Sites visited


1. Rio Mamore & Trinidad area       August, 2005

   The Rio Mamore can be easily visited from Trinidad by public transport. You can take a motorbike taxi (Bs20) or a communal taxi (Bs10 per person) from where the anillo meets the road out to the river. Once at the river where boats take cars accross, tell someone "Quiero pasear en bote" and they will find Juan the boatman and his frilly, pink boat. He charges Bs50 per hour regardless of the number of people. We took a 2 hour trip up river and back. I saw many waterbirds including Orinoco Goose, Black Skimmer, 2 species of terns and Roseate Spoonbill. The main attraction though are the pink river dolphins which may prove to be a Bolivian endemic species. A lake on the way to the river had ducks and waders including White-backed Stilt. Chestnut-fronted Macaw and White-eyed Parakeets roost in Trinidad plaza. Many waterbirds can be seen along the first stretch of the road north from the statue of a guy with 2 bulls on the anillo in Trini. Laguna Suarez, 20 minutes south of Trinidad, is good for waterbirds and Blue-and-yellow Macaw can also be seen.
I saw 67 species including lifers

Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus Photographed
Cocoi Heron Ardea cocoi
Great Egret Ardea alba
Snowy Egret Egretta thula
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Jabiru Jabiru mycteria
Green Ibis Mesembrinibis cayennensis Possibly seen
Roseate Spoonbill Platalea ajaja Photographed
Southern Screamer Chauna torquata
Orinoco Goose Neochen jubata Near-threatened Photographed
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Osprey Pandion haliaetus
Snail Kite Rostrhamus sociabilis
Great Black-Hawk Buteogallus urubitinga
Savanna Hawk Buteogallus meridionalis
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris
Southern Caracara Caracara plancus
Aplomado Falcon Falco femoralis
Purple Gallinule Porphyrio martinica
Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana
White-backed Stilt Himantopus melanurus
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis
Collared Plover Charadrius collaris
Lesser Yellowlegs Tringa flavipes
Pectoral Sandpiper Calidris melanotos Photographed
Yellow-billed Tern Sterna superciliaris Photographed
Large-billed Tern Phaetusa simplex Photographed
Black Skimmer Rynchops niger Photographed
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Introduced species
Picui Ground-Dove Columbina picui
Chestnut-fronted Macaw Ara severa
White-eyed Parakeet Aratinga leucophthalmus
Dusky-headed Parakeet Aratinga weddellii Possibly seen
Blue-winged Parrotlet Forpus xanthopterygius
Yellow-chevroned Parakeet Brotogeris chiriri
Greater Ani Crotophaga major
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
Guira Cuckoo Guira guira
Glittering-bellied Emerald Chlorostilbon aureoventris
Glittering-throated Emerald Polyerata fimbriata
Ringed Kingfisher Ceryle torquatus
Amazon Kingfisher Chloroceryle amazona Photographed
Chestnut-eared Aracari Pteroglossus castanotis
Crimson-crested Woodpecker Campephilus melanoleucos Possibly seen
Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus
Large Elaenia Elaenia spectabilis Possibly seen
Yellow-bellied Elaenia Elaenia flavogaster Possibly seen
Common Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum cinereum
Black-backed Water-Tyrant Fluvicola albiventer
Cattle Tyrant Machetornis rixosus
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua
Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Brown-chested Martin Progne tapera
Gray-breasted Martin Progne chalybea
White-winged Swallow Tachycineta albiventer
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca
Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum
Purple-throated Euphonia Euphonia chlorotica
Double-collared Seedeater Sporophila caerulescens
Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola
Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis
Venezuelan Troupial Icterus icterus
House Sparrow Passer domesticus Introduced species


2. Llanos de Mojos (near Trinidad), Beni       August - 13th December, 2005

   I birded this area while working as a volonteer on the World Parrot Trust Blue-throated Macaw project and many areas I went were on private land where we had permission to work. Blue-throated Macaws are all on private land and cannot really be seen privately. The best thing to do is contact Armonia and ask them advice. There is also a travel angent in Trinidad that can organise a tour to see the bird on a local estancia. Other areas of interest are along the main road north towards San Ramon. Between the towns of San Javier and San Pedro there are good wetland areas (in the dry season) for water birds including Ash-throated Crake, Rufous-sided Crake and 3 species of Stork. Stopping anywhere along this road however can be rewarding. After about 2 hours, you reach the River Ipurupuru with a pontoon bridge accross. Further north from here there is a fork and you can go left towards Santa Ana (only in the dry season). This road passes close by the Rio Mamore and its gallery forest has some distinctly amazonian type birds like Red-rumped Cacique. After this there is a ferry boat accros the river to Santa Ana. Back at the fork, go right towards San Ramon. After an hour or so, you will see a big lake. Watch out in roadside ditches on the other side for Sunbittern. Little Cuckoo was also seen accross here. This is private land which the road passes through. Don't stray from the road. The Llanos has very extreme seasons. The dry season is incredible dry and often burning field gets out of control. The wet season puts the whole area underwater and although very green, there are huge numbers of mosquitos.
I saw 280 species including lifers

