Variegated Flycatcher Empidonomus varius
Crowned Slaty Flycatcher Griseotyrannus aurantioatrocristatus Photographed
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus Recorded
White-winged Becard Pachyramphus polychopterus Photographed
Black-tailed Tityra Tityra cayana Photographed
Black-crowned Tityra Tityra inquisitor
Brown-chested Martin Progne tapera Photographed Recorded
Gray-breasted Martin Progne chalybea
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis Photographed
Thrush-like Wren Campylorhynchus turdinus Recorded
House Wren Troglodytes aedon Recorded
Chalk-browed Mockingbird Mimus saturninus
Rufous-bellied Thrush Turdus rufiventris
Creamy-bellied Thrush Turdus amaurochalinus
Tropical Gnatcatcher Polioptila plumbea
Purplish Jay Cyanocorax cyanomelas Recorded
Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis
White-shouldered Tanager Tachyphonus luctuosus Recorded
Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca Photographed
Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum
Swallow-Tanager Tersina viridis
Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina
Rusty-collared Seedeater Sporophila collaris
Lined Seedeater Sporophila lineola Photographed
White-bellied Seedeater Sporophila leucoptera
Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola Recorded
Red-crested Cardinal Paroaria coronata
Yellow-billed Cardinal Paroaria capitata
Grassland Sparrow Ammodramus humeralis Recorded
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Grayish Saltator Saltator coerulescens Recorded
Unicolored Blackbird Agelasticus cyanopus
Bay-winged Cowbird Molothrus badius
Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis
Giant Cowbird Molothrus oryzivorus
Epaulet Oriole Icterus cayanensis Photographed
Solitary Cacique Cacicus solitarius
Crested Oropendola Psarocolius decumanus
Yellow-rumped Marshbird Pseudoleistes guirahuro
Chopi Blackbird Gnorimopsar chopi
Orange-backed Troupial Icterus croconotus Recorded
House Sparrow Passer domesticus Introduced species


18. Salto do Pirai, near Joinville, Santa Catarina       17th December, 2006

   This is one of the sites for the critically endangered Kaemfer’s Tody-Tyrant. Salto do Pirai is a large waterfall and the site is a few kms before it. It is fairly easy to reach cheaply. A bus from the Terminal Urbano in Joinville goes to Vila Nova, an area on the outskirts of town. From here you can take a Mototaxi cheaply. I mistakenly went to Cataratas do Pirai which is a water park. Don’t ask to go here. Instead ask to go to Pirai (e.g. the river or church) or even better ‘Salto do Pirai’. If the driver still doesn’t know, try ‘Recanto dos Cachoeira’. This is a park by the big waterfall but the site is a few kms before. Mototaxis are cheap and it only cost me 7R for the ride to Cataratas do Pirai.
   There are a couple of different ways, but if you go through the village of Pirai, you should go past a church and over a couple of rivers. These are popular bathing spots. After the first bridge, there is a sign at a right turn to ‘Parque Ecologico Caminos dos Aguas’. Don’t go right but instead go straight on towards ‘Recanto dos Cachoeira, 6km’. Go over the second bridge and then past an open area before getting to a T-junction where you turn right. Here you can see the waterfall in the distance. After this there are a couple of houses set right back from the road but look instead for houses on the left right next to the road. After the second house, there is a black wooden gate which is closed with just a piece of wire. On the left side of the gate is a kind of ornamental garden. Go through the gate and along for about 5 minutes before getting to the river. The river is only narrow, so you can just jump across. On the other side is a kind of open area with a few patches of trees raised up like islands. There is a boggy, grassy strip between these and the forest which Kaempfer’s apparently crosses several times a day. I didn’t see it but arrived a little late. Interesting species in this area were Chicli (Spix’s) Spinetail, Yellow-lored Tody-Flycatcher and White-shouldered Fire-eye. The following site maybe better for this species.
I saw 66 species including 0 lifers

