| Climbing has been taking place in the Valdez Rock quarry for many years. I do not have all the routes as many have not been repeated or recorded in any manner. The routes below are some of the more recent or popular routes. To find this wall drive down Airport Road until you reach an earthen barrier at the end of the road and you are there. Blasting activity takes place sometimes durening the summer, climbing is not a good idea during these times. As a result of this blasting, routes have been lost in the past. Hopefully this will not happen again. One final word, the Rock Quarry is "alive" and one should climb with caution here as new rocks of considerable size are found at the base of the wall from time to time. |
| "Jam Crack" 5.8 25m This is an area classic and sees quite a few ascents for Valdez. It is crack route that is naturally protected. The crack ranges from fingers to hands. The route is located across from the barrier to the right. Rappell from Chain anchor. |
| "Crack Jam" 5.9 25m This route is located to the left of "Jam Crack" and shares the same chain anchor. Start by climbing up some low angle rock with some loose debris on it. Then start up a crack in a left hand corner until you arrive under a roof. Then exit left under the roof useing face hold. The crux is the last few moves after the roof to reach the chains. |
| "Rotten Varmit" 5.8 35m This route is located farther down the quarry toward the lake, approx. 400 feet right from "Jam Crack" and is named for a dead marmot that was found at the base. Start with a hand crack in a small roof, this is the crux. Climb the crack until pin /bolt belay is reached approx. 25 feet up. Belay here as a first pitch or continue up. Move right onto the face and climb bolt line to the top, Rappel from the tree with a single rope to bolt/pin anchor or use double ropes. |
| "Dirty Rotten Varmit" 5.8 35m This route was an older route in the quarry and may not even be called this but for reference purposes thats what I am calling it. This is a variation of the above route and is less traveled, hence the "dirty" name. Use the same start as per "Rotten Varmit" but at the pin/bolt anchor head left instead of right following the crack around the corner. Find an old 1/4" bolt head up on face moves. Pro above this point is "creative". You may consider a mid point belay at the bolt because of rope drag. Rappel "Rotten Varmit" |
| "Smoothie" 5.10- 10m At the end of the quarry look up and right and find a smooth slab of rock. Scamble throught the brush until a trail is found follow the trail to the base of the slab. Scramble right and to the top af the wall to set up a top rope over an angleing seam to the top of the rock. This route is in danger of being blasted but will not be a big loss. |
| "Island Style" 5.10a 10m Same approach as above. Set up top rope in trees 15 to the right of "Smoothie" climb the slab right of "smoothie" routes tends to head to the left. |
| "Add Link to VGRQ Overview Pic" |
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| "Smoothie" |