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| Isle Grande | |||||||||||||||||||
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2nd Jun (Sun): Rising early for an Acai breakfast I managed a small watercolour painting and some beach time before the ferry left. I was vaguely surprised not to find someone I knew on the boat.. however once I reached the mainland I ran into the Sao Paulo crew who again insisted that I visit them in Sao Paulo. Wandering the streets of the much abraded Andros dos Reis I was surprised at it's picturesque docks and had time for another small watercolour in the couple of hours before the bus arrived.. Apparently I was quite fortunate that the bus DID arrive because the South American Experience Guide didn't book my journey and if it wasn't for the 2 guys arriving (yes only 2 on the bus) I would have had to find more about the underbelly of Angra culture.. Once again I was the only passenger on the bus, except this time I had two guides: Edwardo and Cidade (a trainee) as well as the driver (whose name I never learned) - I did learn that his wife had had an operation and couldn't have sex for a month thus he was on edge, and that he liked eating ribs.. a lot. Brasilian traffic is interesting enough without a driver with baggage.. overtaking on the right hand side (on the road verge) regularly, people jogging, bicycles, road holes, 6 foot grasses half covering lanes.. I gave up when we overtook a horse and cart on the highway. Again, I didn't see any accidents and it seems to work. We finally arrived in the seaside historic town of Paraty and refreshed ourselves in a great Pousada (hotel) before heading out for some of the famed squid stuffed with trinity and cheese in the oldest restaurant in Paraty (ca. 1840). I managed to have a quick look around the town before dining with Edwardo and Cidade - it has a spectacular 'old town' section founded by the coffee trade, and apparently is the only town run by the Freemason Society in the world: well preserved and touristy. Italian icecream, good artwork and squid abounds. Lula (squid) is also the name of a politician vying for Presidential election in September - you can imagine the enjoyment the free Australian press would have with him. Additionally the streets are decked with green and gold streamers for the first world cup game scheduled for tomorrow morning. Every few minutes from 4 pm another skyrocket is let off from Paraty's surrounds. Brasil is pronounced BraZEAL and used as a greeting in the streets. Edwardo, Cidade & I chatted to locals and played guitar/danced in the main square to keep warm until the wee hours, when we all headed down to the beach for a chat. Interesting to know that Silverchair is enjoyed here. For some reason, Edwardo's girlfriend always rings him at about 8 pm just to say hi while he's on tour. Three other tourists including an excessively extroverted Macedonian introduced themselves to us and promptly sat down and asked whether anyone spoke English.. I certainly didn't want to be the only one so had to stick soley to Portuguese for the rest of the night.
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