Snowy Egret Egretta thula
Bare-faced Ibis Phimosus infuscatus Photographed
White-faced Ibis Plegadis chihi
White-faced Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna viduata Photographed
Brazilian Teal Amazonetta brasiliensis
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris Recorded
Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima Heard only
Chachalaca sp Ortalis Heard only Recorded
Gray-necked Wood-Rail Aramides cajanea
Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana Recorded
Black-necked Stilt Himantopus mexicanus
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis Photographed Recorded
South American Snipe Gallinago paraguaiae
Lesser Yellowlegs Tringa flavipes
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Introduced species
Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti
Plain Parakeet Brotogeris tirica Endemic Recorded
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
Guira Cuckoo Guira guira
Ashy-tailed Swift Chaetura andrei
Sapphire-spangled Emerald Polyerata lactea
Ringed Kingfisher Ceryle torquatus
Campo Flicker Colaptes campestris Recorded
Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus
Chicli Spinetail Synallaxis spixi Recorded
Yellow-chinned Spinetail Certhiaxis cinnamomea
White-shouldered Fire-eye Pyriglena leucoptera Recorded
White-breasted Tapaculo Scytalopus indigoticus Endemic Near-threatened Heard only Recorded
Blue Manakin Chiroxiphia caudata Heard only
Southern Scrub-Flycatcher Sublegatus modestus
Yellow-lored Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum poliocephalum Endemic Photographed Recorded
Yellow-olive Flycatcher Tolmomyias sulphurescens Recorded
Cattle Tyrant Machetornis rixosus
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua Heard only
Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculatus Recorded
Piratic Flycatcher Legatus leucophaius
Variegated Flycatcher Empidonomus varius
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Fork-tailed Flycatcher Tyrannus savana Photographed
Brown-chested Martin Progne tapera Photographed
Gray-breasted Martin Progne chalybea
White-rumped Swallow Tachycineta leucorrhoa
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
Yellowish Pipit Anthus lutescens Recorded
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Rufous-bellied Thrush Turdus rufiventris
Creamy-bellied Thrush Turdus amaurochalinus
Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild Introduced species Seen in Joinville Photographed
Red-eyed Vireo Vireo olivaceus
Rufous-crowned Greenlet Hylophilus poicilotis
Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis Heard only
Golden-crowned Warbler Basileuterus culicivorus Photographed
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola
Ruby-crowned Tanager Tachyphonus coronatus
Green-headed Tanager Tangara seledon
Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina
Rusty-collared Seedeater Sporophila collaris Possibly seen
Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola Photographed
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
White-browed Blackbird Sturnella superciliaris Photographed
Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis
House Sparrow Passer domesticus Introduced species


19. Reserva Volta Velha, near Itapoa, Santa Catarina       18th December, 2006

   This excellent private reserve is located just a few kms from Itapoa, a seaside resort in Santa Catarina state. I visited on a day trip from Joinville from where there is a direct bus, but it would be better to stay in Itapoa or even better in the reserve itself. The bus from Joinville left at 9:30am cost 13R and took about an hour and a half. I found the reserve following the instructions on www.arthurgrosset.com which were however for people with their own car. The bus driver hadn't heard of the reserve but one of the passengers had. The bus reaches the coast before Itapoa, goes left and then doubles back towards the right. On the website it says the name of the reserve is painted on a wall after several kms but I found that there was a poster instead. The road takes a right at the poster, then left straight away. For the reserve don't go left but instead straight ahead, away from the sea. After 3km you get to a bridge over a small river, then past some cleared land with young palmito palms planted. The road ends at the reserve where there are some buildings.
   When I got there (about midday) there was nobody at the reception but a worker approached me. He was very friendly and said it was no problem entering the reserve as long as they knew I was there and when I left (for safety reasons). Follow the signs towards the trails and then left at a house with a huge grass roof. This track goes through palmito, then excellent forest but there were many mosquitoes when I was there. I only birded a few hours in the middle of the day but still saw some good birds like Azure Jay, Unicolored Antwren, Mouse-colored Tapaculo and Restinga Tyrannulet, and heard Yellow-legged Tinamou and Bare-throated Bellbird. At the spot described for Kaempfer's Tody-Tyrant (1.2km into the forest, just before the river and a few hundred metres further on) I heard some strange nasal calls that could have been the bird. The reserve is definately worth birding at least a couple of mornings, preferably when there are fewer mosquitos.
I saw 71 species including 3 lifers

