From ancient stone heiau to 21st-Century high-rises, O'ahu is an island of endless contrasts. Geographically only the third largest of the inhabited Hawaiian Islands, it is nonetheless home to nearly three-quarters of the state's 1.2 million residents 370,000 of whom are concentrated in urban Honolulu, the ultra-modern, south-coast cityscape kama'aina(residents) refer to simply as "Town."

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But take a 45-minute drive to "Country" the famed surfing Mecca on the island's north shore and you'll find sleepy Hale'iwa town (pop. 2,225) existing much as it has since it was established by missionaries in 1832.

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