Greater Rhea Rhea americana Near-threatened Photographed
Undulated Tinamou Crypturellus undulatus
Small-billed Tinamou Crypturellus parvirostris Photographed
Red-winged Tinamou Rhynchotus rufescens Photographed
Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus
Anhinga Anhinga anhinga
Whistling Heron Syrigma sibilatrix Photographed
Capped Heron Pilherodius pileatus Photographed
Cocoi Heron Ardea cocoi
Great Egret Ardea alba
Snowy Egret Egretta thula
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Striated Heron Butorides striata Photographed
Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax Photographed
Rufescent Tiger-Heron Tigrisoma lineatum Photographed
Wood Stork Mycteria americana Photographed
Maguari Stork Ciconia maguari Photographed
Jabiru Jabiru mycteria Photographed
Plumbeous Ibis Theristicus caerulescens Photographed
Buff-necked Ibis Theristicus caudatus Photographed
Green Ibis Mesembrinibis cayennensis Photographed
Bare-faced Ibis Phimosus infuscatus Photographed
Roseate Spoonbill Platalea ajaja Photographed
Southern Screamer Chauna torquata Photographed
Fulvous Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna bicolor Possibly seen
White-faced Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna viduata Photographed
Black-bellied Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna autumnalis Photographed
Orinoco Goose Neochen jubata Near-threatened
Muscovy Duck Cairina moschata Photographed
Brazilian Teal Amazonetta brasiliensis Photographed
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus Photographed
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes burrovianus Photographed
Hook-billed Kite Chondrohierax uncinatus Possibly seen
Swallow-tailed Kite Elanoides forficatus Photographed
Pearl Kite Gampsonyx swainsonii Possibly seen
Snail Kite Rostrhamus sociabilis Photographed
Plumbeous Kite Ictinia plumbea
Long-winged Harrier Circus buffoni
Crane Hawk Geranospiza caerulescens
Slate-colored Hawk Leucopternis schistaceus
Great Black-Hawk Buteogallus urubitinga Photographed
Savanna Hawk Buteogallus meridionalis Photographed
Black-collared Hawk Busarellus nigricollis Photographed
Gray Hawk Asturina nitida
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris Photographed
White-tailed Hawk Buteo albicaudatus Photographed
Southern Caracara Caracara plancus Photographed
Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima Photographed
Laughing Falcon Herpetotheres cachinnans Photographed
American Kestrel Falco sparverius Photographed
Aplomado Falcon Falco femoralis
Bat Falcon Falco rufigularis Photographed
Speckled Chachalaca Ortalis guttata Photographed
Blue-throated Piping-Guan Pipile cumanensis
Hoatzin Opisthocomus hoazin Photographed
Limpkin Aramus guarauna Photographed
Rufous-sided Crake Laterallus melanophaius Photographed
Gray-necked Wood-Rail Aramides cajanea Photographed
Ash-throated Crake Porzana albicollis Photographed
Purple Gallinule Porphyrio martinica Photographed
Azure Gallinule Porphyrio flavirostris Photographed
Sunbittern Eurypyga helias
Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana Photographed
White-backed Stilt Himantopus melanurus
Pied Lapwing Vanellus cayanus Photographed
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis Photographed
Collared Plover Charadrius collaris Photographed
South American Snipe Gallinago paraguaiae
Upland Sandpiper Bartramia longicauda
Lesser Yellowlegs Tringa flavipes
Solitary Sandpiper Tringa solitaria Photographed
Spotted Sandpiper Actitis macularia Photographed
Pectoral Sandpiper Calidris melanotos Photographed
Yellow-billed Tern Sterna superciliaris
Large-billed Tern Phaetusa simplex
Black Skimmer Rynchops niger
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Introduced species
Picazuro Pigeon Patagioenas picazuro
Pale-vented Pigeon Patagioenas cayennensis
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata Photographed
Plain-breasted Ground-Dove Columbina minuta Photographed
Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti Photographed
Picui Ground-Dove Columbina picui
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi Photographed
Blue-and-yellow Macaw Ara ararauna Photographed
Blue-throated Macaw Ara glaucogularis Endemic Critically endangered Photographed
Red-and-green Macaw Ara chloroptera Photographed
Chestnut-fronted Macaw Ara severa Photographed
Golden-collared Macaw Primolius auricollis Photographed
White-eyed Parakeet Aratinga leucophthalmus Photographed
Dusky-headed Parakeet Aratinga weddellii Photographed
Peach-fronted Parakeet Aratinga aurea Photographed
Blue-winged Parrotlet Forpus xanthopterygius Photographed
Yellow-chevroned Parakeet Brotogeris chiriri Photographed
Scaly-headed Parrot Pionus maximiliani Photographed
Blue-fronted Parrot Amazona aestiva Photographed
Yellow-billed Cuckoo Coccyzus americanus
Dark-billed Cuckoo Coccyzus melacoryphus Possibly seen
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana
Little Cuckoo Piaya minuta
Greater Ani Crotophaga major Photographed
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani Photographed
Guira Cuckoo Guira guira Photographed
Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia
Barn Owl Tyto alba
Tropical Screech-Owl Megascops choliba Photographed
Tawny-bellied Screech-Owl Megascops watsonii Photographed
Great Horned Owl Bubo virginianus Photographed
Black-banded Owl Ciccaba huhula Possibly seen
Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium brasilianum Photographed
Burrowing Owl Athene cunicularia
Great Potoo Nyctibius grandis Heard only
Short-tailed Nighthawk Lurocalis semitorquatus Possibly seen
Nacunda Nighthawk Podager nacunda Photographed
Pauraque Nyctidromus albicollis
Little Nightjar Caprimulgus parvulus Photographed
Spot-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus maculicaudus Photographed
Scissor-tailed Nightjar Hydropsalis torquata Photographed
White-bearded Hermit Phaethornis hispidus Possibly seen
Swallow-tailed Hummingbird Eupetomena macrourus Photographed
Black-throated Mango Anthracothorax nigricollis Photographed
White-tailed Goldenthroat Polytmus guainumbi
Glittering-throated Emerald Polyerata fimbriata Photographed
Blue-crowned Trogon Trogon curucui Photographed
Ringed Kingfisher Ceryle torquatus
Green Kingfisher Chloroceryle americana
American Pygmy Kingfisher Chloroceryle aenea
Rufous-tailed Jacamar Galbula ruficauda Photographed
White-eared Puffbird Nystalus chacuru
Black-fronted Nunbird Monasa nigrifrons Photographed
Chestnut-eared Aracari Pteroglossus castanotis Photographed
Toco Toucan Ramphastos toco Photographed
White-wedged Piculet Picumnus albosquamatus Photographed
White Woodpecker Melanerpes candidus
Checkered Woodpecker Picoides mixtus
Little Woodpecker Veniliornis passerinus
Golden-green Woodpecker Piculus chrysochloros
Spot-breasted Woodpecker Colaptes punctigula Photographed
Campo Flicker Colaptes campestris Photographed
Pale-crested Woodpecker Celeus lugubris Photographed
Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus Photographed
Crimson-crested Woodpecker Campephilus melanoleucos Photographed
Cream-backed Woodpecker Campephilus leucopogon Photographed
Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus Photographed
Chotoy Spinetail Schoeniophylax phryganophila
Pale-breasted Spinetail Synallaxis albescens Photographed
Plain-crowned Spinetail Synallaxis gujanensis
Rusty-backed Spinetail Cranioleuca vulpina
Yellow-chinned Spinetail Certhiaxis cinnamomea Photographed
Plain Softtail Phacellodomus fusciceps Possibly seen
Greater Thornbird Phacellodomus ruber Photographed
Gray-crested Cacholote Pseudoseisura unirufa Photographed
Olivaceous Woodcreeper Sittasomus griseicapillus Photographed
Great Rufous Woodcreeper Xiphocolaptes major Photographed
Black-banded Woodcreeper Dendrocolaptes picumnus Photographed
Straight-billed Woodcreeper Dendroplex picus Photographed
Narrow-billed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes angustirostris Photographed
Red-billed Scythebill Campylorhamphus trochilirostris Photographed
Great Antshrike Taraba major Photographed
Barred Antshrike Thamnophilus doliatus Photographed
Bolivian Slaty-Antshrike Thamnophilus sticturus Possibly seen
Rusty-backed Antwren Formicivora rufa Photographed
Mato Grosso Antbird Cercomacra melanaria Photographed
Bare-necked Fruitcrow Gymnoderus foetidus
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet Camptostoma obsoletum
Forest Elaenia Myiopagis gaimardii Possibly seen
Yellow-bellied Elaenia Elaenia flavogaster
Small-billed Elaenia Elaenia parvirostris
Lesser Elaenia Elaenia chiriquensis
White-bellied Tyrannulet Serpophaga munda
Southern Scrub-Flycatcher Sublegatus modestus
Suiriri Flycatcher Suiriri suiriri
Sharp-tailed Tyrant Culicivora caudacuta Vulnerable
Rusty-fronted Tody-Flycatcher Poecilotriccus latirostris Photographed
Common Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum cinereum Photographed
Yellow-olive Flycatcher Tolmomyias sulphurescens
Bran-colored Flycatcher Myiophobus fasciatus
Fuscous Flycatcher Cnemotriccus fuscatus Photographed
Alder Flycatcher Empidonax alnorum Possibly seen
Vermilion Flycatcher Pyrocephalus rubinus Photographed
Gray Monjita Xolmis cinerea Photographed
White-rumped Monjita Xolmis velata Photographed
White Monjita Xolmis irupero Photographed
Hudson's Black-Tyrant Knipolegus hudsoni Photographed
Spectacled Tyrant Hymenops perspicillatus
Black-backed Water-Tyrant Fluvicola albiventer
White-headed Marsh-Tyrant Arundinicola leucocephala Photographed
Cock-tailed Tyrant Alectrurus tricolor Vulnerable
Yellow-browed Tyrant Satrapa icterophrys
Cattle Tyrant Machetornis rixosus Photographed
Dull-capped Attila Attila bolivianus Photographed
Rufous Casiornis Casiornis rufa Photographed
Dusky-capped Flycatcher Myiarchus tuberculifer Photographed
Swainson's Flycatcher Myiarchus swainsoni Possibly seen
Short-crested Flycatcher Myiarchus ferox Photographed
Brown-crested Flycatcher Myiarchus tyrannulus Photographed
Lesser Kiskadee Philohydor lictor
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus Photographed
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua
Rusty-margined Flycatcher Myiozetetes cayanensis
Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis
Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculatus Photographed
Piratic Flycatcher Legatus leucophaius Photographed
Variegated Flycatcher Empidonomus varius Photographed
Crowned Slaty Flycatcher Griseotyrannus aurantioatrocristatus Photographed
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus Photographed
Fork-tailed Flycatcher Tyrannus savana Photographed
Green-backed Becard Pachyramphus viridis Photographed
White-winged Becard Pachyramphus polychopterus
Black-tailed Tityra Tityra cayana Photographed
Brown-chested Martin Progne tapera Photographed
Gray-breasted Martin Progne chalybea Photographed
White-winged Swallow Tachycineta albiventer
White-rumped Swallow Tachycineta leucorrhoa
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
Cliff Swallow Petrochelidon pyrrhonota
Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica
Yellowish Pipit Anthus lutescens
Black-capped Donacobius Donacobius atricapilla Photographed
Thrush-like Wren Campylorhynchus turdinus Photographed
Fawn-breasted Wren Thryothorus guarayanus Photographed
House Wren Troglodytes aedon Photographed
Chalk-browed Mockingbird Mimus saturninus
Creamy-bellied Thrush Turdus amaurochalinus
Black-billed Thrush Turdus ignobilis
Masked Gnatcatcher Polioptila dumicola Photographed
Purplish Jay Cyanocorax cyanomelas Photographed
Plush-crested Jay Cyanocorax chrysops Photographed
Rufous-crowned Greenlet Hylophilus poicilotis Possibly seen
Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis Photographed
Tropical Parula Parula pitiayumi
Masked Yellowthroat Geothlypis aequinoctialis
White-rumped Tanager Cypsnagra hirundinacea
Hooded Tanager Nemosia pileata
Silver-beaked Tanager Ramphocelus carbo
Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca Photographed
Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum Photographed
Purple-throated Euphonia Euphonia chlorotica
Thick-billed Euphonia Euphonia laniirostris
Black-masked Finch Coryphaspiza melanotis Vulnerable Photographed
Red-crested Finch Coryphospingus cucullatus Photographed
Long-tailed Reed-Finch Donacospiza albifrons Photographed
Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina Photographed
Plumbeous Seedeater Sporophila plumbea
Rusty-collared Seedeater Sporophila collaris Photographed
Lined Seedeater Sporophila lineola Photographed
Double-collared Seedeater Sporophila caerulescens Photographed
White-bellied Seedeater Sporophila leucoptera Photographed
Tawny-bellied Seedeater Sporophila hypoxantha Photographed
Dark-throated Seedeater Sporophila ruficollis Near-threatened Photographed
Great-billed Seed-Finch Oryzoborus maximiliani
Chestnut-bellied Seed-Finch Oryzoborus angolensis
Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola Photographed
Wedge-tailed Grass-Finch Emberizoides herbicola Photographed
Great Pampa-Finch Embernagra platensis Photographed
Red-crested Cardinal Paroaria coronata Photographed
Red-capped Cardinal Paroaria gularis Photographed
Grassland Sparrow Ammodramus humeralis
Yellow-browed Sparrow Ammodramus aurifrons Photographed
Grayish Saltator Saltator coerulescens Photographed
Blue-black Grosbeak Cyanocompsa cyanoides Possibly seen
Bobolink Dolichonyx oryzivorus
Unicolored Blackbird Agelasticus cyanopus Photographed
Red-breasted Blackbird Sturnella militaris Photographed
White-browed Blackbird Sturnella superciliaris Photographed
Bay-winged Cowbird Molothrus badius Photographed
Screaming Cowbird Molothrus rufoaxillaris Photographed
Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis Photographed
Giant Cowbird Molothrus oryzivorus Possibly seen
Epaulet Oriole Icterus cayanensis
Venezuelan Troupial Icterus icterus Photographed
Yellow-rumped Cacique Cacicus cela Photographed
Red-rumped Cacique Cacicus haemorrhous
Solitary Cacique Cacicus solitarius Photographed
Crested Oropendola Psarocolius decumanus Photographed
Scarlet-headed Blackbird Amblyramphus holosericeus Photographed
Chopi Blackbird Gnorimopsar chopi Photographed
Velvet-fronted Grackle Lampropsar tanagrinus Photographed
House Sparrow Passer domesticus Introduced species


