Sig Four-Star 40
Altech Tamecat
Hobbico Big Stick ARF
GP Li'l Poke
GWS Tiger Moth
SPAD coroplast (modified)
2-meter glider*
(*unknown model name...)
In the shop:
Sig Kadet Senior
Wing P-40 (short kit)
Gremlin
GP PT-60
combining Sig Kobra wing with "Rookie 20" fuselage
I am an opponent of the current trend to stick oversize engines on all aircraft.
1) Overpowering a model is potentially harmful to its structure.
2) The larger engines are heavier, and can actually detract from
flight performance more than they improve it.
3) It takes more skill to fly on the wing rather than on the prop.
4) "Unlimited vertical" is not necessary for good aerobatic
performance.
The "notorious" tail dragger problems tend to be pilot error or construction error.
1) slowly advance the throttle. If you bang the stick forward, the plane will torque-turn and be hard to handle.
2) check wheel placement. If too far forward, the plane will be "squirrly." If too far aft, the plane will nose-over when you apply throttle.
3) Check wheel alignment. Straight is best! Visible toe-in is excessive.
4) Make sure the wheels turn freely.
I experiment a lot with different construction techniques and materials.
I have found that in most cases, yellow carpenters glue is better for building light, strong aircraft than using CA. The yellow glues are less brittle and thus less prone to have joints fail from shock or vibration. The yellow glue sets fast enough that building time difference is negligible. I am known for buying a kit one day and flying the completed airplane the next, including such planes as the Sig Four-Star 40. CA is not needed for "speed building."
I am currently experimenting with covering foam core wings with paper grocery bag material. Initial results are promising. :) This is the Wing P-40, and it will be equipped with 90 deg rotating retracts. (a real pain to fit in this wing... don't try this at home.)