Yellow-legged Tinamou Crypturellus noctivagus Endemic Near-threatened Heard only Recorded
Magnificent Frigatebird Fregata magnificens
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Muscovy Duck Cairina moschata Photographed
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Rufous-thighed Kite Harpagus diodon
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris Heard only
Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima
Rusty-margined Guan Penelope superciliaris
Ash-throated Crake Porzana albicollis Possibly seen
Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis
Kelp Gull Larus dominicanus
Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti
Plain Parakeet Brotogeris tirica Endemic
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana Heard only
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
Guira Cuckoo Guira guira Heard only
Burrowing Owl Athene cunicularia
Ashy-tailed Swift Chaetura andrei
Violet-capped Woodnymph Thalurania glaucopis
Versicolored Emerald Agyrtria versicolor
Sapphire-spangled Emerald Polyerata lactea
Surucua Trogon Trogon surrucura
Campo Flicker Colaptes campestris
Blond-crested Woodpecker Celeus flavescens
Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus
Chicli Spinetail Synallaxis spixi Heard only Recorded
Variable Antshrike Thamnophilus caerulescens
Plain Antvireo Dysithamnus mentalis
Unicolored Antwren Myrmotherula unicolor Endemic Photographed Recorded
White-shouldered Fire-eye Pyriglena leucoptera Heard only
Mouse-colored Tapaculo Scytalopus speluncae Photographed
Bare-throated Bellbird Procnias nudicollis Near-threatened Heard only Recorded
Blue Manakin Chiroxiphia caudata Recorded
Restinga Tyrannulet Phylloscartes kronei Endemic Vulnerable Photographed
Yellow-lored Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum poliocephalum Endemic
Cattle Tyrant Machetornis rixosus
Gray-hooded Attila Attila rufus Endemic Heard only
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua Heard only
Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculatus
Piratic Flycatcher Legatus leucophaius
Variegated Flycatcher Empidonomus varius
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Fork-tailed Flycatcher Tyrannus savana
Black-tailed Tityra Tityra cayana
Gray-breasted Martin Progne chalybea
White-rumped Swallow Tachycineta leucorrhoa
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Rufous-bellied Thrush Turdus rufiventris
Creamy-bellied Thrush Turdus amaurochalinus
Azure Jay Cyanocorax caeruleus Near-threatened Recorded
Red-eyed Vireo Vireo olivaceus
Masked Yellowthroat Geothlypis aequinoctialis
White-bellied Warbler Basileuterus hypoleucus Photographed
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola
Ruby-crowned Tanager Tachyphonus coronatus
Azure-shouldered Tanager Thraupis cyanoptera Endemic Near-threatened
Green-headed Tanager Tangara seledon
Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina
Double-collared Seedeater Sporophila caerulescens
Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
White-browed Blackbird Sturnella superciliaris
Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis
Red-rumped Cacique Cacicus haemorrhous Heard only
House Sparrow Passer domesticus Introduced species


20. Garuva, Santa Catarina       19th December, 2006

   The small town of Garuva is on the main highway between Curitiba and Joinville. There are regular buses from Joinville and it only takes half an hour and costs about 7R so there is no real reason to stay in Garuva although there may be a hotel. The first bus leaves Joinville at 5:30am. From Garuva I tried to follow the instructions on the www.arthurgrosset.com homepage. Click on Site Notes, then Santa Catarina. Near town there are some small marshes where Marsh Antbird has been found. Unfortunately the instructions are for drivers in kms from Garuva and it is not so obvious if you are walking or hitching. As in the instruction on the page, from the Rodoviaria in Garuva, head towards Guaratuba and after about 100m turn left at the main junction and follow the road straight out of town, going straight as a die and not left further on. From the Rodoviaria the patches are at 15.5 and 17km.
   I started walking at 6am and managed to get on a bus which took me for about the first 5km. When the bus turned round, I got off and continued walking. After several kms there was an area of reeds where I heard Yellow-chinned Spinetail and Rufous-sided Crake and saw Blackish Rail in the nearby rice fields. I don’t think this first patch is the one referred to. After here, the road goes up a hill at a banana plantation. Further, on the left hand side are the 2 patches of reeds with forest in the background. I walked past these and tried some playback with no success. It was getting a bit late though so try and get there earlier and spend more time. I didn`t know these were the patches until it became much more obvious later on when I found no others. The land in this area is a mixture of banana, palmito plantations and rice fields. Further on, the road is flanked by forest patches. The rice fields were quite dry and had only a few waterbirds. Other seasons maybe much more productive. It got very hot by late morning and activity died down quickly and birding was not so good. A car is strongly recommended although hitching is possible along the road. I went as far as the small town of Cubatao. In the notes, it refers to a turning here that leads to good forest.
I saw 84 species including 1 lifer