3. Hamburgo (near Riberalta), Beni       21st & 23rd December, 2005

   Hamburgo is easily reached from Riberalta by bike-taxi (about Bs5). Riberalta has many places to stay and eat. On the bike-taxi, you will pass lots of brick building places and finally reach the river where a boat takes people accross. Pale-legged Hornero was seen near here. Get off here and walk back along towards Riberalta. After about 200m you'll see a diagonal path leading off to the right. Follow this along and explore the trails. You cross a small stream and then get to a 3-way junction of trails. The right hand trail lead through some secondary forest with Chestnut Woodpecker and Lettered Aracari and ends in a small house. At the 3 way junction, go straight, bear left at the next junction, go over a broken bridge and along to the end. From here was flooded when I was there but taking a small trail into the forest on the left (a short distance after the bridge) and exploring a bit, I heard and then saw a Masked Antpitta singing 7-8m up in the trees. Just before dusk is best for singing but I heard it calling at midday when it was overcast. The call can be heard at the following link. http://www.birdsongs.com/Bolivia/snds_eng.htm Look out for Band-tailed Nighthawks on the way back when it's getting dark. Bikes are usually easy to flag down on the way back.
I saw 66 species including 14 lifers

Cinereous Tinamou Crypturellus cinereus Heard only
Undulated Tinamou Crypturellus undulatus Heard only
Striated Heron Butorides striata
Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax Possibly seen
Rufescent Tiger-Heron Tigrisoma lineatum
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Greater Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes melambrotus
Slate-colored Hawk Leucopternis schistaceus Photographed
Black-collared Hawk Busarellus nigricollis
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris
Laughing Falcon Herpetotheres cachinnans
Starred Wood-Quail Odontophorus stellatus Heard only
Limpkin Aramus guarauna
Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana
Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti
Gray-fronted Dove Leptotila rufaxilla
Chestnut-fronted Macaw Ara severa Heard only
Dusky-headed Parakeet Aratinga weddellii
Tui Parakeet Brotogeris sanctithomae Photographed
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana
Greater Ani Crotophaga major
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
Band-tailed Nighthawk Nyctiprogne leucopyga Possibly seen
Blue-tailed Emerald Chlorostilbon mellisugus
Sapphire-spangled Emerald Polyerata lactea
Ringed Kingfisher Ceryle torquatus
Rufous-tailed Jacamar Galbula ruficauda
Chestnut-capped Puffbird Bucco macrodactylus
Black-fronted Nunbird Monasa nigrifrons
Lettered Aracari Pteroglossus inscriptus
Yellow-tufted Woodpecker Melanerpes cruentatus Photographed
Chestnut Woodpecker Celeus elegans Photographed
Cream-colored Woodpecker Celeus flavus Possibly seen
Pale-legged Hornero Furnarius leucopus
Plain-crowned Spinetail Synallaxis gujanensis
Straight-billed Woodcreeper Dendroplex picus Possibly seen
Great Antshrike Taraba major Heard only
Warbling Antbird Hypocnemis cantator Possibly seen
Masked Antpitta Hylopezus auricularis Endemic Vulnerable
Dull-capped Attila Attila bolivianus
Rufous Casiornis Casiornis rufa Possibly seen
Lesser Kiskadee Philohydor lictor
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua Heard only
Rusty-margined Flycatcher Myiozetetes cayanensis
Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis Possibly seen
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Brown-chested Martin Progne tapera Possibly seen
Black-capped Donacobius Donacobius atricapilla
Thrush-like Wren Campylorhynchus turdinus
Fawn-breasted Wren Thryothorus guarayanus Possibly seen
Hauxwell's Thrush Turdus hauxwelli
White-necked Thrush Turdus albicollis Possibly seen
White-shouldered Tanager Tachyphonus luctuosus
Silver-beaked Tanager Ramphocelus carbo
Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus
Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum
Blue Dacnis Dacnis cayana Photographed
Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina Photographed
Lined Seedeater Sporophila lineola
White-bellied Seedeater Sporophila leucoptera
Chestnut-bellied Seed-Finch Oryzoborus angolensis Possibly seen
Red-capped Cardinal Paroaria gularis
Yellow-browed Sparrow Ammodramus aurifrons
Grayish Saltator Saltator coerulescens
Solitary Cacique Cacicus solitarius


4. San Lorenzo de Pampas (near Riberalta)       22nd December, 2005

   This place is famous as only one of 2 sites in Bolivia for the rare Rufous-sided Pygmy Tyrant. It is fairly easy to get to on public transport. Take a bus towards Guayaramerin and tell the bus driver to let you off at San Lorenzo de Pampas, which he should know. If not, try saying Quime (a town 2km away from the turning) or km36. It is another 30 minutes after you pass a military camp. A bus left Riberalta at about 7am. You should get dropped off at a right turn accross from a grass-rooved shelter. On the bus before this, look left for a few buildings called 'Communidad El Hondo' then a sign on the right for 'Hacienda Mercedita'. When you get dropped off, take the right turning towards Quime. Ahead, there appears to be a locked gate. Take a turning to right which passes through grassland. The road passes a patch of forest to the right, about 500m after which I saw the pygmy-tyrants in longer bunches of grass next to the track. Listen for their distinctive, fluty 'pyup pyup' calls. White-bellied Parrots could be seen flying over earlier on and Black-faced Tanagers seemed fairly common along here.
I saw 23 species including 3 lifers

Red-winged Tinamou Rhynchotus rufescens Heard only
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris Possibly seen
White-bellied Parrot Pionites leucogaster
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
White-tailed Goldenthroat Polytmus guainumbi Possibly seen
White Woodpecker Melanerpes candidus Possibly heard
Yellow-tufted Woodpecker Melanerpes cruentatus
Rusty-backed Antwren Formicivora rufa
Yellow-bellied Elaenia Elaenia flavogaster
Small-billed Elaenia Elaenia parvirostris
Rufous-sided Pygmy-Tyrant Euscarthmus rufomarginatus Near-threatened Photographed
Gray Monjita Xolmis cinerea Photographed
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus
Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculatus Possibly seen
Variegated Flycatcher Empidonomus varius Photographed
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Black-faced Tanager Schistochlamys melanopis
Purple Honeycreeper Cyanerpes caeruleus
Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina
Wedge-tailed Grass-Finch Emberizoides herbicola Photographed
Grassland Sparrow Ammodramus humeralis Photographed
Yellow-rumped Cacique Cacicus cela


5. Antofagasta (near Riberalta)       23rd December, 2005

   There appeaars to be no public transport here. I took a bike taxi from Riberalta (Bs30 - overcharged?) which took about 40mins. The guy hadn't heard of Antofagasta but knew Warnes, another small town on the way. Once on the track, continue straight on to Antofagasta instead of turning off left to Warnes. I asked the guy to come back to pick me up but he wasn't keen. I was lucky enough to get a ride back with a twice-weekly Brazil nut truck. It would be a long walk back. Very few vehicles seem to pass this road. Once at the few buildings in Antofagasta, you can continue on along the same track and expore the various side trails. Straight on goes to a river. A left fork passes through some good forest. This area merits several days birding. I only had 1 day.
I saw 40 species including 9 lifers

Little Tinamou Crypturellus soui Heard only
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Greater Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes melambrotus
Plumbeous Kite Ictinia plumbea
Tiny Hawk Accipiter superciliosus Possibly seen
Laughing Falcon Herpetotheres cachinnans
Bat Falcon Falco rufigularis Possibly seen
Speckled Chachalaca Ortalis guttata Heard only
Pale-vented Pigeon Patagioenas cayennensis
Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti Possibly seen
Ruddy Quail-Dove Geotrygon montana
White-eyed Parakeet Aratinga leucophthalmus Possibly seen
Dusky-headed Parakeet Aratinga weddellii
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
Pauraque Nyctidromus albicollis Possibly seen
Short-tailed Swift Chaetura brachyura
Reddish Hermit Phaethornis ruber Possibly seen
Fork-tailed Woodnymph Thalurania furcata Possibly seen
White-tailed Trogon Trogon viridis
Rufous-tailed Jacamar Galbula ruficauda
Pied Puffbird Notharchus tectus Photographed
Plain-brown Woodcreeper Dendrocincla fuliginosa Photographed
White-browed Antbird Myrmoborus leucophrys
Warbling Antbird Hypocnemis cantator
Purple-throated Fruitcrow Querula purpurata
Red-headed Manakin Pipra rubrocapilla
White-bellied Tody Tyrant Hemitriccus griseipectus
Long-tailed Tyrant Colonia colonus
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua
Moustached Wren Thryothorus genibarbis
Red-billed Pied Tanager Lamprospiza melanoleuca Possibly seen
White-shouldered Tanager Tachyphonus luctuosus Possibly seen
Silver-beaked Tanager Ramphocelus carbo
Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus
Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum
Paradise Tanager Tangara chilensis
Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina
Buff-throated Saltator Saltator maximus
Crested Oropendola Psarocolius decumanus


