| To find the wall park just after the first speed limit sign after you cross the Tsaina River bridge. The is a faint trailer heading off to the right, follow this trail and cross a small foot bridge. Keep going until the top of the gorge is reached. This wall is in the sun most of the day and offers some great climbing. The best routes being "Jacobs Ladder" and "Ant Eater". There have been other routes done on this wall and there will probably be more in the future. In order to climb in the gorge you will have to rappel into it and climb out. If you are unable to climb out you might be able to bushwack out somewhere along its ends but that would be very unfun. Most parties hike along the top until the top anchor for "Ant Eater" is located and rappel from here. |
| "Face in the Crowd" 5.7 15m As you walk along the top of the wall a dead spruce tree is found at the cliff edge below this tree is the above route. Rappel to the base useing tree anchors but not the dead one. Pull the rope and climb up good holds past 3 bolts and 1 fix pin. |
| "Seams to Me" 5.6 15m This route is approx. 30 feet to the left of "Face in the Crowd". Climb up a thin seam till it splits into three, climb the middle seam, the others seams can be climbed and are of the same grade. Protect the route with micro-nuts, small tri-cams and few knifeblades. |
| "Ant Eater" 5.10b 30m Hike along the top of the gorge for approx 100 yds until the top turns into a knife edge. Scamble along this endge until a two bolt can be found on the face. Rappel to the base of the gorge from here with a 60 meter rope. Try to guy left as you rappel because the belay ledge is left of the route's start. Once on the ledge pull your rope. From the belay climb right past some crap (water, moss, lil' mud) until you are under the first bolt. Don't let the crap scare you off, it's not the bad and the climb is worth it. Once under the first bolt climb up on thin holds past three bolts and a fixed pin. Follow crack till it fades out, head left and find three more bolts to the top. Medium stoppers, Cams to 1.5" |
| "Jacobs Ladder" 5.10b 30m Same approach as per "Ant Eater". Once on the ledge look up and you will see a large block some ways up this route starts just right of it. Climb up a short outside corner till a thin crack can be reached using the crack for pro head toward the block. Climb past the block, as the wall steepens on a rollover find thn holds and bolts to the right. Follow bolts and fixed pins up, when a roof is encountered head right to exit. The roof has been climbed though. Small wires, cams and fixed gear. |
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| "Ant Eater" 5.10b |
| "Add link to Overview Pic" |
| Unamed Route 5.10c 30m This route is located to the right of "Ant Eater" rappel off of "Ant Eater" but head far right. Toward the bottom stop when you see a large spruce tree belay from the ledge here. Head up the wall past some bolts toward a crack. Head up crack until if fades out then follow bolts to the top. This route was put up in the summer of 2001 and still has some loose flakes on it that will clean up with time. It has probably only been climbed a couple of times. The flakes are small and are charcteristic of the entire wall. Very thin and light like crackers. |
| River Side Boulder Some moderate boulder problems have been on a boulder face near the edge of the river, right of "Jacobs Ladder" |
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