Yellow-legged Tinamou Crypturellus noctivagus Endemic Near-threatened Heard only Recorded
Whistling Heron Syrigma sibilatrix
Great Egret Ardea alba
Snowy Egret Egretta thula
Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax
Rufescent Tiger-Heron Tigrisoma lineatum
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris
Crested Caracara Caracara cheriway
Blackish Rail Pardirallus nigricans Possibly seen
Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana
Black-necked Stilt Himantopus mexicanus
South American Snipe Gallinago paraguaiae
Solitary Sandpiper Tringa solitaria
Pale-vented Pigeon Patagioenas cayennensis
Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi Heard only
Plain Parakeet Brotogeris tirica Endemic
Scaly-headed Parrot Pionus maximiliani
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
Guira Cuckoo Guira guira
Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia Heard only
Burrowing Owl Athene cunicularia
Ashy-tailed Swift Chaetura andrei
Black Jacobin Florisuga fuscus
Black-throated Mango Anthracothorax nigricollis Possibly seen
Violet-capped Woodnymph Thalurania glaucopis Possibly seen
Sapphire-spangled Emerald Polyerata lactea
Surucua Trogon Trogon surrucura Heard only
Ringed Kingfisher Ceryle torquatus
Campo Flicker Colaptes campestris Recorded
Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus
Chicli Spinetail Synallaxis spixi Heard only
Yellow-chinned Spinetail Certhiaxis cinnamomea Recorded
Variable Antshrike Thamnophilus caerulescens Heard only
White-shouldered Fire-eye Pyriglena leucoptera Heard only
White-breasted Tapaculo Scytalopus indigoticus Endemic Near-threatened Heard only
White-bearded Manakin Manacus manacus Heard only
Blue Manakin Chiroxiphia caudata Heard only
Olivaceous Elaenia Elaenia mesoleuca Possibly seen
Yellow-lored Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum poliocephalum Endemic Photographed
Yellow-browed Tyrant Satrapa icterophrys
Long-tailed Tyrant Colonia colonus
Gray-hooded Attila Attila rufus Endemic Heard only
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus
Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis
Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculatus
Piratic Flycatcher Legatus leucophaius
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Fork-tailed Flycatcher Tyrannus savana
Black-tailed Tityra Tityra cayana
Brown-chested Martin Progne tapera
Gray-breasted Martin Progne chalybea
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
Yellowish Pipit Anthus lutescens Heard only
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Rufous-bellied Thrush Turdus rufiventris
Creamy-bellied Thrush Turdus amaurochalinus
Azure Jay Cyanocorax caeruleus Near-threatened
Red-eyed Vireo Vireo olivaceus Recorded
Tropical Parula Parula pitiayumi
Masked Yellowthroat Geothlypis aequinoctialis
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola
Ruby-crowned Tanager Tachyphonus coronatus Recorded
Brazilian Tanager Ramphocelus bresilius Endemic
Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca
Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum
Violaceous Euphonia Euphonia violacea Possibly seen
Red-necked Tanager Tangara cyanocephala
Blue Dacnis Dacnis cayana
Swallow-Tanager Tersina viridis
Red-crested Finch Coryphospingus cucullatus
Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina
Lined Seedeater Sporophila lineola
Double-collared Seedeater Sporophila caerulescens
Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola
Grassland Sparrow Ammodramus humeralis
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
White-browed Blackbird Sturnella superciliaris
Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis
Red-rumped Cacique Cacicus haemorrhous Possibly seen
House Sparrow Passer domesticus Introduced species


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