6. Amboro National Park (from Buena Vista), Santa Cruz       28th-30th December, 2006

   This large national park can be accessed from several different towns. I visited from the town of Buena Vista, just 2 hours from Santa Cruz. I arranged my trip into the park by visiting the park office in town. Ask there to be put in touch with a man named Ramon who also works as a guide and is knowledgeable about the birds. Another good source of information is a British ex-pat naturalist called Robin Clark. He has his own guest house called Flora & Fauna and does bird tours although they are a little pricy. Ramon wasn't available to take me into the park but found another guide called Franklin who took me in. I hired him for 3 days (2 nights). All the guides charge $15 per day. I bought supplies in Buena Vista and Franklin hired a motorbike for $20 which we took as far as the Surutu River. A 4-wheel drive vehicle can be hired to drop you off here for $40 which would be a better option for a group. On the way there we passed the communities of Huayto, Espejito and finally Santa Rosa. It is about 30km to Santa Rosa from Buena Vista and there maybe taxis that go to here. It is probably another 7km or so from there to the river. The turnoff for the park is well signed.
   From the river it was still another 5km (passing through the village of Villa Amboro) to the camp site at the park boundary. 10-15Bs might be charged by the local people on the way out passing through the village. We continued up the Macu�ucu valley to a series of cavernas (rock overhangs) underwhich we slept. There were few mosquitos and a tent wasn't necesary. There were several good areas outside the park with Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher, White-eyed Tody-Tyrant and White-bellied Nothura and forest patches in the park with Chestnut-tailed Antbird, Green-cheeked Parakeet, Gold-and-green and Paradise Tanagers. River Warbler, Pectoral Sparrow and Black Phoebe could be seen along the river. On the second day we moved camp to a second 'caverna' accessed by walking upstream and often through the river. Above this second caverna roosted Military Macaws which could be heard in the evening. Nearby is a cave with 'Guacharos', the local name for Oilbirds. From the second caverna, climb a trail over a hill and back down to the river upstream. Further up, on the otherside a trail climbs up to a Mirador. This trail is good for Horned Curassow. I saw them at the bottom at 6am, drinking from a small side stream. Red-billed Toucan, Black-throated (Emerald) Toucanet, Mitred Parakeet and King Vulture were also seen in this area. The river is crystal clear and great for a dip in the middle of the day. The water is OK to drink but I purified it just in case. After heavy rain, the river level rises very quickly and can cut you off.
I saw 90 species including 19 lifers

Greater Rhea Rhea americana Near-threatened Seen between SC and BV
Cinereous Tinamou Crypturellus cinereus Heard only
White-bellied Nothura Nothura boraquira
Great Egret Ardea alba
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Greater Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes melambrotus
King Vulture Sarcoramphus papa
Double-toothed Kite Harpagus bidentatus Possibly seen
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris
Southern Caracara Caracara plancus
American Kestrel Falco sparverius
Bat Falcon Falco rufigularis
Speckled Chachalaca Ortalis guttata Heard only
Horned Curassow Pauxi unicornis Endangered
Pied Lapwing Vanellus cayanus
Plumbeous Pigeon Patagioenas plumbea
Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi Heard only
Gray-fronted Dove Leptotila rufaxilla
Military Macaw Ara militaris Vulnerable
Chestnut-fronted Macaw Ara severa
Mitred Parakeet Aratinga mitrata
White-eyed Parakeet Aratinga leucophthalmus
Green-cheeked Parakeet Pyrrhura molinae
Blue-winged Parrotlet Forpus xanthopterygius
Cobalt-winged Parakeet Brotogeris cyanoptera
Blue-headed Parrot Pionus menstruus
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana
Greater Ani Crotophaga major
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
Guira Cuckoo Guira guira
Spectacled Owl Pulsatrix perspicillata Heard only
Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium brasilianum
Oilbird Steatornis caripensis Photographed
Planalto Hermit Phaethornis pretrei Possibly seen
Fork-tailed Woodnymph Thalurania furcata
White-bellied Hummingbird Leucippus chionogaster Possibly seen
Collared Trogon Trogon collaris
Blue-crowned Trogon Trogon curucui
Black-tailed Trogon Trogon melanurus
Ringed Kingfisher Ceryle torquatus
Amazon Kingfisher Chloroceryle amazona
Blue-crowned Motmot Momotus momota
Red-billed Toucan Ramphastos tucanus
Black-throated Toucanet Aulacorhynchus atrogularis Photographed
Crimson-crested Woodpecker Campephilus melanoleucos
Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus
Plain-brown Woodcreeper Dendrocincla fuliginosa
Great Antshrike Taraba major Heard only
Southern Chestnut-tailed Antbird Myrmeciza hemimelaena
Red-headed Manakin Pipra rubrocapilla
White-bellied Tody Tyrant Hemitriccus griseipectus
Cliff Flycatcher Hirundinea ferruginea
Black Phoebe Sayornis nigricans Photographed
Cattle Tyrant Machetornis rixosus
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua
Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis
Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher Myiodynastes luteiventris
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Eastern Kingbird Tyrannus tyrannus
Masked Tityra Tityra semifasciata Possibly seen
Brown-chested Martin Progne tapera
Thrush-like Wren Campylorhynchus turdinus
Fawn-breasted Wren Thryothorus guarayanus
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Scaly-breasted Wren Microcerculus marginatus Heard only
Swainson's Thrush Catharus ustulatus
Black-billed Thrush Turdus ignobilis
Purplish Jay Cyanocorax cyanomelas
Tropical Parula Parula pitiayumi
Golden-crowned Warbler Basileuterus culicivorus
Neotropical River Warbler Basileuterus rivularis
White-shouldered Tanager Tachyphonus luctuosus
Red-crowned Ant-Tanager Habia rubica
Silver-beaked Tanager Ramphocelus carbo
Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca
Paradise Tanager Tangara chilensis
Green-and-gold Tanager Tangara schrankii
Blue Dacnis Dacnis cayana
Chestnut-bellied Seed-Finch Oryzoborus angolensis
Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola
Pectoral Sparrow Arremon taciturnus
Yellow-browed Sparrow Ammodramus aurifrons
Grayish Saltator Saltator coerulescens
Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis
Dusky-green Oropendola Psarocolius atrovirens
Russet-backed Oropendola Psarocolius angustifrons
House Sparrow Passer domesticus Introduced species


7. Quillacollo Road (near Cochabamba), Cochabamba       3rd-4th January, 2006

   This is a great place to see some of the dry inter-Andean valley specialties. Take any bus to Quillacollo from Aroma. Get off after you see a statue looking like a chubby Lenin. There are a many minibuses waiting here. Ask which one goes to Liriuni. There are a number of micros and communal taxis going to different points along the road. One strategy is to take any one as far as it goes, then flag down another when it comes past.The order of communities along this road are Ironcollo, Marquina, Bellavista and finally the hotsprings at Liriuni. I would recommend getting a communal taxi as far as Bellavista and walk the rest. From Bellavista walk up the road, which curves round a bend before continuing up the valley. Wedge-tailed Hillstar has been see here but I didn't see it. The first stretch is good for Brown-backed Mockingbird, White-winged Black-Tyrant, Rufous-sided Warbling-Finch and Bolivian Blackbird. Continue up and turn right at a fork towards 'Calio'. This road goes down into a valley and crosses a river. After this it continues up past some old buildings and a row of Eucalyptus trees. This was a good spot for Sparkling Violetear and Giant Hummingbird. Further up it enters a larger valleY where Grey-bellied Flowerpiercer was common down a steep bank. The road finally arrives at Liriuni where Bolivian tourists like to bathe in the luke warm water. Follow the road past here and after a curve to the left, there is a small valley with a stream coming down. Up here is some remnant Polylepis. Scramble up the riverbed to a large Eucalyptus tree. Here I saw Cochabamba Mountain Finch, Rufous-bellied Saltator and Tawny Tit-Spinetail. There are a couple of small stalls in Liriuni with snacks and drinks and taxis wait to take people back down.
I saw 47 species including 9 lifers

American Kestrel Falco sparverius
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Introduced species
Band-tailed Pigeon Patagioenas fasciata
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata
Picui Ground-Dove Columbina picui
Bare-faced Ground-Dove Metriopelia ceciliae
Gray-hooded Parakeet Psilopsiagon aymara
Andean Swift Aeronautes andecolus
Green Violet-ear Colibri thalassinus Possibly seen
Sparkling Violet-ear Colibri coruscans
Giant Hummingbird Patagona gigas Photographed
Red-tailed Comet Sappho sparganura
Green-barred Woodpecker Colaptes melanochloros
Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus
Tawny Tit-Spinetail Leptasthenura yanacensis Near-threatened Photographed
Creamy-breasted Canastero Asthenes dorbignyi
White-tipped Plantcutter Phytotoma rutila
White-crested Elaenia Elaenia albiceps
Tufted Tit-Tyrant Anairetes parulus
Cliff Flycatcher Hirundinea ferruginea
Lesser Shrike-Tyrant Agriornis murina Possibly seen
White-winged Black-Tyrant Knipolegus aterrimus Photographed
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca Photographed
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Brown-backed Mockingbird Mimus dorsalis
Chiguanco Thrush Turdus chiguanco Photographed
Creamy-bellied Thrush Turdus amaurochalinus
Brown-capped Redstart Myioborus brunniceps Photographed
Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca
Blue-and-yellow Tanager Thraupis bonariensis
Band-tailed Sierra-Finch Phrygilus alaudinus
Bolivian Warbling-Finch Poospiza boliviana Endemic
Rufous-sided Warbling-Finch Poospiza hypochondria
Cochabamba Mountain-Finch Poospiza garleppi Endemic Endangered Photographed
Ringed Warbling-Finch Poospiza torquata
Band-tailed Seedeater Catamenia analis
Gray-bellied Flowerpiercer Diglossa carbonaria Endemic
Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Golden-billed Saltator Saltator aurantiirostris Photographed
Rufous-bellied Saltator Saltator rufiventris Near-threatened
Bay-winged Cowbird Molothrus badius
Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis
Bolivian Blackbird Agelaioides oreopsar Endemic Photographed
Hooded Siskin Carduelis magellanica
House Sparrow Passer domesticus Introduced species


8. Laguna Alatay, Cochabamba City, Cochabamba      4th January, 2006

   This large lake within the city of Cochabamba has a few water birds including ducks, grebes and ibis. One side had more reed beds than the other. A taxi here costs just Bs4 from the centre of Cochabamba.
I saw 25 species including 2 lifers

White-tufted Grebe Rollandia rolland
Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Puna Ibis Plegadis ridgwayi
Fulvous Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna bicolor
Yellow-billed Pintail Anas georgica
White-cheeked Pintail Anas bahamensis
Andean Duck Oxyura ferruginea
Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
Slate-colored Coot Fulica ardesiaca Photographed
Greater Yellowlegs Tringa melanoleuca
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Introduced species
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata
Picui Ground-Dove Columbina picui
Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus
Wren-like Rushbird Phleocryptes melanops
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Creamy-bellied Thrush Turdus amaurochalinus
Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca
Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola
Yellow-winged Blackbird Agelasticus thilius
Bay-winged Cowbird Molothrus badius
Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis
Hooded Siskin Carduelis magellanica
House Sparrow Passer domesticus Introduced species


9. Corani km72 (between Villa Tunari & Cochabamba), Cochabamba       5th-6th January, 2006

   This spot on the new highway between Cochabamba to Villa Tunari is easily reached by public transport. One can either take a Villa Tunari bus from Oquenda and 9 de Abril in Cochabamba (2 hours, Bs12) or a communal taxi to Colomi and another to Corani Pampa from there (an hour and a half, Bs 6 + 6). The advantage is that taxis leave earlier (eg. 5am) rather than than 7am for the bus. The bus driver dropped me at the turn-off for the Corani Hydroelectric dam at km 77.4. This road actually turned out to have good birding (Plushcap, Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager and Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant) but I was turned back by road-workers after a while. The walk back along the main road also had good birds including Andean Guans perching near the road, Black-and-blue Tanager and Pearled Treerunner. There are several trails running from this stretch of road which may be worth exploring. The best spot to get off though is at the unmarked km72. There is a turn (on the left coming from Cochabamba) downhill to Tablas Montes and a big sign here reading 'Locoto'. The track winds downhill from here and had many good birds including Olivaceous Siskin, Bolivian Tyrannulet, Barred Fruiteater and Blue-winged Mountain Tanager. The best place though is a inconspicuous track leading from the other side of the road about 50m back towards Cochabamba. This leads to a dead end finally but has amazing birding. Birds seen here included Black-throated Thistletail, 4 species of flowerpiercer, Long-tailed Sylph, Collared Inca, Black-hooded Sunbeam, Light-crowned Spinetail, Yellow-billed Cacique and Stripe-headed Woodquail heard. This area is firly high altitude and can have a lot of rain and mist.
I saw 45 species including 34 lifers

Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris
Andean Guan Penelope montagnii Possible seen
Stripe-faced Wood-Quail Odontophorus balliviani Heard only
Picui Ground-Dove Columbina picui Photographed
Scaly-naped Parrot Amazona mercenaria
Black-hooded Sunbeam Aglaeactis pamela Endemic Photographed
Collared Inca Coeligena sp Possible seen
Tyrian Metaltail Metallura tyrianthina
Long-tailed Sylph Aglaiocercus kingi Photographed
Golden-olive Woodpecker Piculus rubiginosus Possible seen
Crimson-mantled Woodpecker Piculus rivolii
Azara's Spinetail Synallaxis azarae Possible seen
Light-crowned Spinetail Cranioleuca albiceps
Black-throated Thistletail Schizoeaca harterti Endemic
Pearled Treerunner Margarornis squamiger Photographed
Undulated Antpitta Grallaria squamigera Heard only
Rufous-faced Antpitta Grallaria erythrotis Endemic Heard only
Barred Fruiteater Pipreola arcuata
White-crested Elaenia Elaenia albiceps
Bolivian Tyrannulet Zimmerius bolivianus
Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca rufipectoralis Photographed
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Mountain Wren Troglodytes solstitialis
Great Thrush Turdus fuscater Photographed
Glossy-black Thrush Turdus serranus
Spectacled Redstart Myioborus melanocephalus Photographed
Pale-legged Warbler Basileuterus signatus Possible seen
Citrine Warbler Basileuterus luteoviridis
Common Bush-Tanager Chlorospingus ophthalmicus
Rust-and-yellow Tanager Thlypopsis ruficeps
Slaty Tanager Creurgops dentata Possible seen
Blue-capped Tanager Thraupis cyanocephala
Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus igniventris Photographed
Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus somptuosus
Fawn-breasted Tanager Pipraeidea melanonota
Blue-and-black Tanager Tangara vassorii
Plush-capped Finch Catamblyrhynchus diadema
Rusty Flowerpiercer Diglossa sittoides
Gray-bellied Flowerpiercer Diglossa carbonaria Endemic
Bluish Flowerpiercer Diglossopis caerulescens Possible seen
Masked Flowerpiercer Diglossopis cyanea
Bolivian Brush-Finch Atlapetes rufinucha Endemic
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Yellow-billed Cacique Amblycercus holosericeus
Olivaceous Siskin Carduelis olivacea


10. Perereta (near Pe�a Colorado), Cochabamba       8th-9th January, 2006

   This is a beautiful place and one of the best spots to see the endangered endemic Red-fronted Macaw which nest on a cliff near the village. There is nowhere to stay at the moment although Armonia are building a lodge in San Carlos just accross the river from the cliffs. Contact them for details. Av. Lomas de Arena 400, Santa Cruz. Tel 3568808; or A.Bennett Hennessey on 3563636; or Sebastian Herzog on 3701863 [email protected] Buses from Santa Cruz to Sucre pass the village but bus companies may try and charge the full fare. Alternatively buses leave Santa Cruz (3rd Anillo) and Cochabamba (6 de Agosto and Basientos) for Aiquile. I caught a bus from Cochabamba at 1pm arriving in Aiquile at 7pm (Bs15). The bus from Sucre to Santa Cruz passes Aiquile at 9pm and can drop you at Perereta late at night (Bs5-10). It may also be possible to camp. I stayed at the house of Martin Marcias whose wife also has a shop. Trucks pass by in the morning and can take you to Saipina from where there is a bus to Comarapa. Aswell as Red-fronted Macaws, Mitred and Cliff Parakeets also nest in the cliffs and Blue-fronted Parrots were also seen at the base of the cliffs. I saw White-fronted Woodpecker, Grey-crested Finch and Crowned Slaty Flycatcher in cactus scrub behind the houses. Also Purple Martin, Bolivian Blackbird and Cliff Flycatcher on the way to the cliffs.
I saw 35 species including 4 lifers

Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata
Picui Ground-Dove Columbina picui
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi
Red-fronted Macaw Ara rubrogenys Endemic Endangered Photographed
Mitred Parakeet Aratinga mitrata Photographed
Cliff Parakeet Myiopsitta luchsi Endemic Photographed
Yellow-chevroned Parakeet Brotogeris chiriri
Blue-fronted Parrot Amazona aestiva
Andean Swift Aeronautes andecolus
Speckled Hummingbird Adelomyia melanogenys Possibly seen Photographed
White-fronted Woodpecker Melanerpes cactorum Photographed
Narrow-billed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes angustirostris
White-tipped Plantcutter Phytotoma rutila Photographed
White-crested Elaenia Elaenia albiceps
Greater Wagtail-Tyrant Stigmatura budytoides
Cliff Flycatcher Hirundinea ferruginea Photographed
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus
Crowned Slaty Flycatcher Griseotyrannus aurantioatrocristatus Photographed
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Purple Martin Progne subis Photographed
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
House Wren Troglodytes aedon Photographed
Creamy-bellied Thrush Turdus amaurochalinus
Red-eyed Vireo Vireo olivaceus
Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca
Blue-and-yellow Tanager Thraupis bonariensis
Gray-crested Finch Lophospingus griseocristatus Photographed
Ringed Warbling-Finch Poospiza torquata
Dull-colored Grassquit Tiaris obscura
Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola Photographed
Golden-billed Saltator Saltator aurantiirostris
Bolivian Blackbird Agelaioides oreopsar Endemic
House Sparrow Passer domesticus Introduced species


11. Tambo (near Comarapa), Santa Cruz      10th & 12th January, 2006

   Tambo is easily reached from Comarapa (1,875m) where there are a number of places to stay and eat. I stayed at the Hotel Central (Bs20 for a single). Catch a communal taxi leaving from the gas station towards San Isidro (20km away) and get off at Tambo after about 16km. Turn left and walk along the edge of the school and past some houses before reaching some good cactus scrub n the hill to your left. I saw Spot-backed Puffbird and White-tailed kite here. You'll soon arrive at a small cow-farm (formerly a pig farm) where there is a fork. The right fork leads to a river which you can walk along. Bolivian Earthcreeper has been seen in the 'dry riverbed' here but the river was anything but dry. The left fork goes much further through a variety of habitats coming to a river which you would have to wade through to continue. This valley is quite birdy. Before reaching here a stream crosses the road and Saffron-billed Sparrow was seen here. It appears the Bolivian endemic Earthcreeper wasn't here as I failed to see it in 2 days of searching and found it easily elsewhere. Walking along the highway from the turn-off to Tambo back towards Comarapa was productive. I saw Stripe-crowned Spinetail, Ultramarine Grosbeak, Baw-winged Hawk and many Scaly-naped Parrots (early in the morning). Communal taxis also leave the market to Pulquina Arriba up a turning 3-4km before Tambo. A track apparently continues up past a lake and into the Amboro NP.
I saw 71 species including 6 lifers

Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
White-tailed Kite Elanus leucurus Photographed
Harris's Hawk Parabuteo unicinctus
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Introduced species
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata
Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti Possibly seen
Picui Ground-Dove Columbina picui
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi Heard only
White-faced Dove Leptotila megalura
Blue-crowned Parakeet Aratinga acuticaudata Possibly seen Photographed
Gray-hooded Parakeet Psilopsiagon aymara
Yellow-chevroned Parakeet Brotogeris chiriri
Scaly-naped Parrot Amazona mercenaria Possibly seen
Guira Cuckoo Guira guira
White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris
Andean Swift Aeronautes andecolus
Glittering-bellied Emerald Chlorostilbon aureoventris
White-bellied Hummingbird Leucippus chionogaster Seen near Comarapa
Speckled Hummingbird Adelomyia melanogenys Photographed?
Spot-backed Puffbird Nystalus maculatus Photographed
White-fronted Woodpecker Melanerpes cactorum
Green-barred Woodpecker Colaptes melanochloros Photographed
Cream-backed Woodpecker Campephilus leucopogon
Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus
Azara's Spinetail Synallaxis azarae
Stripe-crowned Spinetail Cranioleuca pyrrhophia
Spot-breasted Thornbird Phacellodomus maculipectus Possibly seen near Comarapa
Narrow-billed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes angustirostris
Variable Antshrike Thamnophilus caerulescens Photographed
White-tipped Plantcutter Phytotoma rutila Photographed
White-crested Elaenia Elaenia albiceps
White-bellied Tyrannulet Serpophaga munda Possibly seen Photographed
Southern Scrub-Flycatcher Sublegatus modestus Possibly seen
Greater Wagtail-Tyrant Stigmatura budytoides Photographed
Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant Hemitriccus margaritaceiventer
Bran-colored Flycatcher Myiophobus fasciatus
Smoke-colored Pewee Contopus fumigatus Possibly seen
Yellow-browed Tyrant Satrapa icterophrys
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus
Crowned Slaty Flycatcher Griseotyrannus aurantioatrocristatus
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Swainson's Thrush Catharus ustulatus
Chiguanco Thrush Turdus chiguanco
Rufous-bellied Thrush Turdus rufiventris Photographed
Creamy-bellied Thrush Turdus amaurochalinus
Masked Gnatcatcher Polioptila dumicola
Red-eyed Vireo Vireo olivaceus
Masked Yellowthroat Geothlypis aequinoctialis Seen near Comarapa
Black-faced Tanager Schistochlamys melanopis Possibly seen
Hepatic Tanager Piranga flava Photographed
Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca
Blue-and-yellow Tanager Thraupis bonariensis Photographed
Gray-crested Finch Lophospingus griseocristatus
Black-and-rufous Warbling-Finch Poospiza nigrorufa Seen near Comarapa
Ringed Warbling-Finch Poospiza torquata
Black-capped Warbling-Finch Poospiza melanoleuca Photographed
Double-collared Seedeater Sporophila caerulescens Photographed
Band-tailed Seedeater Catamenia analis Seen near Comarapa
Dull-colored Grassquit Tiaris obscura Photographed
Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola Photographed
Saffron-billed Sparrow Arremon flavirostris
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Golden-billed Saltator Saltator aurantiirostris Photographed
Black-backed Grosbeak Pheucticus aureoventris Photographed
Ultramarine Grosbeak Cyanocompsa brissonii
Bay-winged Cowbird Molothrus badius Photographed
Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis Photographed
Hooded Siskin Carduelis magellanica
House Sparrow Passer domesticus Introduced species


12. Siberia, Santa Cruz      11th January, 2006

   Siberia (3,480m) is a small town between Comarapa and Pojo on the Old Highway between Santa Cruz and Cochabamba. Below it towards Comarapa is some good high-elevation Yungas Forest. It is difficult to reach by public transport as buses to Cochabamba from Comarapa only leave in the evening. There is no accomodation in Siberia and no restaurant although there are a couple of very small shops selling cookies and things. Some trucks leave Comarapa in the morning and it is possible to get a ride in the back (Bs 5). I got a ride at about 7am in a truck full of chicken shit. Several trucks pass in the afternoon coming back to Comarapa so getting back is not a problem. It's best to wait by the Siberia/Torresillas taxi stand and question any truck passing. Alternatively a taxi can be hired privately which may be as much as Bs 90. Once in Siberia, start walking back towards Comarapa. Birding is good from the start, with this top area having Red-crested Cotinga, White-browed Conebill and Andean Lapwing aswell as many hummingbirds. I saw the endemic Black-throated Thistletail a little further down by an old km 280 (from Santa Cruz) stone. Any forest below this can be good. There are some spectacular views when it is clear.
I saw 42 species including 6 lifers

Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Hook-billed Kite Chondrohierax uncinatus Photographed
Swallow-tailed Kite Elanoides forficatus Photographed
Rufous-thighed Hawk Accipiter erythronemius Photographed
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris
Mountain Caracara Phalcoboenus megalopterus Photographed
Stripe-faced Wood-Quail Odontophorus balliviani Possibly heard
Andean Lapwing Vanellus resplendens
Band-tailed Pigeon Patagioenas fasciata
Plumbeous Pigeon Patagioenas plumbea Possibly seen
Black-winged Parrot Hapalopsittaca melanotis Possibly seen
Scaly-naped Parrot Amazona mercenaria Possibly seen
Andean Swift Aeronautes andecolus
Sparkling Violet-ear Colibri coruscans
Black-hooded Sunbeam Aglaeactis pamela Endemic Possibly seen
Tyrian Metaltail Metallura tyrianthina
Azara's Spinetail Synallaxis azarae
Black-throated Thistletail Schizoeaca harterti Endemic Photographed
Pearled Treerunner Margarornis squamiger
Montane Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes lacrymiger
Variable Antshrike Thamnophilus caerulescens
Rufous-faced Antpitta Grallaria erythrotis Endemic Heard only
Red-crested Cotinga Ampelion rubrocristata Photographed
White-crested Elaenia Elaenia albiceps
Tawny-rumped Tyrannulet Phyllomyias uropygialis
Cinnamon Flycatcher Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea
Andean Tyrant Knipolegus signatus
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Mountain Wren Troglodytes solstitialis
Great Thrush Turdus fuscater
Glossy-black Thrush Turdus serranus
White-browed Conebill Conirostrum ferrugineiventre
Common Bush-Tanager Chlorospingus ophthalmicus
Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus igniventris
Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus somptuosus
Rusty Flowerpiercer Diglossa sittoides
Gray-bellied Flowerpiercer Diglossa carbonaria Endemic
Masked Flowerpiercer Diglossopis cyanea
Bolivian Brush-Finch Atlapetes rufinucha Endemic
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Hooded Siskin Carduelis magellanica Possibly seen


13. Pojo area, Cochabamba       13th January, 2006

   Pojo is a town between Comarapa and Cochabamba (on the old highway) and can be reached by buses from either. A bus leaves from Hotel Central in Comarapa at 7pm for Cochabamba and reaches Pojo Cruce in under 3 hours. From there it is 4km down into the valley and free transport met our bus. A bus leaves Cochabamba at about midday from near 6 de Agosto and Republica. Buses leave from the plaza in Pojo for Cochabamba at 5pm amd midnight and take about 6 hours. There are seemingly 2 places to stay in Pojo. I stayed at 'La Pension Rincon de Poje�ito' 1 block from the plaza with a single for Bs 15. Taxis leave the plaza and can drop you at Pojo Cruce at the top of the hill (Bs3). From there (km194) start walking in the direction on Cochabamba. The first stretch was very productive. After about 500m I saw Olive-crowned Crescent-chest calling in the morning and also several Bolivian Earthcreepers (which I missed at Tambo) hopping up bare earth banks by the side of the road. 3km further down is a small settlement where there also seems to be a place to stay. The km markers are confusing as they are from either direction and old and new ones seem to differ. Cross a bridge and continue on up the hill passing through another small settlement and then into good habitat. This road continues winding up and up and about 10km from Pojo Cruce you will come to a green marker signed 'SNC Km317' which may correspond to a point 78 km from Comarapa for Wedge-tailed Hillstar. I saw a female of this endemic hummer just past the post perched in tree. I also saw Andean Tinamou cross the road here and heard many. Shortly after this the road curves round the valley giving a spectacular view from where I saw Andean Condor soaring. The road goes on and is not really a comfortable walking distance. It reaches the town of La Habana after which I saw Bolivian Warbling-Finch but little else. Several kms past the km317 sign the road curves into a gorge where there was some Polylepis that may be worth exploring.
I saw 42 species including 3 lifers

Andean Tinamou Nothoprocta pentlandii
Andean Condor Vultur gryphus Near-threatened Photographed
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata
Bare-faced Ground-Dove Metriopelia ceciliae Possibly seen
Mitred Parakeet Aratinga mitrata Heard only
Gray-hooded Parakeet Psilopsiagon aymara Photographed
Andean Swift Aeronautes andecolus
Sparkling Violet-ear Colibri coruscans
White-bellied Hummingbird Leucippus chionogaster
Speckled Hummingbird Adelomyia melanogenys
Wedge-tailed Hillstar Oreotrochilus adela Endemic Near-threatened
Red-tailed Comet Sappho sparganura Photographed
Spot-backed Puffbird Nystalus maculatus
Bolivian Earthcreeper Ochetorhynchus harterti Endemic Photographed
Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus
Azara's Spinetail Synallaxis azarae
Creamy-breasted Canastero Asthenes dorbignyi Photographed
Olive-crowned Crescent-chest Melanopareia maximiliani Photographed
White-tipped Plantcutter Phytotoma rutila
White-crested Elaenia Elaenia albiceps
Bran-colored Flycatcher Myiophobus fasciatus
Cliff Flycatcher Hirundinea ferruginea
White-winged Black-Tyrant Knipolegus aterrimus
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Chiguanco Thrush Turdus chiguanco Photographed
Brown-capped Redstart Myioborus brunniceps
Hepatic Tanager Piranga flava
Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca
Bolivian Warbling-Finch Poospiza boliviana Endemic
Rufous-sided Warbling-Finch Poospiza hypochondria
Ringed Warbling-Finch Poospiza torquata
Band-tailed Seedeater Catamenia analis
Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola
Great Pampa-Finch Embernagra platensis
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Golden-billed Saltator Saltator aurantiirostris
Black-backed Grosbeak Pheucticus aureoventris
Bay-winged Cowbird Molothrus badius
Hooded Siskin Carduelis magellanica Photographed
House Sparrow Passer domesticus Introduced species


14. Villa Tunari, Cochabamba       15th-16th January, 2006

   Villa Tunari is a popular tourist town on the new highway between Santa Cruz and Cochabamba. It is easily reached from either. Buses from Cochabamba leave from near the corner of Oquenda and 9 de Abril. It takes 4-5 hours (depending on the state of the road) and costs Bs 13. There are many places to stay and eat in town. The Guacharo entrance to the Carrasco National Park is fairly easy to reach. Take a municipal taxi from outside the market on the main road to Paractito (Bs3) a few kms along the road towards Cochabamba. From here take another communal taxi to San Rafael along the old road (Bs3). From the small village of San Rafael, it is about another short walk to a junction. Turn left here, cross over the bridge and walk along the river to the park entrance. It is signed 'Guacharos', the local name for the Oilbird which it is possible to see in caves inside the park. One must enter with a guide. I didn't bother as I had already seen it in Amboro NP. Before getting to the entrance, there is a small trail that cuts up the hill through forest. This is worth exploring and had Chestnut-tailed Antbird. Back at the junction, carry straight on along the road (This is the old Cochambamba-Chapare road). It passes by some patches of secondary forest which had Green Honeycreeper, Flammulated Bamboo-Tyrant and Rufous-winged Antwren. After a few kms you come to a pink school on the left-hand side. You can continue straight along to the small town of Palmar above which Ashyv Antwren has been seen. Bolivian Recurvebill has also been seen along this road. I turned left at the school. The track continues up and up passing through some good birding areas. I saw Occelated Woodcreeper, Thick-billed Euphonia and Smoke-coloured Pewee in a clearing plus Grey-bellied Sabrewing and Moustached Wren on the way up. The trail appears to go on and on. The good birding was spoilt by the large number of mosquitos present. The dry season might be more pleasant.
I saw 52 species including 3 lifers

Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Greater Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes melambrotus
Hook-billed Kite Chondrohierax uncinatus
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris
Speckled Chachalaca Ortalis guttata
Plumbeous Pigeon Patagioenas plumbea
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi Heard only
Gray-fronted Dove Leptotila rufaxilla Heard only
Ruddy Quail-Dove Geotrygon montana Heard only
White-eyed Parakeet Aratinga leucophthalmus
Blue-winged Parrotlet Forpus xanthopterygius
Yellow-chevroned Parakeet Brotogeris chiriri
Cobalt-winged Parakeet Brotogeris cyanoptera
Blue-headed Parrot Pionus menstruus
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
Gray-breasted Sabrewing Campylopterus largipennis Possibly seen
Blue-tailed Emerald Chlorostilbon mellisugus Possibly seen
Lettered Aracari Pteroglossus inscriptus
Chestnut-eared Aracari Pteroglossus castanotis
Red-billed Toucan Ramphastos tucanus
Ocellated Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus ocellatus
Barred Antshrike Thamnophilus doliatus Heard only
Rufous-winged Antwren Herpsilochmus rufimarginatus
Southern Chestnut-tailed Antbird Myrmeciza hemimelaena
Flammulated Bamboo-Tyrant Hemitriccus flammulatus
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua
Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis
Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculatus
Variegated Flycatcher Empidonomus varius
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Eastern Kingbird Tyrannus tyrannus
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Thrush-like Wren Campylorhynchus turdinus
Moustached Wren Thryothorus genibarbis
Swainson's Thrush Catharus ustulatus
Black-billed Thrush Turdus ignobilis
Purplish Jay Cyanocorax cyanomelas
Tropical Parula Parula pitiayumi
Silver-beaked Tanager Ramphocelus carbo
Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus
Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum Possibly seen
Thick-billed Euphonia Euphonia laniirostris Photographed
Green Honeycreeper Chlorophanes spiza
Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina
Chestnut-bellied Seed-Finch Oryzoborus angolensis
Red-capped Cardinal Paroaria gularis
Yellow-browed Sparrow Ammodramus aurifrons
Yellow-rumped Cacique Cacicus cela
Crested Oropendola Psarocolius decumanus
Russet-backed Oropendola Psarocolius angustifrons
House Sparrow Passer domesticus Introduced species


15. Lake Uru-Uru, Oruro       20th January, 2006

   Ths is an incredible spot and well worth the effort. Oruro is a large city with many places to stay and eat. I stayed at the Residencial on Bolivar (sngle Bs20). In Wheatley, it said the lake was just 5 minutes drive from town. It was actually a gruelling 7km walk which at high altitude is no fun. Go South from the centre until you meet the highway, turn left here and go straight until you reach the train tracks. Look out for Black-winged and Bare-faced Ground-Doves. Either walk south along the tracks or along the road that runs parrallel. There are km marks along the tracks starting at 248. This road is drivable although a bit muddy and not very pretty along the first stretch through a rubbish dump. Renting a bicycle may also be an option. Also watch out for stray dogs (keep a rock handy). After a km or 2 the birding becomes good. There had been a lot of rain when I got there and much of the area along the train track and road was flooded and great for waders. Larger bodies of water after about 3-4km had Puna Flamingo and Andean Avocet. After the km252 marker there is a set of building foundations by the train track. I saw Mountain Parakeet, Giant Coot and Chilean Flamingo here. After this the road sank into the lake but maybe exposed at lower water level. I walked along the train tracks from here and there are small reedbeds on both sides holding Plumbeus Rail, Many-colored Rush-Tyrant, Wren-like Rushbird, Andean Duck and Yellow-winged Blackbird among others. After km 255 I finally found 4 Andean Flamingos easily distinguished from the more numerous Chilean Flamingos by their black flight feathers pretruding whilst standing, larger extent of black on the bill and more reddish on the front. Be careful of trains. None passed in the morning and the first came by at 1pm. There is enough room to stand by the side but it's probably better not to be near the tracks.
I saw 46 species including 5 lifers

White-tufted Grebe Rollandia rolland Photographed
Great Egret Ardea alba
Snowy Egret Egretta thula
Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax Photographed
Puna Ibis Plegadis ridgwayi
Chilean Flamingo Phoenicopterus chilensis Near-threatened Photographed
Andean Flamingo Phoenicopterus andinus Vulnerable Photographed
Puna Flamingo Phoenicopterus jamesi Near-threatened Photographed
Speckled Teal Anas flavirostris Photographed
Crested Duck Anas specularioides
Yellow-billed Pintail Anas georgica Photographed
Puna Teal Anas puna Photographed
Cinnamon Teal Anas cyanoptera Photographed
Andean Duck Oxyura ferruginea Photographed
Mountain Caracara Phalcoboenus megalopterus
Plumbeous Rail Pardirallus sanguinolentus
Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
Slate-colored Coot Fulica ardesiaca
Giant Coot Fulica gigantea Photographed
White-backed Stilt Himantopus melanurus Photographed
Andean Avocet Recurvirostra andina
Andean Lapwing Vanellus resplendens Photographed
American Golden-Plover Pluvialis dominica Photographed
Puna Plover Charadrius alticola
Greater Yellowlegs Tringa melanoleuca
Lesser Yellowlegs Tringa flavipes
Least Sandpiper Calidris minutilla Possibly seen
Baird's Sandpiper Calidris bairdii
Wilson's Phalarope Phalaropus tricolor Photographed
Andean Gull Larus serranus
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Introduced species
Bare-faced Ground-Dove Metriopelia ceciliae Photographed
Black-winged Ground-Dove Metriopelia melanoptera
Mountain Parakeet Psilopsiagon aurifrons Photographed
Common Miner Geositta cunicularia
Puna Miner Geositta punensis
Wren-like Rushbird Phleocryptes melanops
Many-colored Rush-Tyrant Tachuris rubrigastra
Andean Negrito Lessonia oreas Photographed
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Andean Swallow Haplochelidon andecola
Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch Phrygilus plebejus Photographed
Bright-rumped Yellow-Finch Sicalis uropygialis Photographed
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Hooded Siskin Carduelis magellanica Photographed


16. Pongo, La Paz       January, 2006

   Pongo is easily reached from central La Paz. Take any trufi or micro to Villa Fatima and from there take a Micro or bus towards Coroico or Chulumani. Asked to be let off at Pongo, about an hour from Villa Fatima (7 Bs). There is a row of small restaurants near Pongo along the highway. Get off here. Back track along the road until you see a stream/waterfall coming down the side of the hill. To the left of this (facing the hill) is an indistinct track. Climb this to the top where there is a small pond made by a little dam. Walk along the stream above here and cross over where possible. Your aim is to get to the top of the huge 2nd waterfall. A direct ascent is a bit steep so look to your right and walk up towards a track which runs round the side of the valley to the top. Once on top, walk straight up the hill to the start of the Polylepis trees. They are very sparse and interspersed with boulders. Birds are thin on the ground here and the weather can be aweful. Scribble-tailed Canastero can be seen around the edges and lower down. Line-fronted Canastero in Polylepis right at the top adn Puna Tapacula between boulders. The main target was the Ash-breasted Tit-Tyrant. I missed this on my 1st trip but found a group on a 3rd level and my second trip. Instead of walking up to the Polylepis from the top of the second waterfall, walk along the right side of the stream. Another waterfall is visible to you left and a small stream comes down on the right. Follow the stream up, crossing where necessary to the 3rd level where there is a very small patch of Polylepis. I also saw Giant Conebill here.
I saw 17 species including 10 lifers

Torrent Duck Merganetta armata
Mountain Caracara Phalcoboenus megalopterus
Andean Gull Larus serranus
Andean Swift Aeronautes andecolus Heard only
Olivaceous Thornbill Chalcostigma olivaceum Photographed
Bar-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes fuscus Photographed
Streak-throated Canastero Asthenes humilis Possibly seen
Scribble-tailed Canastero Asthenes maculicauda
Line-fronted Canastero Asthenes urubambensis Near-threatened
Puna Tapaculo Scytalopus simonsi Photographed
Ash-breasted Tit-Tyrant Anairetes alpinus Endangered Photographed
Cinereous Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola cinereus Possibly seen
White-browed Conebill Conirostrum ferrugineiventre Photographed
Giant Conebill Oreomanes fraseri Near-threatened Photographed
Black-hooded Sierra-Finch Phrygilus atriceps Seen below La Cumbre pass
Plain-colored Seedeater Catamenia inornata Photographed
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis Photographed


17. Sorata, La Paz       January, 2006

   Sorata is easily reached from La Paz in 4-5 hours depending on the road. Two bus companies run almost hourly services to Sorata from the Cementario area of La Paz. There is plenty of cheap accomodation in Sorata. I stayed at Panchita's on the plaza (Bs15 for a single). The reason for visiting the area was to try and find the endemic Berlepsch's Canastero which is apparently easy to find in Eucalyptus groves around town. I failed to find it in 2 full days of searching a variety of habitats and elevations around town and over 10km back out of town towards La Paz. This leads me to believe that there is some seasonal movement. There were some worthwhile birds though. Walking about 10 minutes out of town towards La Paz there is a sharp bend in the road where a stream comes down. This was a good spot for Cinereous Conebill, Brown-capped Tit-Spinetail, Azara's Spinetail and White-winged Black-Tyrant. I saw Green-tailed Train-bearer and Yellow-bellied Siskin a little further along this road. Crossing the main river the road snakes up the valley. I saw Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant perched in a Eucalyptus above the small settlement of Atahuallpani and a pair of Aplomado Falcons in fields at the top of the valley (about 10km from town). From here the habitat changes into more open Puna.
I saw 32 species including 5 lifers

Andean Tinamou Nothoprocta pentlandii Heard only
Speckled Teal Anas flavirostris Seen from bus back to La Paz
Mountain Caracara Phalcoboenus megalopterus
American Kestrel Falco sparverius
Aplomado Falcon Falco femoralis
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Introduced species
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata Photographed
Picui Ground-Dove Columbina picui
Andean Swift Aeronautes andecolus Heard only
Sparkling Violet-ear Colibri coruscans
White-bellied Hummingbird Leucippus chionogaster Photographed
Green-tailed Trainbearer Lesbia nuna Photographed
Bar-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes fuscus
Brown-capped Tit-Spinetail Leptasthenura fuliginiceps
Azara's Spinetail Synallaxis azarae
White-crested Elaenia Elaenia albiceps
Tufted Tit-Tyrant Anairetes parulus
Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant Myiotheretes striaticollis
White-winged Black-Tyrant Knipolegus aterrimus Photographed
Purple Martin Progne subis
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Chiguanco Thrush Turdus chiguanco Photographed
Cinereous Conebill Conirostrum cinereum
Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca
Blue-and-yellow Tanager Thraupis bonariensis
Band-tailed Seedeater Catamenia analis
Black-throated Flowerpiercer Diglossa brunneiventris Seen from bus back to La Paz
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Golden-billed Saltator Saltator aurantiirostris Photographed
Black-backed Grosbeak Pheucticus aureoventris Photographed
Yellow-bellied Siskin Carduelis xanthogastra Photographed


18. Huajata lake shore, La Paz       January, 2006

   The Huatajata lake shore is easily accessed in under 2 hours from La Paz (Bs6). Micros leave the cementerio area. Asked to be dropped off at the Inca Utama Hotel. Walk down one of the many of the drive-ways to the lake shore near here and scan the water for Short-winged Grebes. I found they were very easy to spot in this area. Peruvian Sierra-Finch amd Black Siskin were common in the gardens by the lake shore. Any stretch of lake shore or flooded field on the way can be good for water birds. Andean Coots, Andean Gulls and Puna Ibis are common in the area.
I saw 17 species including 3 lifers

White-tufted Grebe Rollandia rolland
Short-winged Grebe Rollandia microptera Endangered Photographed
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Puna Ibis Plegadis ridgwayi
Speckled Teal Anas flavirostris Seen between Sorata and Huatajata
Puna Teal Anas puna
Andean Duck Oxyura ferruginea
Aplomado Falcon Falco femoralis Seen in Huarina
Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus Seen between Sorata and Huatajata
Slate-colored Coot Fulica ardesiaca
Andean Lapwing Vanellus resplendens Seen between Sorata and Huatajata
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Chiguanco Thrush Turdus chiguanco
Peruvian Sierra-Finch Phrygilus punensis Photographed
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis Photographed
Black Siskin Carduelis atrata Photographed


19. Inquisivi, La Paz       27th-29th January, 2006

   Direct buses leave the main terminal in La Paz about twice a day. It takes 6-7 hours and costs Bs23-24. One bus leaves at 6am and the other around midday. Buy tickets from window number 31. Call Louis on 72542520 for bus information. Returning to La Paz, buses leave the plaza in Inquisivi at 1pm or at 7 and 9pm. There is accomodation in Inquisivi. Simply ask where when you arrive. I stayed at a place for Bs10 (Bs3 extra for a hot shower). A couple of simple restaurants on the plaze serve lunch and dinner (Bs5). The main reason for visiting Inquisivi was to see the endangered endemic Bolivian Spinetail. A road winds down from town (2,500m) to a river below (2,150m). A path goes straight down crossing the road many times. Walk downhill from the plaza and turn left where the path hits the road. You will pass a hospital on your left. The bushes near here have Yellow-bellied Siskin. Follow the road round the first bend and take the first (short-cut) path on your left. There are 17 of these short cuts (some long, some very short) before you get to the river. The first ones pass through Eucalyptus plantations where I saw Green-cheeked Parakeets (a new race with yellow in the wing). After that, there is low scrub where I saw Band-tailed Seedeater and White-wionged Black-Tyrant. More than half way down the dry forest starts although the upper part is more disturbed and cutting trees for charcoal continues. The 11th (or 7th from the bottom) shortcut is long and has good birding. I saw Bolivian Spinetail about halfway down this path calling before 7 in the morning. Also Sooty-fronted Spinetail, Bran-coloured Flycatcher and Tropical Parula. The 13th (or 5th from the bottom) path is good for hummers including White-bellied Woodstar. The best area for the Bolivian Spinetail was the bottom (17th) shortcut. Mitred Parakeets and Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle were seen flying in the valley on the way down. It takes about 1 hour to walk to the bottom and walking back up is longer and very tiring. A bus came back up at 9:45am or camping at the bottom is also possible. Interesting birding areas occur aboved town but I didn't have time to visit them.
I saw 52 species including 3 lifers

Darwin's Nothura Nothura darwinii Possibly seen
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle Geranoaetus melanoleucus
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris Heard only
American Kestrel Falco sparverius Seen between La Paz and Inquisivi
Andean Lapwing Vanellus resplendens Heard only
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Introduced species
Band-tailed Pigeon Patagioenas fasciata
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata
Picui Ground-Dove Columbina picui
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi Possibly seen
Mitred Parakeet Aratinga mitrata
Green-cheeked Parakeet Pyrrhura molinae
Green Violet-ear Colibri thalassinus
Blue-tailed Emerald Chlorostilbon mellisugus Photographed
Fork-tailed Woodnymph Thalurania furcata Possibly seen
White-bellied Hummingbird Leucippus chionogaster
Speckled Hummingbird Adelomyia melanogenys Possibly seen
Tyrian Metaltail Metallura tyrianthina Possibly seen Photographed?
White-bellied Woodstar Chaetocercus mulsant Possibly seen
Andean Flicker Colaptes rupicola Seen between La Paz and Inquisivi
Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus
Sooty-fronted Spinetail Synallaxis frontalis
Bolivian Spinetail Cranioleuca henricae Endemic Endangered Photographed
Olive-crowned Crescent-chest Melanopareia maximiliani Heard only
Mouse-colored Tyrannulet Phaeomyias murina Possibly seen
White-bellied Tyrannulet Serpophaga munda Possibly seen
Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant Hemitriccus margaritaceiventer
Bran-colored Flycatcher Myiophobus fasciatus
Smoke-colored Pewee Contopus fumigatus Photographed
Black Phoebe Sayornis nigricans
White-winged Black-Tyrant Knipolegus aterrimus
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca Photographed
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Chiguanco Thrush Turdus chiguanco
Creamy-bellied Thrush Turdus amaurochalinus Photographed
Red-eyed Vireo Vireo olivaceus
Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis Photographed
Tropical Parula Parula pitiayumi Photographed
Brown-capped Redstart Myioborus brunniceps
Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca
Black-and-rufous Warbling-Finch Poospiza nigrorufa
Ringed Warbling-Finch Poospiza torquata Photographed
Double-collared Seedeater Sporophila caerulescens Photographed
Band-tailed Seedeater Catamenia analis
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Golden-billed Saltator Saltator aurantiirostris
Black-backed Grosbeak Pheucticus aureoventris Photographed
Bay-winged Cowbird Molothrus badius
Dusky-green Oropendola Psarocolius atrovirens Photographed
Yellow-bellied Siskin Carduelis xanthogastra Photographed
House Sparrow Passer domesticus Introduced species


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